Wag
Member
Is the 65" version still due out this Fall?
More late fall/early winter.
I'm hoping the 65" TVs have better uniformity than the 55"s. In any event they will help drive the price of the competition down.
Is the 65" version still due out this Fall?
I'll have to play around with it some more when I get home. So local dimming will definitely cause this? I love the TV so far but the light bleed is definitely an issue for me right now. It took me out of the experience a bit while playing Hellblade.
Bummer, I was hoping it would be out before the new Xbox.More late fall/early winter.
I'm hoping the 65" TVs have better uniformity than the 55"s. In any event they will help drive the price of the competition down.
Not having local dimming on can cause the light bleed or clouding that you may be seeing. Wasn't really noticeable in brighter scenes but was obvious in dark scenes.
This also may be a problem with the game itself. The game is effects-heavy, and some times those effects don't mask all the way to the edge of the screen. I'll get one row of full-bright pixels blasting through the edges. And yes, it's very distracting.Not having local dimming on can cause the light bleed or clouding that you may be seeing. Wasn't really noticeable in brighter scenes but was obvious in dark scenes.
This also may be a problem with the game itself. The game is effects-heavy, and some times those effects don't mask all the way to the edge of the screen. I'll get one row of full-bright pixels blasting through the edges. And yes, it's very distracting.
I did try that along with some JavaScript thing that supposedly fixes 60% of stuck pixels. No luck.Have you tried massaging the dead pixel away with your finger? I've been able to get rid of dead pixels on a few LCDs with this method.
Are you crazy, bring the tv back and get a replacement. I couldn't live with a dead pixel.
Take a cab if you have too.
You really seriously have no means to return it? Do none of your friends have a truck? I find it hard to believe that it's that much of a hassle to repackage it and exchange it.
Cut the crap and find a way to exchange it.
Wait...how'd you get it home in the first place if you didn't have a car that fit? Was it a bb.com home delivery order? If so, if you call them for an exchange they'll send over someone to do the pickup and swap for you. Not sure if they offer that for items purchased in a B&M store but wouldn't hurt to ask either. I mean a Geek Squad truck would probably be able to do something like that?
Just call best buy dude. It's not hard. they will offer you a replacement no questions asked. If for some reason they do ask tell them the screen randomly turns off or something. But really they won't ask until they are picking up your old tv. Then tell them you need it delivered and they will schedule a delivery for you.
Damn, you all are a persuasive bunch. I was willing to live with the Dead Pixel as I did not see it as a huge, huge deal. Sure it sucked, but it seemed more hassle than it was worth. However...Get an Uber to take you and the TV to Best Buy
I actually have to thank everyone for making me realize what a stubborn, stupid absolutely lazy bastard I was being.
So I checked the latest firmware on the TV and it says it's up to date and on 7.6.2. However, RTINGS says the latest update is 7.7.0. Why isn't my TV getting the latest firmware?
I tried downloading it manually and putting it on a USB drive but I see no way to install it. The ROKU TV site says you go to system update and select "I cannot connect" but I don't have that option.
someone had this issue earlier in the thread
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=245660532#post245660532
This is 100% the tv to get.so if i had 600-700 to spend on a TV....is this the TV to get?
I called Best Buy. I did not think it was going to be this painless, but just of lifetimeofnot said they would, they issued a Replace/Exchange. They will deliver it to my house again, this time stick around and help me set it up, and if all is good take the current one back. All free of charge.
Ok this Is weird... Last night after switching back to 8 bit color on my Xbox one og, I finally saw the closed eye in Xbox calibration mode... now today no matter WHAT, it is gone.
Is my TV messing with the signal?
If I switch from auto detect TV to manual it gives me some squished up anomaly of a screen display. Need to leave it on auto.
It was the first time in the many times I have tried calibration mode where the eye showed up
Part of me does agree with you which is why i so easily threw in the towel initially, but it is pretty noticeable especially since I noticed it. Even more so when gaming which considering the main reason I got this was to finally enjoy HDR gaming, it does pretty much suck it is there. It is towards the middle as well. If it was towards a corner would be much easier to live with. With that said I honestly can't see me doing another replacement after this. Either the replacement is better and I keep it and/or I do live with this one and/or I do splurge for a different brand. I really do want OLED eventually though but it is just much too expensive now so this truly is the perfect, perfect interim TV. If I do get a good replacement I'd go as far as saying it's a fantastic tv. IF I get a good replacement.peer pressure lol
I personally don't think a single dead pixel on a 4K tv is worth returning IF there are no other issues that bother you and you can't see it in regular viewing.
The dark corners and DSE that seem to plague panels across all brands are both things that would bother me more. Its not like older tvs with less pixel density or a monitor, laptop, where your face is right up against it most of the time. Good luck though.
As a side note, Best Buy won't keep exchanging it. At some point they'll probably just tell you to return it and give you your money back. Also, not sure if you're BB Elite or higher but BB only has a 15 day return window. I don't believe it resets when you do an exchange either.
LOL Seriously everyone else cared more than I did so that made me think possibly I should care more. It definitely made me realize I had nothing to lose trying to call Best Buy. Besides 25 minutes on hold which I actually was able to hang up and have their system call me so I wasn't really on hold, it was painless.Ha! Been following this thread recently as my friend has decided to snag this TV, perfect for his budget and excited for him to get it. The last few days everyone's response to your not calling Best Buy has been great =P
Awesome news. Happy you decided to call. I honestly wish I had known about this gem when I grabbed my 4k TV as I could have saved more money for gaaaaaaaames. =(
Thanks again. It was your straightforward sharing of what would happen that did ultimately convince me.This is 100% the tv to get.
If it makes you feel any better I had a friend talk me into exchanging my tv because it had really bad dirty screen effect lol. He used to work for best buy and he kept telling me about how easy it was going to be and how much I would regret not doing it because of how much I use my tv.
I'm sorry if it's already been answered, but what are the differences between the 607 and the 807? The 807 seems to be a step-up, but I'm not seeing many reviews of it.
Edit: I guess I'm worried response times might be worse, but general feedback would be appreciated.
What is the difference between this TV and the TCL C807?
The C807 has a nicer metallic design and is thinner. However, it lacks the Local dimming found on the P607.
I'm sorry if it's already been answered, but what are the differences between the 607 and the 807? The 807 seems to be a step-up, but I'm not seeing many reviews of it.
Edit: I guess I'm worried response times might be worse, but general feedback would be appreciated.
So out of all the TCL 4K models the P-Series or higher is the only one really worth getting right?
Is it because it offers true 10 bit HDR (or 8 Bit or whatever it is thats supposed to be the best) or can I buy one of the other Letter series and expect a comparable experience?
There's a couple TV's they have that are around $100 less that Seem like they're virtually the same as the P607 but I'm not sure if I'm missing something.
I just think it's weird as fuck that Best Buy regularly has the P607 in stock but Amazon never does
This could be for a number of reasons. The main one being as simple as Best Buy has a better distribution deal with TCL or something along those lines.I just think it's weird as fuck that Best Buy regularly has the P607 in stock but Amazon never does
Doesn't look like it.Is there still no way to get this in Europe?
I dont have this TV or know much about them but I'm pretty sure the answer is yes, the P605/607 is the only one you want until they release more later in the fall I think it is. I don't remember for sure but I think the peak brightness was part of it. This one is better than others in regards to that and I think local dimming, whatever the fuck that is. Usually only pricier TVs have that. It also supports Dolby Vision which I think is a newer type of HDR standard. Other TVs in this range don't support it.
And Amazon did have it in stock until just a few days ago (they were in and out of stock a lot since it's release). I have no idea why they aren't selling it anymore but I did find it odd and posted about it in this thread the day it happened.
Honestly I'd have jumped on this by now but I got a deal from someone here on a better set.
If you dont mind the slightly shittier remote (no voice search and no remote locator) then I'd jump on that $600 Best Buy P605 before that disappears too. Unless you just want to wait for the other sets to release.
Edit: Also the input lag is crazy low on the p605/607 so its great for gaming. Don't know about other TCL TVs.
Edit again: So yeah I looked and other TCLs also support HDR 10/Dolby Vision. The p605/607 though has much higher peak brightness than the others, is direct lit (vs edge lit) and has the local dimming that the others don't.
Doesn't look like it.
Is there confirmation of a 65" on the way?
Anyone tested the input lag in non hdr situations with gaming mode on and off, specifically fps?
Is there any point in not turning gaming mode on, can anyone pin point what it's actually doing compared to gaming mode off in non hdr and hdr situations?
SameSupposedly a 50" and 65" later this year. Cnet says Q4. I'm holding out for the 50" myself.
Apparently non game mode input lag still better than most TVs game mode lagAnyone tested the input lag in non hdr situations with gaming mode on and off, specifically fps?
Is there any point in not turning gaming mode on, can anyone pin point what it's actually doing compared to gaming mode off in non hdr and hdr situations?
Is there confirmation of a 65" on the way?
so if i had 600-700 to spend on a TV....is this the TV to get?
Yes, even if you expand your budget to 1k. Only the Sony 900e TV beats the 607 and that's more than twice as expensive as the 607.
Yes, even if you expand your budget to 1k. Only the Sony 900e TV beats the 607 and that's more than twice as expensive as the 607.
You bought the better tv.Someone make me feel good about springing for the P model over the S
Really leaning towards getting this this week. Have a couple year old 48" 1080P Vizio set that has served me well, but I just moved into a new place and I think the extra size would be nice (plus I recently got a PS4 Pro). I was reading that the model sold at Best Buy has a different remote though? Is the only difference?
Agreed.
If we're being honest this TV is probably being sold too cheap!
It says something when the better TV is around $700 more.
Ordered a P605 from Best Buy a few days ago, should be here Tuesday. Here's hoping there's no issues - I've had really bad luck with electronics and PC hardware the past few years.
Two defective PSUs, two monitors with bad dead pixels, and just a few months ago my video card died. Please send help.
Ok I just did the update via USB stick. I followed Rtings settings to a tee BUT am using normal temperature and normal for "TV brightness" setting. Pretty happy. Warm is just too yellow for me, am I crazy? I chose normal for TV brightness because HDR it's supposed to be on darkest and non HDR it's supposed to be on darkest so I just split the difference as this seems to be the one setting that is not independent of the source / input (correct me if I'm wrong)