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Bicycle age

Today on trails I was on a more technical section so I was getting comfortable with using a front brake again. Unfortunately this became too much muscle memory because in a faster section I tapped it and ate shit hard. Took a nice little puncture into my knee.
 

T8SC

Member
Had a sportive today and literally been blown around the route, though never experienced the mythical tailwind. Is this wind ever gonna cease? Getting tiresome now.
 

frontieruk

Member
Hm. They do look pretty nice. Know if they sell these in store anywhere? Would like to be able to try for sizing. A bit all over the place right now in size.

I'll be honest only brought from them online and only in sales, but they've swapped goods i sized incorrectly with no hassle.
 

Stinkles

Clothed, sober, cooperative
Just picked one of these up with my work Fitness credit. I put on clipless Shimanos and am planning to get a riser for the front bar. Because god made me a hunchback or a reverse hunchback, but I always need a front riser.

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I usually ride a hybrid on roads with slightly knobbly cyclocross tires but I wanted something for the cinderpaths and "proper" mountain trails on the mountains and islands near here. But didn't want to go full suspension because I'm old and not getting involved in that nonsense.
 

Teggy

Member
Giro doesn't seem to have any television coverage this year except for the Italian language cable channel I don't have on my package.

I picked up a Specialized Avatar Comp Gel saddle yesterday. It has more padding and a bigger channel down the middle. We'll see if it feels better.
 
man the new kickr firmware update has been hit and miss. after i installed their latest firmware, the kickr just completely locked up and i couldnt make two consecutive turns of the pedals. if i did manage to start a spindown, it would lock up after 4-5 minutes. moreover, the power readings being transmitted were incredibly variant. took me about a week and multiple back and forths with Wahoo to get it working again. had to reinstall old firmware, then reinstall new one, then advanced spindown, then spindown. multiple times.

and if i don't use the kickr for 2-3 days the thing just wont turn over, and basically have to spend 30 minutes calibrating for it to sync properly with trainer road. seems to be ok now but was a pain in the ass for about two weeks.

when working and calibrated the thing is spot on power wise. i usually did powermatch on trainer road because of my power2max PM and kickr overestimating its own power levels and now i don't even need to do that. i just simply use the kickr's power meter as it +/- 3 watts on my garmin.
 
Just picked one of these up with my work Fitness credit. I put on clipless Shimanos and am planning to get a riser for the front bar. Because god made me a hunchback or a reverse hunchback, but I always need a front riser.



I usually ride a hybrid on roads with slightly knobbly cyclocross tires but I wanted something for the cinderpaths and "proper" mountain trails on the mountains and islands near here. But didn't want to go full suspension because I'm old and not getting involved in that nonsense.

Grats on the new bike! I have the X-Caliber 9 and it rides great. You seem to have the 7 so make sure the coil in the fork is suitable for your weight though (the bike shop should've sorted that when you bought it but you never know).
 
Welp. Wasn't planning on it, but I just had to pull the trigger on the limited edition Merz/Specialized Sequoia.

How do those Sawtooth's ride? I've been very happy with Panaracer durability, but just curious.

man the new kickr firmware update has been hit and miss. after i installed their latest firmware, the kickr just completely locked up and i couldnt make two consecutive turns of the pedals. if i did manage to start a spindown, it would lock up after 4-5 minutes. moreover, the power readings being transmitted were incredibly variant. took me about a week and multiple back and forths with Wahoo to get it working again. had to reinstall old firmware, then reinstall new one, then advanced spindown, then spindown. multiple times.

.

Even with an advanced spindown?

Giro doesn't seem to have any television coverage this year except for the Italian language cable channel I don't have on my package.

I picked up a Specialized Avatar Comp Gel saddle yesterday. It has more padding and a bigger channel down the middle. We'll see if it feels better.

Even BeIN?
 

Stinkles

Clothed, sober, cooperative
Grats on the new bike! I have the X-Caliber 9 and it rides great. You seem to have the 7 so make sure the coil in the fork is suitable for your weight though (the bike shop should've sorted that when you bought it but you never know).

Yep! It was perfect first time on full lock and full open. Or at least until I hit my first ditch...
 
I have a set on my AWOL and have liked them, but not sure I would be happy paying retail for them. Thankfully I receive a fairly generous employee price on Specialized and Trek stuff. ;)

Yeah the price is what kills any interest for me in trying, especially since I'm running tubeless. I think after this warm season is over I'm going to try the Panaracer 650b options. I borrowed a friends bike to see how the WTB Horizon's felt and it was like pulling a brick behind me.
 

Stinkles

Clothed, sober, cooperative
I'm 110% pro tubeless. It's a hassle to set up correctly but after that it's just perfect.

I ride my Gary Fisher mendota on tubeless tires, with innertubes in 'em anyway. The dude at the bike shop said I might as well. Haven't had a flat in four years. So maybe there's something to it?
 

Laekon

Member
I see way too many bikes in for tubeless tires issues to ever run tubeless myself, but to each their own. :)

What issues? The only issues I regularly see are people forgetting that the sealant can dry out. It's a bigger factor in So Cal and other dry places then say the Northeast. I just tell people to set a 3 month reminder on their phone before leaving.

I don't know anything about the original Sequoia but the relaunch in the early 2000's was a crappy bike. It was like a comfort road bike with an adjustable angle stem where the bars normally ended up higher then the saddle. I just remember them sitting around for years.
 
I see way too many bikes in for tubeless tires issues to ever run tubeless myself, but to each their own. :)

Like what?

The only issues i ever hear of are people using the wrong rims or wrong tires.

yeah, its so strange. like it'll work fine for a week, then one day just not work at all. it'll take a couple of advanced spindowns to do the trick.

When I got my Snap it was impossible to use and I almost returned it, but then I got a firmware bump and advanced spindown which fixed it all. I wont update now unless I absolutely have to
 
Tubeless is definitely the way forward its just a matter of doing it right, I run XM319's with stans rim strips and a high roller pops/holds air easy, on the front a minion DHF is an absolute pain in the arse and needs air every few days

Next upgrade will be a set of proper tubeless rims and UST tyres, though i'm toying with the idea of just running DH tubes for the easy switch and replace on a between/run
 
I ride my Gary Fisher mendota on tubeless tires, with innertubes in 'em anyway. The dude at the bike shop said I might as well. Haven't had a flat in four years. So maybe there's something to it?

Tubeless puncture resistance is because there's no inner tube to pinch when going over sharp edges like kerbs, and because there's some latex solution inside the tyre that will coagulate over small holes and thus fix them.

So you're just lucky! That and likely one of those people whose riding style naturally avoids puncture risks.
 

Mascot

Member
Never heard of running a tubeless wheelset WITH inner tubes before.

Unless they are instead of a proper milky setup, and tubeless by name only?
 

teepo

Member
some bikes that are sold as tubeless ready have tubeless wheelsets running tubeless tires with tubes

in fact i'm about to buy some tubeless tires (maybe the kenda happy medium) for my sscx bike to run with tubes until i build a new tubeless a24 wheelset for it. i've been told tubeless tires with tubes can be more puncture resistant because of the extra thickness in the sidewall though i think you exchange that with some rolling resistance
 

Stinkles

Clothed, sober, cooperative
Tubeless puncture resistance is because there's no inner tube to pinch when going over sharp edges like kerbs, and because there's some latex solution inside the tyre that will coagulate over small holes and thus fix them.

So you're just lucky! That and likely one of those people whose riding style naturally avoids puncture risks.

Well I ride it on trails, pavement, country roads, downhill and cinder track and millions of pinchflat scenarios. But I have been lucky generally with flats. Touch wood.
 

T8SC

Member
some bikes that are sold as tubeless ready have tubeless wheelsets running tubeless tires with tubes

Yep, my mates Focus came with DT Swiss tubeless ready wheels, tubeless Schwalbe One tyres and innertubes. We found it odd but there ya go.

Safe to say the tubes came out, some Doc Blue went in & the pressure was dropped.
 

Mascot

Member
Bikes with tubeless-ready wheelsets are rarely sold set up as tubeless in the box because there's no way of knowing how long the bike will be held as stock. Tubeless milk has a shelf life once in the tyre. They often have standard tubes installed but come supplied with valves and/or rim tape for conversion.

I thought the earlier poster had milk AND tubes in his tyres, not one or the other (which is perfectly normal). I'm currently running my front tubeless tyre with the tube still in because I simply haven't got round to juicing it up yet.
 

teepo

Member
and whichever bikeshop you get it from will more than likely convert the bike to a tubeless setup free of charge

afterall, being able to use tubes is one of the many positives in running tubeless

i dont know shit about road bike tubeless, but MTB tubeless is basically perfect now. Throw a huck norris in and you dont have to worry.

wish it were the same for cx unless there has been some sort of advancements in the last year or two that i've missed. most riders are okay with using tubeless for training purposes and even that's a hot topic but the general consensus is that they're unreliable on technical cx race courses, at least compared to tubulars

i'm still going to build and run a tubeless setup on mine.
 

Laekon

Member
Where did tubeless milk come from? Is that the current UK term? Do you use disc beet juice? Plus Orange Seal sealant is better then Stan's.

Most tubeless ready tires don't have thicker sidewalls its the rubber around the bead. What might be thicker is many have some type of cut protection like Maxxis EXO or Scwalbe SnakeSkin but that technology was a part of tires before tubeless. Now UST tires are thicker and have no reason to exist except for downhill use. I always carry a tube and tire boot when running tubeless just cause you never know. Not sure what term is used for tire boot in the UK as it is also a silly term. It's a big temporary patch you place inside a tire to get the tube from coming out a cut in the tire.
 
wish it were the same for cx unless there has been some sort of advancements in the last year or two that i've missed. most riders are okay with using tubeless for training purposes and even that's a hot topic but the general consensus is that they're unreliable on technical cx race courses, at least compared to tubulars

i'm still going to build and run a tubeless setup on mine.

I'm running tubeless on my everyday bike and have zero issues, even when taking corners hot. Is the concern with cornering on some of the smaller widths and them burping?
 

teepo

Member
I'm running tubeless on my everyday bike and have zero issues, even when taking corners hot. Is the concern with cornering on some of the smaller widths and them burping?

smaller widths that are indirectly a consequence of uci being a bunch of twats. this article does a good run down on how uci rule changes impacted the cx market.

in short, the 33c maximum rule resulted in tire manufactuers dropping larger tubeless tire sizes in favor of rushing out tubeless versions that fit uci's racing guidelines. i don't think tubeless tires are ready for smaller widths and possibly never will be.

35-40mm tubeless tires work just fine and will more than likely get you across the finish line without a flat. still, if you're going to seriously race, a cx tubular wheelset will always be the best choice though that market is fucking small
 

Teggy

Member
I still don't quite understand why pros prefer tubular over clinchers. The only real reason I've heard is that in the event of a flat, tubular tires don't let out air as fast so are safer. I don't know why that would be the case.
 

HTupolev

Member
I still don't quite understand why pros prefer tubular over clinchers. The only real reason I've heard is that in the event of a flat, tubular tires don't let out air as fast so are safer. I don't know why that would be the case.
As far as the air escaping faster thing goes, the theory is that it's because air escaping a clincher tube can leave freely via the spoke holes in the rim, giving it more places to go. On a tubular, the tire casing totally envelopes the inner tube including from below, so the only spot where air is escaping very rapidly is the hole in the tire.
Whether this is actually relevant or not... who knows, I've never seen it quantified.

The more common safety argument is that a tubular tire stays mounted better when flat. Clinchers are primarily held in place by air pressure, whereas tubulars have air pressure and glue sharing the effort. The fear is that clinchers are more likely to roll, leaving you skidding out on bare rims.

The real reason that I think tubulars are preferred for racing is related to the above paragraph, but slightly different: it's somewhat practical to keep riding on a tubular even when it's totally flat. It's not comfortable, it's not good for your equipment, you need to ride gingerly on it, but it allows you to make forward progress until you can get support.

//=============

Plain old performance is another reason that's often given. In particular, they do save some rotating weight, and people who are constantly accelerating obsess over that. Based on the napkin math I'm not entirely convinced the gains work out how people say they do, but it's a major argument that gets used. And admittedly, crits are vastly more erratic than most of the riding I do.

And one thing that probably used to be fairly significant: tire availability. Currently there's a nice selection of good clinchers in many shapes and sizes, but that hasn't always been the case.
Heck, even today, you can't get silk clinchers. There are only a few makers of such tires, and AFAIK they're all tubular-only.
 

Mascot

Member
Where did tubeless milk come from? Is that the current UK term?

It's quite common parlance over here, especially in MTB circles. It's nice and quick to say..!

Google it, there are plenty of references.

Plus Orange Seal sealant is better then Stan's.

Agreed.

and whichever bikeshop you get it from will more than likely convert the bike to a tubeless setup free of charge

afterall, being able to use tubes is one of the many positives in running tubeless

Absolutely. I'll always carry at least one spare tube even when running totally tubeless.
 

Addnan

Member
Rapha have a 25% discount code for completing a survey, should pop up by just going on their main page. Works on bundles too, so £105 for core jersey and shorts is awfully tempting. If anyone wanted overpriced goods, for slightly less overpriced
 

Sanic

Member
Marin is a reputable brand so it's not going to be a bad bike. But I'd change two things:

1) Disc brakes are far superior to rim brakes.
2) The suspension fork at this price is fairly useless and non-repairable. When it wears it will end up being locked out and compromising the handling of your bike. A rigid fork is 100% hassle free.

Looking at the Marin catalog, the Muirwoods is what I'd go for. The spec is pretty much bombproof. On top of that it's got a cromo steel frame, which will last forever and thus give it a resale value.

I'm late on the reply, but I wanted to say thanks for taking the time to respond.

I actually ended up sticking with the San Rafael - while the Muirwoods looks great, it's nearly twice the price and was a bit more than I wanted to spend, especially since i'm just getting into this. Regarding point #2, are you suggesting that more expensive models have a repairable suspension fork, or that you wouldn't recommend a suspension fork for this type of bike at all?

My bike was delivered/built today, so i'm planning on taking it out later this evening to see how everything feels. Hoping for the best!
 
I'm late on the reply, but I wanted to say thanks for taking the time to respond.

I actually ended up sticking with the San Rafael - while the Muirwoods looks great, it's nearly twice the price and was a bit more than I wanted to spend, especially since i'm just getting into this. Regarding point #2, are you suggesting that more expensive models have a repairable suspension fork, or that you wouldn't recommend a suspension fork for this type of bike at all?

My bike was delivered/built today, so i'm planning on taking it out later this evening to see how everything feels. Hoping for the best!

Grats on the bike! Don't worry, it'll ride perfectly well.

For hybrid type bikes, there isn't much in the way of higher end suspension forks, at least that I know of. Suspension forks are IMO needed only on proper mountain bikes, although they're being slowly introduced to gravel road bikes too, like the Cannondale Slate.

Generally the main thing against repairing low end suspension forks is that the cost is easily more than just buying a completely new fork. And if you keep doing that, the cheap fork eventually becomes expensive.
 
Neighbors moved in next to us and the guy says to me "hey I have a fixed gear I need to get rid of, it's yours if you want it. i spent over 1000 on it". I thought, ok whatever free bike.

Turns out to be an SE Lager...........sigh. I might spend more in getting it tuned up than the bike is actually worth.
 
Neighbors moved in next to us and the guy says to me "hey I have a fixed gear I need to get rid of, it's yours if you want it. i spent over 1000 on it". I thought, ok whatever free bike.

Turns out to be an SE Lager...........sigh. I might spend more in getting it tuned up than the bike is actually worth.

You can bring by my shop and we'll take care of it for ya. Gotta come to Westfield though. ;)
 
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