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Retro AV Club Thread 2: Classic Gaming Done Right!

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TeaJay

Member
Possible PVM haul #2 incoming...

Just heard back from another studio. The guys reply to my copy/paste email... "yes,we have many,how many do you want".

More news as it develops

Sounds good! If you ever make a trip to Finland, pack one for me! I kinda want another for tate.
 

KC-Slater

Member
Now I got three of these Blast Cities in my living room and kitchen in various states of repair (one is fully restored) and a whole spare room filled with arcade hardware.

7HEa4tLl.jpg

You're doing God's work.

I kick myself. To. This. Day. That I sold my Naomi Universal. Practically speaking, I had zero room for it in my condo. It literally sat in storage 95% of the time I owned it, but just having it felt amazing. Collecting shit is fucked up. The final, Gift of the Magi-level moment came when I sold the cab in October, but bought a house in March where I could finally fit/enjoy it. Candy Cabs are nearly impossible to come by -- let alone affordably-- where I am at. I don't expect to ever come across one in as great of shape and good of a price as I did my Naomi.
 

bodine1231

Member
You're doing God's work.

I kick myself. To. This. Day. That I sold my Naomi Universal. Practically speaking, I had zero room for it in my condo. It literally sat in storage 95% of the time I owned it, but just having it felt amazing. Collecting shit is fucked up. The final, Gift of the Magi-level moment came when I sold the cab in October, but bought a house in March where I could finally fit/enjoy it. Candy Cabs are nearly impossible to come by -- let alone affordably-- where I am at. I don't expect to ever come across one in as great of shape and good of a price as I did my Naomi.

Yep. You NEVER see them down south. I new if I didn't buy them all I'd regret it later. The guy still had another one with a working monitor but wanted to hang on to it. If he called me tomorrow and offered it at a good price I'd probably end up buying it,lol.
 

IrishNinja

Member
my framemeister is boxed up and in storage or I'd check for you. Gimme a moment I'll check the wiki for the setting.

Wait, you can't change sync level? That's definitely the setting.

I think maybe SYNC_LEVEL can only be adjusted on RGB input.

Tbh i'm afraid of going anywhere near that setting... soon after i got my Framemeister i was fiddling a bit too much... i think i set it to something too far off, the OSD timed out and i had to navigate back through the menus blind to get it back up. For some reason the safety button on the remote didn't want to help either (you have to hold it down but i don't think it cleared out the offending setting).

Have you just tried without the GC profile?

huh...no not really, I will tonight though. it's just something I don't often see elsewhere; again I know I saw it on clockwork knight on saturn so ill try there tonight.
thing is, I switch to d/component and right off the bat, the screens a lot lighter than the RGB setting
 

Laser Wolf

Neo Member
Would anyone be interested in purchasing a version 1.5 (black casing, no audio upgrade) OSSC? I think I'm going to get the version 1.6 with analog to digital audio in order to simplify my setup.

I put it on Craigslist to see if I'd get any bites, but I doubt anyone will know what the heck the thing is. If anyone's interested, then please let me know!
 
Well....... I got to thinking about those FV300/310s and sure enough, found one a couple hours away. 32 in FV300 for $10. I think that's a great size. I honestly can't set it up right now but could possibly rearrange my basement to make it work.... so tempted to just snag it and store it... I'm sick!
 

Fallen92

Member
Thanks! And yeah, I definitely agree that the picture is a huge improvement over my Super Famicom's.

Here's a quick shot of Zelda, although it doesn't really do it justice.

That looks great! Way better than the noisy and blurry picture my SNES outputs. I really need to find me one of these and mod it or get a onechip.
 

Fallen92

Member

bodine1231

Member
First time plugging up the 14" PVM and I'm really liking the size and how it can fit on my desk. Everything looks really sharp too,although this unit needs a cap kit as I'm noticing streaking in dark areas.


ihUpDJ8l.jpg


eGXfoWBl.jpg
 
Well....... I got to thinking about those FV300/310s and sure enough, found one a couple hours away. 32 in FV300 for $10. I think that's a great size. I honestly can't set it up right now but could possibly rearrange my basement to make it work.... so tempted to just snag it and store it... I'm sick!


It's worth noting the 300 does not have the High Voltage Regulator that's responsible for the pvm like image of the 310.
 
It's worth noting the 300 does not have the High Voltage Regulator that's responsible for the pvm like image of the 310.

Right - I actually sent you a PM about this but you might not have received it. Have you ever seen or used a 300? Is it basically the same as any old Trinitron? From what I read of CNET reviews and digging into the tech that is there (with my limited knowledge of such) it looks like it's the highest quality consumer CRT that Sony ever produced -- outside of the 310. What do you think the jump in quality looks like there? I'm seeing one photo of a screen on this ad and I see some nice scanlines even though it's a crappy phone pic. I truly doesn't look on the same level as your 310, though it's hard to compare that one image with the several images and video that you've made available.

I looked for some other comparisons online and on YT but I just can't find very much ... :/
 
Right - I actually sent you a PM about this but you might not have received it. Have you ever seen or used a 300? Is it basically the same as any old Trinitron? From what I read of CNET reviews and digging into the tech that is there (with my limited knowledge of such) it looks like it's the highest quality consumer CRT that Sony ever produced -- outside of the 310. What do you think the jump in quality looks like there? I'm seeing one photo of a screen on this ad and I see some nice scanlines even though it's a crappy phone pic. I truly doesn't look on the same level as your 310, though it's hard to compare that one image with the several images and video that you've made available.

I looked for some other comparisons online and on YT but I just can't find very much ... :/


Huh. I never got a pm, I just checked. It seems every pm I reply to I never get a response either. I think the gaf pm system is borked.

I've never seen a 300 in person but what I found was due to not having the high voltage regulator there is more color bleed and as a result the picture doesn't look as crisp. I really think it's like svideo vs rgb. I belive it's the same screen so you'll get the same scanlines and color. I don't think I've touched on the color but the tv really pops!

I bet when you're playing a game you won't even notice it!
 

Conezays

Member
Thanks for the link I'll save it for when I finally pull the trigger and get a modded mini. In the mean while I still have to finish setting up my new Sony PVM 1354q.

I now know what everyone else means when they say you're tinkering with geometry settings more than playing your games :(

Thank you (and David).

I also have a 1354Q; it's a beautiful monitor and I hope you get your settings figured out.

As for bodine, Saturn in Tate on a PVM is one of life's great pleasures. Enjoy :p I think Battle Garegga is my personal favourite for Tate.

Triforce, if you haven't already used them before, I'd recommend retro_console_accessories in the US. I have a *lot* of scart cables of various brands, but I've never had an issue with theirs across my 7 systems hooked up for RGB.

http://www.ebay.ca/usr/retro_console_accessories?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

Update: Also looks like the store just refreshed its product list (they tend to sell out quickly).
 
Huh. I never got a pm, I just checked. It seems every pm I reply to I never get a response either. I think the gaf pm system is borked.

I've never seen a 300 in person but what I found was due to not having the high voltage regulator there is more color bleed and as a result the picture doesn't look as crisp. I really think it's like svideo vs rgb. I belive it's the same screen so you'll get the same scanlines and color. I don't think I've touched on the color but the tv really pops!

I bet when you're playing a game you won't even notice it!

The PM system is definitely fucked. Wish they would fix it sometime.

I did more searching and came across this thread from shmups -- these guys are diving DEEP here. Some good comparisons of the 300 vs 310. Pics of 300 in the last post (although dark).

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=57256&start=0

I do like some bloom on a CRT. That's the classic look. I feel like using a high-quality input (e.g., I have a 1-chip SNES and the HD Retrovision component cables) and calibration to taste will be able to give me a great middle ground when it comes to scan lines and bloom.

Anyway, the guy is holding the TV for me. I only kinda wish it was a 27 instead of 32, but big ain't a bad thing ... except for moving it. I think if I can get it situated in a proper setup it's going to be a killer big-screen way to play.
 
The PM system is definitely fucked. Wish they would fix it sometime.

I did more searching and came across this thread from shmups -- these guys are diving DEEP here. Some good comparisons of the 300 vs 310. Pics of 300 in the last post (although dark).

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=57256&start=0

I do like some bloom on a CRT. That's the classic look. I feel like using a high-quality input (e.g., I have a 1-chip SNES and the HD Retrovision component cables) and calibration to taste will be able to give me a great middle ground when it comes to scan lines and bloom.

Anyway, the guy is holding the TV for me. I only kinda wish it was a 27 instead of 32, but big ain't a bad thing ... except for moving it. I think if I can get it situated in a proper setup it's going to be a killer big-screen way to play.


Great find and sounds like you've made up your mind!

I love my 32. In fact I wish it was a 36. I also wish it wasn't packed away because I miss it after all this talk!
 
Great find and sounds like you've made up your mind!

I love my 32. In fact I wish it was a 36. I also wish it wasn't packed away because I miss it after all this talk!

Something I asked in the PM: Do you/did you use a SCART to component converter? I think I saw SCART cables in your pic a few pages back...
 
Something I asked in the PM: Do you/did you use a SCART to component converter? I think I saw SCART cables in your pic a few pages back...

I do! I use the generic amazon converter everyone recommends. I had to adjust one of the colors ( there's pots on the board) but otherwise it works great.
 

Justinh

Member
Look, I know you guys are like... talking about other stuff now, more interesting stuff honestly, but if I may I just wanted to say a few things about this thingy that I just got a while ago while it's still fresh in my brain.


This came in the mail a little more than an hour ago, and I've been playing Super C with it and getting a feel on how it... feels in the hands. I've only gotten up to the laser-shower boss level 5 boss so far though, but I think that's enough for first impressions.
PzFFq6c.png

okay... story checks out.
Definitely want to hear impressions. Please post yours or links to any others you find.

Look, yeah the shape looks really weird, but after playing up to where I have so far I really, really like it. With the old rectangle controller (I've never touched a dog-bone, mind...) the tops of my palms, like the balls of my hands I guess you'd call them* would be squished really tightly against the sides of the controller and my lower palms would be pushed in a little bit while mashing the shoot button for bosses.

I recorded my hands earlier while playing and I didn't realize how bad the angle was until later. Here's me fighting the laser-shower boss. You can kinda see my wrists bent and my hands tensed.
NzKEGEC.gif

After each boss with the regular controller, my hands are wiped and I kinda have to let go of the controller to rest after each level.

After just getting this far with the new controller, I've noticed that my hands don't even press up against the controller that much more than when I'm just holding it regularly. The wings prevent me from wanting to squeeze the controller and my hands are so much less fatigued after boss mash sessions.

TL;DR: I'm a wings believer now. The buttons aren't so much "clicky" as they are "clacky." Even the start/select buttons are clacky too, which is a little weird.

*would you call them that? Like the ball of you foot? I dunno, nevermind. "Balls of the hands" sounds weird... like something out of an NC-17 horror movie.
 

Conezays

Member
Look, I know you guys are like... talking about other stuff now, more interesting stuff honestly, but if I may I just wanted to say a few things about this thingy that I just got a while ago while it's still fresh in my brain.



This came in the mail a little more than an hour ago, and I've been playing Super C with it and getting a feel on how it... feels in the hands. I've only gotten up to the laser-shower boss level 5 boss so far though, but I think that's enough for first impressions.
PzFFq6c.png

okay... story checks out.


Look, yeah the shape looks really weird, but after playing up to where I have so far I really, really like it. With the old rectangle controller (I've never touched a dog-bone, mind...) the tops of my palms, like the balls of my hands I guess you'd call them* would be squished really tightly against the sides of the controller and my lower palms would be pushed in a little bit while mashing the shoot button for bosses.

I recorded my hands earlier while playing and I didn't realize how bad the angle was until later. Here's me fighting the laser-shower boss. You can kinda see my wrists bent and my hands tensed.
NzKEGEC.gif

After each boss with the regular controller, my hands are wiped and I kinda have to let go of the controller to rest after each level.

After just getting this far with the new controller, I've noticed that my hands don't even press up against the controller that much more than when I'm just holding it regularly. The wings prevent me from wanting to squeeze the controller and my hands are so much less fatigued after boss mash sessions.

TL;DR: I'm a wings believer now. The buttons aren't so much "clicky" as they are "clacky." Even the start/select buttons are clacky too, which is a little weird.

*would you call them that? Like the ball of you foot? I dunno, nevermind. "Balls of the hands" sounds weird... like something out of an NC-17 horror movie.

Thanks for your impressions. I use a dogbone on my AVS, but overall would you recommend buying it? No issues with lag? Buttons compare well to original Nes controllers with a good d-pad? Unfortunately shipping to Canada is really expensive from RetroUSB.
 

Justinh

Member
Thanks for your impressions. I use a dogbone on my AVS, but overall would you recommend buying it? No issues with lag? Buttons compare well to original Nes controllers with a good d-pad? Unfortunately shipping to Canada is really expensive from RetroUSB.

I don't know what to say about lag, since my AVS is pretty close to the couch. That said, I was just able to dodge Tyson's starting haymakers 4 times in a row, but then I guessed and got whacked(it's so hard not to!). I never know what to do after that part anyways... Using the 240PEE manual lag test, I don't get results different than when I just use a wired controller (Average lag: <2 frames/1.8 and 1.3 last two tests with new controller).

I tend to prefer clicky dpads over non-clicky ones, so this Dpad really fits well with me but I've seen people who are opposite. The buttons feel good. They aren't the light-press clicky kind that you'd find on Razer's Onza controller if you've ever used one of those, but they're still not hard to press, and it doesn't seem to drop inputs or anything. They just feel different since they're not mushy anymore.

I really, really like this controller and I'm happy that I spent the 72 dollars I had to spend to get it shipped here (I paid extra for the Priority shipping), that's a lot of money for an NES controller though and I've never used a dogbone so I can't relate and compare. If someone doesn't grip the regular controller or a dogbone like I did to the point where my hands get sore and exhausted then I just don't know.
 

Rirse

Neo Member
I only had Turbograpx 16 as a kid for about a week before the controller port broke and my parents returned it to Toys R Us and got a SNES (a good choice in the end)...so it worth getting a PC Engine in the year 2017 if you have no real nostalgic for the system? I can get one with RGB modded for about 170 or pay 370 for a PC Duo modded with RGB, but outside of Rondo of Blood, what was even on the PC Duo to justify 200 more? If I got just the PC Engine, I would get a Everdrive for sure, but I dread buying a PC Duo and having the laser die quickly due to the age of the system.

On a similar note, is the Saturn worth getting into as well? Again no nostalgic for the system, but at least the library there looks more interesting then the PC Engine's CDROM collection.
 

EmiPrime

Member
I only had Turbograpx 16 as a kid for about a week before the controller port broke and my parents returned it to Toys R Us and got a SNES (a good choice in the end)...so it worth getting a PC Engine in the year 2017 if you have no real nostalgic for the system? I can get one with RGB modded for about 170 or pay 370 for a PC Duo modded with RGB, but outside of Rondo of Blood, what was even on the PC Duo to justify 200 more? If I got just the PC Engine, I would get a Everdrive for sure, but I dread buying a PC Duo and having the laser die quickly due to the age of the system.

On a similar note, is the Saturn worth getting into as well? Again no nostalgic for the system, but at least the library there looks more interesting then the PC Engine's CDROM collection.

I have no nostalgia for the PC Engine but buying a refurbished, RGB modded Duo a couple of years ago has been one of my better retro purchases.

That said without wanting to start a big fight, getting a Saturn should be a higher priority although both are essential.
 

bodine1231

Member
I only had Turbograpx 16 as a kid for about a week before the controller port broke and my parents returned it to Toys R Us and got a SNES (a good choice in the end)...so it worth getting a PC Engine in the year 2017 if you have no real nostalgic for the system? I can get one with RGB modded for about 170 or pay 370 for a PC Duo modded with RGB, but outside of Rondo of Blood, what was even on the PC Duo to justify 200 more? If I got just the PC Engine, I would get a Everdrive for sure, but I dread buying a PC Duo and having the laser die quickly due to the age of the system.

On a similar note, is the Saturn worth getting into as well? Again no nostalgic for the system, but at least the library there looks more interesting then the PC Engine's CDROM collection.

If you are into shmups then the duo r is one of the best systems ever. If not then it's probably not worth the extra cost.

The Saturn is absolutely worth it. So many great games on that system.

I would get the Saturn first. It's cheaper and it covers so many genres you'll find something to love.
 

Conezays

Member
I don't know what to say about lag, since my AVS is pretty close to the couch. That said, I was just able to dodge Tyson's starting haymakers 4 times in a row, but then I guessed and got whacked(it's so hard not to!). I never know what to do after that part anyways... Using the 240PEE manual lag test, I don't get results different than when I just use a wired controller (Average lag: <2 frames/1.8 and 1.3 last two tests with new controller).

I tend to prefer clicky dpads over non-clicky ones, so this Dpad really fits well with me but I've seen people who are opposite. The buttons feel good. They aren't the light-press clicky kind that you'd find on Razer's Onza controller if you've ever used one of those, but they're still not hard to press, and it doesn't seem to drop inputs or anything. They just feel different since they're not mushy anymore.

I really, really like this controller and I'm happy that I spent the 72 dollars I had to spend to get it shipped here (I paid extra for the Priority shipping), that's a lot of money for an NES controller though and I've never used a dogbone so I can't relate and compare. If someone doesn't grip the regular controller or a dogbone like I did to the point where my hands get sore and exhausted then I just don't know.

Awesome, thanks so much for the detailed impressions. I'll definitely keep an eye on it.
 

Rirse

Neo Member
If you are into shmups then the duo r is one of the best systems ever. If not then it's probably not worth the extra cost.

The Saturn is absolutely worth it. So many great games on that system.

I would get the Saturn first. It's cheaper and it covers so many genres you'll find something to love.

Yeah I'm leaning more toward the Saturn. Is the flash cart for it still in development for it?
 
I only had Turbograpx 16 as a kid for about a week before the controller port broke and my parents returned it to Toys R Us and got a SNES (a good choice in the end)...so it worth getting a PC Engine in the year 2017 if you have no real nostalgic for the system? I can get one with RGB modded for about 170 or pay 370 for a PC Duo modded with RGB, but outside of Rondo of Blood, what was even on the PC Duo to justify 200 more? If I got just the PC Engine, I would get a Everdrive for sure, but I dread buying a PC Duo and having the laser die quickly due to the age of the system.

On a similar note, is the Saturn worth getting into as well? Again no nostalgic for the system, but at least the library there looks more interesting then the PC Engine's CDROM collection.

Just buy every system; you know you want to.

Yeah I'm leaning more toward the Saturn. Is the flash cart for it still in development for it?

Look into PseudoSaturn if you're OK with burned discs.

Also (if you're not aware of it) RetroGAF Unite is a good thread for more general retro questions.
 

Justinh

Member
Is the controller LED supposed to stay on, I got mine a few minutes ago and noticed the same thing?

It seems to stay solid on when the controller is on. The controller will shut off when not used for a few minutes. It also blinks when you do the turbo thing. Mine didn't come with a manual sheet thingy (I didn't like that).

Awesome, thanks so much for the detailed impressions. I'll definitely keep an eye on it.
I hope I could've been helpful is all. I'd be surprised if some retro youtuber doesn't have a youtube video about it in the coming days.
 
Look, I know you guys are like... talking about other stuff now, more interesting stuff honestly, but if I may I just wanted to say a few things about this thingy that I just got a while ago while it's still fresh in my brain.



This came in the mail a little more than an hour ago, and I've been playing Super C with it and getting a feel on how it... feels in the hands. I've only gotten up to the laser-shower boss level 5 boss so far though, but I think that's enough for first impressions.
PzFFq6c.png

okay... story checks out.


Look, yeah the shape looks really weird, but after playing up to where I have so far I really, really like it. With the old rectangle controller (I've never touched a dog-bone, mind...) the tops of my palms, like the balls of my hands I guess you'd call them* would be squished really tightly against the sides of the controller and my lower palms would be pushed in a little bit while mashing the shoot button for bosses.

I recorded my hands earlier while playing and I didn't realize how bad the angle was until later. Here's me fighting the laser-shower boss. You can kinda see my wrists bent and my hands tensed.
NzKEGEC.gif

After each boss with the regular controller, my hands are wiped and I kinda have to let go of the controller to rest after each level.

After just getting this far with the new controller, I've noticed that my hands don't even press up against the controller that much more than when I'm just holding it regularly. The wings prevent me from wanting to squeeze the controller and my hands are so much less fatigued after boss mash sessions.

TL;DR: I'm a wings believer now. The buttons aren't so much "clicky" as they are "clacky." Even the start/select buttons are clacky too, which is a little weird.

*would you call them that? Like the ball of you foot? I dunno, nevermind. "Balls of the hands" sounds weird... like something out of an NC-17 horror movie.

Thanks for this. How does the plastic look and feel? Build quality? In other words, it is built a little better than it looks on first glance?
 

Justinh

Member
Thanks for this. How does the plastic look and feel? Build quality? In other words, it is built a little better than it looks on first glance?

The plastic doesn't feel thin or weak or anything. Like, if I were to grab the sides of a regular NES controller and twist it as hard as I can, it flexes a tiny bit and creaks. The wireless controller feels like it flexes a little less and doesn't creak; it feels pretty solid. It's a tiny bit textured that actually makes it easier to run your finger across than a regular controller, but it doesn't feel slippery if you're holding it or anything.

(day after edit: well... I took mine apart, and getting it back together is weird. If you tighten the screws too much, up-diagonals simply won't work and the dpad is much, much harder to get to register left and right inputs. I've left the screws loose which fixed that problem, but now it flexes more. I'm going to have to mess around with it more, I must've done something else to cause this problem... update: it appears it's related to these two teenie-tiny little washers that I hadn't put back in. Seriously, they're tiny. I took them off so I could completely remove the screws and just forgot to put them back in. There was a third, looked like plastic, but that one just disappeared... when I was trying to put it on a screw. After putting two of the washers in, no more problems with diagonals when I tighten the screws as much as I can without going crazy)

It's using switches like these for everything (again, which feels strange for start/select). I guess this explains the "clacky" rather than "clicky" on how I'd describe the presses.
r83aLfd.jpg

Something I've noticed from playing with it more is that I'm pressing harder than I usually do on the Dpad than a regular controller. This hasn't been a problem in PunchOut or Super C, but I wonder if it can cause issues in something like the Turbo Tunnel where you're pressing rapidly in opposite directions (I don't have BattleToads on NES so I can't try). It did throw me off for a bit the first time I star punched in Punch Out because I'm used to barely have to pressing the start button, but on the new controller you definitely have to press it harder. The first time I tried to star punch, I didn't press hard enough (from muscle memory) and just got punched and was confused for a second.

To better answer this eariler question:
Buttons compare well to original Nes controllers with a good d-pad?
All inputs feel like they require a little more force to activate, but I have no way of quantifying this. This may turn some people off of the controller, and I think if it's going to be an issue for someone, it's probably going to be with the DPad.

also edit: First youtube review it seems has gone up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWHgWBHmNSA
Youtubers name=ecmyersvids (never heard of him) Kinda long (almost 30 minutes)
Jump to him playing Turbo Tunnel with new controller. (18:18 if the link doesn't take you there)
 
Justinh, what does the underside of the controller look like? Does it have the same angled bevel? The way I hold an NES controller makes my my middle fingers sore from the pressure of pressing the bottom edge into them over time.
 

Rirse

Neo Member
What the sure sign you have a one chip in a SNES? I still have my second as a kid (original yellowed and was given to a friend I think) that still has the gray plastic with a slight yellow on the controller plugin slot. I notice some of the signs of it in the past like lag in Soul Blazer, but I tried the code to see the version number in Final Fantasy Mystic Quest and it showing up as CPU ver. 2, PPU1 ver 1, and PPU2 ver 3.
 

Justinh

Member
Justinh, what does the underside of the controller look like? Does it have the same angled bevel? The way I hold an NES controller makes my my middle fingers sore from the pressure of pressing the bottom edge into them over time.

It's just slightly more curved on the edges than the original controller so they don't have as much as a corner, but it's not beveled or anything.

I'm trying to see how you mean: do your middle fingers curl up and make contact with the bottom edge near the corners? If I were to try and grip the original controller with every finger balled up besides the pointers with the middle fingers making heavy contact with the bottom edge and then try to grip the wireless controller the same way, my middle fingers just kinda naturally wrap around the top-inside part of the wings, I don't know if this is how it'd work for you though.

The controller is for the most part the same size as the original controller when it comes to height and thickness, but it is a little wider because of the wings so that may change the way you grip it.

Give me a few minutes and I'll take some pictures comparing the bottom edge of the backsides (lewd) of the controllers and edit it in this post.

Sorry, it's hard to get the edges to show up on camera. This was my second try even...


It's less "sharp"/ less of a corner on the wireless controller, but there is still an edge there and it's not beveled.
 
What the sure sign you have a one chip in a SNES? I still have my second as a kid (original yellowed and was given to a friend I think) that still has the gray plastic with a slight yellow on the controller plugin slot. I notice some of the signs of it in the past like lag in Soul Blazer, but I tried the code to see the version number in Final Fantasy Mystic Quest and it showing up as CPU ver. 2, PPU1 ver 1, and PPU2 ver 3.

The only way to know for sure is to open it up. The tool costs a couple bucks on eBay. One way to come close is look at the serial number on the bottom. If it starts with UN1 or UN2, it's not a 1chip. If it starts with UN3, it might be. If it's yellowed, I'm guess it's not. The 1chips were manufactured late in the lifespan, and better plastic was in use by that time. Again, only way to know for sure is to open it.

And what's this business about lag in Sould Blazer????
 

Rirse

Neo Member
The only way to know for sure is to open it up. The tool costs a couple bucks on eBay. One way to come close is look at the serial number on the bottom. If it starts with UN1 or UN2, it's not a 1chip. If it starts with UN3, it might be. If it's yellowed, I'm guess it's not. The 1chips were manufactured late in the lifespan, and better plastic was in use by that time. Again, only way to know for sure is to open it.

And what's this business about lag in Sould Blazer????

It has UN2 but information on 1 Chip is so hard to find it might not even matter. Soul Blazer title screen lags so the music starts very late when you boot it up.
 
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