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Bicycle age

My first bike! 2017 Giant Contend SL Disc 1
JmmP2eD.png

Added some Shimano Saint pedals and picked up Giro Jacket shoes and swapped out the shoelaces for ones that match the bike.

Feels good being so sexy, man.
 

Lonely1

Unconfirmed Member
So, is storm season over here... and why didn't anyone told me that road tires are absolutely no good on wet pavement? I almost fell over three times on my road home :S . I could feel lack of traction all the way. I didn't have this problem last year with my electric bike and its wider tires...
 

teepo

Member
i usually deflate my tires by 10psi when riding in the rain

speaking of which, i've been meaning to buy some some grand prix 4 seasons for those rainy days. it's not fun descending down a mountain in or after a shower
 

HTupolev

Member
So, is storm season over here... and why didn't anyone told me that road tires are absolutely no good on wet pavement?
The coefficient of friction does drop when the roads are slick, so you can't corner and brake super hard, but for the most part they're well-behaved and what people use. Tread compound matters, though. What tires are you running?

It'd be great if I could just swap between something like the Pari Moto
FYI, since you're concerned about Compass tire durability, the original Pari Moto is basically a Compass Loup Loup Pass but with much thinner tread rubber. There appears to be a version floating around now that's been ruggedized with a bead-to-bead puncture-protection layer, but the super-supple featherweight one as advertised on Panaracer's website is not something you'll want if you're erring toward durability.
 

Lonely1

Unconfirmed Member
The coefficient of friction does drop when the roads are slick, so you can't corner and brake super hard, but for the most part they're well-behaved and what people use. Tread compound matters, though. What tires are you running?

Schwalbe Marathon.
 

T8SC

Gold Member
Tubeless Pro Ones really do roll super well. I was freewheeling past others all the time at my 200 ride, even without slipstream. The guy I was riding with commented on it too.

The downside is that apparently they last for only about 2000km.

Yeah they roll superbly and I have ceramic wheel hub bearings too in my Racing Zeros so basically I roll forever haha.

Climbs definitely take their toll on them though, as you say they aren't the most durable so they are quite expensive for the miles (or km) you get out of them. They tend to last longer if you do flatter miles where you aren't scrubbing the sides as much, which is why I got barely 1000 miles out of them on my old bike, constant hills on my rides.
 
FYI, since you're concerned about Compass tire durability, the original Pari Moto is basically a Compass Loup Loup Pass but with much thinner tread rubber. There appears to be a version floating around now that's been ruggedized with a bead-to-bead puncture-protection layer, but the super-supple featherweight one as advertised on Panaracer's website is not something you'll want if you're erring toward durability.

Well that sucks, thanks. If/when the Homage's reach EOL I'll have to re-evaluate whats going on in the tubeless space.
 

Karish

Member
I have these bar ends coming today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002I7IBHM/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Also this tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTT9GGW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Trying to make my Critical Cycles Harper a bit more versatile.

I NEED HELP: Should I put the bar ends on the literal end of the bar so that it mimics a more traditional pursuit handlebar, or should i position them more towards the center of the handle bar as I have seen some folks do in the Amazon reviews? What are pros and cons for each.

This:

5jcWfM7.png


Or this:

gF0Zf0A.png
 

HTupolev

Member
What pressure do you guys use for 25c road tires?

I weigh 155lbs and went 85 in front and 95 in back. Am I doing it wrong?
At that weight on 25s, I'd probably do 75-90r 70-80f depending on conditions.

70-75 (Tubeless)
100 (Tubes)
I'm sort of confused here. Unless you go so low that pinch flats are a big concern, it doesn't make sense to run tubes way higher than tubeless. And for a 155-pound rider, 25mm tires don't need to be anywhere close to 100PSI to minimize that risk, unless the rider is constantly slamming into curbs and potholes or something.
 

T8SC

Gold Member
At that weight on 25s, I'd probably do 75-90r 70-80f depending on conditions.


I'm sort of confused here. Unless you go so low that pinch flats are a big concern, it doesn't make sense to run tubes way higher than tubeless. And for a 155-pound rider, 25mm tires don't need to be anywhere close to 100PSI to minimize that risk, unless the rider is constantly slamming into curbs and potholes or something.

Schwalbe's recommended tyre pressures

tyre-pressure-chart.jpg


Pretty much.
 

HTupolev

Member
Schwalbe’s recommended tyre pressures

tyre-pressure-chart.jpg


Pretty much.
I wasn't wondering where your numbers come from, I was curious why you're recommending such a huge gap between tubes and tubeless for road.

Also, that chart doesn't really answer where your numbers come from, since it disagrees with both of them.
 

T8SC

Gold Member
I wasn't wondering where your numbers come from, I was curious why you're recommending such a huge gap between tubes and tubeless for road.

Also, that chart doesn't really answer where your numbers come from, since it disagrees with both of them.

How does it disagree with both of them?

Tubeless tyres for a start have a max of about 105-110PSI (Can't remember exactly without looking) and are totally different to tyres with tubes (Which generally max out at approx 130PSI). Run a bike with tubes @ 80PSI and then a tubeless tyre @ 80PSI and you'll instantly notice and feel the difference. I ride both setups, I know from experience. I ride what suits me, what gives me better cornering ability and generally makes me roll as fast as possible. I found the above pressures through trial & error using both flats & climbs to determine which I preferred.
 

HTupolev

Member
How does it disagree with both of them?
You recommended that a 155-pound rider to use either 70-75 or 100 depending on tire configuration. The chart says 87PSI for 132lbs and 100PSI or 187lbs, so it would place a 155lb rider somewhere in the lower 90s. All of these figures are different.

Run a bike with tubes @ 80PSI and then a tubeless tyre @ 80PSI and you'll instantly notice and feel the difference.
I agree that adding another butyl layer to a tire reduces its suppleness. And to some degree maybe adding a bit more PSI to counteract the added hysteresis loss can make sense. But that's also increasing the harshness of a tire that's already harsher, which has its own drawbacks if you err too high. Which is why on the road, I tend to use about the same PSI regardless of suppleness.

Tubeless tyres for a start have a max of about 105-110PSI (Can't remember exactly without looking) and are totally different to tyres with tubes (Which generally max out at approx 130PSI).
Sidewall numbers are boilerplate figures stuck in for various legal and safety reasons. For instance, the previous gen of Vittoria open tubulars list >=100PSI minimum pressures for tires up to 27mm, which according to Vittoria themselves is pretty much because...
According to ETRTO, bicycle tires are allowed to deflect 30% of its height at maximum load only. We respect the ETRTO, but we do not limit the body weight of our customers.
...it would hypothetically be possible for an extremely heavy cyclist to need to pump them that high to stay within ETRTO tire drop guidelines.

These numbers don't have anything to do with typical optimal inflation pressures.
 

teepo

Member
continental recommends the gp4000s ii to run at the max psi of 120psi and i of course foolishly followed their recommendation.

one day i forgot to inflate my tire after not having ridden for a few days and immediatly i noticed a difference. i had never ridden so fast with such little effort and i broke several personal records. when i went home, my tires were around 80 and 90 psi. go figure
 

broony

Member
Pulled a muscle in my back 5 weeks ago. I've done it before but this time it's refusing to heal. I have sciatic pain to go along with the lack of ability to move properly.

I've been training for a 104 mile 8000ft climb event in June and even if I could resume training today I don't have the fitness to do it. I'll do it next year but it's really frustrating to have a good few months hard work go to shit.

I can't even commute to work on my bike at the minute. I want to go out and play. Booooooo.
 

Teggy

Member
Well my previously postponed trail ride got rained out again. Since we're getting into event season they aren't going to reschedule for a weekend and are going to do some weeknight rides which I probably won't be able to make :/
 

T8SC

Gold Member
You recommended that a 155-pound rider to use either 70-75 or 100 depending on tire configuration. The chart says 87PSI for 132lbs and 100PSI or 187lbs, so it would place a 155lb rider somewhere in the lower 90s. All of these figures are different.

I didn't read the question fully, I was basing it on my own measurements.

HTupolev said:
I agree that adding another butyl layer to a tire reduces its suppleness. And to some degree maybe adding a bit more PSI to counteract the added hysteresis loss can make sense. But that's also increasing the harshness of a tire that's already harsher, which has its own drawbacks if you err too high. Which is why on the road, I tend to use about the same PSI regardless of suppleness.

Down to personal preferences at the end of the day, trial & error and everyone will have a different idea of what they prefer after a few test runs.

HTupolev said:
Sidewall numbers are boilerplate figures stuck in for various legal and safety reasons. For instance, the previous gen of Vittoria open tubulars list >=100PSI minimum pressures for tires up to 27mm, which according to Vittoria themselves is pretty much because...

...it would hypothetically be possible for an extremely heavy cyclist to need to pump them that high to stay within ETRTO tire drop guidelines.

These numbers don't have anything to do with typical optimal inflation pressures.

As I said, personal preferences after many miles of tests. Whether the sidewall info is useful or not, what we ourselves prefer is what counts. I've rode thousands of miles and determined what I feel suits me best for both setups on my summer & winter bike. New style wheels are also wider and the tyre sits differently which no doubt will make things different if changing from an older thinner wheel where the tyre is less bulbous once fitted & pumped.

Lots of factors to consider and no matter what is said on a forum, we all have our own idea of what suits our individual riding style.
 

Thaedolus

Gold Member
So I ended up getting a Giant Anyroad 2 in February: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/anyroad--2-2016

I trained up for a 50 mile charity ride for work and was doing great all the way through the event, but started experience awful knee pain in my left knee on subsequent rides. From what it sounds like from other riders and googling, maybe my quads got much stronger than my aducters and hamstrings so my knee wasn't tracking right. Does that sound normal? Usually the pain hits when it's bent about 90 degrees.

I've been rolling out my IT band on a foam roller and doing stretches and squats with my feet pointed out to try to balance it out. I rode for about 8 miles today for the first time in a couple weeks and didn't have any pain, so it sounds like I'm doing something right. Any other advice? I really felt it when I was riding in high gears up hill and pushing hard instead of pedaling faster. I've got crank bros egg beater pedals tool
 

T8SC

Gold Member
Early night for me, the Fred Whitton Challenge awaits tomorrow. Watt did you say? 6hrs, go hard or go home. #Paintrain
 
So I ended up getting a Giant Anyroad 2 in February: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/anyroad--2-2016

I trained up for a 50 mile charity ride for work and was doing great all the way through the event, but started experience awful knee pain in my left knee on subsequent rides. From what it sounds like from other riders and googling, maybe my quads got much stronger than my aducters and hamstrings so my knee wasn't tracking right. Does that sound normal? Usually the pain hits when it's bent about 90 degrees.

I've been rolling out my IT band on a foam roller and doing stretches and squats with my feet pointed out to try to balance it out. I rode for about 8 miles today for the first time in a couple weeks and didn't have any pain, so it sounds like I'm doing something right. Any other advice? I really felt it when I was riding in high gears up hill and pushing hard instead of pedaling faster. I've got crank bros egg beater pedals tool

A few things:

If this was your first time doing any form of long distance you may have just over trained and thus you had the knee problems. I once over trained so bad my quads felt constantly tight for almost a month.

The muscle imbalance you read about is not going to happen this fast, it will happen over time.

"Patella femoral" is a catch all name for what your describing but it is not always muscle imbalance as you're targeting. It could be, and very likely is, just you being REALLY tight in the hips.

Stop foam rolling your IT band because if it's inflamed you're just going to piss it off even more. Foam rolling is like a massage and should not be a replacement for stretching.

Chill on the squats, you may not even need them. In fact this could even be making things worse

Stop pedaling in super hard gears, thats not how you get better. You're only going to aggravate everything even more

Did you make sure to get a bike fit? You can do 800 things but if you're bike is not set up right you're only going to be going in circles.

You felt fine because you didn't do anything for a few weeks so your muscles likely recovered.

Look up stretches that target your hip flexors, hamstrings and glutes. Also look up core activities like dead bugs, press ups, planks, hip bridges. NO CRUNCHES
 

Thaedolus

Gold Member
A few things:

If this was your first time doing any form of long distance you may have just over trained and thus you had the knee problems. I once over trained so bad my quads felt constantly tight for almost a month.

The muscle imbalance you read about is not going to happen this fast, it will happen over time.

"Patella femoral" is a catch all name for what your describing but it is not always muscle imbalance as you're targeting. It could be, and very likely is, just you being REALLY tight in the hips.

Stop foam rolling your IT band because if it's inflamed you're just going to piss it off even more. Foam rolling is like a massage and should not be a replacement for stretching.

Chill on the squats, you may not even need them. In fact this could even be making things worse

Stop pedaling in super hard gears, thats not how you get better. You're only going to aggravate everything even more

Did you make sure to get a bike fit? You can do 800 things but if you're bike is not set up right you're only going to be going in circles.

You felt fine because you didn't do anything for a few weeks so your muscles likely recovered.

Look up stretches that target your hip flexors, hamstrings and glutes. Also look up core activities like dead bugs, press ups, planks, hip bridges. NO CRUNCHES

Thanks. I haven't had my bike fitted, I was going to try to follow this guide with my wife this weekend (she's got a goniometer from work): http://wheelworld.com/articles/how-to-fit-your-bicycle-pg190.htm

It's either that or take it into a shop to have it done, I'd rather pay for that than just forget about riding.
 
Thanks. I haven't had my bike fitted, I was going to try to follow this guide with my wife this weekend (she's got a goniometer from work): http://wheelworld.com/articles/how-to-fit-your-bicycle-pg190.htm

It's either that or take it into a shop to have it done, I'd rather pay for that than just forget about riding.

I would pay for it if you're not too familiar with fitting yet to fully understand certain thins. A good fitter will talk through what they're doing and that can help you down the road.
 
Thanks. I haven't had my bike fitted, I was going to try to follow this guide with my wife this weekend (she's got a goniometer from work): http://wheelworld.com/articles/how-to-fit-your-bicycle-pg190.htm

It's either that or take it into a shop to have it done, I'd rather pay for that than just forget about riding.

I am a Serotta Certified bicycle fitter and wheelworld's guide is garbage. I got my first industry job from them and they are mail order chop shop hacks. If you set your saddle height as show in figure A you will hurt yourself. Spend the money and get professionally fit.
 

-SG

Member
Man, the girlfriend and I got a puppy in the new year and my riding has taken a huge hit. I haven't been out on the road bike yet and only took the 29er around the block a few times for a light spin. How do you guys with kids/small attention demanding pets keep up?
 

frontieruk

Member
Man, the girlfriend and I got a puppy in the new year and my riding has taken a huge hit. I haven't been out on the road bike yet and only took the 29er around the block a few times for a light spin. How do you guys with kids/small attention demanding pets keep up?

Train the dog to run alongside your 29er you get to rise (only lightly) the dog gets tired out take it home go for a real ride
 

Teggy

Member
Man, the girlfriend and I got a puppy in the new year and my riding has taken a huge hit. I haven't been out on the road bike yet and only took the 29er around the block a few times for a light spin. How do you guys with kids/small attention demanding pets keep up?

No picture? For shame.
 
I am a Serotta Certified bicycle fitter and wheelworld's guide is garbage. I got my first industry job from them and they are mail order chop shop hacks. If you set your saddle height as show in figure A you will hurt yourself. Spend the money and get professionally fit.

Can I pick your brain on something? I cannot figure out why, but for some reason my left foot has a tendency to toe in and my heel goes all the way out on the up stroke. Basically when I'm hitting the 10 o'clock position my heel swings out, and my toe points in and down. It ends up putting some strain on my abductor and hip. Surprisingly my knee stays straight.

I can't seem to figure out if it's cleat or just poor pedaling mechanics when hammering on the mountain bike, because it doesn't really happen on my road bike.
 

kottila

Member
Put 50km on the roadie today had the front blow out at 40km :(

Lost my chain off the big ring and it spun itself three times around the crank. My hands were so completely black afterwards that I had to do a complete clean up to get off all the winters wet lube. gunk everywhere
 

Addnan

Member
I had a really nice ride around Richmond park yesterday, except for some fucking guy asking if he can try my bike and when I said no he starting going off on these fucking kids these days have no respect for elders and other bollocks. So that was a bit confusing.


I need new shoes. So expensive, yet nowhere to try them on. Feels bad =(
 

frontieruk

Member
Lost my chain off the big ring and it spun itself three times around the crank. My hands were so completely black afterwards that I had to do a complete clean up to get off all the winters wet lube. gunk everywhere

I think you win with how shitty a situation you ended up with, though I think the drama award goes to me, with the inner tube going bang so pound it sounded like a gun shot and it actually blowing a part of the tyre off the rim...
 

HStallion

Now what's the next step in your master plan?
Just did another 40 mile ride in 3 hours and 52 minutes. My best time yet and thankfully it was cool today and despite the rain the last few days the trail I took was basically totally dry except for a couple manageable puddles. Going to do this route once a week for the rest of May and see how much I can improve as well as building up my stamina to step it up in June.
 
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