6/3/2007: Relix compiled a tutorial for GAF to read that includes pictures and my advice given in this thread. Excellent read if you want to know about to do the Lawdawg X-Clamp fix.
6/12/2007: Version 2 link: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=QH9Q5OMR
Manufactured Date: 11-23-2005
Xbox 360 Premium Console
Samsung Drive
I figured that a few of you out there in GAF have been doing some real fixes to your X360 aside from the towel method after reading some threads about the 3ROL.
I just wanted to share my experience here what I did with mine. Hopefully, the other people who have done fixes will share theirs, too! I did post this in a small thread, but posted it in a misleading thread title. I figured it would be best if GAF could have one thread to see that these fixes actually work.
Well I decided to perform operation on a broken Xbox 360 purchased from Ebay. I've been holding off writing this because I wanted to see how long this fixed X360 will last. So far, it's been holding up for 3 days without turning off. No freezes, and I've been playing Gears and Crackdown on it.
It actually worked! :lol But, that's because the Xbox 360 had been opened before.
When I opened it, someone performed the rubber eraser mod on the chips. Supposedly and strangely, by insulating the memory chips located below the graphics card chip, this shoddy fix temporary makes X360s work though it does spew out more outair.
So, yeah, random picture of the metal casing. The two X indentations are where the nasty x-clamps located. Supposedly, these x-clamps are causing the flexing problem, bending the board and causing some solder joints for the chips to disconnect at high temperatures.
First, I cleaned out the horrible heat paste job done at the X360 factories.
Redone paste job:
Removing those nasty x-clamps were a bitch. : ( All that tension, no wonder the 3 red lights problem is common.
So I went out to my local Ace Hardware store (closest hardware store in Evanston, at least for a Northwestern University student
) and followed Lawdawg's method @ Xbox-Scene for screws.
If you don't know what these #s mean, ask a guy at the hardware store to help you.
8 M5 -0.8 x 10 Machine Screws
16 #10 Flat Washers - Nylon Type
16 5mm Flat Washers - Metal
In the end, I only used 8 metal washers because they pushed up too far.
The result:
You can see the memory chips in this picture. If you want to perform the rubber eraser mod, simply cut out pieces of high polymer eraser slices and paste them over these chips. Somehow, by insulating this area, it works (possibly because of the flexing/solder theory above.)
Also in this picture, that's where the X-Clamps were supposed to be. By directly mounting the heatsinks onto the board, we can prevent the board from flexing under heat and pressure from the x-clamps.
After reseating the heatsinks, I had to tighten down the bolts in order for the 3 red lights to appear. I removed the fans this part (as it said in the guide) though I had trouble getting the 3 red lights appear when the heatsinks were completely off. After some trial and error for about 2 hours, I finally just let the heatsinks overheat themselves and then loosen the screws. After cooling down, I tightened them again, and guess what?
Sorry for the blurry pictures. Had to turn off flash in order to let you guys see the green lights.
So yeah, this $130 Xbox 360 has been running for three days straight. So far so good. Will update if needed.
6/12/2007: Version 2 link: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=QH9Q5OMR
Manufactured Date: 11-23-2005
Xbox 360 Premium Console
Samsung Drive
I figured that a few of you out there in GAF have been doing some real fixes to your X360 aside from the towel method after reading some threads about the 3ROL.
I just wanted to share my experience here what I did with mine. Hopefully, the other people who have done fixes will share theirs, too! I did post this in a small thread, but posted it in a misleading thread title. I figured it would be best if GAF could have one thread to see that these fixes actually work.
Well I decided to perform operation on a broken Xbox 360 purchased from Ebay. I've been holding off writing this because I wanted to see how long this fixed X360 will last. So far, it's been holding up for 3 days without turning off. No freezes, and I've been playing Gears and Crackdown on it.
DyersEve said:
It actually worked! :lol But, that's because the Xbox 360 had been opened before.
When I opened it, someone performed the rubber eraser mod on the chips. Supposedly and strangely, by insulating the memory chips located below the graphics card chip, this shoddy fix temporary makes X360s work though it does spew out more outair.
So, yeah, random picture of the metal casing. The two X indentations are where the nasty x-clamps located. Supposedly, these x-clamps are causing the flexing problem, bending the board and causing some solder joints for the chips to disconnect at high temperatures.
First, I cleaned out the horrible heat paste job done at the X360 factories.
Redone paste job:
Removing those nasty x-clamps were a bitch. : ( All that tension, no wonder the 3 red lights problem is common.
So I went out to my local Ace Hardware store (closest hardware store in Evanston, at least for a Northwestern University student
) and followed Lawdawg's method @ Xbox-Scene for screws. If you don't know what these #s mean, ask a guy at the hardware store to help you.
8 M5 -0.8 x 10 Machine Screws
16 #10 Flat Washers - Nylon Type
16 5mm Flat Washers - Metal
In the end, I only used 8 metal washers because they pushed up too far.
The result:
You can see the memory chips in this picture. If you want to perform the rubber eraser mod, simply cut out pieces of high polymer eraser slices and paste them over these chips. Somehow, by insulating this area, it works (possibly because of the flexing/solder theory above.)
Also in this picture, that's where the X-Clamps were supposed to be. By directly mounting the heatsinks onto the board, we can prevent the board from flexing under heat and pressure from the x-clamps.
After reseating the heatsinks, I had to tighten down the bolts in order for the 3 red lights to appear. I removed the fans this part (as it said in the guide) though I had trouble getting the 3 red lights appear when the heatsinks were completely off. After some trial and error for about 2 hours, I finally just let the heatsinks overheat themselves and then loosen the screws. After cooling down, I tightened them again, and guess what?
Sorry for the blurry pictures. Had to turn off flash in order to let you guys see the green lights.
So yeah, this $130 Xbox 360 has been running for three days straight. So far so good. Will update if needed.
