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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

I think the colour separation might be to do with the tv trying to resolve detail.

In Ghost Recon Wildlands you can give your character a ghillie suit...I'm now noticing that the shadows cast by those strands are red and blue, but that separation doesn't happen elsewhere on the character model

Are you sure that's not just the chromatic aberration effect in the game? I don't own it but a quick search reveals some complaints about that game's implementation of the effect.
 
Sounds like your TV is defaulting your source input's device type to something that doesn't support game mode (PC device type for example). Try editing the input, changing it to Game Console and see if that allows you to choose game mode
Yep. That was totally it. Thanks.
 

philm87

Member
The DC definitely depends on the game and the time of day. If I play Horizon at night, I leave the DC off and toggle the HDR brightness at 50%. During the day, I have to toggle DC to low/medium and increase HDR to 60%.

NBA2K17 doesn't have a HDR toggle, so I usually leave the DC on high but that's the only game I do it for.

I've gone back on forth on this issue several times. I personally think it comes down to the game and the lighting in your play space.

I've found that once I've got all my other settings correct I have no need for DC. I used to use it occasionally but now it doesn't help at all as the picture without it is so good, and with everything balanced right it doesn't look too dim.

Horizon doesn't have a separate HDR brightness setting, just an overall in-game brightness setting doesn't it?
 

Blizzje

Member
Could you guys please have a look at the following video:

https://youtu.be/XiaopWHNSnQ

I have a weird discolored spot in the upper right and lower left part of the screen. It's only visible from the right side and it looks like there is some image retention going on. I still have warranty (the tv is 5 months old). It's the 60" KS7000 model.

Any ideas what this is? I have this issue regardless of input and frankly it looks like a busted panel. Will Samsung cover this in the warranty?

Edit: the issues aren't visible from the front as you can see. The issues are also not visible during 'normal viewing' from the sides, but are visible for example when you see a bright blue sky. From the front, nothing can be seen.
 

Symphonia

Banned
Yeah, for everything. With the white balance and colour spacing is hit and miss whether it will work with your panel. The colour setting may vary slightly too, I have mine set 52, whereas those settings say 49.

The main improvements I've had from using these settings, are a big improvement in contrast, and also reds and greens are balanced much better, as well as all colours looking better overall. I look at the picture now and everything just seems spot on. love it.
So I adjusted my settings and changed them to those settings - everything looks so much better and cleaner and brighter. I'm going to play some Horizon later, but even titles like Hitman look better with HDR enabled on the new settings.
 

chaosaeon

Member
So I adjusted my settings and changed them to those settings - everything looks so much better and cleaner and brighter. I'm going to play some Horizon later, but even titles like Hitman look better with HDR enabled on the new settings.

I'm trying these settings right now but wrote down my old ones so I can compare them later. I think my set must have a higher base saturation because if I set the color to 49 everything starts to look unnatural in an almost cartoonish way.
 

Symphonia

Banned
I'm trying these settings right now but wrote down my old ones so I can compare them later. I think my set must have a higher base saturation because if I set the color to 49 everything starts to look unnatural in an almost cartoonish way.
You can always tweak the colour and white space settings. As someone pointed out, each screen is different to every other one, so there are no universal settings as such.
 
man all these updates and still, when i close netflix my youtube app is still open (frozen) in the background. Do they implement fixes or what...
 

philm87

Member
I'm trying these settings right now but wrote down my old ones so I can compare them later. I think my set must have a higher base saturation because if I set the color to 49 everything starts to look unnatural in an almost cartoonish way.

Yeah set the colour to what looks right on your screen cos they will differ. Mine looks right at 52.

This 4k HDR calibration vid is useful if you open it up on the TV's youtube app and pause it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEtUF7RT3pw

Mine at 52 is at the level where the red, green, and blue blocks all look the same level and don't look over saturated, they just look full. If I keep dropping below 52 the blue goes dull rapidly (as in there's a big drop off in blue just putting it down to 51), shortly followed by the red and green. If I turn it above 52 the 3 colours gradually become oversaturated at about the same rate, so I figure 52 must be the right level for me.
 
As someone pointed out, each screen is different to every other one, so there are no universal settings as such.

There are so many settings and they interplay with each other, not to mention different viewing environments. There's no "one size fits all" solution to TV settings. You can get a good starting point from someone's calibrated settings online but you will always need to make adjustments for your situation. Even if the panel and environment were exactly the same, one man's "cartoonish and unnatural" is another man's "looks good!".
 

Jim

Member
Anyone come across the issue where the WiFi doesn't always properly reconnect after the TV is shut off? Tried assigning manual IP, new DNS, alternate SSID and routers, etc. SmartHub icon says "Connected", but nothing works unless I re-select an SSID and re-enter the password. Router is only a few feet from the TV, so not a connection quality issue. Works great when it's actually connected.
 

Symphonia

Banned
There are so many settings and they interplay with each other, not to mention different viewing environments. There's no "one size fits all" solution to TV settings. You can get a good starting point from someone's calibrated settings online but you will always need to make adjustments for your situation. Even if the panel and environment were exactly the same, one man's "cartoonish and unnatural" is another man's "looks good!".
Cheers for mansplaining for me.
 

Baro

Neo Member
man all these updates and still, when i close netflix my youtube app is still open (frozen) in the background. Do they implement fixes or what...

Have you tried to fully close the app? It happens to me that youtube or spotify are frozen and the way to fix it is to hold the back button while on the app until it closes, then select it again and it will start normally.
 

Syrus

Banned
You an literally watch detail disappear when you turn dynamic contrast on. I don't recommend it for anything HDR.


This is just untrue in every sense.

Most HDR blu rays and netflix and amazon DC is needed or shit has like a gray and dark filter.

HDR Video games though DC is optional but some need it if it darkens too much

SDR content does not need DC but games are optional again
 
Have you tried to fully close the app? It happens to me that youtube or spotify are frozen and the way to fix it is to hold the back button while on the app until it closes, then select it again and it will start normally.

I normally press 'back' then do exit via the app and it closes. Then ill open netflix watch a movie, close netflix when im done by doing back and exit, and when it closes instead of going to the TV, the youtube will be open but not responsive as if it was never closed even though i did. So i have to select the app to open youtube again then close it and it will go away.

every fucking time
 

Baro

Neo Member
I normally press 'back' then do exit via the app and it closes. Then ill open netflix watch a movie, close netflix when im done by doing back and exit, and when it closes instead of going to the TV, the youtube will be open but not responsive as if it was never closed even though i did. So i have to select the app to open youtube again then close it and it will go away.

every fucking time

When you press back or turn off the tv, the app remains suspended, so when you "re open" it you can continue where you left it. The only way to close any app is to hold the back button until it closes. That way, when you close netflix it should start on tv or the last source you used.
 
When you press back or turn off the tv, the app remains suspended, so when you "re open" it you can continue where you left it. The only way to close any app is to hold the back button until it closes. That way, when you close netflix it should start on tv or the last source you used.

Ahhhhhh well thats not clear at all. I thought exit was a full close.
 
Right now HDR movies across the board also have an issue with being dim, in order to preserve the detail in the brightest of scenes. When dynamic HDR like Dolby Vision and HDR10+ get in use it won't be an issue anymore.

So until then you can use DC like a poor man's DV :) It works very well up to medium anyways.

I always assumed that this is by design - normal medium is designed to be watched with lights on while HDR is designed to be watched like in cinema in darkness.
 

vpance

Member
I always assumed that this is by design - normal medium is designed to be watched with lights on while HDR is designed to be watched like in cinema in darkness.

It's only designed to be that way now because all HDR content is made with one static setting for the entire movie, episode, game, or whatever, so they use cinema viewing light levels as a reference, rather than Joe Schmos daytime vivid settings. But even then some HDR content is still made too dimly.

Eventually all content will be HDR including cable TV and we certainly won't be forced to watch in the dark all time. Dynamic HDR will help bring up brightness in "normal" scenes, and TV settings will get smarter at adjusting brightness for people that need it or are watching in the daytime, without killing dark or highlight details.

Actually there are UHD players out that already that have a work around for HDR dimness, so manufactures know about this problem.
 
Good news, i got the hdr isf calibration for the set. B_rad4 over at avs was kind enough to share his settings with me a couple days ago. The main difference between these correct hdr settings vs the modification i was using is color gamut. The hdr mode is displaying in bt 2020 vs rec 709 sdr was probably calibrated for, the colors certainly look more vivid in hdr now. Here are the settings:

Backlight 20
Brightness 45
Contrast 93
Sharpness 0
Color 49
Smart LED high
Color tone Warm 2

White Balance
2 Point
R-Off -10
G-Off 0
B-Off -8
R-Gain -6
G-Gain -6
B-Gain 0

10 Point
10%
Red -10
Green -3
Blue 0

20%
-5
0
0

30%
-5
-6
0

40%
-5
0
0

50%
-5
0
0

60%
-5
0
0

70,80,90,100
All 0


Red
46
5
0

Green
4
30
0

Blue
0
5
44

Yellow
54
49
2

Cyan
13
50
50

Magenta
50
8
38

Now he did mention that the hdr calibration isn't perfectly dialed in as the sdr settings but that is understandable considering hdr calibration is still in its infancy and a major pain. The hdr looks absolutely amazing now with the correct color saturation. Recently i have been using movie mode for both sdr/hdr gaming, i don't really notice the input lag that much and it allows me to enable blur reduction to reduce the motion blur in scenes.

Here are my hdr settings using the above as the base for color and white balance:
Backlight 18
Brightness 43
Contrast 99
Sharpness 0
Color 49
Auto Motion Plus: Blur Reduction 4, Judder reduction 0
Smart LED high
Color tone Warm 2
Gamma 1


White Balance
2 Point
R-Off -10
G-Off 0
B-Off -8
R-Gain -6
G-Gain -6
B-Gain 0

10 Point
10%
Red -10
Green -3
Blue 0

20%
-5
0
0

30%
-5
-6
0

40%
-5
0
0

50%
-5
0
0

60%
-5
0
0

70,80,90,100
All 0


Red
46
5
0

Green
4
30
0

Blue
0
5
44

Yellow
54
49
2

Cyan
13
50
50

Magenta
50
8
38
The modification made the blacks look better on my set, also the overall picture looks brighter now which really helps movie mode not look as dim. If you want some reference material to test the new settings here are a couple of examples:

SDR:
Video 1
Video 2 Death Stranding 4k teaser (loaded with micro detail).

HDR:
Video
I might post my modified movie sdr settings later today.
That would be me over at AVS :)
Glad they are working out well for you.

Hey what a cool coincidence you are also on neogaf. Thanks for the settings again, they look spectacular!
 

Belker

Member
Are you sure that's not just the chromatic aberration effect in the game? I don't own it but a quick search reveals some complaints about that game's implementation of the effect.

I hadn't heard of this before. It could be that, but the confusing thing is that I've never seen it before in that context, or at least noticed it.

Maybe they're related somehow; the short sharp separation of colours from the TV and the persistent probelsm generated by the game.
 

Belker

Member
Good news, i got the hdr isf calibration for the set. B_rad4 over at avs was kind enough to share his settings with me a couple days ago. The main difference between these correct hdr settings vs the modification i was using is color gamut. The hdr mode is displaying in bt 2020 vs rec 709 sdr was probably calibrated for, the colors certainly look more vivid in hdr now. Here are the settings:

What colour temperature are you supposed to use with these settings? I'm used to playing on Warm 2, but I don't know if there's any point in that with all these tweaks.
 
What colour temperature are you supposed to use with these settings? I'm used to playing on Warm 2, but I don't know if there's any point in that with all these tweaks.
Without detailed calibrations warm 2 can be anything like 5800k, 6000k...etc, it's supposed to get close to the industry standard D6500k but if you don't do fine grain calibrations to the white balance it won't be a flat 6500k. For example my gt50 plasma was calibrated years ago and it even has a 2 point white balance, this tv has a 2 point and 10 point white balance control with individual color dialing.

I have both side by side and the difference is immediately noticeable. The ks8000 absolutely dominates my plasma all while no dithering, flickering and having amazing colors. Maybe the black level is a little worse but it's a worthy tradeoff considering how bright this set can get.
 

Belker

Member
Without detailed calibrations warm 2 can be anything like 5800k, 6000k...etc, it's supposed to get close to the industry standard D6500k but if you don't do fine grain calibrations to the white balance it won't be a flat 6500k. For example my gt50 plasma was calibrated years ago and it even has a 2 point white balance, this tv has a 2 point and 10 point white balance control with individual color dialing.

I have both side by side and the difference is immediately noticeable. The ks8000 absolutely dominates my plasma all while no dithering, flickering and having amazing colors. Maybe the black level is a little worse but it's a worthy tradeoff considering how bright this set can get.

EDIT - ignore this. Sorry, I had a brain fart and missed the warm 2 recommendation in your second list of calibrations.


Thanks for the reply.
 

tiku

Member
Well, now I'm really confused...

I've been using HDMI Black Level on Normal for almost two months, played inFAMOUS Second Son with HDR activated and seemed fine, all was ok... until I tried Uncharted 4.

When HDR is enabled, Uncharted 4, looks way too dim. Even with the settings posted a few pages ago. The only way to feel comfortable with the game is switching to "Auto" or "Low"the HDMI Black Level, and I don't know if that's the right thing to do.

What level of HDMI Black do you usually use, pals? I'm also thinking in buying a new HDMI cable... :\
 

hemtaro

Neo Member
Had my ks8000 for 3 months now and one morning i wake up to a bunch of small brownish looking bubble stains on the screen. So i unplugged and gently wiped down screen with lightly damped cloths. A week later it shows up again but fewer than usual. My room is pretty clean so i cant figure where these air bubble stains are coming from. Anyone with such issues?
 

M_A_C

Member
Anyone ever figure out how to make the hdmi input quit changing to PC when a PC in used? It's so annoying to have to keep changing it to "game console" or whatever every time to get the game mode settings.
 

philm87

Member
Well, now I'm really confused...

I've been using HDMI Black Level on Normal for almost two months, played inFAMOUS Second Son with HDR activated and seemed fine, all was ok... until I tried Uncharted 4.

When HDR is enabled, Uncharted 4, looks way too dim. Even with the settings posted a few pages ago. The only way to feel comfortable with the game is switching to "Auto" or "Low"the HDMI Black Level, and I don't know if that's the right thing to do.

What level of HDMI Black do you usually use, pals? I'm also thinking in buying a new HDMI cable... :\

The HDMI Black level should be greyed out when HDR is running as it's not applicable.

For non-HDR the PS4 RGB level should tie in with the TV's HDMI Black Level. So is the PS4's RBG is on full, the TV needs to be set to Normal, if the PS4 RBL is set to limited the HDMI black level whould be set to low. There's not much difference which of the two combinations you use, but I still with FULL/NORMAL.
 

Garwoofoo

Neo Member
Well, now I'm really confused...

I've been using HDMI Black Level on Normal for almost two months, played inFAMOUS Second Son with HDR activated and seemed fine, all was ok... until I tried Uncharted 4.

When HDR is enabled, Uncharted 4, looks way too dim. Even with the settings posted a few pages ago. The only way to feel comfortable with the game is switching to "Auto" or "Low"the HDMI Black Level, and I don't know if that's the right thing to do.

What level of HDMI Black do you usually use, pals? I'm also thinking in buying a new HDMI cable... :

Like I was saying a few posts back, games seem to approach HDR in different ways. For games that dim the screen when HDR is activated, try setting Dynamic Contrast to Low or Medium and see if this gives you the result you are looking for.
 

tiku

Member
Thanks for your help and time, mates!

I'm worried about being able to switch the HDMI Black Level when playing a HDR game... Am I doing something terribly wrong? :O
 

philm87

Member
Thanks for your help and time, mates!

I'm worried about being able to switch the HDMI Black Level when playing a HDR game... Am I doing something terribly wrong? :O

Does the screen go black for a second then pop up with a message saying "A HDR Video Is Playing" when you load up a HDR game? It should on this TV.

Also check the video output information section in the PS4 settings whilst a HDR game is playing, it should tell you there that it has HDR running.

Did you switch UHD Colour on for the HDMI port in the expert video settings on the TV?
 

tiku

Member
Does the screen go black for a second then pop up with a message saying "A HDR Video Is Playing" when you load up a HDR game? It should on this TV.

Also check the video output information section in the PS4 settings whilst a HDR game is playing, it should tell you there that it has HDR running.

Did you switch UHD Colour on for the HDMI port in the expert video settings on the TV?

Yes, the message pop ups and when I press the "i" button on the remote the HDR info is listed... I also switched de UHD Colour... But I'm still able to change tha HDMI black level.

Strange, isn't it?
 

tiku

Member
Confused. Is it the original PS4 or the Pro? Does the PS4 say it's outputting HDR and does it say YUV or RGB on the video output info?

It's the original PS4, not Pro.

The PS4 is saying RGB(HDR) and HDR compatible.

I have the TV running the 1165 firmware.
 

philm87

Member
It's the original PS4, not Pro.

The PS4 is saying RGB(HDR) and HDR compatible.

I have the TV running the 1165 firmware.

Ahh okay, must work a bit different on the original PS4. On the Pro it only outputs HDR in YUV, so that's why it doesn't give the option of the HDMI Black Level.

I'm guessing the original must only output at 8-bit if it's in RGB as it wouldn't have enough bandwidth to do 10-bit. Might need someone else to weigh in on that though.

Are there any YUV options under resolution on the original PS4?
 

tiku

Member
Ahh okay, must work a bit different on the original PS4. On the Pro it only outputs HDR in YUV, so that's why it doesn't give the option of the HDMI Black Level.

I'm guessing the original must only output at 8-bit if it's in RGB as it wouldn't have enough bandwidth to do 10-bit. Might need someone else to weigh in on that though.

Are there any YUV options under resolution on the original PS4?

Only the usual: 480p, 720p, 1080i/p. No sign of YUV options :\

Let's see if somebody can confirm what kind of HDR does the original PS4 displays.
 
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