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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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Hazaro said:
You can buy an aftermarket cooler for you 480.
As for case fans I suggest Scythe Kama Flow <1500rpm. Noctua are good. If you want cheaper fans you can buy some low speed Yate Loons

My newest issue of Maximum PC has a "quiet" build, where they install thin soundproof PC material on the inside of the case and take measurements of the results before and after I believe.. Granted they chose parts with silent performance in mind, but it's still an option I'd imagine.

Thank you guys.

What about a new case? I've never really cared about noise really, but since the new rig is serving as a media hub now in a home theatre, it's time to shut its mouth xD
 

scogoth

Member
akmcbroom said:
Your not doubling your chance of data loss, the chance of loosing a drive is the same with 2 or 4, or 1, drives can die. This is what backup's are for.

SSD is faster but also cost ~$1.75 per GB vs ~$.06 per GB for a traditional HD.

At that price I can get 4 1tb drive, run them in raid 10 and still have plenty of money and space left over while having a constant backup.

Actually yes you are not doubling your chances of failure. If one drive fails the whole raid fails and all data is lost.
 

sk3tch

Member
akmcbroom said:
:) have you had RAID 10 problems on consumer mobo's? I've only run it on server hardware

Back in the day...yes, indeed. Perhaps it's a side effect of first generation consumer RAID...but yeah...tons of problems. I'm the same as you...server hardware. Although I invested in a Synology DS411+ last year and I could not be happier. :)

The main reason you want a nice dedicated card is because they have built-in CPU/RAM to increase your RAID performance. Built-in RAID does not - it uses your host systems resources to handle the RAID. That's fine when you are looking at two drives or whatever...but go beyond that and you will see some diminishing returns unless you get a good card with it's own processing power.
 
Hawk269 said:
What is the best RAM to get right now, unless it is the Gskill everyone talks about? I am looking for 2 sticks of 4gb each. I am willing to spend a little more for better ram for the system.

It ultimately depends on how much you want to spend. Assuming your motherboard supports DDR3 RAM almost anything from this list should work. The prices fluctuate depending on the brand, if it is the newest model, voltage, and what speed.

Edit: Also, check to see what voltage of RAM your motherboard supports. My P8P67 Pro supports 1.5v but RAM can range from 1.3v to 1.7v.

I personally bought these as they are the lowest speed my motherboard supports and don't have any extra unnecessary structures to displace heat.
 
sk3tch said:
Buy a nice RAID card for that setup, please! You will thank me later. Onboard RAID or cheap RAID cards will just give you headaches, bro (for anything beyond 2 disks, is what I'm saying).
Will do, thanks once again.
 

Shambles

Member
I'm not a fan of RAID 1 either. If you want a secure backup method run a backup, not a RAID. RAID1 still depends on the RAID controller which can fail and kill your access to the data. Off-site is best, off-computer is also much better. My important stuff is backed up to a secondary drive, a NAS box and a cloud storage service. Less important stuff is just backed up to a secondary drive. RAID0 also won't help improve the terrible access times of HDDs no matter how many you use. You're probably better off not cutting your capacity in half in order to see gains in throughput that won't really improve the snapiness of your system anyways. Of course if you're frequently moving large files it would be worth it.
 

sk3tch

Member
Shambles said:
I'm not a fan of RAID 1 either. If you want a secure backup method run a backup, not a RAID. RAID1 still depends on the RAID controller which can fail and kill your access to the data. Off-site is best, off-computer is also much better. My important stuff is backed up to a secondary drive, a NAS box and a cloud storage service. Less important stuff is just backed up to a secondary drive. RAID0 also won't help improve the terrible access times of HDDs no matter how many you use. You're probably better off not cutting your capacity in half in order to see gains in throughput that won't really improve the snapiness of your system anyways. Of course if you're frequently moving large files it would be worth it.

I hear you - but that also assumes people are using RAID 1 as backup. I'm just using it as insurance - against data loss (and I don't mean critical files, I mean the time it would take me to reinstall Win7, reinstall Steam games, etc.) and downtime. I don't expect any of my files on my PC to last. I have the same strategy as you: PC > NAS > Cloud.
 

Absinthe

Member
sk3tch said:
Back in the day...yes, indeed. Perhaps it's a side effect of first generation consumer RAID...but yeah...tons of problems. I'm the same as you...server hardware. Although I invested in a Synology DS411+ last year and I could not be happier. :)

The main reason you want a nice dedicated card is because they have built-in CPU/RAM to increase your RAID performance. Built-in RAID does not - it uses your host systems resources to handle the RAID. That's fine when you are looking at two drives or whatever...but go beyond that and you will see some diminishing returns unless you get a good card with it's own processing power.

Don't I know this, nothing like having I/O problems with your SANS.

You must love the DS. You running iSCSI? or just as a NAS box?

Would be interesting to test RAID 10 on my p8p67 pro, just to see how it performs.
 

sk3tch

Member
akmcbroom said:
Don't I know this, nothing like having I/O problems with your SANS.

You must love the DS. You running iSCSI? or just as a NAS box?

Would be interesting to test RAID 10 on my p8p67 pro, just to see how it performs.

Nah, just a NAS box. But I basically used this one box to replace a full rack of older servers in my basement. Just nice to consolidate now that I'm getting a bit older and not having as much time to tinker. :)

I imagine RAID10 would probably perform pretty well considering all the power the Sandy Bridge i5/i7s have...but it'd still be better to have that dedicated card. Especially if you don't want your RAID cutting into your FPS results. :)
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
RAID is useful for some applications, but no amount of read and write speed can come close to the access times of an SSD.
 

sk3tch

Member
Hazaro said:
RAID is useful for some applications, but no amount of read and write speed can come close to the access times of an SSD.

Yeah, as things shake out with the latest round of SSDs I will probably pick one up for my OS drive (it is what I am doing with my MacBook Pro). I think we'll have mechanical hard drives in RAID for quite some time. After all -

Redundant
Array of
Inexpensive
Disks

SSD doesn't apply. :)
 
OKay, so here is my computer so far I'm building for a friend. I'm always paranoid I've got something that doesn't fit/work together. Really, my biggest worry is the 500W power supply. Will that be enough? I haven't settled on a graphics card yet, but it won't be anything crazy (no SLI or Crossfire). I don't want to spend over $150 more. Maybe something like a 5770.

NewCart.png
 

scogoth

Member
Vincent Alexander said:
OKay, so here is my computer so far I'm building for a friend. I'm always paranoid I've got something that doesn't fit/work together. Really, my biggest worry is the 500W power supply. Will that be enough? I haven't settled on a graphics card yet, but it won't be anything crazy (no SLI or Crossfire). I don't want to spend over $150 more. Maybe something like a 5770.



People going to say get the Samsung F3 Spinpoint instead of the WD Caviar Black.

Graphics wise is this for gaming?
 
scogoth said:
People going to say get the Samsung F3 Spinpoint instead of the Cavier Black.

Graphics wise is this for gaming?
My friend says it's main focus isn't for gaming, but would like if it could on the side. He doesn't play FPS too much---likes RTS games and he'll want to play Diablo 3. He wants to build a PC so he can use some program called Bible Logos Software, which he claims can take up a lot of memory like Adobe Photoshop. However, I highly doubt that. I said screw it though and decided to take his word for it.
 

kamspy

Member
Vincent Alexander said:
OKay, so here is my computer so far I'm building for a friend. I'm always paranoid I've got something that doesn't fit/work together. Really, my biggest worry is the 500W power supply. Will that be enough? I haven't settled on a graphics card yet, but it won't be anything crazy (no SLI or Crossfire). I don't want to spend over $150 more. Maybe something like a 5770.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg75/Seither2k/NewCart.pngMG][/QUOTE]


Pony up for a better power supply.
 
Vincent Alexander said:
OKay, so here is my computer so far I'm building for a friend. I'm always paranoid I've got something that doesn't fit/work together. Really, my biggest worry is the 500W power supply. Will that be enough? I haven't settled on a graphics card yet, but it won't be anything crazy (no SLI or Crossfire). I don't want to spend over $150 more. Maybe something like a 5770.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg75/Seither2k/NewCart.png
Buying a 5770 over a GTX 460 is a bit like buying a GTS 450 over a 5770. You don't really want to do either. 768MB 460s can be had for cheap if you look around. A non-SE 1GB 460 would be preferable. As would an HD 6850. You should be able to find sales and rebates on all three that would put them within your budget range.

Generally, you don't want to buy a case with a PSU included. There are exceptions, but in most cases, the PSUs are low grade, or mid-range at best. You can cut the motherboard down to a GD55 or lower, switch the HDD to a $60 Samsung F3 1TB, or drop to 4GB. Any of those money saving measures would be preferable to cutting corners on your PSU, and buying a case with poor airflow.
 
·feist· said:
Thanks. Those both look great. I especially love the first one. I'll forward them on to my friend, see which he prefers, then post the updated rig tomorrow. Thanks again.

Kevin said:
Can you SLI a Geforce 590 with a Geforce 480?

Nope. Have to be same exact cards.
 
I'm having a little problem with Realtek HD Audio Manager. If I plug in the headphone in the rear speaker out jack I can't retask it to headphones but if I plug it in to the Front speaker out I can. I was thinking maybe it's the motherboard but when I plug it in it detects it but I can't change anything except the front speaker jack in Audio Manager. My motherboard is the Asus P8P67, anyone else with this motherboard having this problem?
 
Since some are still confusing LGA 2011 with Ivy Bridge for whatever reason, here's another supposedly legit leaked slide that may help clarify things a bit more.

Intel ® X79 Express Chipset & Desktop Chipset: Roadmap

f1jTR.jpg
PrRvX.jpg


So instead of X58 giving way to "X68," or "X69," looks like it may be "X79." Assuming these are real, they fall in line with expectations and known/leaked/rumored specs. The heavy SATA and SAS slant is perfect for the type of workstations and servers that some of these will end up in.

With triple-channel nowhere to be found with any of the 6- and 8-core engineering samples, we'll just have to see which boards end up with 8 DIMM quad, and which get 4 DIMM quad.



Vincent Alexander said:
Thanks. Those both look great. I especially love the first one. I'll forward them on to my friend, see which he prefers, then post the updated rig tomorrow. Thanks again.
You're welcome. You should be able to pick up a solid 500w PSU for $40-70 or so. It'd be good to get an 80 Plus Bronze rated unit, so that'll likely be closer to the $70 end of the spectrum. For roughly $20-40 more than that original Rosewill case with included PSU, you'll get much better options separately. He can always make up the difference by looking into any of the cost cuts I mentioned before.

Any of us can assist you with picking a PSU, if you need help getting that sorted.
 

sk3tch

Member
Vincent Alexander - if he's not going to extreme overclock or do any crazy tweaking, look at some of the other MSI motherboards that are around $30 cheaper (but have the same features, in general) - such as the P67A-GD55 or P67A-GD53 (I have this one and love it - $150). It isn't much - but it's more money you can put towards a quality PSU/case (which are the parts that your friend is most likely to re-use in future builds). You can still OC very well with these boards, but they just lack a few bells/whistles (a couple fewer SATA ports, no firewire, etc.).
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Gvaz said:
I didn't see it in that list but how loud is a 4890? That's what I have. It's a decent loudness but I wouldn't say it's too bad.

4890 is fairly loud. Probably 48-49 dbish. That is, unless you have the vapor cooler from Sapphire.

Stock AMD and nVidia coolers were really, really bad during that generation. They're getting better...
 

sk3tch

Member
JackEtc said:
Bumping my question about my problems when overclocking.

That's a tough one to diagnose via forum posts. I have had the "no video" problem occur and usually it's due to an unhappy video card (although sometimes it's as easy as removing the DVI cable and re-connecting). I would run your setup at stock for a while and see if it occurs. Remember - you're just starting out with your new PC. Feel free to enjoy it and go crazy and OC right away...but if you're not comfortable or having problems, keep it stock. You can learn as you go and when you feel more comfortable you can try to manually overclock using the BIOS. Read up online and watch some videos, etc. so you can make more educated OC attempts.
 

Cheech

Member
Hawk269 said:
Thanks for the replies folks, I need to decide what to do now.

Another question now....

I had my GF order the Ram for me, told her what to get which is the GSkill that most recommend, but she never ordered it. Which is kind of good since i was not sure about what wanted.

What is the best RAM to get right now, unless it is the Gskill everyone talks about? I am looking for 2 sticks of 4gb each. I am willing to spend a little more for better ram for the system.

Again, much appreciation for all the input.

Personally, I just buy good Corsair RAM. I am not sure who makes the G.Skill stuff.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
The G.Skill ram is recommended because it's cheap, and from a reputable manufacturer. Nothing wrong with it at all. They're one of the best rated ram manufacturers out there.
 

bee

Member
new nvidia drivers out 270.51

small increase in performance in dragon age 2 if anyone plays that with nvidia :p

impressed with the gains in 3D vision surround, hoping to try it real soon

http://www.nvidia.co.uk/object/win7-winvista-64bit-270.51-beta-driver-uk.html

Performance

Increases performance for GeForce 400 Series and 500 Series GPUs in several PC games vs. v266.58 WHQL drivers. The following are examples of some of the most significant improvements measured on Windows 7. Results will vary depending on your GPU and system configuration:

GeForce GTX 580:

Up to 516% in Dragon Age 2 (SLI 2560x1600 8xAA/16xAF Very High, SSAO on)
Up to 326% in Dragon Age 2 (1920x1200 8xAA/16xAF Very High, SSAO on)
Up to 11% in Just Cause 2 (1920x1200 8xAA/16xAF, Concrete Jungle)
Up to 11% in Just Cause 2 (SLI 2560x1600 8xAA/16xAF, Concrete Jungle)
Up to 7% in Civilization V (1920x1200 4xAA/16xAF, Max settings)
Up to 6% in Far Cry 2 (SLI 2560x1600 8xAA/16xAF, Max settings)
Up to 5% in Civilization V (SLI 1920x1200 8xAA/16xAF, Max settings)
Up to 5% in Left 4 Dead 2 (1920x1200 noAA/AF, Outdoor)
Up to 5% in Left 4 Dead 2 (SLI 2560x1600 4xAA/16xAF, Outdoor)
Up to 4% in H.A.W.X. 2 (SLI 1920x1200 8xAA/16xAF, Max settings)
Up to 4% in Mafia 2 (SLI 2560x1600 AA on/16xAF, PhysX = High)

GeForce GTX 560 Ti:

Up to 461% in Dragon Age 2 (SLI 1920x1200 8xAA/16xAF, Very High)
Up to 241% in Dragon Age 2 (1920x1200 4xAA/16xAF, Very High)
Up to 19% in Just Cause 2 (SLI 2560x1600 8xAA/16xAF, Concrete Jungle)
Up to 13% in Just Cause 2 (1920x1200 4xAA/16xAF, Concrete Jungle)
Up to 6% in Far Cry 2 (SLI 2560x1600 8xAA/16xAF, Max settings)
Up to 5% in Call of Duty: Black Ops (1920x1200 noAA/AF, Jungle Map)
Up to 5% in H.A.W.X. 2 (SLI 1920x1200 4xAA/16xAF, Max settings)
Up to 4% in Call of Duty: Black Ops (SLI 2560x1600 4xAA/16xAF, Jungle Map)
Up to 4% in Civilization V (1920x1200 noAA/AF, Max settings)
Up to 4% in Left 4 Dead 2 (SLI 1920x1200 4xAA/16xAF, Outdoor)
Up to 4% in Metro 2033 (SLI 1920x1200 4xAA/16xAF, PhysX on)

NVIDIA Update

This is a new feature in Release 270 and later drivers. NVIDIA Update keeps your PC up-to-date with the latest NVIDIA drivers by notifying you when a new driver is available and directing you to the driver on www.nvidia.com. When you install a Release 270 or later GeForce driver from www.nvidia.com, you will be presented with the option to install NVIDIA Update. Click here to learn more about NVIDIA Update.

NVIDIA 3D Vision

With Release 270 drivers, the 3D Vision Controller driver is now included with all GPU driver installations. This driver package includes v270.47 3D Vision Controller driver. Users are no longer required to install a separate 3D Vision Controller driver or CD driver. For more information, please view this knowledgebase article for more information.
New features added to 3D Vision window mode
Adds support for HDMI 1.4 3D TVs when using 3DTV Play software, including DirectX 9 games, Google Earth, and 3DVisionLive.com.
3D Vision window mode now works with Windows Aero enabled
New NVIDIA Control Panel option to toggle 3D Vision window mode on or off.
Performance improvements
DirectX 9 applications when using NVIDIA SLI
Better performance using the in-game crosshair for Half-life 2, Left4Dead, and Left4Dead2
Adds support for new 3D Vision Desktop LCD monitors: Tongfang LM2230W
Adds support for new 3D Vision projectors: Acer X1261P, Acer X1261-3D, DepthQ HDs3D-1, NEC NP-V300X, Sanyo PDG-DXL2000
Fixed problem with DLP HDTVs and SLI which caused problems with eye synchronization
Add support for new 3D Vision All In One PCs: Acer Aspire Z5673, Lenovo B520
Added the following 3D Vision game profiles:
Alice Madness Returns
Crysis 2 (including multi-player demo)
Dead Space 2
DeathSpank
Dragon Age II
Duke Nukem Forever
Dungeon Defenders
Dungeon Siege III
Fable III
Faxion Online
F.3.A.R.
Final Fantasy XIV
Homefront (DirectX 9 and DirectX 10)
Lego Universe
Need for Speed World
Portal 2
Richard Burns Rally
Rift
Section 8: Prejudice
Shift 2 Unleashed
Shogun 2: Total War
Star Wars: Clone Wars Adventures
Test Drive Unlimited 2
The Sims Medieval
Updated the following 3D Vision game profiles
MX vs. ATV Reflex
Monster Hunter Frontier Benchmark

NVIDIA Surround

Adds 3D Vision Surround support when using 3D Vision monitors with built-in IR emitters
Increase performance for GeForce 200 series, 400 Series and 500 Series GPUs in several DirectX 9 PC games vs. the latest Release 265 drivers. The following are examples of some of the most significant improvements measured on Windows 7 64-bit. Results will vary depending on your GPU and system configuration.

GeForce GTX 480 SLI in 3D Vision Surround:

Up to 109% in Aliens vs. Predator (5760x1080 1xAA / 16xAF)
Up to 107% in Burnout Paradise (5760x1080 2xAA / 16xAF)
Up to 267% in Call of Duty Black Ops (5760x1080 2xAA / 16xAF)
Up to 177% in Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 2 (5760x1080 2xAA / 16xAF)
Up to 15% in Far Cry 2 DirectX 9 (5760x1080 2xAA / 16xAF)
Up to 250% in Left4Dead2 (5760x1080 2xAA / 16xAF)
Up to 159% in Need for Speed Shift 2 (5760x1080 2xAA / 16xAF)
 

AEREC

Member
I just built this rig recently:

Cooler Master HAF 932 Case

Corsair 750TX PSU

i7-870 @ 2.9GHz with a Thermaltake Frio Heatsink

EVGA P55 SLI motherboard

EVGA GTX 460 1GB

The rest are just leftover parts I had around such as the HDD's and the memory which is some old samsung memory I had laying around which Im not sure what speed it is but here is the CPU-Z page:

cpu-1.jpg



Later this year I will probably look to upgrade the memory and the video to the:

GTX 590

or something similar and I just want to make sure there is nothing that would be a bottleneck for it in terms of the CPU or memory and Im not too sure how the bus speeds work and should be set between the CPU and Memory.
 

sk3tch

Member
So after all of my hooting and hollering yesterday about my MSI 6950 > Sparkle 6970 bios flash working (using these instructions: linky)...I had graphical corruption after an hour or so (the small "sparkles" throughout the screen) while just browsing and such (interestingly enough, not while gaming). So I rolled back and updated a few times until I found a BIOS that worked. I don't know if I was getting weird BIOS or what (I got them from techpowerup.com) but until I grabbed an ASUS 6950 shader unlock bios I had nothing but problems (unless I was stock 6950). So far, so good with this one - all morning and no sparkles and I'm overclocked to 860/1350 (stock 6970 is 880/1375). Which is bizarre - because the 6970 bios I was clocked down to stock 6950 (800/1250) and the sparkles still came. Must be something with that 6970 bios my card doesn't like.

To make this all even stranger, when I first received the card I only did the 6950 shader unlocked bios (using these instructions: linky)...but that was giving me sparkles. So it must have been this ASUS 6950 shader unlocked bios that was "magic" for me.

Anyway, I've hosted this bios file just in case you guys wanna give it a whirl. I am loving it especially since you can use ASUS SmartDoctor with Vcore adjustments and "Overclocking range enhancement" - aka higher overclock capabilities (the other ones limit you).

asus_6950_unlocked_shaders.bin (128 KB)

I had to use atiwinflash via the command-line (as administrator) to successfully implement it ("atiwinflash -unlockrom 0", then "atiwinflash -f -p 0 asus_6950_unlocked_shaders.bin").

I'll update if anything goes wonky...but I've never had it this solid before (EDIT: other than stock :-D).
 

Lime

Member
You know, sk3tch, you can just extract the bios from your own card and unlock the shaders on it. People on techpowerup has made a script that unlocks the shaders on your bios. Simply:

Script: http://www.techpowerup.com/wizzard/Mod_BIOS_HD_6950.zip

1. extract your bios via atiflash
2. copy the now extracted original bios and rename it "modded" or something (the script tells you what you have to call it)
3. run the script and unlock the shaders on your copied bios
4. flash your gpu with the unlocked shaders original bios.

But if your ASUS bios works properly, you might not need the above.
 

Askani

Member
My last computer was given to me, so I'm happy for what I have. That being said, I was choking in WoW last night. Bad. Like, less than 1 FPS in BWD.

Win XP, 2 gig of RAM, AMD 4600 Dual Core, ect. I know...I know...old tech. Anyway, I had an 8600. It was causing my PC to lock up and randomly restart so I had to switch back to my still older x1900xt. It's terribad. Since the best tech 2006 has to offer isn't really cutting it anymore, I need a stop gap on a budget solution to let me play WoW for the meantime until I can build something real later this year.

On my PC forum, someone is selling an XFX HD5770 for about $90-$100. I'm thinking of jumping on it. WoW is probably the most intensive game I play so, I don't need a something top end right now. Just trying to bide my time until I can build my Diablo 3 PC this summer.

I guess...I don't know, good price? I'm assuming yes. Just leery about buying used PC gear from a stranger on the internet. He does have all positive Heatware.
 

sk3tch

Member
Lime said:
You know, sk3tch, you can just extract the bios from your own card and unlock the shaders on it. People on techpowerup has made a script that unlocks the shaders on your bios. Simply:

Script: http://www.techpowerup.com/wizzard/Mod_BIOS_HD_6950.zip

1. extract your bios via atiflash
2. copy the now extracted original bios and rename it "modded" or something (the script tells you what you have to call it)
3. run the script and unlock the shaders on your copied bios
4. flash your gpu with the unlocked shaders original bios.

But if your ASUS bios works properly, you might not need the above.

Believe it or not, I tried that, too - I used my MSI bios and unlocked just the shaders...sparkle up. It makes no sense. I just ran Furmark for 15 minutes (again) right after my post above and I'm still sparkle free. I wonder if it's the CCC AMD Overdrive setting of 20% under "Power Control" that did it? Because before I flashed, rebooted, installed ASUS SmartDoctor, rebooted, uninstalled ASUS SmartDoctor (after setting "Overclocking range enhancement" to unlock it in the Registry for CCC AMD Overdrive), and then proceeded to use CCC AMD Overdrive to manage the OC/etc. Now that I've stuck with ASUS SmartDoctor I've been rollin' smoooth. I am not going to argue. Perhaps my $250 card will go belly up tomorrow...heh. The risks you take to get an extra 5-10% performance. ;)
 
people who know better, tell me is this a decent setup:

ASUS S1155 P8H67-M PRO B3
Intel Core I7-2600
Club 3D GTX 560 (Club 3D? means it's 3D compatible? not sure if want..)
2 x 4GB of DDR3 RAM
Chieftec PSU 750W
2 x Nexus Case Fan 120mm Real Silent

also, are SSDs benefits enough to make it a sensible addition? not sure if need one.. but would really like everything to work a bit faster.
 

LegoDad

Member
Alright, when replacing the CPU cooler should I take the entire motherboard out, or just do it in case, since the backside has an opening to screw the cooler in.

Just looking for recommendations from past tries from others.
 

CrankyJay

Banned
astroturfing said:
people who know better, tell me is this a decent setup:

ASUS S1155 P8H67-M PRO B3
Intel Core I7-2600
Club 3D GTX 560 (Club 3D? means it's 3D compatible? not sure if want..)
2 x 4GB of DDR3 RAM
Chieftec PSU 750W
2 x Nexus Case Fan 120mm Real Silent

also, are SSDs benefits enough to make it a sensible addition? not sure if need one.. but would really like everything to work a bit faster.

Not sure, but isn't the M Pro a mini-ATX mobo? Do you have a case that will accomodate this?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Shambles said:
I'm not a fan of RAID 1 either. If you want a secure backup method run a backup, not a RAID. RAID1 still depends on the RAID controller which can fail and kill your access to the data. Off-site is best, off-computer is also much better. My important stuff is backed up to a secondary drive, a NAS box and a cloud storage service. Less important stuff is just backed up to a secondary drive. RAID0 also won't help improve the terrible access times of HDDs no matter how many you use. You're probably better off not cutting your capacity in half in order to see gains in throughput that won't really improve the snapiness of your system anyways. Of course if you're frequently moving large files it would be worth it.
Linux RAID5. Everything else is just hot air. If folks are serious about getting a real network in their house, and protecting their data, they should seriously look at running a fileserver with Linux. It's not as scary as it sounds.
 

sk3tch

Member
mkenyon said:
Linux RAID5. Everything else is just hot air. If folks are serious about getting a real network in their house, and protecting their data, they should seriously look at running a fileserver with Linux. It's not as scary as it sounds.

It isn't like a Linux RAID system is a bulletproof solution. There are a lot of factors that go into making a reliable RAID setup - including the build of the device itself. You can certainly throw Linux on an old box and toss a bunch of drives in there...but if there isn't good enough airflow, clean, reliable power, etc. - it's crap. Best to build a purpose-based box or buy an off the shelf system such as a well-reviewed NAS.

RAID 5 is not the pinnacle of reliability, either. It's just a balance between reliability and disk space - not as reliable as RAID 1 or as fast as RAID 0, but a nice compromise. Especially when you an do RAID 5 plus hot spare.
 

irishcow

Member
Does anyone have any experience with the Silverstone Raven RV02? Care to compare it with the Haf 932 or o0ther cases of similar price ($160-180)? I'm looking to build a new gaming PC and value performance AND quiet.
 

JackEtc

Member
sk3tch said:
That's a tough one to diagnose via forum posts. I have had the "no video" problem occur and usually it's due to an unhappy video card (although sometimes it's as easy as removing the DVI cable and re-connecting). I would run your setup at stock for a while and see if it occurs. Remember - you're just starting out with your new PC. Feel free to enjoy it and go crazy and OC right away...but if you're not comfortable or having problems, keep it stock. You can learn as you go and when you feel more comfortable you can try to manually overclock using the BIOS. Read up online and watch some videos, etc. so you can make more educated OC attempts.
I've had the computer running for about two months, but the GPU (which isn't greatest) was about 6 months old. I have a feeling it is graphics card, though. Everything else on that computer is pretty high end.

I'm going to feel really dumb if I just need to unplug and plug in my DVI cable again....

I think I do need to learn more about manual BIOS overclocking though.
 

Kyaw

Member
caliblue15 said:
Alright, when replacing the CPU cooler should I take the entire motherboard out, or just do it in case, since the backside has an opening to screw the cooler in.

Just looking for recommendations from past tries from others.

It's probably easier to take it out and do it that way. Which cooler is it?
 
astroturfing said:
people who know better, tell me is this a decent setup:

ASUS S1155 P8H67-M PRO B3
Intel Core I7-2600
Club 3D GTX 560 (Club 3D? means it's 3D compatible? not sure if want..)
2 x 4GB of DDR3 RAM
Chieftec PSU 750W
2 x Nexus Case Fan 120mm Real Silent

also, are SSDs benefits enough to make it a sensible addition? not sure if need one.. but would really like everything to work a bit faster.

Unless you want a mini-ATX motherboard pick the PRO without the M. :)
 
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