Strafebogey
Member
If I were you, I'd take the G2 for that peace of mind.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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If I were you, I'd take the G2 for that peace of mind.
roadrunn3r
Member
Associate Windows 10 licenses with your Microsoft ID Should be useful to people upgrading CPU/MOBO without losing the license.
What's a good 750w-850w PSU, GAF?
I have a EVGA 850w P2 PSU and I believe that it just died or is in the process of dying. PC reboots after a few minutes of using an application that puts it around 35-60% load. This is an RMA unit after the first unit died less than 2 months in. Same exact problems on the first unit. So yeah, I don't want to go with them again.
Thinking of going with the Corsair AX/AXi or a Seasonic (X/Plat). Not sure what else. Leaning a bit more on Corsair in case I need yet another RMA. That's one thing I kinda liked from EVGA: At least in the first RMA they were flawless.
I have a EVGA 850w P2 PSU and I believe that it just died or is in the process of dying. PC reboots after a few minutes of using an application that puts it around 35-60% load. This is an RMA unit after the first unit died less than 2 months in. Same exact problems on the first unit. So yeah, I don't want to go with them again.
Thinking of going with the Corsair AX/AXi or a Seasonic (X/Plat). Not sure what else. Leaning a bit more on Corsair in case I need yet another RMA. That's one thing I kinda liked from EVGA: At least in the first RMA they were flawless.
RascarCapat
Neo Member
Hi GAF,
I'm thinking of upgrading my PC but I am not sure what to change first.
Here is what I have :
Power supply : PC POWER AND COOLING SILENCER MK III SERIES 750 WATT 80PLUS GO
RAM : Kingston Hyper X PnP - 8GB Kit* (2x4GB) - DDR3 1866MHz CL11 DIMM
Drive : WD Black 2TO
Motherboard : ASUS P8Z77-V LK
CPU : INTEL i5-3570K
Heatsink : Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Case : Bitfenix Shinobi USB 3.0 white
SSD : Samsung - SSD Série 840 - 250 Go
GPU : GeForce GTX 760 DIRECT CU II OC
I was thinking of changing the CPU first and then the GPU.
How does that sound ?
Also I had a few practical questions. I am overcloaking my present CPU, do I have to go back to my mobo and reset it to factory setting before I change CPU ?
Also I have installed CPU and heatsinks before but never changed it, should I guess I will have to wash the heatsink first before glueing it to the new CPU. What should I use to wash it ?
Edit : Actually I'm just seeing that my mobo will not be compatible with new cpu's socket. So I guess I'm good to change that as well.
At this point should I just build a new pc ?
Thanks in advance
I'm thinking of upgrading my PC but I am not sure what to change first.
Here is what I have :
Power supply : PC POWER AND COOLING SILENCER MK III SERIES 750 WATT 80PLUS GO
RAM : Kingston Hyper X PnP - 8GB Kit* (2x4GB) - DDR3 1866MHz CL11 DIMM
Drive : WD Black 2TO
Motherboard : ASUS P8Z77-V LK
CPU : INTEL i5-3570K
Heatsink : Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Case : Bitfenix Shinobi USB 3.0 white
SSD : Samsung - SSD Série 840 - 250 Go
GPU : GeForce GTX 760 DIRECT CU II OC
I was thinking of changing the CPU first and then the GPU.
How does that sound ?
Also I had a few practical questions. I am overcloaking my present CPU, do I have to go back to my mobo and reset it to factory setting before I change CPU ?
Also I have installed CPU and heatsinks before but never changed it, should I guess I will have to wash the heatsink first before glueing it to the new CPU. What should I use to wash it ?
Edit : Actually I'm just seeing that my mobo will not be compatible with new cpu's socket. So I guess I'm good to change that as well.
At this point should I just build a new pc ?
Thanks in advance
roadrunn3r
Member
If you are playing at 60fps max, just overclock that Ivy Bridge i5 and only upgrade the GPU. Upgrading the CPU would require almost a completely new build unless you just go for a 3770k.
As for the GPU it basically depends on your budget. You can get a GTX 1070 now for 400-450$+ or wait a week for an AMD RX 480 at 199-250$ (which still should roughly double your performance)
Also you could get another 8GB of RAM, just keep in mind it's DDR3 so it will be unusable if you decide to upgrade to a new architecture in the future. (DDR4)
I mean a proper vertical mouse, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIFNTMC/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Anyone can vouch for them? Got any recommendations?
Strafebogey
Member
Cant go wrong with either of them. I had a Seasonic X1250 before I moved up to Corsair AX1500i, both worked flawlessly under heavy load.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($197.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($134.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Kingston Savage 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($48.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Hitachi Travelstar 1TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Silverstone ML08B-H HTPC Case ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Silverstone 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($116.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Silverstone SOD02B DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Other: Slimline Sata to Sata Power Adapter ($11.47)
Total: $858.18
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-23 07:47 EDT-0400
Changed the RAM to 3000, mobo to a z170 chipset so if you ever want to upgrade the CPU you can. Everything else is fine.
Yes, and the new 1151 socket should last awhile. You really should think about just getting a new computer. Start off with a max budget and go from there. We're more than happy to help you spec one out. You'll be good to go on case, SSD, PSU and cooler.
So just a new Mobo, RAM, CPU and GPU if you want.
- Reviews out 29th June
- Availability after that
Sounds daft.
Upgrade the GPU and overclock the CPU.
Get an i7 3770k 2nd hand if it's a good price.
Keihart
Member
Oh, that's cool, i'm planning on asking a friend to buy the CPU, MOBO and GPU on NA while she's visiting, i'll save a lot of cash if i'm able to. As an example, the i7 6700 is at roughly 540 USD on my local store and only 298 USD on Amazon.
I hope i can get the RX480 too...I wonder if all that will fit on her bag tho
Edit: Just notifced that the I7 doesn't come with the fan or thermal paste, that's new to me, ha!
I'm an expert
Formerly worldrevolution. The only reason I am nice to anyone else is to avoid being banned.
Just wanted to say thanks, I had no idea there was a scaling option built in that's independent of the resolution. Is this something new with Win10 or was it always there..? Never had to use it. Anyway, thank you again.
If it's a g-sync/freesync monitor, choose 139 and let the monitor do the work.
Oh, that's cool, i'm planning on asking a friend to buy the CPU, MOBO and GPU on NA while she's visiting, i'll save a lot of cash if i'm able to. As an example, the i7 6700 is at roughly 540 USD on my local store and only 298 USD on Amazon.
I hope i can get the RX480 too...I wonder if all that will fit on her bag tho
Edit: Just notifced that the I7 doesn't come with the fan or thermal paste, that's new to me, ha!
It does, it's the K versions that don't come with that stuff.
opticalmace
Member
Are you overclocking anything? What are your specs? I'd be surprised if the PSU conked out twice in a row like that. Could be something else..
hm, I really dont notice any of its benefits then. Frame rate changes in Witcher 3 for example(like going from 60 to 40) still feel drastic. I thought Gsync was supposed to smoothen it out?
Darryl M R
Member
I'm looking at different cases from the Dan A4-SFX and the Ncase M1 for a small build. I think the A4-SFX would look nicer and possibly have better airflow but it is untested.
This is from Durante in the G-Sync thread:
Witcher 3 is probably not a very good test case, since that game has large inherent framepacing spikes which G-sync can't really fully mitigate.
Regardless of that, if you had no issue with tearing at 60 Hz without V-sync you are clearly an alien anyway
EDIT: There's actually a solution. Try this?
Depends what are you gonna do with it.
I have not seen or heard that before but I would say its good for some casual gaming and browsing, but for any more than casual/slow gaming nop.
Not for gaming, stricly for work, mostly using PowerPoint, Excel, Word and browsing the web.
Yappadappadu
Member
Hopefully that comes true.
While I plan to build a new computer this year (currently on a i5 750 with GTX 570 and Windows 7), I might prefer to wait for the release of kabylake CPU's due to native HEVC 10 bit decoding. The free Windows 10 update offer ends in one month, so it would be great great if I could secure the update by installing it on my old PC/mainboard.
Build is somewhat old.
5820k OC to 4.2GHz
MSI Gaming 7
4GBx8 DDR4
SSD + Bunch of HDDs
970GTX
Corsair H100i
Soundblaster Z
Corsair 760t
Cable management and airflow is not an issue.
I got the PSU back in November of 2015. It broke down in early January.
Basically the system would shut down when playing TF2 and having a few other apps on. The system and that application didn't exactly stress the PSU. During that week I experienced a lot of reboots under similar conditions/system stress levels. Switched out the PSU and everything worked fine. RMAd the PSU and I didn't have an issue until this week when it rebooted. Same conditions again. Switched out the PSU and it's currently working. I haven't made any changes at all to the system hardware or software during all this time. The system has been rock solid outside of the PSU screwing up the first time and the PSU acting up again right now.
Quite tired of playing TF2 right now to be honest. Been trying to get a reboot and have failed so far. So yeah, I think it's probably the PSU again.
Keihart
Member
wich version should i get instead? or is it better to just get that one and buy the heatsink and stuff?
6700K has an unlocked multiplier for overclocking and does not come with the stock heatsink/fan.The base clock is also higher at 4.0 rather than the 3.4 on the non-k.
It really depends on the motherboard you plan on buying, and whether you want to overclock.
If we are comparing prices right now, the difference is $65 between the K and non-K on Amazon. Keep in mind, you would also have to factor in a cooler/tim into your costs.
Keihart
Member
So if i'm not planning to overclock the 6700k its not really woth it right? if that is the case i guess i'll just go with the vanilla one because i'm not really the type to be cleaning and mantaning regularly my PC so if i OC it i fear it might overheat eventually
Edit: HAZ's build from the OT only has a CM HYPER 212 EVO, is that enough to OC it though? if it is, i might as well go with that.
Edit: HAZ's build from the OT only has a CM HYPER 212 EVO, is that enough to OC it though? if it is, i might as well go with that.
Debatable. The base clock is .6 higher, and that's pretty large comparing stock to stock.
The 212 Evo is enough to OC, yeah.
Keihart mentioned cleaning and I have a question. What should I buy to help me keep my PC clean? In the past I never cleaned it so it was a dust bin. I want to make sure this time around I keep my PC looking nice and clean. And how often should a PC be cleaned?
And on the subject of OC, I'll be able to PC the i7 with the H110i GTX cooler right? I've never OCed before so I'll be doing a lot of research soon.
And on the subject of OC, I'll be able to PC the i7 with the H110i GTX cooler right? I've never OCed before so I'll be doing a lot of research soon.
Sectorseven
Member
I would just get a case with dust screens and blast it with canned air every few months.
opticalmace
Member
I just use compressed air every once in a while. It helps if your case has dust filters, which you can easily remove and wash.
I'd also spend the time to make the cable routing nice, it makes it easier to tinker around inside the case and helps with airflow. Fewer places for dust to catch on too.
You'll definitely be able to OC well with that cooler, though I've never used an AIO myself (stuck to air cooling).
It's a tough call to make. I think $90~ is expensive to pay for a feature that you may or may not be using. If it were just that then it'd be an easy decision. An OC usually gives a CPU a year or so more of usable lifetime. So $90 for just that is kinda iffy.
However, that frequency upgrade is actually nice. We're talking a full year more of life that you'll get from the CPU even when you're not overclocking. And still you have the option to OC to get another year out of it if/when you feel comfortable with it.
And yeah, the EVO 212 is good.
Cool thanks. The Air 540 is good for cable management apparently so I'll be doing that.
demosthenes
Member
Question on RAM.
I currently have 8gb DRR3 1600 ram.
As DDR3 ram prices have gone down, would it be benefiting to me to upgrade that to 8gb of something faster or 16gb of something faster (not really expensive)?
My mobo's specifications has:
Memory Standard
DDR3 3000(O.C.) / 2933(O.C.) / 2800(O.C.) / 2666(O.C.) / 2600(O.C.) / 2500(O.C.) / 2400(O.C.) / 2200(O.C.) / 2133(O.C.) / 2000(O.C.) / 1866(O.C.) / 1800(O.C.) / 1600 / 1333
I assume the O.C. stands for overclock? If I bought RAM at a higher speed would it simply just work, or are all of those higher values overclocked from 1600?
I currently have 8gb DRR3 1600 ram.
As DDR3 ram prices have gone down, would it be benefiting to me to upgrade that to 8gb of something faster or 16gb of something faster (not really expensive)?
My mobo's specifications has:
Memory Standard
DDR3 3000(O.C.) / 2933(O.C.) / 2800(O.C.) / 2666(O.C.) / 2600(O.C.) / 2500(O.C.) / 2400(O.C.) / 2200(O.C.) / 2133(O.C.) / 2000(O.C.) / 1866(O.C.) / 1800(O.C.) / 1600 / 1333
I assume the O.C. stands for overclock? If I bought RAM at a higher speed would it simply just work, or are all of those higher values overclocked from 1600?
opticalmace
Member
What are your system's specs? Faster ram usually helps a little, but it's a much smaller effect than a new GPU or CPU, assuming you don't have a state of the art system.
It won't be. I looked at doing the same but 3770ks were really expensive. Almost the same price to just get a 6600k/6700k. Yes you need a new MB/RAM but it just seemed like a waste of money.
IMO stick with the 3570k (overclocked), or upgrade to a 6600/6700k/z170/16GB DDR4
The Excellent Build has the GTX 1070 at $350 while the Great and Enthusiast Builds have it at $450
Ah, that would explain it then. I'll try that solution, though I wonder if I can set the frame limit to something higher than 60FPS.
demosthenes
Member
i5-4670k and I just bought a GTX1070.
Hoping the 1070 will let me ride out my current rig for a few more years before a total over haul. The only possible upgrade I think I could/want to do would be to possibly increase RAM? Just curious if it's worth it and if so what I should be buying b/c I was confused by the O.C.'s in the technical specs above.
RamaTheVoice
Member
Get more RAM, and since it's cheap no reason not to go with higher speeds.
demosthenes
Member
From my post above, all the speeds higher than 1600 have (O.C.) in it. This could be a dumb question but does that mean it just takes 1600 overclocked or can I go on newegg and buy DDR 2400?
edit: Assuming I can use any speed listed above:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231670
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231671
Any other suggestions for DDR 2400 that people have used and like?
Strafebogey
Member
Double post.
Strafebogey
Member
So I'm so very close to finishing my water build. Sadly I needed some pipe that was 600mm long and it only comes in 500mm. As a result I'm waiting on 3 fittings!
Nice! Blue white theme. I went with the typical black red route. I'm super picky when it comes to tubes with bends like that, just my OCD I guess. And because of that, the budget went over with the cost of fittings, because I wanted everything to be in a straight line.
Kept getting access is denied errors when trying to open the dump files even though I had full access to them, so I tried
which returns:
crash dump file: C:\WINDOWS\memory.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: hal.dll (hal!HalpApic1EndOfInterrupt+0x7)
Bugcheck code: 0xA (0xB0, 0xFF, 0x0, 0xFFFFF801B7A21117)
Error: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
file path: C:\WINDOWS\system32\hal.dll
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: Hardware Abstraction Layer DLL
Bug check description: This indicates that Microsoft Windows or a kernel-mode driver accessed paged memory at DISPATCH_LEVEL or above.
This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem.
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver on your system that cannot be identified at this time.
Sfc /scannow returned no errors. Aida64 testing didn't crash 20+ mins into stress testing my memory either. Possible bad OC? i5 6600K at 4.3ghz 1.23vcore on an MSI Z170A PC Mate.
xCaptainCanadax
Member
Finally put together a new build. All im waiting for now is a Gigabyte 1070 Windforce card to come out.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($299.99 @ NCIX)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($38.98 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($189.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($74.68 @ NCIX)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($74.68 @ NCIX)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($107.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($95.98 @ Amazon Canada)
Case: Phanteks ECLIPSE P400S ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($122.52 @ Amazon Canada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($124.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $1224.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-23 15:35 EDT-0400
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($299.99 @ NCIX)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($38.98 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($189.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($74.68 @ NCIX)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($74.68 @ NCIX)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($107.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($95.98 @ Amazon Canada)
Case: Phanteks ECLIPSE P400S ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($122.52 @ Amazon Canada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($124.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $1224.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-23 15:35 EDT-0400
I know this is gonna be a dumb question, but I'm just trying to exactly replicate the new Budget Build in the OP on pcpartpicker so I can have it ready after I get paid, but I'm not understanding the videocard option; I'm going with the "AMD R7 370 4GB" on the build list, but on pcpartpicker none of the R7 370 4GB cards are AMD. Unless I picked another wrong part somewhere so my compatibility list is messed up? This is where I'm at:
Or if what I'm looking at is correct does it matter much which one I go with? Putting the build together most of the parts all had a ton of reviews, not much here except the first one which is fine, but that one is also $30 above the build listing price of $130 so just want to make sure I'm not messing something else up, first timer here >_>.
Also kind of salty I've got to drop money for a copy of windows, but I don't have a separate windows key I can use, we're building this to replace an OEM machine so that's no go there in terms of upgrading from that license :/.
Or if what I'm looking at is correct does it matter much which one I go with? Putting the build together most of the parts all had a ton of reviews, not much here except the first one which is fine, but that one is also $30 above the build listing price of $130 so just want to make sure I'm not messing something else up, first timer here >_>.
Also kind of salty I've got to drop money for a copy of windows, but I don't have a separate windows key I can use, we're building this to replace an OEM machine so that's no go there in terms of upgrading from that license :/.
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