The Lamonster
Member
GCN is my go-to.
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Bicycle age
- Thread starter elrechazado
- Start date
Is there a website that lists a ton of wheels and lets me filter based on stuff like tubeless compatible, material etc.
Full carbon clincher, rim brake, tubeless, 50mm deep. Does that exist
Or is carbon rim braking and tubeless hard to achieve. I see Prime (i think they are Chain Reactions own brand) have it. Looking at the big wheel guys, Zipp+Mavic neither seem to. Zipp have tubeless support on their 303 disc brake version.
Full carbon clincher, rim brake, tubeless, 50mm deep. Does that exist
Or is carbon rim braking and tubeless hard to achieve. I see Prime (i think they are Chain Reactions own brand) have it. Looking at the big wheel guys, Zipp+Mavic neither seem to. Zipp have tubeless support on their 303 disc brake version.TarpitCarnivore
Member
Is there a website that lists a ton of wheels and lets me filter based on stuff like tubeless compatible, material etc.
Full carbon clincher, rim brake, tubeless, 50mm deep. Does that exist
Enve might have something, but I think you're going to need to check cross centric brands. I don't think road first companies have fully embraced tubeless yet.
Psychotext
Member
I know a good few of the people in this vid.
Highland Trail 550 - 2017 Group Start
(and yes, that is a tandem)
Highland Trail 550 - 2017 Group Start
(and yes, that is a tandem)
Is there a website that lists a ton of wheels and lets me filter based on stuff like tubeless compatible, material etc.
Full carbon clincher, rim brake, tubeless, 50mm deep. Does that exist
Reynolds has the Strike, which is 62mm deep or the Assault, which is 41mm deep. But no 50mm rims. Both are tubeless.
https://reynoldscycling.com/wheels/Strike_V4
I have the previous generation Strike SLG, and they're amazing. IN the previous gen they had a tubeless compatible version and a tube version. I got the tube version since they were only $1300. But the whole Reynolds wheel line is quite inexpensive (for what it is).
Giant also makes carbon wheels in tubeless compatible. Not sure how much aero testing they go through, though, since it isn't their main business. You can find take-offs for sale sometimes.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/slr-0-carbon-aero-road-black
Giant TCR Advanced Pro by shapegsx, on Flickr
T8SC
Member
Is there a website that lists a ton of wheels and lets me filter based on stuff like tubeless compatible, material etc.
Full carbon clincher, rim brake, tubeless, 50mm deep. Does that exist
I don't think there's a website to list every wheel & their specifications as you listed above.
Fulcrum & Shimano do a range of wheels, from aluminium, carbon/alu, full carbon, clincher, tubeless (or both), various depths etc.
I run Fulcrum Racing Zero, tubeless of course. Can't fault them, brilliant climbing wheels, no good for a TT though or other flat races
Prime seem good value for money, I toyed with them for my winter bike, but Shimano RS610 are probably the better option in that kinda price range, or the Ultegra wheelset if you have another £75 spare.
DT Swiss also do a good range of wheels and I'm pretty sure most are tubeless compatible and have disc options too. I used to have a set of DT Swiss RR1450's, very light, tubeless but did flex slightly under power on climbs.
Unfortunately though you'll just have to research and hunt around to find something that suits your requirements, IE: Climbers wheel, TT wheel, general purpose, tubeless etc Just remember if you buy a proper carbon wheel, with a carbon brake track, you need carbon pads. (Unless its disc).
You can convert most (perhaps all) wheels to tubeless with a variety of kits.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I'm a noob with some gear stuff but I believe the beed depth is super crucial to a tubeless set up. You need those puppies to be locked in and if the depth is not good they're going to burb
T8SC
Member
I'll just add, I've never converted a clincher to tubeless so I can't give an opinion about reliability, safety, ride quality etc. I know several people who have and they've not had any problems that I know of.
I bought the tubeless version of my wheels regardless of what others said/did.
I bought the tubeless version of my wheels regardless of what others said/did.
Why aren't you doing it?
Psychotext
Member
Next year. Leadville is my major event this year.
Anyone have suggestions on a consistently leaky valve on a tubeless setup? Have tried switching valves, but seem to have the same problem - air slipping out between the pressure fit of rim and washer - no matter how loose or tight it fits. Sealant doesn't seem to be helping. My other setups are doing great, so I'm baffled.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Did you make sure to have a gasket on there? I"ve never had an issue with it until my cores got clogged up.
Please don't die
http://l283s3pxq2ktw6gs37ski16ee.wp...12/Leadville-Trail-100-MTB-Course-Profile.jpg
How long do you expect that to take? Also, how did you secure your entry?
You guys are making me think a lot. Reynolds do look like a pretty nice option. 50mm and tubeless. So will research the Reynolds. Reynolds and Prime, they are entirely different budgets and I think I need to decide if something is worth double the price. I ride flat areas and I enjoy riding flats. Extensive hills don't come too often.
I'm not looking for climbing wheels right now, will do once I live in hilly areas or go on a proper holiday to Austria with my bike again. Might be quite soon so will keep tabs on those climbing wheels too..
Don't think I want to try converting to tubeless on road wheels. The high pressures would make me feel a bit uneasy. Don't want to have the fear of them blowing out at speed. Back to researching I go.
I'm not looking for climbing wheels right now, will do once I live in hilly areas or go on a proper holiday to Austria with my bike again. Might be quite soon so will keep tabs on those climbing wheels too..
Don't think I want to try converting to tubeless on road wheels. The high pressures would make me feel a bit uneasy. Don't want to have the fear of them blowing out at speed
. Back to researching I go.TarpitCarnivore
Member
Anyone here able to help me further understand what might contribute to different feel in a tire beyond pressure, pattern & weight? I hoped on a bike, briefly, that had a different set (GK HK) of Panaracer tires from my own (Homage). The GK HK's felt a lot more lively and peppy, despite having a slightly less tighter pattern in the middle. The only thing I can seem to find from looking at stuff online is the GK HK tires are 100-150g lighter (per tire) than my Homages, so 200-300g total.
i'd assume the compounds, casings and beads play a large role as well
the black chilli compound that continental uses in the 4000s tires is large part as to why it has such amazing grip and low rolling resistance for example. the pattern itself doesn't seem to matter much since the loss in performance is marginal if you were to mount the tires facing the wrong rotational direction.
the black chilli compound that continental uses in the 4000s tires is large part as to why it has such amazing grip and low rolling resistance for example. the pattern itself doesn't seem to matter much since the loss in performance is marginal if you were to mount the tires facing the wrong rotational direction.
Psychotext
Member
I'm going for sub 10 hours, but it's going to be difficult because I haven't done a qualifier and I'm going to be held up by a few hundred riders going a LOT slower than me (starting in the white corral). As for getting in, thankfully I got in via the lottery. I didn't want the expense of having to travel to America to do a qualifier (they should really have a nominated one in Europe).
Unrelated... fuck long VO2 max intervals. I'm really not built for them, especially when I haven't been doing weights for a while.
That sounds like quite a feat. That 3000ft of climbing over what looks to be about 8 miles alone looks like it would destroy most people. Coming back down the other side will probably be pretty treacherous, too. Good luck and try to take some pictures on top of those climbs!
Psychotext
Member
Biggest problem is the elevation. Robs you of about a third of your power output.
Have you invested in one of those training masks?
Psychotext
Member
No, they don't do shit, other than make you suffer. The real key is sleeping at altitude, training at sea level... and as such, I have a oxygen tent being rented for a month before I head over.
LEGAL EPO, ALL FOR ME!
LEGAL EPO, ALL FOR ME!
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I'm assuming that beading and compound is definitely different which explains the 100+g weight difference. I like the Homage tires and how they sit up on the rims, but I do miss that smooth easy roll from stopped that I got from straight Panaracers.
That sounds right up your alley! XD
Psychotext
Member
Ha. I generally do it with some purpose.
Psychotext
Member
No-where near as fancy. lol
I at least get to sleep in a normal bed though.
I at least get to sleep in a normal bed though.
Psycho, you are way too dedicated to the sport. Did get close to going pro or maybe something like that?
On another note, I had chance to ride Zipp 404 today for about 20k. They feels so damn nice, pretty light and feel like they just keep rolling forever. Braking does feel quite odd to me having never really given carbon rims a ride, just literally down a road before.
and for anyone looking to buy a bike soon, might be worth waiting for new Ultegra just to have the latest fancy thing http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/...l&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer
On another note, I had chance to ride Zipp 404 today for about 20k. They feels so damn nice, pretty light and feel like they just keep rolling forever. Braking does feel quite odd to me having never really given carbon rims a ride, just literally down a road before.
and for anyone looking to buy a bike soon, might be worth waiting for new Ultegra just to have the latest fancy thing http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/...l&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer
Psychotext
Member
No, I started way too late for that sadly.
I just like challenging myself now, and this is a great way to do it.
I just like challenging myself now, and this is a great way to do it.
The Lamonster
Member
I ended up getting Prizm daily polarized and my reaction was the same. These prizm lenses are legit as hell. I'd like to try the road version and compare, even though it doesn't match my kit ;p
Cpt.Underpants
Member
Looking to go back to cycling and thought of purchasing a hybrid/road bike. I haven't cycled for a decade since I started living here in Scotland. And I'm really missing a lot stuff that I need to see here Scotland after a recent drive with a friend. And I live in the Scottish Borders. I kind of know the highway code since I took the theory and practical tests and passed them.
Got a budget of £1400 to £1500 that's not including the accessories (pedals,reflective jackets, safety helmets and what not). I need a bicycle that could carry a little bit of load.
Where do I start? Is there a guide for beginners when it comes to the parts of the bike?
Got a budget of £1400 to £1500 that's not including the accessories (pedals,reflective jackets, safety helmets and what not). I need a bicycle that could carry a little bit of load.
Where do I start? Is there a guide for beginners when it comes to the parts of the bike?
T8SC
Member
I've been offline all day and still nobody has mentioned the newly unveiled Shimano Ultegra R8000 groupset?
Shimano Ultegra R8000
Shimano Ultegra R8000 Vs 6800
Shimano Ultegra R8000
Shimano Ultegra R8000 Vs 6800
frontieruk
Member
Not sure carbon wheels would survive the roads by me
See first quote
Frames steel / aluminum / carbon
Chain sets Claris / sora / tiagra /105 / ultegra / dura ace (other manufacturers are available depending on bike manufacturer but its generally Shimano)
Brakes pad or disc (more complex but in a nutshell)
Everything else is generally Manufacturers own
I've listed in lower to best order (I think)
Weight manufacturers usually give a max weight for the rider plus a weight for baggage if supported. My carbon bike is good to 125kg (19.5 stone) for the rider just to give some idea of what you can expect to see.
Cpt.Underpants
Member
Thank you
isaacnukem
Member
Is it still possible to learn how to bike as an old person?
Sure it is. I often read post on reddit about how they taught themselves as an adult or get a friend to teach them. Never to late. I reckon best way would be if you had a good teacher. I taught my sister after she got quite a bit older how to ride a bike. Had her riding within a day.
frontieruk
Member
Why wouldn't it be? The older gents round by me put a lot of the younger riders to shame
Psychotext
Member
Bikepacking is an older gentlemen's game as a general rule. I know loads of guys who didn't start (including cycling) until their 50s and 60s.
Mostly because you need to be a bit tougher than average and nothing gives you toughness quite like age.
But yeah, it might take a little longer, but you can learn the basics of cycling at any age and take it from there. Just remember, kids heal faster.
Mostly because you need to be a bit tougher than average and nothing gives you toughness quite like age.
But yeah, it might take a little longer, but you can learn the basics of cycling at any age and take it from there. Just remember, kids heal faster.
isaacnukem
Member
Learn to ride from scratch, sadly.
How old is a bit older? I have willing instructors.
Well it's much more harder to learn as an adult I think, I'm much more scared of falling and hurting myself now.
Thanks, I need to steel myself. I really want to learn how to bike since I love traveling in all its forms.Bikepacking is an older gentlemen's game as a general rule. I know loads of guys who didn't start (including cycling) until their 50s and 60s.
Mostly because you need to be a bit tougher than average and nothing gives you toughness quite like age.
But yeah, it might take a little longer, but you can learn the basics of cycling at any age and take it from there. Just remember, kids heal faster.
Regarding my sister, probably not the answer you are looking for. She was in her late 20s..
but there really is nothing physically stopping you from learning even if you are much older. Falling off a bike is quite hard when learning even, at low speeds you can always get your foot down and at high speeds a bike just won't tip over. You don't want to get your foot down because part of the learning is that a bike won't fall over and seeing that a bike will just stay straight with minimal input from you, but should you need to put foot down it's always there. Should be wearing helmet all the time regardless of how slow you are going. Practice somewhere quiet and safe, you can practice on grass but it can be a bit harder to start moving especially if it is wet, so somewhere nice and dry. If you take a small tumble on grass the worst that will happen is a small graze and if on concrete then not much worse either. Start with your seat low so you can get both feet on the ground, preferably take the pedals off and just learn to push yourself and balance. Good way to start.
Don't ride on the road until you are very confident at riding and then you have very little to fear.
Read around a bit of other adults learning to ride http://www.cyclinguk.org/case-study/alicias-story-teaching-adult-ride-bike
outunderthestars
Banned
Yes. If they are in the US the League of American Cyclists offers adult education classes in every state.
I would suggest picking a rainy weekday and heading into a local bike shop with a four pack of good beer. Tell them what you've told us and let them guide you through what is available. Be honest about your budget. We are also available here to help! I have 10 years + in the industry and would be more than happy to help via pm, chat, or Skype. Hit me up!
specialized allez e5 or sport
I did, and I've tried new gaskets, double gaskets, etc. Good suggestion though. I'm not certain what's up. I got out for a ride today and it was good out on the trail, but lost some air by the time I was home. It's a weird one for sure!
I've driven around in scotland and the roads outside the city (aberdeen) didn't feel very safe to ride on. Narrow roads, high speeds with no shoulders.