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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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riflen

Member
Welp, the usual crummy leak websites are circulating photos of the GM200 GPU. The pictures seem genuine though. A new GTX Titan could arrive this quarter. Previous Titan products have released in the month of February. Smokey, hold firm!
 

LilJoka

Member
i've watched countless videos on how to build a pc and to be honest have a fair idea what to do but i've never build a pc before so just really nervous about the whole thing. and it's a lot of money if something doesn't work.

You'll be absolute fine when everything is in front of you. It is not difficult and there are plenty of people here that will guide you even step by step to get it going.
 
got all my items in the basket and just need to put in my card details.

total build price £1067.

i5-4690k (not overclocking just now)
8gb
msi z97 gaming 5
msi gtx 970
750w evga supernova
250gb samsung ssd (will add 1TB later)
define r5 case

i have the 8.1 oem disc...will i be ok with that or should i try get the retail version? can't seem to get a straight answer on what the differences are .


problem is i just cant bring myself to go ahead with it. i'm not confident about building it incase i mess something up. only have experience changing RAM/HD.

Looks good.

OEM and Retail version of Windows 8.1 doesn't matter anymore. At previous Windows versions it would mean it was tied to your hardware and as such you couldn't transfer it to a different PC.

Now I think it might only make a difference if you try to reach Microsoft Support for help with Windows or something. Just go with OEM, I have never heard of anyone using that.

Just go with it, there are plenty of tutorials and installing the CPU cooler is often the more difficult part imo, but you don't have a custom one so that should be easy.
 

ShdwDrake

Banned
Should I buy an R9 280x (180$) or a second 6870 (80$). I don't play games in higher than 1080p and I don't really tweak the settings outside the games.

The rest of my system is a Phenom II X4 965 Black edition, 8GB DDR3, 6870 1GB. The current game I'm playing on my PC is Borderlands the Presequel and I max it on my PC. I would like to be able to run the witcher 3 decently at 1080p 60fps on medium high tho...
 
I'm a complete newb when it comes to gaming controllers on a PC. Can anyone here recommend a good controller to pair with a PC? From my brief search it seems like the old 360 controller is pretty much it, but I know that can't be right.

My OS is Windows 8.1 Pro.
 

rc6886

Unconfirmed Member
I'm a complete newb when it comes to gaming controllers on a PC. Can anyone here recommend a good controller to pair with a PC?

My OS is Windows 8.1 Pro.

You can use a PS4, Xbox One, and Xbox 360 controller on the PC. There's some drivers you need to install for the PS4 and Xbox One, but the 360 controller is pretty much plug-and-play.

I probably wouldn't even consider any other controllers for PC, those are the best you can get.
 
A wireless receiver and Bluetooth are built into my motherboard, but you probably need a custom receiver for a wireless 360 controller though don't you?
 

Jon X. Porter

Neo Member
I'm a complete newb when it comes to gaming controllers on a PC. Can anyone here recommend a good controller to pair with a PC? From my brief search it seems like the old 360 controller is pretty much it, but I know that can't be right.

My OS is Windows 8.1 Pro.

Ask 3 different gamers that question and you'll get 4 different responses. The best I can do is list your options with some pros and cons for each:

360 Pad:
Pros: Out of the box support, buttons match onscreen prompts, wired or wireless versions (thought you'll need to buy a dongle to get wireless to work)
Cons: that f*cking d-pad

DS4:
Pros: D-pad, works with a bluetooth dongle if you've already got one
Cons: Battery life

Wii U Pro Controller
Pros: Bluetooth, insanely good battery life, D-pad
Cons: No analogue triggers

Xbone Controller:
Pros: IMO probably the next go-to PC controller (based on Microsoft's connection to the PC gaming scene and the success of the 360 pad as a PC controller)
Cons: D-pad, no wireless support (you'll have to plug it in)

I expect a bunch of people will disagree with me on various points, but for reference I use a wired 360 pad and am 90% satisfied.
 
Hmm, I hadn't considered the WiiU Pro controller. I'll have to think about that. I know Valve is coming out with their own Steam controller soon, so that kinda has me wanting to go the cheap route for now. I still have two wireless 360 pads, so I guess I'll just look into buying a dongle for now. And after Valve releases their product I'll decide if I want to go with that, the Xbone, or maybe the WiiU Pro controller. I've never been a huge fan of the Dual Shock controllers.

Thanks for the opinions everyone, I appreciate it. :)
 

Volotaire

Member
Yeah, AMD sounds like a great place to start from. You will probably want to come back in about two months just before you actually buy, because prices can always change, especially for things like RAM.

Still, here's an example build. I was able to bring it closer to £250 by going with 4GB of RAM. Going with 8GB will cost a bit over £300, but if it's initially being used for what you say it is, even 4GB should be enough. When you do need more RAM for when you start doing streaming, it's easy enough to get a second stick of 4GB RAM and install it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD A10-6800K 4.1GHz Quad-Core Processor (£83.95 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-F2A88XM-DS2 Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard (£36.50 @ Aria PC)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£32.00 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£40.39 @ Aria PC)
Case: Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£36.59 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£46.09 @ Aria PC)
Total: £275.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-15 22:46 GMT+0000

Hmm I worked out an Intel build for your budget. The G3258 definitely has stronger CPU performance, but the integrated graphics is weaker than in the AMD APU. Fine for 2D, not so sure about source engine games. Assuming you do drop in a graphics card in the future and do some CPU overclocking, it'll prove stronger than the APU build.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor (£49.04 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.97 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Anniversary Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£65.03 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£32.00 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£40.39 @ Aria PC)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£29.77 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£46.09 @ Aria PC)
Total: £287.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-15 23:25 GMT+0000

.
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Wow thanks a lot! Given that I want the streaming up for March, it looks like I'll have to invest into another 4GB stick. Also, thanks for the Intel build as well! I might not go with it just to save on costs and because performance isn't the largest issue. Moreover, I need to playable for various game in March without investing into a GPU, so it isn't feasible. Settings for games would probably be restricted to 720p low to medium settings with indie games, local multiplayer games or LAN games being the focus. Is it worth searching for power supplies of around 500-550W to save on cost too?
 

BeEatNU

WORLDSTAAAAAAR
Buying another GTX 770 would cost about as much as a 970. On the other hand, selling the 770 would cover part of the cost of the 970. And not all games support SLI.

He can bu ya used 770 for about $200 (I am selling one for that price)
that saves him about $150 from a new 970

and what games don't support it?
I haven't heard anything recently not supporting it.
 

Nikokuno

Member
It's been a while since my last post in this thread, I'm planning to buy a monitor and I need some recommendations since first page looks a bit lacking of advices.

My current display is a 107cm TV screen, 1080p by SONY, manly playing PS3 and Wii U in the living room. Since I have more place in my new room I'm looking for something more compact :)

Like I said I'm playing on consoles, PC (i5-4460xGTX760x8GODDR3) and do some lightroom.
I think a 24" display is the best compromise, not too slow (CS:GO/Loadout/Evolve) but with a good color accuracy. Oh and I watch a lot of series too.
 

Smokey

Member
Welp, the usual crummy leak websites are circulating photos of the GM200 GPU. The pictures seem genuine though. A new GTX Titan could arrive this quarter. Previous Titan products have released in the month of February. Smokey, hold firm!

I'm here. Plotting. Waiting.

TBH I dunno if I'll jump on it. Depending on the leap in performance and efficiency I guess. I told someone else I am retiring from the game this year. Somebody else might have to take over !

I'll probably get swept up in the hype though
 
It is worth it to upgrade to a 970 even though there's a lot of problems such as the gpu not utilizing full load and the VRAM issue? I was on a 560 ti and the VRAM went bad and now im on a GTX 275 on a 4790k. I know i need to upgrade but i don't know if its worth it.
 

RGM79

Member

I found out that it's made by a company called Loop and it's the case model LP-3806. According to this Korean product page (but not mentioned on the official product page), there is room for a graphics card up to 285mm length, can you confirm that by doing some measuring of your own? Assuming that figure of 285mm length is correct, certain models of the R9 280 may fit. For example, the XFX R9 280 (295mm) will not fit, while the Sapphire Dual-X R9 280 (262mm) will.

Should I buy an R9 280x (180$) or a second 6870 (80$). I don't play games in higher than 1080p and I don't really tweak the settings outside the games.

The rest of my system is a Phenom II X4 965 Black edition, 8GB DDR3, 6870 1GB. The current game I'm playing on my PC is Borderlands the Presequel and I max it on my PC. I would like to be able to run the witcher 3 decently at 1080p 60fps on medium high tho...

I can't really recommend a second 6870. See if you can sell that 6870 1GB and go for the R9 280X 3GB instead. It might be cheaper to crossfire with a second 6870 and it may boot framerate a bit for games that support it, but you'll still be stuck with 1GB VRAM, whereas a R9 280X will easily beat crossfired 6870s and have VRAM to spare for newer and better looking games.

A wireless receiver and Bluetooth are built into my motherboard, but you probably need a custom receiver for a wireless 360 controller though don't you?

The wireless 360 requires its own Microsoft branded dongle, because IIRC it connects via radio frequency and not bluetooth.

.

Wow thanks a lot! Given that I want the streaming up for March, it looks like I'll have to invest into another 4GB stick. Also, thanks for the Intel build as well! I might not go with it just to save on costs and because performance isn't the largest issue. Moreover, I need to playable for various game in March without investing into a GPU, so it isn't feasible. Settings for games would probably be restricted to 720p low to medium settings with indie games, local multiplayer games or LAN games being the focus. Is it worth searching for power supplies of around 500-550W to save on cost too?

At the time of checking, that 600 watt power supply was one of the cheapest decent quality models I could recommend. It'll also cover just about any single graphics card you could possibly want to upgrade to in the future. If you still want to shave costs here and there, there is the 500 watt version of the same power supply for £37. That computer will probably only use up 200-250 watts or even less without a graphics card.
 
I'm a complete newb when it comes to gaming controllers on a PC. Can anyone here recommend a good controller to pair with a PC? From my brief search it seems like the old 360 controller is pretty much it, but I know that can't be right.

My OS is Windows 8.1 Pro.
I'm using an Xbox One controller on Win 8.1 Pro. Works like a charm.
Love the controller. Better ergonomics than X360 (which was my previous favorite).
But it all comes down to personal preference. XB1, X360, DS3, DS4...whatever you like the best (DS3/DS4 aren't plug and play though and require some meddling).
 

RGM79

Member
Whats a good graphics card you all recommend?
Like Kharma45 said, it depends on how much you want to spend and what sort of performance you want. What games do you play and on what monitor resolution? Do you care about high framerate (60+ FPS) or graphics quality (ultra, medium, etc)?

Also important is what country you're in if not the US. Prices and availability differ outside of North America.

These questions will help us narrow down the best choices so you don't end up overspending.
 
Depends on budget.

Like Kharma45 said, it depends on how much you want to spend and what sort of performance you want. What games do you play and on what monitor resolution? Do you care about high framerate (60+ FPS) or graphics quality (ultra, medium, etc)?

Also important is what country you're in if not the US. Prices and availability differ outside of North America.

These questions will help us narrow down the best choices so you don't end up overspending.

Well, I mainly want to run PC games without any trouble basically. I mainly play Dayz and will be buying H1Z1. I also want to live stream PC/PS3 games as well. I plan on using OBS.

Thanks for the help.
 
I found out that it's made by a company called Loop and it's the case model LP-3806. According to this Korean product page (but not mentioned on the official product page), there is room for a graphics card up to 285mm length, can you confirm that by doing some measuring of your own? Assuming that figure of 285mm length is correct, certain models of the R9 280 may fit. For example, the XFX R9 280 (295mm) will not fit, while the Sapphire Dual-X R9 280 (262mm) will.

Looks like I only came across the bigger versions. You're right, the smaller one you mentioned fits, the other one doesn't.
I'll have to look at prices for that smaller one.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Best budget cooler? Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. For under $30, you'll get to overclock to around 4.5GHz.
Best air cooler? I'd recommend a Noctua NH-D15. Pricey at around $90 and larger than the 212 Evo, but Noctua puts a lot of care and design into their cooler, and it is one of the absolute best models you can buy, I'd recommend it over water cooling.
Best water cooler would be the NZXT Kraken X61, Swiftech H220-X or H240-X, and Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate, all will perform similarly.

Well in all likelihood I"m probably not going over 4GHz (stock speed is 3.4). We'll see. I definitely wouldn't go over 4.5.

By the way, do I gotta mess with thermal paste with any of this? My motherboard just has a clip-on cover for the CPU, and the stock cooler is also clip-on. I'm assuming I just need a screwdriver for these aftermarket coolers right?
 
Well in all likelihood I"m probably not going over 4GHz (stock speed is 3.4). We'll see. I definitely wouldn't go over 4.5.

By the way, do I gotta mess with thermal paste with any of this? My motherboard just has a clip-on cover for the CPU, and the stock cooler is also clip-on. I'm assuming I just need a screwdriver for these aftermarket coolers right?
Yes, but you will need to apply new paste, the one that comes with the cooler is not that good. Arctic silver 5 is popular.
 

BennyBlanco

aka IMurRIVAL69
BmR76c3.png


Do you guys think it's worth me getting a 970? I was able to play everything last year with good performance, and MGS GZ ran great, but GTAV and TW3 are probably going to give me fits. I just don't know. I have the FTW+ 970 in my cart at newegg but I can't bring myself to pull the trigger lol.
 

graywolf323

Member
not sure if this is the right thread for this but if anyone looking to build a computer or upgrade is interested I'm looking to sell my OCZ Vertex 4 512GB SSD for ~$175

www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227820

it's just over 2 years old and works great (OCZ has a 5 year warranty) but I currently only have a MacBook Pro which I can't put it in and don't feel like keeping it in my PS4 plus I could use the money
 

BennyBlanco

aka IMurRIVAL69
not sure if this is the right thread for this but if anyone looking to build a computer or upgrade is interested I'm looking to sell my OCZ Vertex 4 512GB SSD for ~$175

www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227820

it's just over 2 years old and works great (OCZ has a 5 year warranty) but I currently only have a MacBook Pro which I can't put it in and don't feel like keeping it in my PS4 plus I could use the money

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=895748

try this thread
 

garath

Member
Well in all likelihood I"m probably not going over 4GHz (stock speed is 3.4). We'll see. I definitely wouldn't go over 4.5.

By the way, do I gotta mess with thermal paste with any of this? My motherboard just has a clip-on cover for the CPU, and the stock cooler is also clip-on. I'm assuming I just need a screwdriver for these aftermarket coolers right?

The aftermarket coolers come with thermal paste. Very little difference in aftermarket paste these days.

The cooler master 212 would be (and was) my choice. My 2500k is OC'd to 4.2 without breaking a sweat. I haven't even tried to go higher (too lazy). It's been stable that way for years.
 

RGM79

Member
Well in all likelihood I"m probably not going over 4GHz (stock speed is 3.4). We'll see. I definitely wouldn't go over 4.5.

By the way, do I gotta mess with thermal paste with any of this? My motherboard just has a clip-on cover for the CPU, and the stock cooler is also clip-on. I'm assuming I just need a screwdriver for these aftermarket coolers right?
Then go with the 212 Evo cooler if it fits your case, no need to spend any more than that for a slight overclock.

The 212 Evo comes with a syringe tube of thermal paste that you'll need to apply yourself, but it's not hard. Lightly push out a blob the size of a small pea and press the cooler down to spread the paste, no need for manual spreading.

Yes you'll need a Philips screwdriver, and depending on how accessible your case is, in the worst case scenario you'll need to take the motherboard out of the case so you can install the metal backplate for the cooler.
 

versa7il

Member
I need help GAF. This is the first time in my life I cant tell for sure whats wrong with my PC.

6 or 7 months ago I bought an used xfx 290 reference online (I know, it was dirt cheap). That thing ran HOT. A couple of months later after sleep mode I tried waking my PC up but I was getting no signal. Did a cold boot and still no signal, no mater what I did. Tested my PCI-E lane with another card and it worked fine. I decided to send the 290 to the warranty and buy a Gigabyte G1 970. A couple of weeks later I was downsampling Dark Souls 2 with my brand new 970. Everything was working fine until a blackout happened a coupe of days after I received the card. After the blackout I started getting no signal again. I tried putting the card on the second PCI-E lane and somehow it worked. Tried to switch it to the first lane but it only worked from the second. A couple of days later the card died.

I have no clue about what could be causing my GPUs to die. Is it possible that my ancient 7yr+ PSU fried my GPUs or was it the blackout? My PC is connected to a cheap Belkin surge protector.

Specs:
CPU: Intel i7 4770k
Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H60
MB: MSI Z87 MPower
RAM: Corsair 4gb DDR3 x2
HDD: Samsung 840 SSD
Seagate 1TB
GPU: XFX AMD 290 (dead) / Gigabyte NV 970 (dead)
PSU: Ultra LSP750 750-Watt (from my old PC)
 

RGM79

Member
Yes, but you will need to apply new paste, the one that comes with the cooler is not that good. Arctic silver 5 is popular.

In a comprehensive comparison of 39 different thermal paste brand and models by Tom's Hardware, Arctic Silver 5 only scored 1.4 degrees better at best than the stuff that Cooler Master includes in the Hyper 212 Evo kit.

Arctic Silver 5 also costs $5.49 a tube. I don't really think it's worth the extra $5. If he had to buy better thermal paste, he could get a tube of Noctua NT-H1 for $5.56 which is better than AS5 and outperforms Cooler Master's included thermal paste by 2 degrees according to the results above.

I need help GAF. This is the first time in my life I cant tell for sure whats wrong with my PC.

6 or 7 months ago I bought an used xfx 290 reference online (I know, it was dirt cheap). That thing ran HOT. A couple of months later after sleep mode I tried waking my PC up but I was getting no signal. Did a cold boot and still no signal, no mater what I did. Tested my PCI-E lane with another card and it worked fine. I decided to send the 290 to the warranty and buy a Gigabyte G1 970. A couple of weeks later I was downsampling Dark Souls 2 with my brand new 970. Everything was working fine until a blackout happened a coupe of days after I received the card. After the blackout I started getting no signal again. I tried putting the card on the second PCI-E lane and somehow it worked. Tried to switch it to the first lane but it only worked from the second. A couple of days later the card died.

I have no clue about what could be causing my GPUs to die. Is it possible that my ancient 7yr+ PSU fried my GPUs or was it the blackout? My PC is connected to a cheap Belkin surge protector.

Specs:
CPU: Intel i7 4770k
Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H60
MB: MSI Z87 MPower
RAM: Corsair 4gb DDR3 x2
HDD: Samsung 840 SSD
Seagate 1TB
GPU: XFX AMD 290 (dead) / Gigabyte NV 970 (dead)
PSU: Ultra LSP750 750-Watt (from my old PC)

It could be the PSU or possibly even the motherboard. I couldn't find any professional reviews of the LSP750, but Ultra's reputation seems to range from bad to average. Have you tried the graphics card in another PC? I wouldn't rule out the motherboard being a bit damaged after the blackout. The power supply powers the graphics card through the motherboard, after all.
 
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