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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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Bought myself a new PC with black friday being a thing in France now.

1260E/1568$ for an Intel Core i7 4790K, GTX 970(asus), 2Tb and SSD 250 Go, 16 Go DDR3, No OS.

until tomorrow 9am: 7% off any items bought on materiel.net (for the frenchies).
Good deal, same spec in Finland diy is around 1500-1600E. I hate this fucking place.
 

def sim

Member
Hm

$350 for 1TB Samsung 840 Evo and a Far Cry 4 uplay key to sell off. That's better than I was expecting! Dope, I'll be playing all my games on SSD with this then.

Hopefully the new firmware absolutely fixed its problem.
 

pirata

Member
Hey, everyone.


It's been three-and-a-half years since I built my gaming PC, and it's time for an upgrade. Here's what I have right now:

----------------------------------------------------

EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Superclocked 1024MB GDDR5

Corsair Enthusiast Series 750-Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Power Supply

ASRock P67 Extreme4 B3 Intel P67 ATX DDR3 2133 Motherboard

1 x SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 ST2000DL004 2TB 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive

1 x G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-4GBNQ

1 x Fractal Design Define R3 Black ATX Mid Tower Silent PC Computer Case

EDIT: Forgot my i5 2500K I got at Fry's. Oops. No, it isn't overclocked.

----------------------

Back when I built it in 2011, it was a bit higher than mid-range, which I guess I'm still going for---I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on any one part, and I only really want to upgrade one or two parts right now. I generally like a lot of bang for my buck.

What should I upgrade first? Are there any good Black Friday deals today that could help me?

Also, when I built my PC, the 560ti was considered the best bang-for-buck card. What Geforce card would be considered the present-day equivalent? Is it the 750ti?

Thanks, GAF!
 
Hey, everyone.


It's been three-and-a-half years since I built my gaming PC, and it's time for an upgrade. Here's what I have right now:

----------------------------------------------------

EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Superclocked 1024MB GDDR5

Corsair Enthusiast Series 750-Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Power Supply

ASRock P67 Extreme4 B3 Intel P67 ATX DDR3 2133 Motherboard

1 x SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 ST2000DL004 2TB 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive

1 x G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-4GBNQ

1 x Fractal Design Define R3 Black ATX Mid Tower Silent PC Computer Case

EDIT: Forgot my i5 2500K I got at Fry's. Oops. No, it isn't overclocked.

----------------------

Back when I built it in 2011, it was a bit higher than mid-range, which I guess I'm still going for---I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on any one part, and I only really want to upgrade one or two parts right now. I generally like a lot of bang for my buck.

What should I upgrade first? Are there any good Black Friday deals today that could help me?

Also, when I built my PC, the 560ti was considered the best bang-for-buck card. What Geforce card would be considered the present-day equivalent? Is it the 750ti?

Thanks, GAF!

Hmn, maybe upgrade the amount of RAM RAM, but DDR3 prices are increasing pretty fast.

Get a cooler to overclock your CPU if you want and it will run great.

Add a SSD if you want.

750ti is a pretty low-end card. Gives next-gen console level of performance I think. 970 seems to be great bang for the buck now but is also $350 and would be high-end. You could wait a bit, maybe a 960 shows up soon or maybe there are good Black Friday deals but I am in Europe.
 

RGM79

Member
What do you guys think about this prebuilt?
http://www.ncix.com/detail/ncix-pc-entra-hm06-system-d4-100449-1029.htm
My dad's got ncix credit he wants to spend. Said the most intensive thing he'd use would be photoshop. Seems alright for $500, though it doesn't say much about the other parts that come with it.

Could I do much better by building one for him?
You can build a comparable AMD APU system for under $400 with decent quality parts, not including keyboard, mouse, or Windows ($20 from the right places).

Ok, about to pull the trigger. Anything I should change or upgrade? Prices went back down so I'm wanting to buy tonight. Only thing I'm looking for is a CPU but the i5 I saw last night went up by $50. Thanks in advance.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/JRBq7P

Forgot the case I'm looking at:

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/nzxt-case-caph410w1

Those parts look fine to me. If you want, you can spend up to $10 more for higher speed RAM. I recommend the following:

8GB G.Skill Sniper DDR3-2133 for $58

8GB G.Skill Ripjaws Z DDR3-2400 for $64

Hey, everyone.


It's been three-and-a-half years since I built my gaming PC, and it's time for an upgrade. Here's what I have right now:

----------------------------------------------------

EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Superclocked 1024MB GDDR5

Corsair Enthusiast Series 750-Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Power Supply

ASRock P67 Extreme4 B3 Intel P67 ATX DDR3 2133 Motherboard

1 x SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 ST2000DL004 2TB 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive

1 x G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-4GBNQ

1 x Fractal Design Define R3 Black ATX Mid Tower Silent PC Computer Case

EDIT: Forgot my i5 2500K I got at Fry's. Oops. No, it isn't overclocked.

----------------------

Back when I built it in 2011, it was a bit higher than mid-range, which I guess I'm still going for---I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on any one part, and I only really want to upgrade one or two parts right now. I generally like a lot of bang for my buck.

What should I upgrade first? Are there any good Black Friday deals today that could help me?

Also, when I built my PC, the 560ti was considered the best bang-for-buck card. What Geforce card would be considered the present-day equivalent? Is it the 750ti?

Thanks, GAF!

You can overclock your i5 2500K and it should be fine for a few more years. Just $26 for the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo heatsink that can get you up to 4.7GHz (4.5GHz easy and stable).

Another 4GB of RAM would do well. The exact same RAM you bought is still around for $48 and is guaranteed to be compatible at the same speeds and timing. If you want to save a little, there's G.Skill RAM with same speed and timing but without the red cover for $42.

What games do you play, and what settings and framerate would you like, and what's your budget? That will determine what card to get. The 750 Ti is a great midrange card but is only a slight upgrade from your current video card. With current sales you can get a much better and stronger graphics card for around $150-250. There's the XFX R9 290 for $235. There's also the $200 PowerColor R9 290 which is a somewhat less reputable brand, but has good reviews.
 
Ended up ordering a 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO SSD from Amazon. What's the best way I can move Windows 8.1 to it and keep everything else on my HDD?
 

RGM79

Member
Ended up ordering a 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO SSD from Amazon. What's the best way I can move Windows 8.1 to it and keep everything else on my HDD?

If your current hard drive's data amounts to less than 250GB, you could clone it directly to the new SSD. Otherwise, you should do a fresh install of Windows 8.1 onto the SSD. Back up your data and format the old drive if you can, because the old installation of Windows 8.1 on the hard drive can interfere with the installation and booting of the new SSD. I recommend you keep the old hard drive unplugged while setting up the new SSD.

Thanks man, that looks pretty good.
Yeah, just pricematch everything at NCIX and you can use your credits there. You can switch out the case for something else if you like. That one's compact and a little hard to build in, but I like the looks and features.
 

dsp

Member
This will be my first time building a computer and I was wondering if this will be good or if there's some better things I can do. My budget is 900$.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/slumlord/saved/vPqwrH

I just edited one of the website's builds a bit.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7kLcmG
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7kLcmG/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($208.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($80.54 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: *Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($344.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($33.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-N15 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($23.80 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $902.25

Also, is there any good reason why I would want to get Windows 8 over 7? I don't want to change.
 

Helmholtz

Member
Also, is there any good reason why I would want to get Windows 8 over 7? I don't want to change.
I tried 8 around a year ago and I didn't like it. Not sure if they've improved the interface much since then or not. However I personally have no reason to upgrade from 7. For me 7 is a near-perfect operating system.
 

RGM79

Member
This will be my first time building a computer and I was wondering if this will be good or if there's some better things I can do. My budget is 900$.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/slumlord/saved/vPqwrH

I just edited one of the website's builds a bit.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7kLcmG
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7kLcmG/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($208.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($80.54 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: *Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($344.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($33.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-N15 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($23.80 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $902.25

Not quite optimal, but it works. Good call on the CPU and graphics card. I'd recommend a Z97 motherboard if you want a 4690K, but H97 will work as well. Unless you absolutely need a DVD drive, you could go without it - discs aren't used very often these days. Two separate 1 x 8GB kits is undeniably the cheapest. Few people actually need 16GB of memory unless they're doing heavy work like video production, you could go down to a single 8GB stick if you wanted.
 

dsp

Member
I tried 8 around a year ago and I didn't like it. Not sure if they've improved the interface much since then or not. However I personally have no reason to upgrade from 7. For me 7 is a near-perfect operating system.

Yeah, I've tried it out on a friend's laptop and didn't like it, so I definitely want to stick with 7. Just wanting to make sure there isn't some good reason why I should upgrade.

Not quite optimal, but it works. Good call on the CPU and graphics card. I'd recommend a Z97 motherboard if you want a 4690K, but H97 will work as well. Unless you absolutely need a DVD drive, you could go without it - discs aren't used very often these days. Two separate 1 x 8GB kits is undeniably the cheapest. Few people actually need 16GB of memory unless they're doing heavy work like video production, you could go down to a single 8GB stick if you wanted.

Thanks for the reply, man. I upgraded the ram to 16 gigs because I will be doing audio/music things that can definitely require a good amount of ram. I'm also hoping it'll help me run Star Citizen fairly well when that comes out.
 

One-Shot

Banned
This will be my first time building a computer and I was wondering if this will be good or if there's some better things I can do. My budget is 900$.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/slumlord/saved/vPqwrH

I just edited one of the website's builds a bit.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7kLcmG
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7kLcmG/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($208.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($80.54 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: *Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($344.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($33.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-N15 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($23.80 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $902.25

Also, is there any good reason why I would want to get Windows 8 over 7? I don't want to change.

Isn't DX12 Windows 8 only? Might be wrong about that.

Also maybe a discounted price when you upgrade from 8 to Windows 10 when that comes out.
 

knitoe

Member
Quick question.

Should I got with a 3TB HDD that's 7200RPM or 4TB that's 5400. I feel like the speed would hamper my experience with the drive, since I'm going to be putting a lot of stuff in it.

4TB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236604&ignorebbr=1

3TB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149396
Between the 2, Toshiba 3TB. I do not recommend ever buying a WD Green HDD
What are you putting on all that space?
Steam. Personally, I have over 2TB of games.
 

knitoe

Member
What's wrong with the greens?
Although the smaller ones 2TB or less seems to be OK, the larger ones have terrible fail rate. Look at the reviews on Newegg. Personally, my 3TB died after 6 months. Thus, given the many options, I would just avoid the Greens.
 

Zombine

Banned
I have been enjoying my build for days now. This was the best decision I've made in years, and I've been swimming in Steam games since Thursday. Between TechSupportGAF and this, you guys helped a bunch.

Also, be warned that your case manufacturer may cut corners and give you only one of a certain cable when you really need two. I got caught up on my build thinking I did something wrong, but they really just weren't generous lol.
 

kamakazi5

Member
This will be my first time building a computer and I was wondering if this will be good or if there's some better things I can do. My budget is 900$.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/slumlord/saved/vPqwrH

I just edited one of the website's builds a bit.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7kLcmG
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7kLcmG/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($208.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($80.54 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: *Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($344.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($33.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-N15 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($23.80 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $902.25

Also, is there any good reason why I would want to get Windows 8 over 7? I don't want to change.

Not sure if you're in the US and have a Frys near you but I just picked up that exact CPU a few minutes ago for $179. They price matched micro center for me no issue.
 

antonz

Member
This will be my first time building a computer and I was wondering if this will be good or if there's some better things I can do. My budget is 900$.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/slumlord/saved/vPqwrH

I just edited one of the website's builds a bit.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7kLcmG
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7kLcmG/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($208.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($80.54 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: *Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($344.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($33.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-N15 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($23.80 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $902.25

Also, is there any good reason why I would want to get Windows 8 over 7? I don't want to change.

Been strongly suggested windows 10 will be free for windows 8 users or heavily discounted at the worst
 
If your current hard drive's data amounts to less than 250GB, you could clone it directly to the new SSD. Otherwise, you should do a fresh install of Windows 8.1 onto the SSD. Back up your data and format the old drive if you can, because the old installation of Windows 8.1 on the hard drive can interfere with the installation and booting of the new SSD. I recommend you keep the old hard drive unplugged while setting up the new SSD.

Hmm.. Any suggestions if I'm not able to back up my drive to an external at the moment? I figured a clean install is the best way to go but I'm not sure exactly how I can do that if I don't have a somewhere I can back up to currently.
 

pirata

Member



You can overclock your i5 2500K and it should be fine for a few more years. [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2"]Just $26 for the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo heatsink
that can get you up to 4.7GHz (4.5GHz easy and stable).

Another 4GB of RAM would do well. The exact same RAM you bought is still around for $48 and is guaranteed to be compatible at the same speeds and timing. If you want to save a little, there's G.Skill RAM with same speed and timing but without the red cover for $42.

What games do you play, and what settings and framerate would you like, and what's your budget? That will determine what card to get. The 750 Ti is a great midrange card but is only a slight upgrade from your current video card. With current sales you can get a much better and stronger graphics card for around $150-250. There's the XFX R9 290 for $235. There's also the $200 PowerColor R9 290 which is a somewhat less reputable brand, but has good reviews.

I'm not super savvy about PC parts and stuff (I built mine using an old GAF PC thread recommended build and a video of someone building a PC using many of the same parts in the exact same case), so I have a few questions/comments/whatever.

-Why not get entirely new RAM? It looks like buying 8 gigs of RAM would only be a dozen or so dollars more than buying more of the RAM I'm using now. Also, are you sure that my motherboard will accept four sticks? Do I need to make sure that all of the sticks I use are exactly the same? I seem to remember that it screws up if the RAM is unbalanced or something...

-I use my PC as my main video-game-playing device these days, so I would like something that can play next-gen console ports on par with the PS4 at 1080p, if not better....but I could just be saying that because I've been spoiled by being able to max out most games that have come out over the past 3.5 years with ease with a relatively-inexpensive set-up. I'm patient.
....Just looked up an old invoice, and it seems that my 560ti was $250 when I bought it in 2011. Huh, that's more expensive than I remembered, but now I do recall that it was the most expensive part of my build back then. Huh. Still, not willing to spend that much to upgrade right now, so I might wait until cards come down in price.

-I think the biggest problem I have right now with my PC is the hard drive. It scores the lowest in my Windows experience score (not that that means a whole lot, haha), and my computer has had more and more problems loading things and has generally gotten more and more sluggish and gives me blue screens of death more and more. I know that I'm supposed to reformat my hard drive, but the prospect terrifies me. I also really want to get a SDD, but that would also require me to reformat/redo my PC. Here are my concerns/questions:

1. Can I re-install Windows from a previously-used (Windows 7) disc without having to pay some activation fee or something?

2. How should I back up all of my old data? Should I put it on a portable hard drive?

3. If I got an SSD, how would I set it up to work alongside my HDD? How could I tell my computer to download certain things to SSD and others to the HDD?

4. I also had a horrible time getting my PC up in running because of a faulty version of Windows...and...well...it's hard to explain...here are a few of my posts from 2011:

PC GAF, I desperately need your help! My new PC was working fine and dandy for about 48 hours. However, yesterday when I tried to turn it on, it said that Windows couldn't start properly because files or hardware had been altered. Every time I tried to start Windows normally, it would just crash while loading and restart. The second option was a disk repair thing. I chose that, and left it doing repairs for several hours until it rebooted and Windows loaded again.


However, everything is now fucked up. All of my games crash when I try to open them (Crysis eventually worked after letting it sit for a while, but all of the enemies act weird, like jumping up and down in place), and I can barely open any program without it becoming unresponsive. I texted my friend to see what he thinks, and he says that my harddrive might be faulty. What does GAF think? How can I fix it? I'm kind of freaking out right now, especially since I have to leave for school on Sunday.

Okay, guys, I'm kind of scared. Like I posted about earlier, I managed to get everything going smoothly again by reformatting and reinstalling windows. However, I still think I have the same problem.


Just like last time, I cannot access Windows Update. Whenever I click on it, it hangs, and I have to use the task manager to close it. And now, the Windows Update thing is in the lower right bar, and when I hover my mouse over it, it says "Windows is downloading updates (5%)," and it's been like this for a while. The reason why I'm so worried is because the last I saw of my computer before the freak-out, it was installing updates as it shut down (I left it like that, since I had to go somewhere, and when I came back and turned the computer on, Windows gave me that error message I talked about a few pages back and had to repair itself). I think that Windows must have installed an incomplete update, fucking itself up, and I think it might happen again.
Alright, I'm not sure if anyone is familiar with my PC drama from a few weeks back, but my PC bit the dust again, and it happened, once again, after it had installed updates to Windows against my will. So, yeah, I'm pretty sure the Windows student disc that Microsoft sent me must be fucked up (since it keeps committing suicide after a few days using System Update). I need to buy a new copy of Windows, but this time I'm NOT springing for the student edition.
If anyone in the thread remembers a few weeks back, I had just recently built a PC, which worked fine for two days before freaking out and becoming almost worthless. I reformatted and reinstalled Windows, which seemed to fix things for a week or so, but it freaked out once again and was barely able to run anything anymore. A few people may remember that I suspected that Windows Update was the culprit, and that my version of Windows that Microsoft sent me was defective.

I have since gotten another Student edition of Windows 7, but this time from the computer store on campus. I reformatted and reinstalled, and like magic, I had full control over Windows Update this time (I immediately turned off all updates, of course. Can you blame me after what's happened?)! Everything seems to be working fine so far, and none of the forced updates or other warning signs from the past two incarnations of my PC have reared their ugly heads. It's only been a few days (I got everything up and running on Saturday night), but I'm cautiously optimistic that Disco Godfather won't commit suicide again.

The moral of the story: sometimes Microsoft sends out Windows discs that will cause your computer to kill itself with bad updates.

...And my computer has mostly been fine since then, over three years later. Unfortunately, I think both of the Windows disks are buried in my desk, completely unlabeled! I'm terrified of picking the wrong one and going through all of this again (especially since it doesn't kill itself until a few days later)!

....

So, basically, I'm asking for some help/advice from GAF regarding reformatting a hard drive and installing a SSD.
 

rSpooky

Member
Got a great deal on a Items Ordered
Intel Core i5-4690K Processor but had to skip on the motherboard.
So I got this ...MSI B85-G41 PC MATE Intel B85 Motherboard //I know it is not overclocking capable but I hope that is is good enough to perform stable until I can give overclock boost in a year or so.. Am I screwed??
 

knitoe

Member
Today, my Dell Venue 11 Pro (7140) with the newly release fanless Intel Core M CPU came. Makes no noise and performs so much faster than my old HP Omni 12 with a Atom Bay Trail CPU. Build quality is excellent. Highly recommended if you are looking to get a high performance Windows tablet.

LKvdIeb.jpg
 
I ordered the i7-4790K from Newegg and I actually got the VISA checkout promo to work somehow. :O Also had Kaspersky Internet Security 2015 in the order so maybe that helped make it work.
 

RGM79

Member
I'm not super savvy about PC parts and stuff (I built mine using an old GAF PC thread recommended build and a video of someone building a PC using many of the same parts in the exact same case), so I have a few questions/comments/whatever.

-Why not get entirely new RAM? It looks like buying 8 gigs of RAM would only be a dozen or so dollars more than buying more of the RAM I'm using now. Also, are you sure that my motherboard will accept four sticks? Do I need to make sure that all of the sticks I use are exactly the same? I seem to remember that it screws up if the RAM is unbalanced or something...

At the cheapest, it's around $50-70 for 8GB and $100-140 for 16GB. Guess I had a brainfart and went "he'll have 8GB total for $47, sounds fine". Yes, your motherboard has 4 RAM slots and will take 4 RAM sticks, as can be seen in the photo. According to the specs, it'll take DDR3-1600, but 2133MHz and 1866MHz say (OC) next to them. I'm not sure if that motherboard will handle higher speed RAM very well, it may be unstable or require meddling around in the BIOS menu, so for sake of easy upgrades, 1600MHz and 1333MHz RAM are better for compatibility.

Here's 8GB of G.Skill DDR3-1600 for $55.


-I use my PC as my main video-game-playing device these days, so I would like something that can play next-gen console ports on par with the PS4 at 1080p, if not better....but I could just be saying that because I've been spoiled by being able to max out most games that have come out over the past 3.5 years with ease with a relatively-inexpensive set-up. I'm patient.
....Just looked up an old invoice, and it seems that my 560ti was $250 when I bought it in 2011. Huh, that's more expensive than I remembered, but now I do recall that it was the most expensive part of my build back then. Huh. Still, not willing to spend that much to upgrade right now, so I might wait until cards come down in price.
It's up to you. The GTX 960 is rumored to release around February 2015, I'm sure it will be in the $250-300 range. You could keep using your 560 Ti until then. The examples I mentioned to you, the R9 290 graphics cards, they original had a retail MSRP of $399. How much and when do you intend to spend on a graphics card?

-I think the biggest problem I have right now with my PC is the hard drive. It scores the lowest in my Windows experience score (not that that means a whole lot, haha), and my computer has had more and more problems loading things and has generally gotten more and more sluggish and gives me blue screens of death more and more. I know that I'm supposed to reformat my hard drive, but the prospect terrifies me. I also really want to get a SDD, but that would also require me to reformat/redo my PC.

If you have an external hard drive or something similar, it's best to back up everything that you want to save, and then format the hard drive. As long as you have a copy of everything you want to keep, it's safe to format.

Here are my concerns/questions:
1. Can I re-install Windows from a previously-used (Windows 7) disc without having to pay some activation fee or something?

2. How should I back up all of my old data? Should I put it on a portable hard drive?

3. If I got an SSD, how would I set it up to work alongside my HDD? How could I tell my computer to download certain things to SSD and others to the HDD?

4. I also had a horrible time getting my PC up in running because of a faulty version of Windows...and...well...it's hard to explain...here are a few of my posts from 2011:

...And my computer has mostly been fine since then, over three years later. Unfortunately, I think both of the Windows disks are buried in my desk, completely unlabeled! I'm terrified of picking the wrong one and going through all of this again (especially since it doesn't kill itself until a few days later)!
....
So, basically, I'm asking for some help/advice from GAF regarding reformatting a hard drive and installing a SSD.

1. Yes. There are newer methods though, like USB installation.
2. That's what most people do. It's your data, you need to figure out how large of an external drive you'll need.
3. Yes. How you specify it will be according to the program. When you install things, instead of clicking next all the way through, you'll just need to take note of where it says it's installing to.
4. Things have become easier and smoother since then. You can install Windows from USB now, it's faster. I'll leave the specific details to a later post, this is getting a bit long. Sounds like some kind of driver or software conflict. I think it's avoidable. I haven't found any instances of anyone else having similar issues with the motherboard, might be an isolated thing.
 

RGM79

Member
Sorry for double posting, didn't want this to get hidden in the earlier larger post.

Hmm.. Any suggestions if I'm not able to back up my drive to an external at the moment? I figured a clean install is the best way to go but I'm not sure exactly how I can do that if I don't have a somewhere I can back up to currently.

How much free space do you have on your hard drive? You could turn the free space into a partition, move over the data you want to back up there, then delete only the old Windows partition, and then extend the new partition to full size.

This guide will tell you how to use the built in disk management system in Windows to fiddle with hard drive partitions. I have to stress that this is changing how your hard drive stores data, and it's possible for the partitioning and resizing to go wrong and data could be lost.

It's a normal procedure, but you are shifting eggs around in a basket to make room while trying not to break them, if that analogy makes sense to you.

Got a great deal on a Items Ordered
Intel Core i5-4690K Processor but had to skip on the motherboard.
So I got this ...MSI B85-G41 PC MATE Intel B85 Motherboard //I know it is not overclocking capable but I hope that is is good enough to perform stable until I can give overclock boost in a year or so.. Am I screwed??

Actually, the MSI B85 is capable of overclocking, I think it needs a certain update.

Depending on date of manufacture, that motherboard model may need a BIOS update to be compatible with your specific processor. Could be a huge pain in the ass, or it could work no problems. Is there a sticker or label on the box mentioning what revision number or date of manufacture the motherboard is? If it's recent (from April of this year or later) then it might just work out of the box.
 

rSpooky

Member
Depending on date of manufacture, that motherboard model may need a BIOS update to be compatible with your specific processor.

Could be a huge pain in the ass, or it could work no problems. Is there a sticker or label on the box mentioning what revision number or date of manufacture the motherboard is?
It is not here yet..let's wait and see.
 

Hanzou

Member
http://www.ncix.com/detail/asrock-h97-pro4-lga1150-1xpcie3-0x16-e7-97211-1029.htm

http://www.ncix.com/detail/asrock-h97m-pro4-lga-1150-0a-97212-1029.htm


Any reason to get one over the other or look at another kind of board altogether. I don't plan on going crossfire, I am using an i5 4440 so overclocking is out of the picture so the H97 chipset should be fine.

The only difference between the two I can tell is the second one has an extra pcie x16 slot for crossfire and a couple pci ports while the other does not support crossfire but has some x1 pcie ports and pci ports. I can think of what I would use the x1 pcie slots so I am thinking the the one that supports crossfire and has the optical out port since its $5 cheaper, Am I missing anything here?
 

RGM79

Member
http://www.ncix.com/detail/asrock-h97-pro4-lga1150-1xpcie3-0x16-e7-97211-1029.htm

http://www.ncix.com/detail/asrock-h97m-pro4-lga-1150-0a-97212-1029.htm


Any reason to get one over the other or look at another kind of board altogether. I don't plan on going crossfire, I am using an i5 4440 so overclocking is out of the picture so the H97 chipset should be fine.

The only difference between the two I can tell is the second one has an extra pcie x16 slot for crossfire and a couple pci ports while the other does not support crossfire but has some x1 pcie ports and pci ports. I can think of what I would use the x1 pcie slots so I am thinking the the one that supports crossfire and has the optical out port since its $5 cheaper, Am I missing anything here?

One is H97, that is a regular ATX size case. The H97M is a smaller mATX motherboard. You can get the H97 if it fits in your case.
 

Hanzou

Member
One is H97, that is a regular ATX size case. The H97M is a smaller mATX motherboard. You can get the H97 if it fits in your case.

Yep was just about to come edit this. Nowhere on the NCIX page do I see it saying the M is for micro(which makes sense). Had to go to the asrock web site to notice this. The Pro version it is then.
 
Not sure if this was posted or not but Bestbuy has the LogitechG502 Proteus Core Optical Gaming Mouse for $79.99, comes with a $50 steam gift card.

The mouse is actually pretty damned good too.
 

Helmholtz

Member
I ordered the i7-4790K from Newegg and I actually got the VISA checkout promo to work somehow. :O Also had Kaspersky Internet Security 2015 in the order so maybe that helped make it work.
Shit, I want to do this, but don't want Kaspersky.
Edit: actually it looks like the code works for me too. They must have fixed it
 

Lunar15

Member
Hey GAF, I just recently picked up an i7 4790K on sale, and I plan on probably OC'ing it. I have an old H50 Corsair cooler that I used for my old AMD Phenom XII, but I'm unsure of whether it'll do the job or not.

Of course, I can just test it out when I finish building my new rig, but I didn't know if anyone had a clear answer on this. I could always upgrade to the H100i, seen some good prices there. But I'd rather not spend if I don't have to.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Haz's build sheet recommends "low profile" RAM. How do I find out the height of RAM chips and what is considered "low profile"?
If it goes way past the actual RAM stick then it is not low profile. AKA no giant heatspreaders.
Hey GAF, I just recently picked up an i7 4790K on sale, and I plan on probably OC'ing it. I have an old H50 Corsair cooler that I used for my old AMD Phenom XII, but I'm unsure of whether it'll do the job or not.

Of course, I can just test it out when I finish building my new rig, but I didn't know if anyone had a clear answer on this. I could always upgrade to the H100i, seen some good prices there. But I'd rather not spend if I don't have to.
H50 should be ok, give it a go first as the cooler isn't as important (for the wrong reasons) as it should be due to the chips.
 
How much free space do you have on your hard drive? You could turn the free space into a partition, move over the data you want to back up there, then delete only the old Windows partition, and then extend the new partition to full size.

This guide will tell you how to use the built in disk management system in Windows to fiddle with hard drive partitions. I have to stress that this is changing how your hard drive stores data, and it's possible for the partitioning and resizing to go wrong and data could be lost.

Yeah that makes sense. I decided to take the safe route and order a 1 TB external drive to back up my HDD to. So I'm planning on basically just copying my entire HDD to that, format my HDD, install Windows to my SSD, and copy back the files I need from the external. That should be all good right? Thanks for your help.
 

Takosuke

Member
I just picked up a 980 GTX (EVGA, SC), to replace my 680 GTX (Twin Frozr OC), but I think I really need to upgrade my CPU (got it in 2010.. it's time!).
I currenlty have an i7 930 stock 2.8ghz, OCed at 3.3ghz.

2 Choices: Waiting a bit to get an i7-5930K + a good mobo, or going with one of the deals for a i7 4790K (roughly about 290$ nowadays) + mobo.

I'm just not sure if going with a 4790k now is worth it, as I will have to change the motherboard again if I need to upgrade within the year... thoughts?
 

RGM79

Member
Haz's build sheet recommends "low profile" RAM. How do I find out the height of RAM chips and what is considered "low profile"?

Manufacturer's website should list it, so you need to do a little research. If you're looking at parts via PCPartPicker, most of the RAM info pages have a picture of them. Noctua's website has a handy listing of compatible RAM modules for people who will be using their air coolers, you need to go to the product page for the heatsink and click on the compatibility link on the left hand navigation bar.

Corsair RAM will say if it's low profile or not in the name.
G.Skill's Eco and Ares models are low profile.
Crucial RAM is low profile if the name is just "Crucial" (no heatspreader), the other models like "Crucial Ballistix" and others vary, but the "Ballistix Elite" are tall.
Team Group's Vulcan and Zeus are very short, basically bare.
A-Data's Premier and XPG V1.0 models are short, while everything else is tall.
Mushkin memory all have the same height heatspreader, not very tall, could be considered low.

Hey GAF, I just recently picked up an i7 4790K on sale, and I plan on probably OC'ing it. I have an old H50 Corsair cooler that I used for my old AMD Phenom XII, but I'm unsure of whether it'll do the job or not.

Of course, I can just test it out when I finish building my new rig, but I didn't know if anyone had a clear answer on this. I could always upgrade to the H100i, seen some good prices there. But I'd rather not spend if I don't have to.

If you still have the unused mounting brackets that came with the H50, then you'll be fine. AMD and Intel motherboards have different mounting holes and brackets. You will also need thermal paste to apply to the CPU before mounting.

At the very least, it'll be better than the stock cooler when properly installed.

Yeah that makes sense. I decided to take the safe route and order a 1 TB external drive to back up my HDD to. So I'm planning on basically just copying my entire HDD to that, format my HDD, install Windows to my SSD, and copy back the files I need from the external. That should be all good right? Thanks for your help.

Yep. Keep in mind, most applications need to be reinstalled to work well with Windows, don't just transplant the folder from "Program Files" and expect it to work.

How stable are those third party mods for Windows 8's start menu?

I haven't had any problems with Classic Shell. It's pretty seamlessly integrated into Windows on startup, even on my agonizingly slow Windows 8 netbook.

I just picked up a 980 GTX (EVGA, SC), to replace my 680 GTX (Twin Frozr OC), but I think I really need to upgrade my CPU (got it in 2010.. it's time!).
I currenlty have an i7 930 stock 2.8ghz, OCed at 3.3ghz.

2 Choices: Waiting a bit to get an i7-5930K + a good mobo, or going with one of the deals for a i7 4790K (roughly about 290$ nowadays) + mobo.

I'm just not sure if going with a 4790k now is worth it, as I will have to change the motherboard again if I need to upgrade within the year... thoughts?

The i7 5930K and X99 motherboard will require new DDR4 memory, just in case you didn't know, and that's quite expensive right now. Microcentre currently has the i7 4790K for $250 but only for in-store purchase.

If you don't mind me asking, what are you using the computer for? The i7 4790k is quite good and will satisfy most people for a few years at least, and for games the i5 4690K is sufficient and performs close to the 4790K. Would you really need to upgrade again next year if you buy into Z97?

Z97 and socket 1150 aren't due to be made obsolete any time soon. The Broadwell line of CPUs is due out in the middle of 2015 for Z97 and socket 1150. Skylake's Z170 and socket 1151 platform is apparently releasing at around the same time, but isn't going to be replacing Z97 and socket 1150. Next year's Skylake CPUs won't be unlocked for overclocking and might not be totally performance-oriented.
 
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