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Steam In-Home Streaming and Steam Link thread
- Thread starter ashecitism
- Start date
The notepad method doesn't seem to work properly for me anymore for games on non-steam clients. If I try run games through using notepad as a non-steam game it feels and looks like its running at 30 fps even though the display information says its 60 fps. Has anyone else had this problem?
daninthemix
Member
doctorcdcs
Member
It should suspend your PC after a certain interval and put it to sleep (or try to at any rate, I've tried the "wake the pc" feature and it doesnt seem to be compatible with mine)? I'm not too sure since I would normally leave anything like that to the pc side.
Bl@de
Member
I thought UWP doesn't detect controller input and is streaming in Desktop mode. Please tell me you've found a way for proper UWP streaming (60fps and controller support with button prompts, preferably the Xbox One Controller). I've given up on it because you always need third party tools or other problems show up.
daninthemix
Member
You need GLoSC, which I linked to above. It creates a global Xinput (360) controller, so yeah you get button prompts etc.
Still wish Valve would make the Link officially work with UWP.
The TV app? Well really the hard work should be the decoding of the stream, and I would expect smart TVs to have hardware for doing that already.
It's a shame there's not a generic Android Steam Link app from Valve. I have a Sony TV, and I'd love to be able to 4k it. And pack away the Link also.
Bl@de
Member
GLoSC is specifically for the Steam Controller, but does it work with other controllers? I have the SC but I can't get use to the shape (it's very uncomfortable for my hands :-(). I can accept it if it's the only way, but I'd like to use my Xbox One controller (oh you wrote that you used a DS4 controller, so I guess it does)
Is there any good tutorial for GLoSC?
Will definetly try it this weekend. Now I have to download a game to try it ... and all of them are 30GB and more ... -.- Maybe I'll just try it with Fallout Shelter or something like that. No point in downloading 120GB Gears of War 4 to try this.
daninthemix
Member
I used it with a DualShock 4, running FH3 on Steam Link. Button prompts, 60fps and everything.
Bl@de
Member
Fantastic. Will try this.
EDIT: Just read that GLoSC does this as well. Even better.
Btw: I played around with the settings this weekend and realized that unlimited bandwith improved image quality (had it on automatic) and didn't add any noticeable input lag. Performance information shows 18ms with spikes to 25ms every now and then. I recommend everyone to try this. Steam warns about the possibility of increased input lag but my testing with different games showed no real difference (Dragon Age: Inquisition, Risen 3, DOOM, Shadow of Mordor ... all with highest settings and downsampling so it's taxing on the hardware)
ss_lemonade
Member
If you're talking about the Samsung app then no, not the case for me. While it works, quality immediately degrades just a few seconds into the stream and I also have significant input delay when using a bluetooth controller (Dualshock 3). I'm also stuck with Stereo sound for some reason. TV connects via wifi to a router that's about 2 rooms away, which my PC is hard-wired to. Maybe if the TV was wired to my network too, or sitting closer to my router?
I just purchased a Steam Link yesterday after seeing it for $15 and with it in the same room as my TV and over wireless, it is significantly better in terms of quality (very stable 30Mbps) and input lag with my DS3 (just as good as the controller being wired). My only issue with the Steam Link is I can't seem to get a better quality stream than what I'm seeing. If I remove the bitrate limitation, anything past 30 just seems to introduce very bad stuttering. Is this a hardware limitation?
daninthemix
Member
I think 30 is the limit. If you set it to 'Unlimited', it's just doing 30Mbps. Your issue is the wireless - you can get flawless, stutter-free performance wired, but you need to be pretty lucky to get great performance over wireless.
ss_lemonade
Member
I uncapped it using instructions found here
http://mcd1992.blogspot.com/2015/10/removing-steam-link-bandwidth-limit.html
Performance stats do show me going way past 30Mbps and the stream quality shows an improvement but I get a ton of stuttering in return. Basically looks like the Steam Link can't do anything past 35 and I'm not sure if it's a hardware limitation or something. I would imagine my wireless network should be sufficient since my Shield Portable is able to get close to 100Mbps without any issues.
Nabs
Member
What problems are you having?
it will continue game audio but first second of image is frozen.
also, how do i get shadowplay to work with dolphin?
Just set up my Steam Link. The game performance is flawless; constant 60fps, everything looks lovely and super sharp. But the controller lag is unusable - gets up to 1 second lag at times. I'm using powerline wired ethernet - is there anything I can do? I tried messing with various settings but didn't really see any difference in the input lag, just the sharpness of the stream changing. That said there's no explanation of half the settings so no idea if I'm changing the right things together.
Anyone else had insane input lag?
Anyone else had insane input lag?
Snagged the $15 deal from Amazon, finally got it set up yesterday. Haven't played that many games, but they've been lag-free so far. Seems a mite fuzzy on a 4K TV, but it's easy to ignore once you get into gameplay.
Oddly enough, I found it felt too smooth at first... I wasn't used to seeing Tomb Raider run at 60fps on the big screen... it's like my brain is conditioned to expect 30fps when I'm on the couch. Again, it felt fine once you start playing it, it just took a minute to get used to.
I think I'm missing a setting for the 5.1 audio, though.. it's still only pushing through stereo, even though I thought I had it all set up.
Diggler, one of the screens I saw said that if your bandwidth is set too high (like if you force it to maximum bandwidth even if it doesn't need it), it can introduce latency, maybe fiddle with those and see if it makes a difference. I've left bandwidth to Auto.
Oddly enough, I found it felt too smooth at first... I wasn't used to seeing Tomb Raider run at 60fps on the big screen... it's like my brain is conditioned to expect 30fps when I'm on the couch. Again, it felt fine once you start playing it, it just took a minute to get used to.
I think I'm missing a setting for the 5.1 audio, though.. it's still only pushing through stereo, even though I thought I had it all set up.
Diggler, one of the screens I saw said that if your bandwidth is set too high (like if you force it to maximum bandwidth even if it doesn't need it), it can introduce latency, maybe fiddle with those and see if it makes a difference. I've left bandwidth to Auto.
codswallop
Member
I've been getting a lot of hard crashes when streaming games to either of my Steam Links recently - it's extremely annoying. I can play the same games (Doom, Mad Max, Assassin's Creed Unity) on the PC for as long as I want, but as soon as I stream, anywhere between 15-30 minutes the PC hard freezes and I have to press the power button to turn it off/on.
I've tried all the streaming options (Intel GPU, Nvidia GPU, NVFBC, software encoding), reinstalled the Nvidia drivers, disabled my second monitor, etc. With Unity I managed to have it only soft crash the game to desktop which is still annoying but at least I don't need to move. There's nothing in the Steam streaming logs, or the Event Log.
I've tried all the streaming options (Intel GPU, Nvidia GPU, NVFBC, software encoding), reinstalled the Nvidia drivers, disabled my second monitor, etc. With Unity I managed to have it only soft crash the game to desktop which is still annoying but at least I don't need to move. There's nothing in the Steam streaming logs, or the Event Log.
Is your desktop normally stereo? My PC has stereo speakers hooked up so the setting is for stereo. Whenever I play I need to switch the configuration of the audio device from stereo to 5.1. I don't leave it at 5.1 all the time because if I play on the PC I get weird dialog.
Yeah. According to the documentation, it's supposed to be able to override it. And I think I have it set up to do that (I've basically forced 5.1 on both the PC and the Link).
It's working on the Link, because it's sending 5.1 to the receiver (according to the receiver), but sound is only coming out of the stereo left and right speakers.
I think there may be something going on with the connection between the two devices... Isn't the Link supposed to show up under "Devices" in the In-Home Streaming settings screen? Because it doesn't... it's like Steam doesn't know there's anything there, even though it will happily stream to it. I wonder if that's where the audio break is occurring? Is there a separate screen in Steam for setting up the Link other than In-Home Streaming?
AwakenedCloud
Member
Does anyone else use TP-Links or other powerline adapter ethernet solutions? I got my Steam Link set up, but it can't detect my PC.
My setup is a little confusing:
Office: PC, modem -> router -> TP-Link 1
Living Room: TP-Link #2 ->PC
Other Room: TP-Link #3 -> Steam Link
Both TP-Link #2 and TP-Link #3, I assume, are talking directly to TP-Link #1, but perhaps they end up on different "networks?"
My setup is a little confusing:
Office: PC, modem -> router -> TP-Link 1
Living Room: TP-Link #2 ->PC
Other Room: TP-Link #3 -> Steam Link
Both TP-Link #2 and TP-Link #3, I assume, are talking directly to TP-Link #1, but perhaps they end up on different "networks?"
codswallop
Member
I'll have to have a look at mine tonight, I'm not sure TBH.
You may want to look at the changes added to beta build 617, which allows you to specify a PC:
http://steamcommunity.com/app/353380/discussions/0/1353742967806351457/
AwakenedCloud
Member
Thanks! The solution was actually easier than I thought. Despite the wired connection appearing on the Steam link being full green and connected, the TP-Link I was using was disconnected from the network. I unplugged it when I went on vacation, and apparently you have to reestablish the connection once you do that, even though it says you're connected.
But now I'm in the fancy beta version!
Press the button on your controller?
Meteor_of_War
Member
Been trying off and on all afternoon to figure this out, thought I'd ask here.
I'm having a problem getting Dark Souls 3 to run on the Steam Link. I just get a solid white screen with the mouse cursor but can hear the game audio. From what I've researched online the most common fix was to run the game in windowed mode but its not making a difference for me.
Anyone had a similar experience and know how to fix?
I'm having a problem getting Dark Souls 3 to run on the Steam Link. I just get a solid white screen with the mouse cursor but can hear the game audio. From what I've researched online the most common fix was to run the game in windowed mode but its not making a difference for me.
Anyone had a similar experience and know how to fix?
AppleSeason
Member
Is this happening to any of you?
It was fine one week ago, today I updated the nvidia drivers and... surprise. Unless I disable NVFBC, it will look like this.
Edit: Confirmed, it's the latest Nvidia driver. After a rollback, I can use NVFBC again.
Code:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/fGUAHJH.jpg[/img]It was fine one week ago, today I updated the nvidia drivers and... surprise. Unless I disable NVFBC, it will look like this.
Edit: Confirmed, it's the latest Nvidia driver. After a rollback, I can use NVFBC again.
Do you have RivaTuner on? Hitman behaved similarly for me if I tried to stream it while RivaTuner was running.
Meteor_of_War
Member
Yes,I do have Rivatuner enabled. I'm away from home at the moment but will try it later and report back. Thanks for the suggestion.
codswallop
Member
I did a little reading on some of the games with which I was having issues - I had a feeling it might be driver conflicts (some mentioned the xaudio2_7.dll, which seems to be DirectX audio from Windows 7). I used to be on Windows 7, and did the in-place upgrade to Windows 10 on day one. I'd planned on doing a clean install a few weeks after and now two years later still hadn't.
So, I did a clean install of Windows 10, without downloading any of the games again (different drive, but obviously had to do a verify), and now I was able to play the same games for hours without issue. Anecdotally, the games perform better too but just as likely to be my imagination. Definitely think it was a driver issue somewhere, easier to blow it all away though. Only took a couple of hours to install the system and get it back to how I like it.
Yeah, with NVFBC. I actually just thought it was the games I was playing, but disabling it does fix it for me too.
MarkMclovin
Member
If you have multiple Windows 10 accounts but steam is only on one of them, how can you have steam link pick up that account without having to log into it?
Ive set Steam to start up automatically but I still have to log into my Windows account first before it gets picked up.
Secondly WOL, I have all of the correct settings on my wireless device and have turned off fast boot but I still cant get Steam Link to turn on the PC. Cant seem to find any WOL settings in BIOS though but my board does support it appatently. I have an ASUS Z170i Pro Gaming.
Ive set Steam to start up automatically but I still have to log into my Windows account first before it gets picked up.
Secondly WOL, I have all of the correct settings on my wireless device and have turned off fast boot but I still cant get Steam Link to turn on the PC. Cant seem to find any WOL settings in BIOS though but my board does support it appatently. I have an ASUS Z170i Pro Gaming.
Yeah rolling back worked for me too. Seems broken since the Lawbreakers Game Ready Driver.
RazorbackDB
Member
I'm having an issue with controller input, the game loses input for about 10 seconds and then registers all input during that period at once. Video and audio work fine in that period too.
I tried with my wireless Xbox one controller, my wired Xbox 360 controller. Tried switching to the beta client and messing with the controller configuration support. Also tried different games.
I don't know what else to try and everything I find on Google seems to be steam controller specific. Help me GAF. Anyone else had this issue happen before?
Edit: Seems other people are having the same issue with the latest beta and release client, it's up to Valve to fix it.
http://steamcommunity.com/groups/homestream/discussions/1/1457328927830438820/
I tried with my wireless Xbox one controller, my wired Xbox 360 controller. Tried switching to the beta client and messing with the controller configuration support. Also tried different games.
I don't know what else to try and everything I find on Google seems to be steam controller specific. Help me GAF. Anyone else had this issue happen before?
Edit: Seems other people are having the same issue with the latest beta and release client, it's up to Valve to fix it.
http://steamcommunity.com/groups/homestream/discussions/1/1457328927830438820/
AppleSeason
Member
Geforce GameReady Diver 398.94 (24/07/2017) seems to solve the issue, but it is necessary to disable and re enable NVFBC for it to work, or games will run at an excessive speed.
I any case, I'm a bit disappointed. So far I have completed two games on the Link, but not very latency demanding: OxenFree and Inside. With 21 ms latency, Shantae: 1/2 Genie Hero becomes unplayable due to timing jumps. I'm not sure if there's a way of reducing latency even more. Right now:
- To get to the computer, the Link has to go first through the 100 mb switch for the media / gaming rack, then through the cable modem router (gigabit) the computer is hooked to.
- Set to beautiful, 1080p. All the encoders enabled (Works better when NVFBC and hardware are enabled).
- i5 6600k, 8gb ram, GTX 1060 G1 6gb
- Minimum services on the background. Shadowplay and W10's recording software are both disabled.
- Running latest non-beta firmware.
The only ideas I have to try are giving network priority to the steam services, and plugging directly to the router so that it has to go through one less hoop.
I any case, I'm a bit disappointed. So far I have completed two games on the Link, but not very latency demanding: OxenFree and Inside. With 21 ms latency, Shantae: 1/2 Genie Hero becomes unplayable due to timing jumps. I'm not sure if there's a way of reducing latency even more. Right now:
- To get to the computer, the Link has to go first through the 100 mb switch for the media / gaming rack, then through the cable modem router (gigabit) the computer is hooked to.
- Set to beautiful, 1080p. All the encoders enabled (Works better when NVFBC and hardware are enabled).
- i5 6600k, 8gb ram, GTX 1060 G1 6gb
- Minimum services on the background. Shadowplay and W10's recording software are both disabled.
- Running latest non-beta firmware.
The only ideas I have to try are giving network priority to the steam services, and plugging directly to the router so that it has to go through one less hoop.
codswallop
Member
Try setting it to balanced, and only the nVidia and Intel hardware encoders. You don't have the other one. I'd personally just have the nVidia one enabled.
Enabled the stats display on the Steam Link settings and run some network tests to see what's going on.
Enabled the stats display on the Steam Link settings and run some network tests to see what's going on.
AppleSeason
Member
I always have status on. Nothing. I set it to fast and 720p, no switch in the middle. Fast is the same, 720p gets the latency down to 12ms. But sucks.
I guess in a future I will end building a medium specs rig for the living room.
Edit: Also, as weird as it sounds, the excessive speed issue seems to haven with a Dual Shock 4 (bluetooth). It does not happen with a 360 gamepad and knock off receiver.
The Samsung app is out. Not much info yet, they did say final version would work with 4k streaming, but here's what Valve poste:
http://steamcommunity.com/groups/homestream#announcements/detail/1443820649963834564
I love my Steam Link, but if they put this on my Android TV built into the TV I have, then it would be baller
http://steamcommunity.com/groups/homestream#announcements/detail/1443820649963834564
I love my Steam Link, but if they put this on my Android TV built into the TV I have, then it would be baller
FinaruDensetsu
Member
Is there a list of tips to improve performance for wireless streaming on the steamlink here? I'm getting pretty bad lag even though my Vita TV works perfectly on wifi.
Has anyone had any luck diagnosing and fixing "slow network" errors? I just upgraded my wireless to use a Google wi-fi mesh network, and while my PS4 remote play is now working significantly better, my Steam in-home is still terrible. What is the difference between these two things where the network would be fine for one but not the other?
Fifteen bucks on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/...02-20&linkId=e4fe40d3d552655e0dfdcfb4423494e0
Tempted to get it just because. Controller is $35 as well. No wired network though, but I do have a Google Wifi network. Apparently that isn't good enough for the preceding post though haha.
Tempted to get it just because. Controller is $35 as well. No wired network though, but I do have a Google Wifi network. Apparently that isn't good enough for the preceding post though haha.
Has anyone tested software encoding on the host with Ryzen CPU's? On my older rigs I used the Intel iGPU option, with middling results. That's no longer an option with my Ryzen 1800X rig, so I'm curious if people have had good results with software encoding and Ryzen.
I am using the Steam Link as the client FWIW. Both the PC and Steam Link are hardwired to an internal 1Gb network.
I am using the Steam Link as the client FWIW. Both the PC and Steam Link are hardwired to an internal 1Gb network.
There are so many factors that play into wifi performance. You can really only just buy one and see how it works for you. I have 2 Steam links in my house. One is connected to the main TV which is right beyond a wall from our router. No wireless issues there. The other one is in our bedroom which is a bit further away. If I stream to my laptop in my room, the performance is pretty bad, but I setup an extra router (a decently nice Nighthawk) as a wireless bridge so the Steam Link is technically wired. Performance is great there. The extra sensitivity and gain from the router is noticeable I suppose.
LaunchpadMcQ
Banned
So I've been having an issue lately with my Xbox One controller connected via Bluetooth to my Steam Link. I'm not sure if it's a new issue, but I haven't noticed it before. Essentially, when I'm holding down LT and aiming (like in Shadow of Mordor/War), the aiming is totally off and the responsiveness is all over the place. Then, a few seconds later, the controller dosconnects then reconnects. I've tried a few things to fix it and tried searching for a solution, but I've not found anything. Anyone have this issue before?
ChackanKun
Member
I'm really on the fence of whether to buy the Steam Link or not. Even if I'm not thinking of competitve gaming or anything, input lag is something that worries me.
The Steam Link would be connected to the ISP Router (Sagem 3284) which has a long ass cable to the room where the computer is. In here I have a Linksys WRT350N where my computer is connected.
I'm usually satisfied with the PS Vita remote play (PS4) even if trough wireless and only for games like FFXIV or Persona 5 which don't have much action happening at a time. But it does have some input lag and the screen resolution isn't the best.
Also the remote play between PC-PS4 (all wired) isn't perfect, even if better than the PS Vita.
Is this a safe bet? Will I be tossing money to the garbage bin?
The Steam Link would be connected to the ISP Router (Sagem 3284) which has a long ass cable to the room where the computer is. In here I have a Linksys WRT350N where my computer is connected.
I'm usually satisfied with the PS Vita remote play (PS4) even if trough wireless and only for games like FFXIV or Persona 5 which don't have much action happening at a time. But it does have some input lag and the screen resolution isn't the best.
Also the remote play between PC-PS4 (all wired) isn't perfect, even if better than the PS Vita.
Is this a safe bet? Will I be tossing money to the garbage bin?