There's an option in settings (or maybe system) to turn automatic downloads on and to look for patches there and then.
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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
- Start date
There's an option in settings (or maybe system) to turn automatic downloads on and to look for patches there and then.
Mine was not picking up the latest update from the server for some reason so downloaded it from Samsung's Support site and put it on a USB stick using the included installer.
Plug the USB in the back of the TV and when you go support -> check for update it gives the option to use the USB.
It takes a while for them to make their way to the update directly on the TV.
Just pulled the trigger on the 55". Picture looks great coming from a 2011 LCD. Took me all night to set it up though. With my old TV I could run the HDMI through the receiver for picture/sound. Not with this TV though. My Pionieer VSX 1123 supposedly up scales and has 4K but it looked like shit so am running the HDMI right to the TV.
Running into issues using ARC to connect the sound to my home theater to the TV though especially with my PS4 when I boot it up. Got it to work but sometimes the sound is in Dolby Digital, sometimes it is in DTS and sometimes the sound is off or has delay.
Save for the sound issues, I do like the TV. Have to read this thread some more for some pictures settings ideas.
Running into issues using ARC to connect the sound to my home theater to the TV though especially with my PS4 when I boot it up. Got it to work but sometimes the sound is in Dolby Digital, sometimes it is in DTS and sometimes the sound is off or has delay.
Save for the sound issues, I do like the TV. Have to read this thread some more for some pictures settings ideas.
Your welcome
I am getting the same audio delay issues. I am using ARC as well, so I'm not sure if it would be fixed with a newer HDMI cable or by using optical instead. It's also noticably worse in game mode, but also present in Movie Mode. Adjusting the audio delay doesn't fix it. I've seen some threads about this in the support forums and it seems like another unresolved issue.
I had to do the same as my receiver doesn't support 4K at all. You can set the PS4 to Bitstream Dolby or Bitstream DTS (this setting only relates to games). When you're playing a blu ray it very much depends what the film has been encoded it. If it says nothing then it's usually Dolby, and it will usually say on the disc if it's DTS. I set mine to Dolby for games as this matches my sound for my Tivo, but I have to manually change it to DTS in the 'Audio Settings > Expert Settings' on the TV if I'm playing a DTS encoded blu ray.
I don't get any audio lag myself using HDMI, so I'm not sure what causes this. Maybe it's something to do with the quality of the HDMI cable running from the TV to the receiver.
benicillin
Banned
Got the 55" KS8000 at Best Buy yesterday for $999. Best price I'd seen on it locally so far. Upgraded from a 40" Sony KDL40W600B. It's totally changed my world.
As far as good settings to use go, are the rtings ones still the best recommended?
As far as good settings to use go, are the rtings ones still the best recommended?
It's strange, it's not so much the sound is lagging but its off. For example when I play call of duty black ops 3 the when I shoot someone the hit markers come through the center speaker as they should.
However the next time I play the game sometimes the hit markers comes though the top right speaker and I also notice the surround sound isn't working as it should (ie I don't hear lightning strikes above.) I can mess around with it and I can get it to work but it's a trial and error and a bit of a nuisance.
One more thing I did some research but still don't have an answer: I am using high speed HDMI cables (not 2.0 HDMI cables) should I buy 2.0 cable? I do watch some netflix 4K shows and I have a vanilla ps4. Would 2.0 make a difference?
There are technically no HDMI 2.0 cables, just the high speed ones. If you are not getting any dropouts in picture or audio then your cable most likely works just fine.
WolfRathmA
Member
Thank you for your time. I search, and this changes take effect only on English subs. What a waste! Very disappointed...
May be more to do with the speaker set up then? Have you set up the speaker distances? Is it definitely on a surround sound mode on your receiver? Could be the surround sound mixing isn't good in CoD. Do you have bitstream Dolby set on your ps4 options?
With the HDMI cables, make sure they're HDCP 2.2 compliant.
I think the speakers are set up okay. Been using the receiver for a few years. What is messing me up a little is I have been using PCM for years but when I try and use PCM as an option it simply comes out as stereo. I dunno the KS8000 ARC must code PCM differently.
I don't recall what my options on for the audio. I will have to check when I get home and see what I have. I can fix the issue I just have to mess around with the option on the ps4 but I swear every time I turn on the ps4 with the TV and home theater the sound is different as it says DTS sometimes and DD other times.
Im pretty sure PCM isn't available via ARC, just DD amd DTS
Yeah same with me for PCM coming out as stereo, may be some restriction on the amount of data it can transfer via ARC so it has to limit it to 2 channels, think I read that somewhere. I recommend setting the PS4 to bitstream Dolby, then making sure the tv audio expert settings are also set to Dolby. Will still have to change manually to DTS on the TV when watching a DTS Blu ray else it will play stereo pcm.
d.cay
Neo Member
I might have a tip for those struggling with the tint Warm 2 introduces to the image: you can get rid of it or at least reduce it significantly, if you take a few minutes and tinker with the 2-Point White Balance. May I quote my post again in which I describe my settings-process? It pretty much gives a few easy to apply steps with which you can get more out of your display WITHOUT just copying someone else's settings. Trust me, it works and some people here seem to agree. Today I would argue though to crank the backlight up a bit in SDR and reconsider the usage of Auto Motion Plus. So, without further ado:
Since I digged into the whole settings- and HDR-stuff, I thought it might be helpful for some people if I wrote it down in a single post. I own the German model KS7090, which equivalent in the US should be the KS8000. There is a splendid post in a German forum on how to set up a Samsung-TV, which settings to avoid and so on, here is a link: http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-151-28898.html . The following information is based on that, mixed with own tests and other sources. There is no guarantee that it is 100 % accurate but it could give you a valuable headstart on how to get the best out of your new TV.
First of all: I think you should NOT simply copy other people's settings, since even two devices assembled in the same factory on the same day can have differences on how they display the connected content. This is true especially for the 2- and 10-point white balance stuff. But this doesn't mean that there aren't some rules on how to get near a very good, natural looking picture without having to buy additional hardware to measure stuff.
Some considerations first: let your TV run for 15 minutes before you start the adjustments. Additionally, download the linked test-image (Edit: now in 4k: http://burosch.de/images/directdownload/06_Universaltestbild First-CheckUHD.jpg ) and put it on an USB-stick, we will need it later on. Then a hint concerning the resulting image on diplay: when you are finished with the settings and ready to give it a try with some gaming, tv-series or movies, give your eyes some time getting used to the maybe vastly different appearance. It might very well be that you were using a far too bright, colorful, over-sharpened setting and the new setup seems a little bit too red, dim and/or soft in comparison. But trust me: the latter one should be much nearer to a natural and pleasant look, it just needs some time to adjust and then you won't miss the old crap one bit.
Additions concerning HDR: there seems to be a misconception when talking about HDR and you might have to adjust your expectations, otherwise you might tune the device into false directions. If you are unsure, maybe read something like the first post under this link (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/465-h...2442082-hdr-misconceptions-still-prevail.html ). To make it short: the way I understand it, HDR DOES NOT mean, that the picture in HDR suddenly has popping colors all over it and is bright as the sun. No, I think it is rather far more capable to use the available range in color and brightness more effectively, carving out more details that would otherwise drown in the whites of a sunny sky or the blacks of a nightly forest, so to say. I am no expert, but that is how I understand it. So if you are disappointed at first that the image in HDR suddenly gets dimmer and not flashy, even after calibrating the set with my tips, give it an honest try, I think you won't miss a thing from SDR!
In the following section I will go through the different options piece by piece and give some information on how to tackle it. I won't go into it too deep though, but I mention differences for SDR- versus HDR-content where I see fit.
Picture Mode: Movie
This should be the definite basis for all further adjustments, so better take it.
Special Viewing Mode: Game Mode On if you are sensitive to input lag in games, if not, then Off is fine
Picture Size:
Fit to screen should be On to not lose any picture information on the edges.
Backlight: 5 at night, maybe more by day.
This controls the brightness of the panel and you pretty much can set it up how you like. In HDR-mode, this should automatically turn to max (20) and that is the right way for that kind of content.
Brightness: let it on the default setting (should be 45 or something near that)
The default setting should be pretty much okay so you can leave it alone.
Contrast: let it on the default setting (should be 100 or something near that)
Contrast is the less important setting, compared to Brightness and should already be very good by default
Edit: Additional information from Aske, thank you!
Sharpness: 0 or something in the range up to 20
I personally would leave it at Zero, since there should not be any necessity for artificial sharpening of proper HD- or UHD-material. There might be a difference though when using PC-Mode: I've read that the equivalent setting there is 50 instead of 0, but I have no confirmation on that at the moment.
Edit: Another additional information from Aske.
Color: leave it on default (should be 50)
Color should be set up just fine ex factory.
Tint (G/R): leave it on default (should be G50/R50)
Digital Clean View: Off, maybe Auto
Leave it Off unless you see some annoying grain in the picture. But I would leave it Off.
Auto Motion Plus: Custom
- Blur Reduction: 10
- Judder Reduction: 1-3
- LED Clear Motion: Off
I personally like Auto Motion Plus, since it works very efficiently in removing judder when the camera pans. Blur Reduction can be set to max, but Judder Reduction should be not higher than maybe 5 to avoid the not so cool looking ”Soap Opera Effect". If you are not susceptible to judder in camera motion, then maybe leave it off.
Additionaly, you can test for artifacts in the judder-test-videos of this guy on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/user/BitPusher321 .
Focus on the edges of the screen and test, whether you see black pixelation/ tearing, something like that (I don't know what to call it exactly ^^). If you do and it bothers you, then reduce the Judder Reduction. Try it with game mode OFF though, since Auto Motion Plus is not available in that mode, as far as I know.
Smart LED: Low for SDR, High for HDR
Since it is available, Smart-LED should be used, even in SDR. I recommend Low for SDR. In HDR this should be High.
HDMI UHD Color: On for all HDMI-ports where HDR-content is available.
HDMI Black Level: Auto
PS4 for example should be set to the Auto concerning RGB. If you are not sure whether it works correctly, try switching the HDMI-Black-Level-setting and see if the picture suddenly gets washed out or too dark. It is important that the connected device and the TV are both in the right mode.
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Leave that off, you want to avoid as much artificial stuff on top of the signal as possible. There might be a wow-effect when using it in conjunction with HDR-material though (and I personally am not sure right now, whether it should be On in HDR-mode or not). I've tested it with The Grand Tour on Amazon Video and it seems that there is a loss of information in bright areas (when looking into the sun, it becomes a bright mess when DC is on). Right now I think is best turned OFF at all times to get the most natural picture!
Colour Tone: Warm2
Try the setting Warm2. If you think it is too red, don't worry: on the one hand, this reaction is normal when coming from an unnatural cold setting. On the other hand, the following white balance can correct some unwanted tints in the white and grey spectrum. If you can't stand the look of it no matter what, you can switch to Warm1.
White Balance:
Before adjusting anything here, be sure to set up Colour Tone (I recommend Warm2) and Colour Space (I recommend Auto)! For the adjustments, we need the test image from the beginning of the post on an USB-stick or something ( Edit: now in 4k: http://burosch.de/images/directdownload/06_Universaltestbild First-CheckUHD.jpg ). The goal is to remove any tint of grey and white shades that might have been introduced by our settings so far. And don't worry, you don't have to be an expert to get at least the most basic adjustments right.
- 2 Point:
This adjusts two ranges of brightness, the darker one (Offset) and the brighter one (Gain), separate for each color-channel red, green and blue. Start with the Gain-settings since they are more visible. Here, firstly focus on the Red and Blue-Gains, Green can have side-effects. I personally have just changed R-Gain and B-Gain for now, maybe I will put some more time into it in the future. So, load up the test image and adjust the R-Gain and then the B-Gain. The aim is a perfectly white background while keeping the skin tone of the women natural. A light warm touch in the whites is acceptable too. To get rid of a red cast it might be necessary to dial down the R-Gain or turning up the B-Gain, or a combination. Don't get carried away though but try values in the range of +/- 10, or 15 tops. I for example settled (at the moment) with the following values, the rest being 0:
- R-Gain: -5
- B-Gain: 7
But again: don't copy them but try to get it right for YOUR panel, it is worth it!
- 10 Point: Off
Unless you are an expert (why are you reading this then?and/or have calibration tools, don't bother adjusting the 10 point setting
Gamma: -1, maybe -2
To make the Gamma higher, you have to go in the negative direction. I would recommend the setting -1
RGB Only Mode: Off, definitively
Colour Space: Auto
This setting should be fine for SDR- and HDR-content as well.
I hope my thoughts help some people and all of us a Merry Christmas!
Edit: test-image is now in 4k. Added additional information from other user, thank you!
Edit #2: in parts changed and added information in the Auto Motion Plus-section.
Edit: to view my settings-quote with the additional quotes inside of it correctly, please consider viewing the original post
After messing with more and more HDR games I think the DC off brightness level has more to do with each game than the TV settings. Forza Horizon 3 is pretty dim overall, Gears 4 is dim in menus and fine in game, Ghost Recon is fine in game now but still dim in menus, FFXV is perfect overall, and Mass Effect seems good overall as well. So, this must have more to do with content providers still coming to terms with how to approach HDR.
Edit: Strange, Movie mode seems inherently dimmer than any other mode in FH3, but only in HDR. It's almost like the backlight isnt fully ramping up for HDR in movie mode. I matched all settings between movie/standard/game, and I can watch in real time as the brightness increases going from movie mode to any other mode. All eco funtions are turned off, so that's not it.
Edit: Strange, Movie mode seems inherently dimmer than any other mode in FH3, but only in HDR. It's almost like the backlight isnt fully ramping up for HDR in movie mode. I matched all settings between movie/standard/game, and I can watch in real time as the brightness increases going from movie mode to any other mode. All eco funtions are turned off, so that's not it.
So the Rtings settings in the OP would be no good for my TV?
How much did the 55" cost ya?
They'd be fine. The same settings work well for all the KS series. Use them as a starting point then adjust to your personal preference.
That's fascinating, I was starting to come to a similar conclusion about settings being source specific. FFXV is perfect with DC off, but Netflix HDR requires DC at medium to be anything other than a dim mess.
Interesting point about Movie mode though. I wonder if watching Netflix on Standard would make a difference?
Ended up paying $999 for it at best buy.
I am just using DTS as there is less of a sound delay and quite frankly I don't notice a difference between Dolby and DTS.
Regardless I am still having slight sound delay issues. More or less I was testing it out with black ops 3 and the controller speaker is slightly ahead of the sound from the home theater. IE when I get a UAV the controller says UAV available then a millisecond later it comes from the speakers. Even when I try to adjust the sound delay it just won't be in sync . I don't have this issue at all with a digital optical cable I use for my other TV in my man cave.
It's not the end of the world and I know I am being nit picky but it's a little annoying.
I might have a tip for those struggling with the tint Warm 2 introduces to the image: you can get rid of it or at least reduce it significantly, if you take a few minutes and tinker with the 2-Point White Balance. May I quote my post again in which I describe my settings-process? It pretty much gives a few easy to apply steps with which you can get more out of your display WITHOUT just copying someone else's settings. Trust me, it works and some people here seem to agree. Today I would argue though to crank the backlight up a bit in SDR and reconsider the usage of Auto Motion Plus. So, without further ado:
Edit: to view my settings-quote with the additional quotes inside of it correctly, please consider viewing the original post
Been using this advice and it really helps with using warm 1 or 2, so can recommend​ it. Was struggling myself at first and didn't like the warm settings so thanks! Need to tinker with the test image a bit more but it's a great start.
I'm going to be testing out the other modes with different content later today. Testing FH3 was particularly easy because of the white boxes in the menu, but that games HDR implementation seems a bit off anyway, so I need to test some other things. I almost wonder if movie mode is locking the TV to a full color gamut mode when in HDR? I read something about Gears and FH3 not using wide color gamut, so they could appear dark if run at the wrong color setting.
Imp the Dimp
Member
Am I crazy for finding the predefined "natural" setting to be the best? I like the vibrant picture.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
Use what you like! That's what it's all about in the end. I can't stand the loss in detail though.
Shai-Tan
Banned
if that's your taste it's fine even if it isn't accurate. I use HDR+ on my cable box, especially nature docs, but stick to more conservative settings for actually good tv, movies, etc
Got a nice deal on a 65" KS8000 and am super excited to get it on the wall. I now need a new receiver.
I'm looking for a reasonably priced (under $500?) that handles 4K/HDR properly for UHD devices, and in standby, can simply pass through video/audio for a TV set top box if I would rather not use 5.1. I'd like to feed everything through the AVR basically. Doesn't need any wifi or premium features. Any suggestions?
I'm looking for a reasonably priced (under $500?) that handles 4K/HDR properly for UHD devices, and in standby, can simply pass through video/audio for a TV set top box if I would rather not use 5.1. I'd like to feed everything through the AVR basically. Doesn't need any wifi or premium features. Any suggestions?
I'm glad someone else has noticed this. Hitman with the HDR patch, with DC off, is very dim. I have to play with the DC on medium. However, Horizon Zero Dawn, works great with DC off. NBA2k17 at launch was very dim with DC off, basically unplayable on any setting except High. Now, the brightness is uniform across all DC settings. Definitely think that different games have different HDR settings that require different uses of DC.
ss_lemonade
Member
I normally play with DC on medium now. I noticed that low and medium just seem to improve brightness for HDR content, while the high setting starts to clip blacks and whites
I know the 6400 doesn't have 10-bit HDR.
What TV mode do you usually use, movie, standard, game? I'm finding that it changes on a game by game basis, but also display modes seem to differ as well. Movie mode seems much more dim than other modes in HDR content.
It does. I have looked at a few recommended settings on youtube and they all start with movie mode. I used their settings but it just seems so dark and dim. May take me a while to find a good setting that I like.
Also dumb question but if a game is HDR do I have to enable that option on the TV as well or will the ps4 take care of that already?
Smart man. I always forget to put my shoes on when I go to Best Buy. I have to constantly shower the employees with dollar bills, or they assume I'm a hobo trying to use their warm TVs as a source of heat to cook my beans.
I think it was Heel that started the red/blue separation thread on the Samsung forum. It's going great guns. A Samsung mod just posted this:
Thanks to you guys here we have been able to get the developers and specialists aware and Samsung is looking into this further. I would not call it a known issue just yet as it is still being researched, but I can confirm we are looking into it.
https://us.community.samsung.com/t5...olor-separation-in-Game-Mode/m-p/85826#M12084
Keep the pressure on.
Thanks to you guys here we have been able to get the developers and specialists aware and Samsung is looking into this further. I would not call it a known issue just yet as it is still being researched, but I can confirm we are looking into it.
https://us.community.samsung.com/t5...olor-separation-in-Game-Mode/m-p/85826#M12084
Keep the pressure on.
Need to turn UHD Colour on in the Picture > Expert Settings for the HDMI port you are using (may as well turn all of them on). Also get more from HDR if you turn the backlight up to 20. When you start up hdr content the screen should briefly go blank then pop back up and say 'A HDR Video is playing' in the top left.
mario_O
Member
The KU6400 is the KU7000 in the US. Rtings has a good review on the KU7000. The main difference is the peak brightness (nits). The KU6400 only gets up to 400 nits. But it has a 'wide color gamut' and a 10 bit panel too, so it still looks decent for HDR content.
All of my experiences were in Game mode.
#sorrynotsorry
Member
I searched online and couldn't find it. Does it matter what HDMI port I plug things into? I know on some TVs it does.
Yeah, good to hear they're at least aware.
Hey everyone - just set up the ks800D (Costco model) yesterday using the settings from Rtings. I've seen a couple scattered posts on this, but with no concrete answer. I've had the screen flicker to black and then come back when playing a game.
I have the ps4 Pro screen display settings all set to auto.
I have UHD turned on for the input, with the rest of the settings per Rtings.
Are you all aware of a specific setting, input port, or otherwise that causes this flickering? Seems odd considering the cost of this set.
Thanks!
I have the ps4 Pro screen display settings all set to auto.
I have UHD turned on for the input, with the rest of the settings per Rtings.
Are you all aware of a specific setting, input port, or otherwise that causes this flickering? Seems odd considering the cost of this set.
Thanks!
SolidSnakeUS
Member
I have the same issue. I've seen it go to black and then come back. I've seen the colors go fucky and then go back to normal and I have no explanation. However, it only happens when I'm playing NHL 17 (I haven't played too many PS4 games lately. I know P5 didn't have an issue).
Hey SS I tweeted at Playstation and Samsung this AM. Sony said to try changing the HDCP mode to 1.4, while Samsung said they are working on a firmware update.