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[Wubby]

Scale Modeling Age: GAF builds planes, tanks, cars, ships & sci-fi.

There's a Lego thread, war gaming, Gundam, and a figure collecting thread but no decent scale modeling thread for planes, tanks, cars & etc . So here's my attempt to make a good GAF thread for scale modeling.

This thread is a place to post your work, ask questions or share modeling tips, discuss tools, paints, kits and new releases. My intent for this thread is to help new people get into the hobby as well. I plan to do a series of short(?) posts discussing tools, paints and just random things I've learned along the way. Any other modelers out there have anything else to share please do so!

** This thread is only for models you have to build and paint yourself. Pre-built & painted figures belong in the figure collecting thread.

Why scale modeling?
Scale modeling is a hobby that rewards you with something to show for your work. Sure you could buy something already built, but for some there's no fun in that. The fun is in the building & painting. It's also a hobby that in my opinion goes well with gaming. In fact there are many models out there based on gaming subjects such as the ship from Ikaruga, as well as Raystorm, the Gradius Vic Vipers, Armored Core mechs, Ace Combat, Mega Man and more.

There are many subjects to choose from. There's aircraft, tanks and military vehicles, ships, cars & bikes, trains, gyoza (WTF?), castles and lot's of Sci-Fi subjects from Star Trek, Star Wars, Robotech/Macross, Gundam, and Maschinen Krieger just to name a few. Basically whatever you're into there's probably a kit of it somewhere.

*Photos are of Japanese model Azusa Takagi.

Who can do it?

Anyone! Will your first kit be a masterpiece? Probably not. But hey no one really expects to go through a game without making mistakes. It takes time to become a good modeler. I don't claim to be a master, or even good at it. I've never met a modeler who's said they have nothing left to learn. Every kit I've built there's always something I screwed up or wish I had done differently. Each model you build you learn from your mistakes and become better. Build, build then build some more.


Getting Started with modeling
Part 1: Choosing your first kit & Model Scales explained
Part 2: Quick note on Safety
Part 3: Basic tools & supplies


Modeling terms / Glossary Basics for now, more can be added if necessary.

Decals - Pre-printed details that are applied to the model after painting. Typically these are printed on a sheet of paper that has a special glue that activates when wet. You soak the decal in warm water till it gets loose then slide it onto the model and let it dry. Dry-transfer decals you just rub on. In America it's pronounced 'dee-cal' but in Britain/EU/Aus it's 'deh-cal'.

Flash - Model kits are made by injecting plastic into a metal mold. Sometimes the mold surfaces don't match up correctly. When this happens the plastic will creep into these cracks and you will end up with unneeded bits of plastic hanging off the sides of the parts.

OOB - Building a kit using only the parts contained in the box, no aftermarket.

Scratch building/built - A model that was made without a kit or instructions. Custom designed and built using plastic sheet, resin, putty or other materials.

Sprue / Parts Tree - When you open a model box you will see all the parts lined up and attached together on a 'tree'. You have to cut the parts off these sprues/trees to build the model. Leftovers can be recycled or kept for supplies.

Links:

Online Model Shops

http://www.hlj.com/ - Hobby Link Japan. Good place to go for Japanese kits/tools. Prices are often reduced and even with shipping can be cheaper then buying from a local source

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/ - Hobby Search. Another source for kits from Japan.

http://www.luckymodel.com/ - Lucky Model. Based in HK they are a good source for kits and aftermarket parts. Also due to shipping laws HLJ/1999 are unable to ship paints and toxic materials but Lucky Model apparently has no problems shipping these goods. Also they offer free shipping on a number of items.

https://store.spruebrothers.com/ - Sprue Brothers. US online shop. Prices tend to be a bit high imo, but they have all the items in the US so no import worries.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/ - Hobbylinc. US Online shop. Decent prices (for US). Large selection of kits & supplies.

http://www.hannants.co.uk/ - Hannants. UK/EU online shop. Large selection. Good place to find kits from Eastern European (Czech) countries as well.

Model Companies

Japanese Manufacturers: Japanese manufacturers tend to be the best in the business. Only downside is they also tend to be expensive and the subjects they produce are largely aimed at the domestic Japanese market.

Tamiya. The Apple of the modeling world. The kits they make, especially their latest releases tend to be the best in scale. Also carry a price to match. Their paint line is popular world wide. Subjects: Bikes, Cars, Tanks/Military, Aircraft, Ships & paints/tools.

Bandai. The makers of Gundam. They also have some kits of the ships from the One Piece manga/anime series, Macross, Space Battleship Yamato & other anime related kits.

Hasegawa. Hasegawa is mainly famous as an aircraft kit maker. Their kits are some of the best around. Can also be a bit expensive. Subjects: Aircraft, Ships, Armor (1:72), Cars/F1 (not many), Sci-fi: Virtual On & Maschinen Krieger, tools.

Fujimi. Fujimi makes a wide variety of kits. They tend to be good. Subjects: Cars/F1, Ships (their latest 1/700 ships are best in scale), Aircraft & Armor.

Aoshima. Aoshima mainly specializes in car kits. Subjects: Cars, Space, Aircraft, Ships.

Kotobukiya. Kotobukiya makes most of the video game related kits. Subjects: Sci-fi/Anime (Virtual On, Armored Core, Mega Man (Rockman), Ikaruga, Raystorm and soon Metal Gear).

FineMolds. Fine Molds is a smaller Japanese kit maker. But their kits tend to be of great quality. Their Star Wars kits are much better (IMO) than the old AMT stuff. Subjects: Aircraft, Armor, Star Wars, Ghibli.

Chinese Manufacturers: Chinese manufactured kits have exploded onto the scene in the last 10 years. Their subjects vary as does the quality and price.

Dragon & Cyber-Hobby. Dragon & Cyber-Hobby have some pretty decent kits. Their armor kits are popular. Quality varies but their latest seems to be decent. Subjects: Armor/Military, aircraft, Ships.

Trumpeter. Similar to Dragon. Subjects: Armor/Military, Aircraft, Ships.

Hobby Boss. Good variety of kits. Decent quality, similar to Trumpeter. Subjects: Armor/Military, Aircraft, Ships.

Korean Manufacturers: There's only one of note.

Academy. Academy got it's start buy copying Hasegawa kits. They would change some parts of the kit though and pass it off as their own. Sometimes the changes actually made their version of the kit better than the Hasegawa version! Now they produce their own designs. Some of their kits are the best that you can get of that particular subject. Prices are cheaper than Japanese makers. Subjects: Aircraft, Armor.

American Manufacturers: Old companies who don't do much anymore.

AMT / ERTL (?). Most of what you will find from AMT are kits that were made 30+ years ago. Not the greatest IMO. They also have a line of Star Trek and Star Wars kits. They only make a few new kits now and they tend to all be American cars/Nascar. Subjects: Cars, Sci-Fi (Star Wars, Star Trek).

Revell USA/Monogram. Revell USA / Monogram are mostly old kits like AMT. Revell's saving grace comes from it's Euro counterpart Revell Germany who still produces great kits (see Euro section). Subjects: Cars, Aircraft, Ships.

Lindberg. Old, old kits & odd scales. Some people are fans and love these old kits but not me. These are the kits your dad made when he was a kid. Subjects: Cars, Aircraft, Ships.

European Manufacturers: Still making decent stuff! Too many countries so I'm going to lump them all together under the Euro label. Too many small Czech/Eastern European manufacturers so I won't list them all.

Airfix. Only a few years ago Airfix was just about dead (like US manufacturers). Then they were purchased by another British hobby company called Hornby who put some money into the company. They still sell a lot of their old tool kits but they've been making some decent new offerings recently as well. Their recent kits are all made in China I believe. Accuracy and quality isn't up to Tamiya levels but they are more than decent for the price you pay. Subjects: Aircraft, Armour.

Revell Germany. While Revell USA has faded away, Revell Germany keeps making some great kits. Subjects: Aircraft, Armor, Cars, Ships.

Italeri. Italy's only kit maker. Their kits are decent but they tend to have some fit issues. Their kits of Italian subjects are their best. Subjects: Aircraft. Armor, Ships.

 

[Wubby]

Getting started 1a: Choosing your first kit.

You probably already have an idea about what subject you will be interested in, but now what? A trip to the local hobby shop or online retailer will be next. Think about a budget beforehand. That $100 1/32 Tamiya Mustang$100 1/32 Tamiya Mustang kit may grab your attention but remember if it's your first kit more than likely it won't look as nice as the one on the side of the box. Start with lower cost, smaller scale kits and work your way up. If you're into Gundam I'd personally say start with a High Grade (HG) 1/144 or maybe even a 1/100 Master Grade (MG) before trying a Real or Perfect Grade kit.

Bigger kits = higher cost, can be more complex and need more space to be built & displayed. Smaller kits = lower cost, less space needed to build & display, greater number of subjects available. Remember if you are just getting into the hobby you will need to buy some tools and supplies as well so don't blow the budget all on one kit.

Getting Started 1b: The scales of modeling. 1/32? 1/35? 1/700! Oy vey!

To help you choose what size and understand the numbers on the side and front of the box let's take a quick look at some of the more common scales you will see. Scales represent the size of the model in relation to the real life object. A real Ferrari Enzo would be 1:1 scale. A 1/24 scale Tamiya Ferrari Enzo is 24 times smaller than the real car. Remember the higher the fraction the larger the model. A 1/72 scale US aircraft carrier would be around 3.5 meters long!, a 1/700 scale would only be 30cm. Scales are listed from largest to smallest, only the most common scales are listed.

Aircraft:

1/24 scale: These are huge. You'll need a lot of space to display one of these or hang it from the ceiling. Not many subjects available. Mainly WWII fighters I believe. Not many aftermarket parts or decals available either.

1/32 scale: Big. Popular choice in America. Still need a good place to display them. Tamiya's latest 1/32 aircraft are the god-tier of aircraft modeling. Detail can be really impressive. Subjects are still a bit limited though. Decent aftermarket available. Most expensive scale. I'd stay away of you are new to the hobby.

1/48 scale. Medium-large. A 1/48 bomber or larger aircraft can still be pretty huge. Most popular scale in America. A decent scale for a beginner. Fairly large number of subjects available, as well as aftermarket parts and decals. Can still be detailed but not as good as a 1/32 scale aircraft.

1/72 scale. Small-medium. This scale has the largest variety of kits available. My personal favorite scale due to the collectability size of the smaller kits. Largest aftermarket and decal selection available. Most popular scale in Europe and Japan. Downsides are parts can be tiny so it is easier to lose or break parts. Also detail is not as impressive as larger scales. Probably the oldest scale so some of the kits date back 30-40 years and don't go together so well.

1/144 & smaller scale. Micro. Smallest scale. Multi-engine bombers and large aircraft as well as some fighters. Small. Detail and painting can be tough. If you like airliners 1/200 is the scale for you.

Armor (or Amour for you Brits):

1/16 scale. Huge & expensive.

1/35 scale. Most common scale for armor. Some helicopters can also be found in this scale for diorama potential. If it had tracks, more than likely you can find it in this scale. Most aftermarket available as well. If you are going to build armor, this really is the only choice.

1/48 scale. Limited to Tamiya kits and some Italeri. Can be used to build dioramas with 1/48 aircraft. Tamiya kits are all rather new so they go together well.

1/72 & 1/76 scale. 2nd common scales for armor. Pretty small scale. Dragon makes some great kits in this scale, look for their kits that say 'Armor Pro'. Revel kits are also good I hear. Popular scale in Europe. Decent aftermarket available. Small parts and details can be tricky to work with.

Cars:

1/12 & larger scales. Huge. Size and detail can be very impressive (see latest 1/12 Tamiya Ferrari Enzo). Expensive. Stay away unless you know what you are doing. You really need impressive skills to pull off the paint job you will need to do on one of these.

1/24 & 1/25 scale. Most common scales for cars. 1/25 is used by American manufacturers, 1/24 elsewhere. There is a 4% difference between the two. Perfect size for car modeling and really your only choice.

Ships:

1/200 scale. Huge scale for ships. Not many kits. There's a new 1/200 USS Arizona that has some impressive detail and there's a bit of aftermarket available for it. Expensive.

1/350 scale. Large. Fewer subjects available and kits can still be expensive. Popular in America. Parts are easier to work with.

1/700 scale. Small. Most subjects & aftermarket available. Many obscure subjects available in resin. Detail with rigging and photo-etch aftermarket parts can really make these kits impressive. My personal opinion is you really need skill to pull off a detailed ship in this scale.

Gundam:

Mingus did a great job of running through the scales in a different thread so I'll just quote him here:

Grade can also reflect difficulty. Most of the 1/144 kits don't have that many parts so it's relatively simple. If you skip a step or put something in backwards by mistake, it's not hard to undo the mistake and separate the pieces. Master grade kits aren't harder per se, but mistakes can be pretty unforgiving. These things fit together pretty snugly and if you do make a mistake (which I have plenty of times), it's a chore to separate the parts without damaging them. A quick and dirty run down of the scales:

1/144 - The smallest; when a new series comes out, they'll come out with a really cheap and simple version with various names (Fast Grade, First Grade, etc). These are crap. Wait until the High Grade version comes out, as they are more detailed. For the long-running Universal Century timeline, there is the tried-and-true High Grade Universal Century (HGUC) line that has decent detail. Real Grade reflects the new line of 1/144 scale models with ridiculous detail and complexity, I haven't bought one yet so I can't comment on difficulty.

1/100 - These usually come in two flavors: for the current running series, these are the larger, more detailed version of their 1/144 counterparts going again by various "Grade" types; or they are the Master Grade (MG) version, which are I guess reissues of past and current models with very good detail. If you can't decide on which type to go with, go with Master Grade.

1/60 - I've never bought any of these, so my knowledge is limited here. Two types again; Perfect Grade and High Grade. The Perfect Grade (PG) ones are few, usually the main gundam from a series will be released with the highest detail and some metal parts. A newer addition is the High Grade, which from what I've seen, is just a 1/100 random grade except bigger.

I like to characterize the core of the gundam models as HGUC, MG, and PG; you can't go wrong with either of them. Since detail goes up with grade, there is less painting to be done for correct part colors if you just build vanilla as you go up in grade. I'm probably gonna get crap for assembling mine without painting at all, but I don't have the time or the materials. If you want a cheap model for practice or if it's not ever issued in the aforementioned grades, then the other versions are ok too I guess.

One more scale he didn't mention:

1/48 Mega size. As the name implies they're the biggest. Around 38cm tall when built. Only a few of the more popular mobile suits available. Pretty easy to put together . Would be a bit expensive in the US or Europe I'd imagine. IMO due to the details these are more impressive than the old 1/35 Jumbo grade vinyl mobile suits.

Sci-fi models:

Scales vary! There really are no set scales across sci-fi models. You will see lots of odd scales here such as non-scale, 1/60, 1/10,000 and up.

 

[lastplayed]

Cool thread!

I've been building planes and armour on and off since I was a kid. I usually just stick to armour these days though.

Here's a cheap M3 Stuart kit I whipped up a few months ago. I borrowed all my brother's painting tools, he's into it big time. He spends months building armour with custom metal parts and aftermarket kits.

 

[54-46!]

The folks over at /toy/ have a decent guide for Gunpla:

https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Tr8UyF2Xg5Ojqw0sxcO7oIG7IIsJPes3lMO5pHZKu5o

 

[yamo]

Armor (or Amour for you Brits):

or L'amour for you Frenchies

Cool thread by the way, used to build alot of models as a kid.

 

[FillerB]

And subscribed. I used to build (cheap) Revell-kits all the damn time when I was young. Maybe it would be cool to get back in to it.

Just a suggestion, assuming that you're done with the OP, but maybe you could add some links to model shops/brands?

 

[Wubby]

Cool thread!

I've been building planes and armour on and off since I was a kid. I usually just stick to armour these days though.

Here's a cheap M3 Stuart kit I whipped up a few months ago. I borrowed all my brother's painting tools, he's into it big time. He spends months building armour with custom metal parts and aftermarket kits.

Edit: Tank Pics

Nice tank! Did you preshade the edges/lines before painting or was that weathered on after? 1/35 scale I would guess? Haven't built any armor myself. I have a number of Dragon 1/72 armor kits in the stash though.

Cool thread by the way, used to build alot of models as a kid.

And subscribed. I used to build (cheap) Revell-kits all the damn time when I was young. Maybe it would be cool to get back in to it.

I actually just got back into it myself. I used to build when I was a kid too but like both of you moved onto other hobbies/games over time. This current console generation though hasn't been my cup of tea so I was looking for something else to do.

It's a good time to get back into it. The tools and supplies available today are much better than the old stuff I remember. Then again when I was younger I didn't really have the money to spend on it either.

Just a suggestion, assuming that you're done with the OP, but maybe you could add some links to model shops/brands?

OP is not done by any means. I tried to leave the first post a bit short so I could add stuff to it later on. Links was one thing I planned to add. I'll throw a few up now. If you have any suggestions for other web shops or such (that are reliable) post them here.

 

[Ken]

Since there's a custom Kampfer looking thing and RX-78 Gundam in your post, are those allowed to be posted here or in the Gundam thread? @_@

 

[yamo]

Yeah web shops (that deliver to EU preferably) would be really interesting as the market is pretty small here in Sweden.

My biggest problem getting in to this hobby is probably lack of work space in my home though.

 

[Wubby]

Since there's a custom Kampfer looking thing and RX-78 Gundam in your post, are those allowed to be posted here or in the Gundam thread? @_@

I'm fine with cross posting between the two. There's a bit of an overlap as far as Gundam is concerned. But to me it seems that the Gundam thread spends a lot more time talking about the anime than Gunpla. This thread is only for the models themselves.

Yeah web shops (that deliver to EU preferably) would be really interesting as the market is pretty small here in Sweden.

My biggest problem getting in to this hobby is probably lack of work space in my home though.

Some web shop links have been to the OP. HLJ/1999/Lucky Model and Hannants all ship to EU.

As far as space goes you don't honestly need a whole lot. Most of my building is done on an A3 size cutting mat. Depends on the size of the kits you want to build too. If you want to go for some huge 1/350 scale Bismark you're going to need a lot of space. Stuff like Gundam, 1/72 or 48 scale airplanes, most cars and tanks don't really need a lot of space to be built.

 

[Dead Man]

F1GAF has made a few very cool formula one car models. I made heaps of planes, mainly 1/48 when I was a kid. I keep wanting to get back into it but money is so tight and good kits seems to be massively expensive these days.

 

[lastplayed]

Nice tank! Did you preshade the edges/lines before painting or was that weathered on after? 1/35 scale I would guess? Haven't built any armor myself. I have a number of Dragon 1/72 armor kits in the stash though.

Thanks! I primed it then applied the base coat of green, then rubbed/brushed on the extra effects such as the panel lines and white interior coat under the turret hatch. I also did a bit of textured rusting/mud along the wheel bays. I don't usually put much weathering on my kits, but this was small and simple enough to give it a go (with help from my bro of course).

Yeah it's this 1/35 Tamiya kit. It's a great scale for the smaller tanks, they're compact and fairly easy to build, but still have a lot of detail. Perfect for anyone who's thinking of getting into the hobby. I also have a Tamiya Panzer III half finished.

 

[luiztfc]

Nice thread!

I'm also starting this as a hobby (I like WW2 planes).

Here's the kit I bought:

What model/brand of craft knife do you recommend?

 

[cajunator]

I used to have this cheap plastic model collection from a subscription called Wheels and Wings. anybody ever heard of that? Those were extremely crappy model kits though and they often broke.

 

[Boogie9IGN]

Damn great OP. I've only ever built a few car models but when the hobby shops around here closed down/stopped carrying cars I kind of forgot about them ): Those store links will help though, thanks!

 

[Wubby]

Getting started 2: Quick note on Safety

There are a lot of sharp, stinky and sticky things involved with scale modelling so some extra precautions should be taken.

1. Work in an area with good ventilation. unless you are just snapping together a gundam model with no paint. Most modeling paints, thinners and glues will have a distinct odor. Not the best of things to be breathing in so just be sure to take a bit of extra precaution. Don't work in a closet with the door closed. And be sure to be careful if you are airbrushing or working with lacquer and enamel paints and thinners as they can be particularly stinky.

Wear a mask when airbrushing and using spray cans. Doesn't have to be an expensive big mask, some cheap deal from the hardware store that blocks paint particles would be good enough to start out with. My only semi-small exception to this is if you have a spray booth that can suck out the particles before you breathe them in. Even then you may want to wear a mask.

2. Be careful with sharp objects. Try to always cut away from your fingers/skin. Keep the caps on the blade when not in use so you don't cut yourself accidentally. Modeling knifes are very sharp. You more than likely will cut yourself at some point. I've done it. Watch out for the blade slipping on something you are trying to cut.

3. Take extra care with open bottles of paint and glue. If you put the cap on the bottle make sure to twist it down and not just leave it loose on top. If you do eventually you will pick up the bottle with a loose top and the paint/glue will spill everywhere. I did this once by accident with a glue bottle. Big sticky mess.

I made myself a paint holder by cutting some holes in a ¥100 store ($1 store) plastic desk organizing tray. The tray holds the bottles so I don't have to worry about tipping them over.

4. Read the labels. Some paints/glues tend to be flammable. Some may cause skin irritation.

5. Use common sense! Doesn't really need to be said but doesn't hurt.

 

[FillerB]

Those pictures do make an excellent illustration for why you should be careful with x-acto knives. I take it making models while drunk is also not advised or does this fall under common sense?

 

[TheMan]

i bought so many models (mostly airplanes and helicopters) as a kid that i never finished. i currently have a kit in my room that i haven't started on, this thread reminded me that now would be a good time.

 

[Wubby]

Nice thread!

I'm also starting this as a hobby (I like WW2 planes).

Here's the kit I bought:

What model/brand of craft knife do you recommend?

Nice Spitfire!

My personal favorite craft knife is the Olfa Standard Art Knife. The smaller blade of the Olfa makes it easier to work with IMO. The standard X-acto #11 is just too big for my personal liking. Plus Olfa steel seems to me to be stronger, less fragile and stays sharper than X-acto.

http://www.olfa.com/ArtKnivesDetail.aspx?C=7&Id=96

I'll post up the rundown of basic tools now.

 

[3N16MA]

I was into this as a kid and always wanted to pick it up again.

 

[Wubby]

Getting started 3: The basic tool kit & supplies

You only really need a few tools to get started. Here's a look at some of the basic tools and you will need. These are really only the essentials for construction. Paints and painting supplies will be another post for another day. A more detailed tool list will be another post as well, though if you really need there are more sources on the net!

*I've taken pictures of a number of different types of the tools. To start off with you really only need one of each or something that can do the same job (see: sprue cutters/nail clipper).

Tools

-Hobby/Design/Art/Craft Knife.

Goes by many names but it's essentially the same thing. There are a variety of different blade types and manufacturers. You can spend a lot for one of these or very little. My first knife was a ¥100 ($1) store special. Worked fine and I actually still use it from time to time.

One of the most commonly used brands is the X-Acto knife and #11 blades. My favorite brand (2nd from top) is from a Japanese company called Olfa. I do believe Olfa blades are also available in the US/Europe. Their 'Standard Art Knife' uses a blade thats a bit smaller than the X-Acto #11 (top). I prefer this smaller blade as I feel it gives me more control. Also the steel Olfa uses is a better quality than X-acto and I find the blades are more durable and stay sharper longer.

If you prefer you can also use a standard retractable box cutter type knife. In England and with some modelers surgical blades and handles from such companies as Swann-Morton are also popular but they can be a bit more expensive.

This will probably be you most used tool so I've listed it first. Useful for cutting, trimming off spare plastic/flash, light line scribing and carving among other things. To protect the blade and the surface you are cutting against I recommend using a self healing cutting mat (the green mat with white line you see in the background of all these pictures) or if you don't have a mat something like a thick card would suffice.

Be careful with your knife as mentioned in the safety section. These are very sharp so you will more than likely end up cutting yourself at some point. Cut away from skin/fingers. Also dispose of the old blades safely.

OLFA Art Knife on Amazon
OLFA Cushion Grip Art Knife on Amazon (larger blade like X-acto but sharper & more durable.

-Sprue Cutters / Nippers.

You will need these to free the parts from the sprue/tree. For this tool you generally get what you pay for. I have a ¥100 store pair and the cut they produce isn't great plus they are a bit thick.

The two pictured are both from Tamiya. These are my most used sprue cutters. I tend to use the larger Modelers Side Cutter pair for thicker parts. The smaller pair is called the Sharp Pointed Side Cutter. It's more expensive and has a much finer tip so it's easier to use when cutting very tiny parts. Also leaves a very fine/straight cut so less clean up will be required.

Be sure to only cut plastic with these. If you need to cut some metal use a different pair. Cutting materials other than plastic will damage the blades.

A very cheap option is a pair of fingernail clippers. They're small so a bit harder to work with but can get the job done till you get a proper sprue cutter.


Tamiya Modeler's Side Cutter on Amazon.
Sharp Pointed Side Cutter on Amazon.
Xuron Professional Sprue Cutter on Amazon. Xuron seems to be popular in US.

-Wet/Dry Sand Paper, Sanding sticks, Files

After you've cut the part from the sprue you will need to clean up the part a bit. Model plastic isn't very hard so unless you need to grind off some very thick bits of plastic sand paper should work fine. Don't bother with anything but Wet/Dry sand paper. Wet/dry is more durable and lasts longer. And as the name implies can be used wet. Wet sanding extends the life of the sand paper since it doesn't clog up as fast. Wet sanding also reduces the amount of dust (important if working with resin).

Generally when working with plastic I hardly if ever use anything lower than P400 grit. If you are just starting out you should just start with a few different grits then add more over time as you see fit. P400, P800 and possibly something higher like a P1200 or so for a smooth surface. I prefer using Tamiya brand paper. I've found it lasts longer than some cheaper brands. But go with what you can get, it all does the same thing.

Files can be used for the same purpose. Some prefer using files to sandpaper. Files tend to have a stronger bite and depending on the length/shape of the file can eat parts of the plastic you didn't intend to cut. On the other hand a raised spot or protruding sprue nub can be dealt with rather quickly with a flat file. Matter of preference for some. They are easy to clean and last a long time if you take care of them.

-Tweezers / Pinsett

Useful for dealing with small parts. Many different shapes, types, materials available. For the first set I recommend something with a fine needle type point.

You don't need to spend a fortune for these. I have and still use a couple of pairs that I bought at 100Yen ($1) stores. I also have some more expensive Tamiya & Hasegawa brand ones. You probably don't even need to buy at all! Just raid the drawers in the bathroom.

-Pin Vise & Drill bits

May not be really necessary right away for a new modeler. Some models may require that you drill out a few holes. Also useful for drilling out port holes in ships, gun barrels and other openings.

Pictured is the small and large Tamiya Pin Vice and drill bit set.

Supplies

-Plastic /Polystyrene Cement

If it comes in a orange/blue tube and has 'Testors' written on it then throw it away. That thick stringy stuff is near impossible to work with. So many better options available now so don't even bother with the tube junk.

Polystyrene cement is the basic glue you will be working with when modeling. Look for the kinds that come in glass jars with a brush built into the cap. This glue works by literally melting the two plastic surfaces together.

The white bottle on the left is Tamiya Cement. The yellow bottle next to it is called Mr. Cement Deluxe from GSI Creos. These glues have a bit of a slower drying time than the two on the right. You can use these for gluing big pieces together or pieces where you need a bit more time to get them positioned. With these two you will apply the glue before putting the parts together.

The green bottle on the right is Tamiya Extra Thin, next to it is Mr. Cement S from GSI Creos. These glues are very thin in viscosity and dry faster than the other two. These glues are also great in that you can apply it after the part is in place! Since it's very thin it works itself into the crack between the pieces then melts them together. Very useful for parts that are hard to position. With this glue you can get the part into the exact position you need, use tape or a clamp to hold it then glue it together with some extra thin.

Most US (And EU I believe) hobby shops should carry the Tamiya glues. GSI Creos (Gunze) may be harder to find. Humbrol has some similar products as does Testors (liquid cement, black bottle. Not the tube!) . I don't have experience with the Humbrol or Testors liquid so I can't say how they compare against Tamiya/GSI.

Tamiya Extra Thin Glue on Amazon.

-Putty

These are usually lacquer based so they can be a bit stinky. Useful for covering up seam lines, small blemishes, unwanted line engravings and so forth. Can thin with a lacquer thinner. Tamiya white putty is pictured. For US/EU I've heard good things about Squadron White/Green putty if you can't get Tamiya and/or it's cheaper.

Mr. Surfacer 500 while not technically a putty (more of a thick primer) is also useful for covering up and filling thin lines. May have trouble finding this though I've heard it's around in some hobby shops in the US/EU.

Not pictured but useful:

-Toothpicks. Can be used to apply small amounts of paint or glue, position small parts, etc.
-Clamps/Clips/Rubber bands. Useful for holding parts together while the glue dries.
-Scissors. Cut decals, masking tape.

 

[PhiLonius]

Awesome thread.

 

[arena08]

Made this a little while ago. Being fairly inexperienced it took me quite some time to finish. I have the sister car still unassembled in the box. I can't bring myself to invest the time into putting it together.

 

[randomwab]

Damn, those Sci-Fi models look rad.

Any recommendation for a beginner (but decent) Sci-Fi model? I would love to try working on one and see how much I enjoyed it.

 

[PBalfredo]

I recently received this model kit of a Char B1 Bis from a buddy of mine for my birthday, since it's one of my favorite tanks to play in World of Tanks. This is my first model ever. I opened it up recently and quickly realized I have no idea what to do. I'd previously glaced through the instructions and the pictograms of the parts fitting into each other made me believe everything should just snap together. A few minutes into trying to put it together, that appears to not be the case. So modelGAF, how do I go about using glue or plastic cement without turning everything into one big sticky mess?

 

[Omiee]

Made this a little while ago. Being fairly inexperienced it took me quite some time to finish. I have the sister car still unassembled in the box. I can't bring myself to invest the time into putting it together.

Did you paint it and stuff?

 

[Leunam]

I've got other stuff on the backburner but this is the one completed model I'm most proud of.

Started with a Johnny Ridden custom Zaku. Used a custom paintjob, added decals, custom bits, custom shield, etc.

I can post pictures of my finished Wing Zero and my work in progress McLaren MP4/5B later.

 

[arena08]

Did you paint it and stuff?

Yup. The instructions suggested you could use mirrored film instead of paint for the chrome. I don't think the silver looks too bad though.

The decals were a little tricky around the side-pods and seat, so much that I got some decal softening fluid for the 2nd car. Every bit of text or sponsor is an individual decal. Some of them are tiny!


Does anyone have any tips for keeping models dust-free?

 

[Wubby]

Damn, those Sci-Fi models look rad.

Any recommendation for a beginner (but decent) Sci-Fi model? I would love to try working on one and see how much I enjoyed it.

Any sci-fi subjects you are particularly interested in? If it's your first time then something like a HG 1/144 or MG if you want something a bit bigger. HG kits just snap together so no glue needed and the plastic on a Gundam kit is already molded in the right colors so you don't need to worry about painting either. After that if you like it you can move on to other kits.

I recently received this model kit of a Char B1 Bis from a buddy of mine for my birthday, since it's one of my favorite tanks to play in World of Tanks. This is my first model ever. I opened it up recently and quickly realized I have no idea what to do. I'd previously glaced through the instructions and the pictograms of the parts fitting into each other made me believe everything should just snap together. A few minutes into trying to put it together, that appears to not be the case. So modelGAF, how do I go about using glue or plastic cement without turning everything into one big sticky mess?

If you look up at my Getting Started: Tools section I go over a few glues. If you are scared about making a big mess then see if you can find some Tamiya Extra Thin glue (green bottle) at a local hobby shop. This glue is easy to work with and doesn't make a mess. With the extra thin glue you just hold the parts together in place then apply the glue to the crack/place where the parts contact. The glue will creep into the space where the parts touch each other and join them together.

I've got other stuff on the backburner but this is the one completed model I'm most proud of.

Started with a Johnny Ridden custom Zaku. Used a custom paintjob, added decals, custom bits, custom shield, etc.

Nice! I do believe I see some Adlers Nest aftermarket bits on that?

Does anyone have any tips for keeping models dust-free?

A glass case. There's no secret weapon here I'm afraid. A fine dusting brush can be used. just be careful when dusting around small parts.

 

[lastplayed]

Yup. The instructions suggested you could use mirrored film instead of paint for the chrome. I don't think the silver looks too bad though.

The decals were a little tricky around the side-pods and seat, so much that I got some decal softening fluid for the 2nd car. Every bit of text or sponsor is an individual decal. Some of them are tiny!


Does anyone have any tips for keeping models dust-free?

Looks pretty good. I've seen an earlier McLaren up close and the silver coat isn't really that reflective, looks like you have it pretty close.

 

[Vilix]

Subscribed.

 

[Razgriz-Specter]

I do tons of models, didn't know they made Ace Combat ones.

what is the battleship in the OT?

 

[lastplayed]

So modelGAF, how do I go about using glue or plastic cement without turning everything into one big sticky mess?

If there's a kit you're afraid of mucking up, you can always buy a cheap kit to practise with. There's a lot of stuff you learn just by doing (as with most things).

And if you like the B1 you should check this out. It was one of the best early war tanks let down by poor planning and tactics.

 

[Wubby]

I do tons of models, didn't know they made Ace Combat ones.

what is the battleship in the OT?

The Ace Combat one actually just came out about three weeks ago. I bought one to add to my stash.

The battleship in the OT is the IJN Kongo (Fujimi 1/700) modeled by Kostas Katseas.

 

[Razgriz-Specter]

The Ace Combat one actually just came out about three weeks ago. I bought one to add to my stash.

The battleship in the OT is the IJN Kongo (Fujimi 1/700) modeled by Kostas Katseas.

Thanks
Have to look into getting that.
the Kongo is also pretty badass looking.

 

[yamo]

[/URL]

I always wanted an awesome underlay like this, i'm usually working on some old newspaper

 

[SUPREME1]

You

Spoiler

cool

fucking nerds.


LMAO.

Spoiler

I wish I had gotten into modeling at some point. Now there is no time or room in the budget. I am cry.

 

[IronRinn]

I just wanted to stop in and say I can't wait to see the cool shiz you all post in this thread. My childhood through my early 20s was littered with hundreds of dollars of kits never quite completed. I love this stuff, but I was always waaaaaay too impatient to see anything through.

 

[Razgriz-Specter]

Any tips for stuff like painting smaller sized humans(especially for stuff like the eyes).
That always gives me trouble.

 

[zchen]

unfortunetly I seem to have way more unbuild ones than built these days. I'm such a hoarder.

 

[Wubby]

Sorry couldn't post much yesterday since I fractured two fingers while skateboarding. -_- Should have stayed home modeling.

I always wanted an awesome underlay like this, i'm usually working on some old newspaper

The one I use is the Tamiya A3 cutting mat:

http://amzn.com/B000K28UKK

you can use any old cutting mat though. They sell small ones at the 100yen shops here so you may be able to find one at a $1 shop.

You

Spoiler

cool

fucking nerds.


LMAO.

Spoiler

I wish I had gotten into modeling at some point. Now there is no time or room in the budget. I am cry.

You don't need a whole lot of time or budget. You can always pick up kits cheap on ebay.

I just wanted to stop in and say I can't wait to see the cool shiz you all post in this thread. My childhood through my early 20s was littered with hundreds of dollars of kits never quite completed. I love this stuff, but I was always waaaaaay too impatient to see anything through.

Even when I wasn't really modelling I kept buying kits. Patience is definitely something you need for this hobby though. And an attention span which is what I lack.

Any tips for stuff like painting smaller sized humans(especially for stuff like the eyes).
That always gives me trouble.

Not so much a figure painter myself. I usually don't include the pilot figures when they are in the kits. But there are a few eye painting videos on Youtube which may help?

http://youtu.be/GIzxQP2XxlY
http://youtu.be/ZXwrDHuGXew

unfortunetly I seem to have way more unbuild ones than built these days. I'm such a hoarder.

I'm with you on that! I'm running out of space to put kits! I need to start building more!

 

[Castor Krieg]

THANK YOU FOR THIS THREAD!!!

Looking to get into building plastic models as a hobby, I got put off Lego due to price, and making puzzles is less enjoyable than this esp. given all the great models you can make.

 

[dejay]

unfortunetly I seem to have way more unbuild ones than built these days. I'm such a hoarder.

Please don't turn out like my dad - he's literally got kits he bought in the '70s still in the box. Mostly German planes, mostly Messerschmitt BF 109Es - of which he has a strange attachment to, despite being English.

 

[dentoomw]

OMG, I've been waiting for a thread like this. Subscribed!

Been modelling for 5 years now since I "returned" to the hobby (ok ok, so the last time before that was with my dad...and it was more like I watched him put a plane together...and I got to glue a few things, but still!) I find it's a very cost effective hobby since 1 kit can take you hours to complete, so real bang for your buck.

My preferred area is 1:48+ scale aircraft. Recently picked up this:

the new 1:32 Tamiya P-51D Mustang, what a beautifully crafted kit!

 

[dentoomw]

Actually, and forgive me if I seem excitable, would scale-model GAF be interested in doing some sort of group build project?

 

[FillerB]

Actually, and forgive me if I seem excitable, would scale-model GAF be interested in doing some sort of group build project?

While I don't consider myself part of scale model-GAF yet, I'm definitely getting interested. But what do you mean with group build project? We all get the same model to build and show off the results to each other and/or provide support during the build?

 

[Castor Krieg]

Can someone explain to me what does this mean:

This item is an injection-plastic kit

http://www.hlj.com/product/FUJ09132

Is it the same as normal plastic model e.g. from Ravell?

 

[dentoomw]

While I don't consider myself part of scale model-GAF yet, I'm definitely getting interested. But what do you mean with group build project? We all get the same model to build and show off the results to each other and/or provide support during the build?

It's a common activity actually in most modelling forums and clubs. Not the same model per se, but more like a theme. For example, we could say "WW2 Allied Aircraft" or perhaps if we were to do Gunpla we could pick a series, Gundam Wing, for example.

Once a theme is selected, participants can pick any model kit that falls within that area and build it. Then after a set build period (4-6 weeks for example) we show the result of our work. During the build period you can post updates and or field questions to the others. It's good fun, allows you to build things that perhaps may not be necessarily the norm for you.

Is it the same as normal plastic model e.g. from Ravell?

Yep.

 

[mrklaw]

would be good to get a decals tips post - eg do you use softening/setting solutions?

And any tips on using sandpaper - doesn't it scar/scratch the plastic?

 

[Escape Goat]

what is this (The middle one) from? He looks pretty rad.