Probably a one-off promo item. 2005, before we was #esports
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Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
Probably a one-off promo item. 2005, before we was #esports
sixteen-bit
Member
Should be easy enough to build. Aren't those just Pop'n Music buttons?
Thanks for the input. Yeah, it does look nice this way. Plus, I'm really worried about spraying it, if I mess up then there's no fixing it and buying a new case is too expensive.
bumpkin
Member
They definitely do rock! I only recently began tinkering with modding my TE Fightstick, and FA has been the sole recipient of my part orders. I too highly recommend them!
The Phantomnaut
Neo Member
Oh god someone selling the GDLK Japanese Tekken 5 HRAP2 on Ebay. I want it so baaaaad but I gotta save some cash!!! 
Finally I found the Korean arcade stick Knee uses for Tekken. http://magiclab.co.kr/magicmall/product_list.php/
Finally I found the Korean arcade stick Knee uses for Tekken. http://magiclab.co.kr/magicmall/product_list.php/
hibachifinal
Member
Oh god someone selling the GDLK Japanese Tekken 5 HRAP2 on Ebay. I want it so baaaaad but I gotta save some cash!!!
yeah the thing is slick, the layout is nice too, seems like noir style, only thing that kills it for me is that the buttons are HORI stock... soldered directly to a PCB
sixteen-bit
Member
That T5 stick shows up all the time on eBay. Maybe not at that price, but it's not uncommon to see.
bumpkin
Member
I still have one of the US "Ultimate Collectors Editions" sitting somewhere in my basement that I never opened. Found it for relatively cheap in a store and snagged it on impulse, but never actually cracked it open. Got my TE Fightstick around the same time and ended up using that.
sixteen-bit
Member
The Sanwa JLJ-PL2-8V used in Virtual On cabinets are over a hundred dollars each for a single lever alone. A cheaper alternative would be to cannibalize the Saturn or Dreamcast twinsticks, but those parts are lower quality than the aforementioned Sanwas.
YOWZA.
But thanks for the part number - searching that I found this cheap thing at Paradise Arcade. With the caveat that you get what you pay for, I wonder whether it would make a fun Virtual On control board for a Vewlix clone.
How much do said twinsticks go for these days? I like to do things the hard way, so I might still get some Sanwas, but considering options is always a nice thing...
sixteen-bit
Member
If you're lucky the Saturn ones can be acquired for under $30 + whatever shipping at auction on eBay. Careful though, as usually they have a lot of wear and are really loose. The DC ones will be $120+. I feel the parts in the DC one are marginally better but I don't have anything to back it up. It could just be a case of wear and tear that I'm used to with the Saturn ones.
The T5 stick is not an HRAP. The difference is in the parts, internals, and modability.Oh god someone selling the GDLK Japanese Tekken 5 HRAP2 on Ebay. I want it so baaaaad but I gotta save some cash!!!
sixteen-bit
Member
That Japanese T5 stick actually does carry the HRAP moniker.
Like most game-branded Japanese HRAPs, the stick is a Sanwa JLF but the buttons are Hori clones and soldered directly to the PCB.
It's the American T5 stick that isn't an HRAP.
sixteen-bit
Member
That people will buy anything.
Paradise Arcade Shop sells a similar stick for $20: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/imported-joysticks/299-import-flight-stick-0855742002993.html
I can't vouch for its quality as I've never used it myself, but I've been looking at making a Virtual On stick with two of these guys.
Yeah, been looking at one of the VO sites and someone used those to make a stick and seemed to be pleased with it. At that cost building a 2 player control module (Force is lame but still fun in local multi) is actually cheaper than building out a normal module.
Plus it should adapt well to Gundam EXVS, with a little creative remapping.
Plus it should adapt well to Gundam EXVS, with a little creative remapping.
The Phantomnaut
Neo Member
Old type Real Arcade Pro models have relative modding procedures. The older versions such as the RAP1 are very similar to the JP T5 stick in terms of parts and technology. I would like to add that while the American T5 stick is not truly a Real Arcade Pro, it still represents the models to a certain degree IMO.
Well, perhaps the JP T5 is different, but the T5 I'm familiar with uses an underpanel PCB directly attached to the buttons instead of quick disconnects. Getting sanwa parts into one takes a lot of work, while in the HRAP1 (which I own) they all swap out easily.
sixteen-bit
Member
I detail the Japanese T5 in this post.
Game-branded Japanese HRAPs (Deathsmiles, Capcom Fighting Evolution, Blazblue CT, vanilla Street Fighter IV, and so-on) almost always have Sanwa JLF sticks with the 5-pin connector and Hori buttons soldered directly to the PCB. This T5 one is no different.
Regular HRAPs without any game branding have Sanwa JLFs and Hori buttons, but these buttons use quick disconnects unlike the game-branded counterparts.
The American T5 stick on the other hand does not carry the HRAP moniker and has full Hori parts, including the lever.
diffusionx
Gold Member
has anyone used the HRAP VX SA KAI for 360 on PC? I assume it works fine but would just like confirmation.
StarCreator
Member
Not always though, especially later on. The Arcana Heart 2 stick uses quick disconnects on the buttons, for one.
Yeah, mine works just fine in Windows 7.
hibachifinal
Member
none of the branded 360 HRAP EX's had soldered buttons, probably because of how the EX pcb's were designed. but yeah, the HRAP EX models (DS, MushiFuta, Tekken6) had quick disconnects for buttons.
as for PS2 HRAPs, Capcom Fighting Jam HRAP was the only branded one that didn't have soldered buttons, it's also the only branded HRAP for ps2 that had turbo switches. For PS3, BlazBlue and SFIV hrap had soldered buttons lol.
I owned the Arcana Heart 2 stick previously, but never opened it up. But it did seem it had soldered pcb due the hori buttons being stable and not spinny like other non SA/SE HRAP's.
All this hrap talk makes me wanna collect them all haha.
StarCreator
Member
I said above, Arcana Heart 2 used quick disconnects, but research is telling me otherwise. Going to have to reconfirm with the friend who owns one.
sixteen-bit
Member
Thanks for the corrections. My memory is failing me these days.
MarkMan
loves Arcade Sticks
Kind of arcade stick related...
Haha, the boys in Seattle crack me up. They put up preorders for the "Whatchu Know About This, MarkMan!?" shirt on their site. Don't know about it? Look it up on YouTube and check out these pictures below:
Thought I'd spread the word out for him. All proceeds of these sales go back to the FGC in Seattle. I get none of it, cuz I don't know about this!
PREORDER HERE: http://seattlefootclan.bigcartel.com/product/whatchu-know-about-this-markman
Haha, the boys in Seattle crack me up. They put up preorders for the "Whatchu Know About This, MarkMan!?" shirt on their site. Don't know about it? Look it up on YouTube and check out these pictures below:
Thought I'd spread the word out for him. All proceeds of these sales go back to the FGC in Seattle. I get none of it, cuz I don't know about this!
PREORDER HERE: http://seattlefootclan.bigcartel.com/product/whatchu-know-about-this-markman
MarkMan
loves Arcade Sticks
Don't like the SF X Sanrio stick being Pink and Black. It doesn't look right to me so I switched the shells and covers of the stick with the Red SFXT stick. Looks much better to me.
This is hot.
devastatorprime
Member
Had to get a stick representing one of my top 5 games of all time. Its a claro walnut case made by magocyber from the shoryuken forums.
and the guts.
and the guts.
hibachifinal
Member
Did a simple parts swap on my HRAP2 with my favorite parts. (LS-32 and PS-14-GNs)
It looks stock, but it's not!
It looks stock, but it's not!
Eh, I do the same. I sometimes over do it since there were times where the button would start becoming loose and being able to spin.
hibachifinal
Member
On these seimitsu locking nuts, which are slimmer and harder to actually get a good grip on. Initially I just twisted the nuts in place but then you lose grip at some point. So by then I simple held the nut in place, and screwed the button shell/body instead, holding it at the microswitch (Seimitsu switches are bigger than sanwa's, so its pretty sturdy). it should tighten real firm, and so far, I haven't had any screw-in buttons let loose mid-play, even on metal panels.
It might get tricky if you wanted your QCD points well arranged or something, but that's how I do it.
But if you're using Sanwa's with those big orange nuts, im sure you can just grip and screw it in it like normal. problem with those is that they are huge, I could never fit them in most retail sticks.
I always prefer using screw-in buttons because of how much more 'reusable' they are, I don't like how Snap-in's wear out and eventually become too loose to install. Or they start spinning in place. Worse, the tabs break off, i've had that happen a couple of times. Only problem is, there are more color choices for Snap-ins (Sanwa especially).
OK, so I'm not being an animal by holding the micro-switch, good to know. I prefer snap-ins for ease of installation, but you're right, they aren't very reusable. I pulled more than a few out with broken tabs. Kinda sucks, but it just makes me commit to color scheme/layout 10,000% before buying parts.
TheFightingFish
Member
Quick question. What's the best gauge / type wire to use for custom wiring? My first stick I used solid core and it's all worked out fine, but I always get nervous about wire movement and wonder if stranded would be better.
hikarutilmitt
Member
If you're soldering, use solid. If you're crimping or connecting to a screw post, use stranded as solid will not usually sandwich well enough to hold right.
I tend to use stranded all the time because it's thinner and moves around well, but I'm also used to soldering it and will use solid if I have a good path to make it stick to since it tends to not move.
J
Jotamide
Unconfirmed Member
Wow, gorgeous piece of work!
ArcadeStickGAF, I need your help: I went to get my first artwork printed the other day and the girl at the printing store didn't know what material the original art was. She also printed the template and said that it wasn't gonna look the same, she was right:
She printed it on some glossy paper that wasn't even close in quality to the stock art. She referred me to some other place where they can print this vinyl decal (I think that's what she said) but that it was gonna be expensive (around $20 the print). On SRK I've read that people have done this for less than $10. Am I not asking for the right thing? Is my template goofed? Or is it actually that expensive to print a decent custom stick art? :S
J
Jotamide
Unconfirmed Member
Did a simple parts swap on my HRAP2 with my favorite parts. (LS-32 and PS-14-GNs)
It looks stock, but it's not!
Gorgeous.
I've got it in my head recently that I need a Hori Real Arcade PRO 1 / 2....
3 won't work because I want something I can use on my 360 (I have the Xtokki convertor) Saturn (I will acquire a ps1/ps2 to saturn convertor) and on My PS2 & PS3 (ps2 obviously on problem, ps3 i have a ps2 - ps3 convertor)
I'm not really down to do any modding with pcbs or the like as I have no soldering experience but given that I already have most of the controller convertors i need this stick seems like the best choice.
So I just got a couple of questions...
These convertors (primarily the Xtokki) aren't known to have lag are they?
Whats a fair price to be paying for a used, though looked after HRAP 1 or 2?
How easy are they to swap sticks and buttons on?
Compared to say a HRAP VX-SA where all the buttons are quick release and you can just unplug the stick. I'm hoping there is no soldering required basically?
I just love the design of these sticks - I wanna keep it stock in appearance and pop in a LS-32-01 and most likely just leave the sanwa buttons(they are sanwa OBSF-30's aren't they?) for some pure shmup heaven.