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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Honestly, it depends on what graphics card you'll be going with. He has a very short GTX 650 Ti card installed into the PCI-E slot so it's not a problem. Going with a 160mm long modular power supply would restrict the length of your graphics card, meaning you would have fewer choices. There are shorter power supplies out there, some even modular. If you have a budget and will tell us what country you're in, we could come up with some example parts lists with the Bitfenix Prodigy M and a suitable power supply and graphics card that won't interfere with each other.
You can see there that anything too long would run into the power supply cables, regardless if it were modular or not. That would mean some to most high end graphics cards may have trouble fitting.
What case do you have? Some cases have holes cut into the motherboard tray to allow you to install a backplate without needing to remove the motherboard. If you're looking for effective cooling, a backplate is very much recommended as it makes quite a lot of difference.
Pinch the sides as you put it in and make sure the latch is on the correct side
What do you mean you can't plug it in? The plastic locking tab isn't catching? Won't fit?
The CX750M isn't a very good power supply, if you are having issues, I'd recommend you return it. It doesn't handle higher temperatures well and Jonny Guru described it as actually being more like a 650 watt model under the 750 watt label.
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
Is that just one bad model, or does Corsair do bad PSUs overall? Pretty sure my current 650w one is a Corsair.
CX line is cheap and riding the brand, but a far cry from the abominations of low end from 5 years ago.
Yeah, the tab won't lock. Every other piece gives a satisfying click and requires a good amount of force to take out. This one won't lock in and pops right out.
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
What are the best PSUs generally?
Seasonic would be one.
Quality varies by the model. Corsair doesn't make their own power supplies, they get other OEMs to make technical designs that Corsair rebadges as their own. They started out rebranding quite a lot of Channel Well Tech and Seasonic models when Corsair started selling power supplies and they were quite good, but in recent years newer models from Corsair haven't been entirely good as they've moved more to some cheaper manufacturers like Chicony, and Greatwall, while still using some Seasonic and CWT models. Their super high end models by Flextronics are very good, though.
I'd skip and recommend against CX models whenever I can, there are usually better power supplies available for similar prices or even cheaper. EVGA's lower end bronze and 80 plus models are quite good in comparison.
Seasonic, Super Flower, XFX (all rebadged Seasonic models), certain Antec/EVGA/Rosewill models (some rebadged Seasonics and Super Flowers)
Liberty4all
Banned
Quick question for PC GAF. I bought my PC in 2011 (using a similar thread to this on GAF actually).
Do I need to upgrade? I use my system mainly for DOTA type games such as Smite. I don't really game much on Steam although I'd like to get my system ready for VR once it hits. Not sure if my processor will be good enough?
-----------------
System Information
------------------
Time of this report: 3/30/2015, 20:39:16
Machine name: USER-PC
Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.150202-1526)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: System manufacturer
System Model: System Product Name
BIOS: BIOS Date: 02/05/10 19:13:52 Ver: 08.00.10
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-2500K CPU @ 3.30GHz (4 CPUs), ~3.3GHz
Memory: 8192MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 8168MB RAM
Page File: 4809MB used, 11526MB available
Windows Dir: C:\Windows
DirectX Version: DirectX 11
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
User DPI Setting: Using System DPI
System DPI Setting: 96 DPI (100 percent)
DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled
DxDiag Version: 6.01.7601.17514 32bit Unicode
DxDiag Previously: Crashed in DirectShow (stage 1). Re-running DxDiag with "dontskip" command line parameter or choosing not to bypass information gathering when prompted might result in DxDiag successfully obtaining this information
--------------
Display Devices
---------------
Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti
Manufacturer: NVIDIA
Chip type: GeForce GTX 560 Ti
DAC type: Integrated RAMDAC
Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1200&SUBSYS_23821462&REV_A1
Display Memory: 4049 MB
Dedicated Memory: 977 MB
Shared Memory: 3071 MB
Current Mode: 1920 x 1080 (32 bit) (60Hz)
Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor
Monitor Model: ASUS VH236H
Monitor Id: ACI23F2
Native Mode: 1920 x 1080(p) (60.000Hz)
Output Type: DVI
Driver Name: nvd3dumx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvd3dum,nvwgf2um,nvwgf2um
Driver File Version: 9.18.0013.4725 (English)
Driver Version: 9.18.13.4725
DDI Version: 11
Driver Model: WDDM 1.1
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
Driver Date/Size: 1/10/2015 04:07:47, 17250776 bytes
Computer was a custom build (I bought all the parts based on GAF recommendations although I got the store to put it all together).
I'm thinking all I need is to upgrade my video card .... would that be correct?
I'm so glad I bought 8 gigs of ram, I recall a debate back then with some people saying 8 was overkill.
Do I need to upgrade? I use my system mainly for DOTA type games such as Smite. I don't really game much on Steam although I'd like to get my system ready for VR once it hits. Not sure if my processor will be good enough?
-----------------
System Information
------------------
Time of this report: 3/30/2015, 20:39:16
Machine name: USER-PC
Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.150202-1526)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: System manufacturer
System Model: System Product Name
BIOS: BIOS Date: 02/05/10 19:13:52 Ver: 08.00.10
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-2500K CPU @ 3.30GHz (4 CPUs), ~3.3GHz
Memory: 8192MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 8168MB RAM
Page File: 4809MB used, 11526MB available
Windows Dir: C:\Windows
DirectX Version: DirectX 11
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
User DPI Setting: Using System DPI
System DPI Setting: 96 DPI (100 percent)
DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled
DxDiag Version: 6.01.7601.17514 32bit Unicode
DxDiag Previously: Crashed in DirectShow (stage 1). Re-running DxDiag with "dontskip" command line parameter or choosing not to bypass information gathering when prompted might result in DxDiag successfully obtaining this information
--------------
Display Devices
---------------
Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti
Manufacturer: NVIDIA
Chip type: GeForce GTX 560 Ti
DAC type: Integrated RAMDAC
Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1200&SUBSYS_23821462&REV_A1
Display Memory: 4049 MB
Dedicated Memory: 977 MB
Shared Memory: 3071 MB
Current Mode: 1920 x 1080 (32 bit) (60Hz)
Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor
Monitor Model: ASUS VH236H
Monitor Id: ACI23F2
Native Mode: 1920 x 1080(p) (60.000Hz)
Output Type: DVI
Driver Name: nvd3dumx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvd3dum,nvwgf2um,nvwgf2um
Driver File Version: 9.18.0013.4725 (English)
Driver Version: 9.18.13.4725
DDI Version: 11
Driver Model: WDDM 1.1
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
Driver Date/Size: 1/10/2015 04:07:47, 17250776 bytes
Computer was a custom build (I bought all the parts based on GAF recommendations although I got the store to put it all together).
I'm thinking all I need is to upgrade my video card .... would that be correct?
I'm so glad I bought 8 gigs of ram, I recall a debate back then with some people saying 8 was overkill.
Yeah, all you need is a new graphics card. Overclock your processor if you like, nothing else is needed.
Liberty4all
Banned
Thanks!
The processor is actually overclocked, the processor has a feature that allows for energy saving, normal or overclocked mode (overclocking for dummies like me I guess) with a click of a button -- another one of GAF's recommendations I followed back in 2011.
edit: I also have to say I'm SO happy I followed GAF's recommendations when I purchased this PC. It's lasted so long without having to upgrade.
With a new video card would this system still be good for Oculus when it eventually hits the market?
Best and best for money are entirely different.
Any of the top end stuff is so insanely overkill... Pretty much any 850W Gold/550W Plat and up are good units from a good brand. OEMs being Seasonic/Superflower models mostly.
Cross posting this from the troubleshooting thread due to its more hardware oriented nature and the follow up questions I have on it:
I haven't looked into parts since I purchased everything for this first computer. While I see a ton of good advice in the OP for building from scratch at different price ranges, I'm a little more confused on what the priority would be for upgrading an existing PC. I'm trying to figure out the specs of my machine without actually being able to use it and, just from looking at labels on parts inside, it looks like I got:
Asus P8 Z68-V mobo
Seasonic SS-750KM PSU
(Assuming I'll have to replace one of those out of necessity)
RAM- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233186
MSI Twin Frozr III (I know it's 500 series but can't tell exactly what model- think its an Nvidia 570)
and I can't tell what the cpu is at all. I want to say its an intel i5 2500 series, but that's not a certain. This was bought as a fairly high end computer at the end of 2011, if that makes that seem any more or less likely.
and it currently all fits in a Fractal Arc Midi.
I'd say I can spare around $700 - $800 on upgrades- including any necessary replacements for repair- though I'd really love to hold on to some of that to get one of those new fangled g-sync monitors everyone is talking about later this year.
Thanks in advance for any insight on either my hardware issue or what I should be looking to upgrade.
I haven't looked into parts since I purchased everything for this first computer. While I see a ton of good advice in the OP for building from scratch at different price ranges, I'm a little more confused on what the priority would be for upgrading an existing PC. I'm trying to figure out the specs of my machine without actually being able to use it and, just from looking at labels on parts inside, it looks like I got:
Asus P8 Z68-V mobo
Seasonic SS-750KM PSU
(Assuming I'll have to replace one of those out of necessity)
RAM- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233186
MSI Twin Frozr III (I know it's 500 series but can't tell exactly what model- think its an Nvidia 570)
and I can't tell what the cpu is at all. I want to say its an intel i5 2500 series, but that's not a certain. This was bought as a fairly high end computer at the end of 2011, if that makes that seem any more or less likely.
and it currently all fits in a Fractal Arc Midi.
I'd say I can spare around $700 - $800 on upgrades- including any necessary replacements for repair- though I'd really love to hold on to some of that to get one of those new fangled g-sync monitors everyone is talking about later this year.
Thanks in advance for any insight on either my hardware issue or what I should be looking to upgrade.
Can you spin the broken fan manually? I mean, is it actually stuck, or does it rotate easily? Have you tried unplugging it?
Looks like you should look into getting a new processor, motherboard, and maybe graphics card. The case, RAM and power supply should be reusable if they're in good condition. I recommend the i5 4690K, a decent motherboard for $100~120, and depending on your needs, probably an GTX 970 or something similar. You're in the US?
Yes and yes.
Edit: Wait, I can spin it, but in testing m yother working fans, they move freely for a short time following a spin, whereas this one has slightly more resistance and will not continue spinning unless I move it. Exact same fan type too.
Yes. I was hoping those three would at least be ok, so that's good to hear. Thanks!
Femmeworth
Banned
Redid my CPU cooler and now I'm playing with my CPU settings. I think my motherboard's default settings were wonky so I changed the settings according to this at the Intel support forum. My load temps are now lower but so is the frequency under load. I don't know exactly what I'm doing and I'm trying read up on this stuff. I am intending to overclock and I was before I made any changes today. It would be helpful if I could see the settings other 4790k owners here use.
For reference
OS: Windows 7
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI
CPU: Intel i7 4790k
RAM: 8GB 2133mhz (XMP Profile 1 set in my BIOS)
PSU: SeaSonic X650 Gold
Edit: Here are the default settings per Intel Extreme Tuning Utility.
For reference
OS: Windows 7
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI
CPU: Intel i7 4790k
RAM: 8GB 2133mhz (XMP Profile 1 set in my BIOS)
PSU: SeaSonic X650 Gold
Edit: Here are the default settings per Intel Extreme Tuning Utility.
Just had a huge scare with my PC. Was browsing GAF when my mouse started lagging, then my screen went blank. PC didn't turn off or anything. Thought something happened to my GPU.
I immediately forced it off, took off the cover and dusted it (it's not dusty or anything, I do it once a week already), booted it up and it seems ok. I'm sure this is super generic, but what could the issue have been?
I immediately forced it off, took off the cover and dusted it (it's not dusty or anything, I do it once a week already), booted it up and it seems ok. I'm sure this is super generic, but what could the issue have been?
Just sounds like a display driver crash to me, did the image not come back?
I usually have driver crashes when I'm running certain games that disable Windows Aero and such. So it could be anything from a problem with your video card to just nothing to worry about.
SolidSnakeUS
Member
Just bought a Samsung 850 Evo 1TB, a HGST NAS 4TB HDD and a hard drive toaster last night. About $582.
Awesome
.
Awesome
.Finally had time this weekend to finish upgrading my PC.
Old Config:
ASUS GTX 670
3570k @ stock
G.skill 8GB
After Upgrade:
MSI 980 Gaming 4G
3570K @ 4.4GHz (1.21v running prime now for 10hrs+ stable, maybe reduce the vcore?)
G.skill 16GB
Holy shit at the performance increase! I'm getting 2x FPS/Scores from the benchmarks and games. I can actually game at 120Hz now!
I love it! bring on GTA, Witcher, MGSV, and Batman!
Old Config:
ASUS GTX 670
3570k @ stock
G.skill 8GB
After Upgrade:
MSI 980 Gaming 4G
3570K @ 4.4GHz (1.21v running prime now for 10hrs+ stable, maybe reduce the vcore?)
G.skill 16GB
Holy shit at the performance increase! I'm getting 2x FPS/Scores from the benchmarks and games. I can actually game at 120Hz now!
I love it! bring on GTA, Witcher, MGSV, and Batman!
kraspkibble
Permabanned.
my current specs:
i5-4590, Gigabyte H97M-D3H, 8GB 1600Mhz, R9 290 4GB, EVGA Supernova 750W G2.
i only want to play at 1080p and this set up does it just fine at the moment. however i'm already thinking of possible refresh of parts to do near the end of the year/start of next year. i want to go to something like this:
i7-5***, Gigabyte H97M-D3H, 16GB 1600Mhz, GTX 980/AMD 390/AMD390X, Evga Supernova 750W G2.
i know that the RAM upgrade won't be an issue. if i upgrade to one of these new GPU's i'm just worried that my i5-4590 won't be able to keep up with them so that's why i'm thinking of sticking in an i7 broadwell which i believe will be the most powerful CPU this motherboard could handle.
what do you think? is this a good idea or should i just stick to my current specs and do a completely new build when this ones not up to it anymore?
i5-4590, Gigabyte H97M-D3H, 8GB 1600Mhz, R9 290 4GB, EVGA Supernova 750W G2.
i only want to play at 1080p and this set up does it just fine at the moment. however i'm already thinking of possible refresh of parts to do near the end of the year/start of next year. i want to go to something like this:
i7-5***, Gigabyte H97M-D3H, 16GB 1600Mhz, GTX 980/AMD 390/AMD390X, Evga Supernova 750W G2.
i know that the RAM upgrade won't be an issue. if i upgrade to one of these new GPU's i'm just worried that my i5-4590 won't be able to keep up with them so that's why i'm thinking of sticking in an i7 broadwell which i believe will be the most powerful CPU this motherboard could handle.
what do you think? is this a good idea or should i just stick to my current specs and do a completely new build when this ones not up to it anymore?
ohyouagain
Member
GAF,I took a weird path for my gaming needs. I bought a PS4, A WiiU and a GTX 750ti low profile, all in a heartbeat. I don't plan changing my current PSU (320 W) nor my CPU i5-2500) for years to come. Will they last me this whole gen if I change my GPU down the road ?
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
i5 2500 should handle games to the end of the gen at the rate things are going but might start bottle-necking you when you upgrade to another GPU, esp if you can't overclock it since it's a non-k model. The PSU being 320w seriously limits your upgrade potential, but maybe there will be some future low power card that is a serious upgrade on the same power. With that said, there are always outliers and there could easily be games in 3 years time that strain that CPU to the breaking point. I doubt it, but it's possible.
8 GB Crucial RAM for $38 at Amazon.com and Tigerdirect.com. Hurry!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG9C2Q/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?sdtid=7776659&EdpNo=2932780
Taken from Slickdeals.net
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG9C2Q/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?sdtid=7776659&EdpNo=2932780
Taken from Slickdeals.net
ohyouagain
Member
Thanks. The reason I don't want to disassemble the case further is because it's an sff case with decent components inside. If any of my GPU down the road get bottlenecked, I'd rather change the case altogether.
I have also another question: will NUCs become a viable option to emulate Wii games and play others à la Pillars of Eternity at some point ? I find the form factor very sexy and wouldn't mind gain some space on my desk.
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
I can't comment on Dolphin since I have no idea how it runs on low end hardware. But Pillars of Eternity is playable on Surface Pro 2, which had intel HD4400 graphics and a laptop CPU. I suspect that an i3 or i5 NUC would run the game at a comfortably playable level. I installed an NUC yesterday based on the 5th gen intel core CPUs (i3 model) and it came equipped with HD 5500 graphics, more than enough for PoE. You might run into issues on the really low end celleron ones, but I haven't tested it personally.
Dries
Member
Sup, GAF. I recently bought a GTX 980 and I've been wanting to upgrade my monitor for a while. I currently have a 22 inch 1080p screen. I'd also like to step on the G-sync train to see how that is. Currently I'm mostly interested in the Asus ROG Swift PG278Q. But I do have some questions concerning 1440p. Here they come:
First off I gotta tell y'all I'm a IQ over framerate kinda guy and I value DSR as the main reason I bought my 980. Basically I would like to DSR every game the most I can. So my first question is:
Which setup would get a better AA and/or IQ result?
- a 1080p screen, but a downsampled image from 1440p
or a
- a 1440p screen and a native 1440p image
The reason I would potentially want to stick to my 1080p screen is because I can downsample "more" (because of the lower native res) and compress the image and edges even more than I could on a 1440p screen. I just love my smooth edges are crystal clear IQ that DSR is giving to me. I wouldn't want to miss it. But I assume my thinking is crooked here and I'll have great IQ and AA with a 1440p screen, right?
Another scenario. Again: Which setup would get a better AA and/or IQ result?
- a 1080p screen, but with a downsampled image from 1620p or 4K
or a
- a 1440p screen, but with a downsampled image from 1620p or 4K
I'm pretty sure that 1440p screen will look better in everything, but I wouldn't mind an expert weighing in the theoretical benefits of a 1440p screen and the actual reason it'll look better. I've heard that AA is pretty unnecessary anyway with a 1440p screen, so that also gives me a hopeful feeling.
Also, I'll potentially be upgrading from a 22 inch 1080p screen to a 27 1440p inch screen. How will the increase in acutal size effect my IQ and AA?
And last but not least: Could anyone else give recommendations concerning 27 inch 1440p screen with G-sync other than the Asus ROG Swift PG278Q? I don't really have a budget. I don't mind buying good stuff if it's good value.
First off I gotta tell y'all I'm a IQ over framerate kinda guy and I value DSR as the main reason I bought my 980. Basically I would like to DSR every game the most I can. So my first question is:
Which setup would get a better AA and/or IQ result?
- a 1080p screen, but a downsampled image from 1440p
or a
- a 1440p screen and a native 1440p image
The reason I would potentially want to stick to my 1080p screen is because I can downsample "more" (because of the lower native res) and compress the image and edges even more than I could on a 1440p screen. I just love my smooth edges are crystal clear IQ that DSR is giving to me. I wouldn't want to miss it. But I assume my thinking is crooked here and I'll have great IQ and AA with a 1440p screen, right?
Another scenario. Again: Which setup would get a better AA and/or IQ result?
- a 1080p screen, but with a downsampled image from 1620p or 4K
or a
- a 1440p screen, but with a downsampled image from 1620p or 4K
I'm pretty sure that 1440p screen will look better in everything, but I wouldn't mind an expert weighing in the theoretical benefits of a 1440p screen and the actual reason it'll look better. I've heard that AA is pretty unnecessary anyway with a 1440p screen, so that also gives me a hopeful feeling.
Also, I'll potentially be upgrading from a 22 inch 1080p screen to a 27 1440p inch screen. How will the increase in acutal size effect my IQ and AA?
And last but not least: Could anyone else give recommendations concerning 27 inch 1440p screen with G-sync other than the Asus ROG Swift PG278Q? I don't really have a budget. I don't mind buying good stuff if it's good value.
Acrylic7
Member
I dont have my PC yet but should I get 2 of these now so that I have the 16bg out of the way? $80 sounds way better than the $120ish price tags Iv seen on 16gb ram.
sackboy2197
Member
Is this a good PSU? http://it.pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-power-supply-rs550amaag1
I was considering it for this build http://it.pcpartpicker.com/p/pmcDFT
I was considering it for this build http://it.pcpartpicker.com/p/pmcDFT
Depends. Do you need 16 GB? Pointless to get one 8 GB RAM when you want dual channel memory, and if you bought two 4 GB RAM for roughly $60, what's another $20 for 16 GB RAM at that point? I would get it for your future PC if you're building one soon. I'm upgrading from 8 GB because it's so cheap. I also don't have to deal with Newegg and their return policies (that restocking fee especially).
Edit: Just consider this too before you buy: you could potentially be stuck with bad RAM if you never tested it for your future PC whenever that will be built. Or rather, it's easier to do an exchange for new RAM within a 30-day return period from the store than the manufacturer if you potentially get a bad stick.
Acrylic7
Member
Iv did my research and I think 16gb is best for what I'm using it for. Photoshop, Maya, videostuff, ect
It's a very good PSU.
If you can afford to spend some money now, I would then. Like you said, prices of 16GB are like $120. That's a $40 difference buying now than later. Also, when will you find RAM cheaper? That's what pushed me to upgrade right now :lol
I've bought a i7quad with ssd and a Titan X.
I originally bought a 4k Samsung screen for it which is 60hz, but now I'm wondering if a asus rog swift with gsync an 144hz with everything running max at 2556 x 1440, instead of 4k like I originally planned would be better than trying to run stuff at 4k an limiting the settings to hit 60fps.
Would the lower res (still insane coming from a xbox one) with 100+FPS gsync an 144hz outweigh the visual beauty of 4k?
Planning to play gta 5 on it and witcher 3
I originally bought a 4k Samsung screen for it which is 60hz, but now I'm wondering if a asus rog swift with gsync an 144hz with everything running max at 2556 x 1440, instead of 4k like I originally planned would be better than trying to run stuff at 4k an limiting the settings to hit 60fps.
Would the lower res (still insane coming from a xbox one) with 100+FPS gsync an 144hz outweigh the visual beauty of 4k?
Planning to play gta 5 on it and witcher 3
Best to use to bios for over clocking. I used this guide and OCCT stress-test as recommended here by Anandtech which was quite good in showing when settings were not stable.
Don't have to same CPU so can't recommend exact settings but I can give a general overview of my experience with a gigabyte z97 board and i5-490k. I currently have my i5-4690k stable at 4.5Ghz @1.185v on Vcore and @1.590v on VRIN.
To start over clocking go into the bios :
Advanced Frequency section -
Turn off C1E, C3, C6/C7, Cpu thermal monitor, E1ST. These will be turned on later when you have a stable overclock to save some power.
Frequency section -
This is where you choose the speed you want to run at. Probably best to test if your CPU can handle it's turbo boost frequency all the time so start at 4.4Ghz which is done by typing 44 in the CPU clock ratio box or using the arrows to increase it to 44.
Now go to voltage section -
CPU Vrin external override - There should be a number there which represents your stock Vrin voltage. Write that down. Change it from auto to the stock amount and toggle from off to on.
CPU Vcore - There should be a number there which represents your stock Vcore voltage. Write that down. Change it from auto to the stock amount and toggle from off to on.
Then click apply below. Depending on you stock voltages you could lower them to see if your CPU can handle them which allows it to run cooler and last longer.
I personally tested each time I increased my cpu clock ratio for about 15 mins with OCCT cpu stress test and about 20mins with Intel Extreme Tuning Utility. You can do longer if you want just to be sure.
Follow the overclockers.net guide in increasing the Vcore voltage or/and Vrin when it's not stable.
Good luck
N
NinjaFridge
Unconfirmed Member
Honestly, it depends on what graphics card you'll be going with. He has a very short GTX 650 Ti card installed into the PCI-E slot so it's not a problem. Going with a 160mm long modular power supply would restrict the length of your graphics card, meaning you would have fewer choices. There are shorter power supplies out there, some even modular. If you have a budget and will tell us what country you're in, we could come up with some example parts lists with the Bitfenix Prodigy M and a suitable power supply and graphics card that won't interfere with each other.
You can see there that anything too long would run into the power supply cables, regardless if it were modular or not. That would mean some to most high end graphics cards may have trouble fitting.
This is what I have so far. Like I said, I'm not sure what GPU I'd be getting in the future, I just don't want to limit my options too much. As for the case, I like the M but I'm willing to change for something with a bit more room. I would not be getting a GPU til later.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£174.90 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£81.37 @ Dabs)
Memory: Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£48.90 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Storage: Crucial BX100 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£47.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£41.79 @ Amazon UK)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy M Midnight MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£63.95 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: XFX 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£62.98 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £521.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-05 14:10 BST+0100
I Live in Northern Ireland so I'm not covered by the free delivery most sites advertise. Shipping ends up adding an extra £10-15 to the final price which usually brings it above the amazon price who do provide free shipping.
As for budget, I'd like to keep it around £500 for now. I'm not even sure if i'll actually build anything either (but i am tempted), just doing some research.
ohyouagain
Member
That's the one I have my eyes on. Thanks for the info.
So GAF, I dun goofed, have some questions:
I bought an overclocked CPU/Mobo combo from Overclockers.co.uk a few years back. The CPU is a Core i7 overclocked to about 4Ghz (or maybe a little more?). It was done by the retailer and delivered attached to the mobo. I don't know anything about overclocking or how to do it but I understand you change stuff in your BIOS settings?
So yeah, the other day I was moving the PC and I accidentally pushed some little button on the back panel of the mobo... which it turns out is the clear CMOS button. When I started up the PC again it told me the BIOS settings were gone or something and I'm not really sure what happened from there, I had to press F10 then F8 or something (just followed on screen commands) and the PC booted into Windows like normal.
Now the PC is showing some odd behaviour on start up though. When I press the on button, the PC will start booting up, all my fans come on, etc etc. Then it turns itself off again for a second. Then it starts up again and boots into Windows like normal, and everything works fine.
So my questions are:
1) What has pressing that clear CMOS button done? I understand it resets your BIOS settings? Is the overclock on my CPU affected?
2) Any idea why the computer is doing the on-off-on thing when I turn it on?
I bought an overclocked CPU/Mobo combo from Overclockers.co.uk a few years back. The CPU is a Core i7 overclocked to about 4Ghz (or maybe a little more?). It was done by the retailer and delivered attached to the mobo. I don't know anything about overclocking or how to do it but I understand you change stuff in your BIOS settings?
So yeah, the other day I was moving the PC and I accidentally pushed some little button on the back panel of the mobo... which it turns out is the clear CMOS button. When I started up the PC again it told me the BIOS settings were gone or something and I'm not really sure what happened from there, I had to press F10 then F8 or something (just followed on screen commands) and the PC booted into Windows like normal.
Now the PC is showing some odd behaviour on start up though. When I press the on button, the PC will start booting up, all my fans come on, etc etc. Then it turns itself off again for a second. Then it starts up again and boots into Windows like normal, and everything works fine.
So my questions are:
1) What has pressing that clear CMOS button done? I understand it resets your BIOS settings? Is the overclock on my CPU affected?
2) Any idea why the computer is doing the on-off-on thing when I turn it on?
The on off thing is fairly mysterious issue, it can be because some bios setting needs a soft reset to be applied. Nothing is broken.
They may have saved the overclock settings in an overclock profile in the BIOS. You would just need to load it up.
lostsupper
Banned
Dolphin needs high clock speeds, which produce a lot of heat. NUC's don't have room for large coolers, so they won't be Dolphin-viable for a long time.
So I didn't know profiles in BIOS were a thing, I went in there and had a look, there's a profile called "ocuk" which it seems to be loading so yeah I'd say the overclock is still there and fine.
I didn't really know what I was doing so didn't attempt resetting anything. The on-off-on is kinda annoying but as long as I know everything is ok with the computer, it's only really costing me 10s when I turn the PC on so I can live with it.
Thanks.
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