• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

Status
Not open for further replies.
I

InternHertz

Member
Let's assume this is what I want to do:

IMG_1362.jpg

(source is failwheeldrive's topic on the linustechtips forums)

That means a 240 rad on the TOP and one on the FRONT of the case. That also means a normal fan in the BACK and no fan on the BOTTOM (there's a grid there though).

How should I set up my fans to achieve positive pressure in there? I first thought about this:
mIILQCl.jpg

But I worry about heat in the case though because of two radiator intakes. Should I?
Some people also told me they'd use the rear fan as intake, and the top fans as exhaust while keeping the front ones as intake.

What say you, GAF?
Thanks for any input.
 
R

riflen

Member
InternHertz said:
That means a 240 rad on the TOP and one on the FRONT of the case. That also means a normal fan in the BACK and no fan on the BOTTOM (there's a grid there though).

How should I set up my fans to achieve positive pressure in there? I first thought about this:
mIILQCl.jpg

But I worry about heat in the case though because of two radiator intakes. Should I?
Some people also told me they'd use the rear fan as intake, and the top fans as exhaust while keeping the front ones as intake.

What say you, GAF?
Thanks for any input.
Click to expand...

This works for me. I would not recommend pulling hot air through a radiator. I have my system set up similarly to your diagram. PSU fan will intake and the unit will exhaust through the rear grill of the PSU, so its intake fan should be on the floor of the case.
I also have an intake fan on the floor of the case, but it's barely needed and I run it as low rpm as possible.
The only exhaust I have is at the top/rear of the case.

InternHertz said:
Thanks for this answer! Should I worry if I can't fit a fan on the bottom as intake because of the PSU cables?
Click to expand...

Try harder! Cables should be sent behind the motherboard tray. But, as I say, that floor intake doesn't do too much.
 
V

vandalhearts

Member
Guys what do you think about this build?
I would like to stay under or around €1000, so if you have any suggestion on how to improve this build, you're more than welcome. I tried to use pc part picker but it doesn't enlist all the shops, just amazon.
I'm only interested in a gaming build, i currently have a 16:10 (1680x1050) monitor but i would like to buy a 16:9 1080p monitor very soon (if you have suggestions about this also, please go ahead).

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz (EUR 218.49 @ Amazon.it)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212EVO (EUR 28.70 @ Amazon.it)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 5 Socket 1150, Z97, DDR3, S-ATA 600, ATX (EUR 144.53 @ Amazon.it)
Memory: HyperX Fury Memory Black, 1866 MHz (2 x 4GB) DDR3 (EUR 85.43 @ Amazon.it)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (EUR 65.34 @ Amazon.it)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (EUR 53.99 @ amazon.it)
Video Card: GIGABYTE - GeForce GTX 970 4 GB GDDR5 Pci-E Dual-link DVI-I / DVI-D / HDMI / 3 x DisplayPort G1 GAMING (EUR 379.99 @ Eprice.it)
Case: Corsair Carbide 200R Mid Tower Black (EUR 57.50 @ Amazon.it)
Power Supply: SeasonicM12-II 520 EVO (EUR 66.67 @ Amazon.it)

Total: EUR 1100.67
 
appaws

appaws

Banned
vandalhearts said:
Guys what do you think about this build?
I would like to stay under or around €1000, so if you have any suggestion on how to improve this build, you're more than welcome. I tried to use pc part picker but it doesn't enlist all the shops, just amazon.
I'm only interested in a gaming build, i currently have a 16:10 (1680x1050) monitor but i would like to buy a 16:9 1080p monitor very soon (if you have suggestions about this also, please go ahead).

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz (EUR 218.49 @ Amazon.it)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212EVO (EUR 28.70 @ Amazon.it)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 5 Socket 1150, Z97, DDR3, S-ATA 600, ATX (EUR 144.53 @ Amazon.it)
Memory: HyperX Fury Memory Black, 1866 MHz (2 x 4GB) DDR3 (EUR 85.43 @ Amazon.it)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (EUR 65.34 @ Amazon.it)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (EUR 53.99 @ amazon.it)
Video Card: GIGABYTE - GeForce GTX 970 4 GB GDDR5 Pci-E Dual-link DVI-I / DVI-D / HDMI / 3 x DisplayPort G1 GAMING (EUR 379.99 @ Eprice.it)
Case: Corsair Carbide 200R Mid Tower Black (EUR 57.50 @ Amazon.it)
Power Supply: SeasonicM12-II 520 EVO (EUR 66.67 @ Amazon.it)

Total: EUR 1100.67
Click to expand...

I think that is very good. If you can squeeze out a few more euros, a bigger SSD might be nice. It starts to suck transferring stuff around all the time between the SSD and HDD.
 
M

_machine

Member
RGM79 said:
Well, you may want to wait before buying. Depending on when you buy a new computer, you could be buying DDR4 RAM instead if you go with Intel's X99 motherboard, and possibly for Z170 Skylake as well. If you will hold off for an entire year or more, then maybe some DDR3 memory isn't too bad to buy now.

You could buy that 16GB of DDR3-2400 and replace your current RAM with it. You will need to enable XMP or a similar option in the BIOS menu so it will run at 2400MHz.
Click to expand...
Hmm that's true, but I kinda need that memory upgrade now and I will probably hold off for at least a year. Since the DDR3-2400 is pretty much the same price as the lower clock speeds I'll probably pick that up even though the difference probably isn't noticeable at all.
 
clem84

clem84

Gold Member
I have a question about windows product keys that I'm hoping somebody here will be able to answer. I googled for this but couldn't find any answers.

You know how when you activate windows for the first time, the product key is paired with your motherboard serial number and this pair of values is stored in an MS database somewhere right? Starting from that moment, you'll always be able to install windows on the same PC but not on any other right? (well actually installing it would work but you won't be able to activate it).

Now, is it ok to give your product key away to somebody? I'm thinking, since it's already been used, what's the harm? Worse that will happen is that the installation will work but the activation will fail because the code has already been used right?

I'm asking because I put together this PC I was selling. I sold it with a legit copy of windows 8. While the guy was here, he asked me if I had windows 7. I said yes. Then he asked if I could make a copy for him to use on his other PC. I said sure. I made a copy of the disk but I didn't give him my product key. I was uncertain if it was wise to do so or not. Now, he has my phone number so he might call at some point to ask for the key. Is it ok to just give it to him?
 
R

RGM79

Member
vandalhearts said:
Guys what do you think about this build?
I would like to stay under or around €1000, so if you have any suggestion on how to improve this build, you're more than welcome. I tried to use pc part picker but it doesn't enlist all the shops, just amazon.
I'm only interested in a gaming build, i currently have a 16:10 (1680x1050) monitor but i would like to buy a 16:9 1080p monitor very soon (if you have suggestions about this also, please go ahead).

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz (EUR 218.49 @ Amazon.it)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212EVO (EUR 28.70 @ Amazon.it)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 5 Socket 1150, Z97, DDR3, S-ATA 600, ATX (EUR 144.53 @ Amazon.it)
Memory: HyperX Fury Memory Black, 1866 MHz (2 x 4GB) DDR3 (EUR 85.43 @ Amazon.it)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (EUR 65.34 @ Amazon.it)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (EUR 53.99 @ amazon.it)
Video Card: GIGABYTE - GeForce GTX 970 4 GB GDDR5 Pci-E Dual-link DVI-I / DVI-D / HDMI / 3 x DisplayPort G1 GAMING (EUR 379.99 @ Eprice.it)
Case: Corsair Carbide 200R Mid Tower Black (EUR 57.50 @ Amazon.it)
Power Supply: SeasonicM12-II 520 EVO (EUR 66.67 @ Amazon.it)

Total: EUR 1100.67
Click to expand...

I've managed to find cheaper parts that won't affect the performance much. I don't know much about eprice.it and nexths.it, but they do seem to have cheaper prices than Amazon for some things. I got the cost to go as low as €1024, but it may not factor in the cost of shipping from eprice and nexths. Sorry, I don't know much about monitors so I can't make any recommendations.

PCPartPicker part list: http://it.pcpartpicker.com/p/NDx7ZL
Price breakdown by merchant: http://it.pcpartpicker.com/p/NDx7ZL/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (€218.49 @ Amazon Italia)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (€76.58 @ Amazon Italia)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€65.34 @ Amazon Italia)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (€59.28 @ Amazon Italia)
Other: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (€33.69)
Other: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card (€359.99)
Other: Antec GX500 ATX Mid Tower Case (€43.69)
Other: Seagate ST1000DM003 (€51.50)
Other: MSI Z97S SLI Plus (€115.90)
Total: €1024.46
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-12 18:28 CET+0100

The custom parts marked as "other" will have links to the product when you click on them, they aren't recorded in the PCPartPicker Italian database.

clem84 said:
I have a question about windows product keys that I'm hoping somebody here will be able to answer. I googled for this but couldn't find any answers.

You know how when you activate windows for the first time, the product key is paired with your motherboard serial number and this pair of values is stored in an MS database somewhere right? Starting from that moment, you'll always be able to install windows on the same PC but not on any other right? (well actually installing it would work but you won't be able to activate it).

Now, is it ok to give your product key away to somebody? I'm thinking, since it's already been used, what's the harm? Worse that will happen is that the installation will work but the activation will fail because the code has already been used right?

I'm asking because I put together this PC I was selling. I sold it with a legit copy of windows 8. While the guy was here, he asked me if I had windows 7. I said yes. Then he asked if I could make a copy for him to use on his other PC. I said sure. I made a copy of the disk but I didn't give him my product key. I was uncertain if it was wise to do so or not. Now, he has my phone number so he might call at some point to ask for the key. Is it ok to just give it to him?
Click to expand...

Making copies of Windows installation media is absolutely fine. Only the key matters. You can give him your key if you want, it wouldn't work for him anyway, assuming the computer you first used the key to activate Windows with is still running. I don't recall if Windows 7 connects to the internet when it asks for the key during installation - some Windows 7 installers ask for the key during installation, some don't, some even allow key entry to be skipped (just leave the fields blank and click 'next').

If he wants a key, you can tell him to go to Reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap. He can get a new, working, unique Windows 7 license key from there for $10-15 or so.

Broadbandito said:
question about i5 4440 vs 4440s. Is it worth the lower wattage worth it? Is the difference insignificant between the two for speed?
Click to expand...
Where are you buying them from, and for what prices? The 4440S has a slightly slower base clock speed than the 4440 (2.8GHz vs 3.1GHz) but both will ramp up to the same turbo clock speed of 3.5GHz.

There's barely enough difference between them to matter, although I suppose the 4440 is slightly better. The wattage and temperature difference won't matter too much even with the stock cooler, and it matters even less with a non-stock CPU cooler.
 
Y

yatesl

Member
Can anyone recommend me a good laptop for the parents? I have a Dell XPS 12 (4GB RAM, 120 SSD, i3-4430U) that they use, but my younger brother has told me that they want a new one (for reasons that are beyond me).

I hate looking at laptops, because I'm always in the mind frame of "God, that processor is rubbish, for all this money" that I can't get my head out of.

Anyway, I'm in the UK, and looking to spend ~£400 tops. Christmas present, so if it's Amazon prime - great - otherwise it's fine as long as it's before xmas. They don't do much on it - Facebook, watch the odd 1080p movie sometimes, but nothing major. I know my mum's been looking at a laptop on TV, but it's very reminiscent of the old netbooks from 5 years ago that are only slightly better than a calculator.
 
L

LilJoka

Member
yatesl said:
Can anyone recommend me a good laptop for the parents? I have a Dell XPS 12 (4GB RAM, 120 SSD, i3-4430U) that they use, but my younger brother has told me that they want a new one (for reasons that are beyond me).

I hate looking at laptops, because I'm always in the mind frame of "God, that processor is rubbish, for all this money" that I can't get my head out of.

Anyway, I'm in the UK, and looking to spend ~£400 tops. Christmas present, so if it's Amazon prime - great - otherwise it's fine as long as it's before xmas. They don't do much on it - Facebook, watch the odd 1080p movie sometimes, but nothing major. I know my mum's been looking at a laptop on TV, but it's very reminiscent of the old netbooks from 5 years ago that are only slightly better than a calculator.
Click to expand...

There is a dedicated laptop thread which may have some people with better knowledge.
My first advice is, if its a laptop you want a mobile CPU, not an Ultrabook CPU.
Ultrabook CPUs end in U, and mobile CPUs end in M. There is a BIG difference in speed even if both are i3/i5/i7. Ideally an i3 4xxxM CPU is what you are looking for.
 
S

spagett

Neo Member
Thanks to those who provided me some recommendations.

RGM79 said:
Would you be planning to run a second GTX 970 in the future? Do you have a keyboard/mouse/headset in mind?

I can recommend different graphics card, RAM and power supply. The Asus GTX 970 is a bit too long and will interfere with some hard drive bays in the case you selected. I recommend the shorter EVGA GTX 970 SC instead. The Mushkin memory is faster yet cheaper than the model you listed, and the Antec power supply is cheaper and higher capacity, made by Seasonic, and still has excellent reviews. Otherwise, the rest of the parts look fine.

EVGA GeForce GTX 970 Superclocked ACX 2.0 for $350.

Mushkin Blackline 8GB DDR3-2133 for $64

Antec HCG 850 watt PSU for $70 after $30 mail in rebate.
Click to expand...

I'm wasn't too worried about the graphics card length since I won't be using all of the drive bays. But that EVGA has good reviews too and is similarly priced so I may just switch to that.

I'd like the option of adding another 970 in the future, especially if I go the 1440p route and decide I need more power down the road. That's why I originally went with a higher wattage PSU. And I already have a mouse. For keyboards I'll look for something <$50 probably since I don't need anything fancy. Still need to research headsets.
 
K

Kinvara

Member
Your Current Specs: I have nothing. lol
Budget: $1500 but I can go higher, USA
Main Use: Light Gaming: 4, Gaming: 4, Emulation (PS2/Wii): 1, Video Editing: 1, Streaming games in HD: 1, 3D/Model work (and what program): 5, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback): 5.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p is good enough for me
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Maya, NukeX, pretty much any 3D modeling programs
Looking to reuse any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: I'd like to finish building by late January 2015
Will you be overclocking?: No

I plan to use my PC primarily for work plus some occasional gaming fun.

Starting to do some research right now but I'm still pretty lost.
 
R

RGM79

Member
Kinvara said:
Your Current Specs: I have nothing. lol
Budget: $1500 but I can go higher, USA
Main Use: Light Gaming: 4, Gaming: 4, Emulation (PS2/Wii): 1, Video Editing: 1, Streaming games in HD: 1, 3D/Model work (and what program): 5, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback): 5.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p is good enough for me
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Maya, NukeX, pretty much any 3D modeling programs
Looking to reuse any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: I'd like to finish building by late January 2015
Will you be overclocking?: No

I plan to use my PC primarily for work plus some occasional gaming fun.

Starting to do some research right now but I'm still pretty lost.
Click to expand...

Any preference for small PC cases? And when you say you won't be overclocking, do you mean never or that you won't for now but may do in the future? Here's a starting build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($331.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H-BK ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.44 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.85 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($359.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($359.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1529.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-12 20:31 EST-0500
 
K

Kinvara

Member
RGM79 said:
Any preference for small PC cases? And when you say you won't be overclocking, do you mean never or that you won't for now but may do in the future?
Click to expand...

No preference. I have no intention of overclocking now or in the future.

Thanks for the parts advice.
 
B

Boston

Member
My friend wants to buy a gaming laptop (he actually travels a lot and games on his couch, bed, ect.). He has around 700-800. Anyone know where to get a refurbished or used Gaming laptops around that price range?
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Well if you drop the H100 that will help costs :p
Boston said:
My friend wants to buy a gaming laptop (he actually travels a lot and games on his couch, bed, ect.). He has around 700-800. Anyone know where to get a refurbished or used Gaming laptops around that price range?
Click to expand...
I'd:
1) Ask the laptop thread, see OP
2) Look at Lenovo Y410 Y510
 
I

I should be doing hw

Member
Hey guys, just wanted to know the best way to go about backing up/saving the current documents and files I have before installing a new motherboard and SSD. I currently have W7 installed on a HDD (unpartitioned) and will be moving that over to the new SSD. Is it just a matter of selectively saving everything I want to bring over onto an external hdd and then moving them back once I've made the fresh install?
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I should be doing hw said:
Hey guys, just wanted to know the best way to go about backing up/saving the current documents and files I have before installing a new motherboard and SSD. I currently have W7 installed on a HDD (unpartitioned) and will be moving that over to the new SSD. Is it just a matter of selectively saving everything I want to bring over onto an external hdd and then moving them back once I've made the fresh install?
Click to expand...
If it's just files and documents put them on another storage unit and move em back
 
S

Solid Samus

Banned
RGM79 said:
Arma 3... I hear it doesn't run well even with an overclocked i7 4790K and GTX 970 in SLI, which was what I was going to recommend. You'll have no issues with Far Cry 4, though. I got it down to $1600 from the earlier build I had.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($331.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H-BK ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($62.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($62.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.85 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($359.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($359.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1603.51
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-12 03:23 EST-0500
Click to expand...

Seems like a good build. I'll check around for alternative parts that'll suit my needs where applicable. I caught your other build before the edit too and that seemed right up my alley. Should I expect prices to change much before the beginning of February?
 
R

RGM79

Member
XtaLarge said:
Seems like a good build. I'll check around for alternative parts that'll suit my needs where applicable. I caught your other build before the edit too and that seemed right up my alley. Should I expect prices to change much before the beginning of February?
Click to expand...
I don't think there will be major sales in February, but the R9 390X is slated for a 2015 Q1 or Q2 launch, maybe that will drive down the price of competing models.
 
X

XiaNaphryz

LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
So the power went out and despite being plugged into a surge protector, my wireless router died. It's several years old, so I'll need to get a newer model. Any recommendations?
 
R

RGM79

Member
XiaNaphryz said:
So the power went out and despite being plugged into a surge protector, my wireless router died. It's several years old, so I'll need to get a newer model. Any recommendations?
Click to expand...

What standard are the devices you usually connect to the router using? Wireless N? You could get a new router with the latest wireless AC standard. I myself like Asus routers.

This website looks useful. You can filter by the type of router you want and sort by price.

After looking for US deals, I found the Asus RT-AC66R wireless AC router on sale for $120 new, from both Newegg and Amazon.
 
S

Somax

Member
I have this configuration right now:

PROCESSOR Intel i7-2600K
MOTHER BOARD: ASUS mod. P8Z68-V LX Z68 LGA1155
RAM: 2 X 4096MB DDR3 1600Mhz HyperX
HARD DISK: 1000Gb Serial Ata 3 7200Rpm
VIDEO CARD:Nvidia GTX550 Ti 1024MB DDR5 VGA DVI HDMI PCI-Ex16
POWER SUPPLY: 750W 80Plus Bronze

I bought it 2 years ago, and the video card is (and always has been) a great performance bottleneck.
I was thinking about replacing it with a 970 GTX.
Will the system take full advantage from the new video card or are there other parts who could limit the improvements?
 
K

kharma45

Member
Somax said:
I have this configuration right now:

PROCESSOR Intel i7-2600K
MOTHER BOARD: ASUS mod. P8Z68-V LX Z68 LGA1155
RAM: 2 X 4096MB DDR3 1600Mhz HyperX
HARD DISK: 1000Gb Serial Ata 3 7200Rpm
VIDEO CARD:Nvidia GTX550 Ti 1024MB DDR5 VGA DVI HDMI PCI-Ex16
POWER SUPPLY: 750W 80Plus Bronze

I bought it 2 years ago, and the video card is (and always has been) a great performance bottleneck.
I was thinking about replacing it with a 970 GTX.
Will the system take full advantage from the new video card or are there other parts who could limit the improvements?
Click to expand...

970 would be an absolutely phenomenal upgrade.

Have you overclocked your i7? An SSD would also be a nice addition.
 
L

Lunar15

Member
2 novice CPU cooler questions:

1. I have the Kraken X61 with the 280mm Radiator, so I'll need to put this on the top of the case. The case I have has one big intake in the front, one exhaust in the back, and one exhaust on top. If I put the radiator on the top, should I have it pushing or pulling? From an airflow standpoint, exhaust makes more sense to me since the other top fan is exhaust, but from a cooling standpoint I don't know if I want to send air from the case through the radiator.

2. Should I remove the thermal paste that's already on the cooler and get some of my own to apply? I think I had heard that somewhere.
 
A

Armoured Titan

Member
What's the best brand of thermal paste to go for? I have an Arctic Silver 5 but that's hardened up from years of storage so looking for something new.
 
appaws

appaws

Banned
ISee said:
Asus RT-AC56U ~100€
For the price it is okay.
Click to expand...

Nostremitus said:
I'm enjoying my Netgear Nighthawk R7000.
Click to expand...

Since we are talking about routers....I have a question:

I'm still using a really old crappy Modem/Router that AT&T gave me when I moved here. I have at&t dsl.

What should I buy? A new router/modem combo....or 2 separate?

But the speeds of the net are pretty good using wired connections....so should I just buy a wireless router and plug it into the modem/router I already have....?
 
T

TC McQueen

Member
appaws said:
Since we are talking about routers....I have a question:

I'm still using a really old crappy Modem/Router that AT&T gave me when I moved here. I have at&t dsl.

What should I buy? A new router/modem combo....or 2 separate?

But the speeds of the net are pretty good using wired connections....so should I just buy a wireless router and plug it into the modem/router I already have....?
Click to expand...
Probably a modem and router of your own (just make sure the modem is supported by your ISP). Assuming this modem/router combo is an ISP supplied modem and separate router, you could probably just go with a router and switch to a modem of your own later on, if you want to.
 
Dries

Dries

Member
Hey guys, what is the best way to analyze if your GPU is performing how it "should perform"? Wasn't there a benchmark tool you could run and then compare your score with other users? I forgot the name..
 
T

The Llama

Member
Dries said:
Hey guys, what is the best way to analyze if your GPU is performing how it "should perform"? Wasn't there a benchmark tool you could run and then compare your score with other users? I forgot the name..
Click to expand...

3DMark Firestrike or the Unigine Heaven are probably the 2 best.
 
I

Invis

Member
Looking for a new mouse. Looking for a fairly small mouse as my hands are also quite small. Needs side buttons on the left, preferably DPI buttons somewhere, all under $80. No MMO mice. I'd also love if the mice has finger rests on the right side, but it's hard finding mice that have those.

I currently have a CM Storm Spawn, but pretty much half of the paint coating has worn off, the side buttons double click, and some wiring is faulty on the inside (Windows doesn't register the mouse sometimes). The feel and especially the size of this mouse is great. Since my hands are small, it's a great fit. But with all these problems I have with this mice currently, I'm looking for try something else.

I been looking at the Roccat Kone Pure Optical, Logitech G502, and the Mionix NAOS 7000. Had my eye on the NAOS due to the finger rests and fantastic sensor, the G502 for the adjustable weights and buttons near the left click, and the Kone cause it just looks amazing.
 
D

Dragon1893

Member
Prime crotch said:
Quick question, for a 970 gtx do I need a bigger PSU than a 550V and should I get a new mobo? My current one is a MSI B85MG43
Click to expand...

I have a similar question. I don't suppose that I can get away with a 500 w PSU for a Gigabyte gtx970 windforce oc?
What about the mobo? It's a DH67BL (LGA1155). Some advice would be really appreciated since I found a good deal for this gpu.
 
Y

Yudoken

Member
Anyone using Windows 8.1 enterprise?
I've bought it (r/microsoftsoftwareswap) and thought it would be a better choice than pro because it's cheaper and has more features but somehow I have problems loading DS3 drivers with Motionjoy to use it with Better DS3.
I also am annoyed about constantly file access denied requests where I have to press continue (when I change files in C:\ or somewhere similar) and I hate it.
I know that is also a thing on 8.1 and modding is REALLY way more time consuming.
How do I change this (like it's on 7)?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

"I Need a New PC!" 2024. 240 Hz OLEDs, PCI-Gen5, Path Tracing & Ray Reconstruction.
6 7 8 9 10
454
22K
Nankatsu replied
  • Locked
So i Am Going to be Building A New PC...
Social Opinion
24
2K
DGrayson replied
The Mac vs PC War is back on (sprawling newsletter article by Tom Warren about Windows & Arm)
2 3
142
5K
GHG replied
Introducing G-SYNC Pulsar tech
2
51
5K
TrebleShot replied
(Probably) Buying My First Gaming PC Since 2016. Thoughts?
8
921
zomboden replied
Top Bottom