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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
- Start date
Head.spawn
Junior Member
Finally living that 1203 life. Just updated a minute ago.
Great news about the incoming GameMode HDR fix. That's been annoying for a long time.
edit
Great news about the incoming GameMode HDR fix. That's been annoying for a long time.
edit
Duchess O'Death
Member
Is the new update out in the US? I updated my TV with the Korean FW. Is there any difference?
mckmas8808
Mckmaster uses MasterCard to buy Slave drives
What is the HDR switching in Game Mode that people are talking about?
Other modes will automatically change your settings to where you had them while playing HDR content. So using the Netflix App on the TV (in Movie Mode), I select an HDR title and the Backlight automatically goes to 20 where I had it set and back down once I leave the HDR content.
This doesn't work for Game mode. Playing an SDR game and then switching to HDR content on PS4, for example, I have to go in and change Backlight to 20 myself. Then I manually lower it back down from 20 once I switch back from an HDR title.
With the update, it will work like it does in Movie mode, or anywhere else.
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
It's not in that update, but currently, the TV stores separate settings for HDR and normal under most of the TV's modes, except for game mode, which doesn't do this.
HDR requires backlight at 20 and SmartLED at High, among other tweaks that people might want to do, so when you play a game with HDR support in Game mode, then you have to make those adjustments yourself, and then switch them back afterwards. "Rudy1" on AVSForum has said that Samsung is going to fix this so that Game Mode also stores two sets of settings, one for HDR and one for normal, under Game Mode, which will eliminate a headache for KS8000 owners who game.
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
He's talking about two different things. The GameMode HDR fix is NOT in the 1203 update. The way his post reads is confusing, I know.
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
Yes, that's what Rudy1 on AVSForum said. I'm confused what your "Wait what???" was directed at. It seemed like you were expressing confusion.
I was confused then asked Rudy on AVS
I use Standard now but Ill definently switch back to game mode!
A few first impressions of 1203.6:
-Could always be placebo I guess, but it really does seem like they addressed judder somehow. The sensation from panning feels like there's more micro refreshes on objects that would be very distracting and feel 'painted on the screen' frame-by-frame as the background moved on the previous firmware. Now it all feels all a bit more organic and everything on the screen is 'together' and a part of the frame, if that makes any sense (people who experience this, it probably does...haha.) Maybe at a cost of detail on moving objects? Hard to say anything definitive, watching in daylight. It does seem better, or at least different. All I know is the judder has annoyed the hell out of me previously.
-Not getting network error messages when trying to start an app immediately after turning on the television. They just start now.
-App / input switching is quicker.
-The YouTube app is pulling all of my recent searches and suggesting previous search queries as I type in a search, all from searches I've previously done on my laptop. Pretty certain it didn't pull all of that before, and just kept searches you've done in the app? May just be an update to the app, and not from the firmware.
-Could always be placebo I guess, but it really does seem like they addressed judder somehow. The sensation from panning feels like there's more micro refreshes on objects that would be very distracting and feel 'painted on the screen' frame-by-frame as the background moved on the previous firmware. Now it all feels all a bit more organic and everything on the screen is 'together' and a part of the frame, if that makes any sense (people who experience this, it probably does...haha.) Maybe at a cost of detail on moving objects? Hard to say anything definitive, watching in daylight. It does seem better, or at least different. All I know is the judder has annoyed the hell out of me previously.
-Not getting network error messages when trying to start an app immediately after turning on the television. They just start now.
-App / input switching is quicker.
-The YouTube app is pulling all of my recent searches and suggesting previous search queries as I type in a search, all from searches I've previously done on my laptop. Pretty certain it didn't pull all of that before, and just kept searches you've done in the app? May just be an update to the app, and not from the firmware.
Head.spawn
Junior Member
Does anyone else have an issue where your Source labels change?
I swear, I've set my PS4 label at least 5-6 times over the past year and it keeps going back to the default of 'HDMI2/DVI'. The last time I changed it was a few days ago and now today it's defaulted again...
Is this the updates doing that?
Also, this thing seems to never lose my XBO input and I'm pretty sure when I bought the TV it auto-named the HDMI 1 to Xbox and put an Xbox controller logo on there. No idea how to do that with PS4.
I swear, I've set my PS4 label at least 5-6 times over the past year and it keeps going back to the default of 'HDMI2/DVI'. The last time I changed it was a few days ago and now today it's defaulted again...
Is this the updates doing that?
Also, this thing seems to never lose my XBO input and I'm pretty sure when I bought the TV it auto-named the HDMI 1 to Xbox and put an Xbox controller logo on there. No idea how to do that with PS4.
vatstep
This poster pulses with an appeal so broad the typical restraints of our societies fall by the wayside.
Same, it just randomly happens to me. And like you, it also auto-assigned the Xbox One name/icon, and that one has never reset.
I'm pretty sure they just have better built in support for Xbox. The XBO has IR, which allows the TV remote to control the system, so they have more incentive to properly support it as an input device.
Speaking of Xbox support, I wonder if this partnership with Xbox lit a fire under their ass to fix the HDR auto switching in game mode? Kind of hard to promote your line of TVs as the best place for 4K HDR gaming when they have major quality of life issues in game mode. Regardless, I'm glad it's finally happening.
Haha. This made me lol.
Major may be strong wording, but it's a big deal for a lot of people.
No worries, genuinely made me chuckle. Just think of all poor kids in Africa struggling with their HDR settings
Anyone using the Steam Link app?
Initial impressions are great - picture quality is surprisingly good, very few compression artefacts, and input lag seems to be minimal.
Spend a few minutes with a game though and you'll notice some horrible microstuttering. If I bring up the detailed statistics, everything seems to be running perfectly - no dropped frames, a stable framerate, no spikes in lag or anything. The game runs fine on the computer as well. The problem almost seems to be in the app itself, like the signal to the display stutters every now and then. Seems to happen with every game I've tried.
I have the settings set to balanced.
Initial impressions are great - picture quality is surprisingly good, very few compression artefacts, and input lag seems to be minimal.
Spend a few minutes with a game though and you'll notice some horrible microstuttering. If I bring up the detailed statistics, everything seems to be running perfectly - no dropped frames, a stable framerate, no spikes in lag or anything. The game runs fine on the computer as well. The problem almost seems to be in the app itself, like the signal to the display stutters every now and then. Seems to happen with every game I've tried.
I have the settings set to balanced.
mckmas8808
Mckmaster uses MasterCard to buy Slave drives
I have it on medium and it's fine to me. HIGH is just stupid though.
Consensus should always be what looks best to you. If you have a reasonably dark room you can get away with Dynamic Contrast off. Turning Dynamic Contrast on will inevitably have some negative effects to the HDR effects because of black/white crushing. Just have to weigh up whether you can actually notice the negative effects and if you do if you prefer it with DC on.
Personally have it off and counter the dullness slightly by upping the gamma to 1 and putting colour up to 60.
I still find that what i set it to veries from title to title. Everybody's Golf needed it, though I found High on Horizon to be a bit too much. It's always on though. For Netflix I always use it on Medium at least.
AMxKaOtIcDeV
Member
I tried out the app for a bit, quality was ok, nothing spectacular, the biggest drawback was the input lag i was feeling, this was on a wired connection. Could be ok for playing single player games etc, but not for twitch shooters etc.
Steelyuhas
Member
Yeah, it was a pleasant surprise to see you can pretty much do anything in media apps with the TV remote and don't have to touch the controller.
----
I got the 1203 firmware OTA in the US yesterday.
You can do the same on PS4, at least on the Pro.
Directions and center button works. Long pressing the back button on the remote brings up the Quick Menu to close apps, turn off the system, etc.
digitalrelic
Banned
Dynamic Contrast Low and Gamma +1 is the perfect setting for me. I've been messing with this setting multiple times a week since I got the set exactly a year ago, and this is the setting that I've finally settled on and haven't touched in months.
It's perfect. Adds punchiness and brightness without distorting the image in any noticeable way.
Garrett Hawke
Member
Doing A-B testing in The Witness convinced me that Dynamic Contrast being off is "right" for me. You can walk around the game with the Dynamic Contrast menu pulled up and switch it back and forth.
Dark hallways and shade were actually dark with it off, turning it to "Low" immediately made them feel lit, with the blacks turning grey. Anything above "Low" was bad.
Dark places looking dark without being represented as pure black is half of the HDR equation, IMO. You're sacrificing something by turning it on. May be different in other games, you just have to experiment. I just keep it off, though.
Yeah, you can turn the PS4 on / off, navigate the XMB and use the apps without touching a dualshock.
jerry0wilson
Member
Do all HDMI ports support 4K and HDR?
Yep.
How do you do this? Do you just go to Settings>Devices>Bluetooth Devices then just click on [TV] Samsung 8 Series?
The PS4 would have to go through CEC for remote functionality. So, make sure both the TV and PS4 have CEC active. I think it's called anynet on the TV. The XBO works via IR though. The TV just treats it as a recognized device that the remote can control. I connect my consoles directly to my TV though, so I'm not sure how if it also works when passing through a reciever.
DreadfulOmen
Member
Honestly, it never bothered me. It takes like 20 seconds to change a setting. Not a big deal to me.
I actually forgot I needed to do this to get it to work, but yeah, you need to set up CEC. I believe it's "Anynet+" in the Samsung menus, as well as the PS4 setting above. Will allow you to turn on the PS4 by selecting the input on the remote as well.
Bravestarr
Neo Member
I own the Samsung KS7090 which is the equivalent of the KS8000 in Europe. I am very satisfied with my decision to buy this tv for gaming. Mainly thanks to this thread here.
The only bad experience I currently have it with Sonic Mania on my PS4 Pro. It looks like it runs with 30 fps and I see some double images when scrolling gets really fast.
In stark contrast games like Wipeout Omega feels fluid and fast. I can't see double images or anything else. It is just crisp and looks gorgeous. Of course "game mode" is on which leaves me with no options to reduce judder in the settings.
Does anybody have the same experience? Or am I too sensible for that?
The only bad experience I currently have it with Sonic Mania on my PS4 Pro. It looks like it runs with 30 fps and I see some double images when scrolling gets really fast.
In stark contrast games like Wipeout Omega feels fluid and fast. I can't see double images or anything else. It is just crisp and looks gorgeous. Of course "game mode" is on which leaves me with no options to reduce judder in the settings.
Does anybody have the same experience? Or am I too sensible for that?
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
2D games, especially fast ones, are good at exposing the flaws of LCD technology. With something like Sonic, you are probably going to see some double-imaging on a TV like the KS8000 that has a pulsing backlight (PWM). This is because the screen simply can't change fast enough and the previous frame lingers on the screen after the next frame has been drawn. On a non-pulsing backlight like most classic LCDs, this would instead cause the image to "smear" when you went fast.
You can see the double-imaging effect in this screen-capture from RTINGS review of the KS8000: http://i.rtings.com/images/reviews/ks8000/ks8000-motion-blur-large.jpg
I'm not sure how OLED would handle this. In theory it should be better. Plasma was king when it came to this kind of refresh, but those are less of an option now.
I received the 1203 update OTA. Toronto, Canada.
OLED with its super fast response time should have less smear but it is still subject to sample-and-hold effect and that is not going away until they have a method to flicker the screen or a refresh rate way higher than what we currently have. TVs really could use a lot more gaming oriented features found on G-Sync displays.
US model. So for me in the Nordics it's a KS7005. Whoever decides on these model numbers and having different firmwares for various regions can go jump in a lake.
theclosetfan
Member
Anyone figure out a way to name the input for the Switch and not have it revert to HDMI 3 or whatever when you put it to sleep?
I wish you could just turn off the auto features on the inputs.
I wish you could just turn off the auto features on the inputs.