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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

ss_lemonade

ss_lemonade

Member
x Dredgen Yor x said:
This is due to smart LED, it bothers me, especially on destiny item drops at the end of a strike, so I turn Smart LED off
Click to expand...

When I have Smart LED disabled, the whole screen's brightness of my ks9000 sometimes strobes from gray to black to gray again when dealing with black backgrounds. Looked pretty bad and distracting to me so I just leave Smart LED enabled.
 
P

philm87

Member
AwShucks said:
Man, I feel ridiculous. After a week I still feel like my four year old Vizio looks better. Mostly with cable TV though, gaming wise I don't feel like I'm looking at a worse picture necessarily. Though darks might be too dark. With cable TV I feel like it's both too dark and too bright at times. like I'm missing clarity in blacks while whites are too white. And while most scenes look fine, often I feel like people look washed out and pale.

And yet everyone loves the tv, so I must be insane.
Click to expand...

If you find the darks too dark, turn the brightness up, if the whites are too bright, turn the contrast down. Make see sure you have dynamic contrast off and don't turn the backlight up too much.
 
B

Belker

Member
Was browsing the KS8000 Q&A on rtings.com and saw this:

Just purchased the 49" KS8000. Does it matter where I connect the HDMI cord onto the One Connect box?
If you use a receiver with support for ARC, then you should plug the receiver into HDMI 4. Otherwise the ports are the same, so it doesn't matter.

I think I've seen ARC stuff mentioned here, so hope this helps someone.
 
Y

Yung Dolphin

Banned
Im getting static screens on my ks8000 when fucking with netflix on my pc through hdmi. I have to unplug the hdmi cord and back in to fix. Any tips? Anyone share my experience? 1080p 60hz, shitty pc.
 
Pantz

Pantz

Member
Yung Dolphin said:
Im getting static screens on my ks8000 when fucking with netflix on my pc through hdmi. I have to unplug the hdmi cord and back in to fix. Any tips? Anyone share my experience? 1080p 60hz, shitty pc.
Click to expand...

Dunno if this will help you, but if I let my audio cable touch hdmi cable attached to PC it causes interference. Try to keep other wires from touching your hdmi cable. This could be just a problem with my stuff though.
 
A

Aske

Member
Parmadillo Marshmallow said:
I have to say, the KS8000 has the absolute worst software I've ever experienced in a Smart TV. It's so bad that I stopped using it entirely. Luckily for me I primarily use the TV for gaming so it's not a huge deal, but don't get this TV if you plan on using the apps. Even the "Home" bar at the bottom of the screen frequently lags or freezes entirely, requiring a power down and power up to work again. The apps themselves do the same thing, constantly freezing, lagging, unable to log in, or just becoming unusable in a variety of ways.

Edit: I'm hardwired via ethernet to my router with 100mb connectivity.
Click to expand...

That absolutely sucks, and no one should have to deal with it, but I can say that it's not a universal thing. My apps/Smart Hub have had no issues but one - after a certain update I kept having to manually sign in to Netflix. Another update dropped, and it was fixed.

I've only used Netflix extensively, but I used the Crave app quite a bit, and YouTube just occasionally. No problems. No freezing, and never ever any lag; which really surprises me since it's such a common complaint. And I've used plenty of other TVs and boxes with annoying, laggy UIs.

Tizen is clearly garbage, but it seems like luck of the draw in terms of how it treats you.
 
R

reKon

Banned
so I've finally got my KS8000 and set it up. Trying to unbox this TV by yourself is definitely a challenge (65 inch).

Anyways, it's quite a nice TV, but first thing I checked for was back panel issues. Left side was fine. Right side, nope...

I mean it's not bad, but it's definitely not glued in like the other side. I can press down it that corner and it moves in while the left doesn't.

I got mine through Costco. Should I just return this one and hope for a return result on the next one? Did some if you just ignore the back panel and it didn't get worse?

I hate dealing with returns, but I don't want to have issues down the road and I paid good money for this TV...
 
L

laxu

Member
Parmadillo Marshmallow said:
I have to say, the KS8000 has the absolute worst software I've ever experienced in a Smart TV. It's so bad that I stopped using it entirely. Luckily for me I primarily use the TV for gaming so it's not a huge deal, but don't get this TV if you plan on using the apps. Even the "Home" bar at the bottom of the screen frequently lags or freezes entirely, requiring a power down and power up to work again. The apps themselves do the same thing, constantly freezing, lagging, unable to log in, or just becoming unusable in a variety of ways.

Edit: I'm hardwired via ethernet to my router with 100mb connectivity.
Click to expand...

I've had some issues with HBO Nordic and Netflix not loading as well as some lag on the home bar but overall I haven't found it THAT bad. That said, it should be perfectly smooth, Samsung has probably put in a somewhat underpowered ARM CPU or Tizen is just so badly programmed.
 
P

philm87

Member
Imp the Dimp said:
Is it recommended to use RTING's white balance and color space settings even if I'm not running warm2?
Click to expand...

The white balance and colours space settings will vary panel to panel, need a calibration tool/meter to set it correctly. The 2-point white balance you can maybe do by eye-sight if you have a calibration picture. Need to get the white as white as possible whilst leaving other colours and thongs such as skin tone looking natural.

On this note, can anybody recommend a good value calibration meter to help set the white balance and colours space settings?
 
A

AndersK

Member
Imp the Dimp said:
I'm using standard. Both warm settings seem too red for my liking, sadly. Industry standard or not.
Click to expand...

It really depends on your time spent viewing them. I was a cold1 stan for the longest time, until I changed to warm 1/2 and left it that way for a week. Can't go back now.
 
Y

Yoday

Member
After a few weeks of owning this TV it finally dawned on me that my One S and PS4 could probably fit under the TV due to the way the stand it setup. This is an incredible little perk for me, as it frees up tons of space in my entertainment stand, and it puts the consoles at a height that makes changing discs much easier. It looks like Scorpio will be around the same height as the One S, so I'm even good to go there too.
 
S

Syrus

Banned
If your findinf screen is too dark on HDR

Yu have two options

Crank Gamma up or Dynamic Contrast. I find DC much better

Alao people with failing apps , do a soft reset.

Hold power button on controller til SUHD pops up
 
Y

Yoday

Member
Syrus said:
If your findinf screen is too dark on HDR

Yu have two options

Crank Gamma up or Dynamic Contrast. I find DC much better

Alao people with failing apps , do a soft reset.

Hold power button on controller til SUHD pops up
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's a good tip. I was having some lag in the app menu for the first time yesterday, so I tried holding down the power button to see if it would restart the TV much like holding down the back button closes apps, and it did. Doing that restart cleared up the problem completely. It probably has some memory leaks or something.
 
B

BrownWalrus

Member
Just picked this up and went with the settings on the front page.

Is warm2 really the industry standard? Maybe the whole dynamic picture thing is a lie but that seems to look so much more impressive and pops more.

This feels really.. dark and washed out? Maybe just takes getting used to..
 
R

reKon

Banned
reKon said:
so I've finally got my KS8000 and set it up. Trying to unbox this TV by yourself is definitely a challenge (65 inch).

Anyways, it's quite a nice TV, but first thing I checked for was back panel issues. Left side was fine. Right side, nope...

I mean it's not bad, but it's definitely not glued in like the other side. I can press down it that corner and it moves in while the left doesn't.

I got mine through Costco. Should I just return this one and hope for a return result on the next one? Did some if you just ignore the back panel and it didn't get worse?

I hate dealing with returns, but I don't want to have issues down the road and I paid good money for this TV...
Click to expand...

No input on this? Alrighty then..
 
B

BrownWalrus

Member
Is the remote supposed to be used like a pointer?

I have to use the circle pad and manually click in the direction I want to go. I tried firing up the web browser (just to mess around) and wasn't able to point it at all.. or is it all manual?
 
B

bubumiao

Member
You can't order the 65" from Best Buy anymore. Not available in NY, PA, or MD either (in store). Get em while you can, I imagine they'll soon be gone for good.
 
P

philm87

Member
BrownWalrus said:
Is the remote supposed to be used like a pointer?

I have to use the circle pad and manually click in the direction I want to go. I tried firing up the web browser (just to mess around) and wasn't able to point it at all.. or is it all manual?
Click to expand...

Don't think it is, just have to use the buttons.
 
R

R-User!

Member
reKon said:
No input on this? Alrighty then..
Click to expand...

I've seen the inside of this TV and can tell you that there are only a few double sided tape strips located near the corners and center around the edge of the back panel cover, and that the reset of the panel just snaps into the back.

I would suggest trying to carefully manually snap the back cover into place without pressing too firmly into the screen with too much focal presssing.

Perhaps with a folded pair of micro fiber cloths (one in each hand) and a gentle to medium amount of pressure pressing together with each hand open flat to created a broader distribution of pressure.

I saw this TV get snapped back together, and it needs a decent amount of pressure, but not too much so as to damage the panel.

You could just return it to your local store if they have another to swap out, but if not, it would fall under warranty, and you'd probably have a guy come out and press it together for you.

From what I saw, I would imagine it's easy to pop open if the temperature was too high in a warehouse, or simply during movements while being moved around from the factory to your home.

You could check if there are any YouTube videos on popping it back into place.

Since you are under warranty, you should be good to get fix for free via a service call, or be able to exchange it for another unit if your local stores have one.

Where did you buy it again?

I saw 8 of them at my local Costco and they are 1479.00 right now....
 
R

reKon

Banned
R-User! said:
I've seen the inside of this TV and can tell you that there are only a few double sided tape strips located near the corners and center around the edge of the back panel cover, and that the reset of the panel just snaps into the back.

I would suggest trying to carefully manually snap the back cover into place without pressing too firmly into the screen with too much focal presssing.

Perhaps with a folded pair of micro fiber cloths (one in each hand) and a gentle to medium amount of pressure pressing together with each hand open flat to created a broader distribution of pressure.

I saw this TV get snapped back together, and it needs a decent amount of pressure, but not too much so as to damage the panel.

You could just return it to your local store if they have another to swap out, but if not, it would fall under warranty, and you'd probably have a guy come out and press it together for you.

From what I saw, I would imagine it's easy to pop open if the temperature was too high in a warehouse, or simply during movements while being moved around from the factory to your home.

You could check if there are any YouTube videos on popping it back into place.

Since you are under warranty, you should be good to get fix for free via a service call, or be able to exchange it for another unit if your local stores have one.

Where did you buy it again?

I saw 8 of them at my local Costco and they are 1479.00 right now....
Click to expand...



Got mine from Costco for that price. Costco has a 90 day exchange policy. The only issue is that I don't have a car in the city, unless I'm renting for work (which I actually will in a week or so). It's also I annoying with all the repackaging that I would need to do. My concern is that if this issue is very common, I'm not going to want to go through 3x exchanges. I will still probably try to exchange, but I just wanted to get some background on this and whether this could lead to later issues down the road.
 
R

reKon

Banned
bubumiao said:
This is a known issue with these tv's. Not excusing it, but it's there.

With these becoming scarce I'd probably just let it go.
Click to expand...

Cause they are clearing out for 2017 models right?

Rtings removed their recommendation because they say they are getting hard to find...

The Costco I went to had a ton of them. I could see them doing a final sale to drop down another $100 if it's still in stock around May
 
B

Belker

Member
To piggy back on what R-USer! said, here's a video of the back panel being repaired by a Samsung technician. It's just sticky tape folks. I don't think the repair even lasted. I suspect it's nothing to do with the tape and variation in the back panel and how bent or warped it is in production.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrrlQVcW2Zc
 
B

bubumiao

Member
reKon said:
Cause they are clearing out for 2017 models right?

Rtings removed their recommendation because they say they are getting hard to find...

The Costco I went to had a ton of them. I could see them doing a final sale to drop down another $100 if it's still in stock around May
Click to expand...

Yeah. If Costco has them and you can deal with the hassle then go for it. I'm no where near a Costco.
 
B

BrownWalrus

Member
philm87 said:
Don't think it is, just have to use the buttons.
Click to expand...

Cool, thank you.

Does anyone know if we still need to have backlight at 20 and contrast at 100 for proper HDR? Like for Horizon on PS4P?

I currently have game mode on w/ Backlight at 20, brightness at 45, Contrast at 100, sharpness at 10 (have heard 10-20 for this setting or 0.. no idea which to do), Color/Tint at 50, Smart LED at High, color tone standard, white balance untouched (i think the 2 option), and gamma at 0 and color space auto (UHD color on and hdmi black level at auto - not that it lets me change it).

I've also heard Dynamic Contrast could be set to low for HDR content to look better - anyone know if that's true? I have it off right now.
 
S

Slime Scholar

Member
Has anyone else had issues with their Switch on this thing?

I have a KS8500. It's great 99.9% of the time, but my Switch has an issue that I haven't been able to replicate on my Asus monitor. Every once in a while, usually every few hours, I get a horizontal tear that slowly moves from the top of the screen to the bottom, making it about halfway before disappearing. Sometimes, there's also a bit of R/B color separation, but not always.

It's very infrequent, which is good because it hasn't been too much of a distraction, but bad because it makes troubleshooting the issue a several hour-long process. I'm still open to the possibility that it's the console, but again, I can't replicate it on another monitor, and the only other person I spoke to with the issue still has it after sending his system in to Nintendo. I also think I've seen it on other consoles, but I've been second guessing that lately. Got the TV nearly a year ago, and haven't updated the firmware, so I don't know if that should be a factor.

There are probably other obvious things I haven't tried (I'm going to use the other HDMI port to see if that makes a difference) but if anyone actually knows what's going on, based on my (bad) description, I'd really appreciate the help. I'm not the most tech-savvy guy, especially with stuff like this.

Sorry if this isn't the place for this. Just figured someone here might know.
 
A

AndersK

Member
BrownWalrus said:
Cool, thank you.

Does anyone know if we still need to have backlight at 20 and contrast at 100 for proper HDR? Like for Horizon on PS4P?

I currently have game mode on w/ Backlight at 20, brightness at 45, Contrast at 100, sharpness at 10 (have heard 10-20 for this setting or 0.. no idea which to do), Color/Tint at 50, Smart LED at High, color tone standard, white balance untouched (i think the 2 option), and gamma at 0 and color space auto (UHD color on and hdmi black level at auto - not that it lets me change it).

I've also heard Dynamic Contrast could be set to low for HDR content to look better - anyone know if that's true? I have it off right now.
Click to expand...

Backlight has to be 20, no ifs or buts. It should adjust automatically whenever you play HDR content. Game mode doesn't switch back automatically however when doing SDR content, so keep that in mind.

Dynamic contrast is a goddamn travesty, but you have people who enjoy it, so it's all about preference.
The picture will have more of the elusive 'pop', but everything is gonna be rather blown out colour wise, so the picture is not as intended.
 
R

reKon

Banned
I guess I need to buy an HDMI 2.0 cable for this. I've been trying to figure why everything seemed so slow...

Then I realized that my TV has been locked to 30hz with no option of 60hz under the adapter settings. I love all the web sites I browsed to telling me that you probably don't need an HDMI 2.0. I know that they are trying to help the general public out, but they should probably be a bit more specific.

EDIT: I guess there's more to this. I have an r9 280 GPU. I guess I need a display port adapter?
 
P

philm87

Member
AndersK said:
Backlight has to be 20, no ifs or buts. It should adjust automatically whenever you play HDR content. Game mode doesn't switch back automatically however when doing SDR content, so keep that in mind.

Dynamic contrast is a goddamn travesty, but you have people who enjoy it, so it's all about preference.
The picture will have more of the elusive 'pop', but everything is gonna be rather blown out colour wise, so the picture is not as intended.
Click to expand...

I usually have DC off but find it looks really good on certain games. FIFA 17 I have it on high, just looks quite bland without it on, but on high it looks brilliant. Thought it was good to turn on for Ratchet and clank too.
 
H

hesido

Member
My Ks8500 just notified me for an installed update. I wonder what it does. (1168 it says)

I hope they take the LED blinking to reduce ghosting out of the auto motion plus settings in the game mode, which is unavailable in that mode. There's 0 amount of reasons it would increase input latency, and no reason to have it unavailable. The set is super bright as it is and it looks bright enough even when LED blinking is on.

I hope this, but of course, they won't. :/
 
ss_lemonade

ss_lemonade

Member
AndersK said:
Backlight has to be 20, no ifs or buts. It should adjust automatically whenever you play HDR content. Game mode doesn't switch back automatically however when doing SDR content, so keep that in mind.

Dynamic contrast is a goddamn travesty, but you have people who enjoy it, so it's all about preference.
The picture will have more of the elusive 'pop', but everything is gonna be rather blown out colour wise, so the picture is not as intended.
Click to expand...
I was in the camp too of not using DC but after playing around with it, I don't really see any negatives with using low or medium with HDR. High is where I see it trying to do something else other than just making the picture brighter.
 
M

michaelius

Banned
reKon said:
I guess I need to buy an HDMI 2.0 cable for this. I've been trying to figure why everything seemed so slow...

Then I realized that my TV has been locked to 30hz with no option of 60hz under the adapter settings. I love all the web sites I browsed to telling me that you probably don't need an HDMI 2.0. I know that they are trying to help the general public out, but they should probably be a bit more specific.

EDIT: I guess there's more to this. I have an r9 280 GPU. I guess I need a display port adapter?
Click to expand...

This looks like one of adapters released when Fury X released without hdmi 2.0 and AMD scrambled to make adapters

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
James Sawyer Ford

James Sawyer Ford

Member
With how bad both Nintendo and Samsung are with firmware updates, I feel like this SWITCH problem is going to exist for a long time....way longer than it should. Ugh.
 
S

squattingdonkey

Member
James Sawyer Ford said:
With how bad both Nintendo and Samsung are with firmware updates, I feel like this SWITCH problem is going to exist for a long time....way longer than it should. Ugh.
Click to expand...

I just bought this TV today. Is there any other work around to it switching to the Switch other than unplugging it? Quite annoying.

Also, for those that had the M series Vizio, how do they compare? I was debating back and forth between the 8500/8000 and the 70 inch Vizio M series
 
James Sawyer Ford

James Sawyer Ford

Member
squattingdonkey said:
I just bought this TV today. Is there any other work around to it switching to the Switch other than unplugging it? Quite annoying.

Also, for those that had the M series Vizio, how do they compare? I was debating back and forth between the 8500/8000 and the 70 inch Vizio M series
Click to expand...

It would be nice if Nintendo allowed you to turn off the Switch completely from the OS....but they don't. So you have to literally walk up and press some buttons to turn it off, or the easier way is to just unplug it from the TV.
 
G

Goose_Se7en

Banned
Belker said:
To piggy back on what R-USer! said, here's a video of the back panel being repaired by a Samsung technician. It's just sticky tape folks. I don't think the repair even lasted. I suspect it's nothing to do with the tape and variation in the back panel and how bent or warped it is in production.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrrlQVcW2Zc
Click to expand...

This is one of the main reasons why I got a KS9000 and not a KS8000. I saw this video a few months back and actually posted it in this very thread I believe. Read on AVS forums that some KS8000 owners were going thru this issue and I just said nope not getting that model.

AndersK said:
Backlight has to be 20, no ifs or buts. It should adjust automatically whenever you play HDR content. Game mode doesn't switch back automatically however when doing SDR content, so keep that in mind.

Dynamic contrast is a goddamn travesty, but you have people who enjoy it, so it's all about preference.
The picture will have more of the elusive 'pop', but everything is gonna be rather blown out colour wise, so the picture is not as intended.
Click to expand...

I agree. I tried DC and sure the colors did look more lively but I'm very anal about the picture being shown as intended. Folks who like DC are perfectly fine, just know that you prefer punchy colors as opposed to accurate ones and that's ok.
 
B

Belker

Member
Goose_Se7en said:
This is one of the main reasons why I got a KS9000 and not a KS8000. I saw this video a few months back and actually posted it in this very thread I believe. Read on AVS forums that some KS8000 owners were going thru this issue and I just said nope not getting that model.
Click to expand...

Ah, good stuff. I got lucky - which is a preposterous thing to say about an expensive TV - and the back of my KS7/8000 is fine.

I was more willing to take the risk because my TV came with a six-year guarantee. While a retailer might be able to wriggle out of it saying it's a known defect, I reasoned I could argue it was unsafe if it happened to me.
 
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