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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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23qwerty

Member
Sure, why not? Which PSUs are they anyway? EIther one modular?

If only one is for gaming, then you'll probably want the better power supply in that one anyway.

Current one is http://www.ncix.com/detail/corsair-cx-series-cx500-500w-a9-76035.htm

New one is http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=105439

They'll both be used for gaming, the secondary computer will inherit the 970.

Wasn't sure what a modular PSU actually meant until now, I can definitely see why that would be preferred
 
Thanks guys!

I was swapping stuff around and vector posted pretty much the exact thing haha.

Now to see how selling my car plays out before ordering things. Excite!
 
Current one is http://www.ncix.com/detail/corsair-cx-series-cx500-500w-a9-76035.htm

New one is http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=105439

They'll both be used for gaming, the secondary computer will inherit the 970.

Wasn't sure what a modular PSU actually meant until now, I can definitely see why that would be preferred

Is one of your systems a small form factor build? Normally you'd only buy the second one because you can't fit a more standard sized (and cheaper) one. If you can freely swap between them I don't understand why you'd get the second?

But heck yeah on modular PSUs. So much nicer to work with.
 

Megabat

Member
I'm poor as shit so while I buy my parts in pieces I have to make do with what I have to game.

Should I keep using my GTX 560Ti 1GB or switch over to my 7700 2GB? I'm not sure which is faster.

Which 7700 card is it? If it's a 7790, switch. Below that the difference is very slim.
 

23qwerty

Member
Is one of your systems a small form factor build? Normally you'd only buy the second one because you can't fit a more standard sized (and cheaper) one. If you can freely swap between them I don't understand why you'd get the second?

But heck yeah on modular PSUs. So much nicer to work with.

I just needed another PSU, it seemed like a decent enough one to go with. Not sure what made me pick it at the time but it was $120 instead of $140.

Just not sure how much of a pain it would be to remove the current PSU to replace it, and if it really matters that much.
 
Fixed! 3000mhz ram, 600W PSU, 1070 GPU. If you're not set on a mini ITX form factor you could save a couple hundred bucks.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H55 57.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($97.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($154.85 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($429.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Silverstone RVZ01B Mini ITX Desktop Case ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Silverstone 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($116.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Silverstone SST-SOB02 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1562.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-22 23:03 EDT-0400

Good to go! You even have a healthy overclocking headroom on this setup, and trust me, you can overclock even in this small enclosure. I clocked my Devil's Canyon processor to a healthy 4.8Ghz on that same liquid cooler and my 1080 up another 15% with fan curve up at 60% RPM barely audible. All this happening inside the RVZ01 slim case.
 

Megabat

Member
So I bought a 1440p 144hz monitor. I mostly play Overwatch, which runs around 70 fps average. Question is, In the options menu in Overwatch you can choose the resolution at either 59hz, 119hz, and 139hz, so which one should I pick?

I'd go with 119Hz (120Hz). Try turning down settings to get to that frame rate. Even if you have to cut resolution down.
 
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/MRkCm8

I'm googling around and I'm interested in this build, mainly for an easy to carry around computer. How does it look? (I already have a 980ti, being replaced by 1080 sometime)

Might bump up to i5 6600
Might bump up to 2x8 3000 ram
Looking for suggestions on the two 2.5 hard drives, in case I'm missing something.

is there anything obviously wrong with it? Also I have no clue what they mean by the part "Slimline S​ata to Sat​a Power Ad​apter" and their listed link doesn't work for me. Any help?
i spent three hours looking at parts and remaking my own build with the upgrades I wanted. At the very end I took a look at the motherboard again and noticed it doesn't support DDR4 3000. So I basically have to start over. To demotivated from that though.
 
So GAF PC heads I have a question. My MSI 980 Ti Gaming is coming in the mail on Friday and I'm currently rocking an EVGA 600b2 power supply and I'm planning on ocing.

I already have my i7 2600k @4.4 and my 16gb ddr3 ram is overclocked also so I'm guessing my PSU won't be enough to handle everything being oced so I'm trying to decided between the two.

1. EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B2 on amazon @$64.99
or
2. EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 on amazon @$99.99

which should I go for?
 

Iorv3th

Member
So GAF PC heads I have a question. My MSI 980 Ti is coming in the mail on Friday and I'm currently rocking an EVGA 600b2 power supply and I'm planning on ocing.

I already have my i7 2600k @4.4 and my 16gb ddr3 ram is overclocked also so I'm guessing my PSU won't be enough to handle everything being oced so I'm trying to decided between the two.

1. EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B2 on amazon @$64.99
or
2. EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 on amazon @$99.99

which should I go for?

You will probably be fine with the 600, but check this site http://powersupplycalculator.net/
 
You will probably be fine with the 600, but check this site http://powersupplycalculator.net/

not entirely sure how it works but I was checking the MSI 980 Ti Gaming reviews and while oced the card can draw up to 360-390 watts (much more than the reference card) and my cpu at 4.4 reaches up to 190 watts then of course all the other stuff (evo ssd, 5 led cooling case fans. Obviously that's with both at full load being 580 watts power draw probably would be unrealistic but its good to have the extra headroom right? Plus this PSU is rated tier 3 which seems quite low for these components.

If I'm misinterpreting how watts are drawn from the PSU feel free to let me know.
 
So GAF PC heads I have a question. My MSI 980 Ti is coming in the mail on Friday and I'm currently rocking an EVGA 600b2 power supply and I'm planning on ocing.

I already have my i7 2600k @4.4 and my 16gb ddr3 ram is overclocked also so I'm guessing my PSU won't be enough to handle everything being oced so I'm trying to decided between the two.

1. EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B2 on amazon @$64.99
or
2. EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 on amazon @$99.99

which should I go for?

G2. The authority in PSU review, Jonnyguru rated the G2 better. B2 has soldering issues.
 
not entirely sure how it works but I was checking the MSI 980 Ti Gaming reviews and while oced the card can draw up to 360-390 watts (much more than the reference card) and my cpu at 4.4 reaches up to 190 watts then of course all the other stuff (evo ssd, 5 led cooling case fans. Obviously that's with both at full load being 580 watts power draw probably would be unrealistic but its good to have the extra headroom right? Plus this PSU is rated tier 3 which seems quite low for these components.

If I'm misinterpreting how watts are drawn from the PSU feel free to let me know.

Assuming a standard one SSD and one hard drive and 3 case fans setup, your system draw:

nqRvnro.png


Amended for that efficiency issue. My apologies.
 
Assuming a standard one SSD and one hard drive and 3 case fans setup, your system draw:

nqRvnro.png


And if you're running that B2 600W PSU at full 100% load, it is 82% efficient based on its 80 Plus Bronze efficiency rating, so you're getting 492W, which isn't enough.

At 100% load you should be getting 600W, but pulling 18% more that 600W from the wall, right?

That 600w is how much it can provide, not how much it pulls from the wall.
 
Assuming a standard one SSD and one hard drive and 3 case fans setup, your system draw:

nqRvnro.png


And if you're running that B2 600W PSU at full 100% load, it is 82% efficient based on its 80 Plus Bronze efficiency rating, so you're getting 492W, which isn't enough.

ok thank you so I'll need an upgrade which isn't a problem.

does getting the g2 over the b2 justify for the extra $30 even with the soldering related issues?
 

kuYuri

Member
Sorry to quote myself, won't do it again if I don't hear from anyone, just really keen to buy this soon.

I don't know what prices are like in Aus, but here are your choices for what you're asking for:

Acer
http://www.acer.com/ac/en/GB/content/model/UM.HX0EE.002

AOC
http://aoc-europe.com/en/products/g2770pf

Iiyama
http://iiyama.com/gl_en/products/g-master-gb2788hs-b1/

Viewsonic
http://ap.viewsonic.com/my/products/lcd/VX2757-mhd.php#pFeatures

Read up on reviews and decide for yourself if it's worth it. I have no opinion since I'm on G-Sync.
 
ok thank you so I'll need an upgrade which isn't a problem.

does getting the g2 over the b2 justify for the extra $30 even with the soldering related issues?


Don't listen to me, Nostremitus corrected my mistake. You can still get that 600W, only thing is, you're drawing more power from the socket than 600W, hence less efficient. I'll amend my post immediately to avoid that confusion. My apologies.

So basically, you can still use your 600W PSU if you like. Only thing is, it is less efficient hence costing you more in your electricity bill compared to moving up the efficiency ladder. I assume your 600W is the 800B model from EVGA and that's an 80 Plus Bronze. Moving up to the 750W G2 isnt necessary, but you'll get an 80 Plus GOLD which will save your operating cost in the long run.
 

Dmax3901

Member
I don't know what prices are like in Aus, but here are your choices for what you're asking for:

Acer
http://www.acer.com/ac/en/GB/content/model/UM.HX0EE.002

AOC
http://aoc-europe.com/en/products/g2770pf

Iiyama
http://iiyama.com/gl_en/products/g-master-gb2788hs-b1/

Viewsonic
http://ap.viewsonic.com/my/products/lcd/VX2757-mhd.php#pFeatures

Read up on reviews and decide for yourself if it's worth it. I have no opinion since I'm on G-Sync.

Thanks, I'll check those links out :)
 
Don't listen to me, Nostremitus corrected my mistake. You can still get that 600W, only thing is, you're drawing more power from the socket than 600W, hence less efficient. I'll amend my post immediately to avoid that confusion. My apologies.

So basically, you can still use your 600W PSU if you like. Only thing is, it is less efficient hence costing you more in your electricity bill compared to moving up the efficiency ladder. I assume your 600W is the 800B model from EVGA and that's an 80 Plus Bronze. Moving up to the 750W G2 isnt necessary, but you'll get an 80 Plus GOLD which will save your operating cost in the long run.

this is what I got assuming I can get my 980 ti to at least this. all other components are more or less accurate (ssd, hd, 5 led fans)

Code:
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/I6Y93nQ.png[/IMG]
 

Wag

Member
I'd like to build my friend a decent PC. I gave her an old Q9550 tower but it's not going to cut it.

I have a spare Sandy Bridge 2600k sitting here, unfortunately no mobo (one with pins I can't unbend). Anyone know where I can find a decent price on a good overclocking mobo for it? I can't find them cheap anymore, just the H61 boards (no o/c there). I'll still have to buy DDR3 for it too and a new videocard (Q9550 is rocking a GTX 295).
 
this is what I got assuming I can get my 980 ti to at least this. all other components are more or less accurate (ssd, hd, 5 led fans)

Code:
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/I6Y93nQ.png[/IMG]

If those figures are correct, including those overclocking numbers, then you definitely need that 750W G2.

IDE hard drive.......really? Not SATA?
 
If those figures are correct, including those overclocking numbers, then you definitely need that 750W G2.

IDE hard drive.......really? Not SATA?

my fault fixed that. so 602 was the load wattage but yea everything is correct besides the 980 ti oc but I'm sure I'll be able to get that if not more.

So just to clarify before pushing this button. The G2 is worth the extra $30 over the B2?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
OP updated on speculated prices on AMD cards, not sure I'll be around exact launch days to edit.
RETURN OF VALUE CARDS?!
 

gotoadgo

Member
No noticeable difference. And I've seen a lot of reported issues with m.2 drive incompatibilities. More money and trouble than it's worth. You could consider a 1TB SSD though, if you want more space. Also, maybe consider the 279Q over the 278Q? IPS vs TN.
I've looked in to this but it doesn't seem overly worth it to me for the usage and the extra money it would cost. The 278Q should be more than enough considering I'm coming from a 1680x1050 22in screen.

Probably no noticeable difference in gaming, but if you do a lot of large file transfers you'll notice the difference. It also allows for a cleaner case (no wires) if thats your thing.
I think I'll stick with the standard SSD if there's no real discernible difference, there won't really be any large files being transferred.

Hey guys. I've been wanting a new PC for a while and will hopefully be building his within the next few months. I'd just really appreciate some feedback on the overall parts list and where it could improve. The budget is around 4K.

The idea behind the PC is high quality gaming with a custom cooling loop on the cpu and gpu, going pump/res->cpu->radiator->gpu->radiator->back to start. This is to be over clocked obviously.

I've listed the parts below. Note that I'm from Australia when recommending parts/prices on things. The list below does not have the gpu block as there isn't one available that I can find for that make of the card.

I'm mostly unsure of the water cooling bits and also the ssd and whether I should have an m.2 ssd instead.

[PCPartPicker part list](http://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/qKJLkT) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/qKJLkT/by_merchant/)

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/tdmxFT/intel-cpu-bx80662i76700k) | $483.00 @ Centre Com
**Motherboard** | [Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard](http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/tBZ2FT/asus-motherboard-maximusviiihero) | $345.00 @ Centre Com
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory](http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/Cf98TW/gskill-memory-f43200c16d16gvkb) | $117.00 @ IJK
**Storage** | [Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/FrH48d/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e500bam) | $189.00 @ PLE Computers
**Video Card** | [Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card](http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/3fvZxr/gigabyte-video-card-gvn1080g1gaming8gd) | $1139.00 @ Mwave Australia
**Case** | [Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition w/ Window ATX Mid Tower Case](http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/fkTrxr/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr5bkow) | $182.00 @ IJK
**Power Supply** | [Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/qNrG3C/cooler-master-power-supply-rs850afbag1us) | $235.00 @ Centre Com
**Monitor** | [Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 27.0" 144Hz Monitor](http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/zj8Zxr/asus-monitor-90lm00u0b01370) | $959.00 @ IJK
**Other**| Water block| $89.00 EK supremacy acetel
**Other**| Pump/Reservoir| $159.00 xres 140 revo d5
**Other**| Radiator 240| $49.00 xspc ex 240
**Other**| Radiator 360| $55.00 xspc ex360
**Other**| Pump bracket $15.00
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$4016.00**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](http://pcpartpicker.com) 2016-06-23 08:21 AEST+1000 |
Anyone else have any input on this one?
 

Zabojnik

Member
Lads, in case anyone is about to pull the trigger on bequiet!'s Silent Wings 2 fans.

2h: Hello @ChrisBequiet, please release the Silent Wings 3 fans already. I need to one-up [redacted]. Alternatively, tell me WHEN. :) Thanks.

be quiet! ‏@ChrisBequiet 1h1 hour ago

you will see SW2 stock clearance over the next couple of weeks if you know what I mean ;-)

SW3 cometh.
 
Is it possible overclock an 3770k on stock cooling? I know nothing about overclocking, but if possible, how far could I push it? ( again on stock).
 

hlhbk

Member
I am having a very strange issue with my gaming PC which I have had for a little over a year. First my specs

Asus MAXIMUS VII GENE
Intel 4970k (not over clocked)
EVO 212 cpu cooler
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB RAM (not overclocked)
Gigabyte Nvidia GTX 980 (not overclocked)
Windforce care with 2 250mm fans on the side

Recently I have started hearing what can best described as 3 chirping noises coming in a row randomly from the motherboard/bottom of the case near the video card. First thing I was thinking was a fan issue. I have:

1. Disconnected the fans on the side of the case.
2. Just for a few seconds stopped the fans on the video card, Processor, and power supply when these noises occur.

None of these stopped the noise from happening. It is really annoying, but I can't figure out exactly where its coming from. Since it's down by the video card and not always present I am thinking it might be a strangle coil sound since I know GPU's make coil whine when under load, but it happens when I am browsing websites.

The case is cool enough that you almost never hear the fans kick up so I don't think it's heat related either.

I also have a few SSD's and 2 4 TB 7200 RPM HDD's down in that area. I disconnected the mechanical drives and it didn't help in the slightest.

I am truly at a loss on my next steps to fix this. Anyone run into this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Anyone know what I can do about this?
 

jdw_b

Member
Sorry to quote myself, won't do it again if I don't hear from anyone, just really keen to buy this soon.

I don't know what prices are like in Aus, but here are your choices for what you're asking for:

Acer
http://www.acer.com/ac/en/GB/content/model/UM.HX0EE.002

AOC
http://aoc-europe.com/en/products/g2770pf

Iiyama
http://iiyama.com/gl_en/products/g-master-gb2788hs-b1/

Viewsonic
http://ap.viewsonic.com/my/products/lcd/VX2757-mhd.php#pFeatures

Read up on reviews and decide for yourself if it's worth it. I have no opinion since I'm on G-Sync.

Thought i'd chime in on one of those choices. I have the AOC 2770pf, it's pretty decent. Takes a bit of fiddling to get the image right but there are a few ICC profiles on the net which will help. There are also a set of beta drivers which give the monitor a 30-144hz Freesync range, which is pretty awesome.

I got mine on sale for £180, not sure what that is in your money, but i'd say it's been worth it. Again, not the greatest picture in the world but certainly not bad by any means...the Freesync range makes up for it in my opinion
 

knitoe

Member
Is it possible overclock an 3770k on stock cooling? I know nothing about overclocking, but if possible, how far could I push it? ( again on stock).

Not recommended on the stock cooler. With a aftermarket, 4.2-4.6GHz depending the CPU quality, CPU cooler and/or CPU voltage used.
 
Is it possible overclock an 3770k on stock cooling? I know nothing about overclocking, but if possible, how far could I push it? ( again on stock).

How hot are you running under load? I'm not super optimistic but you could possibly get a few more Mhz out of it.

Do a Prime95/Intel Burn Test run and see :)
 

Hesemonni

Banned
Anyone know what I can do about this?
Not exactly chirping, but on my previous GPU the fans sometimes hit the case due to GPU being a little bent. It drove me crazy trying to locate the cause, but eventually when I found it it was a easy fix. I just fixed the alignment of the card.
 
Yeah, won't be doing it now. So apparently you have to do tests that run for 24hrs?

No need, that's just for stability testing when you OC (and even then most people don't let them run that long).

What you need to do is stress your CPU for a bit and check at what temperature it stabilizes under load. A half hour should be more than enough for this at stock speeds.
 

Kilrogg

paid requisite penance
The mouse I use at work is broken. My boss told me to buy a new one :D.

Are vertical mice a good option for work? I use my work computer all day, so I could use some more comfort.

Know a good model below $/€30? Can't exactly have work spend $80 on a mouse obviously.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
The mouse I use at work is broken. My boss told me to buy a new one :D.

Are vertical mice a good option for work? I use my work computer all day, so I could use some more comfort.

Know a good model below $/€30? Can't exactly have work spend $80 on a mouse obviously.
Trackball? Logitech has a wireless USB model. I use one.
 

Fenom

Member
So hopefully someone on here could help me.
With my help on skype one of my friends just built his first pc.
Everything went well enough, however the pc wont post.
Components are:

Gigabyte Z170 Gaming K3 EU LGA 1151 4x DDR4 Max 64

HyperX FURY 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) 2133 MHz DDR4 CL14 UDIMM Memory Kit (Skylake Compatible)

Intel Core Skylake Processor i5-6500

Using the built in speaker, he gets 5 beeps. Looking online this usually means a CPU, CPU socket error or some people report issues with ram. I've had him try all ram slots with both sticks and one stick.
Has anyone experienced issues like this before? I'm going round of Saturday to help troubleshoot it. It'll probably end up being the ram incorrectly seated, but I'll be taking over some spare DDR4 to check.
If anyones had similar problems any help would be appreciated, Thanks!
 

Vuze

Member
Damn.

My bad then, didn't realize stock coolers were so bad as I haven't used one in ages. What would you suggest to check CPU temps under load?
Maybe something non-synthetic like a 30min+ x264 encode?
I didn''t have any extreme temps doing that on the 4570 with stock cooling at 100% load.
 
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