• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

LG promises HDR gaming input lag patch for 2016 OLED sets

since this now seems to be a general troubleshooting what-the-hell-is-up-with-LG-TV-settings thread, i was wondering if anyone had any advice re: HDR on newer LG LCDs?

i have an SJ8500, which is a 2017 mid-range LED that i'm pretty happy with, but the HDR game mode (on launch PS4) is super dark and i don't see how it could possibly be meant to look like this — sounds like the same problem as the OLEDs. is the difference between HDR game mode and standard mode HDR just input lag? because to me the latter looks good and doesn't feel bad, whereas the HDR game mode seemingly misses the whole point of HDR.

i'm willing to be told i'm seeing/feeling things wrong, though! would rather just set things up the right way and get used to it.
 

SOLDIER

Member
Sign up for the free Open DNS service. You should be able to filter out those URLs at the DNS level on the website. Then use their DNS servers and it'll block. I don't think you need the paid service, but if so it is only $20/year.

I tried following the instructions on their site: https://support.opendns.com/hc/en-us/articles/228007787

but their testing page says I still haven't managed to enable it (and I still get the notification on my TV).

Am I supposed to use the Open DNS updater software as well? If so, what do I need to put as the network?
 

killroy87

Member
All TVs should have like 12 HDMI inputs. If it’s a space issue, they need to make that a priority to figure out haha. This whole 3-4 inputs on average is bullshit. I have to resort to a shitty splitter that is super buggy.
 
Whats the best OLED tv on the market right now guys/gals? Looking for a new TV. I have an LG49uh661v which is 4K but looking to upgrade to OLED? Is it worth the extra cash? should I stick with what I have now? Help me GAF.
 

NYR

Member
Whats the best OLED tv on the market right now guys/gals? Looking for a new TV. I have an LG49uh661v which is 4K but looking to upgrade to OLED? Is it worth the extra cash? should I stick with what I have now? Help me GAF.
This years LG line up is effectively the same minus the bezel, stand and audio options.

The B7 and C7 are basically the same display but different stands. The E7 and G7 are the same display as the B7 and C7 but with audio - the E7 has an 40W 2.2 soundbar and the G7 has a full out 60W 4.2 sound bar.

Your choice comes down to design and speaker. The B7 is a warehouse exclusive (aka Costco).
 
This years LG line up is effectively the same minus the bezel, stand and audio options.

The B7 and C7 are basically the same display but different stands. The E7 and G7 are the same display but with audio - the E7 has an 40W 2.2 soundbar and the G7 has a full out 60W 4.2 sound bar.

Your choice comes down to design and speaker.

Nope, 2017's OLEDs have much less ABL than the 2016 models. Also better tone mapping.
 

NYR

Member
Nope, 2017's OLEDs have much less ABL than the 2016 models. Also better tone mapping.
????

I didn’t say they were the same as the 2016 models. I said they were the same displays through the 2017 models and highlighted the minor difference between the 2017 models.
 

Weevilone

Member
I tried following the instructions on their site: https://support.opendns.com/hc/en-us/articles/228007787

but their testing page says I still haven't managed to enable it (and I still get the notification on my TV).

Am I supposed to use the Open DNS updater software as well? If so, what do I need to put as the network?

Hopefully someone else can chime in. I don't have dynamic IP's, so I don't need that extra piece. You likely do.
 

killroy87

Member
Hey guys, I posted this in an Apple thread but wanted to post it here too, as it concerns the LG B6, and I was curious if anyone with one of those sets and an Apple TV 4K could offer any insight.

So I picked up an Apple TV 4K, and am having a fucker of a time figuring out the best settings for this thing. For reference, I have an LG B6 4K OLED tv, it's capable of doing both HDR10 and Dolby Vision.

After I set this thing up, I went into the picture settings to figure out how it works, and it's incredibly unintuitive. The video settings is just a massive list of compatible resolutions and HDR/SDR modes, and lets me pick which one I want to use. When I watch 4K content on my Netflix TV app, the TV itself will just smartly switch to the best option available (4K/Dolby Vision/HDR10/etc), but apparently here I need to choose?

Do I want 4K 24hz? I don't want any motion smoothing or any of that shit, so is there a reason I should choose 4K 60hz? I see it offers both HDR and Dolby Vision in 4K, does that mean I need to pay attention to what content I'm watching on iTunes or Netflix and switch between these as needed? Why won't it just smartly switch? If I don't want it to force HDR on SDR content, do I need to switch again?

I consider myself at least a solid 6.5/10 literate with shit like this, and maybe I'm being dumb but this seems unintuitive in an incredibly un-Apple fashion. I just want to tell the Apple TV what my TV is capable of, and then have it smartly switch between modes as needed to give me the best (and in terms of HDR and SDR, most accurate) picture possible. I don't give a fuck if my TV has to flash black for 2 seconds each time, that's the absolute least of my worries.
 

MrMephistoX

Member
On the topic of gaming monitors with low input lag...my trusty PS 3D Tv died mere days after I posted here that it was still chugging along after 4 years...

I want to replace it but not for a lot of $ can someone recommend a 240hz display of the same caliber? I had my eye on the Benq Zowie model in use at Capcoms tournaments but am worried it will look like shit compared to my PSTV.
 

Weevilone

Member
Hey guys, I posted this in an Apple thread but wanted to post it here too, as it concerns the LG B6, and I was curious if anyone with one of those sets and an Apple TV 4K could offer any insight.

So I picked up an Apple TV 4K, and am having a fucker of a time figuring out the best settings for this thing. For reference, I have an LG B6 4K OLED tv, it's capable of doing both HDR10 and Dolby Vision.

After I set this thing up, I went into the picture settings to figure out how it works, and it's incredibly unintuitive. The video settings is just a massive list of compatible resolutions and HDR/SDR modes, and lets me pick which one I want to use. When I watch 4K content on my Netflix TV app, the TV itself will just smartly switch to the best option available (4K/Dolby Vision/HDR10/etc), but apparently here I need to choose?

Do I want 4K 24hz? I don't want any motion smoothing or any of that shit, so is there a reason I should choose 4K 60hz? I see it offers both HDR and Dolby Vision in 4K, does that mean I need to pay attention to what content I'm watching on iTunes or Netflix and switch between these as needed? Why won't it just smartly switch? If I don't want it to force HDR on SDR content, do I need to switch again?

I consider myself at least a solid 6.5/10 literate with shit like this, and maybe I'm being dumb but this seems unintuitive in an incredibly un-Apple fashion. I just want to tell the Apple TV what my TV is capable of, and then have it smartly switch between modes as needed to give me the best (and in terms of HDR and SDR, most accurate) picture possible. I don't give a fuck if my TV has to flash black for 2 seconds each time, that's the absolute least of my worries.

Everybody wants this except Apple. They intentionally did this to avoid HDMI handshakes and TV indicators when modes switch. I've just been leaving mine SDR 60Hz most of the time, then swap to HDR or DV 24Hz when needed.
 

killroy87

Member
Everybody wants this except Apple. They intentionally did this to avoid HDMI handshakes and TV indicators when modes switch. I've just been leaving mine SDR 60Hz most of the time, then swap to HDR or DV 24Hz when needed.

What's the difference between 24hz and 60hz? Why would you want 60hz for a video streaming device?
 
Oh so turning on 60hz won't encourage motion smoothing or Hurt the picture in any way? Alright, that's good to know.

If your TV isn't capable of correctly extracting the 24p video from the 60p feed then you will get motion judder. To be safe I would run the Apple TV at 24p (who cares if the UI is a bit choppy).
 

la_briola

Member
All TVs should have like 12 HDMI inputs. If it's a space issue, they need to make that a priority to figure out haha. This whole 3-4 inputs on average is bullshit. I have to resort to a shitty splitter that is super buggy.

get an AV Receiver? something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HL8KYAY/?tag=neogaf0e-20

513byb9FEJL.jpg


8 HDMI inputs. If you want good sound you need one anyways...
 

holygeesus

Banned
Hey guys, I posted this in an Apple thread but wanted to post it here too, as it concerns the LG B6, and I was curious if anyone with one of those sets and an Apple TV 4K could offer any insight.

So I picked up an Apple TV 4K, and am having a fucker of a time figuring out the best settings for this thing. For reference, I have an LG B6 4K OLED tv, it's capable of doing both HDR10 and Dolby Vision.

After I set this thing up, I went into the picture settings to figure out how it works, and it's incredibly unintuitive. The video settings is just a massive list of compatible resolutions and HDR/SDR modes, and lets me pick which one I want to use. When I watch 4K content on my Netflix TV app, the TV itself will just smartly switch to the best option available (4K/Dolby Vision/HDR10/etc), but apparently here I need to choose?

Do I want 4K 24hz? I don't want any motion smoothing or any of that shit, so is there a reason I should choose 4K 60hz? I see it offers both HDR and Dolby Vision in 4K, does that mean I need to pay attention to what content I'm watching on iTunes or Netflix and switch between these as needed? Why won't it just smartly switch? If I don't want it to force HDR on SDR content, do I need to switch again?

I consider myself at least a solid 6.5/10 literate with shit like this, and maybe I'm being dumb but this seems unintuitive in an incredibly un-Apple fashion. I just want to tell the Apple TV what my TV is capable of, and then have it smartly switch between modes as needed to give me the best (and in terms of HDR and SDR, most accurate) picture possible. I don't give a fuck if my TV has to flash black for 2 seconds each time, that's the absolute least of my worries.

Any 4K DV sources eg Netflix, iTunes disc, Vudu Dolby Vision - 4K Dolby Vision 24hz
Any 4K HDR sources eg Netflix, iTunes, disc HDR - 4K HDR 24hz
Any HD film-based material - 4K SDR 24hz
YouTube - safest at 4K SDR 60hz

If you get any choppy playback with 24hz enabled then switch to 60hz.
 

Weevilone

Member
Any 4K DV sources eg Netflix, iTunes disc, Vudu Dolby Vision - 4K Dolby Vision 24hz
Any 4K HDR sources eg Netflix, iTunes, disc HDR - 4K HDR 24hz
Any HD film-based material - 4K SDR 24hz
YouTube - safest at 4K SDR 60hz

If you get any choppy playback with 24hz enabled then switch to 60hz.

And if like me, you are streaming sports from various sources, 60Hz SDR.

Honestly though, at this point I'm leaving it there and using for garbage viewing (PS Vue, YouTube TV), sports of all kinds. If I want to watch iTunes content then I switch to one of the 24Hz modes based on which DV/HDR/SDR is supported. If I'm lazy then it stays on 4K SDR.

If I'm being extra honest, I just use my Nvidia Shield TV or the built in LG apps for streaming, and UHD disk for movies. Since Apple dropped the ball, it's just for iTunes content.
 

killroy87

Member
Any 4K DV sources eg Netflix, iTunes disc, Vudu Dolby Vision - 4K Dolby Vision 24hz
Any 4K HDR sources eg Netflix, iTunes, disc HDR - 4K HDR 24hz
Any HD film-based material - 4K SDR 24hz
YouTube - safest at 4K SDR 60hz

If you get any choppy playback with 24hz enabled then switch to 60hz.

Thanks for this!

Just throwing it out there again how dumb this all is, haha. If this is what we need to go through, then they need to make this video format selection a much easier thing to switch on the fly. Going back to main menu every time is insanity.
 
yeah i thought i would want the new apple TV but nope, it's madness. i don't think there's any reason to use it over the built-in LG apps unless you plan to buy/rent a lot of itunes stuff.
 

Kyoufu

Member
yeah i thought i would want the new apple TV but nope, it's madness. i don't think there's any reason to use it over the built-in LG apps unless you plan to buy/rent a lot of itunes stuff.

Which is fine by me. One less HDMI port to use up for something that the TV itself can handle natively.
 

killroy87

Member
yeah i thought i would want the new apple TV but nope, it's madness. i don't think there's any reason to use it over the built-in LG apps unless you plan to buy/rent a lot of itunes stuff.

Yeah, iTunes pricing for 4K content is what pushed me over the edge. There are some insane deals, and even new releases are like $10 less than discs on average.
 
Which is fine by me. One less HDMI port to use up for something that the TV itself can handle natively.

yeah, my problem there is that it's hard to disconnect my 4th-gen altogether because i never know when i'll need it for airplay — right now i have it plugged into my xbox one's HDMI-in. i've used apple TVs to bypass bad TV interfaces for like six years, but now webOS is actually way better in most ways, so it's annoying to have to keep a pretty bad product around for occasional use.
 

holygeesus

Banned
yeah i thought i would want the new apple TV but nope, it's madness. i don't think there's any reason to use it over the built-in LG apps unless you plan to buy/rent a lot of itunes stuff.

As someone who said he would not buy one in it's current state, who then bought one in it's current state, it really isn't a big deal. You just leave it in 4K SDR 60 if you don't want to ever deal with 24hz mode, and you will likely not have to change the setting for days, only for the rare occasion you watch something in HDR or DV. Obviously your mileage may vary, but nigh on 90%+ of what you will be watching is SDR anyway.

The fact that Apple even provided a 24Hz mode this time round, should be applauded, no matter how finicky the current implementation is. At least it works!

The other small additions are great. As someone with a lot of cable subscriptions, the TV App manages to combine them all particularly usefully and intuitively. I was quite impressed by that.
 

Weevilone

Member
How do I find out if I do have dynamic IPs, and what do I need to do to get this working if that’s the case?

Unless you are paying extra for a static IP, then you likely don't have one. This is handled in different ways with different providers, but it's safe to assume you are dynamic.

If so, then you need that extra app so that OpenDNS can keep track of where you are, address wise. But like I said, I'm static so it's not something I can advise since I've not used it. I can't imagine it's too difficult.
 
As someone who said he would not buy one in it's current state, who then bought one in it's current state, it really isn't a big deal. You just leave it in 4K SDR 60 if you don't want to ever deal with 24hz mode, and you will likely not have to change the setting for days, only for the rare occasion you watch something in HDR or DV. Obviously your mileage may vary, but nigh on 90%+ of what you will be watching is SDR anyway.

The fact that Apple even provided a 24Hz mode this time round, should be applauded, no matter how finicky the current implementation is. At least it works!

The other small additions are great. As someone with a lot of cable subscriptions, the TV App manages to combine them all particularly usefully and intuitively. I was quite impressed by that.

i mean, the whole reason i'd be getting the box in the first place would be for its 4K and HDR content, so i don't quite think that 90% figure works out. i'm not in the US, though, and wouldn't be using any of the cable TV features, so that's a pretty big difference.

i'm glad they added a 24hz mode too, but no-one was asking for it to apply to the UI!
 

holygeesus

Banned
i mean, the whole reason i'd be getting the box in the first place would be for its 4K and HDR content

Unless you buy every film on the iTunes Store in 4K, then a lot of what you watch will be SDR. There isn't even really that much HDR/DV material on Netflix - even the 4K stuff a lot of time ignores it. If you are only getting it to watch 4K material, then leave it in that mode - simple.

In my experience it's more of a big deal to those not owning the machine than to those that do.
 
Just to clarify- what is the best firmware for a US B6? 4.31.10, 4.31.15, 4.31.20, or 5.30.03?

I’m honestly fine with most gaming in ISF dark, but if the game supports HDR I definitely want to enable it. That said, the lag is noticeable with HDR thus I believe 4.31.10 or later would be best since there’s HDR game mode thereafter.

So I guess what I’m asking is how can I avoid the glowing blacks yet obtain the best image all around? I’m looking for the best ISF dark mode/HDR game and standard mode firmware that doesn’t destroy the perfect blacks or make the HDR image too dim.
 

dark10x

Digital Foundry pixel pusher
Just to clarify- what is the best firmware for a US B6? 4.31.10, 4.31.15, 4.31.20, or 5.30.03?

I’m honestly fine with most gaming in ISF dark, but if the game supports HDR I definitely want to enable it. That said, the lag is noticeable with HDR thus I believe 4.31.10 or later would be best since there’s HDR game mode thereafter.

So I guess what I’m asking is how can I avoid the glowing blacks yet obtain the best image all around? I’m looking for the best ISF dark mode/HDR game and standard mode firmware that doesn’t destroy the perfect blacks or make the HDR image too dim.
4.31.20 is the best option. It has HDR game mode, no raised blacks and it fixes the motion judder problem.
 
Unless you buy every film on the iTunes Store in 4K, then a lot of what you watch will be SDR. There isn't even really that much HDR/DV material on Netflix - even the 4K stuff a lot of time ignores it. If you are only getting it to watch 4K material, then leave it in that mode - simple.

In my experience it's more of a big deal to those not owning the machine than to those that do.

yes, but literally the only content that the apple TV 4K would make available to me that i don't currently have access to is itunes 4K stuff, so that's the reason i'd be buying it.

along with LG having a stratospherically better remote, the mode-switching thing and automatic SDR conversion just guarantees that i wouldn't be able to stomach using it as my primary TV interface.
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
So I just sold my Sony 75” 940c and an consisdering getting either a 77” LG OLED77g7p or a 75” Sony Z9D.

This will be the primary living room TV, used for movies, games and PC use.

I’m worried about using my pc on an OLED given burnin is still a think (simple trip to the AVS forum shows the horror, dare I say it looks easier to burn in then mid-life plasmas?).

Anyone have any experience with the 77g7p?

So far my pro/con list:

LG Oled
+Oled, perfect blacks, perfect contrast
+perfect view angle
+great tv menu/smart system
+the design of the set is pretty nice
+motion handling
+color pop

-burn in, hella scared about it given LG won’t warranty for it.
-the base foldup speaker, will make wall mounting weird.
-It’s LG, not the best brand in the world
-quality control, lots of people on AVS complaining about vertical banding
-cost, looking at about $9k ish. Doesn’t phase me too much, but still even more than I paid for the 940c


Sony 75 z9d
+cheaper, can be had in the 6kish range
+no burn in worry
+best LED screen available
+near perfect blacks, but not as clean or perfect as an Oled
+super bright, and best HDR available.
+amazingly good Input lag scores, especially in 4kHDR

-motion trails, sub par in its pixel refresh rate, even for an LCD screen.
-Android TV is the worst TV smart system out there. Turkey terrible.
-Sony product support for tv’s is junk
-Poor motion handling across the screen unless you use BFI, which then kills the light output, which is its best feature.
-view angle is horrible.
 
Top Bottom