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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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levious

That throwing stick stunt of yours has boomeranged on us.
Help!

So I put together a pc, boots up fine but having errors trying to install windows from a usb drive. First I got this error:

"we couldn't create a new partition or locate an existing one"

Found some instructions on microsoft's site to fix the problem through command prompt. These were the instructions:

Start DISKPART.

Type LIST DISK and identify your SSD disk number (from 0 to n disks).

Type SELECT DISK <n> where <n> is your SSD disk number.

Type CLEAN

Type CREATE PARTITION PRIMARY

Type ACTIVE

Type FORMAT FS=NTFS QUICK

Type ASSIGN

Type EXIT twice (one to get out of DiskPart, the other to exit the command line tool)


Now I am getting this error:

"windows cannot be installed to this disk the selected disk has an mbr partition table"

Not sure what to do now.
 
Help!

So I put together a pc, boots up fine but having errors trying to install windows from a usb drive. First I got this error:

"we couldn't create a new partition or locate an existing one"

Found some instructions on microsoft's site to fix the problem through command prompt. These were the instructions:

Start DISKPART.

Type LIST DISK and identify your SSD disk number (from 0 to n disks).

Type SELECT DISK <n> where <n> is your SSD disk number.

Type CLEAN

Type CREATE PARTITION PRIMARY

Type ACTIVE

Type FORMAT FS=NTFS QUICK

Type ASSIGN

Type EXIT twice (one to get out of DiskPart, the other to exit the command line tool)


Now I am getting this error:

"windows cannot be installed to this disk the selected disk has an mbr partition table"

Not sure what to do now.

You are trying to make a EFI/SecureBoot Windows 10 installation on an MBR partition, won't work.

Refer to this: https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dn336946.aspx

Basically, re-install but in diskpart remove ALL partitions, then convert it to GPT for install.

select disk <disk number>
clean
convert gpt
exit

Then install. Fuck Win 10, but hey, still trying to help :p
 

levious

That throwing stick stunt of yours has boomeranged on us.
Ah thank you! So after CLEAN, do CONVERT GPT?


Ah missed your edit. Thanks very much.
 

levious

That throwing stick stunt of yours has boomeranged on us.
Newer motherboards will only install Windows as GPT I think. You can get to see if your motherboard has a legacy mode an enable it. It's a known thing with USB installs. Or google a lot:

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers...-mbr-partition-table-efi-systems-windows.html

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1846660/mbr-gpt-confused.html

Basically- do you have an optical drive and can you install windows from a DVD instead?


I could hook up an optical drive and create a disk. Would the above instructions not work as well?
 
Hey GAF, I"m running into a slight problem with my PC. I was playing some games last night, and it was as fast as the day I built it. So today I hopped on and it was acting slow, and responds slower than usual. It will boot up, but take like 5-20 seconds longer than usual, and about 30 seconds to log into windows. Once it's on the desktop it will only show my recycle bin and all the other icons are gone or replaced with the paper icon. Sometimes windows 10 won't even respond until I reboot the PC. Last night It also won't download games on steam anymore. It will start the process when you start to download but slowly (the local cache thing when you first start to download something) then it will stop. Steam will say no connection but the PC says it has a connection. Right now it's downloading games fine, so I'm not sure what's that about. I don't want to have to reboot it every time I turn it on. Do I need to do a clean install of Windows or it could be something else?

It didn't start doing this until I installed some drivers from a disc that came with my GPU
 

rtcn63

Member
It didn't start doing this until I installed some drivers from a disc that came with my GPU

First- off try uninstalling the drivers and download the updated ones from the proper website. (Nvidia etc.)

Check the Event Viewer in Windows to see if there are any recent errors, particularly related to the hard drive. (i.e. bad sectors- time to replace your shit) It could be failing, or you might have dislodged a power/data cable while installing your GPU (I'm assuming).

I could hook up an optical drive and create a disk. Would the above instructions not work as well?

If you're doing it from DVD, I don't remember there being any extra hoops to go through. You'd have to install as GPT, but I'm not sure if you're given a choice for a boot hard drive. Google anyways to be safe.
 

Vuze

Member
ok thanks for your input.
I might consider that. ill check how much that would add.
so, i5 is good enough?
Also, i want this thing to be silent when im not gaming on it. I want to have it hooked up to a 4k TV and a still to be purchased monitor of unkown specs.
I take it that this PC would only use the 1070 for gaming purposes and use the cpu internal gpu for desktop use? So when i want to watch youtube videos on my TV with it, the GPU will not make extreme noise?

what monitor would you recommend?
im thinkg about 27", ive heard 144hz is the shit these days? Do i need G-sync? what resolution? FullHD seems a bit low.
i5 is good enough, if you play a lot of modern (DX11) open world games an i7 might be beneficial.

No, if you hook up the monitor/TV to the GPU, the GPU will drive these displays. That being said, most modern GPUs with aftermarket cooler don't turn on their fans up until a certain temperature (usually about 60C, so game load). I'm not familiar with your specific model, so check that to be sure. Hard drives are the worst offendors for idle noise anyway.

1440p is a nice match for 27". Text is large enough to not need extra scaling while providing quite a bit of extra workspace and of course IQ. Gsync is worth considering if you plan to play on the monitor for the majority of time. 1440p144 Gsync displays aren't cheap though; it might be worth waiting for next years line up to be announced/released too. New models are expected to be shown off at CES in early January.
 

Steiner84

All 26 hours. Multiple times.
i5 is good enough, if you play a lot of modern (DX11) open world games an i7 might be beneficial.

No, if you hook up the monitor/TV to the GPU, the GPU will drive these displays. That being said, most modern GPUs with aftermarket cooler don't turn on their fans up until a certain temperature (usually about 60C, so game load). I'm not familiar with your specific model, so check that to be sure. Hard drives are the worst offendors for idle noise anyway.

1440p is a nice match for 27". Text is large enough to not need extra scaling while providing quite a bit of extra workspace and of course IQ. Gsync is worth considering if you plan to play on the monitor for the majority of time. 1440p144 Gsync displays aren't cheap though; it might be worth waiting for next years line up to be announced/released too. New models are expected to be shown off at CES in early January.

that sounds ace.
ive seen the i5 k model isnt that much more than the one i had in mind, so i think i will be going for it.

ok, thanks for the info on the gpu and monitor. im not planing to play on the TV (for the most part at least), Ill just hook it up for youtube and twitch, etc.
ive just took a quick look at amazon and they dont even have a 1440p 27" with 144hz and g-sync...

edit: ok, found this on the us site
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MSOND8C/?tag=neogaf0e-20

is a hefty pricetag, indeed...
hmmm
i might wait for new models. only problem is, only standalone monitor i currently have is a 10 year old 1680*1050 22" TN Panel...
 

kuYuri

Member
I ended up updating my PSU from the Rosewill RBR1000 to the Corsair RMx650. I really didn't need it, but it was on a decent deal and now I have full modularity and more efficiency. :p
 
First- off try uninstalling the drivers and download the updated ones from the proper website. (Nvidia etc.)

Check the Event Viewer in Windows to see if there are any recent errors, particularly related to the hard drive. (i.e. bad sectors- time to replace your shit) It could be failing, or you might have dislodged a power/data cable while installing your GPU (I'm assuming).



If you're doing it from DVD, I don't remember there being any extra hoops to go through. You'd have to install as GPT, but I'm not sure if you're given a choice for a boot hard drive. Google anyways to be safe.

I don't think it's my HDD, as I just built this thing like 2 weeks ago. I did reset Windows 10 in the settings and seems like it fixed the problem and it's running fast again. I will be updating the drivers via the website (which I'm guessing it's AMD's website as my GPU is a RX480 8GB) from now on though.
 
Question:

So I have my relatively recent build: i5 4670, GTX 970, 8gb RAM. I have my PC connected to my 4k TV. At what price point does it makes sense to pick up another 970 for SLI instead of a 1070/1080ti (when it releases)? My PSU is 750W, and my motherboard can run SLI so I should be able to slot another 970 in no problem. Ideally, I'd like to run 4k / 1440p as close to 60fps as possible. I usually don't play games as soon as they release so SLI support should be there and the 970s have gotten pretty cheap. Thoughts?
 

Bloodember

Member
Tried both pwm and DC
I removed the usb cable from the kraken and tried again and fans started spinning at boot up. So what does that mean. :s

I have no idea, try a different USB cable maybe. Also if you have another USB header, try that.
Just to make sure, you do have all the connections from the Kraken connected, right? One fan needs to be connected to the 4 pin on the Kraken (I believe the Kraken only has one 4 pin and the rest are 3 pin, this is the way the X61 is).
 

knitoe

Member
Question:

So I have my relatively recent build: i5 4670, GTX 970, 8gb RAM. I have my PC connected to my 4k TV. At what price point does it makes sense to pick up another 970 for SLI instead of a 1070/1080ti (when it releases)? My PSU is 750W, and my motherboard can run SLI so I should be able to slot another 970 in no problem. Ideally, I'd like to run 4k / 1440p as close to 60fps as possible. I usually don't play games as soon as they release so SLI support should be there and the 970s have gotten pretty cheap. Thoughts?
I would not pickup another 970 due to 4GB VRAM. Many new games can go over 6GB so look for cards with at least 8GB VRAM for 4K.
 

ZBR

Member
Was it boxed? Like this:

thermaltake_core_v21_01t.JPG


It's supposed to come with this stuff:
thermaltake_core_v21_06t.JPG


Where did you buy it?

Yeah, it came boxed like that but it didn't come with the bag. I got it from Newegg as part of one of their DIY bundles (I'm building it for someone that needed a Windows computer for their small business). I tried calling them this morning and was on hold for a while before I hung-up and then sent them a text and still waiting for a reply. It has been three hours already.
 

bomblord1

Banned
Is there any benefit to using Steam Link on a 4K TV? Would Super Sampling help get a clearer image at all?

I have a new 4K TV in my front room and want to play some of my PC games on it.
 

Anustart

Member
Bah. Somehow I ordered ddr3 memory for this motherboard that takes ddr4.

How long does it take to get a refund from newegg usually?
 

bomblord1

Banned
Bah. Somehow I ordered ddr3 memory for this motherboard that takes ddr4.

How long does it take to get a refund from newegg usually?

You have to put in a refund request.
Wait for the approval (it's usually relatively quick).

Ship the item back and when they receive it you get the refund.

Also there's a restocking fee and you will need to pay to get a box or package to ship it back in. I only got a few dollars back from one item I shipped back because of that.

That's how it worked for me in the past.
 

Angry Grimace

Two cannibals are eating a clown. One turns to the other and says "does something taste funny to you?"
So I guess my follow up question to my M.2 SSD question is whether its actually worth it to try and set that up? I realize its more expensive, sure, but if we're talking a serious performance advantage, I'd at least consider it. It's already an expensive machine to begin with. It also seems like its kind of a pain in the ass to set up, though.
 

Bloodember

Member
So I guess my follow up question to my M.2 SSD question is whether its actually worth it to try and set that up? I realize its more expensive, sure, but if we're talking a serious performance advantage, I'd at least consider it. It's already an expensive machine to begin with.

If you want the speed, then yes it's worth it. Plus setting the m.2 up is no different than any other hard drive, relatively simple. I use a m.2 and it was more than worth it, plus there really isn't that much of a difference in price anymore.
 
Asking my question one more time, just in case:

Figured some of you might know: the official Microsoft support page for the Xbox one controllers with Bluetooth says that only one at a time is supported, but you can connect more and they may work. That seems super vague to me, can I use two or more at once through Bluetooth or do I really need that wireless adapter thing?
 

TronLight

Everybody is Mikkelsexual
Is there anywhere I can download a W10 Iso safely?

I have an education CD key, and I want to do a fresh install on my new SSD. The problem is that the official download from Microsoft it's slow as molasses, 15% in 1:30 hours on a 100mbps line. -_-

Edit: Should be legal right?
 

z3phon

Member
I have no idea, try a different USB cable maybe. Also if you have another USB header, try that.
Just to make sure, you do have all the connections from the Kraken connected, right? One fan needs to be connected to the 4 pin on the Kraken (I believe the Kraken only has one 4 pin and the rest are 3 pin, this is the way the X61 is).
Tried it with another usb cable, exactly same behavior. Yup tried the 4 pin connection for the fan too. I submitted a ticket on the NZXT website so waiting go hear back from them.
I even tried my corsair h115I stock fans on the Kraken x62 and even that works perfectly fine. It's just the noctua 4 pin fans that don't seem to be working correctly.

I was leaning towards it being the issue with the Asus board not giving enough power to the CPU_FAN header as you mentioned but the thing is as soon as CAM launches and the kraken lights switch to what I have set up, fans start spinning right after.
Also if I remove the USB connection from the Kraken X62 my noctua fans start spinning right upon boot up just fine.

Edit: yup raised the minimum fan speeds in the bios to DC, manual 100%,even tried at PWM 100%. Also upped the minimum speed to 600RPM
 

LilJoka

Member
Tried it with another usb cable, exactly same behavior. Yup tried the 4 pin connection for the fan too. I submitted a ticket on the NZXT website so waiting go hear back from them.

I even tried my corsair h115I stock fans on the Kraken x62 and even that works perfectly fine.
It's just the noctua 4 pin fans that don't seem to be working correctly.

Tried raising the minimum fan speed in bios?
 

Hesemonni

Banned
I've been toying with the idea of jumping in the Ultrawide master race bandwagon and finally get rid my old cheapo 23" monitor. I'll replace my trusty 2GB GTX770 and go with RX 480 AAAND Freesync while I'm at it.

Now, is there really any tangible difference between freesync and g-sync?
 
You should pick up an RX 480 over either. Cheaper than the 980, faster than the 1060.

i got a 144hz gsync monitor so i'll pass.

i also had only bad experiences with AMD (noisy, warm, failures). never again for me.

::

just looked it up and the 480 is in fact more expensive than the 1060 around here.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Hello PC GAF.

I've been out of the game for a long while. Looking to upgrade from my current setup:


Z87 + 4770K + 780 Ti Classy KPE

I know I should wait for Z270 + Kaby Lake, but if there isn't much in the pipeline for the next 3ish months, I was going to go ahead on a purchase of a new GPU. Leaning towards some 1070 variant, unless this is a bad decision. No AMD though, cause G-Sync.

I don't know the ins-and-outs of which non-reference cooler is the bees knees, so looking for advice on that.

I like factory overclocks, or overclocks that can be written to the card's BIOS. Having to fuck with software to make sure my card is running where i want it to be is something I am never going to bother with again.

Also, going from water to air, so no need to make sure that a card recommended works with waterblocks.

*edit*

I should also say, running AAA graphics hogs is not something I care about. If I'm being honest, 90% of my gameplay over the next year will be Rocket League and Europa Universalis + other paradox stuff. The remaning 10% is going to be the competitive game flavor of the month, and then strategy games like Total War.
 

R0ckman

Member
Just reposting my question on a new page -

I have a question hopefully someone can answer? I have a NXZT S530 only about 6 months old, and the NXZT led on the front doesn't always light up. Its not broken as far I can tell but sometimes when I turn on the comp it will light up. It had stayed on while using the comp until recently when I hadn't used it in about a week and a half. Last time it started working again was when I took out some USB devices I wasnt using in the back. I'm wondering if its because I have it in a power surge that is 100% full? Its not completely off, it get VERY dim.

Update: I put the cord in directly in the outlet to be sure. Light is still dim. Using EVGA gold, no other issues with LEDS in case.
 
I'm in the market for a gaming PC, my first one. My budget is $800 at the max. At this price am I going to be able to find a decent prebuildt PC or would it be more efficient to learn to build my own?

I'm not looking to play any VR stuff, or 4K. I would like to play most newer games at 1080p, 60fps if possible except for maybe the most graphically intensive AAA open world games.
 

LilJoka

Member
Hello PC GAF.

I've been out of the game for a long while. Looking to upgrade from my current setup:



Z87 + 4770K + 780 Ti Classy KPE

I know I should wait for Z270 + Kaby Lake, but if there isn't much in the pipeline for the next 3ish months, I was going to go ahead on a purchase of a new GPU. Leaning towards some 1070 variant, unless this is a bad decision. No AMD though, cause G-Sync.

I don't know the ins-and-outs of which non-reference cooler is the bees knees, so looking for advice on that.

I like factory overclocks, or overclocks that can be written to the card's BIOS. Having to fuck with software to make sure my card is running where i want it to be is something I am never going to bother with again.

Also, going from water to air, so no need to make sure that a card recommended works with waterblocks.

*edit*

I should also say, running AAA graphics hogs is not something I care about. If I'm being honest, 90% of my gameplay over the next year will be Rocket League and Europa Universalis + other paradox stuff. The remaning 10% is going to be the competitive game flavor of the month, and then strategy games like Total War.

Throw in a GTX 1070 and call it a day.
I went from 3770 to 6700k, no difference.
 

vector824

Member
I'm in the market for a gaming PC, my first one. My budget is $800 at the max. At this price am I going to be able to find a decent prebuildt PC or would it be more efficient to learn to build my own?

I'm not looking to play any VR stuff, or 4K. I would like to play most newer games at 1080p, 60fps if possible except for maybe the most graphically intensive AAA open world games.

Build your own, it's easy and the satisfaction is totally worth it.

This will get you there, unless you need kb+m and monitor... then you're going to want to save another $200.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($191.91 @ Jet)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($31.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($95.66 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($65.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($68.88 @ Jet)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.78 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 470 4GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($189.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.89 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $804.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-07 17:17 EST-0500
 

Bloodember

Member
Asking my question one more time, just in case:

Figured some of you might know: the official Microsoft support page for the Xbox one controllers with Bluetooth says that only one at a time is supported, but you can connect more and they may work. That seems super vague to me, can I use two or more at once through Bluetooth or do I really need that wireless adapter thing?
I believe it matters with your Bluetooth adapter it it allows more than one connection at a time
 

mkenyon

Banned
Throw in a GTX 1070 and call it a day.
I went from 3770 to 6700k, no difference.

ya, I know I won't even notice a difference. Looking to get a few of the features from the more recent chipsets though, so it's more about the chipset than it is the proc.

Then I'll be donating the mobo/proc/ram to a friend that needs it.

Still though, which 1070 is the one to get?
 
ya, I know I won't even notice a difference. Looking to get a few of the features from the more recent chipsets though, so it's more about the chipset than it is the proc.

Then I'll be donating the mobo/proc/ram to a friend that needs it.

Still though, which 1070 is the one to get?

Asus Strix OC.
 

Ramune

Member
Have a friend who is looking into building their first PC. He recently got back into PSO2, but has noticed his performance isn't as great because of the amount of lag he experienced during instances where a lot of action is happening on screen. He's looking to spend under $700. Was looking at this setup:
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/X4FdnQ

I'm a bit iffy on the FX CPU. Is this the best he can do? Not familiar with AMD's CPUs.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Have a friend who is looking into building their first PC. He recently got back into PSO2, but has noticed his performance isn't as great because of the amount of lag he experienced during instances where a lot of action is happening on screen. He's looking to spend under $700. Was looking at this setup:
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/X4FdnQ

I'm a bit iffy on the FX CPU. Is this the best he can do? Not familiar with AMD's CPUs.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rxM92R
 

Primus

Member
So I guess my follow up question to my M.2 SSD question is whether its actually worth it to try and set that up? I realize its more expensive, sure, but if we're talking a serious performance advantage, I'd at least consider it. It's already an expensive machine to begin with. It also seems like its kind of a pain in the ass to set up, though.

It shouldn't be. As long as the mobo is up to scratch, the M.2 SSD will look like just another hard drive to the Windows install. You can run into some issues with the mobos that have two M.2 slots, as one tends to be NVME and the other SATA. Just make sure to read the manual and use the specific NVME slot.
 
ya, I know I won't even notice a difference. Looking to get a few of the features from the more recent chipsets though, so it's more about the chipset than it is the proc.

Then I'll be donating the mobo/proc/ram to a friend that needs it.

Still though, which 1070 is the one to get?

MSI Gaming X, Asus Strix, Gigabyte G1 Gaming. They're all good cards (I have the MSI myself). I would normally add on the EVGA FTW but I dunno what's been going on with EVGA and the VRM problems.
 

levious

That throwing stick stunt of yours has boomeranged on us.
Newer motherboards will only install Windows as GPT I think. You can get to see if your motherboard has a legacy mode an enable it. It's a known thing with USB installs. Or google a lot:

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers...-mbr-partition-table-efi-systems-windows.html

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1846660/mbr-gpt-confused.html

Basically- do you have an optical drive and can you install windows from a DVD instead?

You are trying to make a EFI/SecureBoot Windows 10 installation on an MBR partition, won't work.

Refer to this: https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dn336946.aspx

Basically, re-install but in diskpart remove ALL partitions, then convert it to GPT for install.



Then install. Fuck Win 10, but hey, still trying to help :p


Installing now, thanks for all the info.
 

BadWolf

Member
Ordered parts from NCIX and had them assemble the PC.

It just came in, I unpacked the box and opened the case to take the internal packaging out.

I plugged the power cord where it should go, the mouse and keyboard into the USBs and the DVI cord from the monitor into graphics card.

Tried turning it on but it keeps turning on and off, nothing shows on the monitor. It powers on (you can see the power button glow) and the fan starts whirling but then it turns off a few seconds later and then turns on again, doing the same thing over and over.

Any ideas?
 
Ordered parts from NCIX and had them assemble the PC.

It just came in, I unpacked the box and opened the case to take the internal packaging out.

I plugged the power cord where it should go, the mouse and keyboard into the USBs and the DVI cord from the monitor into graphics card.

Tried turning it on but it keeps turning on and off, nothing shows on the monitor. It powers on (you can see the power button glow) and the fan starts whirling but then it turns off a few seconds later and then turns on again, doing the same thing over and over.

Any ideas?

Some motherboards have diagnostic lights (or LED displays) that can tell you if something is wrong. Can you check to see if yours does?

I would be inclined to check all cable/power connections, detach anything unnecessary, and if needed, reset the CMOS. Don't know how comfortable you are with this stuff though.

That or just call NCIX, or wait for other people to chime in. Boot loops were common when I was overclocking too much, but I doubt that's your problem. What are the specs by the way?
 

Joco

Member
Well I'm ordering a new motherboard. I'm crossing my fingers this is the cause of the stuttering issues. I'm about ready to give up otherwise.
 
Well I'm ordering a new motherboard. I'm crossing my fingers this is the cause of the stuttering issues. I'm about ready to give up otherwise.

Got any posts I can check out? Mobo would be a weird one (though not impossible), at least on the hardware side. Mobo-related software maybe.
 

Joco

Member
Got any posts I can check out? Mobo would be a weird one (though not impossible), at least on the hardware side. Mobo-related software maybe.

If you go into my posting history my last few posts should be about the issue. I could post an update later once I'm done with work as well.
 
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