lordfuzzybutt
Member
OK so where is the fuel tank, and does it need diesel or petrol?!
It is hidden deep in the core vortex. Best not to meddle with it.
-
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
It is hidden deep in the core vortex. Best not to meddle with it.
Enosh
Member
remember the whole noise issue I was complaining about a few pages back?
well to my utter shock actually adding that second fan seems to have fixed it, played DA:I yesterday for like a hour and half and wow now for like 2h and the noise was completely on what I perceive normal PC levels, didn't do the high pitched whining noise it did before
idk if it's the fact that the fan is working and taking heat away or if it's just some stupid motherboard/bios thing where the CPU one was getting crazy because nothing was actually plugged into the system fan slot (the front fan is just connected to the psu), so really happy now ^^ (knocks on wood)
well to my utter shock actually adding that second fan seems to have fixed it, played DA:I yesterday for like a hour and half and wow now for like 2h and the noise was completely on what I perceive normal PC levels, didn't do the high pitched whining noise it did before
idk if it's the fact that the fan is working and taking heat away or if it's just some stupid motherboard/bios thing where the CPU one was getting crazy because nothing was actually plugged into the system fan slot (the front fan is just connected to the psu), so really happy now ^^ (knocks on wood)
Hmm I just ordered a GTX 780TI (to replace my elderly 6670) mainly because the power seemed to rival the GTX 980 but around 3/4 of the price, £250 shipped. I hope i have made the right decision. Anyone care to comment?
I also have a 6670
You'll probably miss on more Dx12 features and also the improvements on performance per watt that are on Maxwell and are pretty good. Other than that, it will get the job done. It's a great card and at that price you did good.
Is a 4GB version of the 960 really going to provide that significant of a performance boost? Watch Dogs is really that texture heavy?
I'm a little late on this -- was out for coffee -- but that benchmark chart is super misleading. Most of the cards there are 2GB cards, and it's conspicuously missing the 770 4GB.
I mean, yes there will be a performance bump from 2GB to 4GB but it'll still lag behind cards with higher bandwidths.
On the other hand, the surprising thing about that chart is that it's beating the 280X. I think I saw benches on another site that showed the opposite. Might've been the 290X though, not entirely sure.
I just hope and keeps there drivers together.
I'm in this waiting pattern atm.
But I did buy a new monitor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BZNDS0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
From 1650x1050
To 1920x1080
I'm in this waiting pattern atm.
But I did buy a new monitor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BZNDS0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
From 1650x1050
To 1920x1080
AstroZombie
Banned
Cross posting from the BST. I'm looking to sell my old ASUS HD7970. PM if interested.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=158039281&postcount=3666
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=158039281&postcount=3666
how much of an upgrade would this be from my 6670?
Much, much, much better.
Nesmaster75
Member
Welp, just realized I also need a keyboard with my new PC lol. Really like the look of this Corsair (minus the wrist pad) but it doesn't have back lit keys. Can anyone recommend a mini mechanical gaming keyboard that isn't too much?
Link: http://www.corsair.com/en/vengeance-k60-performance-fps-mechanical-gaming-keyboard
Link: http://www.corsair.com/en/vengeance-k60-performance-fps-mechanical-gaming-keyboard
Others have already given you build suggestions, so I'll just answer the question.
1. The i5 4690K is preferable for the good cost-to-performance when it comes to gaming framerate and the fact that it can overclock, which makes it a capable processor for gaming for at least the next 3 years. If you want Skylake however, that $450 of processor and motherboard that will be wasted. Skylake CPUs are incompatible with existing motherboards and will be launching on the new Z170 motherboard platform.
2. mATX is neither less capable nor lower performing than a larger ATX motherboard. All you're losing out on is more expansion slots.
3. Like Skylake, DDR4 is incompatible with existing DDR3 motherboards. You will not be able to buy DDR4 and install it in a DDR3 motherboard.
4. The Crucial MX100 is a fine SSD, but there are the newer BX100 and MX200 models to consider. The MX200 offers improved performance for a higher price, while the BX100 is meant to be a cheaper model and may be slightly cheaper than or equal to the MX100 in price (at least in North America it is). I guess you got the price for the MX100 off ebay, because it is a bit cheaper than the 250GB BX100 in Australian retail stores.
5. The GTX 970 is a great card for 1080p gaming, despite the 3.5GB VRAM issue. Games at 1080p currently rarely go over 3GB, but they may do in the future. If you want even greater bang for the buck then consider the R9 290, it offers similar performance for a lower cost ($383 for a new R9 290, or whatever the price on ebay is).
6. You really only need that much wattage if you plan to run twin graphics cards, which is not possible if you're going to be using a mATX motherboard with a graphics card, wifi card, and sound card. I know you're already planning for the build after this one, so it's up to you.
7. You could get a motherboard like the MSI Z97M-G43 ($132 new or whatever the ebay price is), it has 4 PCI-E slots which is perfect. The graphics card will take up two slots, so you should have two more slots left for your sound and wifi cards.
I suggest you hold off on buying that sound card unless it's on sale or cheap, though. Why bother buying something if you're not going to use it yet (warranty will just run out), and you don't know when you'll need it. You could change your mind in the future about a sound card or discover you need a sound card with different features. Hold off for now, and just buy the sound card until you also buy the headphones you want.
What motherboard and CPU cooler do you have? The i5 2500K is still very potent with current games. When overclocked, on average it is within 10% of the 4670K/4690K according to tests done by Ocaholic.
I also recommend you reinstall Windows, it can get sluggish over time from accumulated bloat/crap and spyware and who-knows-what. If you don't already have an SSD, then I recommend that as well, it will go a much longer way towards making Windows feel faster than a ~10% faster CPU will.
Sapphire is generally regarded as being one of the better AMD graphics card partners, their triple fan coolers are excellent performing yet quiet. XFX shouldn't be bad, it's probably has a somewhat less effective cooler but smaller in size than the Sapphire card.
There's still 2~3 months before the new R9 3XX line releases, according to rumors.
I cannot recommend either purchase. In single core performance and game framerate, there is not much difference between the 8120, 6300, and 8350. You'd be spending money on what is essentially a 5~10% difference or less.
FX-8120 vs FX-8350
FX-8120 vs FX-6300
You would see a greater difference upgrading to an Intel i5 processor, but that would be $300 USD at the very least.
FX-8120 vs i5 4690K
Honestly, I'd say you should just hold on your your FX-8120 now and see how well it does, and then only upgrade if it still isn't enough or the results you're seeing are much slower than what others are getting with a 7970/R9 280X. It seems that your FX-8120 is on par with a current generation Intel i3 4360 in some games which isn't that bad at all.
Another option would be overclocking your FX-8120, but you'll need a decent motherboard and CPU cooler to do it. According to Bit-Tech and Anandtech, with the right hardware you could get up to 4.5GHz easily, so that will help remedy the 8120's anemic performance.
So the noise I thought was from my PSU, previous page a poster said it could be coil whine...
I went and exchanged the PSU just in case, and the noise didn't change.
Turns out the noise wasn't from the PCU, I just found out it was actually from the Wi-Fi card :|
The ASUS PCE-AC68. There's this blue led at the back, under heavy load when it flashes, the sound appears. Also seems to be a common issue.
I've actually gotten it to be a tad quieter after fiddling around with it and the driver and software, but its still there. Not sure if I should just go for another wireless card altogether.
I went and exchanged the PSU just in case, and the noise didn't change.
Turns out the noise wasn't from the PCU, I just found out it was actually from the Wi-Fi card :|
The ASUS PCE-AC68. There's this blue led at the back, under heavy load when it flashes, the sound appears. Also seems to be a common issue.
I've actually gotten it to be a tad quieter after fiddling around with it and the driver and software, but its still there. Not sure if I should just go for another wireless card altogether.
thank you thank you thank you. I'll see how it goes and opt for an i5 if I need to.
So my 570 died on me. What is recommended to play current gen games at 1080 on high? I have an i5 2500k from when I built it. Is that still OK these days?
Is there anything coming out in the next few weeks that I should wait for? Otherwise I was thinking of getting the 970GTX.
Is there anything coming out in the next few weeks that I should wait for? Otherwise I was thinking of getting the 970GTX.
Your CPU is still fine for 1080p. Overclock it if possible to get a few extra FPS.
970 GTX is great for 1080p gaming or even a 290x if you prefer the AMD camp.
ultimatebestusername
Member
Just bought two 970's thanks to ebay's 20% off in Australia. Can't wait to try these on my new 1440p monitor
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
I made a bootable Win8.1 USB drive using Microsoft's tool thing, and for some reason I can't boot and install Windows via USB 3.0. I'm sure there's some reason, but I can't be arsed to figure it out now. Just gonna use USB 2.0 to boot.
There are many issues with proper USB 3.0 driver support. I've heard of fixes involving unplugging and replacing the USB drive in another port after already reaching the Windows installer prompt in order to get Windows to recognize the USB drive again.
I'd also just use USB 2.0, it's still fast and has best compatibility.
Welcome to the club.
I've had similar issues with previous builds, which bummed me out because one of the major pros of having an USB 3 port and stick is that you can install windows blazing fast.
I'm guessing that the USB 3 controller might need additional drivers to work, which the windows installation does not come prebaked with.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
*Using Windows 8.1 Pro for the very first time*
Holy fuck am I missing something, or is this UI a piece of hot shit? I googled for instructions on how to restore the classic start menu (since that was a feature of 8.1 right?) but I can't find the option in the control panel. Instead of "Taskbar and Start Menu", I see "Taskbar and Navigation".
I miss Windows 7.
Holy fuck am I missing something, or is this UI a piece of hot shit? I googled for instructions on how to restore the classic start menu (since that was a feature of 8.1 right?) but I can't find the option in the control panel. Instead of "Taskbar and Start Menu", I see "Taskbar and Navigation".
I miss Windows 7.
No, all you get is a start button that opens the metro tile UI. I recommend Classic Shell if you want the old start menu back.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
So after a rough time last week (I gave notice at work, as the way they were treating me was ridiculous,) I decided to finish the PC I had been planning for the last four months.
I only had two parts left - the CPR and Graphics Card (three, including the CPU cooler) and they were the most expensive, so I decided instead to get the inexpensive versions for the time being, with the view to upgrade to the i5/i7 and a better card when I'm back on my feet.
First SSD drive too, my last PC was back around 2011/2012, so it's pretty nice to have a rig that takes 30 seconds max from bios to windows.
Maximum wattage is just one metric and not a very useful one when comparing PSUs. Taken on its own, it's a downright awful way to choose a unit. Maximum watts should be used only as a starting point. So, no, higher is not always better.
Efficiency and quality of power delivery are more important to my mind. Do yourself a favour and read some reviews on Hardware Secrets and jonnyguru. A lot of stuff will go over your head, but their recommendations are generally sound.
Soodanim
Member
Help me, PC GAF.
Part of me wants to buy the AOC G2460PG - a 1080p 144hz gsync monitor with a good review on Toms Hardware. I have been curious about gsync for a while, because tearing is awful. I have a 970 and a 4690k to power it, and I'm not bothered about going over 1080p.
What I need is negatives. I need to know what's bad about gsync or the idea of me buying this monitor to either convince me not to buy it or to be aware of the drawbacks before I jump in.
Part of me wants to buy the AOC G2460PG - a 1080p 144hz gsync monitor with a good review on Toms Hardware. I have been curious about gsync for a while, because tearing is awful. I have a 970 and a 4690k to power it, and I'm not bothered about going over 1080p.
What I need is negatives. I need to know what's bad about gsync or the idea of me buying this monitor to either convince me not to buy it or to be aware of the drawbacks before I jump in.
thanks, I'll hit the books.
N
NinjaFridge
Unconfirmed Member
Would there be a noticeable difference if I put a gpu in a PCI Express x16 slot that is running at x8, compared to using a slot running at x16. I see it's fairly common on motherboards to have 2 x16 slots but with 1 running at x8 and the other at x16.
opticalmace
Member
I think it's about a couple percent different in terms of performance, IIRC. Not really a big deal.
br0ken_shad0w
Member
Wow to think I never overclocked my 4770k since the day I bought it (which was almost 2 years ago). That's going to change right now. However, I keep hearing that Prime95 + Haswell isn't a good combo. What are the ideal programs for stress testing that particular CPU?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Aida64, occt are good.
If you can tell us what your major components are and whether you're overclocking, we can probably give you a ballpark to help you search. Most single-GPU games PCs will manage with a good quality 550W unit. The OP builds have some explicit recommendations too.
I have just purchased an ASUS HD 7970.
I have an AMD FX-8120 eight-core 3.10 GHz with 8GB RAM which I may replace if it causes problems with the 7970.
Is there a way to determine what my existing PSU is without opening the case?
Okay, right thread this time:
As I'm likely to be moving soon, my current console/TV/PC combo will likely be broken up as I'll have a living room to myself again.
So, I need tips on a new cheap-ish monitor for the PC. I have a budget of around £100-£150 and I'm fine with a 1080 resolution instead of 1440 for the time being. Important thing for me is refresh rates, as I've had to put up with my TV's rather choppy handling when it came to areas such as scrolling the map in Pillars Of Eternity.
Ideally, about 24" would be nice for the size too. It has been a bit silly being sat up close to a 32" screen.
Thanks in advance for any help.
As I'm likely to be moving soon, my current console/TV/PC combo will likely be broken up as I'll have a living room to myself again.
So, I need tips on a new cheap-ish monitor for the PC. I have a budget of around £100-£150 and I'm fine with a 1080 resolution instead of 1440 for the time being. Important thing for me is refresh rates, as I've had to put up with my TV's rather choppy handling when it came to areas such as scrolling the map in Pillars Of Eternity.
Ideally, about 24" would be nice for the size too. It has been a bit silly being sat up close to a 32" screen.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Thanks Idba, Stubo and RGM79 for your feedback! So this is what I have now:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($310.40)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($85.00 @ IJK)
Motherboard: MSI Z97M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($132.00 @ IJK)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($92)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($134.40)
Storage: Western Digital Red 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($152.00)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($447.20)
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($109.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($120.80)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-209DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($87.20)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($188.0)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($45.00 @ CPL Online)
Mouse: SteelSeries Rival Wired Optical Mouse ($65.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $2002.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-31 01:03 EST+1100
So I have few more questions and comments.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($310.40)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($85.00 @ IJK)
Motherboard: MSI Z97M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($132.00 @ IJK)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($92)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($134.40)
Storage: Western Digital Red 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($152.00)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($447.20)
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($109.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($120.80)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-209DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($87.20)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($188.0)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($45.00 @ CPL Online)
Mouse: SteelSeries Rival Wired Optical Mouse ($65.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $2002.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-31 01:03 EST+1100
So I have few more questions and comments.
-
This case looks really nice. Unfortunately, I just realised I want an optical drive. Do you guys have any suggestions similar to this? -
So the 750W Gold isn't on sale but the Bronze is. I'm not 100% if I'll go SLI later on but do you think the 650 would be suitable for a single next generation high end card when they come out?
-
I'll get a WD Red to store my games. I can use my old HDDs to store other media. How are the reds? Are they loud?
-
Yep, that's kind of the plan. If the new tech is good, I don't mind spending 1k in a year or so's time to get a new Mobo, CPU, RAM and Graphics card. That means I don't mind skimping out on things like the Mobo, CPU and Ram now as I can upgrade later. That said, I'm quite happy with what I'm spending now. Alternative suggestions for the mobo would be great though as that particular model doesn't seem to be on sale at the moment. - The mobo, cooler, case and wifi card aren't on sale so I can take some time to think about those choices.
- I'll probably grab a sound card for now since it's cheapish and gives me a reason to finally get some decent headphones.
- I'll be getting a keyboard later on. I'm currently set on the Corsair K95 RGB Cherry Brown as it has all the features I want. I've never owned a mechanical keyboard but I think the Cherry Brown switches might be suited for me since it sounds like it is middle ground between Blues and Reds.
Best Buy is having a sale on 120GB PNY Optima SSDs for $39.99 (US afaik).
They could serve nicely as an extra drive to install some choice games.
They could serve nicely as an extra drive to install some choice games
.For what it's worth, the Asus VX238H (£145) has a good rating on the input lag database on displaylag.com, and is advertised as having a 1ms grey-to-grey response time.
If you want to save some money, the slightly larger Asus VE247H (£124) also has a good rating at that database and is advertised with a 2ms GTG response time.
Thanks Idba, Stubo and RGM79 for your feedback! So this is what I have now:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($310.40)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($85.00 @ IJK)
Motherboard: MSI Z97M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($132.00 @ IJK)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($92)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($134.40)
Storage: Western Digital Red 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($152.00)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($447.20)
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($109.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($120.80)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-209DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($87.20)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($188.0)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($45.00 @ CPL Online)
Mouse: SteelSeries Rival Wired Optical Mouse ($65.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $2002.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-31 01:03 EST+1100
So I have few more questions and comments.
This case looks really nice. Unfortunately, I just realised I want an optical drive. Do you guys have any suggestions similar to this?
So the 750W Gold isn't on sale but the Bronze is. I'm not 100% if I'll go SLI later on but do you think the 650 would be suitable for a single next generation high end card when they come out?
I'll get a WD Red to store my games. I can use my old HDDs to store other media. How are the reds? Are they loud?
Yep, that's kind of the plan. If the new tech is good, I don't mind spending 1k in a year or so's time to get a new Mobo, CPU, RAM and Graphics card. That means I don't mind skimping out on things like the Mobo, CPU and Ram now as I can upgrade later. That said, I'm quite happy with what I'm spending now. Alternative suggestions for the mobo would be great though as that particular model doesn't seem to be on sale at the moment.- The mobo, cooler, case and wifi card aren't on sale so I can take some time to think about those choices.
- I'll probably grab a sound card for now since it's cheapish and gives me a reason to finally get some decent headphones.
- I'll be getting a keyboard later on. I'm currently set on the Corsair K95 RGB Cherry Brown as it has all the features I want. I've never owned a mechanical keyboard but I think the Cherry Brown switches might be suited for me since it sounds like it is middle ground between Blues and Reds.
1. Bitfenix has the Prodigy M which is internally nearly identical compared to the Phenom M, but has a somewhat different exterior with room for an optical drive. It comes in various colours for $99~123.
2. Yes, 650 watts is enough for any single high end card barring monsters like the AMD R9 295X2. I wouldn't consider gold or bronze energy efficiency ratings to be indicative of a power supply's actual quality. That EVGA 650 watt gold model is actually sorta so-so according to this HardOCP review, it's an older discontinued model. Passable, but not the greatest. If you want something higher quality, look for an XFX power supply as their models are designed and manufactured by Seasonic, one of the best names for quality power supplies. It shows when their power supplies get excellent high scoring reviews across the board from professional websites that take apart the power supply and run them under torture testing scenarios.
3. Why a WD Red hard drive? Those are slower and more expensive drives meant for NAS/server roles and are marketed for 24/7 stability and reliability, not speed. They have server-oriented features and will actually perform a bit slower than a consumer 7200RPM hard drive like a WD Blue model. I guess if you don't mind the slower loading times then it's fine, but we usually recommend 7200RPM hard drives or SSDs for games. For example, instead I would recommend you get this Toshiba 3TB 7200RPM hard drive ($130 or so). As far as consumer models go, they are reliable enough and offer higher RPM for faster performance.
4. I know you want to spend now and it's your choice, but if you have $2000 to spend now and another $1000 in about a year, $3000 is a lot to drop on what is only mid-tier CPU performance that will last maybe only 4-5 years at best. Perhaps you could look at an X99 system instead of Z97. It costs more but you get better futureproofing in that X99 just came out half a year ago and will be supported for several years to come, whereas Z97 is about to be supplanted by Z170 in less than a year. X99 is the newer high end enthusiast platform, it already supports DDR4 which won't be on the midrange consumer platform until Z170 is released, and X99 processors are what I'm recommending if you want to go another 7 years without needing to upgrade the processor.
The XFX PSUs look good but it doesn't look like there are many places you can get them in Australia. Does the 750W XTR sound good?
Not sure why I chose a red. The toshibas sound good.
Your X99 suggestion has thrown quite a spanner in the works. I'll have to do some research on them and might possibly revise my budget.
Not sure why I chose a red. The toshibas sound good.
Your X99 suggestion has thrown quite a spanner in the works.
I'll have to do some research on them and might possibly revise my budget.For the sake of 1ms, I'll happily knock £20 off the price. Thanks!
I thought I broke my pc when I almost dropped my motherboard when installing the Dark Rock 3 and then dropping my SSD OS drive on the floor. It fails to boot up most of them time, only gets to the windows loading and hangs or reboots, or gives random BSODs when Windows does load to desktop.
I think I've nailed the problem though, I took off the side panel and Windows booted up first time.
I noticed the fan on the Dark Rock 3 is slightly overhanging the side of the case (Antec P182). I think it's putting undue pressure on the mobo causing the crashes. So now I've just slid the panel on and not bothered locking it in place.
I'll need to replace the P182 as my gaming pc case, it is not friendly to potter around with and cable management's a nightmare (especially with a non-modular psu). Took me the best part of 3 hours to uncouple the motherboard to change the cooler, clean out the fans/case and put it back together.
I think I've nailed the problem though, I took off the side panel and Windows booted up first time.
I noticed the fan on the Dark Rock 3 is slightly overhanging the side of the case (Antec P182). I think it's putting undue pressure on the mobo causing the crashes. So now I've just slid the panel on and not bothered locking it in place.
I'll need to replace the P182 as my gaming pc case, it is not friendly to potter around with and cable management's a nightmare (especially with a non-modular psu). Took me the best part of 3 hours to uncouple the motherboard to change the cooler, clean out the fans/case and put it back together.
The XFX XTR is their higher end gold rated fully modular model. If the price is right, go for it.The XFX PSUs look good but it doesn't look like there are many places you can get them in Australia. Does the 750W XTR sound good?
Not sure why I chose a red. The toshibas sound good.
Your X99 suggestion has thrown quite a spanner in the works.
You may have to spend more for X99 parts, but you can fit it into your build now if you put off certain parts like the sound card and headphones for now. I'm not at my desktop right now, I'll see about putting together an example parts list for you later.
RealityCheque
Banned
Some advice needed on 140mm front case fans for my NZXT S340:
I'm looking at Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans as they seem very well regarded for being quiet and effective. Only downside is the price.
Are there any cheaper but still good quality alternatives that you would recommend or are the Noctua fans worth the outlay?
I'm looking at Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans as they seem very well regarded for being quiet and effective. Only downside is the price.
Are there any cheaper but still good quality alternatives that you would recommend or are the Noctua fans worth the outlay?
Check out the Corsair AF140mm fans. Optimized for air flow.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007RESGGC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427749934&sr=8-1&keywords=af140mm+performance&dpPl=1&dpID=51OhDjqbrcL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Edit: Also come with LEDs. You can select color.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F6S0XL2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427750315&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+af140+led&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51Vo25yiYCL&ref=plSrch
Rosewill Hyperboreas and the Phanteks 140mm are both pretty great products.
I'm looking at building a gaming PC that i would have plugged into the TV/Home-theater mostly. So i'm looking at small ITX cases that would fit a fullsize PSU and Graphics card (R9, GTX 970 etc).
Right now, i'm considering the Cool Master Elite 130 & Thermaltake Core X1. I did consider the Thermaltake Core V1, but it doesn't support cards up to 285mm (11.2″ in length.
Does anyone have any hands-on experience with either case, or perhaps other suggestion?
Right now, i'm considering the Cool Master Elite 130 & Thermaltake Core X1. I did consider the Thermaltake Core V1, but it doesn't support cards up to 285mm (11.2″
in length.Does anyone have any hands-on experience with either case, or perhaps other suggestion?
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