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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Devildoll

Member
I was under the impression that it should work despite the different speeds. Is that not correct?

Without personal experience with either of the products, just looking at the specs, they should work fine together.
According to the memory link you posted, the sticks have presets for 1333 1600 and 1866.
 

Syroc

Tarsier Studios
Without personal experience with either of the products, just looking at the specs, they should work fine together.
According to the memory link you posted, the sticks have presets for 1333 1600 and 1866.

Hmm, i just tried it with different RAM running 1600. Now it doesn't beep at all but I'm still getting no picture.
 

AYF 001

Member

First off, thanks for the help! Between your suggestions and the OP's guide I was able to find quite a few cheaper alternatives I wouldn't have considered otherwise. For the i5 build the RAM gave me the same voltage error as well, so I decided to stick with the first choice. Anyway, I'll show you the two updated builds just so you can have an idea where I stand now:

BUILD #1.1

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nsBR6h
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nsBR6h/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($299.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI X99S SLI Plus ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Micro Center)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($21.98 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 Stealth Edition Wired Gaming Keyboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder Wired Optical Mouse ($41.95 @ Amazon)
Total: $1238.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-03 09:25 EDT-0400

BUILD #2.1

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Gdcsgs
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Gdcsgs/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($115.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($108.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.69 @ NCIX US)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($21.98 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 Stealth Edition Wired Gaming Keyboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder Wired Optical Mouse ($41.95 @ Amazon)
Total: $981.53
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-03 09:30 EDT-0400

Now that the builds are as lean as I think they can be, I'll explain my situation for some final bits of input. While I do like the fact the i5 build can get my an almost fully functional rig for $1k currently, I'm worried that the lack of hyperthreading will be an issue later on. A few of my friends are getting into Star Citizen, and they said games like that and BF4 are very CPU reliant. Also, I have done quite a bit of engineering/CAD work in the past, and my i7 laptop has done admirably in that regard.

Ultimately I think I'll go for the i7 build at this rate, so are there any final tweaks I should be aware of? The only issues I'm aware of are the case being so large as to prevent power cables from reaching and that I am still tempted by the Samsung EVO or Pro SSDs.
 

riflen

Member
PCPer review Intel's 750 NVMe SSDs. Unbelievable performance, beating other 4 x RAID0 solutions. Capable of more than 2.4GB/s, 4 x faster than the best SATA SSDs.
 

Devildoll

Member
PCPer review Intel's 750 NVMe SSDs. Unbelievable performance, beating other 4 x RAID0 solutions. Capable of more than 2.4GB/s, 4 x faster than the best SATA SSDs.

Yeah solid state can reach some sweet numbers when it isnt tied to the sata's 600 mbps interface limit.
Sequential read and write speed isnt all that matters though.
Does it have the iops and small read/write to back it up?
 

Water

Member
PCPer review Intel's 750 NVMe SSDs. Unbelievable performance, beating other 4 x RAID0 solutions. Capable of more than 2.4GB/s, 4 x faster than the best SATA SSDs.

Price isn't too bad either, clearly getting to a point where it's starting to be reasonable for some enthusiasts and not just professional workstations. At a little under 400 euros, I can now either get a 1TB SATA SSD, or this screaming fast 400GB PCIe SSD.

Also note the significance of NVMe. There were already PCIe SSDs available from Samsung, even though they haven't been marketed for consumers yet, but there's a major difference in convenience since NVMe makes this drive bootable. And the fact this is an advertised, packaged product not just intended for OEMs means the fight is on. I hope Samsung or others counter this with a fully enthusiast-targeted product with 1TB at a good price, doesn't matter if it's at the cost of some enterprisey performance.

Another long review at Anandtech.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/9090/intel-ssd-750-pcie-ssd-review-nvme-for-the-client
 
So if I connect an external HD to my home network, can I install games to that and run them from any computer on the network? If so, does the game data being streamed over the network hurt the performance at all?
 
Is it considered acceptable to make posts in this thread regarding selling of used PC parts or gift cards for NCIX? I feel like I've seen posts in here from time-to-time but I don't want to post if I'm mistaken.

Not talking about huge sales or anything, just a small couple items I have that I want to get out of here.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Is it considered acceptable to make posts in this thread regarding selling of used PC parts or gift cards for NCIX? I feel like I've seen posts in here from time-to-time but I don't want to post if I'm mistaken.

Not talking about huge sales or anything, just a small couple items I have that I want to get out of here.
Totally.
 

RGM79

Member
First off, thanks for the help! Between your suggestions and the OP's guide I was able to find quite a few cheaper alternatives I wouldn't have considered otherwise. For the i5 build the RAM gave me the same voltage error as well, so I decided to stick with the first choice. Anyway, I'll show you the two updated builds just so you can have an idea where I stand now:

Now that the builds are as lean as I think they can be, I'll explain my situation for some final bits of input. While I do like the fact the i5 build can get my an almost fully functional rig for $1k currently, I'm worried that the lack of hyperthreading will be an issue later on. A few of my friends are getting into Star Citizen, and they said games like that and BF4 are very CPU reliant. Also, I have done quite a bit of engineering/CAD work in the past, and my i7 laptop has done admirably in that regard.

Ultimately I think I'll go for the i7 build at this rate, so are there any final tweaks I should be aware of? The only issues I'm aware of are the case being so large as to prevent power cables from reaching and that I am still tempted by the Samsung EVO or Pro SSDs.

RAM voltages are really a non-issue with i5 processors. Technically all RAM that runs above 1333MHz is overclocked, and overclocking further requires more voltage. Some models are able to attain higher speeds with less voltage, and others require more voltage. In any case ~1.65V is relatively safe but the choice is yours, $115 isn't that bad for 16GB of 2133MHz RAM I guess.

If you will be doing engineering and CAD work, then I also support you going for the i7 5820K build. That said, you could definitely go for a different choice of case. Nothing wrong with the Phanteks Enthoo Pro, it's very roomy and offers high end features and design. It is larger than most people will need, though, so a mid-tower case might be a better idea.

Any features you think you might want in a case? Color? Size? Case window? Emphasis on airflow or noise-reducing design? Simple/clean design or gamer aesthetic? In terms of brands, there's Antec, Bitfenix, Cooler Master, Corsair, Fractal, NZXT, Silverstone..

So if I connect an external HD to my home network, can I install games to that and run them from any computer on the network? If so, does the game data being streamed over the network hurt the performance at all?

Load times can suffer according to how fast your home network is, but once it's loaded framerate shouldn't be an issue unless it's something like an open world game that may stutter when it tries to load game data in the background. Steam In-Home streaming works in a different way, it's streaming the audio/video rendered on the host to the client PC, as opposed to streaming the game files from host PC and processing/rendering on the client PC.

Is it considered acceptable to make posts in this thread regarding selling of used PC parts or gift cards for NCIX? I feel like I've seen posts in here from time-to-time but I don't want to post if I'm mistaken.

Not talking about huge sales or anything, just a small couple items I have that I want to get out of here.

There's a B/S/T thread on Neogaf's community side, but we don't have any issues with cross-posting your sales here. A guy listed his 7970 graphics card here a few days ago and it was snatched up within 9 minutes of posting in this thread.
 
Went to newegg to order an aftermarket heatsink and fan for my 7970. So, of course I had to add a new case as well to fit the monster. And if I'm getting a new case I may as well get a new liquid CPU cooler. $100 turned into $350 really quick. Looking forward to next week though haha!

Has anyone overclocked the 7970 successfully? I may dabble a little with the new cooler, but I've never overclocked before and am a little wary.
 

The Llama

Member
Went to newegg to order an aftermarket heatsink and fan for my 7970. So, of course I had to add a new case as well to fit the monster. And if I'm getting a new case I may as well get a new liquid CPU cooler. $100 turned into $350 really quick. Looking forward to next week though haha!

Has anyone overclocked the 7970 successfully? I may dabble a little with the new cooler, but I've never overclocked before and am a little wary.

What kind of 7970 do you have? You generally don't need to have an aftermarket HSF with GPU's (unless your fans broke, or something like that).
 
Hey guys,

I'm getting a new PC in the coming weeks, but I'm not going to be playing anything heavy on it really. The Sims 4 and one of the new Settlers games. Just world building games mainly. It comes with 32GB of ram and an i7-4790 4ghz. Unfortunately from looking online it looks like my graphics card is pretty low end. Its an R7-250. This would still be good for those games right? I'm not sure how upgradable the graphics card will be in the future as I haven't seen inside the case, but I just wanted to make sure the card isn't going to cripple me.
 
Is it considered acceptable to make posts in this thread regarding selling of used PC parts or gift cards for NCIX? I feel like I've seen posts in here from time-to-time but I don't want to post if I'm mistaken.

Not talking about huge sales or anything, just a small couple items I have that I want to get out of here.
I sold my old 7970 in the b/s/t last week. I cross posted to this thread since it seemed more relevant. I will be doing the same with my gtx 980 when my Titan ships from Amazon.
 
Hey guys,

I'm getting a new PC in the coming weeks, but I'm not going to be playing anything heavy on it really. The Sims 4 and one of the new Settlers games. Just world building games mainly. It comes with 32GB of ram and an i7-4790 4ghz. Unfortunately from looking online it looks like my graphics card is pretty low end. Its an R7-250. This would still be good for those games right? I'm not sure how upgradable the graphics card will be in the future as I haven't seen inside the case, but I just wanted to make sure the card isn't going to cripple me.
That is such a weird setup. Why do you need so much RAM? Are you going to make it a server machine or what? Is it a pre-built?
 
What kind of 7970 do you have? You generally don't need to have an aftermarket HSF with GPU's (unless your fans broke, or something like that).

It's the Sapphire HD. One of the two fans stopped spinning so I had to replace it. I took it apart and reseated the fans but it still wouldn't spin.
 

The Llama

Member
Hey guys,

I'm getting a new PC in the coming weeks, but I'm not going to be playing anything heavy on it really. The Sims 4 and one of the new Settlers games. Just world building games mainly. It comes with 32GB of ram and an i7-4790 4ghz. Unfortunately from looking online it looks like my graphics card is pretty low end. Its an R7-250. This would still be good for those games right? I'm not sure how upgradable the graphics card will be in the future as I haven't seen inside the case, but I just wanted to make sure the card isn't going to cripple me.

That is such a weird setup. Why do you need so much RAM? Are you going to make it a server machine or what? Is it a pre-built?

Yeah, that's a VERY unbalanced built, even for a pre-built. Can't you reduce the RAM and get a better GPU?
Or ideally cancel it and build your own.

It's the Sapphire HD. One of the two fans stopped spinning so I had to replace it. I took it apart and reseated the fans but it still wouldn't spin.

Ah, ok then!
 
This is how it looked at 2pm.

bADRHhw.jpg


Then at about 4.30pm

0j4JXyK.jpg


Then at 8pm....

0cs9uEe.jpg


Can't belive its done. Although I'm too scared to try and turn it on. I don't want to know if I have fucked it up.
 

RGM79

Member
Hey guys,

I'm getting a new PC in the coming weeks, but I'm not going to be playing anything heavy on it really. The Sims 4 and one of the new Settlers games. Just world building games mainly. It comes with 32GB of ram and an i7-4790 4ghz. Unfortunately from looking online it looks like my graphics card is pretty low end. Its an R7-250. This would still be good for those games right? I'm not sure how upgradable the graphics card will be in the future as I haven't seen inside the case, but I just wanted to make sure the card isn't going to cripple me.

It should be able to handle those games at moderate settings. I am almost sure that you will need a better power supply if you want to upgrade to a better graphics card, though.
 

TronLight

Everybody is Mikkelsexual
I use an RM750, its good. I love how silent it is. May not be the absolutely best value (or quality for the price) but for what it is, I really like it.

I got it as an exchange for my TX650. It looks like a good thing (this is fully modular vs non-modular, silent profile and it's newer), but I read HardOCP review and they gave it a failing score. But it looks like it was because the fan would not turn on at the right times, and the PSU would shut down itself. Appartently Corsair saw this and fixed it.

They said current output was great, so I guess that if Corsair fixed the fan issue it shouldn't be worried?
 

The Llama

Member
I got it as an exchange for my TX650. It looks like a good thing (this is fully modular vs non-modular, silent profile and it's newer), but I read HardOCP review and they gave it a failing score. But it looks like it was because the fan would not turn on at the right times, and the PSU would shut down itself. Appartently Corsair saw this and fixed it.

They said current output was great, so I guess that if Corsair fixed the fan issue it shouldn't be worried?

The idea behind the RM series is for them to be silent, so the fans don't turn on until they reach a certain temperature/usage. Apparently in the first-gen ones the fans just didn't turn on at all (or something like that) and they overheated and failed. But they fixed that pretty quickly, so they're solid.
 

TronLight

Everybody is Mikkelsexual
The idea behind the RM series is for them to be silent, so the fans don't turn on until they reach a certain temperature/usage. Apparently in the first-gen ones the fans just didn't turn on at all (or something like that) and they overheated and failed. But they fixed that pretty quickly, so they're solid.
Good to hear!
I just noticed this is 80+Gold, my TX was just Bronze. Looks like an update so far!

Won't be able to try it until Christmas but I'm sure it'll be fine.
 

RGM79

Member
The idea behind the RM series is for them to be silent, so the fans don't turn on until they reach a certain temperature/usage. Apparently in the first-gen ones the fans just didn't turn on at all (or something like that) and they overheated and failed. But they fixed that pretty quickly, so they're solid.

Good to hear!
I just noticed this is 80+Gold, my TX was just Bronze. Looks like an update so far!

Won't be able to try it until Christmas but I'm sure it'll be fine.

Here's the technical and physical breakdown of the Corsair RM series flaws. If the silence works for you, then they're alright, just not the best quality power supply you can buy.
 
That is such a weird setup. Why do you need so much RAM? Are you going to make it a server machine or what? Is it a pre-built?

Yeah, that's a VERY unbalanced built, even for a pre-built. Can't you reduce the RAM and get a better GPU?
Or ideally cancel it and build your own.



Ah, ok then!

It should be able to handle those games at moderate settings. I am almost sure that you will need a better power supply if you want to upgrade to a better graphics card, though.

Yeah its prebuilt and no options to change things around. 32GB does seem ridiculous, but I guess its future proof.

At least I know I can run the games I want fairly well. Thanks.
 

RGM79

Member
Oh wow that looks really easy, thanks. How difficult is it to cut through the metal? I don't have any saws so would have to pick something up.

Well, you'd have to spend money on or borrow a tool like a Dremel cutter.. looks like the guy in that link had a reciprocating saw? But cutting is only needed if you wanted to mount the radiator on top and the fans below next to the motherboard.

Other people have mounted it without having to cut out part of their case, what they did was switch the position of the fan and the radiator so the fans are on top and the radiator is next to the motherboard. Not sure if that fan placement is optimum, though.
 
Well, you'd have to spend money on or borrow a tool like a Dremel cutter.. looks like the guy in that link had a reciprocating saw? But cutting is only needed if you wanted to mount the radiator on top and the fans below next to the motherboard.

Other people have mounted it without having to cut out part of their case, what they did was switch the position of the fan and the radiator so the fans are on top and the radiator is next to the motherboard. Not sure if that fan placement is optimum, though.

Certainly not optimum, but it will work for the time being I think. Thanks for all the help! Glad I don't have to RMA anything this time.
 
I'm selling my used nVidia MSI 560 Ti 1 Twin Frozr II 1 GB. Asking $65 which includes the cost of shipping. More details can be found in my B/S/T thread post.

I'm also selling a $20 giftcard for NCIX (I think exclusive to NCIXUS, not sure if it'll work in NCIX.ca) for $15. I received it as a promo for a first-time order on NCIXUS recently but since I doubt I'll be buying more PC stuff within the next couple years I'd rather just get a reduced-value of cash now and pass on the small savings to a Gaffer.

PM me if you're interested in either!
 

xBladeM6x

Member
What would you guys recommend in the way of closed loop water coolers? I tend to lean with Corsair, but I just don't know which one is the best for being both quiet, and also low temps.
 

ricki42

Member
I suppose I'm also factoring in aesthetics. If I did an air cooler, I would likely just go with the Hyper Evo 212, but I think my RAM sticks are too high. (they are Corsair Vengeance with the super high heat spreaders) The average I was expecting to spend is like $100.

Depending on your motherboard and on how many sticks you have, it may still fit. I have Corsair Vengeance Pro sticks on an Asus Z97-A, and two sticks fit next to the Hyper 212 Evo without problem. Adding 2 more sticks would have required mounting the fan a bit higher. I currently have a Noctua NH-D14, which is wider, so I had to do just that (mount the fan a bit higher), so it's a bit annoying if I need to reach the RAM sticks for some reason, but otherwise it's not a problem.
 

RGM79

Member
I suppose I'm also factoring in aesthetics. If I did an air cooler, I would likely just go with the Hyper Evo 212, but I think my RAM sticks are too high. (they are Corsair Vengeance with the super high heat spreaders) The average I was expecting to spend is like $100.

Sorry, I also forgot you ask you what case you have. That will determine what sort of cooler you can fit in your PC. Actually, you might as well list your system specs.

For that price range, I think the best water coolers you could get are the Corsair H80i GT (140mm, $100), the H100i (240mm, $98) or the H110 (280mm, $100 after $10 rebate).

That said, you could go with a cheaper yet similar performing air cooler like the Phanteks PH-TC14PE ($60~70 in a variety of colors) as long as it fits in your case. According to testing by Bit-Tech and CustomPCReview, the Phanteks air cooler does very well, often within just a few degrees and at a lower noise level. RAM compatibility with most air coolers is actually fairly easy, you can just slide the fan up to allow the RAM under the heatsink to fit underneath (Corsair Vengeance RAM pictured), although that will of course also require case width to accommodate the fan being mounted higher.
 

LilJoka

Member
Pump noise is annoying enough for me to stay away from liquid cooling atleast without top end pumps on custom kits. Stick with air unless you are forced to go liquid.
 

Rebel Leader

THE POWER OF BUTTERSCOTCH BOTTOMS
I need help, I'm thinking about taking it to geek squad or someplace


It started up and immeadity shuts down before the MB brand icon shows, startsd up agian and shows uefi bios on a blank screen, shuts down

Starts up again and load windows normally (agian)

Didn't have the problem for a while

I tried different RAM and don't think that's the problem
My mom's friends tell me to unplug my ethernet, wait 2 minutes then shut down the computer to see if problem still occurs.

Says the ehternet port could be bad
 

ricki42

Member
This is my build. I know I could put essentially anything in this case. I had always leaned on the H105, only because I really like the way the actual heat sink looks with the rings. Also, you'll see in this build, my RAM has huge spreaders.

The Hyper Evo at least should fit. It may block the RAM slot closest to the CPU, but you can just use the 2nd and 4th slot.
 
Guys, I posted in here yesterday about getting the following desktop

Dell Outlet Inspiron 3847
Processor: Intel Core 4th Generation i5-4460 Processor (6MB Cache, up to 3.4GHz)
Windows 8.1
1 TB SATA Hard Drive (7200 RPM)
12 GB Memory (8GBx1 + 4GBx1) Dual Channel DDR3 1600MHz
Tray load DVD Drive (Reads and Writes to DVD/CD)
Intel HD Integrated Graphics
======================================================

I'm going to upgrade the video card from the intel to something along the lines of the GeForce GTX 750 1 GB or 750 Ti 2 GB. I did a little bit of research on the card and that seems like the best bang for your buck within the budget I'm trying for(around 100-130).
My questions are:

What all do I need to upgrade the video card? Is it as simple as taking one out and placing the other in?

Will I need to upgrade the power supply or w/e? I saw a post somewhere when I google searched that depending on what your upgrading, a new power thing may be needed. I couldve read it wrong.

Either video card should be good for LoL. If I go with the 2gb card, I should be prepared for most current games correct(Skyrim,Sims,Shogun 2 etc.)?
 

RGM79

Member
Guys, I posted in here yesterday about getting the following desktop

Dell Outlet Inspiron 3847
Processor: Intel Core 4th Generation i5-4460 Processor (6MB Cache, up to 3.4GHz)
Windows 8.1
1 TB SATA Hard Drive (7200 RPM)
12 GB Memory (8GBx1 + 4GBx1) Dual Channel DDR3 1600MHz
Tray load DVD Drive (Reads and Writes to DVD/CD)
Intel HD Integrated Graphics
======================================================

I'm going to upgrade the video card from the intel to something along the lines of the GeForce GTX 750 1 GB or 750 Ti 2 GB. I did a little bit of research on the card and that seems like the best bang for your buck within the budget I'm trying for(around 100-130).
My questions are:

What all do I need to upgrade the video card? Is it as simple as taking one out and placing the other in?

Will I need to upgrade the power supply or w/e? I saw a post somewhere when I google searched that depending on what your upgrading, a new power thing may be needed. I couldve read it wrong.

Either video card should be good for LoL. If I go with the 2gb card, I should be prepared for most current games correct(Skyrim,Sims,Shogun 2 etc.)?

1. Pretty much that's all you need to do, as long as the card fits in the case (probably does).

2. You most likely don't need to upgrade the power supply, as long as you buy a graphics card that doesn't require an additional power cable. Most if not all of the GTX 750 models don't need that, while some higher end GTX 750 Ti models do need it.

3. The graphics card should be good for some gaming at middle of the road to high settings, depending on the game. Yeah, I'd recommend 2GB if you can go for it.
 
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