AstroZombie
Banned
I got confirmation that I'm receiving mine tomorrow. Will post impressions tomorrow night after work.
-
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Great! Are you a reviewer? Do you have any idea on the price point?
They were available on Newegg today for like one minute.
AstroZombie
Banned
No they went on sale last Wednesday on Acer's website. Went on backorder quickly. It was under $800 shipped.
Ratcabbage
Member
Hey GAF guys and gals,
I'm currently rocking an i5 760 with a GTX 760.
With GTA, The Witcher, Batman and a few other titles I'm looking forward to on the horizon, I was thinking of getting a GTX 970, but I'm worried my old-ass CPU will bottleneck my fancy new card. My goal is to crank games to ultra and get 1080p/60 without having to tweak anything.
Getting a new motherboard (old one is 1156) and CPU just bumped the cost of my little upgrade from ~$330 for just the GPU to ~$710 for the whole package.
So, I guess my questions are:
1. Will my i5 760 bottleneck the GTX 970?
2. If so, is it worth it to upgrade my motherboard/CPU/GPU now, or should I wait for whatever reason?
These are the parts I was looking at:
CPU
GPU
Motherboard
Thanks in advance!
I'm currently rocking an i5 760 with a GTX 760.
With GTA, The Witcher, Batman and a few other titles I'm looking forward to on the horizon, I was thinking of getting a GTX 970, but I'm worried my old-ass CPU will bottleneck my fancy new card. My goal is to crank games to ultra and get 1080p/60 without having to tweak anything.
Getting a new motherboard (old one is 1156) and CPU just bumped the cost of my little upgrade from ~$330 for just the GPU to ~$710 for the whole package.
So, I guess my questions are:
1. Will my i5 760 bottleneck the GTX 970?
2. If so, is it worth it to upgrade my motherboard/CPU/GPU now, or should I wait for whatever reason?
These are the parts I was looking at:
CPU
GPU
Motherboard
Thanks in advance!
The GTX 970 may be bottlenecked slightly by a stock i5 760. Look into overclocking your processor if you don't want to play an extra couple hundred dollars.
Dreams-Visions
Member
MODMIC 4.0 IS ON SALE FOR NEXT 48 HOURS - $35 SHIPPED TO US
https://www.madorc.com/deals/antlion-modmic-4-a
You get a code from them you use on the modmic website. Absolutely great mic and best of the models. IF you don't know what it is, you attach it to your headphones and it has a magnetic clip you can use to take it on or off.
Disclaimer: I've tested the 2.0 2.3 3.0 and 4.0 from them and provided feedback.
I own 2 of these.
I can't recommend it enough over a traditional "gaming" headset. With a decent pair of headphones, you're winning. No, you've won. Accept no shitty gaming headset substitutes. You won't find a better mic, and you can always attach one to a new pair of headphones. I'd buy another one if I didn't already have one.
You're tempting me so much. I have a pair of ATH-M50's that I love but it'd be so nice to have a mic too.
Going by your avatar, you're in west Virginia? If you can drive to the Fairfax Microcenter location to buy in-store, you could save a lot on the motherboard and CPU (essentially the motherboard costs only about $50).
What's your overall budget? Here's a price-to-performance-oriented parts list to start with that should compare favorably to the parts list you had in mind.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($49.99)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($91.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba Product SeriesT01ACA 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($72.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $641.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-31 00:37 EDT-0400
I'd say you probably don't even need thermal paste, it's only a difference of around 2 degrees or so if I remember correctly from that thermal paste roundup review. The case could change depending on what graphics card you may want to get.
You sure you need a DVD drive? Windows 7/8/8.1 can be officially installed via USB (guide slightly outdated).
Windows 7/8.1 licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for $20 or less. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are unapproved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement to be clear, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it, although it's somewhat unlikely, usually only if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months.
Thank you to both for the information. Got slammed with work and just got a chance to check back.
That PCPartPicker website is slick.
Dreams-Visions
Member
Yoooo...
If you have a Corsair K70/K95...
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=139027
this shit is AMAZEBALLS. I'm in awe at the awesomeness.
You'll be a happy man if you'd like to do any voice communication in your games. headsets are by and large shit and would be a serious audio quality downgrade from your M50's. That's just a fact. Most sound like $30 headphones that you wouldn't want to listen to music or movies on with someone else's ears, let alone your own.
FWIW, you can also use it with your PS4 and Xbox One with a $5 adapter.
If you have a Corsair K70/K95...
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=139027
this shit is AMAZEBALLS. I'm in awe at the awesomeness.
You'll be a happy man if you'd like to do any voice communication in your games. headsets are by and large shit and would be a serious audio quality downgrade from your M50's. That's just a fact. Most sound like $30 headphones that you wouldn't want to listen to music or movies on with someone else's ears, let alone your own.
FWIW, you can also use it with your PS4 and Xbox One with a $5 adapter.
I don't... but I just bought it anyway cause there's no better time to start than the present.
Plus it's getting me ready for GTA5 haha.
Dreams-Visions
Member
LOL!
Well...hmm. As you say, no better time to start talking to people like the present.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Thanks for the reply - this situation has 5 HDDs all next to each other, while there is plenty of room in the 5.25 bays. I wasn't thinking of fans - the airflow in the case is good already - but more like a 5.25 HDD adapter that is like a big hunk of metal that can distribute heat away from the HDD it's holding.
I just wish there was a more clear cut answer as to how future proof a 4GB 960 really is. Currently I'd say it fares as good as any other 4GB card in terms of a notable boost in performance from its 2GB counterpart. How much that matters a year or two from now I'm not sure. The optimist in me wants to think they made it 128-bit knowing the card makes up for it elsewhere (i.e. memory clock)
No, not really, nothing like that exists.
Dreams-Visions
Member
KEYBOARD DANCE PARTY!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjA4icLaKWk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03Ve7-_0lkE
<3 K-series keyboards
just set this up on mine. so good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjA4icLaKWk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03Ve7-_0lkE
<3 K-series keyboards
just set this up on mine. so good.
Looks like you get a code to redeem the product/discount on the manufacturers website.
I should make a thread I guess, didn't want to since it might seem a bit shilly, but there's nothing out there that is like this and is actually a good product.
Also note while there were downsides to the 2.0/2.3/3.0 the 4.0 addresses all the issues (noise isolation, warmth, bending, mute clip, length, counter weight, solder quality) except wire clips, but those are coming / you can buy them for $1 I think.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Now that I have time to look around, it seems like there are a few things:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817121909
http://www.legitreviews.com/ultra-aluminum-hard-drive-cooler-review_606
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118215
I'm not sure if they'd be worth it though. User reviews are hit and miss, and I can't really find any reviews on many enthusiast sites.
Probably because it doesn't make much sense today. A single 120mm fan would keep 5 HDDs under 35c. Good hard drives with less platters will run much cooler too.
What Hard drives are you running and have you used HWMonitor to look at the drive temperatures?
After playing only on consoles for the last year, my good ole gaming rig has been dusting down.
Now I want to get back into the game. Just ordered a Fractal Design R5 (SURPRISE, I KNOW). I don't really need a new case, I just like fiddling with this stuff.
Also ordered two Noctua fans for my Corsair h100.
The important parts consists of a 2500k @ 4,5Ghz, a midrange SSD and 8GB of wild rams.
I sold my 770 about a year ago cause I intented to upgrade. Never got that far...
Until Witcher 3 comes out, I can't recall any games I really want to play on PC (I think?)
Soooo, what graphics card to buy? Wait until 980TI comes out, and prices drop? Buy a used 780TI or 970 right now? Get a 290x for cheap on the used market?
Edit: Also I need a kickass wireless mouse.
Buying a new 970 gets me a voucher for Witcher 3, but this game can be bought for the cheap anyway, no?
The Norwegian Kroner and dollar exhange rate is hilariously high atm, so everything is fucking expensive..
HALP
Edit: Also, I need a kickass wireless mouse.
Edit2: This beast of a machine is gonna to to the living room, so I will mainly be gaming at 1080p.
Maybe I should just buy a 970?
Now I want to get back into the game. Just ordered a Fractal Design R5 (SURPRISE, I KNOW). I don't really need a new case, I just like fiddling with this stuff.
Also ordered two Noctua fans for my Corsair h100.
The important parts consists of a 2500k @ 4,5Ghz, a midrange SSD and 8GB of wild rams.
I sold my 770 about a year ago cause I intented to upgrade. Never got that far...
Until Witcher 3 comes out, I can't recall any games I really want to play on PC (I think?)
Soooo, what graphics card to buy? Wait until 980TI comes out, and prices drop? Buy a used 780TI or 970 right now? Get a 290x for cheap on the used market?
Edit: Also I need a kickass wireless mouse.
Buying a new 970 gets me a voucher for Witcher 3, but this game can be bought for the cheap anyway, no?
The Norwegian Kroner and dollar exhange rate is hilariously high atm, so everything is fucking expensive..
HALP
Edit: Also, I need a kickass wireless mouse.
Edit2: This beast of a machine is gonna to to the living room, so I will mainly be gaming at 1080p.
Maybe I should just buy a 970?
RealityCheque
Banned
Just a little advice needed:
Going with i5 4690k, GTX 970, case is NZXT S340, and need to choose a motherboard. I want to leave myself the option of overclocking if I want to but dont need SLI etc. so Im looking for a mobo that is decent quality, suitable but hopefully be a good price as well.
Also do I really need a wifi card? Its going to be hardlined to the router and I may do some in-home streaming (via powerline plugs) so cant think of any real reason for me to need add the expense that Ethernet already takes care of.
Any suggestions and advice would be great. Thanks.
Going with i5 4690k, GTX 970, case is NZXT S340, and need to choose a motherboard. I want to leave myself the option of overclocking if I want to but dont need SLI etc. so Im looking for a mobo that is decent quality, suitable but hopefully be a good price as well.
Also do I really need a wifi card? Its going to be hardlined to the router and I may do some in-home streaming (via powerline plugs) so cant think of any real reason for me to need add the expense that Ethernet already takes care of.
Any suggestions and advice would be great. Thanks.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
3 WD greens (2TB) and 2 WD enterprise HDDs (4TB), with an SSD OS drive. I can see their temps/SMART data using ASRock's monitoring software, and they're all idling at ~24 degrees, but I haven't done any lengthy sustained data transfers on this system yet.
It's more like I want to use the 5.25" bay space since there's nothing in it, and if I'm going to slap any 3.5 HDDs in a 5.25" adapter thing, it might be nice if they also doubled as a heatsink.
I'm building a new PC and I got the Windows 8.1 64 bit OEM version and looking into installing it off a USB memory stick.
Is mkenyon's guide in the OP still valid?
I'm getting a bit lost trying to find the an 8.1 ISO and in general what to do... Windows site is very confusing!
Is mkenyon's guide in the OP still valid?
I'm getting a bit lost trying to find the an 8.1 ISO and in general what to do... Windows site is very confusing!
Hmm, I was wrong then, they did exist. Those appear to be older and all discontinued accessories though, so they seem to be from before my time and are no longer available for sale. I might even go so far as to say they were gimmicky accessories that died out when it was clear they were of limited use. If you really think you need hard drive cooling, then I'd just opt for the hard drive cage with the fan.
If you already have adequate airflow, I don't really see the need for any extra cooling in the first place. A 24 degree idle temperature is very good to begin with. A dedicated heatsink for each hard drive seems costly and takes up space, while a single fan will cool multiple drives at once effectively. If you were worried about noise, I'd just turn off the included fan - you stated that airflow was adequate, and the cages offer good ventilation. The truth is that hard drives rarely get very hot unless the case they're contained in doesn't have proper ventilation in the first place.
Use this guide and refer to this link, they both lead to official ISO downloads from the official Microsoft website.
You're in the US? I recommend these, in order from least to most expensive:
ASRock Z97 Pro3 for $81 after $15 rebate - the cheapest model I'd recommend, comes with all the basics nailed down
ASRock Z97 Pro4 for $97 after $10 rebate - a step up from the one above, it adds some extras like an M.2 slot and slightly more robust overclocking support (6 phase VS 4 phase)
Asus Z97-E for $109 after $20 rebate - Not a lot of difference between this Asus model and the ASRock Z97 Pro4, but some people (including me) think Asus have higher QC standards and better software than ASRock.
According to recent news, the GTX 980 will handle Witcher 3 at maximum settings at 1080p with 60FPS. Although rumors say there may be a GM200 cut down model (the "GTX 980 Ti") on the way, such news is premature and I wouldn't wait for that, you could end up stalling your PC upgrades for several more months.
I am not really familiar with Norwegian prices, but you should check the prices of the AMD R9 290 and 290X, they will offer similar performance possibly for a lower price than the GTX 970.
Thanks. Had a skim thru those guides and they make a lot of sense!
Hey RGM79,
What do you think of this X99 build?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($799.00 @ CPL Online)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($85.00 @ IJK)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($329.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($304.00 @ IJK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($130.00 @ IJK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($519.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($109.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: XFX XTR 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($195.00 @ CPL Online)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-209DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($82.00 @ IJK)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($209.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Mouse: SteelSeries Rival Wired Optical Mouse ($65.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $2975.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-01 21:54 EST+1100
Both the CPU and mobo are really the only ones on sale so you can basically take 20% the price listed there. I will purchase the RAM somewhere else. So just a few more questions:
Are you confident that something like this will last me 7 years (at least processor-wise)? That would be amazing (my Q6600 is struggling a fair bit for a while now). I'm happy with 5 years as it is.
What RAM speed do you recommend? I kinda of picked 2400 out of thin air as it looked to be in my price range and was popular.
Do you think it's a good idea for me to still stick with mATX or do you recommend I go ATX. The next mobo up is ASRock X99 Extreme4. Will I have any issues with noise or cooling?
Do you think I should get a new monitor now? I'm looking for something with 144hz and Gsync (in that priority). Is there new tech among the horizon that I should wait for? I'm perfectly fine using my old 22" 1080p monitor at the moment.
What do you think of this X99 build?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($799.00 @ CPL Online)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($85.00 @ IJK)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($329.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($304.00 @ IJK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($130.00 @ IJK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($519.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($109.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: XFX XTR 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($195.00 @ CPL Online)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-209DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($82.00 @ IJK)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($209.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Mouse: SteelSeries Rival Wired Optical Mouse ($65.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $2975.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-01 21:54 EST+1100
Both the CPU and mobo are really the only ones on sale so you can basically take 20% the price listed there. I will purchase the RAM somewhere else. So just a few more questions:
Are you confident that something like this will last me 7 years (at least processor-wise)? That would be amazing (my Q6600 is struggling a fair bit for a while now). I'm happy with 5 years as it is.
What RAM speed do you recommend? I kinda of picked 2400 out of thin air as it looked to be in my price range and was popular.
Do you think it's a good idea for me to still stick with mATX or do you recommend I go ATX. The next mobo up is ASRock X99 Extreme4. Will I have any issues with noise or cooling?
Do you think I should get a new monitor now? I'm looking for something with 144hz and Gsync (in that priority). Is there new tech among the horizon that I should wait for? I'm perfectly fine using my old 22" 1080p monitor at the moment.
Yeah, I can get a 290x for about $150 cheaper than what a 970 will set me back.
Maybe this is the best way to go until 980 TI and/or 390x find it's way to the market.
RealityCheque
Banned
Thanks. Also spotted this one and was wondering if it was a decent choice also. It's a fair bit cheaper and I'm curious as to how it stacks up to your suggestions above?
Thanks for the very generous help and advice from people on this forum, I finally bought all the components of my first gaming PC (listed here, though I spent a bit less than these prices thanks to a nearby Micro Center and a few other deals).
Just wanted to abuse everyone's generous nature and see if you had any advice on the monitor/keyboard/mouse. I wasn't thinking about going too expensive on any of those (I can always upgrade later once I've recovered from monetary damage incurred by the rest of this PC).
For the monitor, I was thinking about going in the $100-$150 range (though I'd certainly take less), with this ASUS as the current leading contender. Any thoughts?
For the keyboard/mouse, while I would love a cool mechanical keyboard or something that lights up, I might just go super cheap for now and get something nicer down the line. Especially since I have little kids who yet to grasp the concept of "gentle" or "don't smash."
Once that's done, all I have to do is put together my first PC even though I have no idea what I'm doing. That should be easy, right?
Thanks again for all your help.
Just wanted to abuse everyone's generous nature and see if you had any advice on the monitor/keyboard/mouse. I wasn't thinking about going too expensive on any of those (I can always upgrade later once I've recovered from monetary damage incurred by the rest of this PC).
For the monitor, I was thinking about going in the $100-$150 range (though I'd certainly take less), with this ASUS as the current leading contender. Any thoughts?
For the keyboard/mouse, while I would love a cool mechanical keyboard or something that lights up, I might just go super cheap for now and get something nicer down the line. Especially since I have little kids who yet to grasp the concept of "gentle" or "don't smash."
Once that's done, all I have to do is put together my first PC even though I have no idea what I'm doing. That should be easy, right?
Thanks again for all your help.
This overall looks like an odd build to me.
You are looking to SLI a 970 even with the "3.5GB" issue?
The RAM is difficult on X99, the lower speeds are hampered due to high latencies compared to DDR3, but still have more overall bandwidth.
Sound card for? Whats your audio equipment?
Blu Ray player for? Blu Ray movie playback on PC is pretty clunky. Requires payware.
You could probably get SLI 980 rig today using a 4790K and a Noctua D14 to overclock to the sky. Delid would be even better.
I got the Acer G227HQL which is a 21.5" LCD IPS-Type panel. Its $129 on Amazon. It's arriving tomorrow so I'll let you know how it goes. THere's a 23" and 24" for $10 or $20 more. Seems like its got reasonable reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N913M0W/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Bright-Light
Member
Hey Guys, Need some advice.
I ordererd all of my components last week and they were delivered today, i was going to start building tomorrow butsomebody has thrown a spanner into the works. They told me that a 550w power supply is too low for an i5, 970 evga combo. Are they right?
I ordererd all of my components last week and they were delivered today, i was going to start building tomorrow butsomebody has thrown a spanner into the works. They told me that a 550w power supply is too low for an i5, 970 evga combo. Are they right?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
I remember the parts recommended for you. So no they are not right, it is enough.
It is not enough for SLI but more than capable for your rig.
Bright-Light
Member
Thanks for the reply, and also thank you very much for your advice on what to buy. I pretty much bought exaclty what was on your list. Will post back with pics and impressions when im done. Again, thanks.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Happy to hear and looking forward to pics.
+1 to all of these thoughts. Except for the D14 cause I hate giant air coolers, but understand and respect those who do prefer them as making objectively better choices than me
The 5930K seems to be the proc to go for if you have something like dual GM200 or 390X cards in a rig. Otherwise, the 5820K is perfectly suitable with fewer PCI-E lanes. In both cases though, as a strictly gaming rig, the 4970K is still the obvious choice, as you get so much more for your money.
Hi Guys,
I built my upgrade and got things flowing nicely until I got home from work last night. "Windows has recovered from a blue screen error" (I don't remember exact text)
It referred BC Code 1a which seems to point to memory faults. The dump file pointed to a ntoskrnl.exe. Google pointed me to possible RAM issues, so I ran memtest and it found 37000 errors by test 7. (30 mins or so)
By running memtest for each stick separately and in different dimm slots on the mobo, I found that one of the sticks was popping the errors and the other was fine.
I checked the speed and timings in my bios and ensured they were set to auto (i hadn't OCed or anything). One odd thing is that memtest was reporting different speed and timings than the BIOS was showing and my RAM is.
Actual: 2400, 11,19,19,31.
Memtest: 1866, 10, 21, 21, 29
Is that normal? I haven't found anything in searches.
Could this be related to an incompatibility between my RAM and motherboard? Or will it just be a bad stick?
I have MSI Z97 PC MATE and G.SKILL Sniper 2 x 8GB DDR32400 C11 on Windows 7
Thank you to anyone with insight.
I built my upgrade and got things flowing nicely until I got home from work last night. "Windows has recovered from a blue screen error" (I don't remember exact text)
It referred BC Code 1a which seems to point to memory faults. The dump file pointed to a ntoskrnl.exe. Google pointed me to possible RAM issues, so I ran memtest and it found 37000 errors by test 7. (30 mins or so)
By running memtest for each stick separately and in different dimm slots on the mobo, I found that one of the sticks was popping the errors and the other was fine.
I checked the speed and timings in my bios and ensured they were set to auto (i hadn't OCed or anything). One odd thing is that memtest was reporting different speed and timings than the BIOS was showing and my RAM is.
Actual: 2400, 11,19,19,31.
Memtest: 1866, 10, 21, 21, 29
Is that normal? I haven't found anything in searches.
Could this be related to an incompatibility between my RAM and motherboard? Or will it just be a bad stick?
I have MSI Z97 PC MATE and G.SKILL Sniper 2 x 8GB DDR32400 C11 on Windows 7
Thank you to anyone with insight.
Felix Lighter
Member
I just bought the modmic a few weeks ago. Just my luck. Oh well, it is very very nice.
Even with 1 error I would RMA. 37000 is for sure bad stick(s) or slot.
Try upping the voltage to 1.6V if it isn't already and staying at 1866. RAM running slower than label is by default so your computer boots/certification bullshit. If it's still bad RMA time.
I've gotten the process started for an RMA. The voltage was set at 1.625 I think? It was a default, I didn't change it. I just want to make sure that it couldn't be a separate issue from just a bad RAM stick like me screwing up settings or incompatibility.
Getting so many errors seemed unusual, though it was definitely one of the sticks only even when tested in the same slot.
Thanks!
So I built my PC last year December and got the corsair cx600m. For some time I had noticed this rattling sound and don't know where it was coming from but after getting some fans and a fan controller I now know it's from the PSU the only noisy part left well expect my led corsair fan . Anyways I just wanted to know if this noise is normal.
I have a Fractal design arc mini r2 which has rubber feet in the psu area like so -
Fan facing the PSU exhaust - https://instaud.io/6if
Fan facing upwards - https://instaud.io/6ig
Willing to get a better quality PSU tbh it's just that I wouldn't know what to do with the corsair if I did and I don't want to lose all my money on it.
Thanks Gaf.
well expect my led corsair fan . Anyways I just wanted to know if this noise is normal. I have a Fractal design arc mini r2 which has rubber feet in the psu area like so -
Fan facing the PSU exhaust - https://instaud.io/6if
Fan facing upwards - https://instaud.io/6ig
Willing to get a better quality PSU tbh it's just that I wouldn't know what to do with the corsair if I did and I don't want to lose all my money on it.
Thanks Gaf.
I'd go with a used 290x. You can get one for 2000kr ($249) here http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/annonse?finnkode=56327050&searchclickthrough=true&searchQuery=290x If youre willing to spend 1000kr more you can get a MSI 970. The 970's include Witcher 3 for free so thats why its only a 1000kr increase instead of 1490kr
Both the 290x and 970 will be more than enough for 1080p.
Also for wireless mouse Id get the G602 http://www.prisguide.no/produkt/logitech-g602-193676
Overall, I'm in agreement with Liljoka's sentiments. I'll revise your build for you, and list reasons why I changed parts under the new build list.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($529.00 @ CPL Online)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 CPU Cooler ($92.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($329.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($331.00 @ IJK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($130.00 @ IJK)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card ($779.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($109.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($115.00 @ CPL Online)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDC-207DBK Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($56.00 @ CPL Online)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($209.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Mouse: SteelSeries Rival Wired Optical Mouse ($65.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $2893.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-02 07:35 EST+1100
When considering price to performance, I'd opt for the cheaper 5820K instead of the 5930K. They are nearly the same aside from a tiny 0.2GHz clock speed difference and the 5930K having more robust support for triple/quad graphics cards.
For a few dollars more, the dual tower Noctua NH-D14 ($92) will be more effective than the single tower NH-U12S even when using low noise and fan speed adaptors.
I'd opt for 2666MHz RAM, it's a bit more forward looking than 2400MHz and despite costing $30 more, will fit in your build easily after the price savings with the other parts.
The graphics card is a tougher issue to tackle. I wouldn't go for the GTX 970 now after the 3.5GB memory issue came to light, although it is currently still a great card for 1080p gaming. The issue is that in the future, games may go over the 3.5GB VRAM usage and then the GTX 970 wouldn't perform very well, making it a bit of a risky long term investment for gaming, especially at higher resolutions that will take up more VRAM. I put a GTX 980 in there as a placeholder for now. It looks like you have a few choices here:
1. Instead of the GTX 970, I'd recommend something like the R9 290/290X 4GB models ($380~500) which don't have any memory issues and will be perfectly fine at high-ish settings at 1080p for the next few years. The AMD cards are well priced for their performance which isn't too far from the GTX 970. There's enough money left in your budget to get two R9 290X cards which would perform exceedingly well at 1080p and pretty well at 1440p. That said, not all games work with twin graphic cards, and not all scale well (two graphics cards doesn't mean twice the performance). I'd also recommend the 850 watt power supply listed below if you want to go that route as the R9 290/290X are more power hungry than the GTX 970/980.
2. Go with a single GTX 980 (~$700). Greater performance than any other single graphics card (except Titan X and R9 295X2), but the performance isn't THAT big of an increase over the GTX 970 or R9 290X. Not so great when you consider price to performance, but a single graphics card does offer more reliable framerate and less heat/power issues than twin graphics cards. The GTX 980 is also a great overclocker for good gains of up to 20% more performance according to HardOCP and Anandtech. In the future you'd also have the option of picking up a second GTX 980, maybe after a price drop.
3. Wait for the new AMD R9 3XX line which according to rumors is due to be released around June. Even if you don't prefer AMD, Nvidia may respond to the new R9 390X by cutting the GTX 980's price or announcing a higher end graphics card (the GM200-cut or the so-called GTX 980 Ti).
$200 for the XFX power supply is really expensive and 850 watts is a bit excessive for your needs. For even twin GTX 980s, you still only need 750 watts and 750 watts will probably be enough for any future single graphics card. I found the EVGA Supernova G2 750 watt model ($145) to substitute into your build for the same level of quality, it is also gold rated and fully modular. If you want to save even more money, there is the EVGA Supernova B2 750 watt model ($115) instead which is bronze rated and semi-modular, but no less worse when it comes to quality. If you really want 850 watts for the future, then consider the EVGA Supernova G2 850 watt model ($175) which is still cheaper than the XFX.
If you want a blu-ray drive just for watching movies, then you can save some money with the slightly lower end Pioneer BDC-207DBK ($56) which only reads blu-ray discs and does not write to them. Both of those drives do not come with blu-ray movie player software, you will either need to use this free VLC addon or buy playback software.
Now, onto your questions:
Yeah, I'm more or less confident that the processor can stretch to 7 years, especially with some overclocking which you can do later a few years down the line. To put the Intel enthusiast i7 line into perspective, we have people coming into this thread with the 7 year old i7 920 processor who are looking for new PCs now. The i7 920 was the entry level enthusiast processor back then 7 years ago, like the 5820K processor is now. Of course, after 5 years you can upgrade sooner if you like, seeing how long this PC lasts you. Edit: Mkenyon is right about the i7 4790K also being an option. I still think it's silly to spend around $3000 AUD on an i5 4690K build, but a i7 4790K build would be OK if you were looking to maximize your budget for graphics cards like twin future R9 390X or 980 Ti, just not as futureproof due to DDR3, but I suppose performance wise it's fine for the money.
I feel that 2400MHz is somewhat lower end for DDR4, it's only one step above the entry level 2133MHz and considering that in the future higher speed RAM usually becomes cheaper, I usually try to recommend 2666MHz or better when considering that in the future you may add more RAM, although most users currently rarely need more than 16GB. I'm thinking that way to avoid future scenarios like when we have people in this thread with older 1333MHz DDR3 RAM wondering if they should just add same speed RAM or replace all of their old slower RAM with new faster RAM. In all honesty, the performance impact in real life daily use is not that much, so you can go for the cheaper 2400MHz if you life.
As for the motherboard and case size, you said you were interested in portability, so mATX would be preferred if you needed to move the PC around a lot. It does limit future expandability, but you should be able to fit twin graphics cards on that motherboard as well as the sound card, you would need to install the sound card in the middle slot.
I'd hold on to the 1080p monitor for now if you don't have any issues with it, but that's just me, I've never used a 1440p or better display.
Whew, that was a longer post than I usually make. Hope it's not too overbearing.
Edit: Here's what the i7 4790K based build would look like.
Has a 3 year warranty. RMA. Sell RMA unit.So I built my PC last year December and got the corsair cx600m. For some time I had noticed this rattling sound and don't know where it was coming from but after getting some fans and a fan controller I now know it's from the PSU the only noisy part left
I have a Fractal design arc mini r2 which has rubber feet in the psu area like so -
Fan facing the PSU exhaust - https://instaud.io/6if
Fan facing upwards - https://instaud.io/6ig
Willing to get a better quality PSU tbh it's just that I wouldn't know what to do with the corsair if I did and I don't want to lose all my money on it.
Thanks Gaf.
opticalmace
Member
Eh, amazon reviews look pretty good: http://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Ergonomic-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B00AAS888S
So I built my PC last year December and got the corsair cx600m. For some time I had noticed this rattling sound and don't know where it was coming from but after getting some fans and a fan controller I now know it's from the PSU the only noisy part left
I have a Fractal design arc mini r2 which has rubber feet in the psu area like so -
Fan facing the PSU exhaust - https://instaud.io/6if
Fan facing upwards - https://instaud.io/6ig
Willing to get a better quality PSU tbh it's just that I wouldn't know what to do with the corsair if I did and I don't want to lose all my money on it.
Thanks Gaf.
Corsair CX line is at worst crap, and at best decently average. A small proportion of 1 to 3 star user reviews for the CX600M on both Newegg and Amazon mention that there are quality control issues with the fan. I'd say you should go for a better quality power supply as well.
The CX600M should still be under warranty like Hazaro says, so contact customer support. Take a new unit if they offer it.. and then sell it, maybe?
How long have you had the headset? Click as in mechanical clicking, or a clicking noise that the microphone picks up? And you've never noticed a click before?
My Sennheiser PC333D's microphone will automatically mute and unmute when I move the microphone up and down, and there is a slight mechanical click when that happens. That is a feature that your PC363D also seems to have, according to the official product page.
Oh, you're in the UK? That changes things, then. That Gigabyte GA-Z97P-D3 looks alright going by the specs, but that model seems to be lesser known and the lack of user and professional reviews put me off of recommending it. Alternative choices from other brands would be the MSI Z97 PC Mate for £62 which has a higher number of positive user reviews from Amazon US, Newegg US, and Amazon UK, and the Asus Z97-P for £70 which has fewer but still proportionately positive reviews.
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