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4K UHD/Blu-ray/DVD Community Thread: Bringing the Theater Home!

Yeah, might be a long wait for there to be something that equals 15-perf 70mm IMAX film in digital resolution. Isn't it theoretically close to 12K? Apples to oranges, I know.

Watch the Yedlin resolution demos. There are issues at play other than pixel count that affect image quality, and honestly an Alexa 65 can provide a perceptual experience comparable to 15-perf 70mm scanned in at 11k.
 
it really depends on the film. Scanning 35mm at 8k would be a waste of time and money. Scanning 70mm would not.

Exactly, which makes me wonder if we really are starting to hit the ceiling on quality, at least for old films shot on 35mm.

I remember back when DVD came out, and when Bluray came out, you had ignorant people claiming that old films would see no benefit over VHS or DVD, and while they were very wrong there is a point where you can't extract more detail from the film. UHD might be about there.
 

berzeli

Banned
Can't speak to Blade Runner but Labyrinth has more pronounced grain (actually grain aliasing) in 4K vs the 1080p version. The 30th anniversary release was taken from a new 4K scan of the negative but therein lies the issue: the 1080p version benefits from significant down-sampling which greatly reduces grain aliasing.

One of the reasons you never scan film at your target resolution, always oversample. Drum scanners have insane resolutions like 8000-12000 ppi (pixels per inch); film doesn't actually resolve that high but those high sample rates do serve a purpose beyond resolving detail. I believe Lawrence of Arabia was scanned at 8000ppi (well they state 8K but scanners don't have input resolutions in Ks) and down-sampled for the 4K release.
Best practices is considered 6K scan for 4K restoration and 3K scan for 2K restoration. (for 35mm)
One would hope that Sony is following these best practices these days, but this is what Grover Crisp who heads the Sony restorations said in 2011:
Q: You mentioned 4K - when talking about film restoration in the digital space, much attention is paid to the resolution involved. Given the need to balance budget, quality and future archival needs, how do you decide which resolution - 2K, 4K, even 6K and higher - is the optimal one in which to work for any given film? What considerations made 4K the right choice for Taxi Driver?

A: We have really looked at all the options over the last few years and our conclusion, which is not unique to us, of course, is that film, regardless of what the particular element is, needs to be scanned at 4K at a minimum. That's why Colorworks at the studio, where all of the Taxi Driver work eventually came together, was built as a full 4K digital facility. If you look at some of the tests available, especially those published by Arri the last couple of years, you realize what is being lost by scanning at a lower resolution for 35mm film. Plus, the concept of oversampling comes into play. So, we scan all our 35mm material, whether it is a big restoration or just a re-mastering project for Blu-ray, at 4K. But, depending on the material you are working with, it may be beneficial to actually scan at even higher resolutions, while larger formats, like 65mm, may require higher resolutions in order to accurately capture the information in the film frame.

So at least he's aware of oversampling, but I haven't found anything more recent where he talks about this.

For anyone who is interested in the technical side (and lord is it technical): 4K+ Systems - Theory Basics for Motion Picture Imaging (PDF) is basically the bible.
if you've ever used a digital camera you shoot at ISO 1600 or 3200 you know there is a lot of "noise" or at this point stuff that like awfully similar to film grain. If you look at it at full resolution it looks really grainy, but if you down sample that same picture and look at it in its new full size the grain isn't as noticeable.

the same thing is true of film. If you scan a 35mm film at 2k its not going to exhibit as much grain if you compare it to a 4k scan of 35mm. There is also likely to be more detail at 4k.
and I understand you again, maybe it was the way you phrased it or whatever.
 

XOMTOR

Member
Lawrence of Arabia has an AMAZING 1080p blu-ray transfer, this explains why!

I hope studios choose to invest in super high resolution scans for older films.

For 4K remasters, scanning at higher than the final target resolution and down-sampling would be ideal for delivering cleaner IQ. Of course, scanning a full length film at 8000ppi per frame would result in an enormous amount of data. Obviously possible as evidenced by Lawrence of Arabia but not many movies are going to receive that amount of TLC.

it really depends on the film. Scanning 35mm at 8k would be a waste of time and money. Scanning 70mm would not.

Yea, 35mm film isn't going to resolve 8K worth of actual detail so unlikely there will be any benefit for future "8K" TVs/Blu rays in that respect. However, like I said above, scanning it higher resolutions will be worthwhile for 4K releases to reduce grain aliasing effects.
 

-shadow-

Member
So anyone happens to have the Shock Treatment (Rocky Horror sequel) blu-ray? I've already ordered it, but won't receive it the next two weeks. Really curious what the mastering is, because the DVD, while certainly a upgrade from the VHS, was still really lacking.
 

Dpp1978

Neo Member
For 4K remasters, scanning at higher than the final target resolution and down-sampling would be ideal for delivering cleaner IQ. Of course, scanning a full length film at 8000ppi per frame would result in an enormous amount of data. Obviously possible as evidenced by Lawrence of Arabia but not many movies are going to receive that amount of TLC.

All pro motion picture film scanners oversample as standard. The Northlight scanner scans 35mm at 8K and downsamples to 4K: specifically to eliminate aliasing. The Arriscan used to scan at 6K and downsample to 4K, but that might have changed. And if so it'll only be for the better. Even when 2K scans were the norm the scanner itself worked at 4K but downsampled.

Sony is one of the best in the business as far as asset protection is concerned. I can't believe they'd use a sub par scanner. But I haven't seen Labyrinth at 4K (yet) so can't comment as to how the disk looks.

Yea, 35mm film isn't going to resolve 8K worth of actual detail so unlikely there will be any benefit for future "8K" TVs/Blu rays in that respect. However, like I said above, scanning it higher resolutions will be worthwhile for 4K releases to reduce grain aliasing effects.

Outside of selling us a new TV every few years, I have yet to hear a good argument for 8K in the home. Even 4K is overkill in a lot of domestic situations.
 

XOMTOR

Member
All pro motion picture film scanners oversample as standard. The Northlight scanner scans 35mm at 8K and downsamples to 4K: specifically to eliminate aliasing. The Arriscan used to scan at 6K and downsample to 4K, but that might have changed. And if so it'll only be for the better. Even when 2K scans were the norm the scanner itself worked at 4K but downsampled.

Good to know.

Sony is one of the best in the business as far as asset protection is concerned. I can't believe they'd use a sub par scanner. But I haven't seen Labyrinth at 4K (yet) so can't comment as to how the disk looks.

The release info for the 30th anniversary 4K/1080p Blu ray specifically stated that they used a new 4K film scan for the remaster so if they scanned at 8K, they made no mention of it. I have the combo so have seen both and the 4K version certainly has a lot more grain aliasing. If they scanned at 8K and down-sampled, it sure doesn't look like it.
 
Finally got Pacific Rim UHD in the mail. I heard it's one of the best discs you can get and I love the movie. Should be a good watch sometime in the next few days.

Holy shit just tried Pacific Rim to test quality and I love that it actually fills the whole screen. Annoying having black bars in other movies.
 

Dpp1978

Neo Member
The release info for the 30th anniversary 4K/1080p Blu ray specifically stated that they used a new 4K film scan for the remaster so if they scanned at 8K, they made no mention of it. I have the combo so have seen both and the 4K version certainly has a lot more grain aliasing. If they scanned at 8K and down-sampled, it sure doesn't look like it.

The downsampling is done in the scanner before the 4K file is output. It saves bandwidth and storage that way. So even if it were scanned on a Northlight (which is what was used for Lawrence of Arabia) it would still be a 4K scan, 8K sensor notwithstanding.

Could it be the negative had a very sharp grain structure rather than aliasing? I only ask as you are the first I have seen to mention it.
 

robotrock

Banned
Lucy looks really good on my 4k non HDR TV (using an Xbox One S). Kind of shocked? I thought the colors would look really washed out or something
 

pauljeremiah

Gold Member
I'm having a weird issue with my 4K setup.

I have a Sony 4K TV and a Sony soundbar, the HT-XT3, in my home office, and I have the Samsung 4K player.

I am using a dual HDMI setup, one for picture and the second one for audio. If I just use one HDMI the PQ is 4K/HDR but the sound quality takes a small dip as the TV can only process DD and DTS but not True DD or DTS-HD.

When I put a disc in the sound bar tries to get the sound from the TV by default and I have to manually change the input for audio to HDMI1. Which is fine, a very small price to pay for better sound quality, but anytime I pause a film or fast forward or rewind, but not scene skip, the input reverts back to TV.

Any ideas as to how I might go about to fix this?
 

Westonian

Member
I'm having a weird issue with my 4K setup.

I have a Sony 4K TV and a Sony soundbar, the HT-XT3, in my home office, and I have the Samsung 4K player.

I am using a dual HDMI setup, one for picture and the second one for audio. If I just use one HDMI the PQ is 4K/HDR but the sound quality takes a small dip as the TV can only process DD and DTS but not True DD or DTS-HD.

When I put a disc in the sound bar tries to get the sound from the TV by default and I have to manually change the input for audio to HDMI1. Which is fine, a very small price to pay for better sound quality, but anytime I pause a film or fast forward or rewind, but not scene skip, the input reverts back to TV.

Any ideas as to how I might go about to fix this?

Sounds like a CEC issue, where the TV or Blu-ray player is forcing the soundbar to revert back to the HDMI input being used for video. See if there is a setting on the TV and Blu-ray player to turn CEC off.
 

jett

D-Member
Wasn't Speed Racer shot in 2K/1080p? If they upscale this for UHD, you probably won't get an increase in clarity, but should be worth it for the HDR and WCG alone! I hope they can work in Dolby Atmos as a bonus. That should work really well for this movie.

A remaster of Speed Racer would be a decent upgrade probably. It's a 140 minute that was released on a single-layer BD, and with just a 5.1 DD track.

Then again I don't see WB spending any money on this movie lol. It's as true a bomb as you can get. Probably never made any money on any level whatsoever.

Exactly, which makes me wonder if we really are starting to hit the ceiling on quality, at least for old films shot on 35mm.

You know what, whatever "experts" say, I have a hard time believing 35mm movies can look any/much better than 4K, based on my theater experience. Nevermind at home!
 

robotrock

Banned
My Xbox One S usually stutters at the beginning of the only UHD bluray I have (Lucy), but if I pause the movie right at the start, it doesn't stutter. Maybe this helps it buffer or something? Idk
 

XOMTOR

Member
The downsampling is done in the scanner before the 4K file is output. It saves bandwidth and storage that way. So even if it were scanned on a Northlight (which is what was used for Lawrence of Arabia) it would still be a 4K scan, 8K sensor notwithstanding.

Could it be the negative had a very sharp grain structure rather than aliasing? I only ask as you are the first I have seen to mention it.

I'm not the only one who's noticed it; a few of the Blu-ray forum members have noticed it as well. Who knows what scanner it was captured from. I guess if it was a Northlight 2, the 1080p Blu-ray got quite a bit of downsampling.

Perhaps I'm a bit more sensitive to grain than others though. Before digital, I shot nothing but transparency film for still photography (still do on occasion) and scanned on a drum scanner which to me is still the gold standard. The combination of the collimated light source, PMTs, fluid-mounting, insane resolutions and adjustable aperture brought out detail and clarity in slow E6 films like no other combo could. Then someone would ask to have a C-41 neg scanned..yuck!
 
Bought the first two Planet of the Apes movies from a seller on ebay. After two weeks, they finally arrived:

D9IIrjc.jpg


TmoNjlY.jpg


I have never seen something like that before. He literally reused a shipping package, and electric taped the new label over the old, badly. It wasn't pushed down at all, so you can just see the old label no problem. I can't believe the post office even allowed this, and I can't believe it made it to me without the label getting damaged and falling off.

But, whatever. Got my movies, and they are just fine.

What are the options for the bluray movies?

Here are the free ones:


After that, they offer you an expanded list where you can add more movies for $14 a pop. I can't remember what options there were, but they weren't much better. I did get Labyrinth.
 

Jesus Carbomb

From Water into Guinness
Bought the first two Planet of the Apes movies from a seller on ebay. After two weeks, they finally arrived:

https://i.imgur.com/D9IIrjc.jpg[img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/TmoNjlY.jpg[img]

I have never seen something like that before. He literally reused a shipping package, and electric taped the new label over the old, badly. It wasn't pushed down at all, so you can just see the old label no problem. I can't believe the post office even allowed this, and I can't believe it made it to me without the label getting damaged and falling off.

But, whatever. Got my movies, and they are just fine.[/QUOTE]

That is pretty bad. I'd honestly consider neutral feedback to give other buyers a heads up on this individuals shoddy packaging. That could've easily gotten lost in transit.

Also, get rid of that tracking number in your pic. Never know who's lookin.
 
Alright, question for you all, I haven't messed with TV A/V stuff... well, ever. Not like this.

I'm gonna be getting that new Apple TV 4K for all my 4K viewings. I'm not getting an Xbox or UHD player or anything like that, I'm aware of the comparable downsides of streaming 4K but I'm honestly fine with it. With that being said, audio question for you all.

I'm only going to have three things going to my TV: Apple TV 4K, Nintendo Switch, and Steam Link. The ATV only outputs in Dolby Digital/Plus up to 7.1, which can easily be moved across something like HDMI ARC if I really wanted it to. However, both the Nintendo Switch and the Steam Link only do 5.1 in PCM, which cannot be passed through HDMI ARC or an optical cable from the TV. They have to go through an AV receiver in order to get surround sound.

Here's my conundrum: I'm not super wild about passing everything (ATV, Switch, Steam Link) through a receiver since I'm going to have very different calibrations for games versus movies and TV, and since that gets output from one cable, every source (to my knowledge) would share one calibration on the screen.

Is there a way to get all three things hooked up to my television so they can all be in their best surround sound while not sharing a common calibration, through a combination of ARC or receivers or something? For reference I'm flexible with what receiver to get, I haven't picked one up, but the television I'm buying soon is the LG55C7 OLED
 

MrFlooD

Member
Alright, question for you all, I haven't messed with TV A/V stuff... well, ever. Not like this.

I'm gonna be getting that new Apple TV 4K for all my 4K viewings. I'm not getting an Xbox or UHD player or anything like that, I'm aware of the comparable downsides of streaming 4K but I'm honestly fine with it. With that being said, audio question for you all.

I'm only going to have three things going to my TV: Apple TV 4K, Nintendo Switch, and Steam Link. The ATV only outputs in Dolby Digital/Plus up to 7.1, which can easily be moved across something like HDMI ARC if I really wanted it to. However, both the Nintendo Switch and the Steam Link only do 5.1 in PCM, which cannot be passed through HDMI ARC or an optical cable from the TV. They have to go through an AV receiver in order to get surround sound.

Here's my conundrum: I'm not super wild about passing everything (ATV, Switch, Steam Link) through a receiver since I'm going to have very different calibrations for games versus movies and TV, and since that gets output from one cable, every source (to my knowledge) would share one calibration on the screen.

Is there a way to get all three things hooked up to my television so they can all be in their best surround sound while not sharing a common calibration, through a combination of ARC or receivers or something? For reference I'm flexible with what receiver to get, I haven't picked one up, but the television I'm buying soon is the LG55C7 OLED


Few things, different calibrations for different devices could be handled via the TV picture modes.

Also, you may want to look into a dual output reciever. Example, I have a Denon 2300W and have both outputs hooked up to my LG B7. One input is PC mode for all my gaming and cable. Other input is standard settings for BluRays & UHD movies. (You lose real cinema with PC mode)
 
Alright, question for you all, I haven't messed with TV A/V stuff... well, ever. Not like this.

I'm gonna be getting that new Apple TV 4K for all my 4K viewings. I'm not getting an Xbox or UHD player or anything like that, I'm aware of the comparable downsides of streaming 4K but I'm honestly fine with it. With that being said, audio question for you all.

I'm only going to have three things going to my TV: Apple TV 4K, Nintendo Switch, and Steam Link. The ATV only outputs in Dolby Digital/Plus up to 7.1, which can easily be moved across something like HDMI ARC if I really wanted it to. However, both the Nintendo Switch and the Steam Link only do 5.1 in PCM, which cannot be passed through HDMI ARC or an optical cable from the TV. They have to go through an AV receiver in order to get surround sound.

Here's my conundrum: I'm not super wild about passing everything (ATV, Switch, Steam Link) through a receiver since I'm going to have very different calibrations for games versus movies and TV, and since that gets output from one cable, every source (to my knowledge) would share one calibration on the screen.

Is there a way to get all three things hooked up to my television so they can all be in their best surround sound while not sharing a common calibration, through a combination of ARC or receivers or something? For reference I'm flexible with what receiver to get, I haven't picked one up, but the television I'm buying soon is the LG55C7 OLED

How are you planning on managing your content? Going all in on iTunes, Vudu or something else?
 

J_Viper

Member
Just ordered Pacific Rim and Unforgiven on 4K.

I then realized I already had Unforgiven on regular blu-ray and haven't watched it yet. Guess I'll trade that old one in...
 

Vyer

Member
My Xbox One S usually stutters at the beginning of the only UHD bluray I have (Lucy), but if I pause the movie right at the start, it doesn't stutter. Maybe this helps it buffer or something? Idk

Both Lucy and Oblivion 4K uhds have problems with Xbox one S. they are both universal uhds. Not sure about Lucy, but for a lot of people Oblivion won't play at all
 

Dez

Member
Alright, question for you all, I haven't messed with TV A/V stuff... well, ever. Not like this.

I'm gonna be getting that new Apple TV 4K for all my 4K viewings. I'm not getting an Xbox or UHD player or anything like that, I'm aware of the comparable downsides of streaming 4K but I'm honestly fine with it. With that being said, audio question for you all.

I'm only going to have three things going to my TV: Apple TV 4K, Nintendo Switch, and Steam Link. The ATV only outputs in Dolby Digital/Plus up to 7.1, which can easily be moved across something like HDMI ARC if I really wanted it to. However, both the Nintendo Switch and the Steam Link only do 5.1 in PCM, which cannot be passed through HDMI ARC or an optical cable from the TV. They have to go through an AV receiver in order to get surround sound.

Here's my conundrum: I'm not super wild about passing everything (ATV, Switch, Steam Link) through a receiver since I'm going to have very different calibrations for games versus movies and TV, and since that gets output from one cable, every source (to my knowledge) would share one calibration on the screen.

Is there a way to get all three things hooked up to my television so they can all be in their best surround sound while not sharing a common calibration, through a combination of ARC or receivers or something? For reference I'm flexible with what receiver to get, I haven't picked one up, but the television I'm buying soon is the LG55C7 OLED


My way of handling this is i have a receiver with two HDMI outputs (Lets say 1 & 2), connected to 2 of TVs inputs (let's say A & B). I designate input A as my input for games (and use PC icon on LG C7 to make sure low input lag), and B as input for Movies/TV. I use a Harmony remote to dynamically switch between A & B on the TV as well as manage the inputs on the Receiver. It works reasonably as long as you make sure black level output is the same on all devices that share an input (A or B).

Hope that made sense.
 

Stinkles

Clothed, sober, cooperative
All pro motion picture film scanners oversample as standard. The Northlight scanner scans 35mm at 8K and downsamples to 4K: specifically to eliminate aliasing. The Arriscan used to scan at 6K and downsample to 4K, but that might have changed. And if so it'll only be for the better. Even when 2K scans were the norm the scanner itself worked at 4K but downsampled.

Sony is one of the best in the business as far as asset protection is concerned. I can't believe they'd use a sub par scanner. But I haven't seen Labyrinth at 4K (yet) so can't comment as to how the disk looks.



Outside of selling us a new TV every few years, I have yet to hear a good argument for 8K in the home. Even 4K is overkill in a lot of domestic situations.

Well within twenty years you'll have some printable wallpaper screens and cheap 100 inch better than pled applications so you'll want standards to support things like whole wall ui surfaces and live wallpapers and convincing "views"
 
Few things, different calibrations for different devices could be handled via the TV picture modes.

Also, you may want to look into a dual output reciever. Example, I have a Denon 2300W and have both outputs hooked up to my LG B7. One input is PC mode for all my gaming and cable. Other input is standard settings for BluRays & UHD movies. (You lose real cinema with PC mode)

My way of handling this is i have a receiver with two HDMI outputs (Lets say 1 & 2), connected to 2 of TVs inputs (let's say A & B). I designate input A as my input for games (and use PC icon on LG C7 to make sure low input lag), and B as input for Movies/TV. I use a Harmony remote to dynamically switch between A & B on the TV as well as manage the inputs on the Receiver. It works reasonably as long as you make sure black level output is the same on all devices that share an input (A or B).

Hope that made sense.

Two suggestions for a dual-output receiver makes me think that’s the way to go, thank you both. Dez, does the PC setting on the C7 make a noticeable difference versus just regular game mode? Is there anything else it messes with/changes?

How are you planning on managing your content? Going all in on iTunes, Vudu or something else?

I have a sizable VUDU library that I share with my family, and they just came out with an Apple TV app so that’s no issue. However, Apple blew me away by offering free upgrades to 4K and regular pricing instead of $30, so I’m using that an excuse to switch my buying to iTunes. I find VUDU’s library management just atrocious anyway, and I’m surrounded by Apple stuff so compatibility won’t be an issue. So yeah, it’ll be iTunes plus the normal streaming services
 

J_Viper

Member
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/dc-4k-...ra-hd-blu-ray-blu-ray/5932501.p?skuId=5932501

Looks like Best Buy has a DCEU 4K collection for 80 bones, which basically makes each film 20 bucks. That's not too bad a deal.

Apparently the Suicide Squad transfer is not too hot though.

First review of Wonder Woman 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray and regular Blu-ray: http://www.avsforum.com/wonder-woman-ultra-hd-review/

Sounds like both are great.

Will definitely grab this one

I'm still sad about the Steelbook art though
 
I have a sizable VUDU library that I share with my family, and they just came out with an Apple TV app so that’s no issue. However, Apple blew me away by offering free upgrades to 4K and regular pricing instead of $30, so I’m using that an excuse to switch my buying to iTunes. I find VUDU’s library management just atrocious anyway, and I’m surrounded by Apple stuff so compatibility won’t be an issue. So yeah, it’ll be iTunes plus the normal streaming services

Yeah the 4K upgrade is nice. I have a bunch of unused iTunes codes from Blu-rays that I wonder if they'd be eligible for upgrade. Also does anyone know if they're 4K HDR versions? For example I really want to see Wonder Woman in HDR. I am still waiting for price drops on 4K Blu-ray players but I wonder if I buy the iTunes version or redeem the code from the 4K Blu-ray if I purchase that if it would net me an HDR copy on iTunes.

It's feels like there's a lot of unknowns yet with Apple's 4K offerings. But I'm with you that it seems an appealing way to go.
 

Dez

Member
Two suggestions for a dual-output receiver makes me think that’s the way to go, thank you both. Dez, does the PC setting on the C7 make a noticeable difference versus just regular game mode? Is there anything else it messes with/changes?



I have a sizable VUDU library that I share with my family, and they just came out with an Apple TV app so that’s no issue. However, Apple blew me away by offering free upgrades to 4K and regular pricing instead of $30, so I’m using that an excuse to switch my buying to iTunes. I find VUDU’s library management just atrocious anyway, and I’m surrounded by Apple stuff so compatibility won’t be an issue. So yeah, it’ll be iTunes plus the normal streaming services

PC mode lets you pick any of the picture modes while still maintaining the low input lag (in both SDR and HDR as of latest firmware update). I find that it's better than regular game mode as you can use the ISF presets which look more accurate out of the box than the game mode. I haven't noticed any downside to using the PC mode as opposed to regular game mode on a non PC input.
 
Yeah the 4K upgrade is nice. I have a bunch of unused iTunes codes from Blu-rays that I wonder if they'd be eligible for upgrade. Also does anyone know if they're 4K HDR versions? For example I really want to see Wonder Woman in HDR. I am still waiting for price drops on 4K Blu-ray players but I wonder if I buy the iTunes version or redeem the code from the 4K Blu-ray if I purchase that if it would net me an HDR copy on iTunes.

It's feels like there's a lot of unknowns yet with Apple's 4K offerings. But I'm with you that it seems an appealing way to go.

I’ve been hearing a lot of uncertainty on if codes will work, but I’m pretty sure they will? I don’t know if iTunes even distinguished between something you redeemed vs something you bought, though I guess we’ll find out soon enough.

I would imagine that they’re 4K HDR versions, yes, as Apple was beating that HDR drum hard. And competing service VUDU doesn’t even offer just 4K, it’s all with HDR. Apple TV 4K does both HDR10 and Dolby Vision so studios have some flexibility about that to upload, which should help.

We’ll find all this out on the 22nd when the box comes out

PC mode lets you pick any of the picture modes while still maintaining the low input lag (in both SDR and HDR as of latest firmware update). I find that it's better than regular game mode as you can use the ISF presets which look more accurate out of the box than the game mode. I haven't noticed any downside to using the PC mode as opposed to regular game mode on a non PC input.

Ah, so I could use the calibration that I get for my movies and TV shows, apply it to the gaming systems so they still look good, and still get low input lag?
 

Dez

Member
I’ve been hearing a lot of uncertainty on if codes will work, but I’m pretty sure they will? I don’t know if iTunes even distinguished between something you redeemed vs something you bought, though I guess we’ll find out soon enough.

I would imagine that they’re 4K HDR versions, yes, as Apple was beating that HDR drum hard. And competing service VUDU doesn’t even offer just 4K, it’s all with HDR. Apple TV 4K does both HDR10 and Dolby Vision so studios have some flexibility about that to upload, which should help.

We’ll find all this out on the 22nd when the box comes out



Ah, so I could use the calibration that I get for my movies and TV shows, apply it to the gaming systems so they still look good, and still get low input lag?

Unfortunately the PC input has its own "memory" and when you try to apply a calibration to all inputs, it does not change the PC input, which is annoying. You'd have to do the calibration manually on both the PC input and your other Input.
 
Unfortunately the PC input has its own "memory" and when you try to apply a calibration to all inputs, it does not change the PC input, which is annoying. You'd have to do the calibration manually on both the PC input and your other Input.

Got it, I have no problem with that. What receiver do you have for dual output by the way?
 

Dez

Member
Got it, I have no problem with that. What receiver do you have for dual output by the way?

I have the same one as the other poster - denon x2300w.

One caveat to tell you about - if you are using any player that outputs at 24Hz, beware of audio lag because the audio will play through the receiver before the image is displayed on the TV. The C7 in 4k 24P has about 83 ms of lag so it's quite noticeable. You'll have to use a test pattern on youtube to measure it. Thankfully you can set up your receiver to compensate for that lag, but in my case since i'm using an xbox one as my player, i have to switch the delay back down when playing games.
 
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/dc-4k-...ra-hd-blu-ray-blu-ray/5932501.p?skuId=5932501

Looks like Best Buy has a DCEU 4K collection for 80 bones, which basically makes each film 20 bucks. That's not too bad a deal.

Apparently the Suicide Squad transfer is not too hot though.
I was bored and read the Blu-ray.com review recently, and they recommended just watching the regular Blu-ray instead of the 4K one. I think that's the first time I've ever seen that happen.

Will definitely grab this one

I'm still sad about the Steelbook art though
I don't think that the steelbook is really all that bad...but I'm probably getting the Target digibook instead, if I can find one.
 
I have the same one as the other poster - denon x2300w.

One caveat to tell you about - if you are using any player that outputs at 24Hz, beware of audio lag because the audio will play through the receiver before the image is displayed on the TV. The C7 in 4k 24P has about 83 ms of lag so it's quite noticeable. You'll have to use a test pattern on youtube to measure it. Thankfully you can set up your receiver to compensate for that lag, but in my case since i'm using an xbox one as my player, i have to switch the delay back down when playing games.

Oh, interesting. I guess we’ll have to see if this Apple TV does 24Hz, the current model does not.

Can you set lag compensation on a per input basis?
 
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