• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

Joycon connection issue may be hardware related

A work colleague and I have done a test.

He has problems with his left joycon, it will disconnect at only around 1.5m away from the switch unless you point it straight at it. If you hold it sideways or put it behind your back then it will stop working.

I have no issues with mine at all.

So, just now we have set my switch up on my desk running zelda (portable mode on kickstand). I paired his joycons, and I experienced the same problem he has at home!
Terrible range on left joycon of barely over 1m unless pointing straight at the switch.

next we paired mine, and perfect!?

Even stood 4-5m away AND with the joycons behind my back, link continued to control perfectly with no disconnections at all!

So that's the same switch console, in the same position, with the same person using them, and yet completely different results from 2 pairs of joycons!!!

One set perfect, the other garbage.

Both are switches/joycons are launch day units and both purchased from the same place (shopto).
 
A work colleague and I have done a test.

He has problems with his left joycon, it will disconnect at only around 1.5m away from the switch unless you point it straight at it. If you hold it sideways or put it behind your back then it will stop working.

I have no issues with mine at all.

So, just now we have set my switch up on my desk running zelda (portable mode on kickstand). I paired his joycons, and I experienced the same problem he has at home!
Terrible range on left joycon of barely over 1m unless pointing straight at the switch.

next we paired mine, and perfect!?

Even stood 4-5m away AND with the joycons behind my back, link continued to control perfectly with no disconnections at all!

So that the same switch console, in the same position, with the same person using them, and yet completely different results from 2 pairs of joycons!!!

One set perfect, the other garbage.

Both are switches/joycons are launch day units and both purchased from the same place (shopto).

Honestly this is a good thing. Means that those of us with the issue can have it solved with replacement, and we're not fucked by our surroundings / supposed interference. Thanks for the report!
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
Is it possible the left joycon isn't connecting to the console but rather to the right roycone, which in turn is sending the signal of both to the system? That would explain why the poster above was able to reproduce the issue with what seemed like a "good" left joycon
 
A work colleague and I have done a test.

He has problems with his left joycon, it will disconnect at only around 1.5m away from the switch unless you point it straight at it. If you hold it sideways or put it behind your back then it will stop working.

I have no issues with mine at all.

So, just now we have set my switch up on my desk running zelda (portable mode on kickstand). I paired his joycons, and I experienced the same problem he has at home!
Terrible range on left joycon of barely over 1m unless pointing straight at the switch.

next we paired mine, and perfect!?

Even stood 4-5m away AND with the joycons behind my back, link continued to control perfectly with no disconnections at all!

So that's the same switch console, in the same position, with the same person using them, and yet completely different results from 2 pairs of joycons!!!

One set perfect, the other garbage.

Both are switches/joycons are launch day units and both purchased from the same place (shopto).

Yeah some don't have the issue. My neon didn't, but my grey did. I had to force it to occur, but I ended up swapping the set out and zero issues with my replacements even when trying to make the signal cut out.
 

Phamit

Member
Is it possible the left joycon isn't connecting to the console but rather to the right roycone, which in turn is sending the signal of both to the system? That would explain why the poster above was able to reproduce the issue with what seemed like a "good" left joycon


Maybe that happens if you connect both joy Cons, I doubt it, but it's not source of the problem.

The problem is still there if you only connect the left one and don't use the right one at all
 

Karanlos

Member
Is it possible the left joycon isn't connecting to the console but rather to the right roycone, which in turn is sending the signal of both to the system? That would explain why the poster above was able to reproduce the issue with what seemed like a "good" left joycon

Disconnected my right controller and put it far away, left still hold connection like a champ, even better than my right.
 

Brannon

Member
Is it possible the left joycon isn't connecting to the console but rather to the right roycone, which in turn is sending the signal of both to the system? That would explain why the poster above was able to reproduce the issue with what seemed like a "good" left joycon

So taking the battery out of the left one and testing the right one should show it working as normal, but taking the battery out of the right one would render both of them inoperable.

Even easier; just completely block the signal of the right joy con or take it completely out of the house if you're worried about being something and then test the left joy con.

It's one of those thing you'd never think about since the joy cons are always together anyway...

[Edit] and there goes that theory: p
 

Zarovitch

Member
I've made some test with my joycon and i have no problems. Thats strange. This test made me play Zelda with joycon instead of my pro controller, it's not bad.
 
The guy in the OP's video just attaches a piece of wire to that soldering point and it totally fixed the problem for him. I've ordered a soldering iron from Amazon and I'm going to give it a shot when it comes in. :)
I should watch that, not had a chace yet.

If you were to do it, you would need de-soldering braid, suck up that blob of solder, then only attach a piece from the lower side (this way the onboard antenna would be disabled) and have it go downwards (away from the metal joystick shield) but it would need to have 31mm of unshielded wire for a proper match, which is tricky since there's tons of small areas that it could touch and ground out (or worse). I guess maybe clear taping it along the side of the carrier that holds ZL would do the trick.

If we find out down the line there is an actual revision, or further updates (power increases or whatever) don't fix it, I'd attempt doing that with say 28-30 gauge wire and trying the results.

It's pretty small and surgical, so I mean this can't really be given out as a diy fix for people, I could see many causing much more damage than it's worth even attempting it.

Personally I would not edit my joycons because my skills are not good enough but it's great to hear stuff like this so thank you for replying.
I like to think that nintendo already know a cause and have silently fixed it for the joycons coming out in the next few months, they might not even mention it.
 

krumble

Member
Surprised more people that actually have the issue haven't reported their model numbers to see if there is any pattern...
 

zonq

Member
Where is the model number found?

The only number to compare I've found so far is on the slim side that slides into the switch with the plastic that has the 3 arrows at the bottom. Under that you find a number that varies and seems to he 4 digits/letters
 

Ludist210

Member
I had the issue a few days ago. I decided to move the dock and my wireless router (needed to be moved anyway) and adjust the channel on my WiFi (because I remember needing to do that back in the DS & Wii days). That seemed to fix the issue for me. YMMV.
 
I had the issue a few days ago. I decided to move the dock and my wireless router (needed to be moved anyway) and adjust the channel on my WiFi (because I remember needing to do that back in the DS & Wii days). That seemed to fix the issue for me. YMMV.

I can't really move things around too much without rearranging my entertainment center, but I haven't tried changing the WiFi channel. That's simple enough to do...
 

lionpants

Member
The only number to compare I've found so far is on the slim side that slides into the switch with the plastic that has the 3 arrows at the bottom. Under that you find a number that varies and seems to he 4 digits/letters
Cool thanks.

A501 here and as I've said, lots of issues with it.

I was playing 1-2 Switch last night with the free code that support gave me and I was getting desyncs with that while standing near the console. Makes the game unplayable.

Also, I don't know what Nintendo was smoking thinking they can charge $60 for that game... lol
 

krumble

Member
So lots of part numbers..

non working so far from this thread

G38A, A521, G491, G41A, A441, A501

working

G501 (2 people confirmed), G34A

I know a lot of people with working controllers probably won't even read this thread, but just trying to be helpful
 

zonq

Member
So lots of part numbers..

non working so far from this thread

G38A, A521, G491, G41A, A441, A501

working

G501 (2 people confirmed), G34A

I know a lot of people with working controllers probably won't even read this thread, but just trying to be helpful

Sweet, I just wanted to see what was posted so far, thanks for the work :) My old (broken) right one is missing, G47A
 
So lots of part numbers..

non working so far from this thread

G38A, A521, G491, G41A, A441, A501

working

G501 (2 people confirmed), G34A

I know a lot of people with working controllers probably won't even read this thread, but just trying to be helpful

A491 working fine (left), A501 is right with no issues (i see above an A501 left isn't working for someone?)
 

lionpants

Member
A491 working fine (left), A501 is right with no issues (i see above an A501 left isn't working for someone?)
Ya, my left one is A501. Weird that a left and right would have the same part number... Starting to think that the part number just refers to the rail or something.
 
Just got an answer from the email support of Nintendo Germany. Besides the usual advice (make sure there is no obstacle between joycon and switch etc.), they told me if this doesn't work I should send in the JoyCon (or both) for repair.
I will definitely give this a try.
 

Turrican3

Member
I think that in order to build a somewhat meaningful stat we should also include working distance from the dock/main unit at least.

By the way, where do you guys get that code from?
 

DECK'ARD

The Amiga Brotherhood
A work colleague and I have done a test.

He has problems with his left joycon, it will disconnect at only around 1.5m away from the switch unless you point it straight at it. If you hold it sideways or put it behind your back then it will stop working.

I have no issues with mine at all.

So, just now we have set my switch up on my desk running zelda (portable mode on kickstand). I paired his joycons, and I experienced the same problem he has at home!
Terrible range on left joycon of barely over 1m unless pointing straight at the switch.

next we paired mine, and perfect!?

Even stood 4-5m away AND with the joycons behind my back, link continued to control perfectly with no disconnections at all!

So that's the same switch console, in the same position, with the same person using them, and yet completely different results from 2 pairs of joycons!!!

One set perfect, the other garbage.

Both are switches/joycons are launch day units and both purchased from the same place (shopto).

Thanks for the test.

And yet someone here has tried 4 left joycons on the same machine all with the problem. That seems highly unlikely for a manufacturing issue, more a design one. Both sets of joycons were the ones bundled with the machine?

This is maddening.
 

Red

Member
I've been pretty disappointed by the left joycon performance thus far. There are a few things I don't like about it—the lack of a d pad, the too-slight screenshot button—but by far the most egregious problem are its connectivity drop outs. I sit about six feet away and it has cut out several times. It cuts out if I have my water bottle between the joycon and the Switch, if I hold it too close to my couch cushion, if I hold it against my leg... even the connection tests on YouTube did not prepare my for how tenuous the connection is. I did not expect this many problems when I am sitting barely a body length away and have a clear line of sight to the console.
 

DECK'ARD

The Amiga Brotherhood
I've been pretty disappointed by the left joycon performance thus far. There are a few things I don't like about it—the lack of a d pad, the too-slight screenshot button—but by far the most egregious problem are its connectivity drop outs. I sit about six feet away and it has cut out several times. It cuts out if I have my water bottle between the joycon and the Switch, if I hold it too close to my couch cushion, if I hold it against my leg... even the connection tests on YouTube did not prepare my for how tenuous the connection is. I did not expect this many problems when I am sitting barely a body length away and have a clear line of sight to the console.

It's crap. I'm beginning to think the stars and planets have to align correctly from my position to be able to play properly.

It has very little tolerance for anything, it's like it's operating on the barest minimum of signal and Nintendo have to directly address the issue. Not just ignore the fact that people are using other wireless controllers in the same position and same environment with no problems. This shouldn't be an issue.

You can't fuck the controller up, without it you have no console.
 

NYR

Member
A work colleague and I have done a test.

He has problems with his left joycon, it will disconnect at only around 1.5m away from the switch unless you point it straight at it. If you hold it sideways or put it behind your back then it will stop working.

I have no issues with mine at all.

So, just now we have set my switch up on my desk running zelda (portable mode on kickstand). I paired his joycons, and I experienced the same problem he has at home!
Terrible range on left joycon of barely over 1m unless pointing straight at the switch.

next we paired mine, and perfect!?

Even stood 4-5m away AND with the joycons behind my back, link continued to control perfectly with no disconnections at all!

So that's the same switch console, in the same position, with the same person using them, and yet completely different results from 2 pairs of joycons!!!

One set perfect, the other garbage.

Both are switches/joycons are launch day units and both purchased from the same place (shopto).
Thanks for posting this. This simply confirms there is a bad batch. Nintendo better step up and quickly. Shocked the media isn't following up with Nintendo on this more.
 

Enduin

No bald cap? Lies!
So lots of part numbers..

non working so far from this thread

G38A, A521, G491, G41A, A441, A501

working

G501 (2 people confirmed), G34A

I know a lot of people with working controllers probably won't even read this thread, but just trying to be helpful

I have A421 Left(Working Fine from my limited testing) and A431 Right (Also working fine). Neon set.
 
A work colleague and I have done a test.

He has problems with his left joycon, it will disconnect at only around 1.5m away from the switch unless you point it straight at it. If you hold it sideways or put it behind your back then it will stop working.

I have no issues with mine at all.

So, just now we have set my switch up on my desk running zelda (portable mode on kickstand). I paired his joycons, and I experienced the same problem he has at home!
Terrible range on left joycon of barely over 1m unless pointing straight at the switch.

next we paired mine, and perfect!?

Even stood 4-5m away AND with the joycons behind my back, link continued to control perfectly with no disconnections at all!

So that's the same switch console, in the same position, with the same person using them, and yet completely different results from 2 pairs of joycons!!!

One set perfect, the other garbage.

Both are switches/joycons are launch day units and both purchased from the same place (shopto).
After I tested mine I suspected this. I couldn't possibly have more wireless devices in my house (and a huge fish tank) and I couldn't make the Joycons drop out, regardless of what I tried.

I have a feeling that Nintendo will be good about swapping these out and compensating people for the inconvenience but this is still something that should never have happened.
 
A work colleague and I have done a test.

He has problems with his left joycon, it will disconnect at only around 1.5m away from the switch unless you point it straight at it. If you hold it sideways or put it behind your back then it will stop working.

I have no issues with mine at all.

So, just now we have set my switch up on my desk running zelda (portable mode on kickstand). I paired his joycons, and I experienced the same problem he has at home!
Terrible range on left joycon of barely over 1m unless pointing straight at the switch.

next we paired mine, and perfect!?

Even stood 4-5m away AND with the joycons behind my back, link continued to control perfectly with no disconnections at all!

So that's the same switch console, in the same position, with the same person using them, and yet completely different results from 2 pairs of joycons!!!

One set perfect, the other garbage.

Both are switches/joycons are launch day units and both purchased from the same place (shopto).

can you post the model number of the said joycons?
 

Karanlos

Member
Sorry can't find anything in the thread about seeing the number you guys are refering to? Where do I see that? none match what i see on the serial number page.
 

DECK'ARD

The Amiga Brotherhood
Sorry can't find anything in the thread about seeing the number you guys are refering to? Where do I see that? none match what i see on the serial number page.

There's a small number under the end of the 3 arrow button on the joycons near the bottom.
 

TwoDurans

"Never said I wasn't a hypocrite."
Ya, my left one is A501. Weird that a left and right would have the same part number... Starting to think that the part number just refers to the rail or something.

Where are you seeing the part numbers?

EDIT: Nevermind, post above this has it. G51A here with no issues.
 

canocha

Member
So lots of part numbers..

non working so far from this thread

G38A, A521, G491, G41A, A441, A501

working

G501 (2 people confirmed), G34A

I know a lot of people with working controllers probably won't even read this thread, but just trying to be helpful

G481 on both joy cons (neon) and no problems i tried both behind the back and 3m away and no desync or anything like it.
 

Turrican3

Member
G43A and G511 here, small but basically identical issues (playing at about 2m from the dock) only get unplayable if I wrap my right hand around the left holding the JoyCon.
 

Dartastic

Member
I played with the grip last night, and the controller kept dropping inputs even though I was only like, 6 feet away. That's unacceptable, and Nintendo really needs to get out in front of this ASAP.
 

DjRalford

Member
So lots of part numbers..

non working so far from this thread

G38A, A521, G491, G41A, A441, A501

working

G501 (2 people confirmed), G34A

I know a lot of people with working controllers probably won't even read this thread, but just trying to be helpful


G42A - the odd signal drop from 3m in normal use, calibration shows larger drops behind back.
 

jeffers

Member
G45A, think dodge. my right is G471 and is fine

edit: works better now I moved my Switch. doing the behind back test from ~2m, noticed the left does perform worse with the red right next to it.
 

me0wish

Member
B02A - Japan - colored.

Not so bad left joycon, but it's annoying when you lose control over your character randomly for a couple of milliseconds. Mainly happens when I'm sitting in a way where my leg is in front of the joycon, or my joycons behind my head.

I also noticed that the colored joycons are losing their color on the rail area.

Meh, this is the only real issue I'm having with my switch, I have other joycons but I didn't test them yet, do we need more testing?
 
So lots of part numbers..

non working so far from this thread

G38A, A521, G491, G41A, A441, A501

working

G501 (2 people confirmed), G34A

I know a lot of people with working controllers probably won't even read this thread, but just trying to be helpful

I had the G491. Add A371 as well (my replacement), still doesn't work good enough.
 
Top Bottom