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Building an Arcade Machine! (new updates!)
- Thread starter MRORANGE
- Start date
Thought I would post the bartop I made from an iCade to offer any inspiration/ideas you might use!
That is some amazing work! iCade is a fantastic option, I wish I could use it, since most of it's done for you, alas the monitor is at least 1cm bigger than the iCade.
Did you use acylic for the marquess around the screen?
Raspberry Pi through composite to scart might be an option.
I did. Super easy to cut and mount.
Actually, you would be surprised. That little cab gets so much play time from guests. Once a game is up and running, you forget the size of the screen and it rocks. Great thing is, the way I designed the mountings, I can replace with a bigger screen at any time, just print a new bezel on photo paper, and slap it in the box. Nothing else needs to change at all!
LightningXCE
Member
Looking slick!
Man that UI is beautiful too heh
Man that UI is beautiful too heh
The Elite
BOSS
You can download Emulation Station to a PC right now. I use it.
It's the best there is IMO.
Okay sent my drawings out to a few websites to get a quote, visited two local stores, unfortunately both did laser and not CNC so are unable to cut 12mm MDF. If the quotes are too high,I might have to rethink my design or find another way of making the parts.
nice.
nice.
On the other hand if you build one then decide you want two players down the line, all of a sudden you have an excuse to build another one and link them up!
Besides the utility of 1 vs 2 players, another thing to think about is the size and overall design. With 1 player you can get pretty compact if you want while keeping normal looking proportions (by classic cab standards at least). With 2 players you have to widen up a bit to make it usable for both players, and at that point you have more options as far as what to do with the extra space you'll be taking up, like bigger screen or wider proportions or just scale up the whole thing.
Actually I guess another design that'd work is the old 4 player cabs with the wide control panel that stuck out the sides, that might look ok as a 2 player mini cab if you want to keep a smallish screen/main body.
suikodan
Member
Thought I would post the bartop I made from an iCade to offer any inspiration/ideas you might use!
What's the red button on the left? Any link to buy that kind of press button?
Just a push button I purchased off of amazon. Wired it in as the ESC button. No way to accidentally push it while playing!
SF3 can be run easily if you find the correct 'dump', Killer Instinct I'm not sure.
For my own picade I am looking to do a 2 player controller setup with a trackball. It seems that the trackball is a pain to add. I am looking at this one but it looks a litte pricey.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Player-Ar...572?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4dfca104
I think I will get it so I don't have to cut wood myself, or just buy that $200 X-arcade controller.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Player-Ar...572?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4dfca104
I think I will get it so I don't have to cut wood myself, or just buy that $200 X-arcade controller.
I have a mad katz 360 arcade stick for my picade. Its plug and play using retropie. That would be a super easy option and cheaper since it uses USB.
They're not super-complicated shapes, so why not use a jigsaw? Will mean some hand working to get a good edge, but your time costs nothing, right?
zorlaczerohero
Banned
Yeah, I'd invest in a jigsaw and a little sander, easy enough to use, do a few practice cuts to get the hang of various shapes.
This is mine from another thread.
Externally I haven't moved on much, just trying to get the software perfect, but this is Windows based, I swear I've had every OS known to mankind on this at some point. Still doesn't feel right. I wish I could get hold of the build they use on the 4000 in 1 chinese systems, got a friend with one and whilst it's not too pretty everything works really well. I have been thinking about switching it to a Pi but one of my prerequisites is a working version of Killer Instinct, which I don't think the Pi is managing yet.
Most important is to have fun building it, nothing better than when friends come round and see it for the first time and then spend 5 hours with a massive smile on their faces saying "When I was a kid I spent all my dinner money on this game!".
Don't have the tools or space to cut it unfortunately
Ah, posted whilst I was submitting. The tools would probably be cheaper than getting it cut, it's just the space that's the problem, can't help you there unless you're in Australia and want to use my Garage!
Cloggerdude
Member
I'm thinking about attempting this as well. However, the screens that I've seen haven't really impressed me that much. Someone suggested that it might be possible to use:
iPad 2 Screen - $46.99
LCD Screen Controller - $46.36
Not sure how much OP's monitor cost, but I assume that the option above is a little more expensive overall. However, I know the iPad 2 had a pretty nice monitor, so I wonder if maybe this would be a better quality option?
That being said, I'm not even sure that this could work with the iCade setup. Any thoughts from the more technically versed?
iPad 2 Screen - $46.99
LCD Screen Controller - $46.36
Not sure how much OP's monitor cost, but I assume that the option above is a little more expensive overall. However, I know the iPad 2 had a pretty nice monitor, so I wonder if maybe this would be a better quality option?
That being said, I'm not even sure that this could work with the iCade setup. Any thoughts from the more technically versed?
As the iCade is designed to hold an iPad, just the screen would most definitely fit. Before ordering those parts, however, I would suggest you search to see if someone on the web has a working setup in any project so that you verify it works...
Don't have the tools or space to cut it unfortunately
Where are you based? Might be a Make/Hackerspace you could use?
https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/List_of_Hacker_Spaces
Ramzastrife
Member
Amazing thread, subbed to watch the progress.
Boooom. My head just exploded. Thank you for showing me this awesomeness. Closest one to me is about 45 minutes, but even at that, I hope to be able to use it some day.
Boooom. My head just exploded. Thank you for showing me this awesomeness. Closest one to me is about 45 minutes, but even at that, I hope to be able to use it some day.
I'm actually not far from the London Hackspace in Hackney, hmm.,,
You should join. I was a member for a while and their facilities are excellent.
If you switched materials to plywood and went a bit thinner, you could probably cut the pieces on their laser cutter. But bear in mind you'd have to wait for your membership to go through and then get trained on the machine - you're looking at a couple of weeks. If it's just jigsaw and sanding though, you could get going as soon as the bank transfer clears.
Re: jigsaw, what'd be the method to cut the inset stuff (or the U shape cutouts), just start with a small drill hole to start and thin saw bit to cut from there?
Edit: some more inspiration for anyone thinking about going the candy cab route:
http://blog.attractmo.de/post/110386593515/the-miniaturized-astro-city-weve-all-been-waiting
The iPad is semi ideal for retro stuff just cause it's a 4:3 screen if nothing else, and it's good for multi angle use if you go with a rotatable setup. There's also the retina iPad screens...I vaguely recall someone (alamone maybe?) hooking up his arcade stuff to one of those but hell if I know how, or if it was even at native resolution (2048x1536). If you could do that you could use the extra pixels to possibly get a nice screen filter going.
Edit: some more inspiration for anyone thinking about going the candy cab route:
http://blog.attractmo.de/post/110386593515/the-miniaturized-astro-city-weve-all-been-waiting
Drill a hoe in two diagonally opposite corners, then run the jigsaw along each side to the other corners. Be very careful not to overrun. Then go back and tidy up the drill corners.
Practice on scarps first
If you go to LHS, their woodworking group meets on Wednesdays from 19:00 - introduce yourself and your project on their mailing list and I'm sure you'll get some good advice.
Got a few quotes today, one was for £84 from Sussex, including delivery which isn't bad for a sheet that is 900x700mm that needs to be cut. The other place charged £160 and it was in London!!!
I'm getting paid on Monday hopefully. but I think I will take the London HackSpace route. It's a 15 minute walk so there is really no excuse.
The main benefit is that I don't have to gamble as much with the design and I can have multiple shots at creating the perfect cabinet.
Using this website I was able to find a place that does cheap MDF
http://www.mdfcuttosize.com/
I'm getting paid on Monday hopefully. but I think I will take the London HackSpace route. It's a 15 minute walk so there is really no excuse.
The main benefit is that I don't have to gamble as much with the design and I can have multiple shots at creating the perfect cabinet.
Using this website I was able to find a place that does cheap MDF
http://www.mdfcuttosize.com/
KojiKnight
Member
I just got my promotion and I've been trying to think of what I can do to 'treat' myself... and a PiCade is looking to be a project I'd like to do. I had an original raspberrypi and never got around to doing anything with it (and have since, sadly, lost it).
While I'd love to do a 2 person barcade using an LCD screen (lower power, lighter so it'd be easier to move) I'm thinking my best bet may be to start with something smaller.
I was thinking as a first build working from the icade like someone previously posted, how's the setup on that for this? It looks like it's got a lot of empty space and while it does have buttons already built in I'm seeing reviews that the quality of them have been pretty mixed.
While I'd love to do a 2 person barcade using an LCD screen (lower power, lighter so it'd be easier to move) I'm thinking my best bet may be to start with something smaller.
I was thinking as a first build working from the icade like someone previously posted, how's the setup on that for this? It looks like it's got a lot of empty space and while it does have buttons already built in I'm seeing reviews that the quality of them have been pretty mixed.
Truthfully it would be easier to just make your own cabinet rather than retro fit anything.
KojiKnight
Member
Be that the case, are there any generally good places to order complete barcades or pre-cut kits? I'm not too worried about the technical aspect of hooking up and setting up the controls and what not, but I'd rather spend a bit of money to get a prebuilt case versus risk building and screwing it up myself.
There are tons of kits online.
http://shop.harumancustoms.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=59
http://shop.harumancustoms.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=59
Damn, I want to build my own at some point...but at those prices it's really tempting to just buy one of those.
This questions is aimed at cRIPticon or anyone who owns a iCade.
Speaking with a friend today he recommend I took the LCD apart and do a measurement of the screen width without the case, it was 22.5 cm
The iCade cabinet is 24cm wide, but that's including the side panels, what's the maximum width for something to fir there?
EDIT: I think the monitor might not make it, spacing is 21cm I think according to another diy project.
On other news, the monitor is a lot smaller without the casing surrounding it.
Speaking with a friend today he recommend I took the LCD apart and do a measurement of the screen width without the case, it was 22.5 cm
The iCade cabinet is 24cm wide, but that's including the side panels, what's the maximum width for something to fir there?
EDIT: I think the monitor might not make it, spacing is 21cm I think according to another diy project.
On other news, the monitor is a lot smaller without the casing surrounding it.
Sorry, missed this. It won't fit the iCade.
Sorry for not posting that much, I wanted to have something physical before posting again, otherwise it's just boring read posts about planning/concepts and such drivel.
So I had my first go at using a laser cutter.
This is what I got
Only took 2 minutes to cut as well, really tempted to learn CAD programs now really impressed with the results using 6nm mdf, really sturdy and strong, no flex, will apply a acrylic layer on top, probably white. or red. my only two complaints are that I should use flat screw bolts, while the current ones are not uncomfortable they are still annoying when playing. The other annoyance are the length of happ buttons, I doubt I can fit buttons on the side as they will hit the other buttonss due to size (280mmx140mm). I really like it though, it's compact but still has plenty of spacing for fingers. I was really scared I screwed up the joystick mount but it was a perfect fit
I also solved the 12v to 5v problem! Costs less than £3 and no rainbow square yet so far
I'm going to buy a sheet of MDF and cut out the rest of the parts probably next week., wish me luck!
So I had my first go at using a laser cutter.
This is what I got
Only took 2 minutes to cut as well, really tempted to learn CAD programs now
really impressed with the results using 6nm mdf, really sturdy and strong, no flex, will apply a acrylic layer on top, probably white. or red. my only two complaints are that I should use flat screw bolts, while the current ones are not uncomfortable they are still annoying when playing. The other annoyance are the length of happ buttons, I doubt I can fit buttons on the side as they will hit the other buttonss due to size (280mmx140mm). I really like it though, it's compact but still has plenty of spacing for fingers. I was really scared I screwed up the joystick mount but it was a perfect fit I also solved the 12v to 5v problem! Costs less than £3 and no rainbow square yet so far
I'm going to buy a sheet of MDF and cut out the rest of the parts probably next week., wish me luck!
Dictator93
Member
Just discovering this. I love this, just love it!
Nice. Looks like LHS@ machine. Laser cutters are magic
Sure are! I'm getting hooked into making other stuff with it.
EDIT: just noticed a mistake in the SVG drawing I posted. >_<
Barkley's Justice
Member
Did scanlines really look as they appear in emulated games? It's been far too long for me to actually remember. Emulators always seem way more pronounced with the scanlines. I can't tell if they're accurate representations or not.
Scan lines existed, but when trying to replicate them with modern hawrdware it often appears more apparent than what was the norm back then.
This is a good thread on the matter:
I actually enjoy such drivel! The thought process behind whatever end decisions can be interesting and informative for others that might be going through the same thing at some point. If you have a blog or something it'd be nice to do build progress updates if you're up to it if you don't want to post about that stuff here.
(Course whenever I've thought about doing that type of thing myself with any project, I just end up with a bunch of pictures and get too lazy to write about it all)
They can vary quite a bit, and keep in mind there's some extra factors to take into account though, like what screen and connection you played on back then (not all scanlines looked alike), what screen you're playing on now (particularly resolution), and viewing distance plays a part too. I've never seen it myself, but I'm curious how various filters look on high res displays, cause that extra resolution could be used to get more detail with replicating the brightness and color bleed that can happen with CRTs.
Personally I keep it simple, I just usually do a lightly smooth scale with a light to moderate scanline filter. Hard scaling looks ok too, but a little too pixel perfect for me when the tubes had some softness to them. And scanline strength I use can vary depending on size/distance, but my general rule is to not get too dark with them to the point they might get distracting.
Ultimately just go with what you think looks good, it's another facet of emulation. Or just buy one of those fancy CRTs.
Is that screen using an interpolating filter (along with the scanlines) or did the text originally look that bad? Interpolation is something that can make things kinda look like ass, so do anything as far as scanlines and basic scaling, just don't do the fancy interpolation stuff.Scan lines existed, but when trying to replicate them with modern hawrdware it often appears more apparent than what was the norm back then.
This is a good thread on the matter:
(That screen in general looks a bit off to me, like it looks like interpolated scale, then the scanline effect doesn't look like the proper size/resolution cause it's on the scaled size?)
Probably going to post here, I think the only things I skipped here were tons of drawings of the design, most of them were just trying to figure out dimensions of the internals and joint placement which is quite tedious.
Yes to the above, I think in that example I used the mame overlay scanline, which I think tried to scale 1080p scan-lines on top.
Micro update, started cutting acylic for a test, the material I used wasn't of good quality so didn't take pics. the other problem was that it was too thick, the combo of a 6mm mdf backboard and 6mm acylic left very little grip on the stick. I could proabbly get something like this:
Most likely I'll just 4mm mdf for the top plate and 2mm acrylic layer on top.
Most likely I'll just 4mm mdf for the top plate and 2mm acrylic layer on top.
Interesting, what kind of stick is that and do you know the recommended mounting depth? It looks like a Japanese stick but those are 23-24mm. Extenders would work if you want it higher, but it'll change the feel a bit cause the tilt distance will be longer and might make the tension feel weaker too.
It's made in China so it's a unknown brand, which isn't helpful considering no instructions were given with it. It works well however. The main oncern with using thinner MDF is that I am worried over time the tension will rip the pre-cut holes making the stick loose. Maybe I'm just being a bit too paranoid in that prospect.
