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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

1162 firmware is out over the air today, can anyone confirm or deny is game mode HDR settings are now saving properly?

Probably not though :****(

What do you mean?

HDR is always a different settings profile, but once you set it while HDR is ON, it retains all those settings. You can pretty much spec and fine tune to HDR, and then match on SDR with a little more or less of whatever. ex: I like contrast at 100 on HDR to avoid wash out and dim picture, 40 on color to avoid color saturation or blow out, but on SDR 75 and 50-55 is fine.

Game Mode does the same thing for me. Or do you mean something else? Is there something not being saved that I'm not noticing?
 
What do you mean?

HDR is always a different settings profile, but once you set it while HDR is ON, it retains all those settings. You can pretty much spec and fine tune to HDR, and then match on SDR with a little more or less of whatever. ex: I like contrast at 100 on HDR to avoid wash out and dim picture, 40 on color to avoid color saturation or blow out, but on SDR 75 and 50-55 is fine.

Game Mode does the same thing for me. Or do you mean something else? Is there something not being saved that I'm not noticing?

No it doesn't unfortunately. If you turn game mode on, the backlight does not change automatically between HDR and non HDR content. Test it for yourself. Turn on game mode and boot a game with HDR, then quit and go back to the PS4 menu. You'll see the backlight never changes.
 
What do you mean?

HDR is always a different settings profile, but once you set it while HDR is ON, it retains all those settings. You can pretty much spec and fine tune to HDR, and then match on SDR with a little more or less of whatever. ex: I like contrast at 100 on HDR to avoid wash out and dim picture, 40 on color to avoid color saturation or blow out, but on SDR 75 and 50-55 is fine.

Game Mode does the same thing for me. Or do you mean something else? Is there something not being saved that I'm not noticing?

HDR settings do not save under game mode. Meaning, when an HDR enable game is displayed you need to manually set backlight to 20 and any other options you want set specifically for HDR.

Under movie mode, you can have separate settings for HDR and SDR content and they change automatically to whatever you set previously when HDR content is playing.

Not sure if I explained that in the bets way.... :p
 
As for the sound, there is an option in audio where you can set the audio delay... maybe this could help?

Didn't seem to help at all. I think that's more for synch.

Google has failed me too. All the results are about problems with audio being out of synch. Mine's not out of synch, it just takes a second to kick in. Don't know how to better word it though.

And low and behold, the sound issue appears to be gone from netflix and youtube TV apps after this morning's update. It's still there when using youtube from my PC though, though it sounds like the delay may be less. Well whatever.
 
No it doesn't unfortunately. If you turn game mode on, the backlight does not change automatically between HDR and non HDR content. Test it for yourself. Turn on game mode and boot a game with HDR, then quit and go back to the PS4 menu. You'll see the backlight never changes.

HDR settings do not save under game mode. Meaning, when an HDR enable game is displayed you need to manually set backlight to 20 and any other options you want set specifically for HDR.

Under movie mode, you can have separate settings for HDR and SDR content and they change automatically to whatever you set previously when HDR content is playing.

Not sure if I explained that in the bets way.... :p

hmm, that's unfortunate. I guess I haven't noticed because I've intentionally kept my backlight at 20 across the board for awhile now. I'll check it out later to see what you guys mean.
 
Just curious if anyone can chime in. Do i HAVE to use game mode to get low input lag? Samsungs TVs in the past have trashed picture quality in the name of input lag in game mode. My Sony X800D is really nice because graphics mode is just as low as game mode with the same input lag but my issue is clouding when watching movies and its distracting.

So do I need to use game mode on this or does PC mode at 4:4:4 really get it down as well? I until the 30th to do holiday returns at best buy (who hoo elite!)
 
Just curious if anyone can chime in. Do i HAVE to use game mode to get low input lag? Samsungs TVs in the past have trashed picture quality in the name of input lag in game mode. My Sony X800D is really nice because graphics mode is just as low as game mode with the same input lag but my issue is clouding when watching movies and its distracting.

So do I need to use game mode on this or does PC mode at 4:4:4 really get it down as well? I until the 30th to do holiday returns at best buy (who hoo elite!)

Yes you do, but the picture quality remains very good even with it on.

Some don't use game mode because they can deal with the input lag.
 
Just curious if anyone can chime in. Do i HAVE to use game mode to get low input lag? Samsungs TVs in the past have trashed picture quality in the name of input lag in game mode. My Sony X800D is really nice because graphics mode is just as low as game mode with the same input lag but my issue is clouding when watching movies and its distracting.

So do I need to use game mode on this or does PC mode at 4:4:4 really get it down as well? I until the 30th to do holiday returns at best buy (who hoo elite!)

PC mode is something like 40ms lag while gamemode is about 21 in SDr and 36 in HDR. Game mode doesn't seem to noticeably mess with the picture quality like it does on older TVs so it's fine to use. I would use something other than PC mode even with a PC. You need to rename the input to something other than "PC" to do that and change its mode.
 
And low and behold, the sound issue appears to be gone from netflix and youtube TV apps after this morning's update. It's still there when using youtube from my PC though, though it sounds like the delay may be less. Well whatever.

Scratch that. If netflix is paused for more than 30 seconds or so, it takes a half second for audio to start after the video resumes.
 
Just curious if anyone can chime in. Do i HAVE to use game mode to get low input lag? Samsungs TVs in the past have trashed picture quality in the name of input lag in game mode. My Sony X800D is really nice because graphics mode is just as low as game mode with the same input lag but my issue is clouding when watching movies and its distracting.

So do I need to use game mode on this or does PC mode at 4:4:4 really get it down as well? I until the 30th to do holiday returns at best buy (who hoo elite!)

I only have a PS4 Pro and K8500 UHD player, but I play 90% of games in Movie Mode (especially for HDR) instead of Game Mode, and might switch to Game for something like Street Fighter V, but the IQ difference really isn't pronounced imo. You definitely do lose something, but it's kinda just picking your priorities and your poison.

It's hard to say you'd be happier with this TV since I don't know that one is... mine has been a frustrating affair that almost made me start thinking about the return window too (a hassle I don't want), but I have it where I want it now and know how I need my Pro/Player/TV set all in conjunction. No uncertainty anymore about whether I'm seeing what I should be, how I should be.
 
I hadn't thought about gaming in movie mode. I need to try it out. The picture looks great to me in game mode also. I just wish there was a HDR on message that pops up when in use.
 
I hadn't thought about gaming in movie mode. I need to try it out. The picture looks great to me in game mode also. I just wish there was a HDR on message that pops up when in use.

There is. If that message isn't popping up saying that HDR content is playing, it's not happening.

If you're on PS4 Pro, make sure your PS4 settings under "Sound and Screen" is set for HDR Automatic and that the TV's "UHD color" setting is turned on for all HDMI ports under "Expert Settings" in the picture settings area.

I also recommend setting the PS4 resolution to 2160p YUV420 and RGB to full, since auto sometimes isn't doing what you want it to. That also seems to benefit the IQ of non-Pro supported games that aren't even using HDR or any 4K upscaling.

Then, on games with HDR, some of them have their own in-game setting to turn HDR on or off, so double check that too. Even if it's on by default, it's easy to forget you might have turned it off at some point trying to test out your TV settings.
 
I'm colorblind and don't care about color accuracy. I care about is minimal input lag and being wowed by the picture. I have game mode on, set backlight to 10, set sharpness to 0, set high dynamic contrast to high, turned on the HDR color for every input, and turned color space to auto. I was stunned by how good last guardian looked with the pro compared to the base PS4. This TV might be my best purchase in a long time.

I guess what I'm asking is if my settings are giving me the lowest possible input lag and if I'm giving up anything that would impact me majorly as a visually disabled person. I changed the backlight to 20 when HDR activated in last guardian in game mode and noticed no major difference.
 
I haven't been using game mode for PS3 games, I've been using HDR+ instead but with no auto motion. The input lag isn't unplayable, but with auto motion on it's definitely bad. Also a big laugh on these firmware updates. It's "stability" all over again.
 
I've tried to reply several times and no response has gone trough. But thanks for replying, it seems like I should just stick with my set or find an alternative. If only movie viewing didn't bring out the uniformity issues on the screen. Rtings was pretty right about it
 
Just curious if anyone can chime in. Do i HAVE to use game mode to get low input lag? Samsungs TVs in the past have trashed picture quality in the name of input lag in game mode. My Sony X800D is really nice because graphics mode is just as low as game mode with the same input lag but my issue is clouding when watching movies and its distracting.

So do I need to use game mode on this or does PC mode at 4:4:4 really get it down as well? I until the 30th to do holiday returns at best buy (who hoo elite!)

Wait, since you have the TV, isn't this something you would be able to verify yourself by running game mode? Game mode by the way doesn't trash PQ with these TVs. You do lose access though to certain options like the motion plus settings. Also being outside game mode isn't as bad as other TVs to me. I find no issues using my laptop at 4:4:4 mode. I think 4:4:4 mode is something around 30 - 40ms of lag, which still works well for me (I got used to my w900a + game mode + impulse, which gives me similar amounts of input lag)
 
I'm colorblind and don't care about color accuracy. I care about is minimal input lag and being wowed by the picture. I have game mode on, set backlight to 10, set sharpness to 0, set high dynamic contrast to high, turned on the HDR color for every input, and turned color space to auto. I was stunned by how good last guardian looked with the pro compared to the base PS4. This TV might be my best purchase in a long time.

I guess what I'm asking is if my settings are giving me the lowest possible input lag and if I'm giving up anything that would impact me majorly as a visually disabled person. I changed the backlight to 20 when HDR activated in last guardian in game mode and noticed no major difference.

Did you try it in HDR on the base PS4 too?

Also, as someone who has owned this TV since July and has tried every single setting for days at a time finding my perfect picture, I recommend you turn dynamic contrast off completely, and bump up the backlight to 20 for HDR.

Dynamic contrast completely wrecks the brights and darks and all in-between, which is half the point of HDR in the first place.

Edit: For some further clarification, dynamic contrast seems to make the image pop, but this is because it seems to actually bumps the backlight up a bit more than what you have it set at. The result is the entire picture looks brighter. So those bright highlights look mighty impressive, but it lightens the dark areas too. With a backlight at 20 and no dynamic contrast, you'll get those same peak brights but with proper darks and grays.
 
Wait, since you have the TV, isn't this something you would be able to verify yourself by running game mode? Game mode by the way doesn't trash PQ with these TVs. You do lose access though to certain options like the motion plus settings. Also being outside game mode isn't as bad as other TVs to me. I find no issues using my laptop at 4:4:4 mode. I think 4:4:4 mode is something around 30 - 40ms of lag, which still works well for me (I got used to my w900a + game mode + impulse, which gives me similar amounts of input lag)

I don't have it. I have the Sony X800D. The clouding is just a bit obvious for me viewing films is all.
 
Did you try it in HDR on the base PS4 too?

Also, as someone who has owned this TV since July and has tried every single setting for days at a time finding my perfect picture, I recommend you turn dynamic contrast off completely, and bump up the backlight to 20 for HDR.

Dynamic contrast completely wrecks the brights and darks and all in-between, which is half the point of HDR in the first place.

Edit: For some further clarification, dynamic contrast seems to make the image pop, but this is because it seems to actually bumps the backlight up a bit more than what you have it set at. The result is the entire picture looks brighter. So those bright highlights look mighty impressive, but it lightens the dark areas too. With a backlight at 20 and no dynamic contrast, you'll get those same peak brights but with proper darks and grays.
Thanks, that change was easy enough and does look better. Is that the only thing that really should be adjusted for non-color related picture quality?
 
Just curious if anyone can chime in. Do i HAVE to use game mode to get low input lag? Samsungs TVs in the past have trashed picture quality in the name of input lag in game mode. My Sony X800D is really nice because graphics mode is just as low as game mode with the same input lag but my issue is clouding when watching movies and its distracting.

So do I need to use game mode on this or does PC mode at 4:4:4 really get it down as well? I until the 30th to do holiday returns at best buy (who hoo elite!)

PC mode is 37ms and saves HDR and SDR settings separately which is nice. But it has access to fewer picture settings than game mode
 
Feels like firmware 1162 improved my luck with the YouTube app, at least at the moment. Videos seem to be loading more quickly, and always at full 3840x2160@60 resolution if applicable.

Previously, for a few firmware updates, YouTube wouldn't always choose to buffer to the full resolution. Instead it would choose something like 1440p half the time. Doesn't seem to be the case anymore, knock on wood.

Hopefully the app doesn't keep signing out of my YouTube account like it had been, either. Still need to check that out.
 
I don't have it. I have the Sony X800D. The clouding is just a bit obvious for me viewing films is all.
Oh ok. Can't say I've noticed any clouding with mine (ks9000) but blooming can be a problem when using it's local dimming feature. It works very well to get inky blacks but anything else visible on a pitch black image will give significant blooming, which can kind of suck. Fortunately when gaming, I have only noticed this issue when dealing with loading screens, where you usually have a black background and a loading indicator on screen.
 
Needing a new TV and hearing so many good things about the KS8000 I got my mind set on this set. I want to stay at 1000 max but the problem is I want the 55 inch. I feel like it will go down but i'm not sure when . I could go with the 50 inch and I might be fine . Just sitting here debating to either find a new set or wait till the price drops .
 
Needing a new TV and hearing so many good things about the KS8000 I got my mind set on this set. I want to stay at 1000 max but the problem is I want the 55 inch. I feel like it will go down but i'm not sure when . I could go with the 50 inch and I might be fine . Just sitting here debating to either find a new set or wait till the price drops .

http://camelcamelcamel.com/Samsung-UN55KS8000-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/product/B01C5TFLSE?context=browse

The 55" was $1000 around the holidays, and the Super Bowl TV sales should be coming up soon, which I hear is the best time to buy a TV.
 
Well youtube now always signs me out after I leave it, quite annoying... oh well.

When you say "leave it" do you mean just switching directly to another app or input and coming back, or are you hitting the "back" button to exit? I switch between YT and my input list and I find YT just runs in the background constantly unless I exit it so it's usually right in the state where I left it. Much like a phone, if you are juggling different apps it probably pushes the oldest one out of memory after a while.
 
I decided to swap my old Sony for a 75" KS8005 which arrived yesterday. Holy cow what a beauty!
Tested a few different settings from this thread and the step up in picture quality is amazing. (My old one was a Sony 55" W805).

Hardly and clouding or banding to speak of. It does however have two defective subpixels on the left side, and one or two dead in the upper right corner. None of them are visible from my sitting position, so Im not sure if I should care about them...

Bought a PS Pro at the same but didn't really gave time to play yesterday. This weekend is going to be pretty nice though.
 
Well youtube now always signs me out after I leave it, quite annoying... oh well.

...and now mine is actually staying signed in, at least so far.

Bizarre.

When you say "leave it" do you mean just switching directly to another app or input and coming back, or are you hitting the "back" button to exit? I switch between YT and my input list and I find YT just runs in the background constantly unless I exit it so it's usually right in the state where I left it. Much like a phone, if you are juggling different apps it probably pushes the oldest one out of memory after a while.

For me, it's just switching to another app and not exiting completely. Eventually, it would sign out without my intervention.

The thing is, there are other apps that I have used barely at all since I got the TV and they're still signed in just fine.
 
There so little HDR content on Youtube. I've only found one channel that has some videos 'The HDR Channel'. And this russian guy has a couple of HDR videos. But that's it. Seems strange, with all the HDR hype that nobody is producing content. Have you guys found anything?
 
Seems strange, with all the HDR hype that nobody is producing content.

There isn't much on Youtube other than what you've mentioned. Most people don't have HDR-capable screens, and most creators don't have HDR-capable cameras. It'll take a few years for the content to improve. Heck, there still isn't a whole lot of 4K content on YT for that matter.

Should sharpness be at 0 on my 1080p Samsung too?

It depends. Not a helpful answer but it really depends on the particular model. Best thing you can do is use a test image or DVD and see for yourself. Start at Zero and see if things look too fuzzy, then bump it up until things look sharp but there are no weird bright fringes or other artifacts around lines and edges. Even on the KS8000, there is no agreement on this. I think the sweet spot is between 10-20 myself.
 
There isn't much on Youtube other than what you've mentioned. Most people don't have HDR-capable screens, and most creators don't have HDR-capable cameras. It'll take a few years for the content to improve. Heck, there still isn't a whole lot of 4K content on YT for that matter.



It depends. Not a helpful answer but it really depends on the particular model. Best thing you can do is use a test image or DVD and see for yourself. Start at Zero and see if things look too fuzzy, then bump it up until things look sharp but there are no weird bright fringes or other artifacts around lines and edges. Even on the KS8000, there is no agreement on this. I think the sweet spot is between 10-20 myself.

Yeah a lot of the websites say to put the sharpness at zero but it just looked weird to me at zero so I kept it to 20 and that looks better to me. A lot of it is just personal taste
 
In regards to sharpness, for true supported HDR 4K content like say Uncharted 4, I found having the sharpness on even in a little disrupted the video quality, I don't say this lightly as I'm someone who has been looking at pixels for almost 20 years professionally. That said a little sharpness was needed to improve image quality on the WiiU (12 for me was the sweet spot).

Like other have said it's preference, but I defiantly noticed a hit in quality having sharpness on when viewing HDR true non-compressed 4K.
 
Went ahead and picked up a 55 inch KS 8000 and will price match if it goes on sale in a month . Only thing that gets me is seeing sony or LG 65 inches for same price. Don't think they are HDR or anything though.
 
Also, as someone who has owned this TV since July and has tried every single setting for days at a time finding my perfect picture, I recommend you turn dynamic contrast off completely, and bump up the backlight to 20 for HDR.

Dynamic contrast completely wrecks the brights and darks and all in-between, which is half the point of HDR in the first place.

Edit: For some further clarification, dynamic contrast seems to make the image pop, but this is because it seems to actually bumps the backlight up a bit more than what you have it set at. The result is the entire picture looks brighter. So those bright highlights look mighty impressive, but it lightens the dark areas too. With a backlight at 20 and no dynamic contrast, you'll get those same peak brights but with proper darks and grays.

Thanks for this post; I've read versions of this, but I think you summed it up most succinctly of all.

I'm happy with "Standard -> Game Mode" for my PS4 and XB1S with just about any content, but I was confused by how the television treats PC source. I was apparently only seeing "Standard" or "Dynamic" because I'm running my HomeTheaterPC at 4:4:4 Chroma. (Oh, and PC source "Sharpness" = "50" is actually the equivalent of "0" for other sources.)

If I read what you're saying correctly, when using PC source, I should just bump Backlight to "20" (aka maximum) and set the television to "Standard" and call it a day. "Dynamic" just jacks-up the Backlight and therefore throws everything off (making the totality of the content brighter than it should be).
I'm making sure to set HDMI Black Level to "Low" for newer PC games.
 
Thanks for this post; I've read versions of this, but I think you summed it up most succinctly of all.

I'm happy with "Standard -> Game Mode" for my PS4 and XB1S with just about any content, but I was confused by how the television treats PC source. I was apparently only seeing "Standard" or "Dynamic" because I'm running my HomeTheaterPC at 4:4:4 Chroma. (Oh, and PC source "Sharpness" = "50" is actually the equivalent of "0" for other sources.)

If I read what you're saying correctly, when using PC source, I should just bump Backlight to "20" (aka maximum) and set the television to "Standard" and call it a day. "Dynamic" just jacks-up the Backlight and therefore throws everything off (making the totality of the content brighter than it should be).
I'm making sure to set HDMI Black Level to "Low" for newer PC games.

I would just set dynamic off and bump the backlight to whatever looks comfortable to you. If you want you don't have to use PC mode at all, you can simply name the input something other than "PC" and use for example Game mode.
 
I wish Samsung detailed what the updates did. Just got 1162 on KS9000 and have no idea what it does.

Also I have given up and now know that Samsung will never fix the game mode HDR glitch
 
I was confused by how the television treats PC source. I was apparently only seeing "Standard" or "Dynamic" because I'm running my HomeTheaterPC at 4:4:4 Chroma.

I can use 4:4:4 chroma out of 'PC mode' and yet have more options than just "Standard" and "Dynamic" modes. Not sure why PC mode is limited to those two options, but I don't think it's because of 4:4:4.
 
I can use 4:4:4 chroma out of 'PC mode' and yet have more options than just "Standard" and "Dynamic" modes. Not sure why PC mode is limited to those two options, but I don't think it's because of 4:4:4.

Yeah I don't understand why that mode exists in the first place as like you said it doesn't seem to do much more than limit the available options and have a weird sharpness control (who would want to deliberately blur the picture?).
 
I've been eyeing this TV for a while now and been waiting for Super Bowl sales to pull the trigger. Video & Audio Center (via Amazon Fulfillment) has the 65" for $1497 with free delivery. Is this probably going to be the lowest price, or should I wait longer? Also, any reason to pass on this model and go with another one? I know that a lot of people love OLED, but the LG B6 65" is twice as expensive as the KS8000.
 
I finally bit the bullet and bought this tv. :X So... do I just use the settings from Rtings.com and I'll be good? I don't know shit about any of this.
 
I finally bit the bullet and bought this tv. :X So... do I just use the settings from Rtings.com and I'll be good? I don't know shit about any of this.

Surprised you didn't wait for bigger sales before Superbowl or before launch of the newer models supposedly in/around March.

I might cave and buy the KS8000 here in Canada but even I'm tempted to wait more. It's still pricey as hell here...
 
Surprised you didn't wait for bigger sales before Superbowl or before launch of the newer models supposedly in/around March.

I might cave and buy the KS8000 here in Canada but even I'm tempted to wait more. It's still pricey as hell here...
Amazon had it for $1497, which is an amazing price considering last year it was well over $2000.
 
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