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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

Gearskin

Neo Member
I think every 65ks out there has those, including mine. Provide some pics so we know what you mean.

warm 1 warm 2 standard debate

Got my screen ISF calibrated about a week ago. The difference between a "out of the box warm 2" and a calibrated one is staggering. I was a standard/normal user for years, but now that my set is calibrated there's no way I can go back to warm 1 or standard. White becomes blue, it's the truth. Here are a couple of screens the ISF guy took after he worked on my set(this is warm 2).
Interesting fact: custom color space calibrated is different in game mode and movie mode.

87c48075-8701-4269-83a3-98e9096470f9.png


7590d2a4-875e-4661-b380-ac59680d3388.png

do you mind sharing your new movie and gaming calibration?
 

A.Romero

Member
I think the basic rule-of-thumb is if you can't see the smuge/spot/etc. during normal viewing, then don't try to clean it. It's not worth the risk because you may make things far worse. My dog has gotten several spots of...drool I guess on the screen, but I can only see them when the set is turned off or I'm looking at it from an extreme angle, so I've let it be.

I've had to clean visible smudges off before, though. I have a Monster brand screen cleaning cloth and spray solution I got at Best Buy years ago that has worked well on the screen. I spray the cloth once or twice, then very gently wipe the affected area very lightly in a circular motion and then allow it to dry. No residue or ill-effects. Do not try to clean the whole screen. Whatever you do, do not apply too much pressure. That can fuck up these edge-lit LCD panels quicker than anything.

Thanks. Good to know.

Just received my set and only had to clean the finger smudges from placing the screen. I've been scared to try something else because of all the comments I've read related to the moth eye filter.

BTW, in you opinion does it really help with reflections?
 

Hostile_18

Banned
So I've got the engineers out tonorrow to replace the pannel AGAIN. So I'll check for lightbleed and dead pixels.. anything else I should check for? Are people's back pannels perfectly flush all the way around? One thing I noticed on the replacement was they were using less tape (just a few inch square dots).

Edit; on the subject of calibration. I use warm 1 with dc turned off etc. It's crazy how "wrong" everything looks going back to the default picture settings of Neautral and colour Native (Not Auto).

It's actually today there coming so if anyone has any advice that would he great. Hopefully I get a decent pannel today!
 

N1tr0sOx1d3

Given another chance
Advice please.

My TV has produced a fault at the bottom of the screen both the left and right corners have a white spot. Similar to the image I have provided although not as pronounced.

maxresdefault.jpg


Sorry unable to take a picture of my TV at present as I'm away for work.

I can only really see it when my TV image is pure white. Everything else is acceptable.

Is this something that can be fixed via firmware?
If it is indeed a fault that could potentially get worse, would I need to send the TV back to Samsung or will an engineer repair at my home (UK)?

Never dealt with a faulty TV before.

Thanks in advance.
 

WolfRathmA

Member
Advice please.

My TV has produced a fault at the bottom of the screen both the left and right corners have a white spot. Similar to the image I have provided although not as pronounced.

maxresdefault.jpg


Sorry unable to take a picture of my TV at present as I'm away for work.

I can only really see it when my TV image is pure white. Everything else is acceptable.

Is this something that can be fixed via firmware?
If it is indeed a fault that could potentially get worse, would I need to send the TV back to Samsung or will an engineer repair at my home (UK)?

Never dealt with a faulty TV before.

Thanks in advance.

Need panel replacement.
 

OrionFalls

Member
This! Come on Man!
His WB/CS settings are suited for his specific panel. Every panel that comes out the factory is different. Whereas the settings are great for his panel, they will not look good on yours. No two panels are the same. Use the main settings by all means, but it’s a bad idea to use their specific white balance and colour space settings.
 
I will post main settings tonight when I get home. It very true about white balance and color space, not 2 panels are the same. You could do more harm than good.
 
Advice please.

My TV has produced a fault at the bottom of the screen both the left and right corners have a white spot. Similar to the image I have provided although not as pronounced.

maxresdefault.jpg


Sorry unable to take a picture of my TV at present as I'm away for work.

I can only really see it when my TV image is pure white. Everything else is acceptable.

Is this something that can be fixed via firmware?
If it is indeed a fault that could potentially get worse, would I need to send the TV back to Samsung or will an engineer repair at my home (UK)?

Never dealt with a faulty TV before.

Thanks in advance.

The LEDs cover in the backlight probably escaped their correct placement. Get in touch with Samsung,
 
I am looking for a TV that has dolby vision compatibility. Why do some of the lower priced Vizio M series TVs from 2017 have dolby vision compatibility?
 

Hostile_18

Banned
Well the good news screen is replaced... the bad news I need a new back pannel. Round 3 next week lol... there bringing extra tape!
 

N1tr0sOx1d3

Given another chance
Must be costing Samsung a fortune all these repairs. I'm certainly not a profitable customer two £800+ repairs later (and one more to go albeit no where near as costly).

Its really disapointing. Incredible TV at a good price.

Issues like these shouldn't be around in 2017.
 
BTW, in you opinion does it really help with reflections?

I think it's better than no coating. There are still reflections though they are a muted purplish color instead of clear. It's not really a problem for me as I've placed my TV where there are no windows on the opposite side of the room and at night the light source is behind the TV where it can't be reflected (and enhances perceived contrast).
 

mckmas8808

Mckmaster uses MasterCard to buy Slave drives
His WB/CS settings are suited for his specific panel. Every panel that comes out the factory is different. Whereas the settings are great for his panel, they will not look good on yours. No two panels are the same. Use the main settings by all means, but it’s a bad idea to use their specific white balance and colour space settings.

This sucks to learn.
 
I will post main settings tonight when I get home. It very true about white balance and color space, not 2 panels are the same. You could do more harm than good.


Movie Mode SDR

Picture Mode: MOVIE
Special Viewing Mode: everything off
Picture Size: 16:9 standard, Auto Wide OFF, Fit to screen ON
Backlight: between 10-12(max) depending on your room's lighting conditions
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 84
Sharpness: 14
Color: 50
Tint: leave untouched
Digital Clean View: OFF
Auto Motion Plus: Custom (Blur Reduction 10, Judder 0, LED Clear Motion OFF)
Smart Led: LOW
Film Mode: AUTO 2
Dynamic Contrast: OFF
Colour Tone: WARM 2
White Balance: leave untouched, my settings won't apply for your set here **
Gamma: -1
RGB Only mode: OFF
Colour Space: AUTO **

GAME MODE SDR

Picture Mode: MOVIE
Special Viewing Mode: GAME mode ON
Picture Size: 16:9 standard, Auto Wide OFF, Fit to screen ON
Backlight: between 10-12(max) depending on your room's lighting conditions
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 85
Sharpness: 10
Color: 50
Tint: leave untouched
Smart Led: LOW
Dynamic Contrast: OFF
Colour Tone: WARM 2
White Balance: leave untouched, my settings won't apply for your set here **
Gamma: 0
RGB Only mode: OFF
Colour Space: AUTO **

GAME MODE HDR - apply GAME MODE SDR settings with the following differences:
Backlight: 20
Contrast: 100
Smart Led: HIGH


** (my custom color space, 2 point and 10 point white balance will NOT apply for your set since every TV has it's very own characteristics out the factory door. Problem is this is THE most important part of ISF calibration, colors are deep, vibrant without being oversaturated)

Applying these will get you the closest to ISF standards for MY SET. Like I said, white balance and color space won't apply for your TVs for sure like I explained above.

If you're going to use these settings the least you could do is come back here with feedback. Would be very interesting to read your opinions. Let your eyes adjust to warm 2 for a couple of days, white will become light blue with standard or warm 1.
 

Hostile_18

Banned
Thanks for posting.

Trying your settings now, pretty much what mine already was apart from Sharpness was on default and smart LED was high with Warm 1 setting.

At the moment the whites look yellow on warm 2 but I'll give it a few days like you say. What is the advantage of Smart LED been on low dosnt none HDR content benefit from it been set to high? :)
 

chaosaeon

Member
^^^ It's so weird to me that I've been trying to get some great settings for awhile, yet they could look terrible on everyone else's sets. Are we all just sharing our settings aimlessly ? I remember when I first got my TV I used the OP post for the "best" settings here at the time, and it made it look like games I was playing took place on Mars because the ground was straight up red. It feels a little lame for us all to hope to find some magic setting to post for each other only to know it likely isn't going to work for them. I guess it's just fun to figure out what's best for our own sets and then share it in case anyone else's set is similar to ours.
 
Thanks for posting.

Trying your settings now, pretty much what mine already was apart from Sharpness was on default and smart LED was high with Warm 1 setting.

At the moment the whites look yellow on warm 2 but I'll give it a few days like you say. What is the advantage of Smart LED been on low dosnt none HDR content benefit from it been set to high? :)

It crushes blacks and detail for SDR material.
 

Melubas

Member
Ok, so regarding cleaning the KS8000 and similar tv:s it is my understanding that it has a moth eye filter? After some googling I've found a couple of sources that say that moth eye filter screens can only be cleaned properly with a special cloth and an alcohol-based solution:

http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/..._46PFL9706_88443&refnr=0088443&scy=GB&slg=ENG

https://www.amazon.co.uk/product-reviews/B005613ZJQ (a couple of the reviews mention that you need a special green cleaning solution and not the advertised product).

I've also seen several posts that say you should only use a damp cloth. Seeing as a lot of people seem to be having trouble properly cleaning this tv I thought it might hold some truth. I'm way too neurotic to try it though, unless someone confirms it works. Smudges are notoriously hard to clean off on this in my experience, so maybe this holds some truth.
 
I don’t know how well known this is, but Movie mode displays a dimmer image than if you use Game mode. I was one of the lazy people who thought “sure the latancy is low enough on movie mode I won’t need to change settings for HDR”

If you set movie mode and game mode with identical settings and go back and forth, game mode is considerably brighter than movie mode and works much better for HDR.

(The same holds true if you have identical settings on Standard, I haven’t tried neutral or dynamic to know for sure but I imagine it follows suit)

This may be common knowledge but I’ve never seen it discussed.

I can also confirm eco mode and auto dimming is off for all my settings.
 

Hostile_18

Banned
So does everyone have to change settings on their tv when ever they put on a DVD/Blu Ray/Video App on their PS4/XB1 or do people simply not use it and use a dedicated player instead? (Therefore different settings on a different HDMI channel).
 

philm87

Member
So does everyone have to change settings on their tv when ever they put on a DVD/Blu Ray/Video App on their PS4/XB1 or do people simply not use it and use a dedicated player instead? (Therefore different settings on a different HDMI channel).

Just turn Game mode off and it changes the settings.
 

carsar

Member
If you set movie mode and game mode with identical settings and go back and forth, game mode is considerably brighter than movie mode and works much better for HDR.
If I change movie mode to game mode -I don't see brightness improvements, However If I change game mode to movie mode -I see more dim picture. After few seconds Movie mode's picture becomes brighter. I guess It is just different Local dimming algorithm, however peak brightness is near the same
 
If I change movie mode to game mode -I don't see brightness improvements, However If I change game mode to movie mode -I see more dim picture. After few seconds Movie mode's picture becomes brighter. I guess It is just different Local dimming algorithm, however peak brightness is near the same

Strange, when I have it on movie and then change to game it gradually gets brighter. Then when I go back to movie it gets dim again but the brightness level doesn’t increase until I go back to game or standard for example. I’ll try and get a video later.
 

Hostile_18

Banned
Why do nearly all the defaults set the colour mode to native? The red seems so intense!

I think im going to stick with having a picture more vibrant than accurate on warm 1 as it just looks better to my eye and gives the image more pop (no where near the vivid present though).

I understand why it's not for everyone though.
 

OrionFalls

Member
Why do nearly all the defaults set the colour mode to native? The red seems so intense!
I only use 'Native' when I'm watching an animated film. Moana, for example, looks great set to 'Auto' but it's on a whole other level when set to 'Native' - and this is using Warm2. I made the switch to it earlier when we were discussing it, and I've grown accustomed to it.
 

Hostile_18

Banned
I only use 'Native' when I'm watching an animated film. Moana, for example, looks great set to 'Auto' but it's on a whole other level when set to 'Native' - and this is using Warm2. I made the switch to it earlier when we were discussing it, and I've grown accustomed to it.

Can't the same argument be made that using Native is not an accurate image though just like watching it on normal content? Samsung must be pretty confident in it to leave it as the default in most cases. I'm debating having it on or off for all as don't want to be messing about with settings all the time :).

I could get use to warm 2 but even though it's not as accurate I do prefer warm 1.
 

OrionFalls

Member
If you’ve made all the correct changes to the basic settings (backlight, brightness, etc) then setting Colour Space to ‘Auto’ when watching non-animated content will result in a fantastic picture. Set it to ‘Native’ when watching either animated or HDR content for the same result. The only way to get a 100% perfect picture - beyond tweaking the basic settings - is to get a pro in to properly calibrate your set.
 

carsar

Member
Strange, when I have it on movie and then change to game it gradually gets brighter. Then when I go back to movie it gets dim again but the brightness level doesn’t increase until I go back to game or standard for example. I’ll try and get a video later.
Maybe you are right. I've just noticed the odd thing: If I change movie mode to game mode or change gamma settings in game mode - picture loses much details in highlights after few second.
Hard to say - highlights become brightter or just washed out. However it definitely lose details.
Game mode behaves like standard mode, and movie mode behaves like HDR+ mode.
You can see that on the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHtv9Z07FZI

We definitely need KS owner with same thing...
pictureFour1-265x225.png

or beg rtings to test KS800 brightness in different modes, like they do with 2017 models.
 
highlights become brightter or just washed out. However it definitely lose details.

That would seem to indicate that Contrast is set too high for that mode.

As an aside, a lot of the settings online (RTINGS) say to push contrast to 100 for all modes but personally I don't agree with that. Despite what the test slides show on tools like the Disney WoW disc, on at least some of the KS8000s like mine contrast at 100 in standard (non-HDR) modes is too high and obscures detail in bright parts of the image. We know for a fact that there were at least two different companies supplying panels for the KS8000 so maybe with one type of panel 100 is the correct whereas with mine it's more in the 90 range.
 
That would seem to indicate that Contrast is set too high for that mode.

As an aside, a lot of the settings online (RTINGS) say to push contrast to 100 for all modes but personally I don't agree with that. Despite what the test slides show on tools like the Disney WoW disc, on at least some of the KS8000s like mine contrast at 100 in standard (non-HDR) modes is too high and obscures detail in bright parts of the image. We know for a fact that there were at least two different companies supplying panels for the KS8000 so maybe with one type of panel 100 is the correct whereas with mine it's more in the 90 range.


I'm my room, after calibration the TV ended up with contrast 91, but in the living room we ended up with contrast at 95. We made some changes to the CMS, but both sets requried different CMS settings.

We used a meter for calibration, we don't use the basic disc like spears or Disney's WOW.

I think the small difference was due to the viewing environment. Detail is good in be the brightest scenes, and show good detail in darker scenes as well.

Dont understand how people can use warm2, unless when it is professionally calibrated it doesn't look like a piss filter
How do you feel when you go to the movie theater? The theater will look similar to warm2.
 
I'm my room, after calibration the TV ended up with contrast 91, but in the living room we ended up with contrast at 95. We made some changes to the CMS, but both sets requried different CMS settings.

We used a meter for calibration, we don't use the basic disc like spears or Disney's WOW.

I think the small difference was due to the viewing environment. Detail is good in be the brightest scenes, and show good detail in darker scenes as well.


How do you feel when you go to the movie theater? The theater will look similar to warm2.

I actually tried it again and I think it looks good. Way back in the spring I initially went from Standard to warm1 and at the time warm2 seemed like too much. Getting used to warm1, I think warm2 will be what I use onwards.
 
I actually tried it again and I think it looks good. Way back in the spring I initially went from Standard to warm1 and at the time warm2 seemed like too much. Getting used to warm1, I think warm2 will be what I use onwards.


Since we watch our tv's more than we go to the theater, our eyes got used to the tv colors.

So it's pretty normal for someone to not like the look of warm2.

The only thing that matters is how it looks to you.
 
I hope this Rudy1 person from Florida comes thru with his game mode/hdr update. I'm starting to think he's been pulling our chain this entire time.
 

Hostile_18

Banned
I hope this Rudy1 person from Florida comes thru with his game mode/hdr update. I'm starting to think he's been pulling our chain this entire time.

My tv automatically changes the backlight from 13 to 18 for HDR and back again when it's not on. I think dynamic contrast also gets put to high (i read that it works against HDR so not sure why Samsung would opt for this).

Anyways I've finally settled on standard picture settings with the only thing been changed is the colour setting to "warm 1". Certainly a bright picture but I love it!

Last question but what does everyone use as bias lighting? Are the LED strips worth it or do they just look tacky/do nothing of benefit?
 

OrionFalls

Member
I have a strip of LED lights down either side. They don’t improve the picture per se, but they do reduce strain on the eyes when watching TV in a pitch dark room. I really want to try one of those Philips ambilight TVs.
 

Hostile_18

Banned
I have a strip of LED lights down either side. They don’t improve the picture per se, but they do reduce strain on the eyes when watching TV in a pitch dark room. I really want to try one of those Philips ambilight TVs.

I've seen some on Amazon that are reasonably priced with good reviews. I might give it a go.
 
I hope this Rudy1 person from Florida comes thru with his game mode/hdr update. I'm starting to think he's been pulling our chain this entire time.

That guy has some sort of a cult following, he's an internet warrior. God forbid you say something negative or question his so called "insider information", avsforum will cut your head french revolution style. I'm starting to believe he's a bullshitter, he didn't even understand the problem with game mode HDR until a couple of days ago.

CONTRAST

Please do not go higher than 85 for SDR material. Do the following test if you have an Xbox One, it has a great calibration tool at video settings. At the part with the bright white sun, go back and forth from 85 to 95. You will notice how at 95 whites become pinkish. You don't want that...
 

base

Banned
That guy has some sort of a cult following, he's an internet warrior. God forbid you say something negative or question his so called "insider information", avsforum will cut your head french revolution style. I'm starting to believe he's a bullshitter, he didn't even understand the problem with game mode HDR until a couple of days ago.

CONTRAST

Please do not go higher than 85 for SDR material. Do the following test if you have an Xbox One, it has a great calibration tool at video settings. At the part with the bright white sun, go back and forth from 85 to 95. You will notice how at 95 whites become pinkish. You don't want that...
It's 7th December and still no sign of the new firmware. I also think this Rudy guy is making some big joke of all the people at avsforums.
 
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