• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

Status
Not open for further replies.

Zyzyxxz

Member
Any opinion on the Dx 40mm Macro lens? I want to take some close up of my newborn daughter. I have a D7000. N

Personally I would pick up the 50mm 1.8 since you can autofocus with it or just save up for the 60mm. It's similar in size, not a pancake like the Canon 40mm and at that focal point for a macro you might cast a shadow on the subject too but that's subjective to how you are using it.
 

jmdajr

Member
Personally I would pick up the 50mm 1.8 since you can autofocus with it or just save up for the 60mm. It's similar in size, not a pancake like the Canon 40mm and at that focal point for a macro you might cast a shadow on the subject too but that's subjective to how you are using it.
Yeah I have the 35mm Dx 1.8 already.
 

Falch

Member
I guess this thread may be as good a thread as any other to ask, but for learning how to use Lightroom for someone with no prior experience with the software, would this book be a good introduction?

I'd recommend Scott Kirby's Lightroom book, currently using it since I've recently started using Lightroom. It's a great, userfriendly book that starts right with the basics.
 

Damaged

Member
I read that on mutiple reviews. Longer length mire convinient on the macros

Personally I would stick with your 35mm DX, there is only 5mm difference in focal length and its got a few extra stops on the lens as well. Not sure what sort of shots your after but the 35mm will work well enough with a set of extension tubes for allot less money than the 40mm.

This was with a 35mm dx and a 12mm tube

 

jmdajr

Member
Personally I would stick with your 35mm DX, there is only 5mm difference in focal length and its got a few extra stops on the lens as well. Not sure what sort of shots your after but the 35mm will work well enough with a set of extension tubes for allot less money than the 40mm.

This was with a 35mm dx and a 12mm tube

Hmmmm, extension tubes
 

VNZ

Member
Went out to get an EF 24-70 f/2.8L. Got home with a Sony RX100 instead... :) (Hell, the 24-70 is nowhere to be found now, the II hasn't arrived yet, and I don't really trust the new Tamron VC one to be worth the investment yet)

First impression is great. Nice metal feel, awesome screen, good enough controls, AMAZING sensor and lens for a camera this small. First great Sony product I've bought since the PS2.

Too bad RAW support isn't available in Lightroom yet.

Also, I need to read the manual to understand the "MR" (Memory Recall) thing, which I hope is as useful as the Cx modes on a Canon body.

Plus: I finally got around to get a super-fine brush and paint the Canon logo on my 5D Mark II black. Too big and garish on logo the big bodies. Also put up some new stuff on flickr and 500px.
 

Ember128

Member
So I guess those nikon extension tubes don't work with dx lenses :/
Kenko makes amazing and inexpensive extension tubes. I'm almost positive it's the exact same extension tubes as the Canon brand ones. Kind of like how a lot of Nikon's DX Lenses are actually Tamron lenses.

The greater the focal length on the lens, the further back you can be with extension tubes/the more sections you can put on. That's the main thing.
 

Blackhead

Redarse
Review: Nokia 808 PureView
dpreview said:
goldaward.png
 

Pachimari

Member
Took this photography last week with my Canon 60D but I'm just a beginner at photographing but I were quite happy with it:

4W17tl.jpg


Though, I should definitely practice more, probably also with the different settings and modes but for now I just wanna take pictures with my 2 lenses and the basic modes. There seems to be a lot of noise around the tiger, in the background.
 

mrkgoo

Member
Took this photography last week with my Canon 60D but I'm just a beginner at photographing but I were quite happy with it:

4W17tl.jpg


Though, I should definitely practice more, probably also with the different settings and modes but for now I just wanna take pictures with my 2 lenses and the basic modes. There seems to be a lot of noise around the tiger, in the background.

Looks nice!

Can't see the noise at this size. A hint that I wish I learned a lot earlier - white things should be white! If they're kinda gray, then you've under exposed.

Simple enough hint, and obvious at first, but it was a revelation for me.
 

Antiwhippy

the holder of the trombone
I'm not even into the exposing stuff yet, I don't even know how to change the exposure. I'm gonna play with it though.

Look at how to change the ISO on your camera, lower the shutter speed or widening the aperture.

Exposure is just letting more light in.
 

Ignis

Member
I've always wondered if anyone shoots with GXR. The idea is neat but I've never seen a person shooting with it -- seems even more scarce than Pentax shooters...

GXR has quietly become my main camera, along with the M mount module and the wonderful 50mm C-Sonnar from Zeiss.

It handles like a charm and the peaking focus mode (I use Mode 2) allows me to focus even faster than with my M8, except in low light. It also compensates for the lens' biggest weakness, as the C-Sonnar is known for front-focusing wide open on rangefinders.

I also have the 50mm macro A12 module, which I scarcely use.
 

jmdajr

Member
You can get them off ebay with the electric contacts in the tubes pretty cheap. As there is no glass in them I didn't see the need to spend allot of money.

I think it was these ones I got and they work fine with my 35mm dx lens (and all my other DX lenses)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Focu...sion_Tubes&hash=item1c1cd655cb#ht_7017wt_1110

I ended up getting the 40mm micro DX lens but thinking of returning it. You just have to be way to close to use it.

I'm still trying to understand how those macro/extension tubes work though. What kind of math do I have to do to get 1:1 image?
Say I want to use my 55-300 lens... Can I make that into a macro?
 

phisheep

NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
Magnification ratio = (extension tube length +((lens focal length)**2/((subject distance)-(focal length))))/focal length

... or at least that's as close as I can get it from the instructions that came with my Kenco tubes ...

Can't vouch for the maths, but the table derived from it seems to work. Upshot is if you want to do 1:1 macro with a 55-300 lens you'll want to be at the 55mm end and stick 50mm or more of extension tubes behind it. It works for me.
 

jmdajr

Member
Magnification ratio = (extension tube length +((lens focal length)**2/((subject distance)-(focal length))))/focal length

... or at least that's as close as I can get it from the instructions that came with my Kenco tubes ...

Can't vouch for the maths, but the table derived from it seems to work. Upshot is if you want to do 1:1 macro with a 55-300 lens you'll want to be at the 55mm end and stick 50mm or more of extension tubes behind it. It works for me.

I see. (yikes) I'm just trying to think of an alternative to this 40mm lens. It's pretty nice but damn you just have to be so close and I probably need a flash ring. But the 85mm one is $450 instead is $280. I would get VR though.

I should probably just go to a pro camera store and mess around with several options.
 

jmdajr

Member
Shooting Macros Section 3 – The Math
Ok this makes sense to me, (then again I have dx lenses)

Extension tubes or Bellows: To calculate the effect of a set of tubes you will first need the magnification specifications of the normal lens you will add to the tubes. (Not a macro lens)

Formula: Mm = ((ML x FL)+Ex) / FL
Mm: magnification in macro
ML: magnification of the Lens
FL: focal length of lens
Ex: length of extension tubes

So for the first example we’ll use the Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM which has a maximum magnification of 0.15x alone. We will add 62mm of extension tubes to this lens.

1.39 = ((0.15 x 50) + 62) /50 in other words the lens can achieve 1.39x life sized. So you will get a little better than life sized with this setup.

Also I assume the magnification of the lens is calculated at the low end for a zoom? It's 0.28 for the 55-300 dx lens.
 

phisheep

NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
Also I assume the magnification of the lens is calculated at the low end for a zoom? It's 0.28 for the 55-300 dx lens.

No, you'll calculate it at whatever you have the zoom set to I think, so it'll be different at 300mm to what it is at 55mm (but also the focal length will be different as well).
 
Ok guys. I'm now ready to, very sadly, put away my 35mm film cameras (well just finding an nice shelve for them, I won't part with my m2 and FM2). Since I don't have a darkroom anymore, I just don't have the will to find the place, time and money to process film...

I'm looking for something (relatively) small, fast, quick and reliable, with a fast 50mm equivalent lens (maybe also a ~90mm equivalent), the ability to take somewhat good quality videos and basic manual or semi-auto operating (basically, I'd just need aperture priority and I'd wish for manual focus with a nice handling feel to it, none of those loose and infinite turning rings you can find on some AF lenses).

I don't use and won't use zooms. I've never really used a digital camera, nor autofocus...

After doing some research online I've found my two main contestants:

Olympus OM-D-EM5
+ small !
+ configurable
+ (apparently) quite fast
+ good jpgs (I might turn to raw in the long run but not right now)
+ apparently good quality video
+ excellent IS
+ silent ?
+ 2 lenses that seem good for my needs : The Panasonic 25 f/1.4 and the Olympus 45 f/1.8

- small and somewhat awkward handling (I don't feel that comfortable holding it, I've yet to try the grip, but it's fucking expensive and the bottom half would be useless to me)
- EVF (I don't know if I can get used to this shit and the lag is killing me)
- no built-in flash
- expensive, especially if I need the grip


Pentax K5
+ Relatively cheap compared to the Olympus
+ Handling feels good
+ optical viewfinder, yay
+ built-in flash

- Pentax (I'm usually a Nikon guy when it comes to Reflex)
- IS not as good as the olympus
- screen not as good as the olympus
- a bit too big
- no idea what lenses I would put on it

What say you camera GAF ?
 

phisheep

NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
Ok guys. I'm now ready to, very sadly, put away my 35mm film cameras ....

Hi there Baron. Strange to see you outside of a Rugby thread.

Coming off film I think you'd find EVF a killer, it certainly is for me. Plus, autofocus is a pest and takes some getting used to. But it doesn't fucking matter whether the screen is slightly better/worse on a camera - you're not getting the camera for what you see on the screen anyhow.

Out of the two you mention, I suspect you would be way more comfortable with the Pentax (and I've a few friends who swear by them - me, I'm a Canon man by habit more than anything else).

Would you be comfortable with a rangefinder (as opposed to SLR/EVF?) - might open your options a bit.
 
Hey there! I don't post much (the tough life of a lawyer...), but outside rugby I roam mainly around movie and a few game threads.

Thanks for your reply. I think I'll just head to a store to get a better feel.

Basically, if I had the money I'd head straight for a leica but alas...
 

VNZ

Member
Basically, if I had the money I'd head straight for a leica but alas...
Have you looked at the Fujifilm X-Pro1? It's pretty spectacular as a "poor" man's Leica, and it has the lenses you request (35mm f/1.4 and 60mm f/2.4, on an APS-C sensor). Also, there's a 1st party Leica M-adaptor so you can eventually start buying those Leica lenses in anticipation for a future move to a Leica proper.

FiCGg.jpg
 

phisheep

NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
Thought of suggesting that to the Baron, but backed out after reading DPReview

With its rangefinder-inspired looks and prominent manual focus rings on each lens, you might expect the X-Pro1 to be an excellent camera for manual focus work. Unfortunately this isn't the case at all - due to a combination of hardware and firmware issues, manual focus is instead decidedly problematic, to the point of being almost unusable.

For an old-school film guy, that's not the highest of recommendations.
 
Have you looked at the Fujifilm X-Pro1? It's pretty spectacular as a "poor" man's Leica, and it has the lenses you request (35mm f/1.4 and 60mm f/2.4, on an APS-C sensor). Also, there's a 1st party Leica M-adaptor so you can eventually start buying those Leica lenses in anticipation for a future move to a Leica proper.

Oh yes, it was actually my first choice (it's gorgeous!) but it seems to have too many drawbacks for the price (unreliable AF and manual focus, poor auto-ISO, so-so video... or so I've heard).
 

golem

Member
Ok guys. I'm now ready to, very sadly, put away my 35mm film cameras (well just finding an nice shelve for them, I won't part with my m2 and FM2). Since I don't have a darkroom anymore, I just don't have the will to find the place, time and money to process film...

Maybe a Ricoh GXR w M mount module? If you have a good collection of M glass.
 

mrkgoo

Member
I had all my gear out messing about, so I thought I'd nab a quick shot of my 'kit'.

Typically, though, I go out with 2 lenses. Normally the 17-40L and maybe my 50mm f1.4.

These days though, I'm all about light and just grab the 40mm f2.8.





Sadly missing from the lineup are my stolen EF-S 60mm macro and EF 85 mm f1.8 lenses. Two of the very best. I loved those things!
Also not shown are my 18-55 II (non-IS) kit lens (guess what the photo was taken with!), and my EF1.4x II extender.
 

Red

Member
Question for EOS 7D owners:

Has anyone had luck replacing the standard viewfinder for this camera? I am tired of the issues when shooting manually open above f/2.8 or so. The DoF preview button does not really do anything until almost f/4. I have read that switching out the VF can remedy this. My slowest lens is a 2.8, and when shooting at 1.4 for shallow DoF, it is nearly impossible to get spot-on focus. It's getting increasingly frustrating the more I use it.

My favorite lens is my Zeiss ZE 50mm, but it is manual-only. And frankly, I have had too many poor experiences using the 7D's AF to rely on it much even with my AF lenses.

Using the LCD screen is the easiest way to get focus, but it's not something I can use often in bright sunlight.

One thing that still annoys the piss out of me is that I can get blurry shots -- as in, terrible unfocused unusable disasters of shots -- even when my focus confirmation light is lit up. For a camera that was so praised for its AF system, I have been having a hell of a time getting anything resembling good results from it.
 
Question for EOS 7D owners:

Has anyone had luck replacing the standard viewfinder for this camera? I am tired of the issues when shooting manually open above f/2.8 or so. The DoF preview button does not really do anything until almost f/4. I have read that switching out the VF can remedy this. My slowest lens is a 2.8, and when shooting at 1.4 for shallow DoF, it is nearly impossible to get spot-on focus. It's getting increasingly frustrating the more I use it.

My favorite lens is my Zeiss ZE 50mm, but it is manual-only. And frankly, I have had too many poor experiences using the 7D's AF to rely on it much even with my AF lenses.

Using the LCD screen is the easiest way to get focus, but it's not something I can use often in bright sunlight.

One thing that still annoys the piss out of me is that I can get blurry shots -- as in, terrible unfocused unusable disasters of shots -- even when my focus confirmation light is lit up. For a camera that was so praised for its AF system, I have been having a hell of a time getting anything resembling good results from it.

The DOF preview button engages the aperture blades, so it literally does nothing if you're shooting wide open at 1.4 on a 1.4 lens since the aperture blades are already wide open.

The AF light confirms that it locked focus at one time. If you don't snap the picture at the instant that the light comes on you will probably lose focus when shooting shallow DoF. Tiny movements in your hands will change the focus. It's why people still use the focus beep on DSLRs. Getting sharp focus on a manual lens is not going to be easy at 1.4.
 

Red

Member
The DOF preview button engages the aperture blades, so it literally does nothing if you're shooting wide open at 1.4 on a 1.4 lens since the aperture blades are already wide open.

The AF light confirms that it locked focus at one time. If you don't snap the picture at the instant that the light comes on you will probably lose focus when shooting shallow DoF. Tiny movements in your hands will change the focus. It's why people still use the focus beep on DSLRs. Getting sharp focus on a manual lens is not going to be easy at 1.4.
I haven't properly described my problem. It's not that I want the DOF preview to change when used at 1.4. It's that what is shown as in focus through the viewfinder is not what is actually in focus. Until about f/4, the camera does not accurately display DoF. That is, if I am on 1.4, and looking through the viewfinder, I am seeing an image that looks like f/4. It's not until I view the captured image on the LCD that the focus issue is apparent.

(I say 'issue' but am certain it is by design, which is why I ask about swapping viewfinders)

Live view works much better, but it is tough to use in sunlight. Manual focus via live view gives a tack sharp image 100% of the time.

As for focus confirmation, I am talking non-moving subject while on a tripod. It locks focus, or focus confirms in the case of MF, yet the image is not properly in focus. It is usually way off. This happens with all my lenses. I get proper focus with my AF lenses perhaps 1/3 of the time.


The 7D's servo AF should be able to track moving targets, but I have never once had luck with it working. That may be a case of me somehow using it wrong. I've only tried it a few times. But for single shot AF, on a tripod, taking a picture of an orange or something - - that's a function I expect to work without much fuss.
 
I haven't properly described my problem. It's not that I want the DOF preview to change when used at 1.4. It's that what is shown as in focus through the viewfinder is not what is actually in focus. Until about f/4, the camera does not accurately display DoF. That is, if I am on 1.4, and looking through the viewfinder, I am seeing an image that looks like f/4. It's not until I view the captured image on the LCD that the focus issue is apparent.

Live view works much better, but it is tough to use in sunlight.

As for focus confirmation, I am talking non-moving subject while on a tripod. It locks focus, or focus confirms in the case of MF, yet the image is not properly in focus. It is usually way off. This happens with all my lenses. I get proper focus with my AF lenses perhaps 1/3 of the time.

Ah okay, yeah I know what you mean. I've heard you can get focusing screens made for manual focusing that will help with this. Someone else knows more than me.

As for the second part, the 7Ds AF has been brilliant when I've used it. You might have a faulty model if you're missing 2/3rds of your shots.
 

mrkgoo

Member
Question for EOS 7D owners:

Has anyone had luck replacing the standard viewfinder for this camera? I am tired of the issues when shooting manually open above f/2.8 or so. The DoF preview button does not really do anything until almost f/4. I have read that switching out the VF can remedy this. My slowest lens is a 2.8, and when shooting at 1.4 for shallow DoF, it is nearly impossible to get spot-on focus. It's getting increasingly frustrating the more I use it.

My favorite lens is my Zeiss ZE 50mm, but it is manual-only. And frankly, I have had too many poor experiences using the 7D's AF to rely on it much even with my AF lenses.

Using the LCD screen is the easiest way to get focus, but it's not something I can use often in bright sunlight.

One thing that still annoys the piss out of me is that I can get blurry shots -- as in, terrible unfocused unusable disasters of shots -- even when my focus confirmation light is lit up. For a camera that was so praised for its AF system, I have been having a hell of a time getting anything resembling good results from it.
Have you tried micro adjusting your lenses?

I'm also curious to know if micro adjust works fr manual as in it allows for compensation of the confirm beep to happen at the correct time. Probably nt.
 

Red

Member
Have you tried micro adjusting your lenses?

I'm also curious to know if micro adjust works fr manual as in it allows for compensation of the confirm beep to happen at the correct time. Probably nt.
I have tried micro adjusting without much luck. It seems to be a crap shoot. I don't think it would have any bearing on MF.

I have seen many horror stories online about 7D AF. To be honest, reading them makes me feel vindicated... I thought for a long time I was just hopeless with the equipment.

I don't mind manual focusing much, I just wish it was easier through the viewfinder.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
I haven't properly described my problem. It's not that I want the DOF preview to change when used at 1.4. It's that what is shown as in focus through the viewfinder is not what is actually in focus. Until about f/4, the camera does not accurately display DoF. That is, if I am on 1.4, and looking through the viewfinder, I am seeing an image that looks like f/4. It's not until I view the captured image on the LCD that the focus issue is apparent.

(I say 'issue' but am certain it is by design, which is why I ask about swapping viewfinders)

Live view works much better, but it is tough to use in sunlight. Manual focus via live view gives a tack sharp image 100% of the time.

As for focus confirmation, I am talking non-moving subject while on a tripod. It locks focus, or focus confirms in the case of MF, yet the image is not properly in focus. It is usually way off. This happens with all my lenses. I get proper focus with my AF lenses perhaps 1/3 of the time.


The 7D's servo AF should be able to track moving targets, but I have never once had luck with it working. That may be a case of me somehow using it wrong. I've only tried it a few times. But for single shot AF, on a tripod, taking a picture of an orange or something - - that's a function I expect to work without much fuss.

If you're using the stock focusing screen for the 7D then its going to be impossible to nail focus beyond f2.8 since these screens are made to be very bright for slow lenses at the expense of showing correct DoF. With a precision matte focus screen it'll give you the correct DoF seen through the viewfinder. If you compare, by eye, the difference between what you see in Live View wide open versus through the viewfinder you may be able to see the difference in DoF.

With my Rebel XT I personally shot with a precision matte focus screen with micro prism doughnut and split prism center. I could nail focus with this wide open (this is barring any other issues like miscalibrated focus screen shims that can effect focus accuracy via the viewfinder).
 

Red

Member
Is the Rebel XT designed with a user changeable focus screen? The 7D is not. I think it is the only camera in the EOS lineup without one. I see that aftermarket screens are still available but I'm wondering how well they work.

I don't have much of a budget but I'd like to have an easier time with my equipment. I guess the question is, what's the fastest easiest way to make a 7D a capable manual focus camera? A new focus screen or a loupe for the LCD?
 

Forsete

Gold Member
Might be interested in the 16-50mm.

Otherwise I have been eyeing the 18-200mm, perfect (but huge) tourist lens. :p
 

tino

Banned
It looks like the 3 E-mount lenses for September are all but confirmed.
http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/sr5-new-35mm-f1-8-lens-for-nex-coming/

35mm F1.8
11-18mm pancake
16-50mm pancake (possibly a power zoom)

I'm still a little skeptical that Sony would actually listen to what their consumers want.

A superwide pancake? Does it sound right? Unless they want to make the IQ worse than the E16.

I don't believe a 16-50 pancake either. If its a pancake, its spec would be very close to the Panasonic folding 14-42, which start the zoom at 28mm equivalent, which is 18mm in Sony land.

How about an honest to god 16-50mm f/4 constant.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom