Support NeoGAF

[Slevin]

I just got the 65" ks8000 and it keeps restarting itself right after it turns on. A low buzzing noise is included. At one point I was able to turn down the brightness settings which stopped it, but then I stupidly turned on HDR and now it restarts within a second of turning on and I'm unable to do anything about it.

Anyone else have this problem? I'm guessing only thing I can do is call Samsung CS and get it repaired. Ugh.

 

[Auto_aim1]

Do you guys really disable dynamic contrast while in game mode? I feel like it enhances picture quality. I keep it on low or medium though.

 

[philm87]

Do you guys really disable dynamic contrast while in game mode? I feel like it enhances picture quality. I keep it on low or medium though.

I did have it off for a while but tried it again recently and much preferred it on, so just leave it on medium now.

 

[Yopis]

Do you guys really disable dynamic contrast while in game mode? I feel like it enhances picture quality. I keep it on low or medium though.

Can't stand DC. Your TV though enjoy how you want. For me no dice.

 

[Imp the Dimp]

Okay:

PS4: RGB FULL, KS8000: Black Level: Normal
PS4: RGB Limited, KS8000: Black Level: Low

Are those identical or just both good?

 

[Aske]

Do you guys really disable dynamic contrast while in game mode? I feel like it enhances picture quality. I keep it on low or medium though.

It makes everything pop, but it creates a less accurate picture, and you'll lose detail. Totally up to you which you prioritise - a lot of people prefer their picture to look more vibrant than their source material, but accurate reproduction of the source is what most enthusiasts want.

 

[Robiin]

It makes everything pop, but it creates a less accurate picture, and you'll lose detail. Totally up to you which you prioritise - a lot of people prefer their picture to look more vibrant than their source material, but accurate reproduction of the source is what most enthusiasts want.

I can understand both as well. For movies and cinematic stuff, off for sure. But "gamey", colorful games I can understand the contrast being attractive. That said, I finally found a picture setting that leaves DC off while having great looking colors for Smash Wii U - a game I play and watch religiously and know how I want to look.

 

[LenHendricks]

Does anyone use a decent stand that swivels and is easy to assemble for the 65'? Any recommendations would be appreciated

 

[SolarMystic]

When people say to have your TV calibrated, what exactly does that entail?

Is there a disc or something I need to buy?

 

[Libram]

So i got this tv back in feb with my tax return and really like it but I've noticed especially on my ps4 pro, every once in a while i get a dark blue/black haze in all four corners of the screen, this only hapens in certain scenes when the picture is dark. Im wondering if this is the ps4 pro or the tv. I dont really see it on anything else, ive checked for clouding and backlight leak and it doesnt seem to be the issue. Anyone else have this issue?

 

[Belker]

When people say to have your TV calibrated, what exactly does that entail?

Is there a disc or something I need to buy?

I've not had this done, but there are discs you can buy (such as the Disney WoW dsic, I think it's called) and files you can download for calibration.

You can also hire someone to come to your house with device and software that checks colours etc. on your TV and they will tweak your settings for you there.

 

[Dr. Zoidberg]

So i got this tv back in feb with my tax return and really like it but I've noticed especially on my ps4 pro, every once in a while i get a dark blue/black haze in all four corners of the screen, this only hapens in certain scenes when the picture is dark. Im wondering if this is the ps4 pro or the tv. I dont really see it on anything else, ive checked for clouding and backlight leak and it doesnt seem to be the issue. Anyone else have this issue?

So is this like a slight gradual darkening or shadowing in the corners? If so that is called vignetting and while it can be a panel uniformity issue, it's often used purposefully by game designers as a graphical effect. For example, in Elder Scrolls online, there is always slight vignetting around the corners of the screen while in first-person mode. That "filter" is taken away in third person mode. Lots of games do this. GTA5, etc. I kind of hate it personally but it's seemingly more popular than ever.

A similar effect could also be caused by sitting too close to the screen because the angles to the corners are large enough to cause a loss in brightness/contrast due to LCD's bad viewing angles, but in that case you'd notice it everywhere, not just in certain scenes.

As I mentioned, this CAN be a uniformity issue. Here's a picture from an LG OLED with a bad vignetting problem. The screen is supposed to be a uniform dark gray, but as you can see, the TV is incapable of reproducing it. Here is a gray-screen uniformity test of the KS8000. Since the LEDs are along the top and bottom edges, the left and right edge are slightly darker. This is just the way it is, but the corners don't seem that bad and I doubt that is your issue.

Since you mention it happens in dark scenes, what is your backlight and Smart LED setting? Is this in HDR games mostly or all?

 

[noomi]

Found a 65" model with an FF01 panel, used but in great condition, and with a 2 year warranty from squaretrade (started in January).

$1,100

I have the 55 inch and I love it, but want a larger one in our family room.

What do Gaf, what do?

 

[h3ro]

Found a 65" model with an FF01 panel, used but in great condition, and with a 2 year warranty from squaretrade (started in January).

$1,100

I have the 55 inch and I love it, but want a larger one in our family room.

What do Gaf, what do?

So regarding the different panels the KS8000 seems to come with, I picked up a 65" from Costco recently and after snooping around the TV, found that it has an FB03 panel, which is a newer panel.

Not much information out there about these panels, do you know of a resource?

 

[Belker]

Found a 65" model with an FF01 panel, used but in great condition, and with a 2 year warranty from squaretrade (started in January).

$1,100

I have the 55 inch and I love it, but want a larger one in our family room.

What do Gaf, what do?

You already have a great TV. For the sake of a used TV - and a guarantee you might want to assume could be difficult to claim on - why not save the cash and put it towards a HDMI 2.1 model when they come out?

 

[noomi]

So regarding the different panels the KS8000 seems to come with, I picked up a 65" from Costco recently and after snooping around the TV, found that it has an FB03 panel, which is a newer panel.

Not much information out there about these panels, do you know of a resource?

I had no idea other panel types even existed for the ks8000. I was only aware of AA01 and FF01

You already have a great TV. For the sake of a used TV - and a guarantee you might want to assume could be difficult to claim on - why not save the cash and put it towards a HDMI 2.1 model when they come out?

You know what.... you're right. I'll wait it out! The only reason I wanted it because it is such an amazing TV all around, and this years Samsung model isn't nearly as good as the 2016 one....

 

[h3ro]

I had no idea other panel types even existed for the ks8000. I was only aware of AA01 and FF01

As was I. Literally only information I'm finding on AVS is that it's a newer panel and that those who got it didn't note some of the earlier panel issues.
I'm using the KS8000 as a stopgap until the new specs OLEDs are out in a year or 2. Figure it's a really solid TV to use in my main room for a bit.
I've also put in an order for the TCL that's tearing up the AV community for the bedroom, looking forward to that as well.

 

[Dr. Zoidberg]

I've also put in an order for the TCL that's tearing up the AV community for the bedroom, looking forward to that as well.

Can you elaborate on the model of this TCL and why it is causing a stir? I try to avoid AVS Forum and similar areas now that I finally have a TV I am happy with.

 

[KalBalboa]

Bought an adapter for my PS2.

Still vexed that there are no component adapters from Samsung for the breakout box. Why even have the breakout box for inputs if it only supports HDMI?

 

[Libram]

So backlight is set at 2-3, i dont use hdr. and smart led is off. its not in all games i play, currently playing witcher 3 and its present in this game.

So is this like a slight gradual darkening or shadowing in the corners? If so that is called vignetting and while it can be a panel uniformity issue, it's often used purposefully by game designers as a graphical effect. For example, in Elder Scrolls online, there is always slight vignetting around the corners of the screen while in first-person mode. That "filter" is taken away in third person mode. Lots of games do this. GTA5, etc. I kind of hate it personally but it's seemingly more popular than ever.

A similar effect could also be caused by sitting too close to the screen because the angles to the corners are large enough to cause a loss in brightness/contrast due to LCD's bad viewing angles, but in that case you'd notice it everywhere, not just in certain scenes.

As I mentioned, this CAN be a uniformity issue. Here's a picture from an LG OLED with a bad vignetting problem. The screen is supposed to be a uniform dark gray, but as you can see, the TV is incapable of reproducing it. Here is a gray-screen uniformity test of the KS8000. Since the LEDs are along the top and bottom edges, the left and right edge are slightly darker. This is just the way it is, but the corners don't seem that bad and I doubt that is your issue.

Since you mention it happens in dark scenes, what is your backlight and Smart LED setting? Is this in HDR games mostly or all?

 

[Dr. Zoidberg]

Still vexed that there are no component adapters from Samsung for the breakout box. Why even have the breakout box for inputs if it only supports HDMI?

From what I understand, the box also contains all the processing chips and smart "guts" for the TV. There are several advantages:

1) Box can easily be replaced to upgrade the TV to new HDMI standards, better/faster smart guts, etc. Samsung has offered this kind of upgrade for previous models.

2) For wall-mounted sets, only one cable to snake through the wall

3) If there is a defect or damage to one of the HDMI ports due to plugging/unplugging, it's an easy replacement through Samsung. Much easier than having the whole TV serviced or replaced, anyway.

So backlight is set at 2-3, i dont use hdr. and smart led is off. its not in all games i play, currently playing witcher 3 and its present in this game.

That's a pretty low backlight setting. Does raising it help at all when this occurs? I have Witcher 3 for PS4 but haven't gotten around to it yet, so I don't know if that game uses vignetting as an effect in certain situations or not.

 

[SolarMystic]

I've not had this done, but there are discs you can buy (such as the Disney WoW dsic, I think it's called) and files you can download for calibration.

You can also hire someone to come to your house with device and software that checks colours etc. on your TV and they will tweak your settings for you there.

Thanks, will look into this further.

 

[NinjamicWZ]

How does HDR+ look like for regular HD tv shows?

Update to this, I got a hard to find copy of Apocalypto on bluray (regular 1080p) and had to try a lot of stuff to get rid of it's inherent judder and soap opera effect (really unusual), and actually ended up settling on HDR+ with most things turned off and LED Clear Motion actually turned on for once... that plus some slider tweaks made it look perfect, and has actually been my go to setting for watching regular 1080p blurays now. Watched The War of the Roses and Willow yesterday, and they looked incredible.

Changing my mind about HDR+ for regular HD. Gonna try it more often.

Do you guys really disable dynamic contrast while in game mode? I feel like it enhances picture quality. I keep it on low or medium though.

I only ever turn off Dynamic Contrast for movies and if I'm using HDR+ on a 1080p SDR game that I'm trying to get a smoother look and different color effect from (totally not accurate, but can look cool).

For most games, I like the pop it and brightness it gives, and even in Game Mode, I assume that if it was a feature that caused input delay, it would be greyed out like other features are. I only really play fighting games on Game Mode though.

imo few games have such subtle black range that dynamic contrast is subtracting from as long as you're not crushing the blacks with other settings in conjunction with it. So I don't worry about accuracy and intent there so much... with games, I think of it as something I'm going to be looking at for hours upon hours, and just want it to look the way I like.

I can understand both as well. For movies and cinematic stuff, off for sure. But "gamey", colorful games I can understand the contrast being attractive. That said, I finally found a picture setting that leaves DC off while having great looking colors for Smash Wii U - a game I play and watch religiously and know how I want to look.

That's exactly how I am with Metal Gear Solid V. I see the game so much that I'm basically just customizing my visual experience with it. I switch to HDR+ specifically for that one game, and have DC off under that setting. So when I switch to HDR+ on the PS4 it's basically just "MGSV Mode" for me. Smooths it out, makes some of the lighting, color and night time better more to my liking.

 

[Imp the Dimp]

People who can see the loss of detail with dynamic contrast on "low" can likely tell the difference between 320 kbps and FLAC.

 

[MazeHaze]

So backlight is set at 2-3, i dont use hdr. and smart led is off. its not in all games i play, currently playing witcher 3 and its present in this game.

Witcher 3 has pretty heavy vignetting by default. It's the game, not the TV.

 

[Belker]

Update to this, I got a hard to find copy of Apocalypto on bluray (regular 1080p) and had to try a lot of stuff to get rid of it's inherent judder and soap opera effect (really unusual), and actually ended up settling on HDR+ with most things turned off and LED Clear Motion actually turned on for once... that plus some slider tweaks made it look perfect, and has actually been my go to setting for watching regular 1080p blurays now. Watched The War of the Roses and Willow yesterday, and they looked incredible.

Changing my mind about HDR+ for regular HD. Gonna try it more often.

Could you share your HDR+ settings? I tried it once on Netflix and it made everything cartoonish. I don't watch DVDs, so I'd only be using it for streaming services.

 

[h3ro]

Can you elaborate on the model of this TCL and why it is causing a stir? I try to avoid AVS Forum and similar areas now that I finally have a TV I am happy with.

The basic gist I've seen is that the TV encompasses all the specs you'd want in a high end TV today - deep blacks, HDR/Dolby Vision support, built in OS which supports streaming services (Roku OS) at a very, very affordable price considering it's features.

Some reviews: AVS
Reference Home Theater

 

[NinjamicWZ]

Could you share your HDR+ settings? I tried it once on Netflix and it made everything cartoonish. I don't watch DVDs, so I'd only be using it for streaming services.

HDR+ never works as well for streaming, it gets an airbrushed effect like you said. Even for some of the most picturesque movies like Valhalla Rising. Maybe it's how my Samsung K85000 player upscales and outputs 1080p video vs different streaming conditions.

So just stick to Movie for streaming. This is what I use for regular HD streaming:

Picture Mode: Movie

Backlight: 12
Brightness: 55
Contrast: 75
Sharpness: 45
Color: 55

Digital Clean View: Off

Auto Motion Plus: Custom
Blur Reduction: 10
Judder Reduction: 0
LED Clear Motion: On

Smart LED: Off

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Color Tone: Warm2

Gamma: 0

Color Space: Auto

The TV has it's own settings profile for streaming media (one SDR, one HDR) that it will switch to as soon as you start playing a movie or show from one of the apps. That's when you want to adjust your settings, so it will save for streaming media, and not have you messing up settings that you like for whatever stuff you have hooked up to any given HDMI port. You don't want to screw up your perfect game IQ settings trying to make movies look better and vice versa.

It might look really subdued and dark to you at first, and you'll be like "wtf, I need it brighter" but just settle into it and I guarantee you'll be happy with it this way, when you're getting a nice range of color and blacks levels, and a really calm, painterly picture quality. If you have Netflix, go try it on Last Samurai and Doctor Strange, and I bet you'll dig it.

4K SDR media won't switch over to HDR for a separate profile, so if you're streaming 4K on Netflix or Amazon or whatever, just crank contrast up to 100, and lower sharpness to 0.

For 4K HDR content on Netflix or whatever, the settings are just a little different:

Picture Mode: Movie

Backlight: 15
Brightness: 55
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 0
Color: 65

Digital Clean View: Off

Auto Motion Plus: Off

Smart LED: Off

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Color Tone: Warm2

Gamma: 0

Color Space: Auto

If you've got Netflix 4K UHD plan, watch the cage fight in Iron Fist season 1, episode 4 and I bet you'll see exactly why these are good settings for HDR streaming.

I know you're focused on streaming, but I also use Movie mode for 4K UHD blurays. It just works better with HDR and higher resolution. HDR+ is seriously for regular 1080p, HD blurays only imo... at least on my player. Another player might upscale or output color differently.

 

[Belker]

Thanks Ninja, that's a lot of good information. I'll try the settings out.

 

[KalBalboa]

So I got this in the mail today, an adapter for my PS2 that converts component out to HDMI.

I took it out of the box, popped it into my PS2 and run the USB cable to the KS8000's breakout box, and bam! It works great! No need for auxiliary audio output either, the sound passes through the TV and input my soundbar without any fuss.

So far I've tried these without any issue or handshake snags:

• Splashdown
• Tekken Tag Tournament
• Tony Hawk Pro Skater 3

For $17 I now have a pretty damn clean signal from my PS2 to the Samsung.

 

[sugarman]

I moved to a new apartment that is pretty bright and if I don't have dynamic contrast set to medium during the day then I actually can't see shit when i'm playing Horizon.

Any other solutions to this? At night I switch it back to low/off.

 

[nikos]

Is it best to use YUV420 or YUV422 for HDR?

I've been setting it to RGB and letting it autocorrect to YUV422 for HDR games.

 

[Majima Everywhere System]

I moved to a new apartment that is pretty bright and if I don't have dynamic contrast set to medium during the day then I actually can't see shit when i'm playing Horizon.

Any other solutions to this? At night I switch it back to low/off.

Try the system, eco solution, backlight dimmer with ambient light? That's what the feature is for, and I use it with non HDR sources, but there are no fans around these parts, which I get.

 

[NinjamicWZ]

Is it best to use YUV420 or YUV422 for HDR?

I've been setting it to RGB and letting it autocorrect to YUV422 for HDR games.

YUV422 - you get the same color quality, but things seem to look sharper with better color separation.

I was using 420 for a long time like an idiot not knowing that RGB auto corrected to 422, or that there even was a 422.

I just leave it locked on RGB for everything, never switch back to Auto, though some people use Auto. I just like to be certain.

 

[nikos]

YUV422 - you get the same color quality, but things seem to look sharper with better color separation.

I was using 420 for a long time like an idiot not knowing that RGB auto corrected to 422, or that there even was a 422.

I just leave it locked on RGB for everything, never switch back to Auto, though some people use Auto. I just like to be certain.

Thanks! I'll keep it on RGB. I've also found colors to be more vivid when color space is set to Native on RGB and Auto on HDR.

 

[NinjamicWZ]

Thanks! I'll keep it on RGB. I've also found colors to be more vivid when color space is set to Native on RGB and Auto on HDR.

I tend to stick with Auto for color space, but you can definitely see at least more pronounced reds when it's set to Native, and sometimes I'll toggle it on for a game just to get a little different look or see what it looks like.

If you like it that way, go with it... that's all I've done is do what I like, what looks good for me, and take suggestions. If I try someone's suggestion out a few times and like it, I'll start incorporating it into my settings. That's how I ended up finally coming around to keeping Dynamic Contrast and Smart LED off all the time for movies.

Just you saying you like it for HDR, I might try Native on some HDR games tomorrow and see if I was sleeping on it all this time.

I'd love to use custom color space, but I know I'd be in there for the rest of my life trying to figure out all those sliders and get it right for everything.

 

[LenHendricks]

After constant fiddling over the last month, I came up with this for color space -- and keep in mind I don't have a PS4:

Auto for HDR
Native for Gaming (1080p, non-4K/HDR*)
Custom for all other content

The Custom settings I took directly from Rtings' calibration settings. It took several minutes but I plugged all of their values in, plus white balance and all of that (I also use their white balance settings for the other modes) -- and IMO the result really gives you the most satisfying color range...at least for, say, Directv/cable viewing. It makes Warm2 (which they recommend) less "yellowish", it's also less saturated/overpowering than "Native" but warmer and better balanced than "Auto". Again, though, I only use this for SDR as Auto & Native work better on those other modes. Still I think it's worth a shot to try because it results in a terrific image when I'm watching broadcast content, Blu-Ray, or Vudu and Netflix 1080p stuff.

Smart LED I have set to Low on pretty much everything. Too much "blooming" from light to dark scenes when playing back a Blu-Ray. The scene in ALIEN when Dallas in the air ducts works when Smart LED is set Low, but High makes it almost unwatchable. In general, IMO Low is a good compromise between having it off and having it set too aggressive on High...but maybe I'd feel differently if I was gaming in 4K.

Dynamic Contrast is off for everything -- except UHD playback. I still find I need it, albeit set to Medium, when playing back 4K UHD discs on my Oppo. Image should pop more than it does and I've read DC behaves differently on HDR/4K than it does SDR, where it clearly does impact the image to a negative degree. I don't go aggressive using it but Medium or Low seems to help a 4k image that seems a little more washed out than it should be otherwise.

*I haven't used 4K, HDR for gaming yet so I know that will be a whole other deal. I'll deal with that when I get to Scorpio or whatever lies ahead

 

[NinjamicWZ]

After constant fiddling over the last month, I came up with this for color space -- and keep in mind I don't have a PS4:

Auto for HDR
Native for Gaming (1080p, non-4K/HDR*)
Custom for all other content

The Custom settings I took directly from Rtings' calibration settings. It took several minutes but I plugged all of their values in, plus white balance and all of that (I also use their white balance settings for the other modes) -- and IMO the result really gives you the most satisfying color range...at least for, say, Directv/cable viewing. It makes Warm2 (which they recommend) less "yellowish", it's also less saturated/overpowering than "Native" but warmer and better balanced than "Auto". Again, though, I only use this for SDR as Auto & Native work better on those other modes. Still I think it's worth a shot to try because it results in a terrific image when I'm watching broadcast content, Blu-Ray, or Vudu and Netflix 1080p stuff.

Smart LED I have set to Low on pretty much everything. Too much "blooming" from light to dark scenes when playing back a Blu-Ray. The scene in ALIEN when Dallas in the air ducts works when Smart LED is set Low, but High makes it almost unwatchable. In general, IMO Low is a good compromise between having it off and having it set too aggressive on High...but maybe I'd feel differently if I was gaming in 4K.

Dynamic Contrast is off for everything -- except UHD playback. I still find I need it, albeit set to Medium, when playing back 4K UHD discs on my Oppo. Image should pop more than it does and I've read DC behaves differently on HDR/4K than it does SDR, where it clearly does impact the image to a negative degree. I don't go aggressive using it but Medium or Low seems to help a 4k image that seems a little more washed out than it should be otherwise.

*I haven't used 4K, HDR for gaming yet so I know that will be a whole other deal. I'll deal with that when I get to Scorpio or whatever lies ahead

Sounds like you've got it figured it out, but I would recommend at some point trying Dynamic Contrast OFF for 4K UHD too. Up until this week I thought I needed it to really even see the HDR, but I watched Dredd this week and it made me finally turn it off for good, because it was giving me kind of a chromatic aberration outline around everything.

The image ended up seeming perfect the whole movie... still sparkling glimmer in the slow mo drug scenes shots, still a luminescent fireworks show from the gatling gun scene, lots of rich color and definition in skin tones, costume work, hair etc.

Then I watched Pacific Rim afterwards, which is an absolute showstopper for luminescent HDR FX on every inch of the screen, and it was popping out of the screen, still eye searingly bright without Dynamic Contrast or Smart LED. Been testing it with other nice show cases like Batman Vs Superman, The Revenant, Great Wall, Hacksaw Ridge, Planet Earth II etc. Works fine; still HDR, but a better picture consistency all throughout.

I'm 100% convinced I don't need it on because when I tested it with BvS, Batman's eyes still glow in that Superman fight. Except now everything has a consistent level of luminescence, doesn't overpower or cloud out the great color range in everything else. No gimmicky highs and boring lows. I've used that fight scene as a reference since January as one of the first UHD's I got.

The Oppo may be different than the Samsung K8500 and you gotta like what you're seeing, but just friendly advice from another guy who really wanted his settings right and constantly messes with them. I spent the last 6 months swearing I couldn't get much HDR gains without DC on. It's been a long process, whittled down over the course of 30 or so UHD releases. I didn't like when people nitpicked me about my settings when I thought I got them perfect, but the audio video cinephile dudes on the 4K UHD forums who were telling me about Dynamic Contrast really were right all this time.

Try these settings if you want:

4K UHD Blu Ray

Picture Mode: Movie

Backlight: 15
Brightness: 75 (maybe 45... 55 for late night, low light conditions, but that gives me eye strain personally and makes stuff like Hacksaw Ridge look like the backlight is turned off)
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 0
Color: 65 (this used to be too high with DC/LED on, and cause oversaturation, but it's just enough now... no red skin, neon grass etc)

Digital Clean View: Off

Auto Motion Plus: Off

Smart LED: Off

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Color Tone: Warm 2

Gamma: 0

Color Space: Auto

Of course, your player might output the image slightly different than mine, and we all see things differently. If this doesn't work for you, I get it.

Keep your white balancing however you have it, because they say every TV is different and you probably figured more out about it than I did from the resources you used. I only messed with white balancing early on, thought I liked it, but started to notice I made my games a little too purple and then just reset it back to default since.

 

[AntMurda]

I just bought a KS8000 65" (US) and realize the feet mounted on the tv are too far apart to fit on my console. But i just read there is an inner position that brings the feet closer than the stock photo? can anyone confirm?

 

[chippy13]

I just bought a KS8000 65" (US) and realize the feet mounted on the tv are too far apart to fit on my console. But i just read there is an inner position that brings the feet closer than the stock photo? can anyone confirm?

Yes there are 2 positions on the 65"

 

[AntMurda]

Yes there are 2 positions on the 65"

Thank you! Hopefully this does the trick.

 

[mckmas8808]

So regarding the different panels the KS8000 seems to come with, I picked up a 65" from Costco recently and after snooping around the TV, found that it has an FB03 panel, which is a newer panel.

Not much information out there about these panels, do you know of a resource?

I just got that same TV from Costco a few weeks ago too! About to move in, in a few days. Anybody get any info on this new panel yet?

People who can see the loss of detail with dynamic contrast on "low" can likely tell the difference between 320 kbps and FLAC.

OH!!! So it's like that? Then I'm good, because I literally can't tell any difference between 320 kbps and FLAC.

 

[LenHendricks]

Sounds like you've got it figured it out, but I would recommend at some point trying Dynamic Contrast OFF for 4K UHD too

I have my backlight set lower (I have it at 12 for HDR, 8 for SDR), so I will try your settings for Dynamic Contrast, turn it off, and turn the backlight up. Again I'm only using DC on UHD but I've seen enough discs, stuff like Goodfellas, Ghostbusters that really seem like it's necessary. The image is a little bit drab and dim otherwise for HDR content coming out of the Oppo, at least on those titles.

No question I can see where the Dynamic Contrast is screwy with SDR content, but the HDR on UHD seems like it's a help. I've seen some calibration people on the AVSForum likewise say that, so I dunno, I get conflicting opinions on it.

All of my other settings are very close to yours too (Movie, Warm2, etc.). Brightness I have at 45 for everything, Contrast 90-95, I do have sharpness up just a tad (0-10 depending on source) because a few things look soft at times...so pretty much in the same region on everything else. I feel good about my settings outside of the use of DC, so I'll turn it off for HDR, turn up the Backlight like you suggest and see where I'm at.

 

[Imp the Dimp]

OH!!! So it's like that? Then I'm good, because I literally can't tell any difference between 320 kbps and FLAC.

Nor can anybody else. I've grown very wary of internet tech snobbery honestly. I'm not saying people are purposely misguiding you or anyone (I do think they believe what they say) but it's best to try for yourself. If you think you can see the loss of detail with DC on low, then calm your mind and don't use it.

 

[Syrus]

HDR content needs dynamic contrast or it looks too dim. Yes you can mess with gamma maybe.

DC in HDR looks perfect and doesnt blow out colors.

I leave DC on even for SDR gaming but thats preference.

Backlight 8
Brightness 47
Contrast 95
Sharpness 10
Color 50
Auto color space
Warm 1. I cant do warm 2 ever.

No white or 2 point balance.

Smart LED low for SDR , high for HDR
Gamma 0
All motion and eco options off

Set looks bloody amazing in HDR and 4k for sure.

 

[NinjamicWZ]

I have my backlight set lower (I have it at 12 for HDR, 8 for SDR), so I will try your settings for Dynamic Contrast, turn it off, and turn the backlight up. Again I'm only using DC on UHD but I've seen enough discs, stuff like Goodfellas, Ghostbusters that really seem like it's necessary. The image is a little bit drab and dim otherwise for HDR content coming out of the Oppo, at least on those titles.

No question I can see where the Dynamic Contrast is screwy with SDR content, but the HDR on UHD seems like it's a help. I've seen some calibration people on the AVSForum likewise say that, so I dunno, I get conflicting opinions on it.

All of my other settings are very close to yours too (Movie, Warm2, etc.). Brightness I have at 45 for everything, Contrast 90-95, I do have sharpness up just a tad (0-10 depending on source) because a few things look soft at times...so pretty much in the same region on everything else. I feel good about my settings outside of the use of DC, so I'll turn it off for HDR, turn up the Backlight like you suggest and see where I'm at.

Yeah, you know what you're doing. Goodfellas is the main one where it's actually an incredible version of the film, so much more detailed and contoured in every way, but at your usual settings that work for every other movie, it can look like it has crushed blacks and probably need the gamma to go up to 1 or 2. There's the scene were Ray Liotta just gets out of prison and is talking with Pauly in the back yard... at low gamma, the tree has no bark - it's just black. Couldn't see the bark until I turned it up to 2. Now with Dynamic Contrast and Smart LED off, it's legible at 0 gamma and I don't have to mess with it. With the decision making features off, the TV's software isn't going "oh, I better make this scene pitch black because there's a light bulb on the ceiling" and whatnot.

I was using brightness at 35 for the first month (crushing my blacks), then 45 since probably March, but kept getting eye strain late in the evening from the light source bloom thing you were talking about in your other post. I actually settled on 75 after turning Dynamic Contrast and Smart LED off after throwing Hacksaw Ridge in (there's the big bombing scene that's always good for checking things out, good for the green in their uniforms, and color in all their faces too). Without DC on, Hacksaw Ridge looks like the backlight is on 0 when the brightness is at 45. So I begrudgingly cranked it up to 75, and it looked good again. Then threw Pacific Rim and Batman Vs Superman back in, and saw it only had positive effects, not negative ones.

blah blah, anyway just explaining my process of how I got there. I think I was just trying to get my blacks super dark and making everything too dark in the process.

I'm glad you use already low backlight 'cause that means you know it doesn't need to be maxed out for movies. I went with 15 for UHD (12 for HD) from testing it out awhile back on this one part of Planet Earth II. I kept looping a little scaly, green lizard scurrying across some moss covered bark, and watching what the backlight was doing. The difference in brightness between 15 and 20 is almost imperceivable, but I swear going from 15 to 16 noticeably loses detail in color separation and black range. Seemed like brightening up one green was making said green look the same as another green, when the purpose of HDR is to have all the greens ever.. more or less. Same for the black range, I think.

I'm no audio video tech expert or anything, just what I've figured out for myself and this TV makes me hype. Everyone's got different settings, lighting conditions (my apartment is super bright in the day, and my indoor lighting really dim at night), viewing distance, players etc. There's no "wrong" settings, for sure.

 

[kmfdmpig]

I just bought a KS8000 65" (US) and realize the feet mounted on the tv are too far apart to fit on my console. But i just read there is an inner position that brings the feet closer than the stock photo? can anyone confirm?

Yes, for the 60 and 65 inch versions there is an inner and outer position. That picture shows the outer position. Since I'm beaten badly:
Here's the link:
https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4Pro/comments/5megfm/anyone_know_the_width_of_the_stand_of_the_samsung/

It sounds like the inner position has the legs about 39 inches apart.

 

[MrNineties]

Where would one find the Panel Type, and what is the better panel to own? I've got a 65. Peeps have referenced AVS but I must be blind...

 

[nikos]

Bit of an odd request, but would anybody be willing to sell the box/packaging for their 55" KS8000?

I'm going to be moving soon and I'm really worried about damaging the set. Had to toss my box due to NYC apartment sizing.

 

[Belker]

Where would one find the Panel Type, and what is the better panel to own? I've got a 65. Peeps have referenced AVS but I must be blind...

In the EU, I think it must be on the back of the TV somewhere if that helps. I've read in the US it's sometimes in the detail on the side of the box-stickers.

Are you in a position to change the TV for one with a different panel? If not, knowing what the panel is might be more frustrating than pleasing, if you don't have the one you want.