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Bicycle age

Addnan

Member

frontieruk

Member
Thanks, but yeah £73 is pushing it a bit too much I think.


Yeah, those are the gatorskins. Was looking for 4 seasons.

Just ordered the gatorskins from Wiggle with the £10 of a £50 spend code. Added couple extra things to make it 50.

I've been pondering gatorskins so I'll be interested in how you find them.
 
Thanks, but yeah £73 is pushing it a bit too much I think.


Yeah, those are the gatorskins. Was looking for 4 seasons.

Just ordered the gatorskins from Wiggle with the £10 of a £50 spend code. Added couple extra things to make it 50.

Have fun mounting them or trying to use them in any kind of slick weather. I've heard they're so hard they're like oil when it's wet out. The kevlar is also so hard they're a massive pain to mount
 

teepo

Member
i've been meaning to buy a speedlever

mounting some tires is an absolute bitch and it's prevented me from trying out the latex tubes that have been sitting in the garage for over a year. i know i'll fuck it up with how much trouble i have mounting the gp4000s on my mavic wheelset
 

Teggy

Member
So what's the story with mechanical disc brakes? Are they basically like caliper brakes but give you better tire clearance? Or do they still offer some better performance in wet conditions?
 

HTupolev

Member
Or do they still offer some better performance in wet conditions?
Yes, discs in general offer more consistent performance between wet and dry.

Since the rotor is much smaller in radius than a rim, getting even similar braking torque requires more aggressive clamping between pad and braking surface. My understanding is that the stronger clamping from the pad sweeps water away better.
 
So what's the story with mechanical disc brakes? Are they basically like caliper brakes but give you better tire clearance? Or do they still offer some better performance in wet conditions?

They handle much better in wet / mixed conditions. I think at this point it's not a right thing or not to go with them, it's what you want. I went with disc because I wanted a forward looking tech on my build.
 

Teggy

Member
Yes, discs in general offer more consistent performance between wet and dry.

Since the rotor is much smaller in radius than a rim, getting even similar braking torque requires more aggressive clamping between pad and braking surface. My understanding is that the stronger clamping from the pad sweeps water away better.

They handle much better in wet / mixed conditions. I think at this point it's not a right thing or not to go with them, it's what you want. I went with disc because I wanted a forward looking tech on my build.

But I was more curious about the difference between hydraulic and mechanical. Are mechanical useful?
 
But I was more curious about the difference between hydraulic and mechanical. Are mechanical useful?

The hydraulic will have pull a lot easier so the stopping power can be greater. Other than that it's just fluid vs cable for the mechanism. Mechanical will be a lot easier to service.
 
QhsBliR.jpg

3VW4e2A.jpg

Good combo I think.
 
Mid Wales. Pub is in Rhayader.

I've never cycled on snow before. Is scary. Crashed once because entire wheel went into a ditch I couldn't see.
 

Mascot

Member
Mid Wales. Pub is in Rhayader.

I've never cycled on snow before. Is scary. Crashed once because entire wheel went into a ditch I couldn't see.

Nice! I'm still off the bike. The bad back is slowly getting better but I was laid up with full-fat flu all last week so missed this weekend's good weather due to still feeling drained. Haven't been able to do any meaningful exercise for about a month now so fully expecting a painful reintroduction.
 
Yeah, getting back to it sucks. It's amazing how quickly the cardio fitness goes.

Is funny, I was like a superhuman to the people I was out with this weekend. I'm under no illusions it was because I carried my fitness through the winter with constant riding, but it was amusing to be going up a 12% hill and zipping between other riders in the group to have a chat.

Oh, and before the roadies say anything, this is carrying 15kg worth of bags for winter bikepacking. :p


Oh, and talking of superhuman... this guy was on my flybys: https://www.strava.com/activities/832439419

I must admit that I geeked out a bit when I saw him. For those of you that don't recognise the name... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mike_Hall_(cyclist)
 

ACE 1991

Member
So I'm building up a commuter beater road bike from a frame by buddy has, what you recommend for cyclocross wheels and tires? Looking to keep it as cheap as possible while still being solidly made.
 

HTupolev

Member
So I'm building up a commuter beater road bike from a frame by buddy has, what you recommend for cyclocross wheels and tires? Looking to keep it as cheap as possible while still being solidly made.
What's the goal with this bike? What kinds of surfaces are you riding on?
 
Tried to ride something beyond my skill as a first day back post cold and got wrecked. Barely made it an hour before tapping out. It was incredibly defeating.

I've been mainly riding stuff like this:
Collage-of-Chris-and-Trail.jpg


But yesterday opted to try a trail with A LOT of stuff like this, uphill, plus more rocks:


Needless to say my skills are atrocious on technical stuff like this.
 
No need for top of the line, just something relatively quiet and easy to use. I'd entertain going up to $150 maybe. Tell me if that's low / I need to get my expectations in check.

Magnetic trainers tend to be the loudest
Fluid trainers are more quiet, but may run you more money. I think the cheapest one will run you $250-300.
 

HTupolev

Member
For transportation around Pittsburgh, which gets quite icy and snowy. I don't plan on using the bike when it gets super bad outside.

For reference, this is the frame I'll have: http://store.bicycleczar.com/60cm-TREK-5000-Full-Carbon-OCLV-United-States-Post-p/02140414.htm
How much tire clearance do you have? Some road racing frames are extremely tight, and may not fit any kind of cyclocross or winter-specific tires. Switching to 650b wheels (and long-reach brakes) could probably give you a bit more breathing room, but usually 650b conversions are done with the intention of using wider road slicks and there might not really exist 650b winter tires that aren't hugely wide.

Cyclocross knobs may help in some sorts of snow. If you're intending to hit hard ice, however, the only thing that'll give you traction there is studs. Unfortunately, I'm not sure if any studded tires exist that are narrower than Schwalbe's Marathon Winter 700x30mm.
 

ACE 1991

Member
How much tire clearance do you have? Some road racing frames are extremely tight, and may not fit any kind of cyclocross or winter-specific tires. Switching to 650b wheels (and long-reach brakes) could probably give you a bit more breathing room, but usually 650b conversions are done with the intention of using wider road slicks and there might not really exist 650b winter tires that aren't hugely wide.

Cyclocross knobs may help in some sorts of snow. If you're intending to hit hard ice, however, the only thing that'll give you traction there is studs. Unfortunately, I'm not sure if any studded tires exist that are narrower than Schwalbe's Marathon Winter 700x30mm.

Yeah, measuring the frame there isn't going to be enough clearance for enough small knobbies :(

I think I might just say fuck and order a $600 cyclocross bike on Nashbar or Bikedirect, one of those should be perfectly serviceable to commute for a few years.
 

Laekon

Member
Edit - Just got accepted into Leadville 100 (Mountin biking race in Colorado, USA). Now the long and painful training begins.

I'm going to crush it.

Grats on getting in. You are from the UK right? I hope if you are traveling all that way you have some extra time to ride some of the amazing areas around Colorado and maybe even Utah. Crested Butte(the closest), Steamboat, Durango, Gooseberry Mesa(the farthest but most unlike anything in Europe), Moab etc are all bucket list areas. And if you want a second suffer fest climbing day, less then the race of course, there is the Mt Evans road climb to 14,000+ feet. You could fly into Vegas and out of Denver, riding some of the best and most scenic trails in the US and getting use to the elevation at the same time.
 
Yeah, I'm from the UK, though I'll be tapering the week before (and getting used to the altitude), so I wont be doing any major rides. Certainly nothing like Moab where I'm likely to get injured and wreck a year of prep. lol

I'm going to do some hiking to stay active, and some gentle scenery rides though.
 

Mascot

Member
Yeah, I'm from the UK, though I'll be tapering the week before (and getting used to the altitude), so I wont be doing any major rides. Certainly nothing like Moab where I'm likely to get injured and wreck a year of prep. lol

I'm going to do some hiking to stay active, and some gentle scenery rides though.

If you don't visit Virgin and GoPro yourself at one of the Rampage routes then YOU ARE DEAD TO ME.
 
Anyone familiar with old-ish steel road frames? I have the opportunity to buy a Colnago Classic frame from the early noughts, and I'm not sure how much they're worth these days.
 

Laekon

Member
Anyone familiar with old-ish steel road frames? I have the opportunity to buy a Colnago Classic frame from the early noughts, and I'm not sure how much they're worth these days.
I have no idea of the value but it was made after everyone had moved on from steel. It didn't have their signature tubing so it was just in the line for nostalgic types. I don't even remember if that model was made in Italy. It's not worth much.
 

Mascot

Member
Anyone familiar with old-ish steel road frames? I have the opportunity to buy a Colnago Classic frame from the early noughts, and I'm not sure how much they're worth these days.

No idea, but I had an Eddy Merckx bike back in the 1970s that's probably worth a small island now.

YES I WAS A JIMMY. Get over it.
 

Laekon

Member
Ha ha..! I had a bike with Eddy Merckx branding on it. I don't know what else to tell you.

Edit: Google it. There are plenty of EM bikes from the 1970s. Made by Falcon, apparently. That name rings a bell.
Got it. I just knew his own company didn't start until the 80's.
 
I have no idea of the value but it was made after everyone had moved on from steel. It didn't have their signature tubing so it was just in the line for nostalgic types. I don't even remember if that model was made in Italy. It's not worth much.

The guy is asking 350€ for a frameset with headset and bb, plus original stem and seatpost. I was thinking I might be crazy enough go for it at 300. Would make a beautiful fixie for riding with my buttcrack showing.
 

Laekon

Member
What do you guys think about this bike at this price? I'd be purchasing it as a commuter. Looks like it would have clearance to fit much bigger tires.

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5955381011.html

That would be a much better commuter bike then the road one you linked before. It is also a much better frame then anything nashbar has for under $1400. If it's a M/L then it's the same as a 56 cm road bike, good for someone right around or just under 6'. Check the rims to see if they are concave along the braking track and check the teeth of the chainrings and the chain. Year round commuting can wear those parts badly and the wheels at least would be a few hundred to replace. Also it's a 2012.

The guy is asking 350€ for a frameset with headset and bb, plus original stem and seatpost. I was thinking I might be crazy enough go for it at 300. Would make a beautiful fixie for riding with my buttcrack showing.

Thats probably a decent price since anything new at that range would be junk. Just check it for rust and crash dmg. Look along the top and down tube behind the head tube for ripples.
 
Thats probably a decent price since anything new at that range would be junk. Just check it for rust and crash dmg. Look along the top and down tube behind the head tube for ripples.

It's supposed to be near mint or whatever the term is for bicycles. But we'll see, literally!
 

ACE 1991

Member
That would be a much better commuter bike then the road one you linked before. It is also a much better frame then anything nashbar has for under $1400. If it's a M/L then it's the same as a 56 cm road bike, good for someone right around or just under 6'. Check the rims to see if they are concave along the braking track and check the teeth of the chainrings and the chain. Year round commuting can wear those parts badly and the wheels at least would be a few hundred to replace. Also it's a 2012.



Thats probably a decent price since anything new at that range would be junk. Just check it for rust and crash dmg. Look along the top and down tube behind the head tube for ripples.

God dammit, you're right. He's listed it as 53.5, but if it's M/L it's 56.5. I am 5'8'' and ride a 54, so that's going to be too large. Back to the Craigslist hunt.
 
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