saltyramen
Member
My only wish is that they fix the Game Mode HDR.. probably won't ever happen at this rate though.
Like I said I have fiddled with the settings for hours done every possible thing I can think of taking the brightness down, up... etc. Of course if I make it super dark it gets less noticeable, but so does the picture quality cause you can hardly see anything on the screen, but still 4k quality video tv-shows should not look like you're watching something from a CCTV camera. I am going to try out some premium 4k HDMI cables and if that doesn't work then I might just return the whole thing
But coincidentally after posting this last night, I saw this thing go on clearance on Slickdeals and ordered one:
https://slickdeals.net/f/10414672-b...e-amplifier-and-usb-dac-25-shipped-via-amazon
It appears to be the same idea (bluetooth receiver mode only), but can be used as a DAC/amp for a more quality pair of headphones.
I did the same thing and turning down the brightness fix my issue that showed some macro blocking.
My only wish is that they fix the Game Mode HDR.. probably won't ever happen at this rate though.
Im debating whether to buy the mu9000 and this is the one thing holding me back. Although someone in another thread says this isnt really an issue as it is very quick to change. And failing that, just leave brightness high for both sdr and hdr.
Backlight doesnt automatically change to 20 when HDR content is displayed.What's the issue exactly, I'm still not sure I understand it.
Backlight doesnt automatically change to 20 when HDR content is displayed.
Yes, its far too bright for SDR. This is coming from someone who uses 13 for my consoles as I prefer a brighter more vivid image for gaming.Although cant we just set sdr to 20 and leave it there? That way you dont need to change. Is that too dazzling for sdr content?
In case someones missed it, Steam link is now in the appstore. Same functionality as the 50 euro steam link, for all yer pc-to-tv streaming needs. Does 4K too!
Yes, its far too bright for SDR. This is coming from someone who uses 13 for my consoles as I prefer a brighter more vivid image for gaming.
I wonder whether there is a brightness level that suits both you can just leave it at? Eg 15 or 16. Like a compromise setting but at least you dont gave to play with the settings everytime you change game.
You'll want 20 for HDR.
Its frustrating as i am very close to pulling the trigger on the mu9000 but this is a bit of a sticking point. And depending who you talk to its either a big deal or nothing to worry about.
Am I crazy, because I feel like my TV does change to 20 automatically? When I was playing Horizon or Ratchet & Clank on PS4 pro it was automatically going to 20 but if I played something else it was at my default 4.
Are you in Standard or Movie mode? With Game Mode on it doesn't do shit.Am I crazy, because I feel like my TV does change to 20 automatically? When I was playing Horizon or Ratchet & Clank on PS4 pro it was automatically going to 20 but if I played something else it was at my default 4.
It won't come backThe TV randomly forgets input names and icons sometimes. It's annoying.
Are you in Standard or Movie mode? With Game Mode on it doesn't do shit.
Its frustrating as i am very close to pulling the trigger on the mu9000 but this is a bit of a sticking point. And depending who you talk to its either a big deal or nothing to worry about.
Rtings said:HDR GAMING SETTINGS
For HDR gaming apply the same HDMI settings mentioned in the HDR settings and game settings above. Note that when in game mode, the TV won't change the backlight setting and the local dimming setting automatically, so it is preferable to set the backlight to max and set the local dimming to high.
I'm going with Low right now. And this is coming from someone who thought High was always correct lol. Low looks fine. I guess your mileage will vary depending on gameIs the dynamic contrast debate for HDR still alive and well?
Most recently, I tried running dc off on uncharted 4 and I just could not do it. The image was absurdly dim, even with 20 backlight. Id say low at a minimum, with an argument for medium. High definitely starts to distort the saturation to an easily visible degree.
Rtings said the new models have the same problem.
In case someones missed it, Steam link is now in the appstore. Same functionality as the 50 euro steam link, for all yer pc-to-tv streaming needs. Does 4K too!
Does that mean that SDR should not have local dimming?
No. Local dimming is great on SDR too, tho I keep mine on low to minimize blooming. They just want to make sure you turn it on for HDR because with the backlight at 20, dark areas of the screen could not get dark enough with it off. HDR is all about that contrast between dark and bright, along with expanded color support.
You're losing detail on whites/bright areas but that's fine if you can live with it. I played on that setting for 4 months til I saw the light. Much happier now. If you don't wanna lose detail I recommend just upping your Color if you like the saturation that much.I am using High DC on all content. I dunno can't get myself to switch to lower settings.
Dat artificial pop is too nice.
First, the 2017 mu9000 is a different model than the 2016 KS8000 which is what this thread is about. Do you know that the mu9000 suffers from the same issue?
Second, although it's easy to conflate the two in idle discussion, brightness and backlight are two completely different things when it comes to TV settings. The HDR bug/limitation only affects the backlight, despite some replies mentioning brightness above. This only happens in Game Mode.
Third, IF the mu9000 has the same issue, then yes, you will need to go in and change the backlight setting every time you play an HDR game or revert to a non-HDR game provided you are using game mode as mentioned above.
I love my KS8000 but it is NOT a "set it and forget it" affair. If frequent fiddling around in the menus sounds annoying, you should probably steer clear.
Am I crazy, because I feel like my TV does change to 20 automatically? When I was playing Horizon or Ratchet & Clank on PS4 pro it was automatically going to 20 but if I played something else it was at my default 4.
Is the dynamic contrast debate for HDR still alive and well?
Most recently, I tried running dc off on uncharted 4 and I just could not do it. The image was absurdly dim, even with 20 backlight. Id say low at a minimum, with an argument for medium. High definitely starts to distort the saturation to an easily visible degree.
Does anyone ever get a grey rectangle of noise that flashes near the top of the screen very occasionally?
Have noticed it a few times while gaming it will just flash this bar for a sec and go away. Not sure what it could be. Only ever seen it in game mode and its happened on different inputs and cables. Wondering if its a game mode problem or my oneconnect box
I gotta say, I only had low-end Samsung sets before this one, and I had far less software issues with them than with this "premium" one.
Many modern TVs essentially contain a full computer system with an OS and apps. The more features it has, the more complexity is involved, and therefore the greater likelihood that there are bugs. Not to mention that HDR is still in "early adopter" phase. It is still not completely standardized, with multiple formats and implementations out there. So it makes sense that higher-end sets have more software issues. Buying an HDR set in 2016 (KS8000) is kinda like volunteering to beta-test the technology.
I know some people who pine for the days of simple, "dumb" TVs. You can still get them with low-end sets but now many of them are starting to come with smart features and firmware updates.
OK, so help me out here because I think I'm going mad. Has Samsung done something to this TV to fix the HDR problem?
All of a sudden HDR is looking great to me, with no dynamic contrast, no gamma adjustments, just backlight turned to 20 as it should be. I'm not seeing any of the "grey filter" problems or dimness that I struggled with for months. It's bright and colourful and looks fantastic both in and out of game mode.
Now there are three possibilities:
- My eyes and expectations have adjusted over months of owning this set; I've gone from using Dynamic Contrast to using Gamma to using nothing at all, so I've gradually become accustomed to a less vivid, more natural HDR picture. I don't *think* this is the reason because I definitely used to get issues with the "grey filter" over an HDR picture but I can't deny the possibility.
- Or, Samsung has done something in the last couple of firmware revisions to fix this (I'm on 1201).
- Or, there is some bug in the set that's causing the grey filter/excessive dimness to appear for some users but not others - and somehow I was suffering from it and now that's no longer the case. That would explain why some people seem to swear by using DC and others refuse to touch it.
Anyway, the set's looking great now. But I don't get it, I don't get it at all. Is anyone else experiencing the HDR picture looking significantly better without processing enhancements on the latest firmware?
I'm on update 1180 (still...) and the back button on my remote decided to only work in a very few cases. It makes navigation infuriating. I bought a second remote because I always lose mine anyway so I can check if it's just an issue with the remote itself when I get some time, but between that and the TV forgetting the input names constantly I won't be buying a Samsung in the future. Extremely frustrating experience so far and the input thing has to be some simple fix that Samsung just hasn't bothered to take care of.
Also is there seriously no way to kill an app?
When I leave them I feel like they're all still running since I'm not actually exiting out of anything. I usually just hit the home button to leave it since the back button does nothing.
The whole thing feels like a beta test.
Luckily the picture is good and I got it for cheap from someone else or I would have returned it.
You are indeed correct. If you just preas home the app runs in the background.
To quit the app you click and hold the back button.
Blah figures. I wonder if holding back would work then. I've got to try that other remote I guess and make sure the TV is the issue and not just the remote itself.
Samsungs testing of firmwares leaves a lot to be desired thats for sure. Certain things are glitchy with the more recent updates.
I'm hoping that the future firmwares will improve said glitches in the future. Luckily most things have a workaround.
If the image quality wasnt so great I woild have made the switch to LG OLED kr even Sony now since they utilise LG OLED panels.
Samsung need to take a good look inwards ans assess what needs to be done feom a QA perspective amongst their electronic devices since their competitors are doing a better job.
Samsungs testing of firmwares leaves a lot to be desired thats for sure. Certain things are glitchy with the more recent updates.
I'm hoping that the future firmwares will improve said glitches in the future. Luckily most things have a workaround.
If the image quality wasnt so great I would have made the switch to LG OLED or even Sony now since they utilise LG OLED panels.
Samsung need to take a good look inwards and assess what needs to be done from a QA perspective amongst their electronic devices since their competitors are doing a better job.
Just updated to 1180. Thought I'd check my go-to "is HDR fucked up?" Netflix show: Santa Clarita Diet. And huh! Now I can set the Gamma back to 0. No longer any need to crank it to 3 to kill that weird grey filter and make sunlight work. Not saying they're perfectly crafted chunks of finest coding, but as far as this issue goes, Samsung's firmware division did a great job.
Just updated to 1180. Thought I'd check my go-to "is HDR fucked up?" Netflix show: Santa Clarita Diet. And huh! Now I can set the Gamma back to 0. No longer any need to crank it to 3 to kill that weird grey filter and make sunlight work. Not saying they're perfectly crafted chunks of finest coding, but as far as this issue goes, Samsung's firmware division did a great job.