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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

ChazGW7

Member
Questions:

Is the rest of my rig OK to just install this new card?

How much improvement will i see in general (i understand i'm going fro 2 cards to 1) ?

Is there any bottlenecks in my machine that will seriously effect performance?

I really appreciate any help you can give before i shell out the cash : )

1. Yep, your rig will handle that card perfectly.
2. Big increase in performance, around double the FPS you currently get in modern titles perhaps. Plus you don't have to deal with SLI troubles anymore.
3. Your CPU is plenty strong enough. It will be a bottleneck in open world games but not by a large factor at all. Plenty life in it yet.
 
So does anybody here have experience creating custom resolutions as they do in this video? Because despite following these instructions and it seeming to work initially, the custom resolutions simply don't show up, either in desktop settings, nvidia control panel settings, or in games. And yes I tried restarting the PC after doing the process.

I then went through the process of going into nvidia control panel and adding a custom 3200x1800 resolution, which did provide a new "custom" entry to my resolution list in Nvidia control panel, but which nevertheless does not show up for desktop resolution or inside games. If I manually switch to that res using control panel, it's a bit of a disaster as my TV won't scale correctly for some reason.

Please explain this to me like I'm 5.

Videocard: 980ti
Display: Sony X9000E (X900E in America)
 

Baleoce

Member
What's the name of that popular program people use to do write/read speed parsing on drives?

EDIT - Don't mind me, I found it in the OP xD (CrystalDiskMark). I'm installing an SSD later and just want to see the results for myself.

It does raise another question though, does anybody know any good software for HDD > SSD migration of an OS partition?

EDIT2 - Can anyone vouch for Macrium Reflect?
 

Raxious

Member
In terms of the CPU, you have basically picked the one that has the price/performance ratio. It's roughly on par with its Intel counterpart (i5 7500) in terms of games, is way better than it in anything but games, can be overclocked, has a decent cooler included and you have the advantage of 6 cores / 12 threads (i.e. more future-proof).

great , I'll stick to the R5 1600 then :)
Had to change the Memory cause apparently it's a lower speed, and the power supply needs to be upped to about 550w. Guess I know what i'll be ordering next week :D
 

RS4-

Member
So does anybody here have experience creating custom resolutions as they do in this video? Because despite following these instructions and it seeming to work initially, the custom resolutions simply don't show up, either in desktop settings, nvidia control panel settings, or in games. And yes I tried restarting the PC after doing the process.

I then went through the process of going into nvidia control panel and adding a custom 3200x1800 resolution, which did provide a new "custom" entry to my resolution list in Nvidia control panel, but which nevertheless does not show up for desktop resolution or inside games. If I manually switch to that res using control panel, it's a bit of a disaster as my TV won't scale correctly for some reason.

Please explain this to me like I'm 5.

Videocard: 980ti
Display: Sony X9000E (X900E in America)

I think it depends on the resolution you're attempting to create. Have you tried another one, like 3440x1440? Granted, I don't remember if I've tried CRU, but I've just done resolutions in Nvidia Control Panel.
 
In terms of the CPU, you have basically picked the one that has the price/performance ratio. It's roughly on par with its Intel counterpart (i5 7500) in terms of games, is way better than it in anything but games, can be overclocked, has a decent cooler included and you have the advantage of 6 cores / 12 threads (i.e. more future-proof).

One peculiar perk of the Ryzen 1600 is that if you overclock it to around 3.9-4Ghz, it's gaming performance is the same as a Skylake X 6-core overclocked to 4.7. See HardwareUnboxed's recent 30-title test.
 
Quick question .

Is surge protector really necessary ? Do you need back up battery as well ? I live in the U$.

Do you have storms in your region?

I like the convenience and extra safety. Ever so often when there is a storm the electricity would fluctuate for a fraction of a second and would turn off my computer, not anymore after I got a better surge protector (unless I'm doing something really tasking). You don't even need one with a back up battery depending on your setup, sometimes my brother's computer stays on when the power goes and comes back quick with games like Black Desert Online running and he only notices because he loses connection
 
1. Yep, your rig will handle that card perfectly.
2. Big increase in performance, around double the FPS you currently get in modern titles perhaps. Plus you don't have to deal with SLI troubles anymore.
3. Your CPU is plenty strong enough. It will be a bottleneck in open world games but not by a large factor at all. Plenty life in it yet.

Very happy to hear all this :D
 
great , I'll stick to the R5 1600 then :)
Had to change the Memory cause apparently it's a lower speed, and the power supply needs to be upped to about 550w. Guess I know what i'll be ordering next week :D

3000 Mhz is actually fine for RAM. Depending on the prize either 3000 or 3200 are usually the sweet spot. Make sure that the specific you are choosing is on the compatibility list though! Ryzen can still be somewhat of a bitch in terms of RAM, although it has greatly improved in the last couple of months.

Just btw. I don't see you needing a beefier PSU. The GTX 1060 6GB draws sth. like 120W under full load. Your CPU may be hitting 100W under full load if OCed to 3.8-4 Ghz. The Pure Power 10 delivers up to 384W on the 12V rails, so it's just fine (don't believe those online watt calculators, they are notoriously wrong).

Edit: "that has the price/performance ratio" was supposed to say "that has the best price/performance ratio" ^^


One peculiar perk of the Ryzen 1600 is that if you overclock it to around 3.9-4Ghz, it's gaming performance is the same as a Skylake X 6-core overclocked to 4.7. See HardwareUnboxed's recent 30-title test.


I got one myself like a month ago and am pretty happy. I'm only doing a mild overclock so far (3.6 Ghz @ ~1.2V under full load), though. I'm still on a HD7870/2GB (thanks miners :/) and it's really showing its age now with the CPU being so much more powerful.
 
So I bought a used, "very good" condition Dell S2417DG from Adorama via Ebay for $290 shipped. Brand new, MSRP is $500, Amazon usually has it for about $425, and there are rare sales that drop it down to the $350 or $325 range. The "very good" condition means it might have scrapes, dings, or bruises but is in "fully functioning condition" and nothing that should "affect picture quality" so I'm hoping for the best.

Anyone ever purchased a used item from Adorama? Gonna try to be home when it is delivered to inspect it quickly and sign for it right there or reject it if it's in shit shape/the shipping box is mangled.

I'm psyched for <$300 1440p/165Hz/1ms/GSync goodness. 24" may seems small to most people, but it fits my desk perfectly and the 24" version of this monitor (as opposed to the 27") seems to have overall better reviews and of course a higher pixel density.
 

Raxious

Member
3000 Mhz is actually fine for RAM. Depending on the prize either 3000 or 3200 are usually the sweet spot. Make sure that the specific you are choosing is on the compatibility list though! Ryzen can still be somewhat of a bitch in terms of RAM, although it has greatly improved in the last couple of months.

Just btw. I don't see you needing a beefier PSU. The GTX 1060 6GB draws sth. like 120W under full load. Your CPU may be hitting 100W under full load if OCed to 3.8-4 Ghz. The Pure Power 10 delivers up to 384W on the 12V rails, so it's just fine (don't believe those online watt calculators, they are notoriously wrong).

Edit: "that has the price/performance ratio" was supposed to say "that has the best price/performance ratio" ^^





I got one myself like a month ago and am pretty happy. I'm only doing a mild overclock so far (3.6 Ghz @ ~1.2V under full load), though. I'm still on a HD7870/2GB (thanks miners :/) and it's really showing its age now with the CPU being so much more powerful.

This'll be the build I ended up with, what do you think?

izZLGdm.png
 
Hey everyone,

A little cross posting from the 1080ti thread. Was wondering what the opinion was in here:

I'm thinking of replacing the thermal paste on my SC2 with the noctura nt-H1. Anyone have any suggestions or advice before I go through with this? I want to see if I can get it a little cooler and improve the clock speeds a little more.

Should I go with a conductive paste like Conductonaut? Should I not even bother at all with this? I already have the nt-h1 so I could do it today which would be nice.
 
Hey everyone,

A little cross posting from the 1080ti thread. Was wondering what the opinion was in here:



Should I go with a conductive paste like Conductonaut? Should I not even bother at all with this? I already have the nt-h1 so I could do it today which would be nice.

I highly suggest you don't use a conductive paste. My reasoning being, if you spill it anywhere, you very well may toast your entire card. I personally don't have the stomach to use conductive paste on a $700+ card.

I recently ripped apart my 1080 Ti and turned it into a water-cooled card. Used Arctic MX-4 as my paste. Worked super well. Temps dropped over 25C.
 

Sami+

Member
So since I think my GTX 760 is finally starting to die, I'm looking to revamp my PC a bit especially since I'll be graduating this December and probably transition into full-time work and being a home body. &#128517;

I'm going from 4GB to 16GB of RAM also which is nice.
GPU: GTX 1080, upgraded from 760
CPU: i5 4690K (carried over from old build)
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-U97X-UD3H (carried over from old build)

Is that good or nah? I know the next generation of cards will be out next year but from what I've read if I want to sell a 1080 for a reasonable price, that's still possible. Plus I probably won't even need to anyway.
 
I highly suggest you don't use a conductive paste. My reasoning being, if you spill it anywhere, you very well may toast your entire card. I personally don't have the stomach to use conductive paste on a $700+ card.

I recently ripped apart my 1080 Ti and turned it into a water-cooled card. Used Arctic MX-4 as my paste. Worked super well. Temps dropped over 25C.

That is good to hear. I've heard of people using the conductive pastes but I've also read of the issue you've mentioned. I think I'll try using the nt-h1 today.
 

LUXURY

Member
Do you have an SSD from your old pc?
If not, do get one for the OS. Single most noticable improvement I've had was when I first changed to SSD lol

Co-signed. My friend told me about them but I just thought "oh I don't need that. My computer loads fast enough." I got one for Christmas last year and it's the best thing I've added to my PC. The difference really is noticeable. My computer is ready to use in about 30-40 seconds with logging in. Everything loads super fast.
 

kuYuri

Member
So since I think my GTX 760 is finally starting to die, I'm looking to revamp my PC a bit especially since I'll be graduating this December and probably transition into full-time work and being a home body. &#128517;

I'm going from 4GB to 16GB of RAM also which is nice.
GPU: GTX 1080, upgraded from 760
CPU: i5 4690K (carried over from old build)
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-U97X-UD3H (carried over from old build)

Is that good or nah? I know the next generation of cards will be out next year but from what I've read if I want to sell a 1080 for a reasonable price, that's still possible. Plus I probably won't even need to anyway.

Looks solid to me. The 1080 will carry you for awhile still.
 
Hey everyone,

A little cross posting from the 1080ti thread. Was wondering what the opinion was in here:



Should I go with a conductive paste like Conductonaut? Should I not even bother at all with this? I already have the nt-h1 so I could do it today which would be nice.

Like Soka said: don't bother with liquid metal and I wouldn't even bother re-doing the factory paste. There's no evidence that EVGA has done a shitty job on its thermal paste and I bet you would see negligible improvements in temps and likely no difference in clock. Not to mention taking the card apart is a pain in the ass.
 

Tonezorz

Member
Can't quite find info on what processors a 1080 might be bottle-necked on, or even a 1080ti. I'm now running an i7-4790k, and would like to buy a nice graphics card now, that I can carry over to a new build next year or so.
 

rtcn63

Member
Can't quite find info on what processors a 1080 might be bottle-necked on, or even a 1080ti. I'm now running an i7-4790k, and would like to buy a nice graphics card now, that I can carry over to a new build next year or so.

60fps? You're more than fine with an i7. OC it if you're unsure.
 

rtcn63

Member
I was bottlenecked on GTAV quite a lot with my old I7 3770K. Asus Strix 1080ti.

GTAV does have a strange bug that causes it to stutter once you get to ~120fps on some older i5s. Not sure if it applies to the i7s.

And a 4790k with a GTX 1080 does 100fps+ easy on GTA V (very high to ultra, 1080p).
 

Jezbollah

Member
GTAV does have a strange bug that causes it to stutter once you get to ~120fps on some older i5s. Not sure if it applies to the i7s.

And a 4790k with a GTX 1080 does 100fps+ easy on GTA V (very high to ultra, 1080p).

Yep its a weird thing - when I had my old i7 on ultra it was pretty much bottlenecked from 720p, 1080p and 1440p. Same frame rates each at those resolutions.
 
Like Soka said: don't bother with liquid metal and I wouldn't even bother re-doing the factory paste. There's no evidence that EVGA has done a shitty job on its thermal paste and I bet you would see negligible improvements in temps and likely no difference in clock. Not to mention taking the card apart is a pain in the ass.
You were right holy hell was taking the card apart a complete pain in the ass.
 
Does anyone have a Samsung lc34f791wquxen and have issues with the 45-100hz freesync range, in particular flickering?

I just bought one and I was reading that a few people were having issues with flickering with that freesync range.
 
3.9-4.0 is near the to you can get on Ryzen. You'll need a very good aftermarket air cooler or an AIO liquid cooler, IMO.

Ryzen 5 1600 actually can be overclocked to atleast 3.8 with the cooler that comes with it. The i7 7700k is the one that gets freaking hot and needs a very good cooler to get some significant overclock.
 
Ryzen 5 1600 actually can be overclocked to atleast 3.8 with the cooler that comes with it. The i7 7700k is the one that gets freaking hot and needs a very good cooler to get some significant overclock.

I hadn't seen people running 3.9 or 4.0 on the stock cooler before. Learn something new every day.
 
Dammit I'm feeling the itch to properly max my build... Thinking about a 1080...

Two questions:

- worth looking at more expensive 1080s? You start to get into the "why not just buy a 1080ti for this price."

- Using a fractal mini c, which has very little clearance between the PSU shroud and gfx card fans. People online go either way on reference blower vs open air dual/triple fan in compact cases. Which do you think makes more sense in a smaller case like the mini c?
 
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UfNMn7RWgLw

Neat!

What kind of cooler does one need to OC a Ryzen to that level? Is that a pretty standard OC or an aggressive one?

Ryzen 5 1600 actually can be overclocked to atleast 3.8 with the cooler that comes with it. The i7 7700k is the one that gets freaking hot and needs a very good cooler to get some significant overclock.

Yep he says in the video towards the end he can hit 4Ghz with the boxed cooler. It's a pretty great reference cooler from everything I've read. At full RPM the noise isn't terrible.
 

Rex_DX

Gold Member
Does anyone have any experience with boot issues relating to unseated RAM?

It seems like once a month my system spontaneously won't boot. Reseating the RAM fixes it every time. It's not difficult but it is annoying.

Anyone else had similar issues?
 

Dr.Acula

Banned
Looking at an ASRock AB350 Pro4.

The ASRock site says:

Each RAM whose frequency is 3000 will downgrade to 2933 with AB350 Pro4.

So I can pop in 3000 rated RAM and it will be fine?

Also it says:

AMD Ryzen series CPUs support DDR4 3200+(OC)/2933(OC)/2667/2400/2133 ECC & non-ECC, un-buffered memory

What does 2933(OC) mean, that I can reach this only with an overclock? Does OC'ing the RAM OC my CPU/GPU?

Finally:

Code:
Model		M.2 slot support PCIE/SATA	Is M.2 shared with SATA Port? Which SATA port shared with M.2
AB350 Pro4	M2_1(PCIE), M2_2(SATA)		M2_1(share with PCIE4), M2_2(share with SATA3_3)

So If I were to get an M.2 drive, I would be mindful of what conflicts?

edit:

So I've been going over stuff for the last few hours:


How's this for a start?
 

BasicMath

Member
5820k at a modest 4.0GHz and 1080TI here.

Is it time to move on from the 3 year old Haswell-E/X99 platform and jump into a 1700/ThreadRipper System? Or is it better to just stay there longer? I'm thinking it's like a year too soon but I doubt there will be much in terms of performance increases next year, and there will be a massive devaluation of an x99+5820k combo in the used market.

Thoughts, anyone?
 
5820k at a modest 4.0GHz and 1080TI here.

Is it time to move on from the 3 year old Haswell-E/X99 platform and jump into a 1700/ThreadRipper System? Or is it better to just stay there longer? I'm thinking it's like a year too soon but I doubt there will be much in terms of performance increases next year, and there will be a massive devaluation of an x99+5820k combo in the used market.

Thoughts, anyone?

No point in upgrading your CPU imo. What monitor do you have? That would be a good thing to upgrade if you haven't already. Maybe 1440p 144Hz IPS Gsync?
 
Does anyone have any experience with boot issues relating to unseated RAM?

It seems like once a month my system spontaneously won't boot. Reseating the RAM fixes it every time. It's not difficult but it is annoying.

Anyone else had similar issues?

Ok but the RAM is not "unseated" when you re-seat it, right? It's not like it's coming out of its slots?

Is your RAM on the QVL for your memory? Is your BIOS up-to-date? Do you get an error code?
 

Sami+

Member
What do you guys think is more worthwhile? 1440p IPS/G-Sync or a 1440p Ultrawide like those Korean ones? I doubt I'll be able to get a top of the line Ultrawide but I'm more interested in that for the time being.
 
5820k at a modest 4.0GHz and 1080TI here.

Is it time to move on from the 3 year old Haswell-E/X99 platform and jump into a 1700/ThreadRipper System? Or is it better to just stay there longer? I'm thinking it's like a year too soon but I doubt there will be much in terms of performance increases next year, and there will be a massive devaluation of an x99+5820k combo in the used market.

Thoughts, anyone?


I'd also say stick with the system for atleast a year longer. Afaik we'll see "Ryzen 2" next year. Not a big architectural jump, but rather some refinements + probably higher clock speeds. Plus whatever Intel does in the meantime.
 
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