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NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
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CreateNowSleepLater
Member
MarkMan said:
Hey no problem man. Believe me, I was happy to have such an about face. It is a bit crazy though isnt it?
Anyone looking for HAPP sticks... lazeeya is taking orders again.
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=169092
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=169092
gutter_trash
Banned
I got a Sanwa and I find the square gate to be bugging me when it an upward slide will cause a up-diagonal jump
are octo gates a good solution for this? whihc type of Octo gate would you recommend for a Sanwa JLF?
are octo gates a good solution for this? whihc type of Octo gate would you recommend for a Sanwa JLF?
viewtiful_dru
Member
1)Man up to a square gate.gutter_trash said:
2) your question was answered a few posts up. (GT-Y)
gutter_trash
Banned
should I change my seating position to get more normalized?
donkey show
Member
Got my Seimitsu parts in from akihabarashop earlier this week for the upcoming mod I want to do to one of my TEs.
So after messing with the templates, which one should I go with...
This?
Or this?
So after messing with the templates, which one should I go with...
This?
Or this?
the androgyne
Member
I like the first one.
You might want to get a single snap-in button, since it's apparantly a pain to fit the button closest to the mounting plate with a screw-in.
You might want to get a single snap-in button, since it's apparantly a pain to fit the button closest to the mounting plate with a screw-in.
donkey show
Member
gokieks said:
Cool, that's my fave as well. As for the stick, I wanted to give the impression that the stick was coming out of the Zaku's eye. But it didn't come out the way I hoped.the androgyne said:
Here's a revision of #1 then.
Better?
I can live with my Seimitsu buttons. I'll just grind down the nut like in the video.
George Claw M.D.
Member
Only the Sanwa screw-ins won't fit. Seimitsu screw-ins should be fine.the androgyne said:
Per Markman:
Markman said:
BlackWaltz
lotta black folks here
My regular FightStick was waiting for me when I got home from class this morning, so I slapped my parts in it(apologies for the crappy quality pic).
Still has the stock stick in it, but I put an octagonal gate on it, I might replace the stick later, but it feels good enough for now. Everything was really easy except I had a hell of a time getting the stock square gate off(had to cut it off with a dremel). Unless I'm missing something(very little stick modding exp., so quite likely =P), the clips just didn't want to budge. Oh well... very happy with it so far!
Still has the stock stick in it, but I put an octagonal gate on it, I might replace the stick later, but it feels good enough for now. Everything was really easy except I had a hell of a time getting the stock square gate off(had to cut it off with a dremel). Unless I'm missing something(very little stick modding exp., so quite likely =P), the clips just didn't want to budge. Oh well... very happy with it so far!
I'd like to hear what people with the standard version of the FightStick end up doing to replace the deck art.
My best thinking so far is this: take image to Kinko's, print out on full-sheet label, temporarily stick a second sheet of paper through the back, have them run it through the laminater, and then just basically stick that onto the face of the joystick.
I don't know how easy it's going to be to pull the current artwork off, nor if one should even do so. A full-sheet label stuck to that wouldn't be the most elegant solution, but it should work, and it should be easy enough to then take off and either return to the original art or replace with new art. One of my concerns, though, is how much the current art would bleed through, depending on how think Kinko's current crop of labels are. (I haven't worked there in a long time, so I don't know.)
My best thinking so far is this: take image to Kinko's, print out on full-sheet label, temporarily stick a second sheet of paper through the back, have them run it through the laminater, and then just basically stick that onto the face of the joystick.
I don't know how easy it's going to be to pull the current artwork off, nor if one should even do so. A full-sheet label stuck to that wouldn't be the most elegant solution, but it should work, and it should be easy enough to then take off and either return to the original art or replace with new art. One of my concerns, though, is how much the current art would bleed through, depending on how think Kinko's current crop of labels are. (I haven't worked there in a long time, so I don't know.)
C/P from the SF4 thread:
Any links for some guides/templates for the HORI Real Arcade Pro 3 stick? I'm going with it over the standard madcatz stick, that's the right choice eh?
I don't have the cash to spend on a tourny stick (will probably end up buying one someday though). Some of your guys art looks awesome
Any links for some guides/templates for the HORI Real Arcade Pro 3 stick? I'm going with it over the standard madcatz stick, that's the right choice eh?
I don't have the cash to spend on a tourny stick (will probably end up buying one someday though). Some of your guys art looks awesome
FlashFlooder
Member
Just ordered a GT-Y restrictor plate and LB-30-N bat top for my TE stick.
Hype now approaching critical levels.
Hype now approaching critical levels.
BlackWaltz
lotta black folks here
drkOne said:
It's a Sanwa LB-35, afaik the Seimitsu bubbletop is the same size so you shouldn't have any trouble switching it out.
BlackWaltz
lotta black folks here
Syril said:
Sanwa GT-Y. It took a bit of work(had to grind the edges of the clips on the stick as they were a tiny bit too large), but it went on.
viewtiful_dru
Member
Real question: why are so many people switching to octagonal gates? Is the square that unwieldy?
FlashFlooder
Member
viewtiful_dru said:
Just what I'm used to from growing up around Euro arcades. It's how I used to play (the shit out of) SF2.
It will switch the joystick from being 4-way to 8-way
BlackWaltz
lotta black folks here
fabs115 said:
LizardLick seems to be pretty popular, and I've never had any trouble ordering from there. As far as what parts, you should be okay with any of the 30mm Seimitsu or Sanwa buttons and 35mm Seimitsu/Sanwa balltops, unless you want a bat top in which case you'd need the adapter(which LL appears to be sold out of atm).
Teknopathetic
Member
Wow. The SF4 HRAP doesn't use quick disconnects? That's pretty fucked up.
Yes Boss! said:My poor-mans TE came in today. Did not realize how poor till I opened it up to switch out the buttons and discovered they were all soldered in place...so now I've got a small project ahead of me for the weekend after I pick up some heat shrink tubing.
WTF???
I hope they use quick disconnects in the next products...
Teknopathetic said:
:lol No shit, disheartening. I've got nice white Sanwa buttons already to go and everything. Not a pro solderer. Would my best option to be solder the Sanwa buttons into the circuit board or just solder the wires directly to the buttons? There seems to be a microchip on the board. Yikes, I might just leave it stock and save my buttons for a future stick.
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