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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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scogoth

Member
Louis Cyphre said:
True. I was looking at their website and it's like a kid at the candy store. I would like to get a computer under $1200 including Windows 7 professional but without a monitor. Do you go with intel or AMD? Do you go with Geoforce or Radeon? From what I gather 4GB of ram is sufficient.

I will probably buy most of my games on Steam and I see Steam supports PC and Mac now. However the Macs seem to lack big time in video cards.

Anyways it's obvious i'm a complete noob to all of this.

Read OP. Answers a lot of your questions
 
scogoth said:
Read OP. Answers a lot of your questions

I've read some but it's a lot to take in. I guess the best thing to do is set a firm price limit. Anyways it's all very educational to me. I seen another thread where people showed some shots and some are simply breathtaking.
 

Moussi

Member
Just put my PC together and everything is working fine. Howver rivatuner isn't getting access to my fans and i can't change the fan speeds because apparently the version of catalyst is too up to date. What's an alternative for changing the fan speed of a 6850.
 
Moussi said:
Just put my PC together and everything is working fine. Howver rivatuner isn't getting access to my fans and i can't change the fan speeds because apparently the version of catalyst is too up to date. What's an alternative for changing the fan speed of a 6850.

MSI Afterburner
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Cyrillus said:
My generic hard plastic mouse pad finally separated from its rubber base, and so I picked up a SteeSeries QcK pad. Unfortunately, it doesn't work well with my MX Revolution, and upon further research it has to do with the laser optics not tracking well on cloth surfaces. Any recommendations for a decent hard surface pad that works specifically with laser optics? My desk isn't really an option.
rat padz

Used it with my MX Revolution.
 

ShaunBRS

Member
I was farting around earlier today when I started thinking about what it might be like to own a PC consistent with the century I live in. I concluded it might be pretty nice, so I'm here to grovel for reassurance that I am, in fact, capable of buying the necessary parts. The OP was very helpful, but perhaps someone who knows what the fuck they're doing would care to look at this, on the off chance that I'm actually stupid.

Your Current Specs: c. 1998. Sufficient for Minesweper.
Budget: £800 or so, UK.
Main Use: Gaming.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p. Not planning to upgrade.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: BF3.
Are reusing any parts?: Nope.
When will you build?: As soon as possible.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes.

And this is what I've got lined up. It doesn't really stray very far from the $1000 build in the OP, but it's my first time doing this so any stupid mistakes you can point out to me/opinions/advice before I pull the trigger on it would be greatly appreciated, specifically regarding the GPU (It ends up around £825 with the 560, but if the 570 is worth it that's ok too).

peZU9.gif
 
Looking for some recommendations on external hard drives. Its primary purpose will be to store media to playback via USB on my Roku and for some network backups, so something quiet and reliable is what I'm looking for.

I'm planning on buying this router and hooking the hard drive up to it for some simple NAS functionality.
 
ShaunBRS said:
I was farting around earlier today when I started thinking about what it might be like to own a PC consistent with the century I live in. I concluded it might be pretty nice, so I'm here to grovel for reassurance that I am, in fact, capable of buying the necessary parts. The OP was very helpful, but perhaps someone who knows what the fuck they're doing would care to look at this, on the off chance that I'm actually stupid.

Your Current Specs: c. 1998. Sufficient for Minesweper.
Budget: £800 or so, UK.
Main Use: Gaming.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p. Not planning to upgrade.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: BF3.
Are reusing any parts?: Nope.
When will you build?: As soon as possible.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes.

And this is what I've got lined up. It doesn't really stray very far from the $1000 build in the OP, but it's my first time doing this so any stupid mistakes you can point out to me/opinions/advice before I pull the trigger on it would be greatly appreciated, specifically regarding the GPU (It ends up around £825 with the 560, but if the 570 is worth it that's ok too).

peZU9.gif

Looking good and if i were you id get the GTX570.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
ShaunBRS said:
I was farting around earlier today when I started thinking about what it might be like to own a PC consistent with the century I live in. I concluded it might be pretty nice, so I'm here to grovel for reassurance that I am, in fact, capable of buying the necessary parts. The OP was very helpful, but perhaps someone who knows what the fuck they're doing would care to look at this, on the off chance that I'm actually stupid.

And this is what I've got lined up. It doesn't really stray very far from the $1000 build in the OP, but it's my first time doing this so any stupid mistakes you can point out to me/opinions/advice before I pull the trigger on it would be greatly appreciated, specifically regarding the GPU (It ends up around £825 with the 560, but if the 570 is worth it that's ok too).

peZU9.gif
Looks good to me. 560Ti is the pricing sweetspot. 570 a touch more, 580 for crazies.
If you find the 560Ti not adequate there should be new GPU launch about when BF3 launches.

Note that that stock heatsink 570 will be quite loud compared to the 560Ti.
peppermints said:
Looking for some recommendations on external hard drives. Its primary purpose will be to store media to playback via USB on my Roku and for some network backups, so something quiet and reliable is what I'm looking for.

I'm planning on buying this router and hooking the hard drive up to it for some simple NAS functionality.
Most externals with SATA -> USB adapter just die. See it all the time.
I'd buy a good harddrive and use eSATA with an enclosure if you can.
 

Tobe

Member
well im looking to replace my main drive(Barracuda 7200.12 500gb)because well i need more space and would kinda like a faster boot.
i use my main drive for programs and games and my other 1tb seagate for media.
i dont use raid nor would spent $$$$ on a ssd.

im looking for the best 750gb+ hdd (i can only use sata 3 )

help me gaf
 
Hazaro said:
Most externals with SATA -> USB adapter just die. See it all the time.
I'd buy a good harddrive and use eSATA with an enclosure if you can.

Sounds good. How important is RPMs for something like that?
 
build complete
photo-9-1.jpg

Intel i7 2600k
Evga GTX 460
Gskill 8 gb ddr 3
WD 2TB HDD
Intel Z68 mobo
Cooler Master 500w PSU
Silverstone ATX HTPC case

amazing so far, getting used to windows 7 after a few years of mac osx

and shit this thing is near silent when on, gpu gets a little loud when under load but compared to my last gaming pc from 2006, its like night and day
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
·feist· said:
And you thoughts on this feist?

Just seems like most known facts about why you don't put heavy data loads on SSDs and why firmware and how drives store and do clean up is important.
Nothing new here. OS + programs on SSD. Data on other drives.

I didn't thoroughly read it since the translation wasn't that good, hopefully another sites gives a response to it.

*And my Intel 320 120GB which is 5 months old with 30% free space. Granted it tells nothing about the cycling.
Sustained Sequential Read
Up to 270 MB/s (Mine is 272MB/s)

Sustained Sequential Write
Up to 130 MB/s (Mine is 132 MB/s)
 

Stuggernaut

Grandma's Chippy
Possibly silly question....

SSD drives are really spendy for the most part, and not huge (lots of people seem to get 80-120gb).

What do people put on them when they do get them? Is it media? Windows?

I know they are fast...but what is the priority for software installed on them.

Just wondering.
 
Mr Pockets said:
Possibly silly question....

SSD drives are really spendy for the most part, and not huge (lots of people seem to get 80-120gb).

What do people put on them when they do get them? Is it media? Windows?

I know they are fast...but what is the priority for software installed on them.

Just wondering.

I believe the general order of "importance" (which of course varies from user-to-user) is:

1) Operating System
2) Web browser
3) Commonly used programs, such as Microsoft Office, Photoshop, etc
4) Most frequently used video games
5) Less frequently used video games

I've never heard of anyone putting pictures, music, or movies on SSDs, but I'm sure that happens.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Mr Pockets said:
Possibly silly question....

SSD drives are really spendy for the most part, and not huge (lots of people seem to get 80-120gb).

What do people put on them when they do get them? Is it media? Windows?

I know they are fast...but what is the priority for software installed on them.

Just wondering.
OS and programs. Everything zippy and instant. It's a luxury item.
 
derder said:
So my PSU is dead.

I will be running 2x 6950s and an i5 this fall. Should I shoot for 850W or stick with 750W?
750W would handle that fine. From CF 6950 reviews I've seen the systems tend to draw about 500W. OC'ing both with an OC'd CPU would put it in the low 600 range at full load.

If you have the money to spend go with the 850W. No harm in having a high capacity PSU. It'd probably be more quiet since the load on it would be proportionally lower.
 

Azadi

Neo Member
First time poster, long time lurker :)
After much thought, I've finally decided to get a new system and make the jump from console to PC gaming.

Your Current Specs: Intel C2D E4500 2.20ghz, 2gb DDR2 RAM, Gigabyte VM900M, Nvidia 9400gt (Nothing worth salvaging)
Budget: $1500-$2000 (AUS)
Main Use: Gaming, general use, emulation
Monitor Resolution: Will upgrade to 1920x1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Deus Ex HR, The Witcher 2, BF3, Skyrim
Are reusing any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: Ideally within a month, can wait longer if it's really worth it.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes

This is what I'm thinking of getting and I'm hoping that you all can let me know if there's anything wrong with it or if I save or improve anywhere.

Intel Core i5 2500K - $225.00

ASUS P8Z68-V Pro Motherboard B3 - $249.00 (Is a Z68 board necessary? Or could I just get a P67 board instead? I'm asking because I'm not going to use the on-board graphics at all and I heard that SRT is pretty much useless with large capacity SDDs)

ASUS GeForce GTX 570 DirectCU II 1280MB - $379.00*

Fractal Design Define R3 Black $145.00

Corsair HX-750 Power Supply -$189.00

G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 - $85.00

Lite-On IHAS324 24x DVDRW - $29.00

CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ CPU Cooler - $33

Crucial M4 SSD 128GB - $279

Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB HD103SJ - $59

Monitor - Any good 24 inch monitor recommendations for around $200 or less?

Total - $1672 ($1872 with monitor)

* Was thinking of going with this instead of the 570, overkill? Would the 3gb version last longer? I mean the price isn't really a problem but if there isn't too much of a difference between 570 and 580 performance why bother right? Also I've heard you can overclock the 570 to 580 performance?

Thanks.
 

Darklord

Banned
Azadi said:
* Was thinking of going with this instead of the 570, overkill? Would the 3gb version last longer? I mean the price isn't really a problem but if there isn't too much of a difference between 570 and 580 performance why bother right? Also I've heard you can overclock the 570 to 580 performance?

Thanks.


There isn't much difference at only 1920x1080. I've been looking too. From what I've seen the 580 3gb aren't that great. Still powerful but very little difference between the 1.5gb and 3gb cards. Some of the tests the 1.5gb even won. Some people on here say the 3gb will be useful for future proofing but all the reviews and tests I've read just really don't seem like it's worth it yet.

I ended up buying the ASUS GeForce GTX 570 DirectCU II. It can run everything well. The money saved can be put towards an upgrade later on anyway(which would obviously be a superior card to the 580).

Check the comparison here too: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/306?vs=305 (That's the 1.5gb model though)
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Azadi said:
First time poster, long time lurker :)
After much thought, I've finally decided to get a new system and make the jump from console to PC gaming.

Your Current Specs: Intel C2D E4500 2.20ghz, 2gb DDR2 RAM, Gigabyte VM900M, Nvidia 9400gt (Nothing worth salvaging)
Budget: $1500-$2000 (AUS)
Main Use: Gaming, general use, emulation
Monitor Resolution: Will upgrade to 1920x1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Deus Ex HR, The Witcher 2, BF3, Skyrim
Are reusing any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: Ideally within a month, can wait longer if it's really worth it.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes

This is what I'm thinking of getting and I'm hoping that you all can let me know if there's anything wrong with it or if I save or improve anywhere.

Intel Core i5 2500K - $225.00

ASUS P8Z68-V Pro Motherboard B3 - $249.00 (Is a Z68 board necessary? Or could I just get a P67 board instead? I'm asking because I'm not going to use the on-board graphics at all and I heard that SRT is pretty much useless with large capacity SDDs)

ASUS GeForce GTX 570 DirectCU II 1280MB - $379.00*

Fractal Design Define R3 Black $145.00

Corsair HX-750 Power Supply -$189.00

G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 - $85.00

Lite-On IHAS324 24x DVDRW - $29.00

CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ CPU Cooler - $33

Crucial M4 SSD 128GB - $279

Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB HD103SJ - $59

Monitor - Any good 24 inch monitor recommendations for around $200 or less?

Total - $1672 ($1872 with monitor)

* Was thinking of going with this instead of the 570, overkill? Would the 3gb version last longer? I mean the price isn't really a problem but if there isn't too much of a difference between 570 and 580 performance why bother right? Also I've heard you can overclock the 570 to 580 performance?

Thanks.
Looks solid. You don't need the PRO version of the Z68 board. All it adds it firewire and something like a USB bracket.

A 570 is fine. If you are worried about VRAM you can get a 2GB 6950/6970 if you like.

In ABOUT a month Bullzoder should become more known. Might give Intel some good competition, but if emulation is something you will do, get the Intel.
 

zlatko

Banned
I hope this is the proper place to ask this so here goes:

I've had my PC for like 8 months now I think, and I've had this weird issue crop up with games here and there, and I'm sort of fed up with it and would like to know WTF is causing this.

Basically, if you were to throw a stone into a puddle of water you would see ripples. My issue is there is a straight horizontal line left to right about 1 third of my screen down that looks like a ripple. Imagine a translucent or blurry line on the image. It's clear, but it's just so damn annoying to see. I don't think it appears when I leave games still, but it shows itself often when things are in motion. For reference I run my games in full screen on a 1366x768 resolution on a HDTV through a HDMI cable. I do not get this problem on consoles, or when using my PC for anything normal. Only on games.

I have a 5870 ATI card. Games I see this constantly:
Dirt 3
Battlefield Bad Company 2
Darksiders

I do not believe I had it during Witcher 2, or at least I can't recall. I play a lot of Starcraft 2 and it doesn't crop up in the multiplayer, but it may have been there during single player. I also recently started to play some Frozen Synapse and the issue doesn't appear there.

Anyone know what is causing this or a solution?
 

scogoth

Member
·feist· said:

Always posting bad news on SSDs =(

Even slowing down its still a lot faster then HDDs. We'll have to wait and see for the life span. I now have 3 Vertex 2's and have yet to see any issue with them.


zlatko said:
I hope this is the proper place to ask this so here goes:

I've had my PC for like 8 months now I think, and I've had this weird issue crop up with games here and there, and I'm sort of fed up with it and would like to know WTF is causing this.

Basically, if you were to throw a stone into a puddle of water you would see ripples. My issue is there is a straight horizontal line left to right about 1 third of my screen down that looks like a ripple. Imagine a translucent or blurry line on the image. It's clear, but it's just so damn annoying to see. I don't think it appears when I leave games still, but it shows itself often when things are in motion. For reference I run my games in full screen on a 1366x768 resolution on a HDTV through a HDMI cable. I do not get this problem on consoles, or when using my PC for anything normal. Only on games.

I have a 5870 ATI card. Games I see this constantly:
Dirt 3
Battlefield Bad Company 2
Darksiders

I do not believe I had it during Witcher 2, or at least I can't recall. I play a lot of Starcraft 2 and it doesn't crop up in the multiplayer, but it may have been there during single player. I also recently started to play some Frozen Synapse and the issue doesn't appear there.

Anyone know what is causing this or a solution?

Take a screenshot of when it happens and see if it appears in the shot. Also try stress testing the GPU to see if the problem happens under heavy load or extreme heat.
 
ok, so not really all that happy with this gtx 460, runs very hot under load, have 30 day return via newegg, thinking of going either with a 6850 or a 6870, any other suggestions in the the sub $200 range?
 
GodfatherX said:
ok, so not really all that happy with this gtx 460, runs very hot under load, have 30 day return via newegg, thinking of going either with a 6850 or a 6870, any other suggestions in the the sub $200 range?

If it runs hot use a custom fan profile...that is if were talking ~80C under full load. High cards are kinda supposed to run hot. Trust me 6850 and 6870 are no better, but if you really want one check out newegg and just filter away.
 

Chesskid1

Banned
Soka said:


this 6850 comes with Shogun 2 AND dirt 3 codes for free :)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150515

yeah i mentioned it but mentioning it again :p i think a 6870 qualifies as well but only certain ones. (XFX). i linked to the two fan version cause the reviews says it's really quiet but it's al il more expensive that 1 fan version. (like $5 or $10)
 
Lionheart1337 said:
If it runs hot use a custom fan profile...that is if were talking ~80C under full load. High cards are kinda supposed to run hot. Trust me 6850 and 6870 are no better, but if you really want one check out newegg and just filter away.

Yeah I agree. I've had the 6850, 6870 and 460 and performance isn't much different between them, and the 460 should be the coolest with the reference cooler, easily.

Which 460 do you have? I have a reference card overclocked to 900/1800/2000 and it barely hits 65 with 65% fan speed.
 
I have this 460, its not really loud, but with stock settings and minimal load it gets to 75c, tried playing a crysis 1 demo last night (i dont have my steam contact email and need it to validate a new device...bullshit) and after about 20 minutes got extreme frame drops after it played near perfect the first 20 minutes.

Also it appears the fermi cards are not and probably will not be usable in project x86 builds, which is also a very big concern. Not too mention the rather large step up in performance based on benchmarks of the 460 to either of the amd cards
 
Can someone link me to a good motherboard buying guide? The stuff in the opening post is great, but I'm still a little lost when it comes to motherboards...too many options.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
DR3AM said:
Can I get a good mobo, cpu, power supply and case for around $300-$375???
$80 - H67 mobo
$120 - i3 2100
$65 - XFX Core 550W or BP550
$40-80 your case of choice.

OP man!
SenseiJinx said:
Can someone link me to a good motherboard buying guide? The stuff in the opening post is great, but I'm still a little lost when it comes to motherboards...too many options.
I don't think there is one. If you find a recent one that is decent PM me.

Basically the shorthand is something like this:
Budget: $60-90
Budget Higher-end (P67): $90-$120
Good featured higher end (P67/Z68): $120-$160
Excessive for most (Adding on extra internet ports, extra power regulators, 3 PCI-E slots, etc.): $160+

For most a good $150 P67 board is all they need. You can trim features and get a $120 or so board that has a few less power regs and maybe slightly slower PCI-E lanes. Budgetwise below $90 and you start to have considerably less power regs which can be a factor in reliability down the line.

From 2nd post.
Motherboards:

- Socket Type (Which processors will work with your motherboard. Make sure it matches or is compatible with the CPU you are buying.)
- Chipset (Different chipsets (H67,P67,Z68,770,880,990) determine what possible connections and extras motherboards can support. In general the performance gains are not noticible and it is used mainly to tell how many PCI-E lanes a motherboard can support)
- Memory (Does it use DDR2 or DDR3? 1.5V or 1.65V? Most use 1.5V DDR3 today)
- Expansion slots (How many expansion slots do you need? PCI-E x16? PCI? Do you want two GPU's and a wireless PCI-E card? A PCI sound card?)
- Connectors/features (Do you need HDMI out? USB 3.0 ports? On board digital out?)
- Formfactor (Your case will have room for a certain formfactor of motherboard (ATX[normal], mATX[small]. Some cases only fit mATX and are labeled as such)
- Compatibility (On rare occasions there are incompatibilities between certain cards and memory with motherboards)
- Brand (Most brands on the market today are solid. Newegg reviews are generally helpful to determine a DOA rate. MSI, ASUS, ASRock, and Gigabyte in no particular order are some of the most known.)
- Quality (You pay more for more features. Higher end boards will also have more power regulations, use less power, and keep voltage in check more than cheaper boards)
- Overclock-ability (Usually nearly equal across the board. If you want a slightly higher overclock, you can pay more for a motherboard with better power regulation)
- Price (Always try to find the best bang for your buck, don't buy a mobo with features that you will never use!)

So in short, when buying a motherboard try to follow these points:
1. Determine the platform (Chipset + Socket)
2. Determine what functions you deem necessary for the motherboard to have
3. Make a shortlist of all motherboards that have your demands
4. Pick the board that has good reviews and has the best price
 

LogicStep

Member
Any of you use a tv as your computer screen? I hooked up my pc to my 1080p tv and while games look amazing on it, web browsing not so much, especially text. Reading text is really hard. Any way to combat this or is it better to stay on a monitor?
 

nitewulf

Member
what are the best 60GB+ SSD deals out there right now? i'd use it as a media storage, so fast writing isnt essential, fast read and build quality are important.
 
zazrx said:
Any of you use a tv as your computer screen? I hooked up my pc to my 1080p tv and while games look amazing on it, web browsing not so much, especially text. Reading text is really hard. Any way to combat this or is it better to stay on a monitor?

Plz someone answer this. When I build I want to hook up the new rig to the 46 inch Sony (120Hz). Has anyone had experience? Is it absolutely glorious in every aspect?
 
Thanks for the motherboard recommendations, Hazaro.

All right, well I finally put together a test build. Would like some advice on it. Not too sure about a few of the components, so some advice would be appreciated.

Basic Desktop Questions:
Budget: ~$700 (but the more I can hit that "sweet spot" between price and performance the better). USA
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1680x1050 for now. Possibly 1920x1080 in the future. Don't think I'll go higher than that.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Nothing too crazy, but I'd like it to be able to handle things coming out in the future decently. I don't need Ultra settings on everything, but a system with enough life in it to handle things decently for a few years is preferred. I'd like to play Crysis, for example, and some games that I got from the Steam sale (Just Cause 2, Darksiders, Batman: AA, Fallout: New Vegas). Deus Ex: HR in the near future.
Are reusing any parts?: Yes. I'm reusing the case, optical drive, and HDD. The HDD is one I got recently, and is fine. May upgrade to an SSD as well in the future, but that won't be for some time.
When will you build?: Could wait a month or two. Basically, once I nail down the specifics of what I want, I'll probably wait for sales and the like.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, but not right away. With this build, I could see myself running at stock speeds for now, and then a year or so down the road upgrading the video card and overclocking the processor.

Here's what I'm looking at right now:

wishlist.png


Not too sure about the motherboard. Picked one that seemed to have what I needed, had decent reviews and a good price. Open to suggestions on that. And is the GTX 460 a good choice? What about 4GB of RAM? Is there really any benefit -- at this time -- to 8GB? From what I've read, there doesn't seem to be much of a benefit to 8GB, at least for what I'll be doing.

That PSU had great reviews, and was a good price (and I wanted a modular one). I don't know if it would handle overclocking the i5 2500k at all though...

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
 

LordCanti

Member
zazrx said:
Any of you use a tv as your computer screen? I hooked up my pc to my 1080p tv and while games look amazing on it, web browsing not so much, especially text. Reading text is really hard. Any way to combat this or is it better to stay on a monitor?

I had this exact problem, until I went into the settings of my 46" 1080p Samsung LCD and turned sharpness to 0. Any amount of sharpness made text look terrible.

In any case, if that doesn't work, the answer is in your TV's menu. There is a way to make it great; You've just got to fiddle a little more than you would on a monitor.


SenseiJinx said:
Thanks for the motherboard recommendations, Hazaro.

All right, well I finally put together a test build. Would like some advice on it. Not too sure about a few of the components, so some advice would be appreciated.

Basic Desktop Questions:
Budget: ~$700 (but the more I can hit that "sweet spot" between price and performance the better). USA
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1680x1050 for now. Possibly 1920x1080 in the future. Don't think I'll go higher than that.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Nothing too crazy, but I'd like it to be able to handle things coming out in the future decently. I don't need Ultra settings on everything, but a system with enough life in it to handle things decently for a few years is preferred. I'd like to play Crysis, for example, and some games that I got from the Steam sale (Just Cause 2, Darksiders, Batman: AA, Fallout: New Vegas). Deus Ex: HR in the near future.
Are reusing any parts?: Yes. I'm reusing the case, optical drive, and HDD. The HDD is one I got recently, and is fine. May upgrade to an SSD as well in the future, but that won't be for some time.
When will you build?: Could wait a month or two. Basically, once I nail down the specifics of what I want, I'll probably wait for sales and the like.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, but not right away. With this build, I could see myself running at stock speeds for now, and then a year or so down the road upgrading the video card and overclocking the processor.

Here's what I'm looking at right now:

Not too sure about the motherboard. Picked one that seemed to have what I needed, had decent reviews and a good price. Open to suggestions on that. And is the GTX 460 a good choice? What about 4GB of RAM? Is there really any benefit -- at this time -- to 8GB? From what I've read, there doesn't seem to be much of a benefit to 8GB, at least for what I'll be doing.

That PSU had great reviews, and was a good price (and I wanted a modular one). I don't know if it would handle overclocking the i5 2500k at all though...

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!


Looks good. Mobo is fine, PSU seems highly regarded on Newegg, etc. The GTX 460 is a good card (better for your current resolution than 1080p) and it is highly recommended for those that like to keep it in the $100-$150 range (I think I've seen AR sales at like $120 for the card). You may want a beefier card whenever you switch to 1080p, but the 460 should serve you well until then.

Go with 4gb of RAM unless you like to keep a lot of Firefox/Chrome/etc tabs open, or if you plan to use virtual machines. <100 tabs, and most of my 8gb of RAM is in use. 4gb if you just want to play games.

Oh, and do yourself a favor and OC from the get go. That is free performance, with very little work to achieve it, for those willing to take it. It's going to give you just as much of a benefit now as it would in a few years (OC in a few years, and you'll be wondering why you didn't do it on day one). You may want to add an aftermarket heatsink (like the Hyper 212+ on Amazon) if you decide to go that route. You may want to anyway, because changing out a heatsink is a pain.
 

Tattooth

Member
Would this summer be a good time to upgrade my PC, or should I wait until years end when some newer or cheaper parts might me available.

Parts to upgrade:
CPU: Q660 2.6ghz
Motherboard: Gigabyte p35
4GB Ram
GPU: GTX 460

What I will buy:
CPU: 2500k
Motherboard: Asrock P67 Extreme 4
8GB G.Skill Ram
 

LogicStep

Member
LordCanti said:
I had this exact problem, until I went into the settings of my 46" 1080p Samsung LCD and turned sharpness to 0. Any amount of sharpness made text look terrible.

In any case, if that doesn't work, the answer is in your TV's menu. There is a way to make it great; You've just got to fiddle a little more than you would on a monitor.
Holy shit you are a god send hahaha. That worked, now everything looks crystal clear!
 
LordCanti said:
Looks good. Mobo is fine, PSU seems highly regarded on Newegg, etc. The GTX 460 is a good card (better for your current resolution than 1080p) and it is highly recommended for those that like to keep it in the $100-$150 range (I think I've seen AR sales at like $120 for the card). You may want a beefier card whenever you switch to 1080p, but the 460 should serve you well until then.

Go with 4gb of RAM unless you like to keep a lot of Firefox/Chrome/etc tabs open, or if you plan to use virtual machines. <100 tabs, and most of my 8gb of RAM is in use. 4gb if you just want to play games.

Oh, and do yourself a favor and OC from the get go. That is free performance, with very little work to achieve it, for those willing to take it. It's going to give you just as much of a benefit now as it would in a few years (OC in a few years, and you'll be wondering why you didn't do it on day one). You may want to add an aftermarket heatsink (like the Hyper 212+ on Amazon) if you decide to go that route. You may want to anyway, because changing out a heatsink is a pain.

Thanks for the advice! In regards to the GTX 460, I'm wondering if it would be worth shelling out an extra $50 or so for, say, a GTX 560 (or an equivalently priced and performing card). Any ideas on why this GTX 560 is so cheap? From what I've read the different manufacturer's are generally producing the same cards with just different name's on them. It's the same price as that GTX 460 I listed (and less if the rebate went through).

Good advice on OC'ing as well. If I were to overclock from the getgo, do you think that 550W power supply would be sufficient? I'm not going to be running dual video cards or anything, and I've only got one HDD and no SSD. However, I may look into an SSD in the future, and a possible RAID of some sort...makes me a bit worried about the PSU.

At the very least, would it be sufficient for an OC'ed i5 2500k, and an HDD and SSD?
 

LordCanti

Member
zazrx said:
Holy shit you are a god send hahaha. That worked, now everything looks crystal clear!

Glad it worked.


SenseiJinx said:
Thanks for the advice! In regards to the GTX 460, I'm wondering if it would be worth shelling out an extra $50 or so for, say, a GTX 560 (or an equivalently priced and performing card). Any ideas on why this GTX 560 is so cheap? From what I've read the different manufacturer's are generally producing the same cards with just different name's on them. It's the same price as that GTX 460 I listed (and less if the rebate went through).

Good advice on OC'ing as well. If I were to overclock from the getgo, do you think that 550W power supply would be sufficient? I'm not going to be running dual video cards or anything, and I've only got one HDD and no SSD. However, I may look into an SSD in the future, and a possible RAID of some sort...makes me a bit worried about the PSU.

At the very least, would it be sufficient for an OC'ed i5 2500k, and an HDD and SSD?


I guess it's cheaper because it's an off brand (I've never heard of Zotac). I would wait for a sale on a GTX 460 from a known brand, and simply OC it to stock 560 settings. Then again, I have an odd phobia about brands I've never heard of. That card could be perfectly fine for all I know, but it is hard to say without any reviews to go by.

That PSU should have plenty of power. I had like five HDD's, a DVD drive, an HD 4850, and an OC'd E8500 running off a 430w Antec PSU for years, and it was fine.
 

scogoth

Member
LordCanti said:
I guess it's cheaper because it's an off brand (I've never heard of Zotac). I would wait for a sale on a GTX 460 from a known brand, and simply OC it to stock 560 settings. Then again, I have an odd phobia about brands I've never heard of. That card could be perfectly fine for all I know, but it is hard to say without any reviews to go by.

Zotac is a well known brand. They specialize in mATX and miniITX mobos. They're software support and bioses aren't all that great which is why they are generally cheaper.
 
LordCanti said:
I guess it's cheaper because it's an off brand (I've never heard of Zotac). I would wait for a sale on a GTX 460 from a known brand, and simply OC it to stock 560 settings. Then again, I have an odd phobia about brands I've never heard of. That card could be perfectly fine for all I know, but it is hard to say without any reviews to go by.

That PSU should have plenty of power. I had like five HDD's, a DVD drive, an HD 4850, and an OC'd E8500 running off a 430w Antec PSU for years, and it was fine.

Yeah, I'm a little wary as well given there's only one review for the card. So do GTX 460's overclock well? Glad to know the PSU should be sufficient, because everything I've read about that one so far looks good.

Zotac is a well known brand. They specialize in mATX and miniITX mobos. They're software support and bioses aren't all that great which is why they are generally cheaper.

Hm, good to know. Any idea if their GPU's are reputable at all?
 

LordCanti

Member
scogoth said:
Zotac is a well known brand. They specialize in mATX and miniITX mobos. They're software support and bioses aren't all that great which is why they are generally cheaper.

Would you trust them for video cards? I wouldn't know one way on another.
 
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