Novum_Veritas
Member
Weird, check if the drivers for the ethernet card are installed and if the cable is alright.
Not recommended but a easy method would be hold your finger between the fans
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
Weird, check if the drivers for the ethernet card are installed and if the cable is alright.
Not recommended but a easy method would be hold your finger between the fans
If installing the drivers requires putting in the disc than I'm out of luck because I don't have disc drive and don't a USB one either. Any other way? USB?
Checked the fans and it seems to be my PSU...
Novum_Veritas
Member
Is there huge amount of dust between the PSU fans?
What is the name of your mainboard? You could get the drivers via the companies website.
I have an ASRock AB350M Pro4. I also found an old wireless stick and can connect my PC with it. But it's slow to load.
Need to check the fans.
Novum_Veritas
Member
Novum_Veritas
Member
Glad it works now
Thank you very much!
Also, is there a way to check the frequenzy of my RAM?
Novum_Veritas
Member
Cato the Censor
Member
My wife and me both use computers to play (heavily! modded) minecraft together. My rig has no problem with our current mod setup, while hers is really struggling. She has a
Asus tek m5a78L-M +usb3 mainboard
Amd fx 6300 six core CPU
NVIDIA GTX 750 GPU
8GB RAM
It's a living room pc and it is showing its age. Is there any hope of upgrading it (not just for minecraft) or is it a hopeless case and we need a new mainboard/cpu/ram combination? Should we buy more RAM? It seems to be hard to get the right memory for this old mainboard.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Asus tek m5a78L-M +usb3 mainboard
Amd fx 6300 six core CPU
NVIDIA GTX 750 GPU
8GB RAM
It's a living room pc and it is showing its age. Is there any hope of upgrading it (not just for minecraft) or is it a hopeless case and we need a new mainboard/cpu/ram combination? Should we buy more RAM? It seems to be hard to get the right memory for this old mainboard.
Thanks in advance for any help.
opticalmace
Member
Stick your head in the case and determine where the sound is coming from. If that's too difficult unplug them systematically until you figure it out. Don't run the cpu without its fan though.
Novum_Veritas
Member
Does it use DDR 3 RAM?
SmartWaffles
Member
Unfortunately she is CPU bottlenecked, and upgrading this build with meaningful gain is probably unfeasible due to it being on lackluster last gen AMD CPU tech.
Cato the Censor
Member
Yes, though it seems that the RAM we have is not on the "recommended RAM" list.
Hmm, it seems that the RAM / the mainboard is acting up. If we put the two pieces of RAM into A1+B1, windows shows: 8 gigs, 4 useable. If we put them into B1+B2, it shows: 8 gigs, 8 useable. What gives?
Novum_Veritas
Member
Sounds like the board doesn't properly support dual channel, or the slots are different.
Cato the Censor
Member
I feared as much. Well, the only thing we could do, it seems, is to upgrade the RAM then and hope that's the problem (though i think the old CPU is also a problem), but the RAM seems to be acting up (see above)...
Already made out the culprit in the PSU.
Now I need to look tomorrow if the fans are dusty and if I can find a way to just exchange the unit and not do all the cabeling again...
The Wizard
Member
Hey guys, I've just installed a new GPU (GTX 1060 6GB) and in the process noticed my machine which I built back in early 2014 had gathered quite a lot of dust internally. I've gotten most of it out now but had no compressed air on hand so will need to pick some up and give it a thorough once over. Seems like of the exhaust fans in the case isn't spinning which may have exacerbated things. (There's one rear and one top 120mm fan)
Anyway the main problem I'm having is my CPU (i5-4670k @ 3.4ghz with stock cooler) is reaching high utilisation and temperatures quite easily. I was seeing spikes of 30-40% utilisation at idle and 65°c temp, whereas in the open world section of Watch Dogs 2 the CPU was spiking to a near constant 100% usage (70% of that being the games process itself) and temperatures of 95°c which is much higher than I'm comfortable with or would expect. Fan speed for CPU was something like 1300rpm I believe.
Changing settings to low had little effect. I'm noticing hiccups even outside of games e.g extracting large folders, lagging at startup.
Any ideas where the problem is most likely to lie? I'll look into the stationary case fan, but would that alone cause that much of a jump in temperature?
Perhaps I need to readjust the heatsink and reapply the thermal paste as I have not done that in the past 3 years. I'm not too sure if this is a sudden or gradual problem as the pc hasn't really been used outside of basic tasks in the past year or two.
Any advice appreciated as I'm still quite unfamiliar with debugging the hardware side of things.
Anyway the main problem I'm having is my CPU (i5-4670k @ 3.4ghz with stock cooler) is reaching high utilisation and temperatures quite easily. I was seeing spikes of 30-40% utilisation at idle and 65°c temp, whereas in the open world section of Watch Dogs 2 the CPU was spiking to a near constant 100% usage (70% of that being the games process itself) and temperatures of 95°c which is much higher than I'm comfortable with or would expect. Fan speed for CPU was something like 1300rpm I believe.
Changing settings to low had little effect. I'm noticing hiccups even outside of games e.g extracting large folders, lagging at startup.
Any ideas where the problem is most likely to lie? I'll look into the stationary case fan, but would that alone cause that much of a jump in temperature?
Perhaps I need to readjust the heatsink and reapply the thermal paste as I have not done that in the past 3 years. I'm not too sure if this is a sudden or gradual problem as the pc hasn't really been used outside of basic tasks in the past year or two.
Any advice appreciated as I'm still quite unfamiliar with debugging the hardware side of things.
Novum_Veritas
Member
The problem is probably the stock cooler, they are abysmal regarding efficient cooling. Also check if the thermal paste is still there. Also clean the fans.
opticalmace
Member
I'd suggest replacing the thermal paste, and making sure that the CPU heatsink is clear of dust. Other possibility is that it's running a high vcore unnecessarily, so you can check that out in the bios, but it's probably just the paste/heatsink.
I have a PC confession, after having built dozens of these over the years.
I was swapping motherboard and CPU (to 8700K) today. Everything went fine, had the board all seated and such.. all cables in place. I slotted the RAM and CPU.
The Noctua heatsink I use has a hefty retention bracket that has a plate behind the board. I put that in place and attached the front hardware. Arctic Silver 5 in place... and then it went shitty a bit.
I realized the CPU heatsink bracket was rotated 90 degrees, so I removed it. I managed to drop one of the thumbscrews, pick it up, put it on the carpet near me. I worked a bit more before realizing that both the screw and my finger now had AS5 all over it... and thus so did the carpet. Somehow I barely managed to smudge the stuff on the CPU so I decided to ignore that.
After spending some time with the carpet.. damn. The best I can figure is that scissors are the best tool for removing AS5 from carpet. I'm glad it had a bit of a pile to it.
TLDF: Got Arctic Silver 5 on my carpet. It sucks, so don't do it.
I was swapping motherboard and CPU (to 8700K) today. Everything went fine, had the board all seated and such.. all cables in place. I slotted the RAM and CPU.
The Noctua heatsink I use has a hefty retention bracket that has a plate behind the board. I put that in place and attached the front hardware. Arctic Silver 5 in place... and then it went shitty a bit.
I realized the CPU heatsink bracket was rotated 90 degrees, so I removed it. I managed to drop one of the thumbscrews, pick it up, put it on the carpet near me. I worked a bit more before realizing that both the screw and my finger now had AS5 all over it... and thus so did the carpet. Somehow I barely managed to smudge the stuff on the CPU so I decided to ignore that.
After spending some time with the carpet.. damn. The best I can figure is that scissors are the best tool for removing AS5 from carpet. I'm glad it had a bit of a pile to it.
TLDF: Got Arctic Silver 5 on my carpet. It sucks, so don't do it.
The Wizard
Member
This sounds like what I was thinking. On opening it up and inspecting further the cooler doesn't seem as tight as I would expect e.g pushing on of the post's causes the opposite end to ride just a smidge so I'm assuming it's sitting incorrectly. Not sure how that happened Will pick up thermal paste and try to reseat it although I was thinking I might just go ahead and ditch the stock cooler, pick up the Cooler master hyper 212 and look into overclocking once everything is stable. On that note is 3.4Ghz a bit low for modern games or do ye reckon the high utilisation is a side effect of the faulty cooling?
Thanks!
Novum_Veritas
Member
3.4 GHZ is fine for modern games, the high utilisation comes from.the bad cooling , try the hyper 212 or a noctua fan. Was always happy with Noctua.
Does anybody have any tips with how to undervolt an R9 Nano using only the Crimson Drivers Global WattMan? Kind of affraid to use MSI Afterburner and seeing how undervolting can be performed via WattMan makes it seem more reliable. Also my settings lists things as States instead of Frequencies. Right now the default setting goes like this:
I'm guessing State 7 is where it hits 1000Mhz (or full load, since sometimes it will throttle to maintain heat). I capped the heat output at 75C since I don't want my card to wear out.
- State 0: N/A
- State 1: 950 mV
- State 2: 956 mV
- State 3: 1081 mV
- State 4: 1125 mV
- State 5: 1162 mV
- State 6: 1200 mV
- State 7: 1240 mV
I'm guessing State 7 is where it hits 1000Mhz (or full load, since sometimes it will throttle to maintain heat). I capped the heat output at 75C since I don't want my card to wear out.
Phatosaurus
Member
Check the RPM they're spinning at.
Can't see it being the front 200mm fan though, that tends to be pretty quiet.
The 970, you can easily check if the noise ramps up when you're playing a game then it's likely that. Download MSI Afterburner if it is and set a custom fan curve.
The stock cooler on Ryzen is also pretty quiet in my opinion, but if it's set to go faster than it probably needs to then it'll be reasonably loud. You'll be able to set a different fan curve in the BIOS.
opticalmace
Member
I'd pick Intel myself.
Well the problem is if you were to go for Intel you'd have I settle for kaby lake until at least dec/Jan when coffee lake is in stock (and your kaby lake mobo will be obselete before you even buy it). And of course that would be just stupid when coffee lake us right around the corner. Ryzen on the other hand is in stock, the motherboard will last you at least 3 years and the gaming performance isn't too far behind (a lot of sources are claiming large performance gains/optimization a in Windows 10 fall creators update) and the multithreaded performance far surpasses kaby lake. Unless your pushing 144+Hz at 1080p, a 1600 would be a far better deal then a 7600k (I own a 7600k and regret everything).
And... it booted!!!! Woohoo! Thanks everyone for all your help!
Another question, though!
I have 16GB of DDR4 3000 MHz. The initial freq on boot was something like 1444 MHz. I went to the bios and set the MSI mobo setting ”Extreme Memory Profile" to enabled and now in HEInfo it shows the Mempry clock at 1500 MHz. Any idea why it's not at 3000?
Also, my DDR voltage was set to auto and reading 1.360-1.370V. Is that a problem? I tried setting it manually to 1.350V but it's still reading 1.360V.
Another question, though!
I have 16GB of DDR4 3000 MHz. The initial freq on boot was something like 1444 MHz. I went to the bios and set the MSI mobo setting ”Extreme Memory Profile" to enabled and now in HEInfo it shows the Mempry clock at 1500 MHz. Any idea why it's not at 3000?
Also, my DDR voltage was set to auto and reading 1.360-1.370V. Is that a problem? I tried setting it manually to 1.350V but it's still reading 1.360V.
Phatosaurus
Member
And... it booted!!!! Woohoo! Thanks everyone for all your help!
Another question, though!
I have 16GB of DDR4 3000 MHz. The initial freq on boot was something like 1444 MHz. I went to the bios and set the MSI mobo setting Extreme Memory Profile to enabled and now in HEInfo it shows the Mempry clock at 1500 MHz. Any idea why its not at 3000?
Also, my DDR voltage was set to auto and reading 1.360-1.370V. Is that a problem? I tried setting it manually to 1.350V but its still reading 1.360V.
Check it in task manager, it'll show as 3000mhz. I'm guessing you're running it in dual channel (two sticks), so it shows up as half speed.
IMACOMPUTA
Member
Thanks! I've read some really good stuff about it.
Do you remember if it comes with decent thermal paste?
If not, is arctic silver 5 still the stuff to get? It's been a while!
Why? For similar price all youre going to get is a 7600k, so 2 less cores and 8 less threads.
With 3200 memory and a 3.9 oc the ryzen would do as well as a 7600k in gaming and would be better at literally everything else.
Had my build of 4+ years randomly crash on me today and wouldn't power back on. After an entire evening of troubleshooting, I've concluded it had something to do with the gpu or something connected to it.
I'm using my CPU's onboard graphics now, and everything works fine except the CPU temp is around 88°C. I'm going to try picking up a new gpu tomorrow, but wanted to check in with gaf if I missed anything.
Also, what's the best budget gpu I can get right now that's VR ready?
Any help at all is appreciated
I'm using my CPU's onboard graphics now, and everything works fine except the CPU temp is around 88°C. I'm going to try picking up a new gpu tomorrow, but wanted to check in with gaf if I missed anything.
Also, what's the best budget gpu I can get right now that's VR ready?
Any help at all is appreciated
Bloodember
Member
If its failing with your gpu in it could also be a psu issue, try a new psu first as they are cheaper.Had my build of 4+ years randomly crash on me today and wouldn't power back on. After an entire evening of troubleshooting, I've concluded it had something to do with the gpu or something connected to it.
I'm using my CPU's onboard graphics now, and everything works fine except the CPU temp is around 88°C. I'm going to try picking up a new gpu tomorrow, but wanted to check in with gaf if I missed anything.
Also, what's the best budget gpu I can get right now that's VR ready?
Any help at all is appreciated
How does this 3D mark score look? Nothing is overclocked yet.
Also, my cpu max temps from RealTemp during the benchmark were: 75, 74, 78, 78. Isn't that bit high? Max GPU temp is 76.
Also, my cpu max temps from RealTemp during the benchmark were: 75, 74, 78, 78. Isn't that bit high? Max GPU temp is 76.
I figured it might have something to do with the psu or it's cables, but wasn't sure since it works fine with everything else connected.
I'll try a new psu first to see. Thanks
Bloodember
Member
No temps are fine, coffee lake runs hot.
Hmm interesting. That's with a 140mm intake fan, 120mm exhaust fan, and a Noctua NH-D15S, too. I'm a little concerned I put too much thermal paste on the CPU as I had to take the cooler off to plug in the CPU fans when I was building and saw some extra paste around the edge of the CPU's surface. I only put slightly less than the size of a pea though.
You can get her an FX-8350 CPU, which is a pretty good upgrade over the 6300 if you don't want to spend a ton.
opticalmace
Member
I meant coffee lake, as they are kind of in and out of stock. 8400 seems pretty solid.
Bloodember
Member
A pea size is all you need. I wouldn't worry about your temps though, they are fine. If you see a weird variation in your temps over the next couple of days, then go ahead and remove and reapply.
shanafan
Member
Looking for some input on monitors..
I have a 4K/60hz monitor connected to my Xbox One S and PC. When I tinker around with the 4K settings on the Xbox One S, my screen will turn black to adjust the settings. However, if I have my PC on, the monitor will auto detect the PC signal through DisplayPort and return to the desktop - changing the inputs. Since the input changed, my Xbox One S would give me an error, in theory because the input changed.
The best course I have found is to unplug the DP cable to my monitor from the PC, and everything goes smooth as butter with the Xbox One S.
I have an ASUS MG24UQ, and looking through the manual and online, haven't found much on this. I also have a GTX 1070 and Windows 10.
Any ideas? Thanks.
I have a 4K/60hz monitor connected to my Xbox One S and PC. When I tinker around with the 4K settings on the Xbox One S, my screen will turn black to adjust the settings. However, if I have my PC on, the monitor will auto detect the PC signal through DisplayPort and return to the desktop - changing the inputs. Since the input changed, my Xbox One S would give me an error, in theory because the input changed.
The best course I have found is to unplug the DP cable to my monitor from the PC, and everything goes smooth as butter with the Xbox One S.
I have an ASUS MG24UQ, and looking through the manual and online, haven't found much on this. I also have a GTX 1070 and Windows 10.
Any ideas? Thanks.
Wanted o boot up my new PC in order to continue the preload of Destiny 2 but then my PC decided to need multiple tries to get started and once it didn't restart immediatly, my monitor said "no HDMI signal.
What did I fuck up by changing RAM frequency (to 3200) and unplugging and replugging everything to check if my PSU fan is dusty (which it wasn't)?
Already used the finger method and pinpointed it was the PSU but I'll check out your methods. Thanks!
What did I fuck up by changing RAM frequency (to 3200) and unplugging and replugging everything to check if my PSU fan is dusty (which it wasn't)?
Already used the finger method and pinpointed it was the PSU but I'll check out your methods. Thanks!
opticalmace
Member
Might be unstable at 3200. Reset CMOS, will probably boot then. Or dial the ram back and see if it goes away. I'm guessing you used XMP? XMP won't always work, gotta do it manually if so.
I tried the jumper method since I couldn't find the battery and it booted up without restarting a few times but I still don't have a HDMI signal.
Changed cables. Need to check if I can get a signal with my SNES mini on my monitor. Other monitor might be difficult to check.
Edit: Nvm, Im dumb. Just remembered that I put the HDMI cable into the mobo instead of the GPU...
If you have an extra chassis fan pin on your motherboard, just put two front intake fans which helps a lot.
Atrociously bad SSDs are mostly a thing of the past so if you can get it significant discount compared than one of the tried-and-true budget SSDs in that price range (MX300, 850 EVO, WD Blue etc) go for it.