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[Gunmonkey36]

So I've never built a PC before but PC-GAF says it's easy so I'm jumping in. Here's what I'm looking at right now, based largely on Hazaro's OP "Excellent" build, any suggestions before I pull the trigger?

Intel i5 2500k
ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3
2x4GB Corsair Vengeance 1600 Low Profile
GTX560Ti 448 Cores (is it better to buy this over a 2GB ti w/fewer cores?)
Samsung F3 1TB (will this be more reliable than the F4 2TB?)
Coolermaster HAF 912 (enough room and simple enough for a beginner to work with?)
ASUS DRW-24B1ST
CoolerMaster 212+
Xonar DG
Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
2xASUS VW246H
Plantronics GameCom 377 Headset

What else do I need to buy? A lot of the hard drives are listed as "bare", do I need any screws or cables for them or will all that be included with the case and motherboard? I need thermal paste for the heatsink right? As far as I can tell audio and DVI cables come with the monitors. Anything else I need?

I'm new to all this, so I appreciate all input.

Your heatsink will come with thermal paste.

A 2 gb 560 ti will give you a bit more future proofing, but going with a higher number of cores isn't necessarily a bad idea.

You shouldn't need extra screws. Your case as long as you don't buy a cheepo one should have screws for your hard drive.

The F3 1TB is faster than the 2TB don't know if its any more reliable.

Edit: I may be blind, but I don't see a PSU?

Overall looks good. Building a PC is very easy and you will love it once its done.

 

[Frog]

Whoops, PSU is the XFX Pro 550W

 

[Hazaro]

If you want nVidia get the 1280MB 560Ti 448.
If you think you'll break 1.2GB VRAM and don't care about vendor buy the 6950.

I'm only on the second gen version of my first build, so I'm not the most seasoned at this, but that seems a little low. I had some problems using the 400w PSU in my old case, though that may have been just a shitty PSU overall. I have a 750w Corsair now, and it's been great.

You won't have problems now, but I've been told PSUs degrade over time, so if you're going for a higher end GPU, it's going to need a fair amount of power.

Again, I may be wrong on this.

Any OEM 400w will be awful. Corsair had the CX400W which was good, but they discontinued that a while ago.
550W is enough for any single card setup, though I'd recommend 650W for a 7970 / GTX 580, and then if you are dropping that much might as well get a 750 or higher.

PSUs do lower in total capacity over time.

 

[x3r0123]

ok i decided to go with the p280 due to my requirement. Now I am new to liquid cpu coolers and I'm very interested in having one. Could someone point out the cons and pros? Also what would be a good cooler? I'm not referring to those old school water cooling with tubes. Something like Corsair H40/H70 (just to give an example)

 

[Hazaro]

I'm of the opinion that everyone should just buy an air cooler over enclosed water unless:
1) You like how it looks
2) You don't care it's bad value
3) You are actually going to overclock past 4.5Ghz and know what you are doing in regards to putting volts into your CPU

 

[x3r0123]

I'm of the opinion that everyone should just buy an air cooler over enclosed water unless:
1) You like how it looks
2) You don't care it's bad value
3) You are actually going to overclock past 4.5Ghz and know what you are doing in regards to putting volts into your CPU

please enlighten me and I only trying to cool the cpu as much as possible

 

[Hazaro]

please enlighten me and I only trying to cool the cpu as much as possible

But why are you trying to cool it as much as possible? That is the question.
As long as temps are under 65C artificial load it's fine.
You only go over that if you are going over ~4.5Ghz overclock.

Spending $80 for liquid when a $35 air cooler meets all needs is my point.

 

[x3r0123]

because i'm thinking that keeping it around 30C would be better

 

[TheExodu5]

You're not getting anywhere near 30C with a watercooler like the H70. You're just going to be getting a few degrees better than air coolers.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/corsair-h70_5.html#sect0

Heck, as you can see here, some air coolers can even outdo the H70. The Thermalright Silver Arrow (one of the best air coolers on the market) outdoes it quite badly at low RPM.

The only watercooler I'd consider is the H100, but I don't think the P280 would accommodate a 240mm rad.

 

[BoobPhysics101]

please enlighten me and I only trying to cool the cpu as much as possible

Why? What is people's obsession with keeping it as 'cool as possible'? These CPU's don't have any problems until you get past 90c and up to 100-110c, where they will just shut off if 110c~ is hit. 50-80c is absolutely fine.

Seriously, your CPU is not going to blow up if you go over 80c. So much ignorance spread on the Internet by people who don't even know about what CPU's/GPU's can handle in terms of heat before they start to degrade. Don't believe everything you read, gentlemen (and ladies).

 

[TheExodu5]

The only advantage to keeping your CPU extremely cool is to have better overclocking stability, but that really only starts mattering once you're pushing extreme overclocks (4.8GHz+).

 

[BoobPhysics101]

The only advantage to keeping your CPU extremely cool is to have better overclocking stability, but that really only starts mattering once you're pushing extreme overclocks (4.8GHz+).

This. For 99% of people, this isn't really an issue.

 

[x3r0123]

You're not getting anywhere near 30C with a watercooler like the H70. You're just going to be getting a few degrees better than air coolers.

Heck, as you can see here, some air coolers can even outdo the H70. The Thermalright Silver Arrow (one of the best air coolers on the market) outdoes it quite badly at low RPM.

The only watercooler I'd consider is the H100, but I don't think the P280 would accommodate a 240mm rad.

I never said I would get the H70. I was merely interested in liquid cooling oO and inquiring about it

Why? What is people's obsession with keeping it as 'cool as possible'? These CPU's don't have any problems until you get past 90c and up to 100-110c, where they will just shut off if 110c~ is hit. 50-80c is absolutely fine.

Seriously, your CPU is not going to blow up if you go over 80c. So much ignorance spread on the Internet by people who don't even know about what CPU's/GPU's can handle in terms of heat before they start to degrade. Don't believe everything you read, gentlemen (and ladies).

see above

 

[BoobPhysics101]

I never said I would get the H70. I was merely interested in liquid cooling oO and inquiring about it




see above

I'm not saying you're ignorant, I'm just saying some people spread misinformation, and it's good that you came and asked.

 

[Zimbardo]

is the Noctua D14 still the best air cooler out there?

i've heard that it was better overall than the Silver Arrow ...so i'm just curious.

 

[RS4-]

is the Noctua D14 still the best air cooler out there?

i've heard that it was better overall than the Silver Arrow ...so i'm just curious.

I think it's the SA that is slightly above the D14. If you have to choose, buy whichever is cheaper/have access to

 

[Zimbardo]

I think it's the SA that is slightly above the D14. If you have to choose, buy whichever is cheaper/have access to

i remember hearing that the Silver Arrow was bigger (one of the negatives about it) and cooled slightly worse at higher overclocks ...but it cooled slightly better at lower overclocks.

dunno how accurate that info was ...and it was like near a year ago when i heard that.

 

[Karmum]

Thinking about getting an SSD in the near future, how easy is it to setup? As easy as an HDD? I don't think I'm going to put much more than W7 (maybe a few programs since the OS won't take up much space) on it, so what is the smallest size I can get? 64 GB? Any recommendations?

 

[Isaccard]

I'm building next week PC-GAF. I'm actually quite nervous about the whole thing, despite how easy every one says it is, and all the research I've been doing over the last month or so to make sure I got everything correctly.

Intel i5 2500k
ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3
MSI N560GTX-Ti 448 Twin Frozr III PE/OC (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5
SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91
ASUS DRW-24B1ST
Coolermaster Storm Enforcer
ASUS VH236H 23"

Grand total: 1,239.89

 

[zulfate]

i have another question i installed a xonar dg and i have my headphones connected directly to it, but my speakers are connected to the motherboard sound but it is not working now, no matter what i do it wont show the realtek audio options. i tried downloading the updated bios and all that stuff and still nothing. i checked my connection in my computer and it all looks good but i have no clue!

 

[·feist·]

i remember hearing that the Silver Arrow was bigger (one of the negatives about it) and cooled slightly worse at higher overclocks ...but it cooled slightly better at lower overclocks.

dunno how accurate that info was ...and it was like near a year ago when i heard that.

The Silver Arrow is smaller than the NH-D14, and weighs less than all of the top dual tower air coolers, bar the Prolimatech Genesis (although the Genesis does not come with fans). The Silver Arrow also has the best fans of all of the top air coolers, in both noise, and performance. BeQuiet's Dark Rock Pro could edge it out in terms of noise, but both its fans, and sink don't perform as well. At that point, people will go for preference, over a few degrees in performance.

ok i decided to go with the p280 due to my requirement. Now I am new to liquid cpu coolers and I'm very interested in having one. Could someone point out the cons and pros? Also what would be a good cooler? I'm not referring to those old school water cooling with tubes. Something like Corsair H40/H70 (just to give an example)

Lowest regular price + free shipping for an Antec P280.

Entry level air-cooling. High end air-cooling. What AIOs like the H70 are generally best suited for.

Corsair H100 ≥ Antec 920 ≥ Corsair H80 > Antec 620 > Corsair H60.

If you do decide to go with water-cooling, anyway, don't go below an H60. For the best cooling to noise ratio of the current top AIOs, you may want to pay a bit more and go with something like the Corsair H100, or Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme.

Pre-CES 2012 preview of Thermaltake coolers including Frio Extreme
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFNYtJ4N48E

Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme

I've been personally waiting on this since it first went up for pre-order as the quad-fan Asetek WaterChill 2011C.

Shortly after that, Asetek's rep said it would most likely not be sold as an OEM product, and could end up as a rebranded exclusive. Months later, it seems Thermaltake beat Antec, and the rest to the punch. Although, not surprisingly, it lost two fans along the way for case compatibility, and cost concerns. I'm just waiting on availability, and warranty info. It would be going into one of my planned builds where I won't be using high end air, or full water... yet. So I'm ok with the priceerformance shortcomings, even though I normally steer most people away from that.

Anyway, the above video also has Thermaltake's Water 2.0, and Water 2.0 Pro AIOs.

 

[x3r0123]

hmmm great seagate acquired samsung hdds and I have a bad history with seagate. I'm rocking with some wd green as hdds with my current pc but I like to keep my options open so what are other good hdds?

Lowest regular price + free shipping for an Antec P280.
....

thanks for the info

 

[element]

Ended up buying an ASUS RT-N53 router today since my Netgear 3500L was having problems. Holy crap! 300Mbps locked on all devices on 5Ghz band. I didn't even know my MBA13 supported 5Ghz. Well worth the $70 I bought it for!

 

[Jtrizzy]

Having some possible heat issues with my cpu, but could it be a bug with Core Temp? I do temp readings on my g13 during games, and a few times lately core temp will say a 4 cores are at 98, and the cpu is running at 3.4 instead of 4.4 where I oc'd it to. Then I exit the game, open intel turboo boost monitor and it says 4.4.

This only seems to happen when really pushing it with BF3 or Crysis 2. The games run fun without crashing, so I'm wondering if this has something to do with the program, or if I'm having fan issues.

 

[Zimbardo]

The Silver Arrow is smaller than the NH-D14, and weighs less than all of the top dual tower air coolers, bar the Prolimatech Genesis (although the Genesis does not come with fans). The Silver Arrow also has the best fans of all of the top air coolers, in both noise, and performance. BeQuiet's Dark Rock Pro could edge it out in terms of noise, but both its fans, and sink don't perform as well. At that point, people will go for preference, over a few degrees in performance.

here's the comparison review that i remember reading where the Noctua D14 was said to be better overall.

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/thermalright_silver_arrow_vs_noctua_nh-d14/3

For our purposes though the reality is that the Noctua is easier to use, sturdier designed and doesn't fail when the going gets tough so still retains our top spot as the best CPU Cooler on the planet.

It's not to say the Silver Arrow is a bad cooler. Just not quite good enough to dethrone the Champ.

i'm not really in the mood or have the time to watch that 20+ minute video again, but i remember him saying that the Noctua was easier to fit in a case than the Silver Arrow, too.

 

[toastyToast]

I found that review pretty puzzling. How the heatsink just fails with the overclock and goes 100C strikes me as very odd. Not that I'm questioning the review, it just looks really strange.

Installation on the SA is fine if you do it outside of the case. Only took me about 5 minutes. One major issue is that since you have a 140mm fan on the front, pretty much all varieties of RAM with heat fins won't have enough clearance. This can be remedied by having a fan in the centre and rear instead of front and centre. From what I found the performance is pretty much exactly the same and aesthetically it's a bit more pleasing (didn't like the big gap behind the cooler).

 

[scogoth]

here's the comparison review that i remember reading where the Noctua D14 was said to be better overall.

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/thermalright_silver_arrow_vs_noctua_nh-d14/3



i'm not really in the mood or have the time to watch that 20+ minute video again, but i remember him saying that the Noctua was easier to fit in a case than the Silver Arrow, too.

Don't know what the circumstances of that test were but both coolers are both great products, can't go wrong with either. Really it comes down to which fan color you like better. It is worth noting that noctua is great with keeping there brackets updated for new sockets and will give them to you free.

 

[·feist·]

Thinking about getting an SSD in the near future, how easy is it to setup? As easy as an HDD? I don't think I'm going to put much more than W7 (maybe a few programs since the OS won't take up much space) on it, so what is the smallest size I can get? 64 GB? Any recommendations?

Crucial M4, other SSD recommendations, and SSD coming attractions.

SSD setup, migration, tweaks, and symbolic links.

I'm building next week PC-GAF. I'm actually quite nervous about the whole thing, despite how easy every one says it is, and all the research I've been doing over the last month or so to make sure I got everything correctly.

Intel i5 2500k
ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3
MSI N560GTX-Ti 448 Twin Frozr III PE/OC (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5
SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91
ASUS DRW-24B1ST
Coolermaster Storm Enforcer
ASUS VH236H 23"

Grand total: 1,239.89

Looks solid. Post completed pics.

i have another question i installed a xonar dg and i have my headphones connected directly to it, but my speakers are connected to the motherboard sound but it is not working now, no matter what i do it wont show the realtek audio options. i tried downloading the updated bios and all that stuff and still nothing. i checked my connection in my computer and it all looks good but i have no clue!

Check settings, and what a/v defaults you have. Be sure to have your drivers correct, and up to date.

hmmm great seagate acquired samsung hdds and I have a bad history with seagate. I'm rocking with some wd green as hdds with my current pc but I like to keep my options open so what are other good hdds?

thanks for the info

NP. As for 3.5" HDDs, you're effectively down to only 2 manufacturing players; Seagate and WD. Nearly everything else has been merged/taken over by those two. Can stock up on some F3s, and F4s before any potential manufacturing changes occur.

Having some possible heat issues with my cpu, but could it be a bug with Core Temp? I do temp readings on my g13 during games, and a few times lately core temp will say a 4 cores are at 98, and the cpu is running at 3.4 instead of 4.4 where I oc'd it to. Then I exit the game, open intel turboo boost monitor and it says 4.4.

This only seems to happen when really pushing it with BF3 or Crysis 2. The games run fun without crashing, so I'm wondering if this has something to do with the program, or if I'm having fan issues.

Unless you have temp protections off, you should shutdown once you hit ~90-100+. Possibly faulty sensor, fan, or simply software. Try multiple temp programs simultaneously.

here's the comparison review that i remember reading where the Noctua D14 was said to be better overall.

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/thermalright_silver_arrow_vs_noctua_nh-d14/3

i'm not really in the mood or have the time to watch that 20+ minute video again, but i remember him saying that the Noctua was easier to fit in a case than the Silver Arrow, too.

You'll notice he's the only reviewer to get those kinds of results, and, strangely enough, that's almost always the main review that people point to.

To say the least, his methods are inconsistent, and unreliable. I don't care for the Tweak Towns, and Frosty Techs of the worlds because they use synthetic tests, but at least they are consistent in their approach. Take a comprehensive aggregate of thorough, professionally done reviews of the top dual towers, and you'll see the Silver Arrow, and now Phanteks, coming out on top far more often than not.

I wouldn't put much into OC3D's review anymore than I would put into the handful of reputable sites that show the NH-D14 falling behind as much as 5-8c (even 11C in one instance). Those are due mostly to some cases of faulty mounts mechanisms (a small number of NH-D14 owners have had this issue), and/or bad mounting, but those few sites mostly didn't mention that. That handful also didn't bother to retest, to see that a properly working NH-D14 wouldn't be that far behind. Same with OC3D's Silver Arrow results.

But, again, when you're looking at ~1-4c (not taking noise into account), it comes down to preference, special sales, customer service (which Noctua is very good at), regional pricing disparities, etc.

 

[RS4-]

I could add a third fan to my D14 but I don't think it makes that much of a difference and I don't remember if I even have an extra fan connector on my board either.

 

[·feist·]

It is worth noting that noctua is great with keeping there brackets updated for new sockets and will give them to you free.

Heh. Didn't see this while I was posting something similar about Noctua, but it's true.

I could add a third fan to my D14 but I don't think it makes that much of a difference and I don't remember if I even have an extra fan connector on my board either.

Fan splitters are your friend, duderbroseph. Still, unless you're running a hot part, and/or very high OC, I wouldn't bother.

 

[RS4-]

Fan splitters are your friend, duderbroseph. Still, unless you're running a hot part, and/or very high OC, I wouldn't bother.

Yeah I tried to see if I had any fan splitters lying around my room, no luck. If I do find a splitter or realize that I do have an extra spot on my mobo I guess I'll just throw a third fan up there. Then again, I'd be running the two stock Noctuas, while the third is a Gelid Wing 12.

If the Silverstone AP181 fans weren't so expensive, I'd replace the FN181 I have in my case but for $25-30/fan I wouldn't see that much of a difference in temps.

I think I'll just swap my 6950 for a 7950 when it comes out.

edit - here's a nice read for current and upcoming NH-D14 users: http://www.overclock.net/t/1189963/...performance-fans-images-ahead-may-load-slowly

 

[scogoth]

Yeah I tried to see if I had any fan splitters lying around my room, no luck. If I do find a splitter or realize that I do have an extra spot on my mobo I guess I'll just throw a third fan up there. Then again, I'd be running the two stock Noctuas, while the third is a Gelid Wing 12.

If the Silverstone AP181 fans weren't so expensive, I'd replace the FN181 I have in my case but for $25-30/fan I wouldn't see that much of a difference in temps.

I think I'll just swap my 6950 for a 7950 when it comes out.

edit - here's a nice read for current and upcoming NH-D14 users: http://www.overclock.net/t/1189963/...performance-fans-images-ahead-may-load-slowly

Why do you need a third fan on the heat sink? At least for my case the rear exhaust fan lines up almost perfectly, I couldn't even fit a third fan between my NH-D14 and the rear exhaust even if I wanted to.

 

[Zyzyxxz]

I'm of the opinion that everyone should just buy an air cooler over enclosed water unless:
1) You like how it looks

Pretty much this is the reason I want an enclosed cooler like the Corsair H-series. Hate installing a huge ass heatsink making it a pain to move my hand around in the case.

I know it's going to be a one time thing and I know I'm not going to be looking at my case all the time but when I do need to pull something out it'll be much easier. My brother runs an H50 on his i2500K and it cools it very well not impressive but he did a mild overclock and it ran games at reasonably cool temps.

 

[mkenyon]

I never said I would get the H70. I was merely interested in liquid cooling oO and inquiring about it

That's how they get you right there. I mean, it is liquid cooling, but the pump and radiators are so bad that it's really no different, performance wise, than an air cooler.

As soon as you get to one that is actually worth it, like the H100, you are now at the price point of a real liquid cooling system, like the one here in my Arc Mini. But again, you only *really* want one if you're pushing very high clocks.

I'm of the opinion that everyone should just buy an air cooler over enclosed water unless:
1) You like how it looks
2) You don't care it's bad value
3) You are actually going to overclock past 4.5Ghz and know what you are doing in regards to putting volts into your CPU

There are some very minor instances where I think it's still going to be worth it. In my recent 600T build, I wanted to quiet down my build. The only way to do that was to make sure the two 560Ti's were adequately cooled. By simply replacing the stock fans with better ones, I could keep the entire motherboard area clear of obstruction and exhaust out the top over the H100. If there was a giant heatsink disrupting the flow paths, I'd have much warmer (and therefore louder) cards on my hands. We (meaning builders) make a big deal of moving cables and HDD bays out of the way to improve airflow, yet completely ignore the giant aluminum block with fans in the middle of the case.

 

[RS4-]

Why do you need a third fan on the heat sink? At least for my case the rear exhaust fan lines up almost perfectly, I couldn't even fit a third fan between my NH-D14 and the rear exhaust even if I wanted to.

I've got some extra 120mm fans here and there's quite a bit of space for it between the heat sink and the exhaust in the FT02 case.

 

[Spiritreaver]

Ah damn, right as I was finishing my checkout on newegg, the 7970 completely sold out. :\ Sucks.

 

[Durante]

PC Gaf, I want a sound card that has S/PDIF (TOSlink) in and is not obscenely priced. Does such a thing exist?

 

[Shambles]

Here's a question for you HTPC gaf. An old desktop has been relegated to the living room for use as an HTPC. Currently I have an Onkoy Tx-SR605 and am trying to run the PC into the receiver and run composite from the receiver into an old tube TV I'm using.

Desktop (DVI) -> SR605 (Via HDMI adapter),
SR605 (Composite through 'Monitor Out') -> CRT

I'm having trouble getting the video all the way through the TV. I know the cables are good since I can pull up the receiver menu on the TV. I assume the difficulty is trying to get a digital signal to an analog but I expected my receiver to take care of the conversion. I also tried hooking the monitor back up to the PC to manually change the resolution to 640x480 but it did not seem to work after changing the PC output back to the receiver. Has anyone else gone through this and figured this out already?

I know if I had a modern TV with an HDMI port this would take all of 5 seconds, didn't think it would be this hard to hook up an SD TV though.

 

[Crimson Clown]

Having a really weird problem with my Razer DeathAdder.

When I connect or disconnect a USB device, my left and right clicks stop working. Yet the rest of the buttons work and the cursor still moves. After about a minute, it comes back and catches up with all the clicks.

Any ideas?

 

[mug]

Here's a question for you HTPC gaf. An old desktop has been relegated to the living room for use as an HTPC. Currently I have an Onkoy Tx-SR605 and am trying to run the PC into the receiver and run composite from the receiver into an old tube TV I'm using.

Desktop (DVI) -> SR605 (Via HDMI adapter),
SR605 (Composite through 'Monitor Out') -> CRT

I'm having trouble getting the video all the way through the TV. I know the cables are good since I can pull up the receiver menu on the TV. I assume the difficulty is trying to get a digital signal to an analog but I expected my receiver to take care of the conversion. I also tried hooking the monitor back up to the PC to manually change the resolution to 640x480 but it did not seem to work after changing the PC output back to the receiver. Has anyone else gone through this and figured this out already?

I know if I had a modern TV with an HDMI port this would take all of 5 seconds, didn't think it would be this hard to hook up an SD TV though.

Composite doesn't work that way as far as I know. You're inputting an digital signal at a higher resolution than the TV can display. I recall older videocards being equipped with an SVideo out port and they would hardly work. While you can change the resolution I don't think the signal will make it all the way to the TV. I'm just talking out my ass here but the only way you can get it working is with a TV out straight to the CRT and bypassing the receiver.

 

[Piercedveil]

Is 2 gb of VRAM more than needed for 1080p or is it worth the extra cash for playing games at that res?

 

[derder]

Here's a question for you HTPC gaf. An old desktop has been relegated to the living room for use as an HTPC. Currently I have an Onkoy Tx-SR605 and am trying to run the PC into the receiver and run composite from the receiver into an old tube TV I'm using.

Desktop (DVI) -> SR605 (Via HDMI adapter),
SR605 (Composite through 'Monitor Out') -> CRT

I'm having trouble getting the video all the way through the TV. I know the cables are good since I can pull up the receiver menu on the TV. I assume the difficulty is trying to get a digital signal to an analog but I expected my receiver to take care of the conversion. I also tried hooking the monitor back up to the PC to manually change the resolution to 640x480 but it did not seem to work after changing the PC output back to the receiver. Has anyone else gone through this and figured this out already?

I know if I had a modern TV with an HDMI port this would take all of 5 seconds, didn't think it would be this hard to hook up an SD TV though.

This could be so many different issues. Maybe check the DAC setting on the receiver? I know the fallujah chip has it's share of problems.

I would just buy a new tv lol.

 

[derder]

Having a really weird problem with my Razer DeathAdder.

When I connect or disconnect a USB device, my left and right clicks stop working. Yet the rest of the buttons work and the cursor still moves. After about a minute, it comes back and catches up with all the clicks.

Any ideas?

USB host controller issues, I'd wager. Try a PS/2-to-USB adapter for the mouse.

 

[Theonik]

PC Gaf, I want a sound card that has S/PDIF (TOSlink) in and is not obscenely priced. Does such a thing exist?

The Creative Titanium HD has that feature IIRC. Not sure how it performs though and it depends on what you wanna do. You may want to do some research on this.

Is 2 gb of VRAM more than needed for 1080p or is it worth the extra cash for playing games at that res?

2GB is more than enough for 1080p in most cases yes.

 

[Shambles]

This could be so many different issues. Maybe check the DAC setting on the receiver? I know the fallujah chip has it's share of problems.

I would just buy a new tv lol.

I found a video flow chart in the manual showing which inputs link to which outputs. Turns on on the SR605 HDMI in will only go through HDMI out. I know i have an ancient TV tuner laying around that has an S-Video port on it, just not sure if it's an output or input. Guess that's my last chance option to try out. I know all the Coax connections on the tuner card are inputs

 

[mug]

I found a video flow chart in the manual showing which inputs link to which outputs. Turns on on the SR605 HDMI in will only go through HDMI out. I know i have an ancient TV tuner laying around that has an S-Video port on it, just not sure if it's an output or input. Guess that's my last chance option to try out. I know all the Coax connections on the tuner card are inputs

It's really not worth it in my opinion. The picture will be horrible and text will be unreadable.

 

[Shambles]

It's really not worth it in my opinion. The picture will be horrible and text will be unreadable.

It's just used for watching video. It'll just be a holdover until the TV gets replaced down the road. I have a PS3 hooked up to it as well and the even games and blu-ray menus already have unreadable text

Edit: Ugh, got s-video out but it will only convert it to component not composite, which my TV does not have. Damn stone age technology.

 

[BoobPhysics101]

PC Gaf, I want a sound card that has S/PDIF (TOSlink) in and is not obscenely priced. Does such a thing exist?

Have you checked Asus Xonar line? Maybe the STX?

 

[Biggzy]

PC gaf I need some advice with a little dilemma I have. I am looking into upgrading my PC, but with ivy bridge coming out soon, I am wondering if I should wait for the new processors or just go with the sandy bridge ones.

 

[Karmum]

Crucial M4, other SSD recommendations, and SSD coming attractions.

SSD setup, migration, tweaks, and symbolic links.

Sweet links, thanks. Definitely going to look into the suggestions and provided links. Spend my eventual tax return money on an SSD and another GTX 460 most likely, can't wait!

All of these computer builds make me really want to look into better cable management, mine looks downright awful.