DreadfulOmen
Member
i'm more of a movie guy, so it doesn't matter to me if it works with games or not. I still have my doubts that this TV will get dynamic metadata. Has samsung said anything in the past few months about it?
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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
- Start date
i'm more of a movie guy, so it doesn't matter to me if it works with games or not. I still have my doubts that this TV will get dynamic metadata. Has samsung said anything in the past few months about it?
Wishmaster92
Member
dragonzdogma
Member
Bought this tv back in November and the screen suddenly displayed 3 horizontal lines (like dead pixels lines)
so I called Samsung to come and change the panel- now two months later the back plastic panel is separating from the TV.
My question to you guys- has anyone had issues since you bough the tv since November and do you constantly use the backlit option at 20?
I never go below 20 when I'm watching TV or playing games
so I called Samsung to come and change the panel- now two months later the back plastic panel is separating from the TV.
My question to you guys- has anyone had issues since you bough the tv since November and do you constantly use the backlit option at 20?
I never go below 20 when I'm watching TV or playing games
DreadfulOmen
Member
@Wishmaster92
Here's a few pics of Horizon using your settings, walking around Meridian. Basically anything at a distance further than 20 feet has a slight haze in that city. With those settings the colors of everything on my set just get ridiculous like the haze turning blue like that.
I've been playing with settings based on your post to try and fix it, but just copying all your numbers one by one gives me those pics.
Here's a few pics of Horizon using your settings, walking around Meridian. Basically anything at a distance further than 20 feet has a slight haze in that city. With those settings the colors of everything on my set just get ridiculous like the haze turning blue like that.
I've been playing with settings based on your post to try and fix it, but just copying all your numbers one by one gives me those pics.
Wasn't this determined to be because of insufficient HDMI cables? Make sure you use the one that came with your PS4 Pro and not something older.
Definitely not. I'm 100% using the one that came with my PlayStation 4 Pro. I'd love for you to tell me I'm wrong though.
Then I don't know dude, sorry. Have you tried switching HDMI slots on the OneConnect box to see if it still happens? And what is your PS4 video output set to? If auto, see output info and see if it says Yuv or RGB.
I don't think I have tried switching. Might be a good idea. I did have it on Auto. Seems to be fixed when I set to RGB, but am I losing HDR?
A lot of people seem to be having the issue. It's really random. Sometimes it'll happen once in a 3 hour period and other times it'll happen 5 times in a minute.
This is second hand info from this very thread, but iirc setting it to RGB loses 10-bit HDR. From what I have read, if it fixes itself by switching to RGB - it's an HDMI cable issue...
Use a calibration video and see what the whites look like. I can't remember if that's the way it's supposed to look in game or not.
Imp the Dimp
Member
So I should leave the settings on standard when transmitting my PC?
Wishmaster92
Member
@Wishmaster92
Here's a few pics of Horizon using your settings, walking around Meridian. Basically anything at a distance further than 20 feet has a slight haze in that city. With those settings the colors of everything on my set just get ridiculous like the haze turning blue like that.
I've been playing with settings based on your post to try and fix it, but just copying all your numbers one by one gives me those pics.
That's very strange, is the haze really that blue? I will take some pictures later today and see how it compares on my set but i don't remember it looking that blue. What panel do you have? It's on the back of the tv either AA02 or FA01?
Yes it's really that blue, lol. My panel is an FA01. Two of the pics were taken in Meridian and then I used the photomode to adjust Time to 12:00 noon.
Wait, what? Every time I come back to this thread another mind-blowing revelation about this TV seems to pop up. Is this bit about RGB losing 10-bit HDR confirmed in any way? My PS4 Pro set to auto always seems to detect the best possible output format and HDR always kicks in properly, so what is this about?
No, if you set it to RGB on PS4 Pro it automatically switches to YUV422 for HDR.
It tells you what's currently being output on the video output information section in video settings.
Well HDMI 2.0 doesn't support 10-bit RGB @ 4k60 so that makes sense
Is that what's supposedly getting fixed with an eventual update for this ?
It automatically switches to YUV422 on PS4 PRO for HDR content, even if you have it set to RGB.
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
Plug it into your receiver if you have one. If not, no.
Can second this. My switch goes into the receiver and havent had it change inputs once.
Joei
Member
What kind of receiver? Do you mean like for satellite tv or surround sound? Is there a device I can buy so that I don't have to disconnect the hdmi from the box that Samsung gave us?
Mitochondrion
Member
Is there any chance we could have the first post on this thread updated with up-to-date information about this TV? For HDR, SDR etc for PlayStation 4 and PlayStation 4 Pro? The last time it was updated was on November.
There's not really anything to add imo. OP has all the info you need. What setting are you unsure about?
Does it not help by turning AnyNet off?
PLASTICA-MAN
Member
But will this be as good as the Dynamic Metadata HDR of HDM 2.1 and Dolby TrueVision?
So is the color separation thing something to be concerned about? I've only encountered it a couple of times, both being in the PS4 menu and it only lasts for a second. Is this something that could be fixed through firmware if they ever get around to it? I really hope my TV's not messed up because other than this one issue it's been flawless :/
Quick Mustard
Member
I dont know about anyone else, but I own this TV, and all I simply do is turn the Switch completely off by holding the power button down and selecting Power Off.
It hasnt switched inputs since doing that.
Granted, it does mean the Switch isnt in sleep mode, but considering how fast it boots, its not a concern for me.
I'd rather not have the TV randomly change inputs during EastEnders or a movie than have to deal with pausing the TV and changing back etc.
According to the official Samsung forums, they are aware of the issue and are discussing a solution with programmers. The issue is concerning due to the fact that it hasn't been fixed in six months. Also, the occasional black screen flashing is concerning because it definitely has something to do with the bandwidth: switch the PS4 pro to YUV420 and the issues are entirely gone.
That is also true for the color seperation: switch to YUV420 and the issues are gone. This also leads me to believe it is a bandwidth/software issue.
So in short: it's not your tv, everyone has this issue but it really depends if you notice it. If they ever fix it, that's the question. I wish I'd known about this before I dropped nearly 2k on my 60", but YUV420 is an easy fix and there is no discernable image quality difference, so it's OK for now. I'll be pissed if this doesn't get fixed down the road though.
Imp the Dimp
Member
I got my PC hooked up to the TV and when I want to change the resolution I can either choose 1080p or 4k, but nothing inbetween. Witcher 3 for instance runs at 50-60fps on my 1440p monitor so I'd like to choose that resolution for my KS8000 too. Do I have to force it through the Nvidia driver or is there a simpler way?
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
You would think so but according to other posters turning that off (and the HDMI control setting on the Switch) has no effect. I haven't tested it personally since I use a receiver but I can tell you I have HDMI-CEC turned off everywhere because I find it more annoying than helpful.
Most people agree that it's just a glitch and not a failing component, so I don't think it will get worse over time or anything. If you can live with it now, there's nothing to worry about as it won't get worse. It doesn't worry me in the slightest.
I have my PC connected to the One Connect box and the One Connect to my Denon AVR via ARC. If I go to configure my speakers in Windows 10, the only available option is stereo. If I connect the PC directly to the AVR then it shows all the options.
Any idea how I can resolve this (besides connecting the PC directly to the AVR)?
Any idea how I can resolve this (besides connecting the PC directly to the AVR)?
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
ARC has very limited audio support. You could go into the TV and set the audio-output to Dolby Digital, I think? That might help. But the best you can do with ARC is either Stereo or compressed 5.1 (Dolby Digital). Why not hook the PC to the AVR? Does your AVR introduce significant lag or something?
I have my Apple TV and satellite TV going to the AVR so it's a hassle to keep on switching between game and movie mode if the PC is going through the same source.
M_A_C
Member
Yeah but thats what you have to do to get true 5.1 or higher from a PC with this TV.
The OS of this TV is really annoying and crappy in some ways. Especially how it always changes the HDMI to PC and therefore limiting the options unless you change it back.
I setup my mom's Sony 850d the other day and it was much nicer, I wish I had stuck with Sony sometimes.
Thanks guys, good to hear that they could fix this in the future, here's hoping they actually do lol. I've only seen the blinking/black screen thing once while playing Titanfall a few weeks ago, thought it was going to my Switch again but that wasn't docked... weird stuff
ReplacementPelican
Member
UK Gaffer, looking to buy the KS7000 (KS8000 in the US) and went into John Lewis to have a quick look and according to the salesman they're changing the 'codes' due to new models coming out for 2017. What's the new equivalent of this? Should I still just seek out at KS7000 elsewhere?
BeardyChan
Member
So since we're talking about issues with this set in this thread can someone maybe explain if I'm making an issue out of a software fault or if my set really does have an issue.
I've already had the main board and panel swapped. I also got a new one connect and the issues are still happening. I just got the new panel yesterday and the same green line wiggs out and the audio is getting bad and not syncing. I already swapped out my Comcast box and got into the master service menu to check EDID and everything looks fine. All of the HDMI cords have also been replaced and the one connect cable has been as well.
Examples of some issues:
https://goo.gl/photos/VWRzsUi23zrBVy1V7
I've already had the main board and panel swapped. I also got a new one connect and the issues are still happening. I just got the new panel yesterday and the same green line wiggs out and the audio is getting bad and not syncing. I already swapped out my Comcast box and got into the master service menu to check EDID and everything looks fine. All of the HDMI cords have also been replaced and the one connect cable has been as well.
Examples of some issues:
https://goo.gl/photos/VWRzsUi23zrBVy1V7
I can't say I've had any issues at all with the screen, and certainly nothing like what you've shown. That looks crazy. As far as audio sync goes, I find that any audio that goes through the TV ends up out of sync. So, if you're passing audio through the TV in any way you're going to see some sync issues, especially in game mode. I've had to start using an optical cable again to go strait to my receiver until I can get a new 4K compatible receiver. It really sucks because I loved being able to control everything through ARC.
Hey GAF!
Since some driver update (970GTX) my TV is suddenly only recognized as a Ultra HD TV in the control panel. Now my 4k resolution is still fine, meaning i get 60hz. But i cant run most games in 4k, so i need 2560*1440. But i only get 30hz in this mode. if i set a custom resolution the screen just stays black.
Under PC display i just dont get any usable resolutions/refresh rates. Now before the update it was fine, or i just could set a custom res and refresh rate. Deleting and reinstalling drivers didnt help. I dont really care in which mode it is, as long as i get the normal resolutions @ 60hz.
I added some screenshots, to show the nvidia control panel. Pls halp
http://imgur.com/a/Ybu4n
Since some driver update (970GTX) my TV is suddenly only recognized as a Ultra HD TV in the control panel. Now my 4k resolution is still fine, meaning i get 60hz. But i cant run most games in 4k, so i need 2560*1440. But i only get 30hz in this mode. if i set a custom resolution the screen just stays black.
Under PC display i just dont get any usable resolutions/refresh rates. Now before the update it was fine, or i just could set a custom res and refresh rate. Deleting and reinstalling drivers didnt help. I dont really care in which mode it is, as long as i get the normal resolutions @ 60hz.
I added some screenshots, to show the nvidia control panel. Pls halp
http://imgur.com/a/Ybu4n
Auto_aim1
MeisaMcCaffrey
Thank god for firmware update. I was about to explode on these motherfuckers. Just got my KS9000 today.
Had a really annoying issue thats really particular, but i've found a solution, so here goes for anyone watching HDR content on netflix with subs.
Basically, subs on netflix are rendered at peak brightness, for visibility. This means the sub portion of the screen has to be lit up by the edge lighting inherent in the KS8000. Having smart LED set to high (or low) since you're watching HDR and want to get the most out of the standard, will make dark(ish) scenes bloom whenever the subs are on-screen, leading to a noticable brigtness change near the top of the screen, due to edge lighting. Once you notice this, it gets to be infuriating, as it almost acts like an eco-sensor on molly, becuase the subs usually arent displayed constantly.
A reference scene - second episode of Iron fist, 35:00 in, Danny is lying in bed talking to a dude. Really noticable.
You've got 3 choices to limit this, 2 of them sub-par:
1): Watch without subs, which won't be viable for everyone
2): disable SMART LED, which kinda makes HDR content moot,
OR
3): Customize your subs via netflix.com under account, and make them semi-transparent. Then reload the netflix app to make the subs refresh. White subs will appear more like a muted light grey, and the peak brightness of these should not noticably lead to blooming when there's subs in darker scenes.
I've no idea if this happens on UHD content or if its netflix-exclusive, since i dont have a UHD player, but its such a relief to have found a fix.
Basically, subs on netflix are rendered at peak brightness, for visibility. This means the sub portion of the screen has to be lit up by the edge lighting inherent in the KS8000. Having smart LED set to high (or low) since you're watching HDR and want to get the most out of the standard, will make dark(ish) scenes bloom whenever the subs are on-screen, leading to a noticable brigtness change near the top of the screen, due to edge lighting. Once you notice this, it gets to be infuriating, as it almost acts like an eco-sensor on molly, becuase the subs usually arent displayed constantly.
A reference scene - second episode of Iron fist, 35:00 in, Danny is lying in bed talking to a dude. Really noticable.
You've got 3 choices to limit this, 2 of them sub-par:
1): Watch without subs, which won't be viable for everyone
2): disable SMART LED, which kinda makes HDR content moot,
OR
3): Customize your subs via netflix.com under account, and make them semi-transparent. Then reload the netflix app to make the subs refresh. White subs will appear more like a muted light grey, and the peak brightness of these should not noticably lead to blooming when there's subs in darker scenes.
I've no idea if this happens on UHD content or if its netflix-exclusive, since i dont have a UHD player, but its such a relief to have found a fix.
WolfRathmA
Member
This is the biggest problem with this TV because it was terrible local dimming when it comes to black scenes. On HDR is very noticeable because the TV brightness is to maximum. It also happens when you watch 4K content without HDR or 1080p when the scene is dark. The only option is to change the subtitles color to yellow. But it also happening and is very annoying.
Hm, i wonder if it is a panel-to-panel issue. Just watched Moonlight on it with white subs. Not HDR, but it is a very dark film. Can't see anything wrong there. I'm only able to replicate it with HDR on netflix so far.