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Project Cars 2 |OT| Buggy Racing At The Four Seasons

danowat

Banned
I just played a nice online race in PC1. GT3 class, Laguna Seca, 6 Rounds. I was not too bad, finished the qualifying at 8th (out of 12) and then the race starts. My enemies immediatly crashed into me, spinning me around before I could even cross the start/finish line.

I said "well, the race is not over yet", so I continued. Pressed my way all the way up to 7th place and then the usual shit happened. Guy I just overtook slammed into me with full force, pushing me way off track, destroying all hopes for a decent finishing position. I immedialty stopped the game and deciced to shelve it for good.

Is the online component of PC2 SIGNIFICANTLY better of does this shit still happen all the time?

Still happens, at least in the servers at the lower end of the safety rating spectrum, I'd imagine it gets better as you rise, and hope that someone has made a server with the right safety rating and track/car combo.

Without the additional 160hp hybrid power, the LaFerrari does about 790hp. When you get GT Sport, can you try a production car with similar power and put non-slicks on it(Sport Medium or Soft would be the equivalent), turn TC off and check how out it compares?
The Aston Martin One-77 (750hp) would be the closest thing in that game, I think I just saw there is a LaFerrari in GTS actually, I was just looking in the wrong homologation group.
Maybe report back, I'm curious what you think.

Its not just the LaFerrari, plenty of other cars exhibit the same problem, it's the first sim I've played that has had this issue, but I am prepared to except that it's simply due to using a pad, there is something strange around the way the pad and steering work at the low end of the movement range, and when the steering wheel is returned to centre.
 
tLDYxhC.png


Hotlap Challenge #3


Formula Renault 3.5 @ Donington Park National

donr7oq9.gif


Run it however you'd like. All platforms/skill levels/aids/controllers are welcome. If you'd like to do a video or whatever, great.

Have fun, and good luck!

----------------------
Granted I haven't driven even close to all the cars, but this FR 3.5 is the best car I've driven in the game thus far. When the FFB, and chassis and tire physics are all working in harmony, PC2 can deliver a car that stands toe-to-toe with any sim out there. Here's your proof.

The combo is a good match giving such an awesome feeling of increased downforce the higher the speeds get.

My lap was not the greatest with messy sectors 2 and 3, but unlike the last challenge, at least I'll have plenty room for improvement during the week!
----------------------

Leaderboard web page

"Time Trial" mode.


1. 0:54.983 - markao (video) // PC, no aids, default setup
2. 0:55.321 - Betta Lines // no aids, default setup
3. 0:55.380 - seattle6418 // HEAVY setup changes
4. 0:56.199 - Big Takeover (video) // PC, wheel, no aids, default setup
5. 0:56.420 - TylerDurden4321 (video) // PC, wheel, no aids, custom setup
6. 0:56.459 - Makikou
7. 0:56.543 - turtlesbonanza (Tails) // PC, wheel, authentic assists, custom setup
8. 0:57.100 - FrankCanada97 (pic) // PC, gamepad, authentic assists on manual with auto-clutch and custom setup
9. 0:58.340 - Danowat // PS4, pad, TC, sc, abs, default stable setup
10. 0:58.060 - Uiki (pic) // PC - Gamepad, assists off, automatic clutch on, changed steering ratio and tyre pressure
11. 0:58.339 - ReDelicious // PC, Wheel, Authentic assists, upped rear downforce one notch through the race engineer
12. 0:58.559 - Dave_6 // PC, wheel, authentic assists, default setup
13. 1:00.459 - vacantseas // PC, controller, authentic aids
14. 1:05.958 - microtubule // PC, no aids, controller

----------------------
Feel free to participate and/or update your times from our previous challenges

Hotlap Challenge #1


Hotlap Challenge #2
 

Onemic

Member
It feels like the driving line in this game isn't correct. Either that or playing with a controller doesnt let your car turn all the way.
 
It feels like the driving line in this game isn't correct. Either that or playing with a controller doesnt let your car turn all the way.
Most likely this is to do with the speed sensitivity setting in the gamepad options - it prevents you from applying too much steering lock the faster you move (because abrupt steering inputs unsettle a car more severely at speed). If you reduce this value, you'll be able to steer more, but you'll also need to be more precise and smoother.
 

Makikou

Member
Yeah idk what magic there is going on but apparently everyone carries more speed on the downhill part even though I get a better exit off T1.
 

Onemic

Member
Most likely this is to do with the speed sensitivity setting in the gamepad options - it prevents you from applying too much steering lock the faster you move (because abrupt steering inputs unsettle a car more severely at speed). If you reduce this value, you'll be able to steer more, but you'll also need to be more precise and smoother.

This was the problem, thanks. My setting was at 100. Lowered it to 85 and I went from always getting 10th place or lower in qualifying to getting 1st place on my first try.
 
Finally bought myself a wheel. Should be here later this week. Just dipping my toes in with an entry level wheel, but I've always wanted to play a sim-leaning game with a proper wheel. Can't wait!
 

terrible

Banned
I think today I found the worst car in the game: The Aston Martin Vulcan. What a turd. It doesn't make any sense at all.

That thing in VR messes with my head. I keep expecting my wheel to be shaped like the one in the car in-game. Random and weird but true.
 
I'm fairly certain I can do ~56.1 ...but I'm gonna surrender here.

- 56.420 (video: https://youtu.be/u4hEgHTIcZo)

Also... that setup saving. Boy.
If you just save it to "loose", it'll reset later, then I saved it to an extra file and overwrote everytime I changed something, then the game changed back to default out of nowhere, when I wanted to reload my track-specific setup, I couldn't enter the track sepcific setups from the load menu, so out of time trial, back to time trial and then I could load it. Saved it to "all tracks" from then on. Shortly after the game forgets the setup again and goes back to the default setup, I want to reload it and my file is not under "all tracks" (I actually had 2 files in there, but only loose and stable show up). No, my setup wasn't deleted, it just didn't show up. I had to go out of time trial and to "private session", there to reload the setup.
That's gotto be the messiest menu code ever written.

Finally bought myself a wheel. Should be here later this week. Just dipping my toes in with an entry level wheel, but I've always wanted to play a sim-leaning game with a proper wheel. Can't wait!
Which one did you get now?
 

markao

Member
3rd. I can be ahead heading to downhill but at the bottom everyone else carries more speed with same wings/ride height so idk whats going on.
First do the obvious thing, check your pedal travel to make sure it is 100%.

If not the issue, check RPM on vids, if visible. When it comes to turn one, a lot of people turn in early (normal line) because you feel you take that corner the quickest. But if you take a later apex (turn in later, hence the pit exit line), you can be far more aggressive (earlier) with your gas pedal out of the 1st corner (almost before hitting apex) and as result you gain time after exit, more than you loose in that corner.
 
I'm fairly certain I can do ~56.1 ...but I'm gonna surrender here.

- 56.420 (video: https://youtu.be/u4hEgHTIcZo)

Also... that setup saving. Boy.
If you just save it to "loose", it'll reset later, then I saved it to an extra file and overwrote everytime I changed something, then the game changed back to default out of nowhere, when I wanted to reload my track-specific setup, I couldn't enter the track sepcific setups from the load menu, so out of time trial, back to time trial and then I could load it. Saved it to "all tracks" from then on. Shortly after the game forgets the setup again and goes back to the default setup, I want to reload it and my file is not under "all tracks" (I actually had 2 files in there, but only loose and stable show up). No, my setup wasn't deleted, it just didn't show up. I had to go out of time trial and to "private session", there to reload the setup.
That's gotto be the messiest menu code ever written.


Which one did you get now?

Just the Thrustmater T150. It's not the best, but it does half force feedback and for sub-$200 it seems to be rated pretty well - and is on sale for $150 right now. For this being my first wheel I didnt want to spend a whole lot more than that, and I could have got something a bit better for around $250 or $275 but I'll see how this goes first. Either way it'll be an upgrade over the controller.
 
How are the engineer and spotter compared to Crew Chief?
They're generic Captain Obvious, but in general it's better than nothing.
Just the Thrustmater T150. It's not the best, but it does half force feedback and for sub-$200 it seems to be rated pretty well - and is on sale for $150 right now. For this being my first wheel I didnt want to spend a whole lot more than that, and I could have got something a bit better for around $250 or $275 but I'll see how this goes first. Either way it'll be an upgrade over the controller.

15 years ago I bought a cheap garbage FFB wheel and it wasn't even worth that. Then 5 years ago, I went in from the other side from a console point of view and bought the T500 for... 480€(not sure anymore). I liked it, but turned out, after 500 hours I developed some understanding and taste in FFB and I actually like my cheaper TX more (It was an "ok, fuck it, I wanna play Forza with a wheel and it's 238€ in a sale"-buy). Price isn't everything, you have to like the feel of it Many people prefer the T150 over a G29 - just based on the smoothness. Then again some really really fast guys with thousands of hours of racing on their back don't want to upgrade from a G27.


First do the obvious thing, check your pedal travel to make sure it is 100%.
If not the issue, check RPM on vids, if visible. When it comes to turn one, a lot of people turn in early (normal line) because you feel you take that corner the quickest. But if you take a later apex (turn in later, hence the pit exit line), you can be far more aggressive (earlier) with your gas pedal out of the 1st corner (almost before hitting apex) and as result you gain time after exit, more than you loose in that corner.
You can even kinda see that a late apex is faster:
donningtonazy2g.png

I still suck at doing it.
 

Dave_6

Member
I tried your fast lap setup Tyler; you're obviously an alien cause I couldn't make it through the first corner with it. Too loose for me :p

I seriously need a better wheel though. Using the Jack Spade files with this game make the gears even more obvious (G27). I feel like I'm fighting the wheel more than the Renault in this time trial.
 
I seriously need a better wheel though. Using the Jack Spade files with this game make the gears even more obvious (G27). I feel like I'm fighting the wheel more than the Renault in this time trial.
Have you tried running a much lower gain? Less feedback can be better sometimes!
 

Bollocks

Member
Damn that second to last corner is so sketchy, sometimes it works out ok, sometimes/most of the times I spin out, idk how you guys can take that corner that fast :/
Maybe it's due to the controller.
 
I tried your fast lap setup Tyler; you're obviously an alien cause I couldn't make it through the first corner with it. Too loose for me :p
Actually I get terribly unsmooth when try to be fast. Wouldn't be surprised if PC2 saved my setup online wrong. One general thing I'd recommend is upping the downforce.

I tried the Jack Spade files and it feels like forcing a slow bump oriented FFB on a force simulation not meant for that. I'd recommend using the RAW flavour, keep gain at 100, set fx and tone to your liking and map +/- volume to two buttons and control how strong you want your FFB in each car with those two buttons. By lowering gain, you're reducing the overall amount of information in your ffb. On a Logitech wheel the "informative" ffb flavor might be superior to raw though, maybe try that too.
 
Speaking of crazy setups, i just did a 55.380 with a bunch of weird changes.

I don´t know if it´s just a matter of preferences or if i did find something that made the car faster.

I was later on up two tents on that lap, so i can see the usual suspects going for a 54.9 if the challenge stays open.

It really is a fun car. We should do a race in it.
 
Speaking of crazy setups, i just did a 55.380 with a bunch of weird changes.

I don´t know if it´s just a matter of preferences or if i did find something that made the car faster.
I did a .322 on default while watching your ghost - you gained a bunch of ground on the straights, so I'm guessing you're running slightly lower downforce? (Your final sector is still faster, which is where top speed makes the biggest difference.)
 
6/16 if i´m not mistaken, also 25-30mm ride height, taller gears and a bunch of suspension changes that i guess it´s best to just load the setup to see...

I´ll give it another go tomorrow, i´ll remember to post the most significant changes for the setup talk.

Those formula cars can feel vastly different with the changes. Only question is, if they are faster or just more comfortable to drive it.
 

Mascot

Member
The Spotter I found better than last Crew Chief version I used. Engie is useless except for a few messages.

I've just recently started using CC again (I used it on PS4 but didn't get around to setting it up on the PC for a while) and found the spotter to be excellent, even on the default detection settings. There's a choice of around half a dozen different voices now too, which is a nice touch. And one with a southern drawl for NASCAR, I guess..! Anyway, the variety is nice. I like the swearing and personalisation in CC too - it really adds to the effect when you are called by your real name. Being able to ask spoken questions about fuel load, tyre wear, damage, placement etc etc is a real bonus of course - it makes it all the more immersive. I'm guessing the pCARS 2 in-built version has none of these benefits?

I just worked out how to get CC through the Rift's earphones while having main game audio coming through my 5.1 system, which not only helps with clarity but also adds to the immersion. It's like getting the feed piped into your 'helmet' just like real life. Again, I'm guessing this wouldn't be possible with pCARS 2's bulit-in app.

Sounds like I'll be sticking with CC when I eventually get pCARS 2 again then.
 

fresquito

Member
Those having problems saving setups, do you, by any chance, have Steam Cloud activated? If so, could you deactivate and see if the problems persist? I don't have setup issues and I have Steam Cloud deactivated.
 

spyshagg

Should not be allowed to breed
The amount of bugs in this game is unbelievable. Here are the ones I caught in my first hour.


Algarve final corner: - If you do it has you are supposed to, the lap is invalidated.

Invalidated laps: - If you earn an invalidated lap anywhere in the last sector, no matter which corner, the next lap also becomes invalidated. This should only happen in the last corner before the next lap begins.

Invalidated laps pt.2: - Some green patches are allowed, some aren't. Whats the criteria???

Pit lane speed warning sign : - Some tracks ideal line cuts the pitlane entry white lines which you are allowed to do. Which means you see the Pit lane warning pop up every single lap on some circuits.

Slow down warnings: - Another guy forces you to touch the green patch and as a reward for his mistake, you have to slow down.

Slow down warnings pt.2: - After completing a legal overtake, the other guy literally rams my rear end. I manage to keep on track but he spins out. I am of course rewarded a penalty to "give position back". I had to wait 20 seconds for the other guy to pass me.

Slow down warnings pt.3: - There was some tiny piece of a bumper laying on the track after a blind corner. I hit the tiny bumper and am rewarded with another "slow down to avoid a penalty". Or was it "invalidated lap"? . One of the two I cant remember.

Auto pilot on rolling starts: - The auto pilots ram each other as they always do in Project cars, and you are rewarded with a penalty. This one was brilliant.

Lack of race info once qualy is over: - No way to know how many laps the race will have. The preset setups on the Super7 filled my car with 35L of fuel when the race only needed 7 or 8L.



These are only the ones I remembered. This was on just one hour of gameplay. They are all in plain sight
 

TJP

Member
The amount of bugs in this game is unbelievable. Here are the ones I caught in my first hour.
How about playing and enjoying the game? :)

There are reports on Reddit regarding bugs introduced with patch 2.0 and 2.0.0.1. One is to do with AI all pilling up and the other is an issue with the various aids turning on and off (e.g. TC, ABS, SC).
 

Mascot

Member
How about playing and enjoying the game? :)

I never did get a chance to reply to that one as the thread was closed, but obviously I can't play a game that I don't own.
And I won't own it until I know the key bugs are resolved.
And I won't know that without patch notes.

Which was kinda the whole point of my original post.
 

spyshagg

Should not be allowed to breed
How about playing and enjoying the game? :)

There are reports on Reddit regarding bugs introduced with patch 2.0 and 2.0.0.1. One is to do with AI all pilling up and the other is an issue with the various aids turning on and off (e.g. TC, ABS, SC).

If my post was about enjoying I would talk about the joys. As you can see I posted about the bugs, not the joys.
 

fresquito

Member
The amount of bugs in this game is unbelievable. Here are the ones I caught in my first hour.


Algarve final corner: - If you do it has you are supposed to, the lap is invalidated.

Invalidated laps: - If you earn an invalidated lap anywhere in the last sector, no matter which corner, the next lap also becomes invalidated. This should only happen in the last corner before the next lap begins.

Invalidated laps pt.2: - Some green patches are allowed, some aren't. Whats the criteria???

Pit lane speed warning sign : - Some tracks ideal line cuts the pitlane entry white lines which you are allowed to do. Which means you see the Pit lane warning pop up every single lap on some circuits.

Slow down warnings: - Another guy forces you to touch the green patch and as a reward for his mistake, you have to slow down.

Slow down warnings pt.2: - After completing a legal overtake, the other guy literally rams my rear end. I manage to keep on track but he spins out. I am of course rewarded a penalty to "give position back". I had to wait 20 seconds for the other guy to pass me.

Slow down warnings pt.3: - There was some tiny piece of a bumper laying on the track after a blind corner. I hit the tiny bumper and am rewarded with another "slow down to avoid a penalty". Or was it "invalidated lap"? . One of the two I cant remember.

Auto pilot on rolling starts: - The auto pilots ram each other as they always do in Project cars, and you are rewarded with a penalty. This one was brilliant.

Lack of race info once qualy is over: - No way to know how many laps the race will have. The preset setups on the Super7 filled my car with 35L of fuel when the race only needed 7 or 8L.



These are only the ones I remembered. This was on just one hour of gameplay. They are all in plain sight
Only two of those are bugs. They are problematic, but not bugs.
 
Those formula cars can feel vastly different with the changes. Only question is, if they are faster or just more comfortable to drive it.
This is the million dollar question indeed. There is a fundamental difference between setup that makes a driver more comfortable/confident (and therefore faster relative to their normal pace) and setup that literally makes the car itself faster (improving the time of the theoretical fastest possible lap).

There is overlap between the two of course - some of the changes to improve driveability could be the very same changes that an all-powerful computer would make to increase the fundamental possible lap time.

Only two of those are bugs. They are problematic, but not bugs.
I was just about to say that (actually I was gonna say only one of them is a bug).
 
This is the million dollar question indeed. There is a fundamental difference between setup that makes a driver more comfortable/confident (and therefore faster relative to their normal pace) and setup that literally makes the car itself faster (improving the time of the theoretical fastest possible lap).

There is overlap between the two of course - some of the changes to improve driveability could be the very same changes that an all-powerful computer would make to increase the fundamental possible lap time.


I was just about to say that (actually I was gonna say only one of them is a bug).

You gotta see this, it´s all your fault: :p

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0a5vplSGBw0

I remember seeing the time posted when the event was finished and thinking "no way"

The Neogaf hotlap challenge had an impact on the whole community event... hehehe
 

Dave_6

Member
Raw FFB does feel better than the Jack Spade files on my G27. Still not happy with the actual feedback from the tires though; granted I am using a low end wheel. The Renault 3.5 has to be the lowest grip, loosest open wheel car with wings I've ever driven with a sim. At least with the default setup.
 

GHG

Member
You gotta see this, it´s all your fault: :p

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0a5vplSGBw0

I remember seeing the time posted when the event was finished and thinking "no way"

The Neogaf hotlap challenge had an impact on the whole community event... hehehe

Fucking magestic lap.

It's interesting to see that he takes some of these corners completely differently to how I normally would. That's where the 11 second difference is I guess :/
 
That was great! :D

As I said in an earlier post, I expected him to get it. A couple of days before the event closed, it was clear that he was on track at the same time - as I kept seeing the WR getting knocked down on the timing box. We exchanged records a couple of times, but then he found another gear and it looked like he really started taking it seriously.

I checked the standings with a couple of hours to go, saw he was getting very close, and still trying.

Then I saw the time change right at the end - I knew it must have been tight, but I didn't realise it was his very last go, that's amazing!

Raw FFB does feel better than the Jack Spade files on my G27. Still not happy with the actual feedback from the tires though; granted I am using a low end wheel. The Renault 3.5 has to be the lowest grip, loosest open wheel car with wings I've ever driven with a sim. At least with the default setup.
That's a surprising observation - to me it feels spot on, incredible grip. If I had to guess one way or the other, I'd guess it has slightly too much if anything.
 

Mascot

Member
Then I saw the time change right at the end - I knew it must have been tight, but I didn't realise it was his very last go, that's amazing!

Yeah, the pressure that must have added makes that lap even more impressive.

There's a nice rivalry brewing there. He even called you 'Beta', as in "I'm the alpha, muthafukkkkkahhhh..!".

:p
 
So I know this is the PC2 thread, and there's a dedicated wheel or possible general sim racer thread, but since I bought a wheel and it should be arriving later this week, what should I be looking for when setting it up?

Obviously download the drivers, set the wheel up in-game, but as for force feedback and general feel while driving, I know a lot of that is personal preference, but what's the best way to set up a wheel for a game like this?
 

fresquito

Member
So I know this is the PC2 thread, and there's a dedicated wheel or possible general sim racer thread, but since I bought a wheel and it should be arriving later this week, what should I be looking for when setting it up?

Obviously download the drivers, set the wheel up in-game, but as for force feedback and general feel while driving, I know a lot of that is personal preference, but what's the best way to set up a wheel for a game like this?
What wheel?

In any case, the setup is pretty easy. As you said, install drivers and all, then do the regular calibration proccess the game asks you to do. Since this is your first wheel, it's going to be hard to know whether it's working as it should or not. I don't know if you've played with any wheel before, and what wheel, but expectations vs wheel quality vs configuration is a hard equation.

You can try Jack Spade's FFB files, if you want to go with an advanced configuration that's easy to use.
 
What wheel?

In any case, the setup is pretty easy. As you said, install drivers and all, then do the regular calibration proccess the game asks you to do. Since this is your first wheel, it's going to be hard to know whether it's working as it should or not. I don't know if you've played with any wheel before, and what wheel, but expectations vs wheel quality vs configuration is a hard equation.

You can try Jack Spade's FFB files, if you want to go with an advanced configuration that's easy to use.

Thrustmaster T150. This is my first wheel, and I've not used one in the past, so really no expectations going in, other than wheels are better than controllers. I'm sure a lot of it will be trial and error, and I have found info on Jack Spade's FFB files, so I might go that route from the start.
 

Mascot

Member
Thrustmaster T150. This is my first wheel, and I've not used one in the past, so really no expectations going in, other than wheels are better than controllers. I'm sure a lot of it will be trial and error, and I have found info on Jack Spade's FFB files, so I might go that route from the start.

Make sure the wheel AND pedals are FIRMLY fixed to something solid. If either move around, even a little bit, it's a killer. Especially the pedals.
 
So I know this is the PC2 thread, and there's a dedicated wheel or possible general sim racer thread, but since I bought a wheel and it should be arriving later this week, what should I be looking for when setting it up?

Obviously download the drivers, set the wheel up in-game, but as for force feedback and general feel while driving, I know a lot of that is personal preference, but what's the best way to set up a wheel for a game like this?
Make sure the wheel is set to 1080 degrees of rotation in the drivers. (It doesn't have to be 1080, but it might as well be.)

T150-c3.png


The gain settings page should look something like this, but I'd suggest reducing the damper slider to zero. I think I'd put the spring slider to zero too (although it might not do anything in PC2, I can't remember).

PC2 has a very straightforward wheel calibration - it asks you to turn your wheel all the way in one direction, and then 90 degrees off centre, and you're set - if you've done it correctly, this should give you a 1:1 representation of steering rotation in the game. Every car is already calibrated to respond appropriately to this kind of 1:1 steering, so you should not need any kind of steering sensitivity changes. The game should automatically set the sensitivity/deadzone values for your wheel, i.e. no steering deadzone, and 50% sensitivity on the pedals. You can give the pedals a bit of deadzone if they feel a bit too spiky at the bottom - the HUD shows your brake and throttle inputs (around the rev-counter), so you should be able to gauge how the pedals are responding.

I would simply set the force feedback to the default 'Raw' setting, and play around with the gain slider depending on how strong you want it. Less strength might help in the beginning. As you've never used a wheel before, it will probably feel pretty odd for a while - but there's not much point in playing around with detailed settings until you've had a ton of hours practice.

[edit] actually, the T150 might have different presets for pedal sensitivity - 50% is good for a linear response across the pedal throw, but the T150 pedals are really light, so they might work better with lower sensitivity.
 
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