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PSVR will pass through 4K but not HDR to your 4KTV

DjRalford

Member
That swell switch was creating all storts of garbage artifacts on my screen. Plugged the Pro directly into my TV with the cable that came with it and it went away. Looks like I'll just be doing HDMI switching :(

I didn't get artifacts, but I did get the screen blinking black every 30 seconds or so.

I'm sticking with a coupler, it's only 30 seconds to swap and works perfectly.
 

Caayn

Member
What are the chances of Sony releasing an updated version of the break-out box? Currently I've got two HDMI cables running to my PS4 Pro (one for the TV and the other for the PSVR) which I swap out depending on my usage.

My PS4 Pro is positioned in such a way that I can easily swap these cables but even then it's annoying that I can just use a single cable. Really bummed by this oversight.
 

MrGerbils

Member
God it's so annoying having to deal with this.

Honestly I'm pretty lazy when it comes to entertainment so this extra step involved is gonna mean I'm gonna play VR games way less often.
 

Ocaso

Member
For whatever reason the coupler solution isnt working with my PS4 Pro though it did with the PS4.

This really sucks.
 

EmiPrime

Member
I can't get it to work with the Sewell switch either. I'm really rather pissed off with this.

A huge mess on Sony's part. How could they bugger this up that badly?

My wiring:

PS4 > HDMI in on the switch

1 OUT > TV
2 OUT > PSVR's PS4 in port

PSVR OUT > TV
 
Pretty annoying oversight on Sony's part, especially when they came out so close together, I could understand it if it came out a year apart but PSVR was only last month, surely they must have thought that some people will get both Pro and PSVR.
 
For everyone getting artifacts or sync issues, read my posts below. I am encountering zero issues on the PS4 Pro. I just got done with a 30-minute session of Eagle Flight and can confirm perfect interoperability. And Eagle Flight is free of all of its previous jaggies! :D

For those hot-swapping with the coupler, read my second quoted post below. Though this is also just as important for the HDMI switch, as well.

Update on this! I received my MonoPrice cables in the mail today (see above). Here's my findings (all 3ft cables):


  • Certified Premium cables (CPC) to the switch, then CPC to the PS VR Processing unit yielded a perfect signal.
  • CPC to the switch, then Amazon Basics High Speed Cable (ABHSC) to the PS VR Processing unit yielded a perfect signal.
  • 24 AWG HDMI Cable to the switch, then CPC to the PS VR Processing unit yielded a perfect signal.
  • 24 AWG HDMI Cable to the switch, then Amazon Basics High Speed Cable[/URL] (ABHSC) to the PS VR Processing unit yielded a perfect signal.
The signal from the PlayStation 4* to the switch must be impeccable. The surefire way to accomplish this is with a Certified Premium Cable, which are rated and tested for 18 Gbps transmission. And since the 24 AWG cable offers such low impedance, it, too, is able to hit that same signal speed.

Conclusion? Use Certified Premium Cables, if introducing an HDMI switch. It's not a bad idea to adopt these cables, as a general, since the PS4 Pro is HDMI 2.0a and assuredly will utilize the full bandwidth of the pipeline. And that's not even mentioning that future HDMI 2.0a devices we'll start use as they become more commonplace.

UPDATE
The HDR and Deep Color output settings stayed set to Automatic from powering on the PS4 from an off state, regardless of whether or now I had the switch going to the UHDTV or the Processing Unit. I also fully tested an HDR game, Deus Ex, and a PS VR game, PlayRoom. The settings remained the same and I did get HDR in Deus Ex in two attempts.

I could not, however, get a PS VR image out of the PS4 when switching HDMI inputs from PS4 being in rest mode.

Long story short, if using an HDMI switch, fully power off the PS4 before switching outputs. Again, a pain in the ass, but still better than the alternative.

The coupler method didn't work for me either. I get black outs for snow flakes from the Pro whereas the original PS4 was fine (lower bandwidth requirements).

I ordered this which is coming today hoping to bypass the coupler issue.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01326XFD2/?tag=neogaf0e-20

works for me , 4K + HDR

I can't get it to work with the Sewell switch either. I'm really rather pissed off with this.

A huge mess on Sony's part. How could they bugger this up that badly?

My wiring:

PS4 > HDMI in on the switch

1 OUT > TV
2 OUT > PSVR's PS4 in port

PSVR OUT > TV

For whatever reason the coupler solution isnt working with my PS4 Pro though it did with the PS4.

This really sucks.

I didn't get artifacts, but I did get the screen blinking black every 30 seconds or so.

I'm sticking with a coupler, it's only 30 seconds to swap and works perfectly.

That swell switch was creating all storts of garbage artifacts on my screen. Plugged the Pro directly into my TV with the cable that came with it and it went away. Looks like I'll just be doing HDMI switching :(
 

Stike

Member
For everyone getting artifacts or sync issues, read my posts below. I am encountering zero issues on the PS4 Pro. I just got done with a 30-minute session of Eagle Flight and can confirm perfect interoperability. And Eagle Flight is free of all of its previous jaggies! :D

For those hot-swapping with the coupler, read my second quoted post below. Though this is also just as important for the HDMI switch, as well.

Yes, cables and connections are a pain in the ass. After using the Pro and my splitter solution, I ran into serious image and audio problems (snow flakes on the left border of the image, audio drops out often)

So I am using the coupler method for now. Maybe I can get the splitter to work, but for now this is my solution. Need to check the power off method first though. Either the splitter is not properly capable, or I really need to fully power off, which I didn't try so far.
 

D23

Member
Officially done up with all the options here. I'll just switch the HDMI manually. Fuck so stupid for Sony for overlooking this...
 
In the AVR thread someone mentioned they were using the second HDMI out on the receiver to go to PSVR. So their setup was PS4 goes straight into an HDMI input on their receiver, output 1 goes to the TV whilst output 2 goes to the PSVR breakout box. However they weren't using HDR yet.

Anyways usually in situations like this since output 2 is plugged into a device which doesn't support HDR wouldn't that limit output 1 to the same thing? So HDR wouldn't work unless of course the breakout box was powered off?

Edit: I could just plug the breakout box into something like this: http://reductionrevolution.com.au/products/ecoswitch-standby-power-switch and turn it off when not in use. :p
 
In the AVR thread someone mentioned they were using the second HDMI out on the receiver to go to PSVR. So their setup was PS4 goes straight into an HDMI input on their receiver, output 1 goes to the TV whilst output 2 goes to the PSVR breakout box. However they weren't using HDR yet.

Anyways usually in situations like this since output 2 is plugged into a device which doesn't support HDR wouldn't that limit output 1 to the same thing? So HDR wouldn't work unless of course the breakout box was powered off?

Edit: I could just plug the breakout box into something like this: http://reductionrevolution.com.au/products/ecoswitch-standby-power-switch and turn it off when not in use. :p

Ohhhhhhhh, I had not considered using my second HDMI output on my reciever to go to the processor box. I'm going to have to experiment with that.
 
In the AVR thread someone mentioned they were using the second HDMI out on the receiver to go to PSVR. So their setup was PS4 goes straight into an HDMI input on their receiver, output 1 goes to the TV whilst output 2 goes to the PSVR breakout box. However they weren't using HDR yet.
The other HDMI outputs on an AVR are likely to act the same as a splitter. Well, because they pretty much are splitters. Without testing, I'd venture a guess that the HDMI chain is going to downgrade to the lowest common denominator.

Ohhhhhhhh, I had not considered using my second HDMI output on my reciever to go to the processor box. I'm going to have to experiment with that.
Please do let us know! The more information we have, the better everyone is.
 

ElNino

Member
Ohhhhhhhh, I had not considered using my second HDMI output on my reciever to go to the processor box. I'm going to have to experiment with that.
That might work for the PSVR headset, but I think you would lose the social screen on the TV? The only way I'd think that could work is if you sent the PSVR processor box back to the AVR as well (a different input), but you would need to be able to use both inputs (PS4 and PSVR) at the same time.
 
That might work for the PSVR headset, but I think you would lose the social screen on the TV? The only way I'd think that could work is if you sent the PSVR processor box back to the AVR as well (a different input), but you would need to be able to use both inputs (PS4 and PSVR) at the same time.

I think you're right. I didn't think this through. Hmm. I'll give it a shot to rule it out, but I'm pretty sure you're right. Taking up another input is just something I don't want to do at the moment.

On a different note, I finally rewired my setup to incorporate PSVR cleanly, and man I'm annoyed it doesn't work as expected so I'm going to have to rethink and rewire it again. My two problems are

1) For some reason, the Processor Unit isn't turning on suddenly when the PS4 is turned on. It seemed to work just fine when I first set it up in this new wiring, but now it just stays off. That's super annoying.

2) My theory of just putting all the game consoles funneled into the Processor Unit was flawed because whenever I play any other game system, the Processor Unit won't be on and there won't be a signal to the TV.

I'm really starting to hate the Processor Unit. It's causing so many problems to trying to integrate PSVR into my complicated setup.
 
1) For some reason, the Processor Unit isn't turning on suddenly when the PS4 is turned on. It seemed to work just fine when I first set it up in this new wiring, but now it just stays off. That's super annoying.[/QUOTE}
Isn't that expected behavior? The Processing Unit should turn on when the PS VR turns on.

2) My theory of just putting all the game consoles funneled into the Processor Unit was flawed because whenever I play any other game system, the Processor Unit won't be on and there won't be a signal to the TV.

I'm really starting to hate the Processor Unit. It's causing so many problems to trying to integrate PSVR into my complicated setup.
So, am I wrong on the above? I don't have the thing in front of me and I forget.
 
Isn't that expected behavior? The Processing Unit should turn on when the PS VR turns on.
Ever since I got the Pro my processing box turns on when my PS4 does. However I don't remember it doing that on my original PS4...
Maybe it's because I'm using the rear USB port?

As for what I mentioned above, my proposed setup is output 2 to PSVR then PSVR directly back to the TV. That way I'd keep the social functions. Only thing missing would be surround sound through my 5.1 system when playing VR.
 
Isn't that expected behavior? The Processing Unit should turn on when the PS VR turns on.

No, it turns on when the PS4 turns on because if the Processor Unit doesn't turn on, then no video signal will pass through to the TV. So you'd never be able to play standard PS4 games if the Processor Unit stayed off.

So, am I wrong on the above? I don't have the thing in front of me and I forget.

Ya, I think you might be to a certain degree. It'll work, but you'll lose the social screen display on the TV. I haven't tested it yet since I'm still at work, but the theory is sound. How else is the PS4 supposed to know what goes to the headset and what goes to the TV without the Processor Unit?

Ever since I got the Pro my processing box turns on when my PS4 does. However I don't remember it doing that on my original PS4...
Maybe it's because I'm using the rear USB port?

My standard PS4 would turn it on when the system booted up. My Pro would do that too. It even worked briefly after I rewired it, but now it seems to have stopped. I haven't taken the time to properly debug it though.

My PS4 was front USB to the processor unit. My initial Pro setup was rear USB to the processor unit. My new setup is rear USB to a USB hub, and the processor unit is connected to the hub. I'm going to see if I power the hub if that will help, but I always thought powering the hub was just meant for charging. It's just weird that it worked in initial testing and for the first day, then suddenly stopped.
 
Ever since I got the Pro my processing box turns on when my PS4 does. However I don't remember it doing that on my original PS4...
Maybe it's because I'm using the rear USB port?

As for what I mentioned above, my proposed setup is output 2 to PSVR then PSVR directly back to the TV. That way I'd keep the social functions. Only thing missing would be surround sound through my 5.1 system when playing VR.

No, it turns on when the PS4 turns on because if the Processor Unit doesn't turn on, then no video signal will pass through to the TV. So you'd never be able to play standard PS4 games if the Processor Unit stayed off.



Ya, I think you might be to a certain degree. It'll work, but you'll lose the social screen display on the TV. I haven't tested it yet since I'm still at work, but the theory is sound. How else is the PS4 supposed to know what goes to the headset and what goes to the TV without the Processor Unit?

My standard PS4 would turn it on when the system booted up. My Pro would do that too. It even worked briefly after I rewired it, but now it seems to have stopped. I haven't taken the time to properly debug it though.

My PS4 was front USB to the processor unit. My initial Pro setup was rear USB to the processor unit. My new setup is rear USB to a USB hub, and the processor unit is connected to the hub. I'm going to see if I power the hub if that will help, but I always thought powering the hub was just meant for charging. It's just weird that it worked in initial testing and for the first day, then suddenly stopped.
Thanks for the replies. First thing I did when I powered up my PS4 Pro today was scope out what the Processing Unit.

The PU (such a fitting acronym) glows red in standby. Then it turns white when the PS4/Pro turns on.

Marty Chinn, so yours stays red throughout? I do wonder if the hub is the issue. I can't imagine why it would be, but that's the only thing that changed in your setup between the time it was working and not. Am I correct in understanding that?
 
I wasn't the initial personal in the AVR thread that thought of this but I did say I would try using an AVR output to the PSVR processor unit.

I tried it and here's what happens. This is also dependent on your AVR and how it treats Zone 2 and Zone 3. Either way you lose the social screen, and if you are using a Pro it is broken and doesn't work (at least in my case). trying to figure out if it is the output that is causing it or the HDCP handshake, or insufficient bandwidth in in supplied HDMI cables from the Pro and VSVR unit vs the certified cables I'm running ffor everything else. (Still waiting for my Silverback HDMI cables to arrive)

So DJ Lushious is correct in saying it acts as a splitter. (in my case anyways) because I do not have a true Zone 2. Mine runs in parallel. Meaning it is mirrored. So my Zone 2 follows main.

It does pick up the lowest first, which is why it worked for the PS4 because it only output 1080p. So it was fine because both outputs were outputting the same signal. When it it's on the Pro Zone 2 is I believe trying to do a handshake to the processor and it is trying to change what is being output. Which for me breaks completely and I cannot see PS4 on the main input.

I'm going to try again before I go the switch route once the rest of my cables come in, hopefully that's the cause. If not going to go the switch route.
 
Thanks for the replies. First thing I did when I powered up my PS4 Pro today was scope out what the Processing Unit.

The PU (such a fitting acronym) glows red in standby. Then it turns white when the PS4/Pro turns on.

Marty Chinn, so yours stays red throughout? I do wonder if the hub is the issue. I can't imagine why it would be, but that's the only thing that changed in your setup between the time it was working and not. Am I correct in understanding that?

Hiya DJ, I posted this in the other thread but thought for better visability I'd pop it in here as well.

Just reading your post from the link in your post here.

So, by my calculation you have bought 2 CPC HDMI wires and 2 Amazon Basic HDMI wires and the switch?

Sorry to be a pain, I just dont want to be wasting money on wires that might not work.


This is the switch I have bought, luckily they ship to the UK via Amazon US so thats not a problem, just a small wait.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00629NHW6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, I believe I have the same Sewell switch that your using (can you confirm?) now I just need the correct HDMI leads.
I have the two HDMI leads from Sony, one from the PSVR and one from the Pro so is it safe to assume these will work or do I need 4 new HDMI wires all together?

Will these HDMI cables be up to the job?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=sr_1_22?s=electronics-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1479319610&sr=1-22&keywords=HDMI&th=1

Or screw it, I might just go all out and order the ones you linked earlier, its costly from the USA but I just want this to work straight off with no mucking around.

These ones:

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024021&p_id=15427&seq=1&format=2


::Edit::

Right, taking into account everything I've posted above, I've gone and cancelled the Amazon US order for the switch and bought the following from Amazon UK:

Switch:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00629NHW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI Cables X 3
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8SIJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


If it all works, it works. If it doesnt, then, back to the drawing board.

But from my understanding of everything in this thread, the switch is fine and the cables I've bought are rated for 18Gbs, so I shouldnt have any problem here...
 
Hiya DJ, I posted this in the other thread but thought for better visability I'd pop it in here as well.
Sometimes I re-read something I've posted that's been quoted and I wonder what in the hell I was thinking/trying to write. I ought to proofread better :p


In order of questions asked:

1) I find the AmazonBasics HDMI cables aren't up to snuff for this solution. I could not get any of these cables to work properly when introducing the switch; they always introduced sparklies. So, keep those for other devices.

Anything that follows the HDMI Founder's program should work without issue. "Trust the Cable with the Label." Ha!

I've also tested 24AWG HDMI cables without issue, in case those are easier to find for you across the pond. The lower gauge wire seems to be able to handle the high bandwidth and switch, as well.

2) Yep, that is the exact same switch I use and I can confirm it works without issue. When following my HDMI advice above. :-|
 

Flandy

Member
Sometimes I re-read something I've posted that's been quoted and I wonder what in the hell I was thinking/trying to write. I ought to proofread better :p



In order of questions asked:

1) I find the AmazonBasics HDMI cables aren't up to snuff for this solution. I could not get any of these cables to work properly when introducing the switch; they always introduced sparklies. So, keep those for other devices.

Anything that follows the HDMI Founder's program should work without issue. "Trust the Cable with the Label." Ha!

I've also tested 24AWG HDMI cables without issue, in case those are easier to find for you across the pond. The lower gauge wire seems to be able to handle the high bandwidth and switch, as well.

2) Yep, that is the exact same switch I use and I can confirm it works without issue. When following my HDMI advice above. :-|
I JUST ORDERED BASICS @__@
 
So i read a few pages back and i'm confused. Which switch should i buy (if any) ?
Any switch that does 1x2 or more should work. The unpowered ones that have been linked throughout this thread need a really solid signal, hence the Certified Premium/AWG talk. I don't know if anyone has tested a powered switch with results.
 

SOLDIER

Member
I also got snowflakes using the coupler.

If I have to go and replace the PS4 Pro's HDMI cable on top of this, then screw it, I'll just return the coupler and switch manually. Not like I use the VR every day.
 

Shadoken

Member
Does PSVR Breakout box allow 4K RGB?

Right now when my PS4 Pro is connected directly to the TV I am getting 4K RGB and HDR and Deep Color output. ( I think this switches to YUV whenever a HDR game is being played )

However when i connect my PS4 PRo via PSVR it gets set to 4KYUV with RGB option disabled. This is all via HDCP 1.4 ,since i have that black screen issue otherwise.


From what I have read PSVR split should allow 4K RGB Full WITHOUT HDR Correct?
 

Caayn

Member
Does PSVR Breakout box allow 4K RGB?

Right now when my PS4 Pro is connected directly to the TV I am getting 4K RGB and HDR and Deep Color output. ( I think this switches to YUV whenever a HDR game is being played )

However when i connect my PS4 PRo via PSVR it gets set to 4KYUV with RGB option disabled. This is all via HDCP 1.4 ,since i have that black screen issue otherwise.


From what I have read PSVR split should allow 4K RGB Full WITHOUT HDR Correct?
HDMI 1.4 doesn't have the bandwidth required for 2016p with RGB at 60hz. The max it'll do at 60hz is YUV 4:2:0.
 

Shadoken

Member
HDMI 1.4 doesn't have the bandwidth required for 2016p with RGB at 60hz. The max it'll do at 60hz is YUV 4:2:0.

Then how come when I Connect my PS4 Pro directly to the TV I am able to get 4k RGB Full?

PS VR box should only affect HDR correct?
 

Caayn

Member
Then how come when I Connect my PS4 Pro directly to the TV I am able to get 4k RGB Full?

PS VR box should only affect HDR correct?
No. The PSVR break-out box is equipped with a HDMI 1.4 port. HDMI 1.4 max out at 2160p YUV 4:2:0 when using a 60hz signal.

HDMI 2.0 is what the PS4 Pro is equipped with. And the PSVR break-out box should have had.

RGB and YUV are different colour spaces. Unlike RGB, YUV can be compressed with chroma subsampling such as 4:2:0 to reduce bandwidth requirements. Hence why HDMI 1.4 can transmit a 2160p 60hz signal as long as 4:2:0 chroma subsampling is applied to reduce the needed bandwidth.
 

EmiPrime

Member
I want to go down to Sony's London headquarters and shove dog poo through their letterbox for this.

I'm still really upset.
 

Stike

Member
So I figured my splitter solution isn't working as intended due to Amazon Basics cables.

I think they crap out even if there is only an extension connected or anything else. So, I will test now the remaining configurations with the cables I have (there may be a few good ones in the batch) and then will buy proper cables...

Ugh... I hate this uncertainty -.-
 

Phreaker

Member
Officially done up with all the options here. I'll just switch the HDMI manually. Fuck so stupid for Sony for overlooking this...

I still can't even believe it, each time I've had to disconnect the PSVR from my Pro I get angry. SO stupid.
 
So I figured my splitter solution isn't working as intended due to Amazon Basics cables.

I think they crap out even if there is only an extension connected or anything else. So, I will test now the remaining configurations with the cables I have (there may be a few good ones in the batch) and then will buy proper cables...

Ugh... I hate this uncertainty -.-
Yeah, AmazonBasics cables won't cut it. This was brought about a few weeks ago. What is it you're uncertain about? The solution's been nailed down for about a week now.

An OT or an OP needs to happen to reel in all this information.
 

Stike

Member
I received a questionnaire from Sony marketing about my new Playstation products/satisfaction survey.

I made it clear that I am not happy about the dismissal of HDR in the processing unit and hope for some replacement program or such.

I hope this helps bring the issue up and that Sony will do something about this fuckup.
 

Ashler

Member
For everyone getting artifacts or sync issues, read my posts below. I am encountering zero issues on the PS4 Pro. I just got done with a 30-minute session of Eagle Flight and can confirm perfect interoperability. And Eagle Flight is free of all of its previous jaggies! :D

Hi!

Greatly appreciate your hard work going into this thread. I couldn't find an exact fit for the switcher on amazon.co.uk. Does this look the same one to you? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LFX1UDM/

Thanks.
 
Hi!

Greatly appreciate your hard work going into this thread. I couldn't find an exact fit for the switcher on amazon.co.uk. Does this look the same one to you? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LFX1UDM/

Thanks.

I confirmed with DJ earlier via PM that this one will work:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00629NHW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Even though it doesnt state it does all the 4K stuff, it will still work, but unfortunately its out of stock at the moment.

The one you linked looks to be the exact same just with a different brand. It was also linked earlier in the thread.
The only downside to the one you linked is its being sent from the USA, so theres a bit of a wait.
 

Ashler

Member
I confirmed with DJ earlier via PM that this one will work:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00629NHW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Even though it doesnt state it does all the 4K stuff, it will still work, but unfortunately its out of stock at the moment.

The one you linked looks to be the exact same just with a different brand. It was also linked earlier in the thread.
The only downside to the one you linked is its being sent from the USA, so theres a bit of a wait.

Yeah, I saw that but it's out of stock so I was trying to get an alternative.
 
When all of us started testing solutions, and I had issues with the Siewell switch (was the cables), I called Siewell. Which was more-or-less a shot in the dark. Either way, the gentleman I spoke with was quite knowledgeable. So, kudos there. Anyway, he informed me the Siewell switch is a pin-to-pin switch; no different than a coupler/extender, really.

I can't imagine any of these other non-powered HDMI switches would operate any differently. So far, though, a handful of GAFfers are having success with the Siewell switch.
Anyone tried this Blackbird splitter from Monoprice?

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=10249

Says it does 4K, but doesn't say whether it's 1.4 or 2.0 HDMI

And this one actually says it does 4K 60 YUV 420

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15258
A splitter will never work, since the Processing Unit is an HDMI 1.4 device. HDMI specs has the whole chain switch to the lowest common denominator spec device.
 
When all of us started testing solutions, and I had issues with the Siewell switch (was the cables), I called Siewell. Which was more-or-less and shot in the dark. Either way, the gentleman I spoke with was quite knowledgeable. So, kudos there. Anyway, he informed me the Siewell switch is a pin-to-pin switch; no different than a coupler/extender, really.

I can't imagine any of these other non-powered HDMI switches would operate any differently. So far, though, a handful of GAFfers are having success with the Siewell switch.

A splitter will never work, since the Processing Unit is an HDMI 1.4 device. HDMI specs has the whole chain switch to the lowest common denominator spec device.

Ahhhh, good to know. Thanks!
 
Looking at Amazon, all the bi-directional 2x1 HDMI passive switches look to be clones of only 2 designs: the one DJ has, and this one that I ordered.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPU84A6/?tag=neogaf0e-20

ijFf5Qk.jpg


I just got this one because it was only $9.99, the cheapest at the time that was still fulfilled by Amazon. It's out-of-stock from my seller, now, though.

I don't know if the slider switch should be more or less reliable than the button one. I've read poor reviews for both saying how they worked fine at the beginning before going to shit over time. I'm not expecting high-quality out of these cheapo cookie-cutter devices. I just hope I get one of the good ones in the quality lottery.

As DJ said, these are simple pin-to-pin connections. So as long as the connections are clean and solid, they should support any HDMI spec, no matter what the description says.

I'll chime-in when I finally get everything set-up and hopefully working. I'll be using Monoprice certified premium cables for all 3 ports.
 

Gitaroo

Member
Looking at Amazon, all the bi-directional 2x1 HDMI passive switches look to be clones of only 2 designs: the one DJ has, and this one that I ordered.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPU84A6/?tag=neogaf0e-20

ijFf5Qk.jpg


I just got this one because it was only $9.99, the cheapest at the time that was still fulfilled by Amazon. It's out-of-stock from my seller, now, though.

I don't know if the slider switch should be more or less reliable than the button one. I've read poor reviews for both saying how they worked fine at the beginning before going to shit over time. I'm not expecting high-quality out of these cheapo cookie-cutter devices. I just hope I get one of the good ones in the quality lottery.

As DJ said, these are simple pin-to-pin connections. So as long as the connections are clean and solid, they should support any HDMI spec, no matter what the description says.

I'll chime-in when I finally get everything set-up and hopefully working. I'll be using Monoprice certified premium cables for all 3 ports.

Yeah, sony could have added something simple like that to the PU and save us all the trouble.
 
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