• Hey Guest. Check out your NeoGAF Wrapped 2025 results here!

Lez talk mechanical keyboards

Looks perfect for what you wanted it for :) Forgot about the Minila, as while searching for compact boards having several non-standard size keys put it lower on the list, although the dedicated arrow keys are bluetooth are a big plus.

I have to wonder why no one is making compact boards that have a full function key row. It would do so much for many purposes, while not widening the board one bit. Leopold FC660C with function keys? Insta-buy.
 
I want to try branching out from my Topre keyboard into something with Cherry keyswitches, but finding an analogue for my Realforce 87U has been very difficult. All I want is a tenkeyless board with PBT keycaps, hardware-swappable Ctrl and Caps Lock keys and a set of Cherry MX brown switches.

The Leopold FC660 comes close, but the lack of a dedicated function key row or home/end/pgup/pgdown keys makes it a little too compact for my daily use. The Leopold FC200s I've seen (like on Elitekeyboards.com) have the right layout, but they look like ABS keykeps and lack a remappable Ctrl key. It seems like Ducky might have something with all those features, but they're pretty much sold out everywhere all the time.

It can be a little frustrating.
 
I have to wonder why no one is making compact boards that have a full function key row. It would do so much for many purposes, while not widening the board one bit. Leopold FC660C with function keys? Insta-buy.

If you don't mind widening the board by a single key column the Keycool 84, Noppoo Choc Mini, and the KBT Race all have dedicated Fn rows and arrow keys.

Still personally prefer the 60% look. The only thing preventing that size from being perfect is none of them have full programmability (apart from custom-made boards), so you can't move the keys/layers around to wherever it's best for you. I like the Poker II's optional position of CapsLock+WASD, but there are other arrow key cluster positions that could be achieved if the board had full programmability (although the Pn layer is pretty neat).
 
If you don't mind widening the board by a single key column the Keycool 84, Noppoo Choc Mini, and the KBT Race all have dedicated Fn rows and arrow keys.
All of those are out because they crush the right shift to a point I'm not comfortable with. If you look at the Leopold FC660C I referenced, it's half a column wider than all of those, which is just enough that nothing is sacrificed. Except the function keys, for some weird reason.

I also like the Apple laptop layout with half-depth arrow keys. Obviously that isn't going to be possible to replicate exactly with mechanical, but some enterprising company could try to make 3/4 depth keys that fit mech switches so the arrow keys only have to extend half a row downwards. Happy Hacking Lite2 and some Thinkpad keyboards do exactly that, sans mechanical switches.
 
I have a Filco BT numpad from a couple of years back. Never worked in the slightest with my Macs, and I seem to remember it also worked wrong with my Windows desktop. Ended up permanently in a desk drawer. I hope they've figured out this newfangled "Bluetooth" thing before making the MINILA Air.

It works better than this dumb Razer mouse I'll tell you that much. Haven't had any problems with it connected to my Laptop or my iPhone. Will definitely check in if it acts up. Thus far its all good.
 

Good to see Das is actually trying now instead of coasting purely on marketing like before. Style-wise they're jumping directly from ugly to pretty good. The media button / logo section is not terrible, but clearly the weakest point in the design and could stand some further improvement.

Then the price. Custom Cherry boards from WASD as well as Topre low end start at $150, so you have to offer something pretty special to be worth considering even at that price point. But Das isn't at that price point; they ask for $173 for a board with Browns. What they have is a USB 3.0 hub, an aluminum surface plate and some dinky media buttons. If the volume control knob was a really high quality, solid metal part with small tactile clicks, in my mind that would pretty much justify the price. But I'm sure they used cheap crap since they don't say anything about it. I think a reasonable price for the Das would be somewhere around $140-150, but you really have to want those specific features and like the looks to make it worth considering at all.

Still no tenkeyless or compact board from Das.
 
Man, Corsair is pretty slow with processing orders. Its been six days since I placed my order and they still haven't shipped it.
 
Just received my Logitech G710+

First, minutes in impressions: I need to get used to it. It feels nice to type on as I do so right now. A bit louder than I had hoped, but not altogether bad. Will have to see what it sounds like while gaming. There is a very nice and satisfying feel though.

Coming from the Logitech solar K70, there is a large size difference that I have to get used to. Mostly just in the form of how much desk space it eats up. I am using the palm rest, since its a good bit thicker than my previous keyboard, it's kind of needed.

4 levels and fully off for the key back-lighting is nice. Also separate options between all keys and the WASD+arrows, which, I don't think I'll ever separate them. Never an issue locating keys and I don't look at my keyboard anyways.

Mostly just need to get over the extra wire on my desk and the bit of added size. Otherwise, it all seems good.
 
I got my refurbished Corsair K90 today from them today. Nice of them to tell me they shipped it. Anyway, its my first mechanical keyboard. Its got Cherry MX Red Switches. They feel pretty nice, but they are fairly loud. The keyboard is in pretty good shape. There's some minor wear and tear, but its nothing serious.
 
Hi All,

Just this week just after 14 months, my Gigabyte Aivia Osmium Cherry Red Mechanical Keyboard died (backlight died and key presses don't work). It seems like it is out of warranty, so time to find a good replacement.

Anyone have any suggestions for a Cherry Red full Mechanical Keyboard (even missing number pad is fine) that has uses Cherry Reds, has a good warranty (prefer 2 years+), has good build quality, and I prefer is backlit? I can go either way on backlight. Full or TKL are fine. I just don't want to be burned by a keyboard after 14 months after spending 100+ dollars.
 
Corsair K70/95 (what I use) and the CM Storm Quickfire have a 2 year warranty. I'd also look at a Ducky Shines (arguably the best mechanical keyboard out there), but they only have a 1 year warranty.
 
Razer's so called new scientist designed switches are just kailh ones. Kailh are literal cheap knock offs/copies of Cherry mx switches.

Kailh+0001.jpg


The so called higher actuation point of .6mm is suspiciously close to tolerances for Kailh's red switch knock offs

KznDX.png


Pretty sure that Razer went with Kailh's switches to avoid the lack of supply of cherry mx's, plus of course the lower cost.
 
Are mechanical keyboards more high maintenance/prone to breaking than non-mechanical ones? I've had a CMStorm Quickfire Rapid for about 2 years, and the 'V' is crapping out on me. I've verified there's nothing under the key obstructing it, and in general every few months I remove all the keys and dust/clean. I've actually been wanting to get a keyboard with backlit keys anyways, but I'm considering staying away from mechanical keys given my Quickfire experience.
 
Are mechanical keyboards more high maintenance/prone to breaking than non-mechanical ones? I've had a CMStorm Quickfire Rapid for about 2 years, and the 'V' is crapping out on me. I've verified there's nothing under the key obstructing it, and in general every few months I remove all the keys and dust/clean. I've actually been wanting to get a keyboard with backlit keys anyways, but I'm considering staying away from mechanical keys given my Quickfire experience.

I have a Rosewill keyboard and after just 3 months it had similar issues

first with the backspace key (have to press the lower side for it to work) and now the same thing with the L key.
removed the cap trying to see what was the issue with the switch and pressing it, but after putting it back it stopped working.

Moved back to Logitech G510, at least all keys work, despite sounding mushy.
 
Are mechanical keyboards more high maintenance/prone to breaking than non-mechanical ones? I've had a CMStorm Quickfire Rapid for about 2 years, and the 'V' is crapping out on me. I've verified there's nothing under the key obstructing it, and in general every few months I remove all the keys and dust/clean. I've actually been wanting to get a keyboard with backlit keys anyways, but I'm considering staying away from mechanical keys given my Quickfire experience.
I haven't had any keyboards fail or even hiccup, ever. Not my Filco (Cherry switches), not my Topre, not my Happy Hacking Lite2 (rubber dome), nor any of several Apple laptop keyboards (scissor keys). Could be that Quickfires have looser quality control - they are cheap, after all - but my guess is they still last well on average, and you had atypically bad luck this time.

If you can hold a soldering iron, you might be able to put on a new switch pretty easily. Might not even need a new switch if the connections are the problem.
 
Finally got some new key caps for my ducky keyboard. Thank the lord i got them, I took my chances with a shady seller on new egg for the white keycaps (They seems to lie about shipment) and they eventually got to my house, though usps delivered to the wrong address and told me sorry, luckily the guy who received delivered it. Only down side since the key set weren't made for ducky styled keyboards I had to order the missing pieces.
LAkmPTz.png
 
Just got a Filco majestouch 2 ninja with browns. So so good and my fiance will appreciate the reduced noise level since I switched from blues.
 
Has anyone had hands on time with the Razer Tournament Edition Stealth keyboard with their new razer orange keys? Looks tempting, it's small without the number pad and 80$
 
So the other day I pretty much impulse bought a Razer Blackwidow as my first mechanical keyboard. Loving it so far actually, from the feel to even the sound - a pleasant surprise to say the least. I'm just wondering if I made a decent purchase or if I would be better off returning this and buying one from a different manufacturer. Any thoughts?
 
So the other day I pretty much impulse bought a Razer Blackwidow as my first mechanical keyboard. Loving it so far actually, from the feel to even the sound - a pleasant surprise to say the least. I'm just wondering if I made a decent purchase or if I would be better off returning this and buying one from a different manufacturer. Any thoughts?
Never buy razer keyboards. Pretty much don't buy anything razer except mouses
 
My steelseries 7g2 is still going strong after months of strong use. This might sound silly but this mechanical keyboard has saved gaming for me.
 
Never buy razer keyboards. Pretty much don't buy anything razer except mouses

Definitely don't buy Razer keyboards, but IMO, don't buy the mice either. In my experience they wear out fast or are broken to begin with, and now with their drivers having mandatory cloud/online/DRM bullshit, I'm simply done with the company. I'm still on a Razer mouse but my next one won't be from them. The only Razer products I'd consider at this point are the stuff with no substitute, mainly the Hydra.
 
Definitely don't buy Razer keyboards, but IMO, don't buy the mice either. In my experience they wear out fast or are broken to begin with, and now with their drivers having mandatory cloud/online/DRM bullshit, I'm simply done with the company. I'm still on a Razer mouse but my next one won't be from them. The only Razer products I'd consider at this point are the stuff with no substitute, mainly the Hydra.
Deathadder is one of the best in the market, can't speak about the others.
Logitech is better though, imo
 
So does anyone have any specific recommendations for a Blackwidow replacement? I haven't had any hands on time with any of the types of switches, and I'm not sure what kind are in the Blackwidow (or which are most similar). I would think double-tapping would be an important feature, and if possible I would like the keys to be a little quieter for the sake of the people around me who have to listen to it.
 
So does anyone have any specific recommendations for a Blackwidow replacement? I haven't had any hands on time with any of the types of switches, and I'm not sure what kind are in the Blackwidow (or which are most similar). I would think double-tapping would be an important feature, and if possible I would like the keys to be a little quieter for the sake of the people around me who have to listen to it.
Hard to give a good recommendation without knowing your preferences for other features, form factor, look, and price range.
My generic answer one page back:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=458496&p=102966398
 
Razer's so called new scientist designed switches are just kailh ones. Kailh are literal cheap knock offs/copies of Cherry mx switches.

Kailh+0001.jpg


The so called higher actuation point of .6mm is suspiciously close to tolerances for Kailh's red switch knock offs

KznDX.png


Pretty sure that Razer went with Kailh's switches to avoid the lack of supply of cherry mx's, plus of course the lower cost.
Hmmm.. that's kind of sad really. I was considering giving their new kbs a try too.

I've owned a couple of Razer keyboards in the past, I've only had one problem with them out of the box and their support was fantastic (just mailed me a new keyboard straight away). I'm curious what folks don't like about them, since the consensus here seems to be pretty negative.
 
Most of my coworkers (programmers) who have been here a while have their own personal mechanical keyboards. I'm still fairly new so I haven't purchased one. I'm sure I'll eventually discover the benefit but for now I'm sticking to what the company has provided me.
 
Oh man, if I ever need to replace my CM Storm, I'd get that new DAS.

And Razer is trash across all their products

Razer's not universally bad, just inconsistent. My tenkeyless with MX Browns from them has held up pretty well apart from the mini-USB connection being kind of touchy.
 
I'm about to click the buy button for a WASD keyboard...
Am i crazy or am i doing it right?
That's what I wound up doing. I picked up a couple of tenkeyless WASDv2 keyboards and sets of white-on-black Vortex double-shot PBT keycaps and it's worked out perfectly. The boards are good quality and I like how customizable they are.
 
Hey GAF. I have to type lots of text, like hundreds of pages, and I write on a daily basis.

I love mechanical keyboards, I would like to get one, but I have two problems :

- it has to be a mac keyboard
- it has to be azerty

I saw this baby http://www.daskeyboard.com/model-s-professional-for-mac/ but it's qwerty...
Do you actually care about having Mac-specific keycaps, and if so, why? There's no physical difference in "Mac" and "non-Mac" layouts, only the alt/cmd keys may be reversed, and that takes ten seconds to fix from OS X keyboard preferences.
Filco and Ducky are high quality and have AZERTY models. On the slightly cheaper end of things, Coolermaster does too.
 
Top Bottom