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Joycon connection issue may be hardware related
- Thread starter Its Quite Toasty
- Start date
good stuff
Diablohead
Member
ok so my good working joycon just completely disconnected from my switch, I am sitting at the desk the switch is sat on, about 4 feet between my joycon controller and the switch itself.
It's starting to get annoying just like the xbox one controller disconnects and it's only the left side joycon doing it.
It's starting to get annoying just like the xbox one controller disconnects and it's only the left side joycon doing it.
imma test this shit out, posting in about 5 min for the results.
edit: tried it, nothing same shit.
NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
So after re-arranging my tv stand tonight I discovered I am indeed afflicted with the left joy con connection issue. My joy cons have worked just fine since the 3rd with the Switch in front of the TV but tonight I moved it behind the TV and it's been acting up since.
What's the best course of action on this? I assume Nintendo is aware of the problem and is sending out replacements, or is there something else I need to do?
Also, do I need to put the right joy con through its paces as well to check whether it is having the same problem or is it just the left joy cons with issues?
What's the best course of action on this? I assume Nintendo is aware of the problem and is sending out replacements, or is there something else I need to do?
Also, do I need to put the right joy con through its paces as well to check whether it is having the same problem or is it just the left joy cons with issues?
Both can have the issue. Left is more problematic. Swapping them seems pointless as I have tried 5 different left joycons. I have found one working one, but the right joycon from the pair seems to have issues.
Nintendo hasn't said anything other than "we are looking into it" basically.
Sniffynose
Member
Willing to bet you tore the trace since you had a rather large antenna cable hanging off that tiny point. Packing it with the tape after likely pushed it back in making a connection again. That controller might be janky now, but if it is torn, you know the routine, scratch away some coating and resolder across the gap to fix the tear.
So we had my test before debunking the "adding a wire antenna" and now yours doing it the other way I had mentioned (removing the internal antenna from the circuit and adding a matched antenna only) and we both came to the same conclusion that it seems to be working as intended but it's power levels could definitely use a bump.
I also think that main point where they bridged the antenna might be poorly hit and reflowing the solder might be giving people better results afterwards.
It will definitely be interesting to see what happens revision wise down the road, if they launch different colours I'd tear one down to see if any changes are made.
Zenaku
Member
Just tested mine at last, little issue for me. At around 3-4m away both were working fine, and the first to have issues was the right joycon which seemed to lose sync, while the left joycon was fine. Moved another meter or so away, out of direct line of sight with the switch, and even swapped the joycons around, still the right one again was the first to desync, left was still connected fine.
That was just moving on the home menu though, I'll need to move the dock to reliably test a game. Serials start with XBJ4 and XCJ4.
That was just moving on the home menu though, I'll need to move the dock to reliably test a game. Serials start with XBJ4 and XCJ4.
ChemicalCutthroat
Member
My left Joy Con is one of the junkers too. I'm maybe seven or eight feet away from the Switch, which is sitting next to my TV. If I slouch into a comfortable position while playing it will randomly disconnect, and sometimes it'll just disconnect for no reason whatsoever.
On Zelda, it is annoying. On games like Fast RMX it is downright gamebreaking.
When Mario Kart comes out there will be true hell. One of the fun selling points is having two controllers so you can play one the fly.
I'm hearing you have to send the whole unit back (switch and both joycons) if you try to do a Nintendo repair? I'm not down for that. If I could just send the fucky Joy Con back and make due with a Pro Controller for a couple weeks I could live with that.
Just need to... find a Pro Controller.
On Zelda, it is annoying. On games like Fast RMX it is downright gamebreaking.
When Mario Kart comes out there will be true hell. One of the fun selling points is having two controllers so you can play one the fly.
I'm hearing you have to send the whole unit back (switch and both joycons) if you try to do a Nintendo repair? I'm not down for that. If I could just send the fucky Joy Con back and make due with a Pro Controller for a couple weeks I could live with that.
Just need to... find a Pro Controller.
b00_thegh0st
Member
Can someone confirm this? Where did your hear so?
NYR
Member
This is the first I've heard of that, that is kind of ridiculous. If I bought joy cons separately, I am not going to send in the unit too.
I can confirm, called them an hour ago and that's what the told me. I'm from Spain though so it can be a different story in other countries.
I told the lady that I had a pro controller which works perfectly so I'm sure the problem is in the joycons, but she insisted I had to send the main unit too because reasons. I told her I'll think about it.
It sucks
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
So at this point, there really is no "fix" outside of Nintendo taking action?
This is ludicrous. Nintendo is dropping the ball right now, and it's going to bite them in the ass. Fuck.
This is ludicrous. Nintendo is dropping the ball right now, and it's going to bite them in the ass. Fuck.
b00_thegh0st
Member
And they F-ing wipe your Zelda save. Incredible...
The lady I spoke to told me they would transfer the save data in case they would need to wipe it or change the main unit, but I'm not sure they even know how the machine works yet.
ChemicalCutthroat
Member
Sounds like she went off script.
If I get conflicting opinions, and one of them says they wipe your data. I automatically assume they are going to wipe the data regardless.
Consensus at the moment is the joycons are lower power compared to other controllers, which may be causing some people problems on its own, and the manual soldering required with the left joycon before it can function is unreliable and crippling some of them.
Power levels could maybe be boosted by a firmware update to give people that option if they are experiencing problems, but probably wouldn't be enough for a crippled joycon.
Only solution there is to play the joycon lottery, either by replacement or buying some new ones, and hope it hasn't been soldered by an idiot.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Is there a good list of units with working numbers? I'm not against buying and returning Joycons until I get good ones.
Not at the moment, the numbers on the shell don't seem related. Just a case of crossing your fingers.
FearMyWrench
Member
For what it's worth, I called them in NA yesterday and was able to arrange a joy-con only repair, no system. Was offered expedited shipping for free and is supposed to take only a few days. Will report with the results when I get it back!
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Alright. Well once I get my Switch this week, I'll start testing. Thanks.
ChemicalCutthroat
Member
Baller. Looking forward to hearing how this goes.
The semi-rigid cable is not hanging of the antenna trace, the outer ground conductor is soldered to the PCB ground along the along the cable (as is required to get a good RF connection between the cable and the PCB) and is quite sturdy. I looked at the trace after I had lost the resonance specifically to see if it had been damaged and there were no issues.
I don't know if I am misunderstanding you but I am not removing the internal antenna, I am looking at it. What you see is the internal antenna (but with the radio replaced by external instruments). Nothing in that post relates to radio power levels, but to the efficiency of the internal antenna itself.
NYR
Member
Yes, please let us know.
jts
...hate me...
I think it's ridiculous in the first place that Nintendo ever asks to send the full system in case of a faulty joy-con. I'm thinking poor training / poor planning.
It's like asking to send the Wii in for a faulty Wii Remote.
Unlike the Wii U Gamepads, the Joy-cons are interchangeable, sold as an accessory, optional to navigate the system fully. Even if some games require them (not many, but for example 1-2 Switch) they don't require those specific Joy-cons that were shipped with the console. You can have another pair.
Never settle for a full system shipping for a faulty accessory. Badger them until they understand you'll not lose your system, your downloads, your screenshots, your saves, your screen protector, and your ability to play your games with other controllers, while you wait for a faulty accessory to get repaired/replaced.
Same goes for the dock.
It's like asking to send the Wii in for a faulty Wii Remote.
Unlike the Wii U Gamepads, the Joy-cons are interchangeable, sold as an accessory, optional to navigate the system fully. Even if some games require them (not many, but for example 1-2 Switch) they don't require those specific Joy-cons that were shipped with the console. You can have another pair.
Never settle for a full system shipping for a faulty accessory. Badger them until they understand you'll not lose your system, your downloads, your screenshots, your saves, your screen protector, and your ability to play your games with other controllers, while you wait for a faulty accessory to get repaired/replaced.
Same goes for the dock.
Sniffynose
Member
Ok I didn't realize you had the tension being offloaded by the ground connection. That makes the sudden loss and fix with the tape seem even more unusual.
As per the second bit, I thought you had desoldered the bridge at that point (thus removing the internal antenna from the circuit) and connected the external lead taking the internal out of the equation.
Yeah so it was purely an internal test, so basically everything is working as intended but there's that random unknown disconnect possibly tied to a bad original soldering job on that bridge.
When I called they offered a download code for 1-2 Switch and expedited shipping. I only had to send the one joy-con. Ask to speak to a supervisor if they say anything else.
I haven't sent mine in yet though. I'd rather just swap them at retailers until I get a decent pair. Then when rev2 comes out, swap again.
I haven't sent mine in yet though. I'd rather just swap them at retailers until I get a decent pair. Then when rev2 comes out, swap again.
Like the hat?
Banned
Are you in the us? I wouldn't mind trying to get a 1-2-switch code, heh
Canada. The reps I spoke to were from the US because they asked me how to format a postal code.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Jokes on you! They just want to eat up space on your system so you have to buy a memory card.
Real talk - I'll have to keep this in mind. I refuse to BUY 1-2 Switch at the current asking price. But a free copy? Sure.
Ya, it might not even be worth calling in for it. Can't believe they're asking what they're asking for it.
NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
I'd honestly prefer to buy a pair of blue joycons and then return them along with my bum existing one as defective. At this point I'm just waiting to hear back on whether or not the joycons available at retail are fixed or not.
This is crazy to me. I've played botw for about 50 hours, I've played snipperclips for 1 or 2 and 1 2 switch for about 3-4 hours. Havent had this issue even once, even playing 1 2 switch sitting on my couch like 10 feet away, even lying down with my hands just drooping down either side. Not even once.
b00_thegh0st
Member
This. I'm about 2,5 meters away from my dock and my left JC sometimes drops inputs unexpectedly. Nothing major but I know it'll get annoying. I'm waiting for Nintendo to fix the manufacturing process before I send it back. Right now it feels too much like lottery.
I luckily got my hands on a pro controller on day minus one so I'm fine with waiting.
whiteninja
Member
Tried docked for the first time and of course I got left joycon issues. It seems the stick will continue in the direction i pushed it in even after letting go for like half a sec. This was about 8 feet away from the dock.
I hope they fix this since this makes docked play pointless and I dont wanna blow $70 on another controller.
I hope they fix this since this makes docked play pointless and I dont wanna blow $70 on another controller.
The problem doesn't seem to effect every system sold, what's crazy about that?
any particular reason why they offered the game code?
It's a soldering problem connecting the antenna to the Bluetooth chip. They'll probably take the need to hand solder out of the process to remove human error.
I asked for an advanced RMA where they send a working replacement joycon before I send mine in. The supervisor said she would have done it but didn't have any stock, so she offered the code instead.
me0wish
Member
I went through the last 2 pages, so basically, all you did is heat the solder and it got working properly? I have some soldering experience, and I'm willing to try the fix on my joycons.
Ya, I was going to add the wire but I couldn't get the solder to go where I wanted so I just quit while I was ahead. I did change the shape of the existing bead of solder though which fixed the desync issues for me. So maybe it wasn't contacting properly before I heated it.
I did break one of the clips that hold the ribbon cable that connects the rail to the main board. So careful of that. You can do the soldering work with them connected. I just thought it would be easy to reconnect them. I was wrong.
Got another stand alone pair of joycons from best buy today to try them out and I think they:re the best I've tried yet.
I'll be keeping this pair and returning the rest.
Left: A441
Right: A451
Looks like it is just luck of the draw with the controllers bundled with the console having a higher failure rate (at least in my testing).
So your current options appear to be...
- Keep switching them at a retailer with the stand alone pairs and cross your fingers.
- Try messing with the soldering point yourself and you may have some success.
- Send them to Nintendo and wait 2-3 weeks and maybe they'll fix it? (Haven't had anyone report the results of sending it in yet).
I'll be keeping this pair and returning the rest.
Left: A441
Right: A451
Looks like it is just luck of the draw with the controllers bundled with the console having a higher failure rate (at least in my testing).
So your current options appear to be...
- Keep switching them at a retailer with the stand alone pairs and cross your fingers.
- Try messing with the soldering point yourself and you may have some success.
- Send them to Nintendo and wait 2-3 weeks and maybe they'll fix it? (Haven't had anyone report the results of sending it in yet).
Air Zombie Meat
Member
Yeah the fault is in the joycons. Got two pairs, one works fine the others left joycon disconnects every five minues.
billmcdougal
Member
Think gamestop would actually let me try swapping my consoles left joycon with a stand-alone?
Why can't Nintendo ship my replacement before I send the broken one? Id pay a deposit.
Rocket786
Member
This is a clusterfuck. I unfortunately had to send my Switch back to Gamestop for a refund since there is no official word on a fix.
I now have a copy of Zelda with no Switch. Guess I'll be waiting until I hear something official from Nintendo before going Switch hunting. SMH. Thanks Nintendo.
I now have a copy of Zelda with no Switch. Guess I'll be waiting until I hear something official from Nintendo before going Switch hunting. SMH. Thanks Nintendo.