Exactly, I was going to mention that too. Basically the only way is to use one of these adapters, either home-made or bought (if you can spare the ~$200).And it will cost you more than 2 separate wheels.
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NextGen Wheels peripherals PS4 and Xbox One Thread: NeoGaf Wheel Club Updates in OP
- Thread starter amar212
- Start date
Thinking about how I can get a setup for the ps4 and xbox one.
so my current setup with the PS4 is
Thrustmaster T300RS
T3PA pro pedals
and the gear shift
if I get this TX Racing Wheel Servo Base for the xbox. I should be able to use the pedals and gear shifter with this on the xbox right?
anyone have any experience with the Tx Racing wheel servo base?
so my current setup with the PS4 is
Thrustmaster T300RS
T3PA pro pedals
and the gear shift
if I get this TX Racing Wheel Servo Base for the xbox. I should be able to use the pedals and gear shifter with this on the xbox right?
anyone have any experience with the Tx Racing wheel servo base?
drugstore_cowboy
Member
That'll work, no problem if the shifter is the TH8A and not the TH8RS.
Awesome thanks. Just checked I've got the TH8A.
It's something you really need to decide for yourself.
Fair enough, I'll try both. Thank you.
Mmm. Can't drive more than a minute without my Fanatec CSR-E wheel disconnecting now. Tried it in Forza 4 with the same problem, so it's not PS4/pCARS fault. This could explain the high number of random crashes I've been having in pCARS over the last couple of days. Something ain't right. Quick web research suggests static electricity or interference could be the culprit. It seemed to get a LOT worse since using the companion app yesterday, but still happens with the tablet turned completely off. USB connections all checked, Formula Rim removed/checked/replaced.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Thanks m0dus, I will give that a go. Quick research shows disconnections are not an uncommon intermittent problem, but it's literally within a minute of starting the race. I must check to see if it ever disconnects in the menus or only when the FFB kicks in on the track.
Further to the above, I made up an earth cable and plug but haven't connected it yet as I've just been running some more tests and I don't think my problem is related to static. My CSR Elite disconnections seemed to happen very soon after starting driving, so I started a quick race at Dubai and sat on the grid for a few laps to see if it was time related. There was no disconnection even after about six minutes. I then started driving down the start/finish straight and sure enough the wheel disconnected after a few seconds. I happened to notice that the disconnection happened halfway through turn one so started another race, sat on the grid for a few laps, then turned my wheel while still stationary on the grid. Sure enough, the wheel disconnected when the wheel got to around 90 degrees. I repeated this several times with the same result. I then turned FF (force feedback) down to zero in the on-wheel Fanatec digital display and repeated the test, but the wheel stayed connected. With FF at zero on the wheel I was able to drive around the circuit with no disconnections. I then started increasing the FF on the wheel and could drive fine up to 40% FF, but anything above that and the wheel would disconnect when it was turned. So for some reason the steering FFB forces disconnect the wheel even if set relatively weak. I tried recalibrating the wheel but it made no difference (it even disconnected the first time during the recalibration).
Any thoughts? I guess the next step is to reflash the firmware (I have the most up to date installed anyway) but I always seem to have problems doing this (I've not had to do it on this wheel as it came with latest firmware installed).
I still can't work out why increasing FFB would disconnect the wheel, unless there's a dry solder joint somewhere and the vibrations open it up, although there's very little vibration when just turning the wheel while sat stationary on the grid, and the wheel still disconnects.
Very puzzling.
Any thoughts? I guess the next step is to reflash the firmware (I have the most up to date installed anyway) but I always seem to have problems doing this (I've not had to do it on this wheel as it came with latest firmware installed).
I still can't work out why increasing FFB would disconnect the wheel, unless there's a dry solder joint somewhere and the vibrations open it up, although there's very little vibration when just turning the wheel while sat stationary on the grid, and the wheel still disconnects.
Very puzzling.
Guys! I need quick input!
I can get a Thrustmaster TX for Xbox One and PC for £220 minimum and i've been looking for prices for a while...
...but then I saw LOGITECH Driving Force G920 for £160
Should I cave in and get this?
I will mostly use it for Forza 6 for Xbox One and Euro Truck Simulator 2 on the PC.
I can get a Thrustmaster TX for Xbox One and PC for £220 minimum and i've been looking for prices for a while...
...but then I saw LOGITECH Driving Force G920 for £160
Should I cave in and get this?
I will mostly use it for Forza 6 for Xbox One and Euro Truck Simulator 2 on the PC.
I've wanted a wheel for a while, but I've always leaned more toward the arcadey racers that don't seem to benefit as much, and they've always seemed too expensive for the use they would realistically get. But after experiencing VR, the prospect of racing with a wheel suddenly became that much more enticing.
Yesterday I found someone selling a Thrustmaster TX with pedals, a Wheel Stand Pro, and Forza Horizon 2 (which I already have and intend to resell). Described as only having a few hours of use. For $300. I decided to jump on it.
The only game I've tried so far is Dirt Rally. Maybe not the first the best choice to get my feet wet; I was even more horrible than usual. I was impressed by the amount of force feedback though. I have Forza 6 waiting to be played so I might use that game to help me ease into it.
Anyone have any tips for a wheel newb? One thing that I noticed while playing Dirt Rally is that I still had to use the keyboard to get around the interface. Is that typical or is there a more standard way that wheel-supporting PC games use to navigate? I found myself wishing there was a d-pad somewhere on the wheel.
Are there any simcade racers (somewhere near the DriveClub / Forza Horizon point on the spectrum) out or coming soon that will have Oculus / VR support on PC?
Yesterday I found someone selling a Thrustmaster TX with pedals, a Wheel Stand Pro, and Forza Horizon 2 (which I already have and intend to resell). Described as only having a few hours of use. For $300. I decided to jump on it.
The only game I've tried so far is Dirt Rally. Maybe not the first the best choice to get my feet wet; I was even more horrible than usual. I was impressed by the amount of force feedback though. I have Forza 6 waiting to be played so I might use that game to help me ease into it.
Anyone have any tips for a wheel newb? One thing that I noticed while playing Dirt Rally is that I still had to use the keyboard to get around the interface. Is that typical or is there a more standard way that wheel-supporting PC games use to navigate? I found myself wishing there was a d-pad somewhere on the wheel.
Are there any simcade racers (somewhere near the DriveClub / Forza Horizon point on the spectrum) out or coming soon that will have Oculus / VR support on PC?
Wow... not sure how I missed that. And thanks for the Grid Autosport recommendation. I played and enjoyed Grid 2 but I kind of forgot about Autosport.
bestfieldscup
Neo Member
Thrustmaster T100: £40 (used)
Thrustmaster T300: £205 (new)
G29: £150 (new)
which would you go for?
Will the G29 be compatible with future racing games?
Thrustmaster T300: £205 (new)
G29: £150 (new)
which would you go for?
Will the G29 be compatible with future racing games?
Cheeseman Battitude
Member
Just wondering where the reasonably priced FFB wheel for the Xbone is (excluding any deals on the Logitech wheels at the moment.) I bought the Xbone and Forza 5 and got the Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 Spider because I didn't want to spend too much on a wheel. I got a T150 for my PS4 at Christmas for about £100, usual price is £130-ish and I wondered if there's anything in the same price range with FFB for the Xbone. Can't find anything. It seems to have the 458 Spider at £70-80, then the TX Italia for over £250. There's nothing in that sweet spot like the T150 is.
where are you seeing those prices? Might need a new wheel for when my OR arrives (and also eventually for Driveclub/Gran Turismo sport
AbandonedTrolley
Member
G29 is the new one certified for PS4 right? and works on PC?
Would also be interested in any impressions Vs the Thrustmaster T300
AbandonedTrolley
Member
Yes it's the pretty much rewheeled and repurposed G27. I believe people have said the internals are pretty much all the same. The G29 is PS4/PC and the G920 is XBO/PC
Shifter is extra but that's also half price at Currys too at the moment.
MagnetoWasRight
Member
I was wondering this too. Why does a horrible budget title like WRC 5 support the CSR Elite so wonderfully but Driveclub can't?
Hi everyone!
I want to buy a wheel but i need your help to decide
I want to use in PC (Dirt Rally, Project Cars, etc...) but also in one console (Forza in Xbox, Project Cars maybe in PS4). Which console really doesn't matter, PC will be the main. (Also, games support natively will be nice)
I think about Logitech in firts place, but i see the G920 or G29 is too expensive and comes without shifter.
Looking information, i see the T300RS, how about it? I also read that the Thrustmaster products tend to fail, meanwhile Logitech last for years.
Can you help me to choose one around 300? (I'm flexible)
Thanks!
I want to buy a wheel but i need your help to decide
I want to use in PC (Dirt Rally, Project Cars, etc...) but also in one console (Forza in Xbox, Project Cars maybe in PS4). Which console really doesn't matter, PC will be the main. (Also, games support natively will be nice)
I think about Logitech in firts place, but i see the G920 or G29 is too expensive and comes without shifter.
Looking information, i see the T300RS, how about it? I also read that the Thrustmaster products tend to fail, meanwhile Logitech last for years.
Can you help me to choose one around 300? (I'm flexible)
Thanks!
nowheretorun
Member
backbreaker65
Banned
Quick Tip how to adjust the angle of your Thurstmaster Wheel.
just like it says tap once to achieve your angle.
tap once and wait for the flash
then tap again and wait for it to flash twice and so on
You have to do this each time you load up the thrustmaster
just like it says tap once to achieve your angle.
tap once and wait for the flash
then tap again and wait for it to flash twice and so on
You have to do this each time you load up the thrustmaster
Forgot to update this. New motor block fitted and it instantly solved the disconnections. And (it seems) solved all of the random crashes-to-dash I was getting in pCARS.
Cheeseman Battitude
Member
So is there an equivalent to the T150 for Xbox One?
drugstore_cowboy
Member
Oh shit haha!
There was a very old one with a similar setup that pressed keys as the wheel turned, this is a good update.
There was a very old one with a similar setup that pressed keys as the wheel turned, this is a good update.
Spaaaaaaaaace
Member
So I really want to try out a wheel for PC and PS4, but don't have too much to spend. I've been looking into the Thrustmaster T150 but can't find many reviews online. Most of the ones from Amazon are very weird. Anyways, I thought I would ask here for your guys opinions. I don't play much, my only previous wheel was the Microsoft Wireless Wheel that I really liked, not the wireless (non pedal) one. I have a few games on both PS4 and PC, Dirt 3 beign my favorite.
This also applies to me. The t80 seems somehow worse than the ms wheel I used to own, while the g29 is insanely overpriced. T150...I dunno. This gen blows for wheel options I guess.
So there is no G25... is what you are saying. Can't argue with that. The G25 really was an amazing product when it came out. Apparently Fanatec is working on a "budget" wheel (CSL). It will probably be similar to the Porsche GT2 and CSR wheels but with interchangeable rims.
With that said, the "budget" base is in need of a "budget" rim, with the cheapest version a 150 euro's (in Europe). The "budget" base will be at least that, which means 300 euro's. Then you still need pedals and a shifter if you wish.
So good putting the "'s on the "budget". In Fanatec terms it truly is budget ;-)
UpUpDownDown
Member
Picked one of these up. Seems like the spiritual successor to the driving force GT.
Wheel is fabulous. It's a belt/gear combo and is relativity quiet next to my g25. Force feedback is just a good if not better. Pedals are plastic, but fully serviceable. I plan on buying an adaptor for my Logitech pedals. Paddle shifters are metal and awesome.
For 250 canadian this wheel knocks it out of the park.
Do a Google search for 't150 inside sim racing' for a very detailed review.
I highly recommend this for ps4 owners who dont wanna break the bank (or are pissed off that their old wheel won't work!).
The T80 is junk.
Edit: just an FYI, no issues clamping it to a wheel stand pro (lacking hardmounts on the wheel unfortunatly). Nice and sturdy too.
SkoomaSuckinSwit
Member
Thrustmaster T150 Review for PC, PS3 & PS4 - Inside Sim Racing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJoZyCWUhDs
Was looking into this too, thought I'd post the link, watching now.
UpUpDownDown
Member
It's got a quality feel and is pretty much the t300 with a few compromises in materials, but not feedback.
...contrary to the ISR review, the pedal angles can be adjusted.
Also worth noting that its compatible with the thrustmaster ecosystem. So you can add a shifter ($) or upgrade your pedals ($$$) in the future.
The decision to purchase either the G29 or the T150 has been eating away at me, but I noticed Fry's is currently selling the T150 for $169, so that clinched my decision. Shoddy pedals be damned I suppose.
First impression is that the wheel is not really all that terrible feeling as reviews state. The 'hollow plastic' exists, but its less hollow and fragile as that phrasing suggests. Base is solid, FFB feels strong, even the pedals have some nice resistance despite them literally being just plastic.
My largest complaint upon unboxing is that the AC adapter cord is tiny. I had to pull out an extension cable from a different room for it to reach to the outlet behind my home theater and PS4. I think the Wii and Gamecube controllers had longer cables!
About to try the T150 with GT6(PS3) and Driveclub(PS4) for some real driving tests now. (No wheel stand yet, so I am clamped up to my coffee table for now...)
I really wish I grabbed Dirt 3 Complete and Project Cars last week during the Steam Sale...Just didn't expect I would be wheel shopping so soon.
Spaaaaaaaaace
Member
Thanks for all the replies. I bought a like new one from amazon warehouse. Dirt 3 complete is ready and waiting. Now either to build a stand or buy one.
UpUpDownDown
Member
I've been doing the same. But after 2 years of waiting the t150 seemed like a decent option to cover my ps3/4/pc racing. Having native ps3/4 console buttons is a lot nicer then I thought too, never had them on my G wheels in the past.
Anyone know if the Logitech to thrustmaster pedal adapter adds any lag? If not I'll do that instead of upgrading to thrustmasters own premium pedals in the future.
Nice!
Have a look at the 'wheelstand pro' line. Not too expensive and top quality. Ive had mine for year's and its still in great condition.
The decision to purchase either the G29 or the T150 has been eating away at me, but I noticed Fry's is currently selling the T150 for $169, so that clinched my decision. Shoddy pedals be damned I suppose.
First impression is that the wheel is not really all that terrible feeling as reviews state. The 'hollow plastic' exists, but its less hollow and fragile as that phrasing suggests. Base is solid, FFB feels strong, even the pedals have some nice resistance despite them literally being just plastic.
My largest complaint upon unboxing is that the AC adapter cord is tiny. I had to pull out an extension cable from a different room for it to reach to the outlet behind my home theater and PS4. I think the Wii and Gamecube controllers had longer cables!
About to try the T150 with GT6(PS3) and Driveclub(PS4) for some real driving tests now. (No wheel stand yet, so I am clamped up to my coffee table for now...)
I really wish I grabbed Dirt 3 Complete and Project Cars last week during the Steam Sale...Just didn't expect I would be wheel shopping so soon.
Impressions would be good when you've had more time with it. It definitely looks interesting, but the G29 and also the T300 are tempting too.
After some hefty use of the t150, I have decided to actually return it to upgrade to the t300.
There isn't anything actively wrong with the t150 as my time spent with Driveclub, GT6, and Dirt 3 have been wonderful thus far. It's a VERY solid entry-level wheel that is leagues better than the MS Wireless Wheel I had on 360. Despite being mostly built of plastic, the wheel is quite sturdy, the FFB is very strong, and I had zero issues getting it running immediately with Windows 10 and PS3/4. (Though Dirt 3 required a very simple .ini fix to get it to recognize the wheel).
Quick impressions:
Dirt 3: Pretty amazing FFB(though I hear Dirt Rally is far better). Joy to play as the little bits of gravel and mud are reflected through rumble and the feedback is quite strong. Drifting events are nigh impossible on the wheel(I guess I need to fiddle with settings to actually compete in those, lowering turn radius?) but the core racing and rally events are just awesome and it looks stunning for an older game.
GT6: I grabbed it for $15 on PSN this week, my first GT since GT3 on PS2. I honestly think it kind of sucks though. Wheel works great with it, but even at max FFB it feels somewhat tinny compared to the other games. My biggest problem lies in the dull campaign and complete lack of AI and awareness from racers. Zero personality, just robotic cars that stick to their line, and even impacts/bumping feels super weak(no damage either!). Some events are fun though (like the specialized free DLC stuff) and it looks alright being a PS3 game, but man...the core racing is amateurish compared to say Forza 3/4.
Driveclub: Spent very little time with it so far as the PS4 is not near my PC desk(where my wheel was setup) but I tried a few races from my coffee table and it worked quite well. Didn't try the new "Hardcore" setting which turns off all assists for a more pure driving experience, but I will with the t300. Game is still a real looker and the force feedback was strong.
Ultimately my decision to upgrade was one born out of long-term appeal. After long sessions with the above games over the last few days, I really started wanting a higher quality wheel rim that offered greater padding and more grip. The rubberized section of the t150 works fine for simple turns where you can just keep your hands on the blue rubber, but races that demand closer to 900 degree full wheel rotation and that wheel starts spinning with you grasping the somewhat fiddly plastic sections and well it just left me feeling like I could stand to spend a bit more for a premium option(and the t300 will also fit the Wheelstand Pro I bought for the t150, which is why I am not going for the G29 instead). Oh and the somewhat improved pedals on the t300(well as improved as they can be) is a bonus too.
I would easily recommend the t150 though despite my decision to upgrade. The t150 works beautifully and I found it offered a great option for anyone looking to enjoy racing games without blowing $400+ for a setup. Perfect for casual players just wanting to grow beyond the controller. Not really sure how advantageous the t300 will end up feeling as it is largely identical outside of higher quality parts and materials, but I will circle back on that.
Oddvintagechap
Member
Ok noob here.
which wheel do I get for my PS4?
if it works with PC it would be swell.
which wheel do I get for my PS4?
if it works with PC it would be swell.
All PS4 wheels currently available will also work with PC(and likely PS3).
~$100: Get the Thrustmaster T80 (No force feedback though...so not worth it)
~$200: Get the Thrustmaster T150
~$400: Get either the Thrustmaster T300 or Logitech G29.
Those are your quick and dirty options really...
soundscream
Member
FYI for anyone looking for a Xbox wheel but don't want to fork over the money for a TX
Thrustmaster is finally releasing a XB1 version of the T150. The TMX wheel will be available in may for $199
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FNi_ruThxYg
Thrustmaster is finally releasing a XB1 version of the T150. The TMX wheel will be available in may for $199
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FNi_ruThxYg
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