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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

Bloodember

Member
I disconnected the HDD, SSD, and the stock fans so just the CPU is connected to the psu



It's connected to the tv with an HDMI cable running from the GPU to the tv but the tv's still blank when I power it on
It doesn't look like your main power connector is in all the way, the Extra 4 pin part. It should be flush with the connector on the motherboard.
 

LordAlu

Member
NZXT S340 Mid Tower Computer Case, Glossy Black
EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black


This is my case and power supply. RIght now I'm using a GTX 970.

EDIT:

I'm looking at this card now.

EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC2 GAMING, 11GB GDDR5X, iCX Technology - 9 Thermal Sensors & RGB LED G/P/M, Asynch Fan, Optimized Airflow Design Graphics Card 11G-P4-6593-KR

Is that a good card?
Your case is fine. Your power supply though - for a i7 and a 1080Ti, I'd probably change that.

That card is perfectly good :)
 

jrush64

Banned
Your case is fine. Your power supply though - for a i7 and a 1080Ti, I'd probably change that.

That card is perfectly good :)

Thanks for the help. I'm about to pull the trigger. I decided to stick with this graphics card.


Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 G1 Gaming 8G


I dont game much on PC in 4k anyway. Is my power supply good enough? If not what type of power supply do I need.
 

LordAlu

Member
Thanks for the help. I'm about to pull the trigger. I decided to stick with this graphics card.


Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 G1 Gaming 8G


I dont game much on PC in 4k anyway. Is my power supply good enough? If not what type of power supply do I need.
Your power supply should manage that card okay, it was with the EVGA card that it was really pushing it.

If you do decide to upgrade the PSU eventually, I currently recommend the SeaSonic Focus Gold for a high quality supply, although I'm sure people here will have their own recommendations too :)
 

zeemumu

Member
It doesn't look like your main power connector is in all the way, the Extra 4 pin part. It should be flush with the connector on the motherboard.

Checked everything. It's all in all the way. The fans are running on the CPU and GPU and the power LED on the front of the case is on (it's red but from what I can tell that's just the way the light is)

It also tries restarting itself after being left running for a bit (all the fans turn off and turn back on with that reset noise)

I also tries removing and then reinserting the entire motherboard after I removed a stray standoff that was under there that came on the case by default on the chance that it was causing a short somehow.

Happened to me before, but did you put the TV to the correct input?
Otherwise, have you tried removing just the GPU, having everything else connected normally and connecting the monitor to the motherboard video connector? That should show you something if the PC boots normally. When that is up and running you can try putting in the GPU again

Yeah I've tried that too. Still no response.
 

Bloodember

Member
Checked everything. It's all in all the way. The fans are running on the CPU and GPU and the power LED on the front of the case is on (it's red but from what I can tell that's just the way the light is)

It also tries restarting itself after being left running for a bit (all the fans turn off and turn back on with that reset noise)

I also tries removing and then reinserting the entire motherboard after I removed a stray standoff that was under there that came on the case by default on the chance that it was causing a short somehow.



Yeah I've tried that too. Still no response.
How long have you left it on? On first boot it does take awhile to start, normally a minute or two. How old is your HDMI cable? Are you sure it works?
 

Gavin Robertson

Neo Member
Do you guys think upgrading from a 3570k to a 3770 is worth it? Ebay has a 18% sitewide coupon tomorrow and thinking of picking up a used desktop and switching out the cpu or just buying a used 3770. Hard to judge from old reviews when I assume that current gen games take advantage of higher thread counts better?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dell-Opt...445981&hash=item2ef537c33b:g:EqEAAOSwJclZnmdH

or

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Intel-Co...086902?hash=item3f874fb2b6:g:CqMAAOSwJx1Zt92e

The gains are minimal, save your cash. I'm in the same position, feeling the itch because it's been a few years since my last build, but my 3570k is still going strong. Waiting a little to see what next month brings from Intel, but a Ryzen 7 build looks like my most likely project, as it offers a substantial uptick from my current build.
 

zeemumu

Member
How long have you left it on? On first boot it does take awhile to start, normally a minute or two. How old is your HDMI cable? Are you sure it works?

Tried an older one first and then used my Switch's. I'll try leaving it on for a little longer before I shut it off.
 

CmdBash

Member
The gains are minimal, save your cash. I'm in the same position, feeling the itch because it's been a few years since my last build, but my 3570k is still going strong. Waiting a little to see what next month brings from Intel, but a Ryzen 7 build looks like my most likely project, as it offers a substantial uptick from my current build.

Fair enough, was just feeling the itch after I saw watch dogs 2 murdering my cpu. Guess I'll be patient and just push the OC a bit higher (switched up from 4.4 to 4.7ghz today).
 

zeemumu

Member
Alright so I took the motherboard out of the case, took the CPU out, placed it back in, put the cool fan back onto it, and tried again with the motherboard out of the case to ensure it wasn't a short. Is it possible that the motherboard is just defective?
 
Hmmm, I guess it would be a waste to upgrade to a Ryzen CPU if I have the 4790K then. Thanks.

For gaming, then yeah, definitely not worth it. What's the rest of your system like? If you want to spend some cash there might be some good options depending on what you currently have.
 

coastel

Member
I have brought my build but not the ram. I was wondering if I intend to overclock my cpu do I need faster ram. It shows the cpu supports 2667mhz. Am I right to think if I get ddr 3000 ram then I would still be able to overclock the ram with the CPU to higher than 2667mhz.
Cpu is ryzen 5 1600.
 

jayvo

Member
For gaming, then yeah, definitely not worth it. What's the rest of your system like? If you want to spend some cash there might be some good options depending on what you currently have.

This is my current system. I suppose I had the upgrade itch, particularly for the CPU because I just bought the 1080 not long ago. But with a new CPU comes a new motherboard and RAM, so....

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($336.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Corsair)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston - Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($195.22 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Storage: PNY - Optima 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($114.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($72.22 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB ROG STRIX Video Card ($554.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair - Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($124.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($128.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1748.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-20 15:13 EDT-0400
 

Erebus

Member
  • AMD Ryzen 5 1600
  • Asus Prime B350 Plus
  • Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4-3000MHz
  • Gigabyte GeForce GTX1060 6GB
  • Samsung 850 Evo 250GB
  • Corsair VS Series VS550 80Plus

I'm building this for a friend, he needs a fast mid-range PC for content consumption mostly, some gaming and the occasional photo editing.

I'm open to suggestions/alterations.
 

Bloodember

Member
  • AMD Ryzen 5 1600
  • Asus Prime B350 Plus
  • Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4-3000MHz
  • Gigabyte GeForce GTX1060 6GB
  • Samsung 850 Evo 250GB
  • Corsair VS Series VS550 80Plus

I'm building this for a friend, he needs a fast mid-range PC for content consumption mostly, some gaming and the occasional photo editing.

I'm open to suggestions/alterations.
If he can spare it I'd bump the CPU up to a Ryzen 7 since he's doing mostly content creation.
 

haveheart

Banned

Erebus

Member
If he can spare it I'd bump the CPU up to a Ryzen 7 since he's doing mostly content creation.
Noted but I don't think he uses anything too demanding that requires 8 cores.

Anyway, have the RAM incompatibilities been ironed out with the Ryzen platform? I don't want to run into any negative surprises.
 
Noted but I don't think he uses anything too demanding that requires 8 cores.

Anyway, have the RAM incompatibilities been ironed out with the Ryzen platform? I don't want to run into any negative surprises.

After each bios update, it gets better.however, you should check always online if the ram is working fine with your specific Mobo
 
Thanks! That would be great!

Also thanks for the advices.

Alright, sorry for the delay. This is what I put together, but this is also my first attempt at a very quiet build, so I'm sure there is room for improvement.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($74.90 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: MSI - B350 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX AM4 Motherboard ($94.00 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($140.78 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 1.1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($270.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Hybrid Gaming Video Card ($589.98 @ Newegg)
Case: be quiet! - Dark Base Pro 900 w/Window (Black) ATX Full Tower Case ($219.90 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Power Supply: PC Power & Cooling - Silencer Mk III 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($147.94 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($128.89 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: be quiet! - SilentWings 3 pwm 59.5 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.79 @ SuperBiiz)
Case Fan: be quiet! - SilentWings 3 pwm 59.5 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.79 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1996.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-20 21:01 EDT-0400

If you want pure gaming, the Intel 7700k outperforms the Ryzen 7 1700 slightly. However, the 7700k runs notoriously hot, and in a build aiming for silence, I don't like super hot components. The 1700 will also go a lot farther if more cores/threads are used in games in the coming months/years, and in the mean time, it'll be a great asset if you do any other work (video editing, rendering, streaming, etc). If, however, you want pure-gaming, you should wait for the 8600k/8700k from Intel and grab one of those with a Z370 board. Rumor is those CPUs will release in October, but honestly, we just don't know yet.

The CPU cooler is one of the best and quietest air coolers. Highly recommended.

The motherboard could be swapped out for something else if you want. You could go for something ridiculously large, such as this E-ATX motherboard, as it would give you a more spread out motherboard which would likely run a bit cooler overall as it would improve some heat dissipation, but I don't think it's necessary.

RAM is stupidly expensive right now. For this price range, aim for 3000 MHz and 2x8 GB or better.

Storage = SSD. Old-school HDDs spin up and therefore make a bit of noise. SSDs = silent. You could very easily add in a second SSD or go for an M.2 form-factor SSD which would result in fewer cables running through your case, which is nice, but what I picked for you is a standard 2.5" SSD.

Your GPU could be whatever you need for your gaming purposes. Without knowing what games you want to play, I figured a 1080 would cover most things, and also seems appropriate given your budget. You could easily warrant upgrading to a 1080 Ti. Regardless of the card, I really think getting a hybrid GPU like this will be the best thing for you noise-wise. You can also undervolt the card a bit (I did this with my 1080 Ti) which resulted in a slight (~2-3%) performance increase and lower voltage, which means less heat, which means my GPU cooler (also a hybrid) runs a bit slower/quieter.

This power supply is overkill in terms of wattage, but the 750w version of the Silencer Mk III series has a 140 mm fan instead of a 120 mm fan that you find in the <750w versions of the Mk III series. Larger fan = lower RPM = runs quieter. Also, the fan doesn't operate at all when you're using less than 350w from the PSU, so for basic web-browsing/at idle, the fan will be silent.

I added in Windows 10 Pro, but you could go with Home instead and save $30.

Added in 2 more fans. This case already has 3 of these fans, but adding two more will hopefully mean you can run all of them at a lower RPM to achieve the same cooling = less overall noise.

Anyway, input from others would be good on this, I think, but let me know your thoughts or if you have any questions and I'll see what I can do to help! As a side note, this is ~$2,000, so you still have $1,000 more to spend if you so desire. That money could be easily spent on a 1080 Ti, and if you don't want to overclock your 1700, you could get a 1700x or 1800x to get more performance without the need to overclock manually.
 
Quick question, probably OT, is it better to buy an external HDD or should I buy an internal HDD then buy an enclosure or a dock? Also, enclosure and dock, what's the difference? Thanks!
 

Enthus

Member
Anyone have a recommendation for a low-profile mid tower case? Preferably with no windows, as few LEDs as possible, and a clean design.
 

kennah

Member
It's in Canadian dollars everyone. So closer to 1100 American.

I agree though you can do better yourself. Where in Canada are you?
 
You can actually get it cheaper? I mean, the video card itself will be pretty expensive when the price is converted to Canadian dollars.

It's in Canadian dollars everyone. So closer to 1100 American.

I agree though you can do better yourself. Where in Canada are you?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($221.49 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($59.90 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: MSI - Z270-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($91.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: SanDisk - SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.00 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.69 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card ($274.79 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design - Focus G (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($33.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1091.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-21 09:45 EDT-0400

In USD, but I think it translates to costing a little less than your Canadian-priced pre-built.

This build has a significantly better CPU, a better motherboard, a better CPU cooler, twice as much RAM that is also considerably faster, the same-size HDD, adds an SSD, a better video card, a good case/PSU, and includes Windows. Importantly, that pre-built only has a 1 year warranty. If you build it yourself, each part will be a minimum of 1 year, but many, such as the GPU, will be 3-5 years.

If you wanted a smaller build that's easier to transport, you can very easily get a slimmer CPU cooler (which will cost less), a smaller case (which will probably cost less), an mATX motherboard (which will cost less), and leave the rest the same.

Honestly, you'd save even more money and have a better upgrade path if you went with a Ryzen 1600 build instead, but I wanted to stick with Intel because the pre-built also was Intel.
 

Noll

Neo Member
Alright, sorry for the delay. This is what I put together, but this is also my first attempt at a very quiet build, so I'm sure there is room for improvement.



If you want pure gaming, the Intel 7700k outperforms the Ryzen 7 1700 slightly. However, the 7700k runs notoriously hot, and in a build aiming for silence, I don't like super hot components. The 1700 will also go a lot farther if more cores/threads are used in games in the coming months/years, and in the mean time, it'll be a great asset if you do any other work (video editing, rendering, streaming, etc). If, however, you want pure-gaming, you should wait for the 8600k/8700k from Intel and grab one of those with a Z370 board. Rumor is those CPUs will release in October, but honestly, we just don't know yet.

The CPU cooler is one of the best and quietest air coolers. Highly recommended.

The motherboard could be swapped out for something else if you want. You could go for something ridiculously large, such as this E-ATX motherboard, as it would give you a more spread out motherboard which would likely run a bit cooler overall as it would improve some heat dissipation, but I don't think it's necessary.

RAM is stupidly expensive right now. For this price range, aim for 3000 MHz and 2x8 GB or better.

Storage = SSD. Old-school HDDs spin up and therefore make a bit of noise. SSDs = silent. You could very easily add in a second SSD or go for an M.2 form-factor SSD which would result in fewer cables running through your case, which is nice, but what I picked for you is a standard 2.5" SSD.

Your GPU could be whatever you need for your gaming purposes. Without knowing what games you want to play, I figured a 1080 would cover most things, and also seems appropriate given your budget. You could easily warrant upgrading to a 1080 Ti. Regardless of the card, I really think getting a hybrid GPU like this will be the best thing for you noise-wise. You can also undervolt the card a bit (I did this with my 1080 Ti) which resulted in a slight (~2-3%) performance increase and lower voltage, which means less heat, which means my GPU cooler (also a hybrid) runs a bit slower/quieter.

This power supply is overkill in terms of wattage, but the 750w version of the Silencer Mk III series has a 140 mm fan instead of a 120 mm fan that you find in the <750w versions of the Mk III series. Larger fan = lower RPM = runs quieter. Also, the fan doesn't operate at all when you're using less than 350w from the PSU, so for basic web-browsing/at idle, the fan will be silent.

I added in Windows 10 Pro, but you could go with Home instead and save $30.

Added in 2 more fans. This case already has 3 of these fans, but adding two more will hopefully mean you can run all of them at a lower RPM to achieve the same cooling = less overall noise.

Anyway, input from others would be good on this, I think, but let me know your thoughts or if you have any questions and I'll see what I can do to help! As a side note, this is ~$2,000, so you still have $1,000 more to spend if you so desire. That money could be easily spent on a 1080 Ti, and if you don't want to overclock your 1700, you could get a 1700x or 1800x to get more performance without the need to overclock manually.

Thanks for the in-depth review and for the build you posted.

I'm very close to buy exactly what you suggested.

The only part of the build I'm a bit uncertain of is the AMD CPU.
Long long time ago I had some issues with AMD CPUs overheating, and generally I heard they don't have a good reputation compared to Intel alternatives.

How much more noisy do you think the Intel 770k can be?


Also, I think a small section for "Silent builds" would really improve this awesome topic!
 
Thanks for the in-depth review and for the build you posted.

I'm very close to buy exactly what you suggested.

The only part of the build I'm a bit uncertain of is the AMD CPU.
Long long time ago I had some issues with AMD CPUs overheating, and generally I heard they don't have a good reputation compared to Intel alternatives.

How much more noisy do you think the Intel 770k can be?


Also, I think a small section for "Silent builds" would really improve this awesome topic!

AMD's Ryzen line is nothing like their older hotter/under-performing CPU line-ups. There have been no overheating reports, at all, that I've seen about the Ryzen line. In fact, the Ryzen CPUs that come with stock coolers (1200, 1300, 1500, 1600, and 1700) are honestly cool enough that you can overclock them even with the stock coolers. I really wouldn't worry about heat issues with any Ryzen CPU.

However, I totally understand if you have an Intel preference, and I can whip together a motherboard/CPU combo in that direction for you easily if you'd prefer. The only thing I'd really say in that regard is that, if you aren't in a hurry, wait 1-2 months. The newest line of Intel CPUs ("Coffee Lake" aka the 8700k/8600k/etc) will be out. They have 2 more cores and 4 more threads than their 7700k/6700k equivalents, so it's a really great long-term upgrade to wait for those if you can. That's actually why I recommended the Ryzen CPU; I can't in good-faith recommend anyone buy a 7600k or 7700k right now because the next generation is so close to coming out, so the only option right now in my eyes is the Ryzen line.
 

Extollere

Sucks at poetry
Hey what's up... been in the market for a new PC for a while, but I've been holding out for a value. Someone I know is selling the following build:

Intel Core i5-6500 3.2ghz
MSI H110i Pro-AC mini-itx MOBO
16gb Mushkin Essentials single stick RAM
Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070 FE by PNY
Crucial mx300 525gb
Sapphire Titanium 80+T 650w PSU
Phantek Enthoo mini-itx white case w/ aftermarket RGB
200mm front silent fan with 120mm rear, both Phantek

for $600. It also has a mimi motherboard and case. Dunno what the pros and cons of those are. Anyways, is this a good deal? Could I swap out certain parts to make it better? I don't need anything super top of the line, as my current rig is several years old now. But I can also hold out if I can build a better rig for less later on.
 
Hey what's up... been in the market for a new PC for a while, but I've been holding out for a value. Someone I know is selling the following build:

Intel Core i5-6500 3.2ghz
MSI H110i Pro-AC mini-itx MOBO
16gb Mushkin Essentials single stick RAM
Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070 FE by PNY
Sapphire Titanium 80+T 650w PSU
Phantek Enthoo mini-itx white case w/ aftermarket RGB
200mm front silent fan with 120mm rear, both Phantek

for $600. Not sure what the HDD is, but I'm assuming it's something standard. It also has a mimi motherboard and case. Dunno what the pros and cons of those are. Anyways, is this a good deal? Could I swap out certain parts to make it better? I don't need anything super top of the line, as my current rig is several years old now. But I can also hold out if I can build a better rig for less later on.

I'd be hard-pressed to say no to that for $600, but also you should know that that mobo / processor combo cannot be overclocked.

But still, for $600 that seems like a pretty good deal. And the i5 will likely be fine for gaming for a while, and when it's time to upgrade you could easily take basically everything from that build and put it with a new mobo and CPU.

And maybe swap out the RAM for a dual-channel solution.
 
Hey what's up... been in the market for a new PC for a while, but I've been holding out for a value. Someone I know is selling the following build:

Intel Core i5-6500 3.2ghz
MSI H110i Pro-AC mini-itx MOBO
16gb Mushkin Essentials single stick RAM
Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070 FE by PNY
Sapphire Titanium 80+T 650w PSU
Phantek Enthoo mini-itx white case w/ aftermarket RGB
200mm front silent fan with 120mm rear, both Phantek

for $600. Not sure what the HDD is, but I'm assuming it's something standard. It also has a mimi motherboard and case. Dunno what the pros and cons of those are. Anyways, is this a good deal? Could I swap out certain parts to make it better? I don't need anything super top of the line, as my current rig is several years old now. But I can also hold out if I can build a better rig for less later on.

Just the PSU, Case, and GPU alone are a little over $600. If you decided to change the motherboard, ram, and CPU for something brand new you wouldn't be losing money.
 

zeemumu

Member
What am I supposed to see on the screen if I plug it directly into the motherboard with no ram and power it on to make sure the CPU and motherboard are working?
 

Dr.Acula

Banned
What am I supposed to see on the screen if I plug it directly into the motherboard with no ram and power it on to make sure the CPU and motherboard are working?

PC won't boot w/o RAM afaik. So you'd probably hear some beeps and have no video signal at all.
 

Dr.Acula

Banned
Alright. Didn't hear beeps at all last time and the hd audio cable was plugged in

There should be a speaker on your mobo itself, that's where beep codes come from. If it just powers up and fans spin without RAM and you get no beeps that'd be weird, but maybe these new mobos are different *shrug*.
 

Bloodember

Member
What am I supposed to see on the screen if I plug it directly into the motherboard with no ram and power it on to make sure the CPU and motherboard are working?

You won't see anything, you have a Ryzen CPU they don't have integrated GPU's on them. Also you won't hear any beeps if you don't have a beeper on your motherboard, or a beeper plugged into the speaker connection on the motherboard.
 

Dr.Acula

Banned
You won't see anything, you have a Ryzen CPU they don't have integrated GPU's on them. Also you won't hear any beeps if you don't have a beeper on your motherboard, or a beeper plugged into the speaker connection on the motherboard.

No beeper? Pfft, cheap ass manufacturers nowadays :p
 

Bloodember

Member
No beeper? Pfft, cheap ass manufacturers nowadays :p

Almost no one gives you a beeper nowadays. I had to get a few off of ebay last year for the two builds I did. Hell the last case that came with a beeper I bought was the Corsair 800D. I've never gotten one with a motherboard,ever and I've been building pc's since the 90's.
 

zeemumu

Member
You won't see anything, you have a Ryzen CPU they don't have integrated GPU's on them. Also you won't hear any beeps if you don't have a beeper on your motherboard, or a beeper plugged into the speaker connection on the motherboard.

Do ab350m pro4's have keepers? Just occurred to me that I didn't check
 

Bloodember

Member
Do ab350m pro4's have keepers? Just occurred to me that I didn't check


No it doesn't. No motherboard comes with a beeper that I know of. Some of the more expensive boards may have a beeper build on it but I haven't seen one with a built in beeper for many years.
 

Dr.Acula

Banned
No it doesn't. No motherboard comes with a beeper that I know of. Some of the more expensive boards may have a beeper build on it but I haven't seen one with a built in beeper for many years.

Whoops, sorry, you're right. I'm thinking of my old old case that I carried over, it had a beeper in it for sure.
 
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