Flying_Phoenix
Banned
weekend_warrior said:
My brother took it off and not me. And yes I have the bolts to it.
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The Official Help-Me-Fix-My-Car-Age Thread
- Thread starter Flying_Phoenix
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My brother took it off and not me. And yes I have the bolts to it.
weekend_warrior
Banned
Flying_Phoenix said:
Well then just stick it back up there and try to figure out how it goes, like a jigsaw puzzle.
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
weekend_warrior said:
I'm trying. It's been so long.
It can't be behind the wheel bearing can it?
I've tried that so many times.
Hmm.
Would love to hear opinions on this. I have an 03 Hyundai accent with a persistent misfire at stoplights and on decel. Always on cylinder 2. New plugs, wires, and coil already . Also ran seafoam through the gas tank and crankcase.
It recently stopped for about 500 miles and then came back with a vengence. Any ideas on what I am chasing here?
Would love to hear opinions on this. I have an 03 Hyundai accent with a persistent misfire at stoplights and on decel. Always on cylinder 2. New plugs, wires, and coil already . Also ran seafoam through the gas tank and crankcase.
It recently stopped for about 500 miles and then came back with a vengence. Any ideas on what I am chasing here?
Lion Heart
Banned
Ettie said:
Its probably misfiring constantly, you just notice it during those times. Could be the injector?
parrotbeak
Member
Came back to my car after dinner tonight to find a tire flat with a nail jammed in it.
I had a slime kit in my trunk for a while. Got it as a gift and never used it cuz I always just used the spare. But I was far from home and didn't want to drive that distance on the spare, so I tried to figure out how to use it.
Luckily I couldn't get the nail out, which you have to do for it to work, so ended up using spare and just driving slow on back roads.
Reading reviews of slime kits, sounds like the consensus is not to use them.
So what's the best way to go about repairing this thing? It's a nail straight in the middle. Haven't pulled it out yet. It's late and storming so will deal with it tomorrow.
I had a slime kit in my trunk for a while. Got it as a gift and never used it cuz I always just used the spare. But I was far from home and didn't want to drive that distance on the spare, so I tried to figure out how to use it.
Luckily I couldn't get the nail out, which you have to do for it to work, so ended up using spare and just driving slow on back roads.
Reading reviews of slime kits, sounds like the consensus is not to use them.
So what's the best way to go about repairing this thing? It's a nail straight in the middle. Haven't pulled it out yet. It's late and storming so will deal with it tomorrow.
parrotbeak
Member
Cool, thanks, checked a youtube and I guess I'll pick up a plug kit. Looks easy. I want black licorice now.
parrotbeak
Member
I hardly drink so that won't be a problem. Thanks for the advice!daw840 said:
So just for reassurance, the Slime repair plugs say that it's only for temporary use to get to a repair shop for a professional fix. That's just a cover-your-ass disclaimer right? It looks the same as the stuff the repair shop used last time I got a nail. So as long as I did a good job and it's not leaking now, it should be good?
I just showered and still have this sticky tar shit under my nails.
parrotbeak
Member
Well, so far so good. I plugged it Saturday afternoon, drove for a few minutes that night, then again yesterday. Rained hard all weekend and my parking lot was an inch or so in water last night. Drove about 15 miles on the freeway this morning and seems to have held up.
I guess I'll just keep testing the pressure this week and then assume it's good.
I guess I'll just keep testing the pressure this week and then assume it's good.
parrotbeak
Member
Ya, I did that, thanks. I'm just worried because the package says it's just a temporary fix, and online people advise to do a patch from the inside for true peace of mind. But I also read that if your tire is in good shape, a plug will probably out last the tire.daw840 said:A trick to find a leak is to make a very diluted water/soap solution and spray it on the tire. Where the bubbles form is where it's leaking. This will show you if there are any issues instead of just a wait and see if it blows approach.
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
So yeah I've been changing my car's control arms recently and they're almost done.
I'm at the part of reassembling everything.
I'm now trying put in the brake lines back on to the caliper. However when I put it on it twists the hose it gets mishmashed. I assume this is because I am not suppose to do it from the bottom?
How exactly am I suppose to take of the brake line/hose that connects to the caliper?
By the way I have a 2000 Ford Focus SE.
I'm at the part of reassembling everything.
I'm now trying put in the brake lines back on to the caliper. However when I put it on it twists the hose it gets mishmashed. I assume this is because I am not suppose to do it from the bottom?
How exactly am I suppose to take of the brake line/hose that connects to the caliper?
By the way I have a 2000 Ford Focus SE.
I know this will probably never get a second glance, and I'm usually the one answering questions, but I was wondering if anyone here knows how to program a homelink system in a 2000 Nissan Maxima. It's the kind in the visor and I don't see any light on it to indicate when to push the button on the garage. I just bought the car today, and unfortunately it did not come with an owner's manual.
weekend_warrior
Banned
Flying_Phoenix said:
Not sure I really understand the question. If you got the brakeline off how come you can't get it back on? What kind of connection to the caliper is it- something like this?
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
weekend_warrior said:
That's old. I figured that out already.
weekend_warrior
Banned
oops, didn't realize your question was from a few weeks ago.
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
weekend_warrior said:
I have some other problems now too.
But I'm going to just take it into a shop.
The reason why this is taking so long (like Duke Nukem Forever long) is because me and my brother are fixing up my Grandma's house (from pretty much scratch) and don't have too much time to work on it. Also I just use my Mom's car since I don't HAVE to have my car.
Anyway the current problems I have:
NOTE THESE ARE ALL GOING TO BE TAKEN CARE OF WITH THE SHOP I'M TAKING IT TOO
- Like an idiot I jump started my car wrong. I had to charge my battery for a long time then it worked. However once I turned it off it didn't. There was some power to the car but it acted very funky. So I took it to Autozone to have them test it out and they said that my battery was dead. I got a new one and the same thing is happening. :?
I assume its the alternator but I'm going to take my car to get it diagnose.
- There is also a problem with the brakes. When I brake they are very loose. I tried changing the brake fluid but that didn't work, however like a dumbass I forgot to empty the old brake fluid from the calipers and trying it again. If that doesn't work I assume its the master cylinder.
Just a quick update, all this should be fixed at the shop.
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
My car is completely fixed now.
No problems at all.
However I do have two questions:
#1 I'm looking to get a tire alignment. Should I only get the front 2 done or all 4? My car is only 2 wheel drive like most cars.
#2 When changing the car's stereo I just have to unhook the battery and thats it right? I don't have to do anything else in terms of precautions?
No problems at all.
However I do have two questions:
#1 I'm looking to get a tire alignment. Should I only get the front 2 done or all 4? My car is only 2 wheel drive like most cars.
#2 When changing the car's stereo I just have to unhook the battery and thats it right? I don't have to do anything else in terms of precautions?
weekend_warrior
Banned
Flying_Phoenix said:
1. Get all 4 done, doesn't make much sense to only do 2.
2. Yep thats right, just disconnect the ground cable on the battery if you're worried about getting shocked. However the simple act of changing a radio can be pretty laborious. You have a new wiring harness, a din (if needed), and a basic wire crimping kit right?
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
weekend_warrior said:
I have the harness and crimping tool, but I don't have a din (that's this right?). I'm not sure if its 100% needed or not but it looks like there is going to be a fair share of vertical space left when the stereo is installed.
Here's what I purchased. Also this.
Also I actually recently got 4 new tires (well it as a few months ago but I've barely put 1,000 miles on the car since then. Do they align them when they are installing new tires?
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
My car runs perfect but I do notice that my steering wheel is a bit strange.
To get the car running straight I have to turn it to the left at a 10 degree angle, and when I put it completely straight the car moves toward the right a bit.
I've been told that this means I have to get my tires aligned, is that true? I thought I maybe had to readjust the steering wheel or something.
To get the car running straight I have to turn it to the left at a 10 degree angle, and when I put it completely straight the car moves toward the right a bit.
I've been told that this means I have to get my tires aligned, is that true? I thought I maybe had to readjust the steering wheel or something.
weekend_warrior
Banned
Flying_Phoenix said:
That's probably your alignment.
Lion Heart
Banned
Flying_Phoenix said:
No, tires are not part of an alignment, its the steering and suspension components that get aligned. Your tires should have been balanced though. Your steering problem is an alignment problem.
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
So yeah I'm installing the stereo, but the manual says that I should be sure to use a 5 Amp AGC Fuse.
Does that mean the fuse on my car's fusebox or something else? 5 amps just seems abnormally low to me.
Here's the stereo's manual and it says it on page 3 and some others too I believe.
Does that mean the fuse on my car's fusebox or something else? 5 amps just seems abnormally low to me.
Here's the stereo's manual and it says it on page 3 and some others too I believe.
parrotbeak
Member
I have nothing to contribute but I'm curious to know how the car stereo turns out. Do you have any experience with that sort of thing? I would like to change my stereo also, and that one you posted would be perfect for me, but I've never done it before.
What's it generally cost if you take a stereo purchased on amazon to a car stereo place to have it installed?
What's it generally cost if you take a stereo purchased on amazon to a car stereo place to have it installed?
weekend_warrior
Banned
Flying_Phoenix said:
An AGC fuse is this:
Your stereo should have came with a one and some type of holder like this:
You'll want to wire it inline between the stereo wiring harness and the vehicle wiring harness.
parrotbeak said:
Bestbuy will install a head unit for $50, which is pretty reasonable. I wouldn't take my car there personally, but I'm pretty anal about who touches my car.
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
weekend_warrior said:
What do you mean by this? Specifically "inline"?
weekend_warrior said:
Unless I'm taking my car to a highly reputable place there is no way anyone is touching it. After seeing what some shops have done to the car when the previous owner had it, forget about it.
weekend_warrior
Banned
Flying_Phoenix said:
you know, in series, as opposed to wiring it parallel. Like this.
Anton668
Member
Wish I had seen this thread before.
A quick tip for buying a used car: Avoid ones that have been sitting on grass for a year or more!
Bought a '97 Taurus a few years back and im in the middle of replacing the subframe, ball joints, outer tie rod ends, swaybar links, inner tie rod pass side, swaybar, control arm bushing, pads, rotors, O2 sensor.... think thats it for now...
all this started out as a simple brake job, go figure...
got some pics i'll post when i get them off the camera, like the one of the mouse who set up home in the old subframe... then died because he was right over the exhust....
And thank god my brother in law works at a parts store and gets me parts for little over cost!
Also ppl, buy a set of tools! Better to have them when the need arises!
A quick tip for buying a used car: Avoid ones that have been sitting on grass for a year or more!
Bought a '97 Taurus a few years back and im in the middle of replacing the subframe, ball joints, outer tie rod ends, swaybar links, inner tie rod pass side, swaybar, control arm bushing, pads, rotors, O2 sensor.... think thats it for now...
all this started out as a simple brake job, go figure...
got some pics i'll post when i get them off the camera, like the one of the mouse who set up home in the old subframe... then died because he was right over the exhust....
And thank god my brother in law works at a parts store and gets me parts for little over cost!
Also ppl, buy a set of tools! Better to have them when the need arises!
AlteredBeast
Fork 'em, Sparky!
I think my serpentine belt broke...
Tell me if I think I got this right:
It is making a kind of whine sound when I run it.
The battery sign and brake light are both lit up on my dash and there is no power steering.
It overheated and I had to pull over and get it towed home.
How can I check and how bad is it to replace?
2001 Altima!
Tell me if I think I got this right:
It is making a kind of whine sound when I run it.
The battery sign and brake light are both lit up on my dash and there is no power steering.
It overheated and I had to pull over and get it towed home.
How can I check and how bad is it to replace?
2001 Altima!
weekend_warrior
Banned
AlteredBeast said:I think my serpentine belt broke...
Tell me if I think I got this right:
It is making a kind of whine sound when I run it.
The battery sign and brake light are both lit up on my dash and there is no power steering.
It overheated and I had to pull over and get it towed home.
How can I check and how bad is it to replace?
2001 Altima!
Replacing a serpentine belt is the easiest thing to do. Takes 10 minutes and a new belt only costs like $30.
What sites does Gaf trust to buy auto parts from? My 2000 Ford Mustangs Fuel Filler Neck Grommet busted so I am leaking gas and need to find a reliable site to get it from. Halp?
Looked around and have found this one for 18.99 +6.99 for Shipping
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-9072C/1999-04-Mustang-Fuel-Tank-Filler-Grommet
probably the best price I will find.
Anyone had to replace this part on their vehicle before? Any tips?
Looked around and have found this one for 18.99 +6.99 for Shipping
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-9072C/1999-04-Mustang-Fuel-Tank-Filler-Grommet
probably the best price I will find.
Anyone had to replace this part on their vehicle before? Any tips?
amazon is great for many car parts, but they don't carry everything.
rockauto.com is also a great site for car parts, and more comprehensive than amazon.
try and find a copy of the service manual online if you're unsure how to proceed. those usually clear things up really well. i've never worked on a 2000ish mustang before so that's all i can offer.
rockauto.com is also a great site for car parts, and more comprehensive than amazon.
SolidC213 said:
try and find a copy of the service manual online if you're unsure how to proceed. those usually clear things up really well. i've never worked on a 2000ish mustang before so that's all i can offer.
I have a 2000 Honda Civic and my car makes a loud squealing noise whenever I turn right. I figured it probably has something to do with the power steering, and I checked the fluid levels, which are normal, and the belt looks fine. Could it just be the belt and I am not knowing what to look for? I am really not technically proficient when it comes to cars, but I don't really wan't to pay to get it fixed until I know what it actually is so I don't get screwed.
omgkitty said:
does it sound like it's coming from the wheel or the engine? if the wheel it could be a bearing or something in the suspension. if it only happens when you turn right i'd lean towards this being the problem.
for the belt, check the ribs and see if they're worn down or cracked, or maybe the belt is just loose. chances are if the belt is the original and over 10 years old it could use replacing. you could try tightening it, or better yet use a mist bottle to wet it down and see if the symptoms change (the squeal should lessen while it's wet, letting you know if it's the belt or not)
diddles said:
If it helps, I noticed that it started happening not too long after I had new tires put on. It does sound like it may be coming from the wheel as well. If it is a bearing or something with the suspension, what would be the cost of something like that? I don't really notice any other problems besides it being very annoying.
Edit: When I first got the tires put on, I noticed some vibrations while driving, but they finally went away, but turned into squealing if that helps. I have read some things that may point to the backing plate being an issue?
diddles said:
I checked out rockauto.com and I don't think they have the part I am looking for unless this is it: 2000 FORD MUSTANG 3.8L 232cid V6 FI (4) OHV : Emission : PCV Valve / Crankcase Ventilation Grommet. At $2.23 its a steal but I am not 100% sure its the same thing as a Fuel Filler Neck Grommit...I will keep looking into it. Thanks for the help diddles!
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
When driving my car, if I press my brakes down hard sometimes toward the end I feel (through the pedal) the calipers (or brake pads) stopping and locking onto the rotor. If I have the windows open and have no music on I can kind of hear it to, sorta a light clunking noise.
Is this normal?
EDIT - To clarify, the car brakes perfectly fine.
Car: 2000 Ford Focus SE
Is this normal?
EDIT - To clarify, the car brakes perfectly fine.
Car: 2000 Ford Focus SE
Mistake
Member
Hey guys, I have a 1988 Mercury Sable 3.0 V6. I am trying to bypass the AC with a shorter serpentine belt. Everywhere I look says I have the correct belt, but there is no way this is going around the tension. Looking at both belts, you would think it should work, but for some reason it just seems there is not enough length once it's on. The one I got has the model number 25060525 if it helps. Does anyone know why it won't work? I'll take pics tomorrow when there is light if needed.
I need to get my AC recharged, plus the rotor seems to stop sometimes and cause friction. That's why I'm just skipping it. Thanks for any advice
I need to get my AC recharged, plus the rotor seems to stop sometimes and cause friction. That's why I'm just skipping it. Thanks for any advice
parrotbeak
Member
What does it mean that my left blinker is blinking at a noticeably faster rate than it did before and faster than the right side?
BigJonsson
Member
1998 Altima SE
235,000 KM
Automatic Transmission
Keeps stalling or almost stalling at stop signs, red lights and when I park.......usually restarts right away when I turn the key but sometimes it takes a few tries
The RPM seems to go up and down wildly right before it stalls
235,000 KM
Automatic Transmission
Keeps stalling or almost stalling at stop signs, red lights and when I park.......usually restarts right away when I turn the key but sometimes it takes a few tries
The RPM seems to go up and down wildly right before it stalls
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