Do you the E6P and C6P use the same firmware? Could I use this to downgrade my C6P?
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LG promises HDR gaming input lag patch for 2016 OLED sets
- Thread starter Futurevoid
- Start date
Do you the E6P and C6P use the same firmware? Could I use this to downgrade my C6P?
Yup, that should work fine.
holygeesus
Banned
I still think it is lag related, at least on the B6. The original US firmware that first introduced HDR Game mode, was as bright as the other modes but had tearing. I wonder if that was related to their fix? Does the 2017 range have a dim HDR Game mode too?
Spartancarver
Member
Shit, glad I clicked this thread. Will be turning off automatic updates on my B6 first thing when I get home
Here are some rough but hopefully useful instructions to downgrade to your firmware of choice:
1. Get the LgDTVUpDater_04_2017.zip program. I won't post a link here to avoid any troubleGoogle.
2. (Delete the "LgDTVUpDater" folder if you already set it up, that'll make it simpler)
3. Extract the zip to C:, so you end up with "C:\LgDTVUpDater"
4. Identify the firmware you want to downgrade to. You need the actual firmware file, which you can might be able to get from your countrys LGs support site at the moment. If not, hopefully you have it downloaded previously. ( I chose 04.31.05 as my target)
5. Copy the firmware to "C:\LgDTVUpDater\htdocs"
6. Follow the 3 first steps here to identify what your Response file should be named.
7. Go to "C:\LgDTVUpDater\zagotovki\local\2016". Identify your model from the folder list. For example, for C6, go to "UH780, UH850-UH855, UH950-UH955, OLED E6, C6"
8. Go into one of the folders in there. The firmware numbers there shouldn't matter, as we'll edit it to fit the firmware we're downgrading to later. I used "04_30_55_GB_" as my base.
9. Copy the file you find in there to "C:\LgDTVUpDater\htdocs". The file name for my C6 was "HE_DTV_W16M_AFADABAA".
10. Rename the file to whatever you came up with in step 6!
11. Open the file you just copied in a text editor like notepad.
12. You need to edit this file to match the firmware you have downloaded. Here's the file I ended up with for reference:
Code:<RESPONSE><RESULT_CD>900</RESULT_CD><MSG>Success</MSG><REQ_ID>00000000008076692602</REQ_ID><IMAGE_URL>http://snu.lge.com/SWDownload.laf</IMAGE_URL><IMAGE_SIZE>892884989</IMAGE_SIZE><IMAGE_NAME>starfish-dvb-secured-m16-7.deua.m16-727-04.31.05-prodkey_usb_V3_SECURED.epk</IMAGE_NAME><UPDATE_MAJOR_VER>04</UPDATE_MAJOR_VER><UPDATE_MINOR_VER>31.05</UPDATE_MINOR_VER><FORCE_FLAG>Y</FORCE_FLAG><KE></KE><GMT>19 May 2017 14:24:34 GMT</GMT><ECO_INFO>01</ECO_INFO><CDN_URL>http://snu.lge.com:80/starfish-dvb-secured-m16-7.deua.m16-727-04.31.05-prodkey_usb_V3_SECURED.epk</CDN_URL><CONTENTS></CONTENTS></RESPONSE>
Things to pay attention to here:
- <IMAGE_SIZE> should match the exact file size of the firmware. You can find it by right-clicking the firmware file and choosing Properties. Copy the bytes value like in this picture:
Remove the spaces after pasting it into <IMAGE_SIZE>- <IMAGE_NAME> should be the exact name of your firmware file.
- <UPDATE_MAJOR_VER> should match the two first digits of the firmware version you're downgrading to, 04 in my case.
- <UPDATE_MINOR_VER> should match the last 4 digits of the firmware version, plus the dot inbetween, 31.05 in my case.
- <GMT> I entered the date the firmware file was created, you can find that in the properties of the firmware file as well. In my case it was 19 May 2017 14:24:34.
- <CDN_URL> you need to add the filename of your firmware after "http://snu.lge.com:80/". In my case it was http://snu.lge.com:80/starfish-dvb-secured-m16-7.deua.m16-727-04.31.05-prodkey_usb_V3_SECURED.epk.
13. Save the file
14. Go to "C:\LgDTVUpDater" and double click on "start.bat"
15. Answer N to the first question and press Enter.
16. Look at the IP address at the start of the next question. Verify that this matches the local IP of your computer. (Here's how to find your local IP) If the address matches, answer Y and press Enter.
17. Repeat the previous step. If the IP matches, answer Y and press Enter.
18. Go to the internet settings on your TV, choose Ethernet or Wifi, select Edit, Uncheck "Set Automatically". Enter the Local IP of your computer into "DNS SERVER"
Click Connect. (It won't connect right now)
19. Go back to your PC and press Enter in the command window with yellow text. If you get any Firewall warnings, allow them all through the firewall.
20. Go back to the TV and verify that it connects to the internet (All 4 rings should be green in the window you entered the computer IP.
21. If it connects, go to General -> About This TV, and click "Check for updates". Hopefully it finds the firmware you want to downgrade to. Click "Install".
22. If all is well, it should start downgrading!
I recommend resetting the TV to Initial Settings after downgrading, to be sure it works as intended. I have no idea if this is needed, I just like to do it as an added precaution. Not doing it might be perfectly fine.
This was long and hard to read, but it should contain all you need to complete the downgrade successfully. Let me know if it works for you!
UPDATE: If you're running IIS on your Windows installation, you might have to perform the steps mentioned here. (Scroll down to the instructions regarding Windows 10 and W3SVC) Be sure to reverse the steps once you're finished.
Lord almighty, I finally got it working.
So it turns out the thing I was doing wrong was using whatismyip.com to look up my IP. It spat out something that wasn't what I needed. When I followed your instructions and looked up my ip through ipconfig, that's what finally did it.
Right now it says "update in progress", though the bar isn't advancing. Does it usually take this long, or is something else holding it back?
Edit: Just restarted using the AVS link you posted. It's downloading now.
Super stocked about this. Now I can go back to stuff like Horizon without losing the HDR. This should be stickied or something.
boredandlazy
Member
Dammit, ithought my E6 had already updated a week ago so I didn't bother turning off updates... Then I got a dreaded prompt saying ny TV had updated this morning...
I'm in Australia for what it's worth.
I'm in Australia for what it's worth.
TLZ
Banned
Did just that.
My 2 cents may not sound good to many here, but I don't have an issue with it. When I switched between HDR and SDR in Last of Us, brightness looked the same to me so nothing changed there, but that's because I already play SDR content on 40 OLED light. In that sense, it's all good for me. But the problem is, HDR Game mode is on 100 OLED light. 100 OLED light HDR almost = 40 OLED light SDR. Lol. That is not good for many people. I can't believe they made the max OLED light for HDR that dim. Why not make it as bright as SDR's and leave us bring it down to 40 or 50 or whatever we want?
Might as well lock us out at 50 color and other options. We have all these options to play with for a reason.
jstevenson
Sailor Stevenson
Good to hear you got it working!
MosquitoSmasher
Member
NYR
Member
Yep.
Right now, it's 2016 but if the fix was to prevent burn in on OLEDs per some unverified rumors, you best believe it is coming to 2017 models.
I followed the steps in the AVS link you posted since I'm on a C6. The tv connects and I get all green circles, but when I click check for update it just says no update found. Tried to retrace my steps to see if I missed something but it was a pretty straight forwards process in that AVS post.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
I followed the steps in the AVS link you posted since I'm on a C6. The tv connects and I get all green circles, but when I click check for update it just says no update found. Tried to retrace my steps to see if I missed something but it was a pretty straight forwards process in that AVS post.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Do you have a US model C6, a C6P?
That's correct.
One thing I noticed is when I run startDNS the command prompt stays open, but when I run startHTTPS it opens for a sec but then immediately closes. Could that mean that part is failing?
After like 1.5-2 hrs tinkering around I was able to hop on my wife's win 10 machine instead. Definitely an issue with my pc and startHTTPS. That command prompt stayed open on her machine and it's downloading now.
Yappadappadu
Member
Well if you still want to check why it didn't work with your own computer, try this:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=245117617&postcount=1668
It's possible that some service is blocking port 80 that is required to run apache.
EDIT: Essentially what Yappadappadu said above. (Need to learn to read all posts before replying),
Sounds like Apache had trouble starting. This can happen if you're already running a web server, like IIS. Here's some info. If you're not running IIS, I'm not really sure why it failed.
Anyway, good to hear that you found a workaround.
Sounds like Apache had trouble starting. This can happen if you're already running a web server, like IIS. Here's some info. If you're not running IIS, I'm not really sure why it failed.
Anyway, good to hear that you found a workaround.
NYR
Member
Help Article is back up on LG, without the Customer Service add-on at the end.
http://www.lg.com/ca_en/support/product-help/CT20098005-20150410129990-others
NYR
Member
I believe you can block the LG server in your router. Deepo posted a few pages back to block snu.lge.com and su.lge.com in the firewall of your router:
ReplacementPelican
Member
So saturated. Had to bump my colour up close to 100, seems better now.
NYR
Member
Ugh, that sucks. I would just abandon HDR Game Mode and use HDR Bright at this point.
Appreciate it
And yeah, not running any web server as far as I know
. No clue what was up.moltonasty
Member
holygeesus
Banned
MakotoYuki
Member
What happened to make you stop using HDR game mode?
NYR
Member
lol, read the last few pages.
holygeesus
Banned
GinoFelino
Member
Don't think 04.31.05 exists for US models, but here's a link to 04.31.00 for the Canada/US C6P and E6P: http://www.lg.com/us/lgecs.downloadFile.ldwf?DOC_ID=20150368731783&what=MANUAL&fromSystem=LG.COM&fileId=RQ8o8WmYwypD3WzDOdyJw&ORIGINAL_NAME_b1_a1=Software_File%28Version_04.31.00%29.zip
I believe that was the last FW released before the one with the screwed (or improved, depending on taste) HDR Game Mode (05.30.02)
Shiiiiit. I changed networks recently and stupidly put my TV back on wi fi because I forgot about this. Now my TV has bloody updated.
It looks awful. Fuck. The colours are ruined. I'm playing Wipeout now and I can tell its screwy because menus that had black text on now have grey text, and some text looks almost transparent. So that effect is being applied to all colours. Every thing looks washed out.
And the same has happend to HDR Vivid (yeah fight me), albeit not quite as pronounced, which leads me to believe this is some proposed change to target burn in or something.
I hate it.
It looks awful. Fuck. The colours are ruined. I'm playing Wipeout now and I can tell its screwy because menus that had black text on now have grey text, and some text looks almost transparent. So that effect is being applied to all colours. Every thing looks washed out.
And the same has happend to HDR Vivid (yeah fight me), albeit not quite as pronounced, which leads me to believe this is some proposed change to target burn in or something.
I hate it.
But running any other HDR mode than game does increase input lag, correct?
OfTheOverflow
Member
Lol, my friend just bought the C6T and I immediately noticed the unplayable input lag when we turned the HDR on, then I remembered seeing this thread all the time.
Yeah. LG needs to fix this nonsense.
This thread is no longer about the input lag since they fixed that. It's the brightness that's borked now.
NYR
Member
Ah okay, 04.30.95 was the last one I had installed.
holygeesus
Banned
They will be different for both. I've not seen measurements for the latest B6 firmware though. The first one after HDR Game mode was introduced had lag for the other HDR modes at ~80ms but there is no way that is accurate.
Yappadappadu
Member
Help Article is back up on LG, without the Customer Service add-on at the end.
http://www.lg.com/ca_en/support/product-help/CT20098005-20150410129990-others
And an update from John Archer.
https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnar...n-and-you-probably-wont-like-it/#375e94051e23
LG doesn't intend to change anything regarding the dim HDR game mode. Doesn't mean that we can't continue getting on their nerves to get what we want.
Read the article. That's certainly not the move I'd make after just winning an award for second best TV in the industry.
Introduce HDR Game Accurate Mode. Done. Everybody's happy.
Would be interesting to see the input lag differences between HDR game mode and HDR standard mode with all the processing turned off.
I'm assuming game mode turns everything off to achieve the ~32ms input lag. Does turning off all processing (trumotion etc.) in HDR standard mode re-create HDR game mode or is LG doing additional things behind the scenes that consumers can't access?
I'm assuming game mode turns everything off to achieve the ~32ms input lag. Does turning off all processing (trumotion etc.) in HDR standard mode re-create HDR game mode or is LG doing additional things behind the scenes that consumers can't access?
MosquitoSmasher
Member
Yeah for all I care they make it optional so that you can choose the dim mode as well. Sigh LG.
It's starting to look more and more that I'll be having to get used to some input lag while using one of the other HDR modes.
That's what I wonder as well. People on AVS told me the input lag increase really isn't all that big. But what exactly is it I wonder. I am fine with game mode now and I'm sure HDR game mode as well with its small input lag increase but if I notice any more increases I have no idea.
Well that fucking sucks. Here goes my hope that the input lag wouldn't be too bad outside HDR game in other HDR modes.