• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

dcx4610

Member
Not sure about cannon lake but what are the specs of your current system (including gpu)? Is it mainly for gaming?

Mainly gaming. I have a GTX 1080 and an i7 4790k. Not sure if Kaby Lake would be a noticeable upgrade but it seems CPU is my bottleneck in benchmarks.
 

NEO0MJ

Member
With Vega now looking like its not coming out anytime soon I'm looking at upgrading my videocard now plus looking at other areas of improvement. I got a fury or $250 last year but I'm starting to feel the strain of only having 4 gbs of vram. I'm powering 2 1080 screens but I want the highest framerates and something more VR proof. Would a 1080 be more appropriate than a 1080 ti or is the brute strength of the ti worth the extra cash? Money isn't really an issue in regards to the videocard.

If money is not an issue I don't see why you wouldn't go for the 1080 ti. It's bound to give you better performance and last longer.

Hopefully better than it's proven in the other direction thus far.

All this purchasing talk has me considering whether or not to pick up a new PC case. Current one is functional, but old (front IO panel has no USB 3 ports for example for example), and just kinda drab. Kinda want one with some colour to it (though not necessarily RGB), but a lot of the good ones I can find are kinda pricey. Any recommendations?

What's your budget and size preference?
 

ISee

Member
With Vega now looking like its not coming out anytime soon I'm looking at upgrading my videocard now plus looking at other areas of improvement. I got a fury or $250 last year but I'm starting to feel the strain of only having 4 gbs of vram. I'm powering 2 1080 screens but I want the highest framerates and something more VR proof. Would a 1080 be more appropriate than a 1080 ti or is the brute strength of the ti worth the extra cash? Money isn't really an issue in regards to the videocard.



I'm also running a 6600k @ 4.3 1.275 vcore but I'm thinking of moving up to a 6700k as more games are using more than 4 threads now. Anyone agree/disagree? Is it also time to move up from 16 gbs of ram to 32?

16 GB of ram is fine for gaming. Going for more won't improve your performance and I wouldn't recommend it from a price/performance perspective because memory prices are high, currently.
A GTX 1080 is the second strongest GPU on the market and should be sufficient for 1080p @ 100+fps. A 1080Ti is still about 30% faster. If you want even higher framerates and/or higher setting the 1080Ti is the way to go.
You can apply the same logic to your CPU. A 6600k is enough for gaming and upgrading to a 6700k doesn't make a lot of sense, but reaching high framerates can be more difficult than reaching high resolutions. You need a beefy CPU and GPU for that. If you want more stable and higher framerates a cup upgrade is recommendable.
That said, high framerates at 1080p are doable on a 6600k/GTX 1080 combo. In the end your willingness to spend money and your expectations are the limit here.


edit:
The Asus strix are good cards. They are quiet, have good cooling and aren't power limited like the G1 gaming cards (only important if you plan to oc). I'm running a 1080 Strix (non ti) and I'm satisfied. Other good options are the msi gaming X or the Gigabyte Aorus.
 
What's your budget and size preference?

Preference to spend under £40, could stretch to £50 if need be. ATX form factor, though not exactly intending to install a custom water loop or the like.

Oh, and I suppose maintaining the capacity for an optical drive could be useful, if not strictly necessary.
 
Bloody hell, this thread moves faster than I thought! I think my post got stuck at the bottom of the page a few pages back so I'm going to be a pain and repost :) Any help would be brilliant!

Hi, all - hoping some of the regulars here can help point me in the right direction.

My current PC setup is coming up for 7 1/2 years old and it's starting to get pretty creaky. I'm pretty sure I don't have an easy upgrade path and my best bet is going to be a clean build, but perhaps someone can have a look over my current rig and see what might be doable.

Currently I'm running:

Gigabyte P55-UD4 mobo
i7(860) 2.8GHz processor
ATI 5850 (1GB) GFX card
G.Skill Ripjaw (4GB - 2x2GB/1600MHz) RAM
2 x 1TB Samsung HDDs
Corsair HX 620W PSU
2 x Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans


...all in an Antec P183 case, with a BenQ E2220HD 22" monitor, plus DVD-RW/DVD drives and misc. peripherals (keyboard, mouse, tablet etc.) Running Win7.

I do a bit of gaming, and ideally I'd like to be relatively future-proofed for that (VR not an issue, but I'm looking to run current games maxed-out). Otherwise, I do some freelance graphic design and photography, and the lack of RAM and relatively small HDDs (and the lack of a SSD) is hitting me hard for software like Lightroom and Photoshop.

Ideal build - if I have to start from scratch - would be something with a lot more RAM (I'm thinking 16GB), a decent-sized SSD for OS and using as a massive scratchdisk for Photoshop/Lightroom to allow me to work with large image files as quickly and smoothly as possible, a couple of large HDDs for longer-term storage of photos, design projects and other archive stuff (my music library, books, fonts etc.) and a reasonably grunty GFX card. Monitor doesn't need to be huge - 22-24" is probably fine - but it does need to have good colour repro etc. for working with photos and doing design work. A decent DVD-RW and Blu-ray drive would be great too, but they can be added later if it means being able to put some cash towards other components now. I've been pretty happy with the Antec case, so I'm going to be looking for another from their line - I have enough space to go a bit taller here where the PC is going to end up living as well. Not sure about PSU - I'd imagine I'll be needing something bigger than the 620W, and I'll likely go with Corsair again as the current PSU has been flawless for 24/7 use over 7 1/2 years.

Is it worth trying to cannibalise components from the current rig, or should I just clear it and give it to my daughters as a shared PC and start fresh? Budget for a new build is probably £1,000-£1,500 max, but if I can scrimp on some components and expand later next year without hassle I'd be up for that (e.g. go for 8GB RAM now and expand that later)

Any advice would be most welcome!
 
Bloody hell, this thread moves faster than I thought! I think my post got stuck at the bottom of the page a few pages back so I'm going to be a pain and repost :) Any help would be brilliant!

Did a quick draft for you that you can use as a basis and tweak:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (£194.16 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£75.38 @ BT Shop)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£123.98 @ Aria PC)
Storage: Sandisk - X400 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£116.96 @ BT Shop)
Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 580 8GB ARMOR OC Video Card (£229.99 @ CCL Computers)
Case: Antec - NSK4100 ATX Mid Tower Case (£36.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£69.99 @ Ebuyer)
Optical Drive: LG - UH12NS40 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer (£47.50 @ Novatech)
Total: £894.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-22 21:04 BST+0100

Accounting for the fact you could possibly be reusing the HDDs, though if you wanna toss in a 2 or 3 TB drive you'll still be under £1000. So from there you could push for a high end monitor, or push the GPU if you wanted, or get a beefier CPU, whatever you like.
 

NEO0MJ

Member
Preference to spend under £40, could stretch to £50 if need be. ATX form factor, though not exactly intending to install a custom water loop or the like.

Oh, and I suppose maintaining the capacity for an optical drive could be useful, if not strictly necessary.

By ATX you mean mid tower, right? Because full towers are more expensive than I thought.
Not sure if I completely got your "Not drab" comment, but the Game Max Falcon RGB seems to be flashy and based on the review good value for its price. Also comes in black.
 
By ATX you mean mid tower, right? Because full towers are more expensive than I thought.
Not sure if I completely got your "Not drab" comment, but the Game Max Falcon RGB seems to be flashy and based on the review good value for its price. Also comes in black.

Mid tower most likely, yeah. And by 'drab', I mean the case I currently have is a very dull, plainly black box that just doesn't appeal to me. Will consider these though - more fans at the front might be useful for cooling purposes at least.
 
What's a good single player, non-FPS game that will make use of my new 1080 Ti on a 1080p screen?

I'm thinking Quantum Break, maybe?

With a 1080 Ti, you may want to look into downsampling - basically rendering your games at above 1080p resolution internally, and so having a higher quality image even within a nominally lower resolution (because your game bothers with actually having the additional information).
 
I've been fiddling with this for a while and thought I'd throw it out there.

I bought an MSI Aegis (i7-6700, GTX 1070) last year. I love it. I'm playing pretty much everything I want to play on High or Ultra settings. Those games include Overwatch and Shadow of Mordor at the moment, but will likely stretch to include Witcher 2/3, the new Tomb Raider games and some RPGs like PoE, Skyrim, etc. over the coming years.

However, my monitor is a BenQ 24" 1080p monitor, and I feel like I'm just about ready to upgrade.

I sit at a desk, and when I play I'm usually 2-3 feet from the monitor.

The contenders, all sporting 1440p, G-SYNC:
-- Dell S2716DG - 27" monitor. Lowest cost on this list. It's a TN display (which I hear should be avoided in favor of IPS)

-- Acer Predator XB271HU - which brings us to the 27" Acer, which is an IPS display.

-- HP Omen - 35" curved monitor from HP, but I'm a little worried about the 100mhz refresh rate

-- Asus ROG PG348Q - 34" but also curved and also with a 100mhz refresh rate


So, PC GAF ... is curved worth it? Is a 34/35" monitor too big if I'm only 2-3 feet from it? Is IPS significantly better than TN? I have liked my Asus devices in the past, so I'm sort of partial to it, but the 27" monitors have the better refresh rate.

While I wouldn't mind keeping it to the lowest cost here (the Dell), I also don't want to get it and feel like it's not a significant enough upgrade from what I have. So I'm ok going deeper into my wallet if it's really going to blow me away.

The only one of these monitors I have seen in person is the Dell, at a Best Buy, and while it looks great in person, it wasn't running a game and it's really hard to tell scale at Best Buy, where the displays are in these wide open spaces.
 
16 GB of ram is fine for gaming. Going for more won't improve your performance and I wouldn't recommend it from a price/performance perspective because memory prices are high, currently.

I've noticed that the same 16 GB pair I bought two years ago went up $35 dollars since then. I'll hold off on this now until it becomes more of a need rather than a desire.

A GTX 1080 is the second strongest GPU on the market and should be sufficient for 1080p @ 100+fps. A 1080Ti is still about 30% faster. If you want even higher framerates and/or higher setting the 1080Ti is the way to go.

Even though a 1080 ti is somewhat overkill I think I'll stick with it, this is a part that I've updated three times in the last two years (390 -> fury -> 1080 ti) and I would rather just get something that'll last me for awhile.

You can apply the same logic to your CPU. A 6600k is enough for gaming and upgrading to a 6700k doesn't make a lot of sense, but reaching high framerates can be more difficult than reaching high resolutions. You need a beefy CPU and GPU for that. If you want more stable and higher framerates a cup upgrade is recommendable.
That said, high framerates at 1080p are doable on a 6600k/GTX 1080 combo. In the end your willingness to spend money and your expectations are the limit here.

Your right that going to a 6700k would basically spending money for the sake of spending money. I wonder if I can squeeze a little more OC'ing out of my current i5. I definitely didn't win the lotto with my CPU.

edit:
The Asus strix are good cards. They are quiet, have good cooling and aren't power limited like the G1 gaming cards (only important if you plan to oc). I'm running a 1080 Strix (non ti) and I'm satisfied. Other good options are the msi gaming X or the Gigabyte Aorus.

I actually ended up going with the EVGA 1080 TI SC2. Living here in Nor Cal can get really hot so any cooling help I can get is great. Plus it seems to be a decent OC'er. Thanks for the long, indepth reply. I think this card/machine will last me a decently long time now.
 
What's a good single player, non-FPS game that will make use of my new 1080 Ti on a 1080p60hz screen?

I'm thinking Quantum Break, maybe?

1080p @ 60hz? Yeah, you should look into Nvidia DSR. You can probably handle 3x easily in most games on a 1080TI. Maybe even 4K in some games (which would be 4K).

Nvidia Control Panel -> Manage 3D Settings -> DSR factors

Also, I'd change DSR smoothness to something like 23%

Then, you can select higher resolutions in your games.

Other than that.... yeah, Quantum Break with scaling turned off.
 
Mainly gaming. I have a GTX 1080 and an i7 4790k. Not sure if Kaby Lake would be a noticeable upgrade but it seems CPU is my bottleneck in benchmarks.

The 4790k is still extremely potent. What frequency do you have it at?

What resolution and refresh rate is your monitor? Ignore benchmarks--are you actually lacking performance in some games, and if so, which ones?

Before knowing the above, if I were you I wouldn't bother with Kaby. If you really wanna upgrade (which I think you probably don't need to do) I would wait for the next hyperthreaded Intel 6-core.
 

ISee

Member
Bloody hell, this thread moves faster than I thought! I think my post got stuck at the bottom of the page a few pages back so I'm going to be a pain and repost :) Any help would be brilliant!

I’m a bit unsure what you need, tbh.

As you are into photo editing I think going for 32GB of Ram and a r7 is reasonable. I’d also go for a more expansive x370 motherboard because they offer 8 x SATA 6Gb/s ports and more USB ports (always nice for card readers, cameras etc). This will mainly allow you to connect up to 8 drives without the need to use expansion cards. If you need more space, you can just get another drive this way, or you could start using drives in raid mode to protect your data. The r7 is very good for heavy, multithreaded workloads (like phot/video editing) and it may outrun an i7 7700k in gaming-scenarios in the future because of the sheer amount of threads it is able to handle, but from a gaming only perspective the 7700k or even r5 1600 is currently the better choice. The 7700k because of performance and the 1600 because of price/performance (in comparison to the r7 1700).
16GB of Ram is technically enough, but 32GB is always better for photo editing. A good SSD and HDD combo could also be important for you, especially as you need to store pictures reliably. Going for WD Blacks and Pro SSDs could be reasonable. I’d also reuse you current HDDs and your power supply. . As a graphic card, a 1060 is enough. If you want to get something better a 1070 will be more futureproof at 1080p. Blu-Ray drives are cheap today, even with write functionalities. No idea about the monitor though...

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/C9h8qk
 
Did a quick draft for you that you can use as a basis and tweak:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (£194.16 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£75.38 @ BT Shop)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£123.98 @ Aria PC)
Storage: Sandisk - X400 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£116.96 @ BT Shop)
Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 580 8GB ARMOR OC Video Card (£229.99 @ CCL Computers)
Case: Antec - NSK4100 ATX Mid Tower Case (£36.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£69.99 @ Ebuyer)
Optical Drive: LG - UH12NS40 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer (£47.50 @ Novatech)
Total: £894.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-22 21:04 BST+0100

Accounting for the fact you could possibly be reusing the HDDs, though if you wanna toss in a 2 or 3 TB drive you'll still be under £1000. So from there you could push for a high end monitor, or push the GPU if you wanted, or get a beefier CPU, whatever you like.

I’m a bit unsure what you need, tbh.

As you are into photo editing I think going for 32GB of Ram and a r7 is reasonable. I’d also go for a more expansive x370 motherboard because they offer 8 x SATA 6Gb/s ports and more USB ports (always nice for card readers, cameras etc). This will mainly allow you to connect up to 8 drives without the need to use expansion cards. If you need more space, you can just get another drive this way, or you could start using drives in raid mode to protect your data. The r7 is very good for heavy, multithreaded workloads (like phot/video editing) and it may outrun an i7 7700k in gaming-scenarios in the future because of the sheer amount of threads it is able to handle, but from a gaming only perspective the 7700k or even r5 1600 is currently the better choice. The 7700k because of performance and the 1600 because of price/performance (in comparison to the r7 1700).
16GB of Ram is technically enough, but 32GB is always better for photo editing. A good SSD and HDD combo could also be important for you, especially as you need to store pictures reliably. Going for WD Blacks and Pro SSDs could be reasonable. I’d also reuse you current HDDs and your power supply. . As a graphic card, a 1060 is enough. If you want to get something better a 1070 will be more futureproof at 1080p. Blu-Ray drives are cheap today, even with write functionalities. No idea about the monitor though...

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/C9h8qk

Fantastic - thank you both for the detailed suggestions! I'm going to grab a coffee and go over all of this and pop back in a bit. It looks as though the bottom end of my budget will possibly do a little bit more than I was expecting, so I can maybe afford to do a bit more future-proofing than I thought I'd be able to, or even pass on my current rig to the kids if I push closer to the top end.

Reliable storage is essential - ideally I'd have a large primary data disk with at least one equivalent drive to dupe everything to (and eventually at least one more internal/external drive) - so it's likely going to be an area worth putting a bit more into from my budget. If it comes down to it, saving on the extra 16GB of RAM in exchange for being able to shift that money toward storage might be worth it so I start with a good HDD setup, and I can expand the RAM down the line.

Coffee and research now - thanks again!
 
Hi Gaf,

I have an HP DX2400 micro tower with a Core 2 Quad 6700. I planned to upgrade the power supply to 500w and buy a 1050ti or something similar for my first PC gaming experience for this unit, but I recently was given a Dell Optiplex 990 SFF, which has i5 2400 and ddr3 ram support compared to the DX2400 ddr2(max at 8GB). I want to know if it's possible to transfer the 990 motherboard to the DX 2400 case or any case big case? The Optiplex 990 SFF only has a 240w properary Dell PSU and can only take low profile GPU, so I'm very limited here unless I can transfer the motherboard.
 

kmfdmpig

Member
Bloody hell, this thread moves faster than I thought! I think my post got stuck at the bottom of the page a few pages back so I'm going to be a pain and repost :) Any help would be brilliant!

That's crazy. I'm in the exact same boat. Same Motherboard, CPU and GPU as well.

Also looking to (finally) get a new PC.
 

Jharp

Member
...Dude, that's the latest i7. A pared down variant, sure, but with the GTX 1050 you'll be fine at medium and some high settings. See this video for reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36iBCAeGKYI

Finally got a chance to watch this and.... holy shit. I'm genuinely blown away by how well that laptop performs. Previously I was just mildly considering picking it up, but now I may actually grab it tonight. It's $150 off with the $50 rebate, should I pull the trigger, or is there likely to be a bigger better sale coming up at newegg? Memorial Day sale?
 
Hi Gaf,

I have an HP DX2400 micro tower with a Core 2 Quad 6700. I planned to upgrade the power supply to 500w and buy a 1050ti or something similar for my first PC gaming experience for this unit, but I recently was given a Dell Optiplex 990 SFF, which has i5 2400 and ddr3 ram support compared to the DX2400 ddr2(max at 8GB). I want to know if it's possible to transfer the 990 motherboard to the DX 2400 case or any case big case? The Optiplex 990 SFF only has a 240w properary Dell PSU and can only take low profile GPU, so I'm very limited here unless I can transfer the motherboard.

is this the same motherboard?

It looks like the the screw holes are placed on a square the regular way even if there are some extra ones.

however I think I'm spotting a proprietary connector that probably has to do with the front panel. So would have to take that out of the case with it.
nuhNabX.png


a 1050ti doesn't need a 500w power supply, but would actually work on the Dell if it is one (as you mentioned) of the low profile models
 
Finally got a chance to watch this and.... holy shit. I'm genuinely blown away by how well that laptop performs. Previously I was just mildly considering picking it up, but now I may actually grab it tonight. It's $150 off with the $50 rebate, should I pull the trigger, or is there likely to be a bigger better sale coming up at newegg? Memorial Day sale?

It is almost certainly the best you'll get at that price, so I'd say go for it.

As to how and why it performs relatively well, Nvidia have stopped making 'M' variants of its new GPUs for Laptops. So that's not a '1050M', that's a full 1050, which even in the shadow of its big brother, is a decent entry level card that overshadows anything the current consoles have to offer.
 
Any UKers able to help with this?

I am trying to help a friend over there pick out parts for a new PC but I am in the US.

Looking to get the best bang for their buck while meeting the following requirements:

1. £1000 max. (£800 preferred)
2. Would like monitor included as well.
3. OS needs to be included in cost.
4. 2+ year life before needing upgrades.
5. Needs optical drive.

I was playing around on PCPartPicker with their UK site and the prices seem higher than here. Not sure if there's a better place to find prices for parts.

Any direction would help, thanks.

I know it's not much to go off of. I've been playing around with prices and a preliminary build I could find was something like:

i3-7100 - £100
Samsung 850 250GB - £85
EVGA GTX 1050 Ti 4GB - £140
2x4GB DDR3000 - £65
Asus Prime 7270 - £107
Case/PSU/Cooler/Optical Drive - £123

£620 before OS.

That'd leave £180 for a monitor and OS.
 
Any UKers able to help with this?



I know it's not much to go off of. I've been playing around with prices and a preliminary build I could find was something like:

i3-7100 - £100
Samsung 850 250GB - £85
EVGA GTX 1050 Ti 4GB - £140
2x4GB DDR3000 - £65
Asus Prime 7270 - £107
Case/PSU/Cooler/Optical Drive - £123

£620 before OS.

That'd leave £180 for a monitor and OS.

Could drop the i3 down to the G4560 and not lose much. Since they wouldn't be overclocking just yet, they could get by with the stock cooler just fine, so anything additional you slotted in can be dropped. Provides room for a harddrive, and/or doubling the RAM.
 
Any UKers able to help with this?



I know it's not much to go off of. I've been playing around with prices and a preliminary build I could find was something like:

i3-7100 - £100
Samsung 850 250GB - £85
EVGA GTX 1050 Ti 4GB - £140
2x4GB DDR3000 - £65
Asus Prime 7270 - £107
Case/PSU/Cooler/Optical Drive - £123

£620 before OS.

That'd leave £180 for a monitor and OS.

Not from the UK, but mind if I ask why get a Z270 paired with a i3-7100? for the faster ram and future proofing?
 

StuffRuff

Member
Looking for a little reassurance, basically with the recent Amazon Warehouse deals I picked up a Nitro 480 8GB for £185 a couple of weeks ago but this week managed a 1060 6GB Strix for £150 so going to send the 480 back considering the £35 saving.

Am I making a mistake? I figure they are about on par nowadays without getting into a 480 vs 1060 debate so I may as well take the one thats cheaper!
 
Looking for a little reassurance, basically with the recent Amazon Warehouse deals I picked up a Nitro 480 8GB for £185 a couple of weeks ago but this week managed a 1060 6GB Strix for £150 so going to send the 480 back considering the £35 saving.

Am I making a mistake? I figure they are about on par nowadays without getting into a 480 vs 1060 debate so I may as well take the one thats cheaper!

It depends on what games you play, and what you're thinkimg for the future. In the immediacy, the GTX 1060 performs better in most games, particularly those using DX11 still. The belief by many is that as DX12 and Vulcan take off, the RX480/580 should benefit greatly for its performance, but until then... yeah, take the saving. Just remember to flush out your graphics drivers.
 
Could drop the i3 down to the G4560 and not lose much. Since they wouldn't be overclocking just yet, they could get by with the stock cooler just fine, so anything additional you slotted in can be dropped. Provides room for a harddrive, and/or doubling the RAM.

Thanks I'll look into it.They do have a current storage hard drive so I was leaving that out.

Not from the UK, but mind if I ask why get a Z270 paired with a i3-7100? for the faster ram and future proofing?

Yeah that was my thought process. I wanted to try and get them something they could upgrade easily in the next few years. And personally I loathe replacing the MoBo more than any part, so I try to keep that a little ahead. Also I'm not up-to-date on my hardware knowledge so I was making best guesses.

So if you have something you'd recommend I'm willing to look. It's not actually for me so I'm just trying to get them a recommendation.
 

StuffRuff

Member
It depends on what games you play, and what you're thinkimg for the future. In the immediacy, the GTX 1060 performs better in most games, particularly those using DX11 still. The belief by many is that as DX12 and Vulcan take off, the RX480/580 should benefit greatly for its performance, but until then... yeah, take the saving. Just remember to flush out your graphics drivers.

Thanks very much!
 
Thanks I'll look into it.They do have a current storage hard drive so I was leaving that out.



Yeah that was my thought process. I wanted to try and get them something they could upgrade easily in the next few years. And personally I loathe replacing the MoBo more than any part, so I try to keep that a little ahead. Also I'm not up-to-date on my hardware knowledge so I was making best guesses.

So if you have something you'd recommend I'm willing to look. It's not actually for me so I'm just trying to get them a recommendation.

I think that intel z270 should be safe, Cofee Lake is supposed to use LGA 1151 as well.
 

spons

Gold Member
So I'm purchasing a GPU tomorrow for an HTPC/Emulation machine combo. I've posted earlier in this thread and decided on the 1050 Ti. It has good driver support and emulators are more geared towards NVIDIA due to OpenGL extensions in some. Some PC gaming will also be done on it.

Basically, I need:
a. performance for 6th gen and older emulation
b. silent, (semi-)passive cooling because it's also an HTPC
c. it to be not be any more expensive than about 185 Dutch euros
d. something that makes sense with an i5-4590 and 8 GB of RAM

I've found the following cards that meet the requirements:

MSI GeForce GTX 1050 TI GAMING X 4G (no backplate, 1.29GHz)
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1050 Ti G1 Gaming 4G (backplate, VRM/VRAM heatsinks, 1.366GHz)
Asus Republic Of Gamers Strix GeForce GTX 1050 Ti OC 4GB (backplate, highest stock overclock, 1.379GHz)

I'm geared towards the Gigabyte, although I hear nothing but good things about MSI. Any advice on which to choose is welcome. Thanks.
 

Jharp

Member
It is almost certainly the best you'll get at that price, so I'd say go for it.

As to how and why it performs relatively well, Nvidia have stopped making 'M' variants of its new GPUs for Laptops. So that's not a '1050M', that's a full 1050, which even in the shadow of its big brother, is a decent entry level card that overshadows anything the current consoles have to offer.

I ended up not pulling the trigger, and now they have a 16gb, 1060 system for $850 on sale. The kicker is that it's open box, but man, I might take the risk. I've got three days to decide if I want to spend a good chunk of my next paycheck on it.

Any experience with open box systems from Newegg? Not components, but actual systems. My hope is that it's literally just an open box, and it's never been used by anyone outside a test facility, but I guess the risk you take with open box items is that it could have been run to death already by some teenager leaving Battlefield running on a real hot night.
 
I ended up not pulling the trigger, and now they have a 16gb, 1060 system for $850 on sale. The kicker is that it's open box, but man, I might take the risk. I've got three days to decide if I want to spend a good chunk of my next paycheck on it.

Any experience with open box systems from Newegg? Not components, but actual systems. My hope is that it's literally just an open box, and it's never been used by anyone outside a test facility, but I guess the risk you take with open box items is that it could have been run to death already by some teenager leaving Battlefield running on a real hot night.

...Good on waiting then.

Unfortunately I have no actual particular experience with Newegg beyond recommending given products to people, as I live in the UK. So you'd have to find someone else's opinion; if they're selling it though it must work in some fashion presumably? The 1060 only came out less than a year ago too, so given the time it would take for such to actually get into Laptops, I'd be honestly amazed if someone actually managed to near-kill their system in that span of time.
 
Figured I'd post my 7700k delidding results here. Not wanting to try it myself (although I hear it's quite easy), I sent my CPU to Silicon Lottery. The pricing was similar to buying a delid kit + liquid metal + adhesive, so I figured... why not?

7700k @ 4.9Ghz -- 1.344V
Kraken X52 AiO cooler

Before delid Prime95 stress test
After 30 minutes - 83° -- fans running at 100%

After delid Prime95 stress test
After 30 minutes - 66° -- fans running at 70% max

It's nice to know that I could keep it cooler with higher fan speeds. I could probably push the voltage up a bit more and see if I can squeeze another 100-200mhz out of it as well.
 
Figured I'd post my 7700k delidding results here. Not wanting to try it myself (although I hear it's quite easy), I sent my CPU to Silicon Lottery. The pricing was similar to buying a delid kit + liquid metal + adhesive, so I figured... why not?

7700k @ 4.9Ghz -- 1.344V
Kraken X52 AiO cooler

Before delid Prime95 stress test
After 30 minutes - 83° -- fans running at 100%

After delid Prime95 stress test
After 30 minutes - 66° -- fans running at 70% max

It's nice to know that I could keep it cooler with higher fan speeds. I could probably push the voltage up a bit more and see if I can squeeze another 100-200mhz out of it as well.

Damn, that's impressive. Stuff like this makes delidding really tempting, but I'll hold off on that. Wonder if there's an equivalent service to Silicon Lottery in the UK...
 
is this the same motherboard?

It looks like the the screw holes are placed on a square the regular way even if there are some extra ones.

however I think I'm spotting a proprietary connector that probably has to do with the front panel. So would have to take that out of the case with it.
nuhNabX.png


a 1050ti doesn't need a 500w power supply, but would actually work on the Dell if it is one (as you mentioned) of the low profile models

Yup that's the one. Everything on the board looks fine to transfer except for the front panel connector and the power switch. The power switch connector on the 990 SFF is smaller than the power switch connector on the DX2400 MT, so I'm not sure if it's a proprietary connector on the 990 SFF or if there's some kind of converter for power switch connections.
 
I am really stuck trying to determine if upgrading my RAM will make any difference when it comes to gaming performance. That's really the only thing I'm interested in on this PC, and I feel like I'm not getting the type of performance I should be given my hardware.

Here's what I have now:

Windows 10 64-bit (Creators Update)
ASRock Z77 Extreme4
Intel Core i5 3570K (stable OC at 4.3GHz)
250GB 850 EVO SSD
8GB DDR3-1600 Corsair RAM (XMP enabled)
Zotac AMP Extreme GTX 1070

Would bumping to 16GB and/or faster RAM (my board supports up to DDR3-2800) make any significant difference in gaming? Again, I really don't care that much about performance in other tasks because it's already more than fast enough for everyday stuff I do, but gaming isn't quite getting the oomph I expect.

In an ideal world I'd be upgrading my CPU, but that would require upgrading my motherboard, which in turn would also require upgrading my RAM to DDR4. I can't afford that right now. But would the $60 for a RAM kit be better spent just saving towards a whole new CPU + motherboard combo?

It might help some if you're maxing out RAM as is, but yes, ultimately saving for a new CPU/Mobo/RAM combo would be more effective.
 

kmfdmpig

Member
Quick question:
I'm going to buy a prebuilt (no time or patience to build my own).
I have the chance to buy Windows 10 education for $11 on my own. How hard is it to install Windows 10 on a prebuilt with no CD drive? I know I can just copy the files to a USB drive, but was wondering how much of a hassle it would be to install Windows that way vs. paying an extra ~$50 or so and having (Windows 10 Home) installed by the builder.
 

Ghazi

Member
Quick question:
I'm going to buy a prebuilt (no time or patience to build my own).
I have the chance to buy Windows 10 education for $11 on my own. How hard is it to install Windows 10 on a prebuilt with no CD drive? I know I can just copy the files to a USB drive, but was wondering how much of a hassle it would be to install Windows that way vs. paying an extra ~$50 or so and having (Windows 10 Home) installed by the builder.
You can buy a legitimate Windows 10 Pro key from PlayAsia for $10. The downloader asks if you want to put the W10 install on a CD or USB, it's all automated and simple.
 

kmfdmpig

Member
You can buy a legitimate Windows 10 Pro key from PlayAsia for $10. The downloader asks if you want to put the W10 install on a CD or USB, it's all automated and simple.

Thanks. Sounds good. Is Windows pretty good about finding the right drivers for different components or is that something I'd need to do once Windows was installed?

Actually, in looking into it it seems like Education is better than Pro, although tbh I'd be fine with Home based on what I do. The cost is a bit less to get education ($9.95 vs. ~15 for PA's Pro).
 

ISee

Member
Quick question:
I'm going to buy a prebuilt (no time or patience to build my own).
I have the chance to buy Windows 10 education for $11 on my own. How hard is it to install Windows 10 on a prebuilt with no CD drive? I know I can just copy the files to a USB drive, but was wondering how much of a hassle it would be to install Windows that way vs. paying an extra ~$50 or so and having (Windows 10 Home) installed by the builder.

I switched to install windows 10 from usb only. I don't even have a dedicated windows 10 usb drive, I just use the windows media creation tool to make my own when I need it. Of course you need a running PC to do that in the first place. It's fast and easy, especially from an usb 3 drive. Windows will install drivers and everything should work fine. Still, installing the newer drivers from nvidida/amd for your GPU and the newest drivers for your motherboard (can be found on the MB CD or on the support page) is recommended.
 
I'm just really worried about investing a ton of money into something (new CPU) that might not make a big difference in games. But stuff like Watch Dogs 2 is completely pegging my current CPU even with a decent OC and I don't know where to go from here.

Record some logs of CPU/ram/gpu usage while gaming (MSI Afterburner is an easy solution). I'm guessing you're laying at 1080/60? And most of the time you're probably CPU limited with that setup. It'll be obvious in the logs if that's the case--and if so, you'd improve your performance with a modern CPU. You can also tell if it's asking for more ram that way.

If you're gaming at 1080/60 and are already hitting that in most games, then you won't see as much of a benefit with a CPU upgrade. It'll help improve frame time consistency to decrease apparent judder though.

if I were you I would probably start saving up for a CPU/mobo/ram upgrad.
 

SURESNIPE-MSU

Neo Member
My buddy recently built a pretty high end machine for work... and it has been working fine for a month or so.

Yesterday his computer stopped booting. When he powers it on the fans spin but his dram led light stays solid red (on his mobo) and the CPU led light does nothing. He also gets some error 53 on his mobo related to ram/memory issue. Nothing shows up on his monitor display. He has a Rampage V extreme
E9550.

He has tried all his ram sticks individually (he has 32gb in each slot) with no luck, reseated his CPU multiple times and is just sort of stuck with what to.

Any ideas? It is his first pc build and I myself have never built a pc.

Thanks!
 
My buddy recently built a pretty high end machine for work... and it has been working fine for a month or so.

Yesterday his computer stopped booting. When he powers it on the fans spin but his dram led light stays solid red (on his mobo) and the CPU led light does nothing. He also gets some error 53 on his mobo related to ram/memory issue. Nothing shows up on his monitor display. He has a Rampage V extreme
E9550.

He has tried all his ram sticks individually (he has 32gb in each slot) with no luck, reseated his CPU multiple times and is just sort of stuck with what to.

Any ideas? It is his first pc build and I myself have never built a pc.

Thanks!
I would check for BIOS updates, if he's not on the latest bios. Sometimes they add certainly stabillity things for ram and whatnot.

Could try resetting the CMOS battery. Is there another set of RAM he could borrow from someone to try out?
 
Top Bottom