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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
If very near future, the GTX1070Ti which may be coming out soon.
Won't that one be supply limited and subsequently price-gouged for months as with most new GPUs? Kinda wanna sidestep that.
I don't see why. It's not a new generation like GTX1070 or new flagship like the GTX1080Ti.
ISee
Member
A 6600k is reaching the low-mid tier range by todays high end standard of 6+ cores, but it's still fast enough for 60 FPS in most scenarios, especially overclocked. In other words: you can go for even a high end 1080ti, if you want to.
For the rest it depends on the resolution and the settings you want to reach.
Full HD:
1060 - 60 FPS at highish settings, an upgrade over your 970 but not a huge one.
1070 - 60 FPS at reasonable ultra settings.
1080 - 144 FPS at high settings or 60 at ultra settings or downsampling (would need a better CPU though).
1440p
1070 - 60 FPS at medium to high settings.
1070Ti/1080/vega - 60 fps at reasonable ultra settings.
1080Ti - ultra settings or 100+ gsync gaming
4k
1070 - 30 fps at high/Ultra
1080p - 60 fps at Medium
1080Ti - 60 fps at high
Of course that's not true for all games, and just meant as a guideline. Also keep in mind: new Q4/2018 games will be more demanding then 2017 games. This means a 1060 will be good enough for high settings now but 'just' 'medium' in 1-2 years.
If you are playing at 1080p get at least a 1070 or Vega 56. A 1070Ti or 1080 would of course also make sense and would most probably allow you to play without hassle till the next console generation launches in 2019/20. As already mentioned especially the 1070Ti, if found for the original MSRP, would be an excellent upgrade over your 970 (~60% stronger).
This is great info. I think I'm just gonna say fuck it and go with a 1080 Ti. Can get one for 780 which doesn't seem too bad.
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
Note that for 4k gaming you can use subnative resolutions like 1800p to get 60fps with fewer compromises, while still looking good on your 4k screen.
My TUF (don't judge, availability issue) has a couple borked SATAs plus stability issues.
Bro hug.
Is it OK to flash a bios to an older version. My current bios is refusing any sort of OC or even a down clock. I'm not the only one it seems from reading msi forums. So any reason why I shouldn't?
Edit: thought I'd update just incase anyone else having the same problem. Well I flashed my bios to an older version and it's now working as it did again. I'll just have to wait till there is an update that sorts the problem I had before. Just happy it's all as it was again.
Edit: thought I'd update just incase anyone else having the same problem. Well I flashed my bios to an older version and it's now working as it did again. I'll just have to wait till there is an update that sorts the problem I had before. Just happy it's all as it was again.
If I get one of the compact, top flowing Be Quiet air coolers, would I need to move the case's rear-facing exhaust fan to the top or can it stay where it is?
Uh oh. I have the same motherboard. I'll find out this weekend...
So turns out I've got around £1000 to buy/build a new pc.
Currents specs were 2500k @4.4 / 7970GE / 8GB ram
But the gpu died.
I've not really followed gpu/cpu advancements over the last few years, what sort of cpu / gpu combo should I go for that works into my £1000 budget.
1080p would be the target as can't afford a new monitor just now on top of the pc.
Currents specs were 2500k @4.4 / 7970GE / 8GB ram
But the gpu died.
I've not really followed gpu/cpu advancements over the last few years, what sort of cpu / gpu combo should I go for that works into my £1000 budget.
1080p would be the target as can't afford a new monitor just now on top of the pc.
Busta SMurk
Member
GAF, probably a dumb question, but this is my first PC build and I'm looking at ram that's on sale, I want to know if it'll be compatible with everything else.
Ryzen 1600
ASUS TUF B350M-PLUS
RAM in question: https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produ...G.SKILL_Ripjaws_V_16GB-_-20-232-174-_-Product
I'm asking because I saw in the header, it's "Intel Z170 Platform / Intel X99 Platform" specific, so does that mean it's not compatible, or is it just optimized for, or what's the deal.
Also, any ram suggestions would be great, I want reliable RAM, at least 8gb for now, with an easy upgrade to 16 in the future, or 16gb now if I can get a good deal from somewhere.
edit: also an aside here, Ryzen vs Kaby. I was looking at either the Ryzen 1600, or the i5-7500 and trying to determine which would be best for gaming, accounting for the next couple-few years. They are about the same price here, I'm leaning Ryzen, because the extra cores and threads. Is this a reasonable conclusion?
Ryzen 1600
ASUS TUF B350M-PLUS
RAM in question: https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produ...G.SKILL_Ripjaws_V_16GB-_-20-232-174-_-Product
I'm asking because I saw in the header, it's "Intel Z170 Platform / Intel X99 Platform" specific, so does that mean it's not compatible, or is it just optimized for, or what's the deal.
Also, any ram suggestions would be great, I want reliable RAM, at least 8gb for now, with an easy upgrade to 16 in the future, or 16gb now if I can get a good deal from somewhere.
edit: also an aside here, Ryzen vs Kaby. I was looking at either the Ryzen 1600, or the i5-7500 and trying to determine which would be best for gaming, accounting for the next couple-few years. They are about the same price here, I'm leaning Ryzen, because the extra cores and threads. Is this a reasonable conclusion?
Newegg's shell shocker is p good right now, a 7800X + MSI x299 SLI Plus motherboard for 469 after a 30 dollar rebate. 7800x might not make much sense at normal prices but for this price....... I'm in.
https://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=Homepage_SS-_-P8_3615536-_-10192017&Index=8
https://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=Homepage_SS-_-P8_3615536-_-10192017&Index=8
Phatosaurus
Member
PCPartPicker part list: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/FG4Mjc
Price breakdown by merchant: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/FG4Mjc/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (£178.50 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 Quad Lumi 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler (£59.99 @ CCL Computers)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£71.24 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£149.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£128.28 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Dual Video Card (£256.80 @ Aria PC)
Case: Fractal Design - Define Mini C TG MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£84.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA - B3 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£56.82 @ CCL Computers)
Total: £986.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-10-19 14:48 BST+0100
A lot of the parts are probably better than you'd need, but, eh, you've got a grand so why not?
Seriously though, you could easily drop the cooler entirely if you don't want to overclock or just get something cheaper. The case is pretty expensive too, could easily get something for a third of the price or reuse your current case. There's also cheaper 1060's availible, but I picked that one because it looks nice.
Also, you could just replace your current GPU and call it a day unless your 2500K is feeling a bit long in the tooth.
Thanks for that. I'll give it a look later.
Azzurri
Member
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/evga-g...ontent=1508411044618.801427941862515863413081
Pretty good deal on this 1080ti
Pretty good deal on this 1080ti
Not sure if this is the best place to ask, but I recently got the Acer Predator XB1 27" and I'm running into some issues.
For one, I get a black screen 90% of the time when I wake up my PC from sleep. The power LED is on, I can see the screen being "on" (not total black like when it's off), but there's nothing on the screen. No "no signal message", can't even bring up the OSD. It's just a blank screen. I'm using the DP cable that came with the monitor, plugged into a GTX 970. I had it happen with my multi-monitor set up, tried disconnecting all other monitors but still nothing. I can get it to work sometimes by power cycling the XB1 with it's back power button or by restarting the PC. It started happening right from the get go - opened the box, tried plugin in DP and HDMI devices and had no picture at all until the power cycle.
Another issue, once I actually get a picture working, is getting the refresh rate to 144. Using the OSD display setting (yellow number in the top right corner), it shows the RR as 60, even though Nvidia Control Panel is set to 144. I'm not sure if there's a setting I am missing, but when I turn on overclocking, the display does change to 150 or whatever it's set to.
Resolution is 2560x1440. G-sync mode is on. Not sure if it's a faulty monitor or maybe 970 is not pulling its weight here, but would appreciate any insight.
For one, I get a black screen 90% of the time when I wake up my PC from sleep. The power LED is on, I can see the screen being "on" (not total black like when it's off), but there's nothing on the screen. No "no signal message", can't even bring up the OSD. It's just a blank screen. I'm using the DP cable that came with the monitor, plugged into a GTX 970. I had it happen with my multi-monitor set up, tried disconnecting all other monitors but still nothing. I can get it to work sometimes by power cycling the XB1 with it's back power button or by restarting the PC. It started happening right from the get go - opened the box, tried plugin in DP and HDMI devices and had no picture at all until the power cycle.
Another issue, once I actually get a picture working, is getting the refresh rate to 144. Using the OSD display setting (yellow number in the top right corner), it shows the RR as 60, even though Nvidia Control Panel is set to 144. I'm not sure if there's a setting I am missing, but when I turn on overclocking, the display does change to 150 or whatever it's set to.
Resolution is 2560x1440. G-sync mode is on. Not sure if it's a faulty monitor or maybe 970 is not pulling its weight here, but would appreciate any insight.
Bustanen
Member
It will work but only at low speeds. Ryzen gets massive speed boosts with fast RAM. If you're going to be gaming @ 1080p you should get samsung b-die sticks like these: https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232530&cm_re=flare_x-_-20-232-530-_-Product
i5-7500 doesn't hold a candle to R5 1600. Get i5-8400 when cheaper boards are available if you want Intel.
At 1080p, unless you are seeing CPU issues, I'd just slap a new 570 in it, and wait for 'whats next' for a rebuild. (but thats me, and the suggested build above by someone else looks nice)
Well, if you are going to mainly play at 1080, do you even need an upgrade? I like new parts as much as anyone, but being a 1080/60 PC gamer too, I try to keep my hardware built to only provide what the monitor can support (with a couple years of 'future proofing" baked in)
ss_lemonade
Member
If youre playing with a large enough screen like say, a 4k TV, you can even get away simulating something like 21:9 and still have it look really good and way less demanding than 4k. Its what I do with my 65in Samsung, 3440x1440
Disregard the crushed blacks, had the wrong black level set there.
That drop ended quick!
Rad Shadow
Banned
Hi guys.
Do you have any suggestions on a good headset + Mic for my pc?
Windows 10 if that matters. Pc is brand new, just need something to talk with my friends with now.
I'm using my ps4 headphones right now, but the Mic doesn't work, the wire is too short and the ear muffs bother my ears.
So yeah, looking to upgrade!
Do you have any suggestions on a good headset + Mic for my pc?
Windows 10 if that matters. Pc is brand new, just need something to talk with my friends with now.
I'm using my ps4 headphones right now, but the Mic doesn't work, the wire is too short and the ear muffs bother my ears.
So yeah, looking to upgrade!
Busta SMurk
Member
Thank you! The reason why it was a tossup, between the i5-7500 the 1600 is ~$20 difference (here in Canada) I can't seem to even find a retailer with the i5-8400 in stock, but it's certainly worth me waiting for if it's going to be worth it.
And I had no idea RAM was that complicated, I mean, it makes sense. I'm using pcpartpicker, and it doesn't differentiate sometimes.
IMACOMPUTA
Member
All of my parts are shipping today or tomorrow. Already got the RAM last week. Excited!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Scythe - FUMA Rev.B 79.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock - Fatal1ty Z370 Gaming K6 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($161.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Flare X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($190.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $352.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-10-19 11:53 EDT-0400
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Scythe - FUMA Rev.B 79.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock - Fatal1ty Z370 Gaming K6 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($161.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Flare X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($190.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $352.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-10-19 11:53 EDT-0400
Ack, more size issues. I just realized the Phanteks Eclipse P400 case doesn't have room for a 140mm fan in the rear. Between this and the Noctua NH-D15S likely not fitting, I'm not sure if I should buy a larger case or buy a smaller fan and cpu cooler. I'm going to look into it but I know the 120 mm fan will be louder, and a quiet PC under load is one of my priorities with this build.
Link to my build
Link to my build
Just upgraded from a 2500k @ 4.2ghz to Ryzen 1600 . Even at stock speed its already crushing the 2500k on games like Crysis 3 (jumped almost 20fps in the grass area) , Dishonored 2 and Divinity 2 . Both setup with GTX 1070 at 3440x1440 where there's usually GPU limitation .
My recommendations would be to:
1) Favor shorter RAM sticks over taller ones unless you want to water cool. It's just a general good practice since you'll want to re-use the RAM.
2) Examine the motherboard's QVL to see if the RAM you are buying is tested
3) Examine the RAM sticks QVL to see if the motherboard you are buying is tested
4) Grab your ankles and hope to be on the receiving end of a good integrated memory controller in your CPU sample
Bloodember
Member
Most likely, nothing.
Started assembling my new PC parts. Bit trickier than I thought and cable management seems like the thing I plan on doing but then never do and rather just look at the cables. Have to continue tomorrow to get the SSD and GPU out of my old PC. I shouldn't need to reinstall Windows 10, right?
Also, my biggest fear is that I trashed something while putting everything together but I won't know until tomorrow evening.
Also, my biggest fear is that I trashed something while putting everything together but I won't know until tomorrow evening.
Flying Toaster
Member
Nothing at all... I am still bitter paying msrp on a 1080ti. First time I have paid at cost for a GPU since 2000. Since I purchased the 1080ti it went up in price.
If it has gddr5x, it will actually probably make 1070 prices go up lol, especially if the 1070 is eol.
Im mining about $3 a day with 2 1070s, which is a far cry from a few months ago but still worth doing. Gddr5x would basically make it a 1080 which is shit for mining, and the ti is just too expensive for any ROI.
IonicSnake
Banned
A bit confused about the Z370 motherboards, why are there a bunch of identical motherboards but with a different letter in the name? Like I, F, E and so on. Whats the difference?
First is form factor - eg ITX (I), mATX(G), ATX (F), EATX
IonicSnake
Banned
Nice choice on the CPU cooler, love my scyhte fuma.
Kinda wish I went with low profile ram when I bought my PC years ago, or bought a Mugen 5 ;_;
Where? What?
mindfactory (germany) has a deal going. Also the 8700k dropped to like 380 for a short while so I was like fuck it and ordered.
Rebel Leader
THE POWER OF BUTTERSCOTCH BOTTOMS
I just got a phanteks case
I was looking around when innoticed a "12 volt input"
What does this hook up to?
I was looking around when innoticed a "12 volt input"
What does this hook up to?
I need a little help because my PC works and boots but won't connect to the internet. I'm using Powerline adapters and yesterday they were working fine on my old PC. Windows 10 said I should connect my PC to the internet to get more help.
Lights in the back are lighting up and I don't know what to do.
Lights in the back are lighting up and I don't know what to do.
Novum_Veritas
Member
Try unplugging and replugging the power line adapters, also check if the led's are blinking on your mainboard(yellow and orange)
So this whole time I thought my Corsair liquid cooler was making all the noise in my loud ass desktop. I just assumed it was the cooler because it was the first one I got and it sounded almost like constant running water (plus at times it seemed to happen alongside the sound the pump makes).
Turns out, the running water sound is coming from my Gigabyte GTX 1080! WTF. I pulled it out and there is what looks like oil residue around the screws on the top of the shield. My first though is that the cooler leaked on it but that doesn't appear to be the case.
Anyway, that noise must be coming from one of the three fans, right? Any suggestions on what I should do?
Turns out, the running water sound is coming from my Gigabyte GTX 1080! WTF. I pulled it out and there is what looks like oil residue around the screws on the top of the shield. My first though is that the cooler leaked on it but that doesn't appear to be the case.
Anyway, that noise must be coming from one of the three fans, right? Any suggestions on what I should do?
RumblingRosco
Member
If it's under warranty, contact the company. They'll probably ask you to RMA it and they'll fix it or give you a new one (or a refurbished one, depends on the company). Certainly doesn't sound like something that should be happening.
Fans are quite loud. Are these from my 970, Ryzen 7 1700 or my case (Thermaltake Core V21)? How can I find out?
Unplugged and replugged them but it did nothing. Yellow light is blinking occasionally but not the orange one.
Unplugged and replugged them but it did nothing. Yellow light is blinking occasionally but not the orange one.